Which USB Firewall cable do I Buy.......

to transfer data from my old iMac to my new 20" iMac?
the instructions are no help at all - showing merely a USB cable with the same connectors on each end. Yet i cannot find such a cable at any of the cable stores.
Can anyone tell me the FULL NAME of the cable I should order?
thanks

Purchase a FireWire cable with 6 pins at each end. If the old iMac doesn't have any FireWire ports, use any Ethernet cable instead.
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Which cat6 ethernet cable should I buy?

My current project is re-networking our house. Currently I have 2 AE running our wireless network, bridged over wifi. I would like to run ethernet to the second AE so that the bridge is over ethernet not wifi. Hopefully this will allow a stronger signal in our house and push the network outside to our backyard.
I have read that some cables are rated better to prevent fire hazards. Is this something I should be worried about or can I buy standard cable?

Cables that are rated for fire are not because the signals running through the cable will cause the cables to catch on fire but it is where the cable is physically routed to prevent that cable from being burnt. These are typically used in plenum spaces in building.
As far as the cable category, you want at least CAT-5e cable. This cable is capable of 1 Gbps bandwidth. CAT-6 would only be recommended if your were running 10 Gbps+ neworks. We're not quite there yet at the consumer level. However, if you can get CAT-6 cable for at the same or nearly the same price as CAT-5e there shouldn't be any reason not to.
One important note. Gigabit requires that all four of the twisted pairs of wires in the Ethernet cable are used. If you plan on running land-line phone service (sort of becoming a dinosaur technology today), you want to run an additional Ethernet or dedicated phone cable instead of trying to use a single Ethernet cable run for both services. It was typical in the 90's when a home was offered with Ethernet pre-wired they used the cable runs for both. This limited the Ethernet to 100 Mbps.

Which cable should I buy in order to plug my Iphone 3GS to a projector?

Which cable should I buy in order to plug my Iphone 3GS to a projector?

This is the apple supported vga/projector cord. Not sure about off brand or 3rd party cords tho... Hope this helps. Good Luck!
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Which usb cable version do i use on my imac

How can i find out which USB cable version to purchase for my imac, as my printer needs to be installed

Impossible to answer if you don't let us know what Mac you have and what printer you have. However the chances are ANY standard USB 2.0 cable should work fine. One like:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Hi-Speed-USB-2-0-Cable/dp/B001MSU1HG/ref=sr_1_ 1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382801824&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+printer+cable

IPod Touch 4g USB Charging Cable(s!) Not Working. Went through 5 in a year.

I've had my 8 gb iPod Touch 4g since November 12th, 2010. I bought it from Target (so its not covered under warranty anymore) love it and use it for many hours every day, but there is a problem with the USB charging cables.
When I got my iPod, it came with the standard Apple charging cable. That cable worked for a few months (maybe... 3?) and all of a sudden stopped working. When I used my friends cord, it worked perfectly fine. She had the same exact model and cord as I did. I ended up just buying a replacement cord, thinking that this was just a fluke or whatever. No such deal. I purchased a third party cord from amazon, and it worked for a few months again. (Let me note that I also got a car and wall charger with it, those work perfectly fine to this day.) Once again, all of a sudden it broke. And again, I tried a friend's cord and it worked fine.
I ended up buying a third and fourth cords, which was also third party, and after that broke, I was fed up and went to the Genius Bar for an appointment. I explained my problem, and they made an appointment with me. Eventually, they just said to buy another cord, this time Apple brand. I did, and it has been working fine up until tonight, when it just stopped charging.
When I say that the cords broke, I mean that all of a sudden they would stop charging my iPod, no matter where I plugged it in. (computer, wall, car, etc.) It would/will only charge if I bent it a very certain way, and then I would need to hold it there, which I obviously can't do for hours. (;
I would take this apple cord back now, since I believe there is a warranty (although, I need to double check that when I can get to the papers.) if it weren't for the fact that, from use, the coating/white plastic of the actual cord has split and you can see a few of the wires. I will have to double-check if this is covered, though because of the outside appearance, I doubt that they would take it back. This has not happened with any of the other cords, however.
What should I do? Would restoring help this problem? I have been contemplating the idea for a while, but having to re-download/etc all of my apps, music, etc., is not the most appealing idea to me.. I have reset a few things a while back, though I cannot remember what they are, sadly.
Currently, my iPod is running iOS 5, as I just updated it about a month or so ago. Before that, it was running what the iPod touch 4g originally came with... I believe it was 4.2.1?
I really love my iPod, but am fed up with having to buy cords every few months, as I have gone through four or five in just a year.

