White balance off

I have the Mac Book with the pre-installed iSight. It worked great yesterday, but today the camera's white balance seems way off because it is make the picture all blue (as in, there is not red, green, white, black components). Any thoughts?
Thanks for your help!
Mac Book Mac OS X (10.4.6)

HI RG214,
Welcome to the Apple Discussions
Does this help ?
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302520
6:03 PM Sunday; July 9, 2006

Similar Messages

8100 Camera White Balance Off?

Hi. A few weeks ago my camera on my blackberry pearl started going crazy. The white balance is off and the picture of the camer is awful. Any suggestions?

Since this seems like it may be something related to software, I suggest a clean application load of the device software. Before you perform the clean application load, be sure to backup your device. See the article below for more details:
How to perform a clean reload of the BlackBerry Device Software using BlackBerry Desktop Manager for Windows - KB11320
http://www.blackberry.com/btsc/KB11320
Hope this helps.

Fixing white balance

How do you fix the white balance in Camera Raw by selecting an area that should be white if there are no good samples of white? Will bringing in a white swatch to white image be acceptable to white balance off?
Thanks.

Hi Stan,
You don't need a white area, if you go to http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=1350898 you will find a little tutorial on how to find a neutral color area in your picture. A bit involved, but it is very useful when there is no obvious neutral srea in your picture.
Roger

Apply White Balance To Multiple Images

Now that I'm shooting RAW all the time, I'm really, REALLY getting tired of having to manually change the white balance for every single image. As many of you probably know, you can select any number of images in Abode RAW, and then use your WB source image to mass-apply the white balance to said images. Further, you can select images and then contextual-menu to apply changes.
For the life of me, I cannot see how to do this in Aperture. I've tried everything I know to do, but I still have to manually activate individual images and then set the WB. If I could mass-apply a preset to a group of pics, that'd be passable -- but I don't see how to do that, either.
Thoughts? Advice? Solutions?
Thanks,
Maury

Hello! One way to do it is to first make sure that Primary Only is off. Then make the white balance correction to an image. Then use the Lift tool to lift the white balance off it. A dialog box will open showing you what is being lifted. Now you can shift-select a beginning image and an ending image. The shift-select will apply the Stamp to everything in between.

5800 Video capture - disable white balance

Hi
Anyone know a way to turn white balance off when capturing video - it is really annoying as the video keep readjusting to every change really obviously!
Cheers

That's ALC (automatic level control).
White balance is what adjusts the overall tint (not brightness) of the picture according to the type of ambient light. For example, neon light gives everything a green tint, so the "camera" compensates for this.
Was this post helpful? If so, please click on the white "Kudos!" star below. Thank you!

Adobe DNG converter is corrupting NEF files. The color is way off and it's not the camera white balance.

I was using the converter for a few months and it was working fine. Now it will convert the files, but the color is really messed. I know it is not the white balance, because the same files convert fine to TIF files through Nikon's software. I am using this converter for Nikon d610 NEF files. Here's a sample DNG and the same image in TIF. Can anyone help? Thanks!

