Which one is right? The colour picker or the info panel?

Try this one out at home kids:
Set your colour picker to Greyscale and dial 25% K into your foreground colour swatch.
Now, in a new, RGB document, fill that document with your foreground colour.
Now open the Info palette, set one of your readouts to "Greyscale" and enjoy seeing it read 31% K.
Uh.
WTF?
My RGB readout reads 192 across all channels, which is correct: 192 / 256 = 75% (additive) = 25% (subtractive)
This probably has something to do with colour management, but could someone A) explain to me what is happening, and B) tell me how to set it so I can get mathematically predictable results?

D Fosse wrote:
I'm not trying to argue...well, I am - but if you could explain precisely what you're after I'm sure it's doable.
Dag, did you go through the exact sequence he put up in the first post?
The issue is that we seem to be able to set the absolute numbers for RGB in the COLOR panel (made visible through the Window - Color) menu via choosing Grayscale and a %K value - in this case 25% sets color (192, 192, 192). It sets these values no matter what profile the document is using.
When that color is used on any old document, the profile is involved with reading back the number in the %K portion of the info panel.
No profile is involved with setting the number (because this operation doesn't involve a document), a profile IS involved with reading the number from a document. That difference is at the root of the issue Tom is sensing, I think.
My comment about Photoshop being developed on a Mac... Note that with a profile carrying gamma 1.8, Photoshop DOES make the numbers match., probably owing to a hard-coded gamma correction in the logic of the info panel. It might be more reasonable for it to just use the gamma derived from the profile, or just do a conversion to linear space first, but then that would change the way Photoshop works, and Adobe appears to have a policy of "keep it very consistent with past releases, so everything still works".
-Noel

Similar Messages

I have awks documents that have a dark icon which says 'exec' in the info panel. I get 'I/O error' when I open. They were created in Awks 6 but in 96-98 so they have transversed many OSs. Tried the Apple recovery technique, no luck.

I have awks documents that have a dark icon which says 'exec' in the info panel. I get 'I/O error' when I try to open. They were created in Awks 6 but in 96-98 so they have transversed many OSs. Tried the Apple recovery technique no luck. Running 10.5.8. on MBPro Intel.

Adding to the "any stunt you can think of" list. If you're not concerned with formatting and the documents are primarily text, open them in TextEdit. After a page or two of indecipherable code, you'll see the textual meat of the file, followed by more code. The text portion itself is often fairly readable, even if the file is damaged.

3 Different Backups; Which one is right?

Hello everyone,
I have a question about backup systems. I looked around the forums and saw a couple that were almost the same question but weren't, so I am going to ask mine. I am not sure if my questions make a difference with the answers though.
I just bought a Lenovo G560. As you know, it came with OneKey which is the button on the key board. It also has Windows Backup (Windows 7). But, I also went out and bought a portable backup hard drive (Hitachi) that came with its own backup software.
So my question is which one do I use??? I will explain what I want to do, then my thoughts on each option, and I am hoping someone here could give me solid advice. I already had a system crash once and lost everything, so I don't want to start over again.
(What I would like to do)
I would like to have two different types of back up completed to my external hard drive:
1. Would be a system image of everything as it is on my laptop. In case of a major failure, I can simply start fresh from the last backup image and (for the most part) not skip a beat. This backup would probably be done once every two weeks or maybe once a month.
2. I would also like to have a traditional backup of everything in my personal folder which would basically be just my files i.e. pictures, music, documents, etc. This way in case I delete 1 or 2 files by accident I can go into my external hard drive and pull those files back over. This backup would probably be done 1 to 2 times a week.
(My Thoughts)
OneKey: I like the idea of the OneKey software because that function is built into the laptop with a dedicated button. But from what I saw so far, this software can't be set up to do both types of backup at the same time. But, I might be wrong on this...
Windows: A part of me thinks I should let Windows conduct its own backup because Windows should know what Windows need to run in case of a major failure, and this would be the easiest for me. From what I have read, Windows can do two different types of backup at one time, but it is vvvvveeeeerrrrryyyy slow, and a lot of times the second scheduled backup will attempt to start before the first one is finished which causes major problems.
Hitachi: The external hard drive came with its own backup software installed that it uses to manage backups. This one requires you to install yet another program onto the laptop (which is on top of the 2 already there OneKey & Windows). It seems simple enough to use, but I am not sure if it can do two different types of backup.
A part of me thinks if I were to use OneKey or Windows I could basically format the external hard drive and then I will have a completely empty drive for backups since I would get rid of the pre installed software.
Or, I could be completely wrong on all three of these, and need to use some other backup software to do what I want.
I need to tell you that I am thinking of playing with a kernel of Linux that would be installed in a separate area on my laptop. I would like for the backup software to be able to include this in its backups (just the image type) since I am not planning on moving any personal information/files over to that OS just yet. Once I find a version of Linux I like, I would probably switch to that for full time use. So I think that would be important in the selection process of backup software.
I know this is a big question, but I am hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. I am not very familiar with backup software. I had another external hard drive once before, but that one only did the My Documents folder, and there was a couple times I had to start fresh with Windows because I didn't have a system image. So I am hoping to not go through that again.
Thanks for all of your thoughts.