I think stevejobsfan has misunderstood your problem.
You specifically state that in one case you can see the inner cord and wires of the lead. So, either - you are mis-handling the cord or a pet is chewing it. So, if you don't have a pet - it's you.
When you remove the cord from the iPod (or from the other end of it) you should handle by the plug, not the cord itself. If you pull the cord you are straining the connection between the cord and the plug and that will eventually cause that connection to break.
If this had happened to just one cord, maybe it's the cord. If it happened to several of the same make from the same source, perhaps it may have been a faulty batch. But for it to happen five times, with cords from different sources and different manufacturers - everything points to the cord being handled too roughly.
Buy another cord - but in future, remove it by gripping the plug and not by pulling on the cord. This applies to any cord or lead, including mains powered devices. If you have any other cords for any other product, I suggest you check them for damage because damaged cords can be a fire risk and create a risk of electric shock. Mains voltage can kill.
Another thought; if you wrap cords - including headphone leads - around anything (such as the charger itself), wrap it loosely. A tight wrap also strains the cord to plug connection.
Message was edited by: the fiend

Can USB extension cable from nano burn out tower's USB port?

I recently plugged my 1GB nano into my Mac flatscreen's USB port and got a message that this port was too slow. I used it anyway but it did take a looong time to charge the nano. Normally I use the two ports in the screen to park a couple of dongles and since that port is slow for iPod purposes , I decided to buy an unpowered USB hub, 1 to 4 variety to run from the tower.
My G4 is in a closet with a not-so-accessible port on the back so I have a 6 foot extender cable coming from the tower which connects to the hub and from there I plug in my camera and keyboard - but so far not the nano. The guy at the store where I got the hub told me that an iPod nano recieving power from this settup might burn out the USB port in the back of my G4. So I haven't tested that! Anyone know if this is true or if it's just uniformed blather from a drugstore computer sales tech?

The "too slow" message you received has nothing to do with how long it takes to charge the Nano, it is telling you it will take longer to sync the Nano. If the port on the screen charged your Nano it didn't take any longer than any other port will.
A USB extension cable will not burn out the USB port on your computer.

One APC UPS power supply to two Mac Mini via one USB control cable

Is it possible to use one APC UPS to control two Mac Mini to shut down when on UPS? The APC unit only has one USB control cable.

I wouldn't buy a PSU today for a high-performance system for any reason unless all of the voltage rails were separately supplied. AFAIK, only the Antec TruePower series and the PC Power & Cooling psu's can make that claim. Everyone else splits between the 5v and 3v rails, it seems to me--ie, with shared voltage rails the problem can be that when either the 3v or 5v rail demands more power then power is leeched from the shared rail to compensate. If devices on the shared rail need the power, though, then the voltage dip can cause problems with the devices on that rail and system instability (BSOD, etc.) can result. When all of your rails are powered seperately, though, all you have to consider is buying the psu that supplies the maximum you anticipate needing for each rail (with some headroom of course) and you eliminate the shared-rail power dip (a fairly common, often misdiagnosed problem) as a potential problem in your system.
No question PCP&C makes the best psu's money can buy, but I opted for the Antec True-Power 550 True Control instead simply because I can buy two TP550's for the price of one equivalent PCP&C cpu, and the TP 550 offers a few bells and whistles not offered by PCP&C (such as the intake fan which helps cool the TP 550's innards and improves its efficiency.) All psu's lose efficiency the higher their internal temps go, but of them all the PCP&C psus are the least affected by efficiency loss generated by rising operating temperatures--which is probably why they don't need a separate intake cooling fan like the TP 550. But the TP 550 has the intake fan nonetheless and is 1/2 the price of the PCP&C psu, and if memory serves the Antec fans are a good deal more quiet than the single fan used by PCP&C. So it's just a matter of studying the specs and the prices and choosing the one you want. But I'd constrain myself to these two brands because neither shares voltage rails internally.

