White balance adds blue - looks worse!

Hello. I am having a little problem with the white balance color picker. I shoot with a Canon 5D and I always start by shooting a WhiBal card. Prior to using the white balance tool I have values of R:196 G:196 B:187 on the WhiBal card itself. Since the Auto WB setting is on in the camera it looks pretty good but a little too yellow. You'd think that the white balance tool would normalize things. Instead it goes to R:196 G:196 B:207! Everything immediately looks too blue. Aperture 1.0 did a great job 1.1 not so good. I read elsewhere about a bug, am I getting bit by it?

Yes Joshua, there is a Santa Claus and you are getting bit by the color temperature bug. Evidently, according to Apple, code that had been totally fixed in the 1.1 release was broken again just before deployment. Unfortunately, no one noticed until it was in users' hands.
According to Joe Schorr, Aperture Product Manager, "they are all over it". Expect it to be rectified in 1.1.1, which is promised as soon as possible.
PowerMac G5 Dual 2.5Ghz w/4.5 GB RAM + 2 Terabytes Mac OS X (10.4.6)

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Why does daylight white balance add +10 to tint?

Everytime I take a picture outside, import it into lightroom, and select daylight white balance, +10 is added to the tint and all my pictures have a reddish tint to them? I know I can just change the tint back to 0, but I was just wondering why they would do this? What benefit does it have? And can this setting be adjusted?

Daylight is a fabulous earthy warm colour in California, in Cape Town and much of the Western Cape of South Africa, Australia is a little more reddy and the UK is very blue, great that a preset reckons that all these are the same!
I'm talking from a RAW perspective here, I find JPEG just cant cope with selecting auto and then hoping to rescue colour balance (IMHO)
I find for much of my landscape and arctitectural photography that I click daylight, look at it, click auto, look at that and then pick and choose, usually winding down the magenta close to zero as any shot with green life and foliage often look better with a tiny bit more green in them. However, any people shots need to be looked at as green people look like zombies, and the magenta can be a little more kind - certainly on white faces.
So, use it carefully and sometimes the auto is reasonable, or a good place to tweak the magenta and warmth.

Studio white balance turns blue in Aperture

I have just noticed this problem in Aperture. In the studio I shoot a grey card to set the white balance and Curves grey point afterwards for the whole batch in Aperture. It has been working fine, for several years in fact, but now the white background has a definite blue tinge which carries over to the processed image, I can correct it in Photoshop by using the white eyedropper in curves but surely Aperture should get it right at the beginning of the whole process! All my settings have remained the same.
Is anyone else having this problem?

Ah hah! I have played around with the white balance tool and think I have the answer.
I foolishly thought that by clicking on a grey card with the eye dropper set to "Natural Grey" that I would get a perfect result - silly me! I now find that I have to have the eye dropper set to "Temperature & Tint" - (just like the old days!) and this produces the perfect white.
So whats the point in having a grey option when it doesn't work with grey objects, and while I'm on the subject, who'se skin tone is that setting calibrated to - a white European, a tanned European, an African, an American Indian or an eskimo, because no two peoples skin tones are the same?

White Balance panel just shows, Auto, As shot and Custom but im shooting Raw?

In my White balance panel, its only have 3 option to choose from, but the rest is nowhere to be seen like the cloudy,daylight,shade, flourescent and tungsten. but im shooting raw in my camera, i dont know why there is no enough options to choose from.

If you click on an image that is showing you no white balance options, and look the two boxes highlighted in red in the image below, what do those two fields say?

Color correcting auto white balance footage

I shot some video yesterday and at the time of the shoot, I made sure to set my white balance, however after looking at the footage I notice the color temperature slightly shifts constantly. I don't know why this happened, but it's too late to investigate, my project is due in less than a week.
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Running Final Cut Pro 6.0.2
PS: I found Avid has auto color correction -- basically what I'm looking for I guess. Unfortunately I don't have Avid.

there's no auto color correction feature directly in FCP
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White Balance Effect

CS6 Production Premium Suite
Win7x64
Nvidia GForce GTX 470
Intel i7 930 @2.8GHz
12 GB memory
Canon XA10
Does Premiere have a White Balance effect like Camera Raw which adjusts the white balance Kelvin?
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Is there a third party that does?
Thanks in advance.

I use an Expo Disc to manually set the white balance for the Canon XA10. However, the lighting was suddenly changed while shooting. Unfortunately, the XA10 greys white balance changes while shooting. The speaker would have gone ballistic if I asked her to stop for a moment to change to auto white balance. So I was forced to shoot with a manual white balance setting that looked great before the lighting change but looked awful afterward. Hence, the need to make white balance adjustments in post production.

Please add white balance adjustment to brush tool!!

Please add to the brush tool the ability to adjust white balance. I know you can currently paint a color over areas, but I would like to see a true white balance control in a brush. This would be quite useful for wedding or event photographers who shoot quickly in varied lighting often without flash.