gigrosser, welcome to the forum,
If I understand your intentions correctly I think your first priority is to create a set of recovery discs as suggested by yigit, a good reason for this will become clear later.
As you are going to be playing with Linux you will need an imaging software which is capable of creating a base image and incremental images of the complete hard drive including the boot sectors, I personally don't see either One Key or Windows Backup being the optimal tools for achieving this.
As I don't know which software came supplied with your Hitachi drive, I'm can't rule it out as being a suitable tool for the job which I would approach as follows;
Once you have created recovery discs and installed your suitable imaging software you also need to be sure you create rescue media for the imaging software in order to be able to access your image backups should they be required.
Assuming you have your hard drive configured with Linux et al you should then create a base image with the imaging software to your external hard drive. After it's completed add a "test folder" to your desktop and then shut the system down.
Now's the time to test your image and rescue media by simply restoring the image you have just created; if the "test folder" isn't there it's worked, if it's still there something hasn't worked and needs a re-think. Worst case and absolutely nothing works is the time to use the recovery discs you created to set your system back to factory and start reconsidering the whole concept again That's why the recovery discs are important.
Assuming that everything ran successfully it's time to add a few files, 500MB should suffice, in order to run an incremental image backup and of course to recover to that incremental backup. If everything works you have the first part of your problem solved.
Now to the second part; there's a windows tool which seems to have got a bit forgotten over the years, have you considered using windows Briefcase? Just search Windows help to find out all about how it could help you.
However the second part may be superfluous; - "in case I delete 1 or 2 files by accident" - I don't know how much data you're going to be adding / changing / deleting on a daily basis, but running incremental image backups shouldn't normally take very long, you'll find out the answer to this when running your tests. A good imaging software will allow you to extract single files from any backup you have made which in effect negates the requirement for a second solution.
Hope I've explained my thoughts clearly enough, if not let me know.
Edit; to answer "which one is right?" is maybe none, maybe all - the right one is the one that works even if it's the fifth choice
Regards
Andy ______________________________________
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Different Temperatures - which one is right?

I have started trying Core Temp as a replacement to CoreCenter. The thing is Core Temp gives temperatures 2-3C below what CoreCenter shows, which I dont't mind too much. Anyway, when I run Stress CPU the temp deference increases, as shown here.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k276/seven_of_nine13/temps.jpg
Any ideas why this 7C difference (sometimes more) happens and which one is right? System temperature is showing right as I have other temp probes floating about. Spec below, except I now have a FX-55 (ClawHammer). Got it free :D

Quote from: qyx on 28-November-06, 15:10:10
I don't understand how core temps could drop 5 degrees c. while temp of surrounding area remains the same. Same loads, volts etc. as before I changed case fans (4x80 mm now and 2x120 before) and case (aluminium now, steel before).
That's what I'm wondering. I know my temps have been higher with the FX-55, but still doesn't explain how the core can be cooler. As for overall temps I'm planing on lapping the CPU and heatsink over the Christmas holidays (exams have to be done first ), as I think the heat spreader on the CPU is a little higher around the edges.

