Which option is best? CC or Installment Loan

Looking to do a bathroom remodel...which one would have a bigger impact on my credit score, utilization % higher or an installment loan payment? What to do, what to do. Cas...

So CMSS-3D on a hardware card like the X-Fi XtremeMusic then Dolby Mixamp like on: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
However using the Dolby Mixamp and setting the Speakers to 7.1 you can use CMSS Stereo Surround Upmix which may not be needed since the mixamp can do this too....
Would CMSS-3D be best for all games or would Dolby Headphone work better for others?
Also I noticed Windows 8 has 32 bit sampling rates? I usually set my X-Fi on 24bit 96000hz unless a game complains. I think last time I tried 24bit 192000hz the CMSS effect seemed to not work....
What about the SPDIF samping rate? I assume 16bit 48000hz?

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Which installation option is best?

I was wondering what the best installation option is for me. I've read about "Archive and Install," "Upgrade," and lastly completely whipping the HDD and then installing.
I have a MacBook Pro(the original - 1st Gen), and I currently have 33.94G used and 40.27G free. The majority of my harddrive is taken up by music and movies(which I would like to not lose, but they can be obtained again after some work). I don't think I have anything super important to save, since I have my English papers on a flash drive.
I'm not sure what option is best for me, or which option would be better for my computer since I'd like it to run smoothly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

see and existing thread: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1196130&tstart=0

HT1364 I just bought a new PC and now have ample space on my C drive to house my music Library which is currenlty installed on a external drive. What is the best way to install and move the itunes library to my C Drive?

I just bought a new PC and now have ample space on my C drive to house my music Library which is currenlty installed on a external drive. What is the best way to install and move the itunes library to my C Drive?

If the entire library is on the external drive then simply copy the iTunes folder into <User's Music> on the new computer, then install iTunes. If you've already installed iTunes you will want to remove the empty iTunes folder in <User's Music> first.
If it turns out you only have the media folder on the external drive then take a look at this post...
tt2

Which one is best option RAC 10g or oracle 11g RAC for certifiction point ?

hi ,
which one is best option RAC 10g or oracle 11g RAC for certifiction point of view?
can any one detail difference between above 2 options?
Regards,
A.Anwar

A. Anwar wrote:
hi ,
which one is best option RAC 10g or oracle 11g RAC for certifiction point of view?
can any one detail difference between above 2 options?The main difference is: Oracle Lifetime Support
Premier Support Ends
Oracle 10g R2 - Jul 2010
Oracle 11g R2 - Jan 2015
Extended Support Ends
Oracle 10g R2 - Jul 2013
Oracle 11g R2 - Jan 2018
http://www.oracle.com/us/support/library/lifetime-support-technology-069183.pdf
Oracle 10g R2 is getting unsupported.

I have an Acrobat 8 which is all I need. Installed on my new computer which is using Windows 8. Each time I open Acrobat I get a window that say unable to registrator. It gives me three options try again, redo, never register.

I have an Acrobat 8 which is all I need. Installed on my new computer which is using Windows 8. Each time I open Acrobat I get a window that say unable to registrator. It gives me three options try again, redo, never register. No matter which option I choose I cannot stop the window from opening each time I open the computer.
Any suggestions?

Probably far too old to register. Sounds like a bug, stopping the "never" selection from working. You may be stuck with it.

Which is the best option to enter the data from BPEL to Oracle Apps.?

Hi all,
i have a little confusion. I want to enter sales order data into Oracle Apps
from BPEL.But there are two ways 1) API 2) Sales Import Interface ( concurrent program)
So Which option is better. can anyone plz explain.?
/mishit.

Ther is a nice chapter in the BPEL cookbook on integrating Apps en PSoft. Maybe this helps you to understand in integration with BPEL.
http://www.oracle.com/technology/pub/articles/bpel_cookbook/pravin.html

Which is the best antivirus and spyware for Mac?