More specifically, I would like to paint at 5500k or 3500k or whatever color temp I choose, measure, detect, or feel so inclined to. Like I said before, I realize the paint with tint works, but painting a white balance would be much easier. I never mentioned accurate. Accurate photographs in mixed lighting usually look bad (especially when you mix in fluorescent). My clients don't want "accurate" photos, they want what they remembered the event to look like. I don't feel the need to suggest the current features fail in any way to make a suggested improvement upon those features. The current (LR2) demosiac engine works well, but LR3 got an overhaul. Was demosiac in LR1 and LR2 a failure? I believe my suggestion is consistent with the intent of LR. While painting a warming or cooling color would certainly achieve the desired results, painting a preset color balance or manual temp/tint would be quicker. It makes for a better workflow.

White Balancing pictures under heavy blue lighting

I am looking at LightRoom to process RAW images from my D3100. I'll be shooting my reef aquarium which is under heavy blue lighting (about 450nm). I can balance the pictures in Capture NX2, however in Lightroom the settings are maxed when using the dropper against an 18% grey card and the picture is not completely balanced.
any suggestions on how I can balance beyond the max of the sliders, or alternatives to balancing?
here is an old picture of the first day I got the lights and was learning the new camera - pre (JPG version from shooting RAW+JPG) and post balance on the RAW picture done in NX2:
*** note that the tank doesn't look this blue, I'm learning that our eyes see things differently than the camera.
Thanks!
pre-process
post process

Just a couple of thoughts:
1. Marine Aquarium lighting (particularly reef-friendly lighting systems) doesn't always broadcast a full spectrum of light. In the same way, gymnasium sodium vapor lights do not broadcast all the colors of the continuous spectrum. In less-than-full spectrum lighting it can be nearly impossible to white balance as you are missing key color components.
2. Water absorbs different colors of light at different rates. What is balanced at the top of an aquarium may be deficient at the bottom of an aquarium. It is possible to have a graduated differential in your white balance in a single shot if you cover a sufficient range of depth. As you go deeper in the tank, the ambient lights (fluorescents and/or tungsten) start to become significant to the overhead aquaria lights.
Neither of those solves your issue today but it should suggest that you might have to live with these limitations when photographing aquarium where you cannot provide your own light.

Removing blue cast/tint from JPG (wrong white balance setting while taking picture)

Hi,
Photosohop newb here, still using CS3 (10.0), so please be patient.
I was at a convention not long ago, where I took lots of pictures with my phone. I only noticed at home, that a few of the pictures came out with an intense blue cast because of a bad white balance setting (I must have accidentally changed it).
I was trying to fix the image for the last 2 hours, with no real luck. I tried everything under Image -> Adjustments -> "Auto Color", "Color Levels" and "Match Color", moving the sliders up and down to get the best match. The best I could come up with was still far away from the other pictures I took the same day.
Here is one of the bad pictures: http://imgur.com/vw12aTQ
And here is one I took just a minute later with the "normal" setting: http://imgur.com/RMFm7fo
I actually got a pretty good match by cutting out some of the cobblestones from both pictures and using "Match Color" -> "Source", but I couldn't apply this technique to the whole picture.
Could somebody please help me to make the colors of the first picture similar to the second one?
Thank you,
Roland

Here's an easy fix...
Choose Image - Adjust - Curves, then click the Gray Point dropper and sample something in the image that should be a neutral gray - say one of the stones on the ground. Click in various places until you like what you see.
-Noel

Custom white balance looks bad/off when set on the 5d Mark iii

I got my Mark iii in June and every time I set a custom white balance it doesn't look right. I have used both a purchased grey card and a white piece of paper, both look bad. When I set it on my Rebel Xs it looks perfect, no adjustments needed in post processing, but not the case with the Mark iii. Shouldn't it be the other way around, considering the price tag on the iii ?

Canon "tags" RAW images with meta-data regarding white balance (and other info) but does not actually alter the image. Depending on what you use to process the images on the computer, it can read those tags and decide to apply it's interpretation. But those white balance adjustments would be applied by your computer software (assuming they are being applied -- not all software does this) -- and not by the camera.
I use Aperture (Apple's pro photography software), which has a camera profile for each camera. The profiles can compensate if, for example, one camera is naturally "cooler" than another.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Images look different with same white balance

Hey folks,
Just ran some tests between a Nikon D300 and a Nikon D7000. I pulled both images into Lightroom 3.4 (PC), and matched the white balance using the White Balance Selector tool and a WhiBal card in a test image. And even though they now have the same white balance, the colors are distinctly different. How is this possible? (The same image shot with a D200 looks nearly identical to the D300.) Examples:
D7000
D300
All other specs the same:
Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8 @50mm
1/80 @ f/5.6, ISO 200
RAW
Color space: AdobeRGB
Picture Control setting: SD (standard)
Custom white balance from WhiBal card, matched in Lightroom 3.4: 5200, +38
I need to be able to shoot with multiple bodies and sync them so I don't have to adjust the batches separately.
Thanks in advance

WB is not the only factor involved in how colour is created in a digital image. The WB just sets the colour temperature. How the colour is created is effected by many other factors, hence calibration profiles. By calibrating the sensor you can produce a standardised response for a particular individual sensor. You could then carefully match this with a different sensor. However there will always be subtle differences. It would be far easier when requiring a particular shoot to have exactly the same look, to use one camera and one lens to achieve it.
When making a film, directors, such as Hitchcock, would insist on not only using the same film stock, from the same batch, but in the case of Vertigo even had the same water source used for all processing to achieve the look he was after.