Even genuine iphone 5 usb charging cable does not work for an year?

I have bought an iphone 5 last year. With it, came the original apple genuine iphone 5 lightning USB cable. It did not last for half year. I had to buy another original apple iphone 5 similar cable and it was gone within 3 months. I dont understand is it cable manufacturing problem? is apply selling fake cables? It is really annoying and I am really angry that such a reputed company cant give/ provide proper long lasting cables.
My experience with these two genuine cables was that after some months of usage, i used to observe even if its plugged it would not charge, or if you push it hard its charging. Firstly, I never keep my phone charging all time. Then how the hack can the charging cable die? or problem arise. I bought the phone and the charging cables when I was germany. I had to buy a 20 euro local companys USB charging cable after above two stopped working with no signs of damage. I have also tried cleaning the charging jack or socket where cable is inserted. It did not help. This local charging cable started to torn out automatically and it got fully damaged, Now I am in India, I bought another cable of 10 euros and it is just two days, it would not charge again.
I am really furious now whether you use original or local USB cables they dont last for even a week? what the ****?
Do I need to really pay for those portable charger with a big price tag, that my problem will be solved? very very upset. I never have any complaint with the phone, but the charging catastrophies, really ****** me off. I think of going back to other mobile brands like samsung or nokia where there is never a charging issue or battery drainage issue once you charge its goes for days or it is also expensive buy a nokia or samsung charger if lose it or break it. but for iphones its really bugging situation and not just me many people around the world are having sick problem with iphone brand with charging ISSUES.
APPLE PLEASE SORT THE PROBLEM OR SELL the PORTABLE IPHONE CHARGERS (WIRELESS) CHEAPER so that we dont have to use these silly little lightning cables. or I fear my APPLE I PHONE 5 is not genuine or its FAKE.
PLEASE HELP>

Look closely at the way you handle the cables. I have never had any cable, Apple or third-party, fail on me.

HP Laserjet 6MP fails to print with parallel-to-USB converter cable

I have a LaserJet 6 MP parallel printer which I was using in 10.3.9 with a parallel-to-USB converter cable. The Printer Utility saw it natively as a USB device and it printed just fine most of the time, although it would occasionally fail to print, so I installed a different driver called usbtb 1.0.15, and after that it printed very reliably.
Now I've upgraded to 10.4.9, and the Printer Utility still detects the HP printer natively as a USB device, and I also installed the formerly-reliable usbtb driver again, but the printer now fails to print with either driver. It acts like it's going to, but then it quits.
When I choose Print, all the features of the printer are shown, and I can select which tray to take paper from etc., and the printer dialogue box says "Printing," the activity light on the printer flashes just as it always does when printing is in progress, but then, instead of printing, the activity light stops flashing and the print job disappears from the dialogue box.
Can anyone tell my why this printer is failing to print now, and how I might be able to get it working again?
Thanks,
Tom