Good morning,
Because of schoolwork and extracurricular activities, I am constantly sending and receiving e-mails and messages to and from PCs and other Apple devices, like IPads. Two years ago I purchased a 120,12GB MacBook Air and, until a few months ago, it went perfectly well.
I am not sure what happened, but lately, every time I go online, whatever I click -whether it is a random letter in a website, or a blank space in a page, anything- an advert appears or a new -unwanted- tab opens with publicity and such, the kind of additional tabs that open when you are watching movies online in a random website, but this time, it is happening with every website (even the Apple site) and almost constantly. I suspect it is something I downloaded or maybe something I received from an infected PC that I got a virus or problem from.
I tried using the MacKeeper software, but it is not working for me (?). Also I tried blocking pop-ups (I use Google Chrome), Java Script, automatic downloads, complements and everything I could when going online, but it has not gotten better over the last 9 months. My parents also recommended me a very good technician, who I personally know and has solved many of my previous problems, but he could not help me, in this situation.
For that reason, I have been considering either purchasing a good antivirus for my Mac or a new Mac and an antivirus for it, to prevent future problems like this one.
Either way, the question is the same,
Which is the best antivirus and spyware software for Mac?
Thank you so much for your attention.

Please get rid of MacKeeper, as it and most other such junk software will do more harm than good.
Please review the options below to determine which method is best to remove the Adware installed on your computer.
The Easy, safe, effective method:
http://www.adwaremedic.com/index.php
If you are comfortable doing manual file removals use the somewhat more difficult method:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203987
Also read the articles below to be more prepared for the next time there is an issue on your computer.
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-7471
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-8071
http://www.thesafemac.com/tech-support-scam-pop-ups/

Advice: CC or Installment Loan

I need some sound advice. I am trying to figure out the best approach to my only financial/Fico issue. I have an AMEX card with a $11,000 CL at 12.5%. . I have thought about asking for a CLI. I owe a balance of $8,000 on it. My intention is to have it paid off or nearly paid off by the end of the year through monthly payments. I don't have any pressing concern right now, but I do intend to buy a house next year about this time. Questions: 1) Should I apply for a card that I could expect to get a high CL with a BT of 0.00%? or 2) Apply for an Installment loan through Lending Club? I have a guaranteed 5.99% offer with them for up to $35,000. 3) Or should I just continue paying it down as I have done, and not do either above option? My FICO 8 scores are: EX: 771, TU: 761, and EQ: 743The FICO simulator shows if the balance (my outstanding revolving debt) on the AMEX card is paid off my scores would go to 809 on EX, 801 on TU and 793 on EQ.The only thing I have is a car note for a new Jeep I bought lat November. Thanks for ALL your help!

Gridium wrote:
The way I personally would play that scenario would be to pay down the Amex. The reason is a new account could hit your average age of account, possibly significantly depending on how many accounts in total are on your CR. I don't know exactly what that would translate into in terms of Fico hit and mortgage rate, but I would be hesitant to risk the possibility of a better(even if only slightly better) mortgage rate in a situation where I'm capable of just paying down a balance in a few months. Getting the best possible mortgage rate is going to be a much bigger money saver over the long run, than getting a 0% APR on a relatively small short term debt that it sounds like you're set to pay off in 4 or 5 months anyway. I would also, if I hadn't already in that scenario, talk to my credit union's lending department(or whoever I was hoping to finance my house through) about my situation and get some feedback from them, ideally after providing them with a copy of my full credit report(to avoid them doing a hard pull).I would concur. Just pay it down normally. At best you save a few hundred bucks by getting a loan or 0% transfer card, but you risk lowering your scores - possibly below a rate threshold.

Which is the best iOS for iPhone 3G? I am currently on 3.1.3 !

Which is the best iOS for iPhone 3G?
Should i update it to the latest 4.2.1 or let it be on my current firmware 3.1.3?
I have heard that 3G is best on 3.1.3?
Comment?