When you use the DNG Converter to make a DNG from an NEF, the DNG Converter applies the default Camera Raw settings. When I open your DNG it looks fine, but when you open it, it looks off. That is because you've some how set your Camera Raw defaults to have a bunch of customized settings specific to a particular picture, instead of having them all be normal settings. Below you'll see what Photoshop is saying the settings of the DNG-Converted-JPG are, with the non-defaults marked in bold. The main problems are the WB being custom and a bunch of HSL setting changes.
Here is what Photoshop reports that the JPG was created using:
      <rdf:Description rdf:about=""
            xmlns:crs="http://ns.adobe.com/camera-raw-settings/1.0/">
         <crs:RawFileName>hug_8290_0215_1.dng</crs:RawFileName>
         <crs:Version>6.0</crs:Version>
         <crs:ProcessVersion>5.7</crs:ProcessVersion>
         <crs:WhiteBalance>Custom</crs:WhiteBalance>
         <crs:Temperature>5732</crs:Temperature>
         <crs:Tint>+26</crs:Tint>
         <crs:Exposure>0.00</crs:Exposure>
         <crs:Shadows>5</crs:Shadows>
         <crs:Brightness>+50</crs:Brightness>
         <crs:Contrast>+25</crs:Contrast>
         <crs:Saturation>-4</crs:Saturation>
         <crs:Sharpness>90</crs:Sharpness>
         <crs:LuminanceSmoothing>0</crs:LuminanceSmoothing>
         <crs:ColorNoiseReduction>25</crs:ColorNoiseReduction>
         <crs:ChromaticAberrationR>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationR>
         <crs:ChromaticAberrationB>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationB>
         <crs:VignetteAmount>0</crs:VignetteAmount>
         <crs:ShadowTint>0</crs:ShadowTint>
         <crs:RedHue>0</crs:RedHue>
         <crs:RedSaturation>+11</crs:RedSaturation>
         <crs:GreenHue>0</crs:GreenHue>
         <crs:GreenSaturation>0</crs:GreenSaturation>
         <crs:BlueHue>+12</crs:BlueHue>
         <crs:BlueSaturation>+2</crs:BlueSaturation>
         <crs:FillLight>0</crs:FillLight>
         <crs:Vibrance>-6</crs:Vibrance>
         <crs:HighlightRecovery>0</crs:HighlightRecovery>
         <crs:Clarity>0</crs:Clarity>
         <crs:Defringe>0</crs:Defringe>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentRed>0</crs:HueAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>0</crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>+1</crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>+5</crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>-9</crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>-2</crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>+14</crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>+25</crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>+26</crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>+32</crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>+40</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>+13</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>+3</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>+15</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>+3</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>+4</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:SplitToningShadowHue>231</crs:SplitToningShadowHue>
         <crs:SplitToningShadowSaturation>32</crs:SplitToningShadowSaturation>
         <crs:SplitToningHighlightHue>45</crs:SplitToningHighlightHue>
         <crs:SplitToningHighlightSaturation>33</crs:SplitToningHighlightSaturation>
         <crs:SplitToningBalance>+74</crs:SplitToningBalance>
         <crs:ParametricShadows>-39</crs:ParametricShadows>
         <crs:ParametricDarks>-7</crs:ParametricDarks>
         <crs:ParametricLights>-15</crs:ParametricLights>
         <crs:ParametricHighlights>+14</crs:ParametricHighlights>
         <crs:ParametricShadowSplit>25</crs:ParametricShadowSplit>
         <crs:ParametricMidtoneSplit>50</crs:ParametricMidtoneSplit>
         <crs:ParametricHighlightSplit>75</crs:ParametricHighlightSplit>
         <crs:SharpenRadius>+1.0</crs:SharpenRadius>
         <crs:SharpenDetail>25</crs:SharpenDetail>
         <crs:SharpenEdgeMasking>0</crs:SharpenEdgeMasking>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteAmount>-24</crs:PostCropVignetteAmount>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteMidpoint>50</crs:PostCropVignetteMidpoint>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteFeather>97</crs:PostCropVignetteFeather>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteRoundness>0</crs:PostCropVignetteRoundness>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteStyle>1</crs:PostCropVignetteStyle>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteHighlightContrast>0</crs:PostCropVignetteHighlightContrast>
         <crs:GrainAmount>0</crs:GrainAmount>
         <crs:ColorNoiseReductionDetail>50</crs:ColorNoiseReductionDetail>
         <crs:ConvertToGrayscale>False</crs:ConvertToGrayscale>
         <crs:ToneCurveName>Medium Contrast</crs:ToneCurveName>
         <crs:CameraProfile>Adobe Standard</crs:CameraProfile>
         <crs:CameraProfileDigest>51B4314CF8312BA027EF3FC60481FB35</crs:CameraProfileDigest>
         <crs:HasSettings>True</crs:HasSettings>
To fix the problem you're gonna need to reset your camera raw defaults:
And then be careful when saving new camera raw defaults with the menu item just above, that your image has the camera raw defaults applied to it, except whatever small change you want to be the new default.

How can I turn off Automatic White Balance/Correction?