Wait a minute! It's only certain Indesign documents that won't print.
All TextEdit docs will print.
I created a few scribbles in Photoshop and they print.
But with InDesign, there is no predicting which documents will print or will not print. On some that will not print, if I remove all but one text box, then they will print. On other documents that do print, if I copy some text off of one that won't print and paste it in, then that one stops printing too.
On some that won't print, if I erase everything on the page and create a new text box and type a few words into it, the page will print. If I revert to the previously saved version, once again the page won't print.
What kind of craziness is this, anyway? It seems random. I can't figure it out.
Even on the documents that won't print, when I try to print them the printer's activity light blinks as though it is just about to print, but then the light goes out without printing.
Anybody got any ideas what this problem is and how to fix it?
All I know is that EVERYTHING printed before I upgraded from 10.3.9 to 10.4.9.
Tom

WIth LabVIEW how do I control an instrument with a RS232 output, using a RS232 to USB converter cable.

WIth LabVIEW how do I control an instrument with a RS232 output, using a RS232 to USB converter cable since I dont have rs232 ports. I have two instruments that I want to control in this manner. One is an Imada ZPS force gage with RS232 output. The other is a Panasonic HL-G103-S-J laser micrometer sensor which is RS422. I've done considerable LabVIEW programming using GPIB but I have no experience with devices like these. Any tutorial or examples would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I understand that you want to control a device which having RS 232 port as output. If so, you can use an USB-RS232 cable from PC to device and you can control or monitor the device.
See this link http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/epd/p/id/2669
Also, first check the device in hyperterminal and then continue to program in labVIEW. You can find the serial VI's in Instrument I/O.

Usb converter cable help needed

I am trying to use an external microphone for iMovies. It apears I can use a USB microphone I have, after talking to someone at Apple.
However, I need a cable which will connect the non-rectangular end of a usb cable to a 30 pin connector. Or the newer connector if that's going to be easier.
Apple sells usb converter cables which have the "rectangular" end of a usb cable which leads to the 30 pin (obviously becuase it's the connector with the power brick). But I need one with the different end -- the end that generally sticks into the printer or other device -- which will then connect with a 30 pin connector. it's not a trapezoid, but more of that than a square.
Does anyone know where I can find this? Do I need to worry where it's made? I ask becuase I've used some Belkin cables in the past with iPods and had some issues with them connecting cleanly. I've looked on the Apple site and seen ones that say they're for cameras, so I feared they were for the mini-usb connectors, or wouldn't work for some othere reason.
Help would be appreciated. Thanks.

It sounds like your mic has USB B, while the standard is USB A.
THe camera connection kit comes with a USB to 30 pin, but it's regular USB, which is A, not USB B. So maybe a USB B female to USB A male converter? Plug your mic into the converter then the converter into the apple connector.
But unless your mic is powered, I'm not sure if the iPad will power the mic through a converter, so whatever you play with you may want to make sure they have a good return policy.
If you try to use the lightning connection, which is the newer one, may be even more problimatic simply because iOS 7.0.4 activated software that looks for signed chips in plugins and those signed chips are only authorized to companies that have gotten apple's permission to make the connector.....which adds another element of 'might not work' to the whole thing.

E72 - Calendar not syncing via USB data cable (Out...