Which one goes in the front and which one goes in the back? (4.1)

Long long time ago, (well around 999) I purchased this set of speakers from Creative. I believe it was something like Cambridge something. It was the first introduction of Surround Sound Speakers and it was a 4.1. (2 front speakers, 2 rear speakers and subwofer).
When I moved to USA, I brought them with me (and I still use them), but I lost the box and the manuals. I hook it up with the X-fi and works beautiful.
My question is:
I remember reading that two speakers had some difference (something connected with the distance I think) with the other two. Something like 3 meters and 5 meters.
Is that connected with which one goes in the front, and which one goes in the back?
Right now; the speakers in the front are really strong, but the ones in the back, are very soft. Is that right? Or should I swap them?
Thanks
Max

There are dozens of 1TB drives that will 'fit' - just make sure that they're 2.5" drives, 9.5mm 'thick'.
I don't like Western Digital but there are plenty of other brands out there.
I would recommend shopping at Crucial or OWC for both your new drive and RAM.
Clinton

I am thinking of getting my first Macbook pro for uni and was just wondering which one would be the best? The macbook pro or macbook pro with retina display? or even wait for the new release in 2013 ?

I am thinking of getting my first Macbook pro for uni and was just wondering which one would be the best? The macbook pro or macbook pro with retina display? or even wait for the new release in 2013 ?

If your budget is unlimited, look at both the retina and non-retina and make a decision based on your preferences. If funds are tight, explore the options in the refurbished section. Unless you are dealing with courses that demand specific performance parameters, any one of these options will suffice.
Ciao.

In the Info panel, how do I display pixel values as values, not as percentages?

I'm trying to show, using the eye dropper tool, the actual values of pixels in an 8-bit grayscale image (Mode command confirms that's what's there). In the Info panel, the eye dropper tool displays percentages for every type of color information (K, CMYK), while the "8-bit" field remains blank.
I've looked at Properties and pretty much everything else that I can find with no luck.
Photoshop CS6, 64 bit, Win7-64
Thanks!
Ian J.

Ian Jaffray wrote:
Noel,
Thanks for your reply. I thought this had been fixed by recreating the Preferences file, but this morning I was back to percentages. I did have different settings in the Info Panel from the ones in your very helpful picture, and after I changed mine to match yours I now see 0-255 values in the R, G, B settings when using the eyedropper on this grayscale image.
Instead of RGB Color for the First Color Readout I had "Actual Color". This by itself causes percentages to be displayed. All options for the Second Color Readout all seem to produce percentages.
"Actual Color" is what I normally use for the first readout. In the case of a Grayscale document, it will display a K (black) value. For a RGB image, it will display R,G and B values. And so on.
When 8-bit is chosen for the value format, we expect a value of 0..255 to be displayed. As you know, that works fine for the RGB readout, but a Grayscale readout displays a percentage instead.
So if you set one of the readouts to RGB and 8-bit, you can get 0..255 values to be displayed for your Grayscale document.
When the document is Grayscale, the RGB values are a conversion from the document colour space to the RGB working space as defined in Edit > Color Settings. To get the true values of the pixels, the Grayscale document profile and RGB working space must be complementary (for lack of a better word). That's why, in my first reply, I said to use the following combinations:
Doc with sGray profile and RGB working space of sRGB.
Doc with Gray Gamma 2.2 profile and RGB working space of Adobe RGB.