If I may, I agree that version 3.1.3 is the best for the iPhone 3G, however, I am currently travelling in Europe and I have a SIM card from a local mobile company. I discovered the hard way that there is an option missing: Settings > General > Network > Cellular Data (on/off). This option is not present in iOS 3.1.3. So basically, you disable 3G but it is impossible to block EDGE, and your phone will automatically revert to it if 3G is not available, and you will occur cellular data fees anyway.
I am sure of what I am saying because with the local service I use, I have unlimited data for $4 per day, but it is debited as soon as I consume one byte of data, then it is free until midnight the same day. Event if I have set Enable 3G = off, Data Roaming = off, for two days in a row, I was still charged the $4 a day because the Cellular Data was not off!
I compared with my wife's iPhone 3GS with iOS 5.1, there is the three options, Enable 3G (on/off), Data Roaming (on/off), Cellular Data (on/off). The option to turn it off simply doesn't exists on iOS 3.1.3!
With some research, I found that it is possible to block it anyway if you change your APN (Access Point Name) to an invalid setting. The easiest way to do this is to connect to the Internet using WiFi, then access this web site with Safari: http://unlockit.co.nz/ (from your iPhone).
This online tool allows you to change your APN, it is very useful when you travel abroad and you use local SIMs. On the first screen press Continue, on the second screen press Custom APN to create an APN for a local mobile company, or press Disable Data (FakeAPN) to disable 3G and Edge for good. When creating a Custom APN, you will be asked to choose a Country and a Provider, then press Create Profile. Then, either way, press Install and "Install Now" or "Replace", then press Done. This will add two things to your phone: first, an app-like icon for quick access to the website http://unlockit.co.nz/, second, a new menu in Settings > General, labelled "Profile", that contains your new APN. Note that it is possible to add several profile information, and some may conflict with each other. Remove those you don't need. Don't remove them if you are not sure!
I hope this works for you!

What is the easiest and best way to install or open flash drive in Sarfari on my Macbook Pro...2010 model using mountain lion

what is the easiest and best way to install or open flash drive in Sarfari on my 2010 macbook pro using mountain lion?

There is no really good way to do what you want. Any tracks you purchase via your own iTunes Store account are for your personal use, tied to your iTunes Store account, and can't be given to anyone else. If you don't want to gift the tracks to her and can't access her iTunes Store account, the only option other than creating her a completely new iTunes Store account (which will require a new email address for her) is to buy the CDs those tracks are on.
Regards.

Which processor is best for Oracle 10G database : Intel or AMD

Hi,
I am buying a new laptop for 34000 rs (700$) . I am configuring it for my office use. i am oracle apps developer.
Can anyone suggest shud i go for Caompaq or Acer?
Which processor will best handle Oracle 10G database? Inter Core Duo or AMD Turion?
Thanks,

gayatri chodankar wrote:
Hi,
I am not sure about "hosting a serveice means". i will be installing Oracle discoverer administrator and optionally pl/sql developer.
I remember that we had installed oracle10g on my friends AMD desktop....and that had killed the performance like crazy.It must have something to do with the configuration of instance. I have at least two desktops running AMD and it works perfectly fine.
>
The laptop i m buying is *250 GB HDD, 2 GB RAM and windows vista*.As Nicolas has rightly pointed out in his post, which version of Vista is this? Remember that Vista Home edition is not supported by Oracle. You might get the things to run but you cannot guarantee the stability.
The only thing i m confused bout is whther i shud go for AMD or Inter core processor.
In this case, this would be a matter of personal choice. Both processors are at par with each other (now I am not going into the details of architecture and other things).

I am currently running my mac booc pro with the osx 10.5.8 and i want to update it. Which is the best way?

I am currently running my mac booc pro with the osx 10.5.8 and i want to update it. Which is the best way?