Unsatisfactory E71 auto white balance, blue/purple...

The E71's camera doesn't really shine with regard to automatic white balance. There's almost always some blue to purple tint. It seems to depend whether the "flash" was used and whether the camera is used in day or "night" mode. The other (non-auto) white balance modes usually don't match the actual lighting conditions too. Is it a deficient white-balance algorithm or is this tint just from the heavy noise in non-night mode? Is there any workaround (on the phone, not postprocessing on a PC) or fix, maybe it is improved in 200.x firmware? - Kolja

Here:
fw: 200.x
Start camera as normal
before capturing any picture, set white balance to day light and press Ok
After that set it back to automatic
Purple tint is gone
You must do it after capturing
Nokia's guys please fix it

Add photo-to-photo hue/white balance tool

Would work like this.
Alt-Click on area of color (white/gray, sky, skin) to sample/memorize it.
Select another photo.
Click in a similar area on that photo to match hue (with white balance). Click and hold to adjust proportionately more/less (the double arrow).
For all I know this feature is already in LR and I've missed it.

I am also having the same issue with the white balance turning yellowish.
Message was edited by: sacredlotus

--- •• WORKING WHITE BALANCE FOR YELLOW TINT Z1 ••

Hello Guys,
I'm here to bring some HOPE for those users who won, I mean who got Z1 from the lottery yellow tint issue. I am an XDA user since then and I found a thread saying that the Japanese version of Xperia Z1 SO-01F got white balance settings yesterday and the OP ported it to our Z1 C69xx !
I installed it and CONFIRMED ITS WORKING. Results are farm different from Screen Adjuster app from playstore and such where blue is really noticeably. Navigation bar also changes using this. Although I'm wondering why it has different sliders compared to those on Xperia Z (Hue and Saturation), it will give you a peace of mind that the nightmare has ended.
Here are some screenies:
You need to be ROOTED to have this, no other way. It's flashable through CWM but if you are just ROOTED and doesn't have CWM installed, you can just push the files to the folders and change permissions. (tell me if you need help on this one)
Here's the original thread with the download link from XDA :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2572080
If you're an XDA member, don't forget to hit THANKS to him. Don't forget to give Kudos and / or mark the correct answer
It would be much better still if Sony will provide an official solution for this headache issue.
Reply with results you got or problems you encountered installing, Ill help. That's all. Enjoy.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Yes, we will add a setting for white balance in an upcoming version of the phones software planned for the beginning of next year (see my response here: http://talk.sonymobile.com/t5/Xperia-Z1/Xperia-Z1-C6903-Display-Issue-Yellow-Hue-Tint/td-p/391521/pa...).
I don't have any Japanese unit so i can't confirm if it has been added there already and what it looks like though.
- Official Sony Xperia Support Staff
If you're new to our forums make sure that you have read our Discussion guidelines.
If you want to get in touch with the local support team for your country please visit our contact page.

Correcting the white balance?

I have some clips that are slightly blue on the white. Was wondering whether there was a way to correct the white balance in post-production (FC2)? Thank you.

I'll add to Andy's reply.
If you open the Scopes and select the Parade scope, look at the relative traces of red, blue, and green. A well balanced shot of an evenly composed scene will display on the Parade scope with fairly similar red, blue, and green traces.
So, while you keep an eye on the Parade, move the little circle in the white color wheel slowly away from blue until the red, blue and green traces are mostly even. Then look at the traces in the zero to 20 unit range and do the same thing with the black color wheel. Then again with the mids wheel while looking at the traces in the 40 to 70 unit range.
That should get you close. After that, it's an art. Make further corrections S-L-O-W-L-Y, with very small changes at a time, until things look right on a properly calibrated external video monitor.
But before you do all that, look at the waveform monitor scope and adjust sliders at the base of the whiles and blacks color wheels until the trace shows video going from 0 to 100, or close to it, depending on the scene. (Sometimes, a properly displayed shot just doesn't go all the way from 0 to 100, and should not be made to do so. Most times, this will work - do it before the rest of the color correction.)
NOTE: This is a too-short explanation of basic color correction techniques. If this doesn't make sense, seek the details elsewhere. The Peachpit Apple Training Series book, "Advanced Color Correction and Effects in Final Cut Pro 5" is really good, though it hasn't been updated for FCP 6 (not that it has to be - no changes.)
http://www.amazon.com/Apple-Pro-Training-Advanced-Correction/dp/0321335481/

White balance adds blue - looks worse!

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