PROBLEM:
Syncing the E72-2 Calendar to Outlook over USB Data cable returned synchronization errors.
HISTORY:
Previously was using MfE and Google Calendar as a go-between from Outlook 2003 to my E72. It worked OK for a couple of weeks, but then turned to **** (appointments disappearing from phone, duplicates that couldn't be deleted, sending tons of 'decline' messages to work colleagues from my personal Gmail account...etc. etc.) It is abundantly clear that MfE and Google Calendar were not meant to play together at this point in time.
Next strategy was to use PC Suite to sync with the Outlook calendar directly via cable. This was not successful either. The default Sync profile on the phone only offers Data Bearer of Bluetooth or GPRS, no cable. Sure enough, PC Suite would fail immediately with 0 events synced, saying to check the Idle status of the phone.
SOLUTION that worked for me:
Overview:
- Delete all calendar entries on the phone, even those that are 'stuck'. (Note: you DON'T need to wipe your phone for this - that is Nokia's lazy solution but there are easier ways.)
- Run PC Suite Cleaner from Nokia
- Reinstall PC Suite
- Run PC Suite, connect the phone via USB only when prompted
- Configure the Sync profile on the phone
- Configure the Sync application on the PC
- Sync!
Details:
0a. Clean off all calendar entries from the phone. To get rid of stubborn ones, you can try to sync the phone via bluetooth or internet to an empty Google or other calendar to remove all entries. (I did this by syncing to an empty iCal calendar on my Mac) Alternatively, you can also connect the phone to PC Suite, then open the phone calendar in PC Suite and delete all appointments using the trash can button. (Recurring series will only need to be deleted once.)
0b. Exit PC Suite. Ensure it is not still running in the Taskbar.
1. Run the Nokia PC Suite Cleaner, downloadable from Nokia's support site. Restart when prompted.
2. Re-install PC Suite version 7.1.40.6
3. Run PC Suite before connecting the phone.
3a. Select Cable connection, then connect the phone when prompted.
3b. PC Suite should install the necessary drivers and software (if this is working, you will see several USB device popups in your taskbar.)
4. On the phone, go to Ctrl Panel --> Phone --> Sync.
4a. If you have been messing around with MfE or other sync methods, delete those extraneous sync profiles from the phone. Go to "Change Active Profile" - if you see anything besides 'PC Suite', select it and then choose 'Delete' from the Options menu.
4b. After any extra Sync profiles are gone, the phone will default back to 'PC Suite.' Ensure the PIM data you wish to sync (Calendar, etc.) is selected with a red X.
4c. It does not seem to matter what you select for Data Bearer - I am using Bluetooth and that's working even though the target PC does not have it.
4d. 'Allow sync requests' should be set to 'Automatically accept'
4e. For 'Synchronization type' select the value that works for you. ('To phone only')
5. Run the Sync application in PC Suite.
5b. Ensure the phone has not automatically locked itself.
5c. Click the 'Sync' button in the PC Sync app.
5d. You should see Connecting....Waiting....Reading.....etc. while the content is syncing.
5e. If it stops after Waiting and returns a communication error, you may need to try the above steps again, and/or do a clean install on your phone. :-(
Hope this helps someone out there. Note that this is mostly from memory, so if I inadvertently skipped any steps or if anything needs further clarification, please respond to this thread to help future readers.

Herve55 I can confirm that the DC-6 (remember to buy the the one with USB-micro connection) works.
However the only reason for me wanting to use the supplied USB to USB-micro cable in the car (with 3rd party cigarette adapter) was to first, get rid of that annoying spiral cord and second to have the data cable with me at all times.
Sad to say that I´eve by now definitely tried all possible solutions for the data cable "CA-101" without any luck.
My N97 witch I was very satisfied with at start started to burn battery,reboot,loose memory, become sluggish and then after 8 months of aggravation i sent it on a flyer in the wall.
I have now after 15 years changed brand.
Conclusively the guys at Nokia seems to carry to many models for any possibility of making further great phones! in other words they´v gone sloppy.

Which USB do I have?

I have a 1GHz G4 iMac. I want to purchase a new iPod but they do not let you transfer songs etc via Firewire anymore (a completely whole different thread I could start on that). I called my local Apple Store and they told me that my model came out in both USB 1 and USB 2. How can I find out which one I have.
Thanks

I own a 800MHz iMac with USB 1.1 and was also concerned about syncing and charging the new iPods with it. I connected my 40GB 4th Gen iPod via USB docking cable and can confirm that it does charge and sync with my iMac. Although I have not tried the video iPod with it yet, I'm pretty sure that it will work although you'll have to wait a bit longer to sync your iTunes library via USB 1.1. But the most important thing for me is that it WILL WORK. I may have to wait longer than usual to transfer my entire 30+GB library, but once it's done, small sync jobs like downloading a CD or two at a time will not be that bad using USB 1.1.
-mike.