Hi,
I shoot color Infra-Red images. White Balance is handled in Camera - and then in Photoshop. As a new user to Lightroom 2 - everytime I view/click on an image in the Library - the color/balance of the image changes to a deep red, and I lose all of the vivid colors that I had from the original image. The files are Nikon NEF RAW - and I am looking for a way to turn this automatic change in colors off. Can anyone help?
Thanks and have a great weekend !!!
Dave

Hal,
I have a Nikon D-70 that has the Lifepixel infra-red conversion. Take a look at their website and you can see the great color infra-red pictures that you can take with this converted camera. So there is my problem - I can set the camera at a PRE White-Balance and shoot Cyan/Blue/Green photos - and then import them into Lightroom. I see the photos in the Library - but as I click on them to view them, they change color to Red. Now if I set up the camera to take White Balance as Auto - or pretty much anything else other than the PRE (for which I can adjust), I will also get a Red photo. Red is OK if you want to convert to B+W - but if you want to retain all of the colors, I need to keep the color that the camera shot - without Lightroom changing them. I looked at the history - and only have an import/date. Other than clicking on it to view - no changes have been applied by me - yet. I will try to shoot them as jpg's - the ones I am working with right now were shot in the summer. We have -20 Deg. C. here right now - so Infra Red camera is in bag - have no green leaves to shoot. Looking through preferences and settings to see if I can find a "turn-off"....... Actually - let me load the photos with Bridge and see what they look like there..........
Dave

ACR 4: White Balance readings off of a target

In the good old days (ACR 3.7 and previous), I could shoot a white balance target, then open the image in ACR and use the eyedropper to set the white balance. No more. Now, I get a message that states - "The clicked area is too bright to set the white balance. Please click on a less bright neutral area."
Well, I'm using (and have been using) Danny Pascale's White Target that was made specifically for this purpose. (http://www.babelcolor.com/main_level/White_Target.htm)
Something has changed, and it's not for the better. I've tried decreasing the exposure in ACR, to make sure the values are far below 255, to no avail. Interestingly, the first measurement "click" does nothing. The second gives the error. The is very reproducible. Something's not right...
--Rich Wagner

Ok...
"You sure seem helbent on using your White Disk as a target for the white balance in Camera Raw...as you've found out, that's a bit less than optimal if your sensor exposure will likely produce a clipped channel since Camera Raw won't let you."
Well, when I'm crawling around in the mud in Costa Rica, Ecuador, or Peru, soaked, the ColorChecker card doesn't fare well. I've gone through a number of them, and in *my* field use, they suck. Period. In a studio, they're fine. I still own several. I just measured one for the numbers I gave above. I'm helbent on having something that is
reliable in my use. I could care less what it's called or who makes it. On the other hand, you seem insistant that the White Disk is inferior, and I'm trying to figure out why (other than the fact that Mr. Knoll used the ColorChecker card when designing ACR).
"What Thomas has stated and what I know to be a fact, is that the lightest grey of the CC is what the white balance tool is designed to use. It's light enough that it's not too far down the scale but dark enough to not worry about clipping. So, the ideal is to use the same patch that the white balance tool in Camera Raw was designed around."
Really? On my card, the lightest gray on the ColorChecker is
not the most neutral. The
second gray is. You can see the numbers above. Are you implying that Camera Raw will be more accurate making a WB measurement off of a patch that is not neutral, compared to one that is?
"So, what is it about your White Disk that has you so fixated on using WHITE (at the risk of clipping)? Yes, you can use it as long as it doesn't clip...is it optimal? No."
Argghhh... If I shoot a test shot and the White Disk clips, then guess what? I'm overexposing! Time to adjust the exposure before going on. This is easy to see on the White Disk because I get zebra stripes. I'f I'm shooting a gray card, I don't get that feedback and I may later discover that
important stuff was clipped, and it's too late! Sure, I can color balance just fine, but important highlights are gone. Which is most important? I can always eyeball color temperature - it's subjective, anyway. Or I can measure off something neutral in the shot. Clipped channels? Data lost is data lost...
Perhaps our shooting conditions are very dissimilar. I have found the White Disk to be a useful tool, just like many others that I have. It works (against all expectations?) and it works well. If I overexpose a neutral white target, I am often overexposing something else of interest. It becomes a
red flag when checking exposure, since I often cannot even see the histogram on the back of the camera. I am certainly NOT recommending that everyone switch to using a White Disk. I have just been surprised at the response of those who feel that for whatever reason it
cannot work as well as gray. I see no theoretical reason why not - still. Show me the math, or a give me clear-cut reason. My understanding (and experience) says otherwise. Or to put it another way, if it didn't work, I wouldn't use it, and neither would anyone else. If someone frequently overexposes their shots and relies on highlight recovery, it's probably not a good tool for them (unless it helps them correct their exposure).
--Rich