Displaying both pixel and inch dimesnsion in the Info Panel

Anybody else constantly switching the Info Panel from displaying inches to pixels and vice versa?
How to avoid having to do this? I either want to see one or the other, somtimes being able to see both simultaneously would be nice. While dragging out Rectangular Marquees, doing Transforms, etc.

I actually installed the trial of Flash Builder but did not get far before it expired, so I can only share Silkrooster’s suspicion that it may be possible.
Maybe you should ask over at
http://forums.adobe.com/community/flash_builder

Misleading Vertex position info in the info panel

If anyone is at all interested, the vertex position information provided in the info panel is in a coordinate space relative to the current zoom of the currently active composition viewport, not the coordinate space of the composition.
So if your composition is 512x512 pix and you're at 200% zoom in the comp viewer you're going to see coordinates within this space of your vertex position in terms of a 1024x1024 space. Similarly, at 400% zoom you're now in a coordinate space of 2048x2048 for the vertices of your path objects, but NOT for the info panels reporting of your current mouse positioning.
You will therefore not have true pixel precision available to you for vertex movement unless you divide whatever coordinates you see by the rate of zoom, or work at 100% zoom.
Is this in the documentation anywhere?
Is this a feature, or a remnant of a finer nudge feature?
Anyway to turn on pixel snapping for a zoomed in view when moving vertices of a path, shape or mask?

It works as it always has/ is designed. Same answer as your otehr post: If you need precision, use Illustrator.
Mylenium

Having the info panel open with curves open

Hi,
Just switched from CS6 to PS CC. I usually set my white and black points using curves. Set the points then go to curves and adjust the points with the RGB channels. In PS CC, I cannot seem to have the curves and info panel open at the same time. Anyone know how to accomplish this?
Thank you,
Jim

Hi, c.pfaffenbichler, Here is a screenshot of the curves properties panel open. I would like to see the info panel open at the same time so I can drag the point on the curve to specific values of R,G and B. If I click on the info tab in this curves panel the info comes up but I do not see the curves properties anymore. I want to be able to see both open at the same time.
Thank you,
Jim

Would Like to get an iPod but not sure which one would be the best for me..

i have done some research on the iPods, the easiest to use, which ones are best for fitness workouts, etc. I had an iPod Classic sometime ago but I ruined it because I tried to install the program it came with but it was already installed and the second install I did ruin it. At least this is what the genius bar guy said.
Anybody who knows iPods fairly well. I am new to my MacBook Pro and I would like to be able to synch the music in iTunes with the iPod for music for various activities. I also have trouble with the ear phones that come with the iPods, so I was looking at a website that had earphones ranging from $300 to $500 approx for people who have various needs in addition to using them at studios while mixing new music. I just want a pair that will stay in my odd shaped ears, have great quality, and work well with the iPods.
Any recommendations on iPod for exercise. I am not big on videos but having some good music gets me through a hard workout. One problem I have is that the genus guys could not fix the multiple setting, software, preference settings, etc. that had become corrupted in my old Mac and because several genius guys could not fix the numerous problems they gave me a new MacBook Pro. However, they recommended that since my problems were all setting, software issues and problems I have add with adding music in iTunes, that none of my pictures, music or setting be transferred to the new MBP but to start over. They did not even save any of my iTunes and pictures which I thought was odd but what could I say since they were giving me a new MBP. If anybody has a legal way of transferring from my friend;s iTunes the music he has that I can use for the yoga and mind-body classes I teach, which I am getting nervous on because I start the classes next week. I do not have the money to buy the yoga and other fitness music in hours like I use to have. My friend will let me transfer some of his music that he had from his own cds and some but few from iTunes, but that I could get them on myTunes if I could find out how to do that.
I researched that and since my friend did not care about atwork, artists of the songs on one cd, for example, the genre, tracks, artists, etc. he does have some but I would want to do the research and get the artwork and the titles of the various songs, the tracks, and all the info one gets when they transfer a new cd to iTunes. I had this problem with some of my old music but with google images, and finding the cd online I was able to get all the CDs accurate, even the double CDs that iTunes would have as one cd, but I figured out how to get them to one cd.
The ways ITunes Help advices on moving songs from one iTunes to another computer with iTunes, they recommend an iPod, transferring them to a DVD and burn the DVd on to my new MacBook Pro, with several other option that were beyond my ability to understand. If anybody has suggestions how to get my friend;s songs to my iTunes so I can have enough New Age and Yoga music for the classes that start next week, I would really appreciate it.
I also want to start backing up using time Machine and LaCie Rugged hard disk FW, USB, 400 0r 800 FW, 7200 speed, usb, etc. I am not up-to-date on the speed of the LaCie and if the 7200 speed would be a waste of money. Any recommendations for getting this device, not hooking it up to a wireless devise but to the Time Machine. If it does not come formatted for the new MacBook Pro and is it a big deal formatting the hard drive so I would be able to start using it right out of the box. Any suggestions n the iPod, and the LaCie rugged external hard drive would be a hugh help. I cannot afford a Time Capsule right now so I though the LaCie would be the next best thing
Thanks!!