Which USB 64GB flash drives are compatible with Mac Mini?

I need to use a USB 64GB flash drive, formatted for both PC and Apple, with my Mac Mini. The largest USB flash that Apple sells is 32GB. Which USB 64GB flash drives are compatible with Mac Mini. If most are, are there any that I should avoid? Thanks.

I'm assuming that when I connect the USB to the Mac it gets formatted for Mac. Then I follow your directions and it gets formatted for Windows, in addition to Mac. I'd choose ExFAT since it is a 64GB USB.
No no. A brand new drive will be formatted as "something", most likely something for Windows, and that could be FAT (which a Mac can also read and write to) or NTFS (which a Mac can read but not write to).
So, you'll need to make sure it's formatted as ExFAT, instead of what it is. A medium can be in always only one format.
About the expense: Fry's is advertising a 64GB Patriot USB Flash Drive for $22.99. Is that considered expensive for a USB flash drive?
That'd be dirt-cheap, I'd say. Expect it to be very slow.
I've read answers that are somewhat related to my question, and some warn that USB's are slow. Maybe I should consider another option?
USB is not that slow (though there are faster buses). And USB flash drives come in different speeds, where especially the "write" speed can vary hugely.
The advantage of USB is that it's widely spread, and lots of media is on the market, making it very affordable. The only other affordable alternative is an external HDD, I'd say, where you get much bigger drives for less money than a small 64GB USB flash drive...
My main objective is that, in switching from Windows to Mac, I want to be able to access Windows files that I've backed up to a Seagate Free Agent. I bought a LaCie with the Mac Mini, but will still want to use the Free Agent. I need to reformat the Free Agent for the Mac (hopefully for Mac and Windows; while learning to use the Mac and Numbers and Pages I may have emergency jobs that I'll need to do with Excel and Word on the PC), so my plan is to move the files on the Free Agent to the 64GB flash drive, reformat the Free Agent so that, hopefully, the Mac will read the files on it after I move them back to the Free Agent from the USB.
Why don't you copy the content of the Free Agent meanwhile to the Mac's HDD? Then copy it back after re-formatting the Free Agent? Why would you need an extra USB drive?
Any ideas you have about how to achieve this objective will be appreciated. Maybe I should buy a third, small, external hard drive? Maybe there is a way to move the Windows files from the Seagate to the LaCie?
Exactly... you seem to have already extra space on the LaCie drive...
My understanding is that the Apple Store does not want to move files from an external hard drive to the Mac.
I don't know where this could origin, but that's as wrong as it is funny. What has the App Store to do with you moving some files from one drive to another?
I should add that I don't have enough remaining free space on the PC hard drive to hold the files on the Free Agent, so that is not an option.
No, but you have a Mac with a built-in HDD, and you got the LaCie drive. Again, the Mac should have neither a problem to read from the Free Agent, nor to write to the LaCie.
From what you're telling here, you have lots of space already with what you have, I can't see the need for the USB flash drive, at least not for the purpose you mention here.
It seems that your understanding is that (a) a drive comes in a particular format for, or not for Mac, and you can't change it, and (b) that for some reason (App Store?!) Macs aren't allowed to copy files from external files. Well, both is wrong...

USB Host Cable?

The components list that came with my K1 shows an optional USB Host Cable available. I would assume this is the cable that you would use to connect a USB device to the K1 Tablet (such as an external hard drive which seems to be an option since Settings has an option to Mount a USB Storage Device) Now I've looked all over Lenovos site & the internet & cannot find this anywhere. Any ideas? I know the ThinkPad tablet allows USB devices including keyboards & mice. Dont see why the K1 wouldnt if it just had a way to connect a USB device (hence the Host Cable)

That part is not free and does not come with the K1. So you just got lucky.
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Which USB Firewall cable do I Buy.......

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