White Balance seems off

Sometimes when i "wake up" my computer it seems like my white balance is a little off. My whites don't seem pure white and actually seem a little bluish. Does any one know what might be going on here or are my eyes just wigging out?

I've noticed that a couple of times myself but it's a) not consistent and b) seems to go away within a few seconds/minute or so ...
I'd assumed it was just the display 'warming up' or something (but then I'm usually doing this early in the morning with my first cup of coffee so I'm not 100% awake yet anyway )

Turn off auto white balance on USB camera

Hi,
I'm using a USB camera to capture images of bright colored lights. I have the light configured and working in MAX and Labview 2009. My problem is that the camera is set to auto white balance in MAX and Labview, and I can't seem to change this to no white balance. When the bright lights are imaged the white wall behind the light turns the complimentary color to the light as the software attempts to 'white balance' the entire image. There doesn't seem to be an option in Labview or MAX to turn this white balance to anything other than 'auto.' I've attached the program and a couple screen shots to show the problem.
Any help would be appreciated!
Attachments:
camera.vi ‏45 KB
Camera Image.JPG ‏24 KB
MAX settings.JPG ‏72 KB

Hi!
This might be late, but for the sake of reference I will answer anyway.
You should use 2 property nodes.
To the porpery: "CameraAttributes->ActiveAttribute"
you should wire the string: "CameraAttributes::WhiteBalance::Mode", and to the property "ValueDBL" you should wire 1 (for manual).
Then repeat this on a second property node but change "mode" to "value" and wire the desired value to "ValueDBL."
For a more complete description see my post on a similar problem with autofocus (change "Focus" to "WhiteBalance" and it is the same as described above).
http://forums.quickcamteam.net/showthread.php?tid=891
// Emil

Custom white balance looks bad/off when set on the 5d Mark iii

I got my Mark iii in June and every time I set a custom white balance it doesn't look right. I have used both a purchased grey card and a white piece of paper, both look bad. When I set it on my Rebel Xs it looks perfect, no adjustments needed in post processing, but not the case with the Mark iii. Shouldn't it be the other way around, considering the price tag on the iii ?

Canon "tags" RAW images with meta-data regarding white balance (and other info) but does not actually alter the image. Depending on what you use to process the images on the computer, it can read those tags and decide to apply it's interpretation. But those white balance adjustments would be applied by your computer software (assuming they are being applied -- not all software does this) -- and not by the camera.
I use Aperture (Apple's pro photography software), which has a camera profile for each camera. The profiles can compensate if, for example, one camera is naturally "cooler" than another.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Can you remove the camera white balance setting in Aperture

I have a Canon 7D and use Aperture for processing and storing my images.
With the Canon I shoot both video and still and frequently adjust the white balance in the camera. I make a frequent mistake in leaving the wrong white balance setting on - eg when taking video indoors in the evening I set the white balance to indoors (the Canon seems poor at white balance decision making on video) and then I forget I'm not using auto white balance and switch to taking a photo with flash. The result is a horrible blue photo - which if I don't spot the problem at the time seems very hard to correct afterwards.
I use the Aperture white balance adjustments frequently but unless there is a patch or white or grey I an use the dropper on, I find this particular situation seems to be right off the scale of what I can fix in Aperture. I end up with sliders at the extremes of the scales and no intuitive sense of what numbers to type in manually to try and get realistic colour - so I often end up discarding these photos even if the shot itself is something I'd like to use.
So my question is given I'm importing RAW, is there a way to show the phoo without the (wrong) white balance setting I applied in the camera, to let me choose white balance from scratch?
Or if not, do you have any advice about how to adjust from this very bluey unrealistic colour of image?