i have done some research on the iPods, the easiest to use, which ones are best for fitness workouts, etc. I had an iPod Classic sometime ago but I ruined it because I tried to install the program it came with but it was already installed and the second install I did ruin it. At least this is what the genius bar guy said.
Anybody who knows iPods fairly well. I am new to my MacBook Pro and I would like to be able to synch the music in iTunes with the iPod for music for various activities. I also have trouble with the ear phones that come with the iPods, so I was looking at a website that had earphones ranging from $300 to $500 approx for people who have various needs in addition to using them at studios while mixing new music. I just want a pair that will stay in my odd shaped ears, have great quality, and work well with the iPods.
Any recommendations on iPod for exercise. I am not big on videos but having some good music gets me through a hard workout. One problem I have is that the genus guys could not fix the multiple setting, software, preference settings, etc. that had become corrupted in my old Mac and because several genius guys could not fix the numerous problems they gave me a new MacBook Pro. However, they recommended that since my problems were all setting, software issues and problems I have add with adding music in iTunes, that none of my pictures, music or setting be transferred to the new MBP but to start over. They did not even save any of my iTunes and pictures which I thought was odd but what could I say since they were giving me a new MBP. If anybody has a legal way of transferring from my friend;s iTunes the music he has that I can use for the yoga and mind-body classes I teach, which I am getting nervous on because I start the classes next week. I do not have the money to buy the yoga and other fitness music in hours like I use to have. My friend will let me transfer some of his music that he had from his own cds and some but few from iTunes, but that I could get them on myTunes if I could find out how to do that.
I researched that and since my friend did not care about atwork, artists of the songs on one cd, for example, the genre, tracks, artists, etc. he does have some but I would want to do the research and get the artwork and the titles of the various songs, the tracks, and all the info one gets when they transfer a new cd to iTunes. I had this problem with some of my old music but with google images, and finding the cd online I was able to get all the CDs accurate, even the double CDs that iTunes would have as one cd, but I figured out how to get them to one cd.
The ways ITunes Help advices on moving songs from one iTunes to another computer with iTunes, they recommend an iPod, transferring them to a DVD and burn the DVd on to my new MacBook Pro, with several other option that were beyond my ability to understand. If anybody has suggestions how to get my friend;s songs to my iTunes so I can have enough New Age and Yoga music for the classes that start next week, I would really appreciate it.
I also want to start backing up using time Machine and LaCie Rugged hard disk FW, USB, 400 0r 800 FW, 7200 speed, usb, etc. I am not up-to-date on the speed of the LaCie and if the 7200 speed would be a waste of money. Any recommendations for getting this device, not hooking it up to a wireless devise but to the Time Machine. If it does not come formatted for the new MacBook Pro and is it a big deal formatting the hard drive so I would be able to start using it right out of the box. Any suggestions n the iPod, and the LaCie rugged external hard drive would be a hugh help. I cannot afford a Time Capsule right now so I though the LaCie would be the next best thing
Thanks!!