Snow Leopard Purchase
Computer Compatibility - Lion
Mountain Lion/Mavericks
Check that your computer is compatible with Mountain Lion/Mavericks.
To check the model number hold down the option/alt key, go to the Apple menu and select System Information.
MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer) model number 3,1 or higher
Your Mac needs:
OS X v10.6.8 or OS X Lion already installed
2 GB or more of memory (More is better - 4 GB minimum seems to be the consensus)
8 GB or more of available space

Which OS, Version, Best Setup on like-new 2008 MBP for non-HD archival DV?

MacBook Pro 15"
(Early 2008)
2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo
4GB RAM
720GB 7200rpm Hard Drive (original 360GB 5400rpm drive also available)
OS 10.6.8
(6GB RAM possible but additional $100+ for 4GB module needed now for software upgrades)
    I first and last used Final Cut Pro 2-3 in film school on a Titanium PowerBook (500MHz!) during the OS9/X transition. Next, was an Aluminum PowerBook (1.67Ghz) but because of life changes, I did little editing other than occasionally in iMovie. Then as an early adopter of iPhone/Pad, I rarely used my AlPB other than for back up, writing, and occasional simple editing.
    Now I'm finally entering the early MacIntel age with a pristine "early 2008" MacBook Pro bought for $250 from an elderly original-owner couple who used it only at home for email and iPhoto. Though at the end of its supported life, it's practically new with a known history of light graphics usage (no video or gaming rendering ever) delivered in the original box with original battery (only 46 cycles!), discs, manual, like-new charger, and no sign of wear. The original internal wrapper was even saved and put back on the device! Furthermore, because the wife was a photo enthusiast, the Apple Store swapped out her internal hard drive for a Western Digital 720GB 7200rpm drive and the husband just gave me the original 360GB drive!
    I want to do several things with this "new" device. I've done a lot of research but the world has changed since FCP 3 and the G4 processor and I'm overwhelmed with all the possibilities. I need guidance and have always appreciated the wisdom and generosity of the gurus here. I thank you all in advance!
iCloud integration: I'd like it since I'm an iPhone/Pad user. I could upgrade to Mountain Lion but Mavericks, under the best of conditions, is doable on my device and may give me improved CPU and battery performance. I realize this is best left for the OSX forums. HOWEVER...
Final Cut Pro: I want to also return to editing in FCP an unfinished documentary using primarily archival film and video converted to non-HD DV. This may greatly impact how I set up my drives and the decision as to which OS is best. So, this should probably be my initial decision.
Hard Drive: First and foremost, I should probably swap the drives and place the 7200rpm drive into an enclosure (Firewire or is that stone-age?) for FCP media, correct?
OS: With Mavericks, I must use FCPX which is beyond my current non-HD needs and will most likely strain my system resources. However, the new simplified interface is appealing and I've read some users are running it on "early 2008" MBPs. If an earlier OS is better suited, then which one? And also...
FCP Version: Which is most stable given my model? And which is best for non-HD needs? What about FCExpress? I want to explore more possibilities than what's available in iMovie and would appreciate the simpler interface found in FCE and FCPX, especially since I haven't used any Final Cut since FCP 3 but will gladly embrace what's best. I want to relearn the program and hope to continue using it for other projects.
Partitioned drive: Finally, what about partitioning my drive, one for daily life running Mavericks or other OS, the other solely dedicated to an optimized OS/FCP for non-HD editing? Even at 360 GB it should be doable if I keep it lean and the bulk of storage externally (I ran FCP 3 adequately on a partitioned 40GB drive back in the day). How much space should I dedicate to an FCP partition?
    Finances are tight and I'll need to upgrade Office, other apps (I know there's Rosetta in Snow Leopard but must weigh that with iCloud integration; decsions, decisions!) and probably locate an older copy of FCP on EBay or elsewhere which could be expensive. I must wait a bit before swapping in a 4GB RAM module and possibly upgrading to an SSD. Meanwhile, I'd like to experience this like-new MacBook Pro now, both as it was during its heyday and with what's still possible today. It seems doable and I appreciate any and all suggestions.
Thank you all and have a great day!
Evalyn
PS: I realize my FCP3 files are probably useless and plan to reimport everything into a new project. And sorry for the lack of paragraph spacing. Can't get it formatted right on the iPad!

CyberFinch wrote:
FCP Version: Which is most stable given my model? And which is best for non-HD needs? What about FCExpress? I want to explore more possibilities than what's available in iMovie and would appreciate the simpler interface found in FCE and FCPX, especially since I haven't used any Final Cut since FCP 3 but will gladly embrace what's best. I want to relearn the program and hope to continue using it for other projects.
Just to note that there is much more commonality between FCP3 and FCP7 and/or FCE than with the early version and FCP X. IMO, learning FCP X is worth the effort, but it will require some effort since it is so different than traditional NLE's. You could "get by" with FCE for many types of projects and you should be able to find a copy on eBay or Amazon for a few hundred dollars. However, you will not be able to open a FCP project of any version with it. Also, I don;t think I would agree that its UI is simple; it's essentially the same as FCP.
As for partitioning, some people advise against editing from drives that have been partitioned. I use a partition on one machine and I've not had any problems, so I think it is an option.
As you can see from the replies you've received so far, you have reasonable choices. Good luck.
Russ

I have a external Hard drive of 1TB. I want to transfer HD movies to it from my MAC but it can only take 4 gb at a time, now i have to format it which is the best format in this situation NTFS or exFAT, as i use windows part ion as well??

I have a external Hard drive of 1TB. I want to transfer HD movies to it from my MAC but it can only take 4 gb at a time, now i have to format it which is the best format in this situation NTFS or exFAT, as i use windows part ion as well?? plzz help
Merry Christmas

Repartition and format the drive for a Mac:
Drive Preparation
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Security button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.

I have a 15' Macbook Pro, mid 2010 running Mavericks. I want to upgrade the hardware by increasing the RAM to 8GB and replacing the HD for a SDD one. What would be the best way to install mavericks on the new HD? I have the original OS X CD.

I have a 15' Macbook Pro, mid 2010 running Mavericks. I want to upgrade the hardware by increasing the RAM to 8GB and replacing the HD for a SDD one. What would be the best way to install mavericks on the new HD? I have the original OS X CD.
From what I read, I have 2 choices: 1. to install OSX and then upgrade to Mavericks, but I'm not sure if this would be possible (to upgrade directly from OSX to Mavericks); and 2. to use a software called Super Duper.
I wouldn't like to have to use a third party software to do this, so the question is: is there a better way to install directly the Mavericks not having to use a third party software?

Install the new drive in the computer.
Install the old drive in an external USB or Firewire enclosure.
Boot the computer from the Recovery HD on the external drive.
Use Disk Utility to partition and format the new internal drive.
Clone your external drive to the internal drive.
How to replace or upgrade a drive in a laptop
Step One: Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger, Leopard or Snow Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Step Two: Remove the old drive and install the new drive. Place the old drive in an external USB enclosure. You can buy one at OWC who is also a good vendor for drives.
Step Three: Boot from the Recovery HD on the external drive. Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager appears. Select the icon for the Recovery HD then click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Step Four: New Hard Drive Preparation
1. Open Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
2. After DU loads select your new hard drive (this is the entry with the
      mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of
      the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive
      is failing or has failed and will need replacing. Otherwise, click on the
      Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from
      the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended
      (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to
      GUID then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and
      wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the
      drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main
      window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the
      Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to
      return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several
      hours depending upon the drive size.
Step Five: Clone the old drive to the new drive
1. Using Disk Utility still opened.
2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
4. Check the box labeled Erase destination.
5. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it to the
      Destination entry field.
6. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to the
      Source entry field.
7. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means the new internal drive. Source means the old external drive.
Step Six: Open the Startup Disk preferences and select the new internal volume. Click on the Restart button. You should boot from the new drive. Eject the external drive and disconnect it from the computer.

Which option is best? CC or Installment Loan

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