HT204150 I now have multiple icloud accounts. How do you determine which one is holding the data?

I recently set up a new Windows 7 PC. I backed my phone to the icloud. When I plugged my phone into itunes on the PC it wiped my contacts and music out. Now I'm finding I have multiple iCloud accounts. I don't know which one to use or how to get my data restored to the phone. Very frustrating! Can anyone help me? --ptowngal

Go to icloud.com, sign into each of your iCloud accounts and see which one(s) contain your data.

Looking for an app for a blue tooth, type I want to use on my Iphone is a "jawbone" Question is out of the many available in the store which one would be the best and most reliable?

Looking for an app for blue tooth on my Iphone. Out of the many in the app store which one(s) would be the best & most reliable? Currently trying to set up for an older Jaw Bone?

You are asking several different questions. If you need to store your photos, music, and movies on an external volume, you certainly can. Any externally connected hard disk drive will work, connected either directly to your Mac or to your Time Capsule as a shared volume.
You should not rely upon using that as a backup device though. Although you certainly may use it for both purposes, it is a better idea to have dedicated backup devices for a variety of reasons not limited to redundancy. You would not want to simultaneously lose all your pictures as well as your backup. If they are all on the same device, that could happen. Furthermore, a backup cannot back up the volume on which it is running.
As for adding an Extreme or Express, using its LAN port for your iMac, and then enable Internet sharing so you can effectively use the iMac as a "hotspot", you can do that too, but I am unclear on what benefit you believe this arrangement would convey for you.
An Extreme's Guest network is separate from its Main network; that is the reason for having it.

WRT110 vs. WRT54G2 - which one is right for me?

WRT110 is the speedbooster of the old WRT54GS, whereas WRT54G2 is the new WRT54G (no speedbooster). Our current home network exists just to enable all computers to have internet access, we do not do any file sharing between computers. Considering that, is there any reason to go with the speedbooster over the non-speedbooster version? Which one is more stable/reliable of the two (less dropped connections, random slowdowns, etc)?

castor wrote:
Try this link to enable file sharing on the network ...
Hey, thanks for the help but that is not our issue. We just don't share files from computer to computer, we just use the router to give all computers internet access.

Which files actually hold the info & settings for a single Mail Account?

One of my mail accounts must have gotten corrupted yesterday. Since then I can no longer retrieve mail for this account. This account can still send mail normally. All the other mail accounts on this machine function properly and I can retrieve emails from this account on another Mac.
I could probably solve the problem by deleting the account and recreating it. However when I had this problem once before and deleted/recreated the account it was a long process to try to import all the old emails (which I want to keep) from my Time Machine backup. At that time I still lost emails because the import kept hanging up at the same point in the process, so I would like to avoid having to go through that again.
I'm hoping that if I could identify the files that hold all the account specific info I could restore just those files with Time Machine. I'm guessing that if I were to quit Mail, restore those files and then relaunch Mail, everything should be back to the way it was before the files were corrupted.
Does anyone know if my theory is valid? And, if so, do you know which files I need to replace and where to find them?
-- Thanks, in advance, for your help!

Thanks for the response!
Well, I looked in the location you mentioned (Users/yourname/Library/Mail/nameof_yourpop account) before posting my question, but if you look in that POP folder the only things there are the .mbox files for that account: Deleted Messages.mbox, Drafts.mbox, INBOX.mbox, Junk.mbox & Sent Messages.mbox. Inside each of those are the actual emails for those folders, which would restore all the emails (which I haven't lost), but there doesn't seem to be any files that carry the info/settings for the account.
I was hoping to find the settings files which must be located somewhere else. Do you have any other suggestions?

Which one is right? The colour picker or the info panel?

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