Kirkby - thanks for the quick reply.
Didn't know you could drag inside a value field - that's helpful.
But being able to get different numbers on the slider isn't the root of my problem.
In a specific example I have two photos - one taken with white balance set to flash and the photo was with flash, where after a bit of tweaking to get the colour I want the temp slider is at 5000K (and tint 0). The second photo has my shooting error with interior lighting white balance but taken with flash. The two shots were taken from almost the same point of the same view (but different people in frame). The shot with the white balance error comes off camera horribly blue coloured. I can fiddle with the two sliders - I take temperature to 20000K and tint to 40 to do the best with it I can, and with those settings one of the two faces is approaching flesh colour but the wall behind the subjects (which is a light blue in reality) is now appearing light yellow in places. I just can't get a good looking colour effect no matter ow extreme the slider settings.
I may have phrased my question badly - as I totally agree you can't show a raw without a colour setting - so maybe I'm better asking to be able to use a different colour setting on the raw data rather than having to start with adjustments on top of my white balance mistake.
Given the two shots were in the same place against the same background and the same lighting (both with flash) it seems to me I ought to be able to get a similar colour effect on both and I just can't. To illustrate here are the two photos (the one on the left was shot with flash wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 5000K and 0 tint, the one on the right was shot with indoor wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 20000K and 40 tint and it looks terrible!)
https://www.box.com/shared/qle3t6ovyhrd1egez3vc

White Balance Tool

I am using the following:
latest CS4 version
latest camera raw version
MAC 10.5.5
Can anyone help please - I open bridge, then open a raw file in camera raw. I then use the white balance tool. I go over the image with this tool to see the pixel values - but there are no pixel info showing on the R G B settings on the right (just below the graph). In Photoshop, this tool is working fine.
Is there a preference setting to activate this tool to work properly in camera raw?

Well, I have tested it again and the preference to start Bridge at log in, seems to be doing it. I ticked this off, closed down and started Bridge manually and the tool fully works OK with my work space. But could be something else, I don't know, but starting Bridge at log in on my computer seems to be this.
The saved work space I have set up as follows - on the left side of screen I have placed my favorites, folders, collections panels at top left, then underneath these, I have placed filter, metadata, keywords panels. I have no panels on the right and just have big thumbnails on the main area.
Anyway, thanks again, I can live with this now, I just start Bridge manually :-)

Premiere Elements 13 Eyedropper for white balance, gray, and black NOT WORKING. Help!

I'm using Premiere Elements 13.1 on an iMac, and trying to adjust the white balance on a clip with ZERO success. The main reason for this is that I cannot utilize the "eyedropper" selector; I know what should appear white, gray, and black, but cannot select those items.
In the Three-Way Color Corrector there are Eyedroppers to use to specify areas of known color range. I have tried without success to select ANY of the eyedroppers...
I have clicked on it - NOTHING
I have held the left mouse on it and attempted to drag it onto the frame - NOTHING
I have right-clicked it - NOTHING
The eyedroppers are not greyed out and they do respond when clicked. I have hit Reset button galore. I have restarted the program.
I have held my mouth funny - NOTHING :-)
When my cursor is hovering over the tool, it changes to an eyedropper. If I click, nothing happens when the cursor is moved - the cursor changes right back into its regular arrow shape. The cursor does nothing to the image if an item is clicked....there is no change to anything on the monitor.
I am a longtime Photoshop user but new to Premiere Elements. This dropper seems to work nothing like the PS ones. In fact, it doesn't work at all...so far.
Can someone please tell me what I need to do to simply select the eyedropper and take it onto the image and select the white (or gray or black)??? Before I go bananas (may be too late)? THANK YOU!

Still not working. I think the root cause of the problem is the mechanics of using the tool itself; I hope this screen shot shows up below ...
Here I have APPLIED EFFECTS open, and have selected Midtones (Greys) to be expanded so that the eyedropper and other details appear:
Now, just below where it has a box and "Impacted frame area in white" (which I know is a checkbox allowing the area effected to be seen), there is a little color box and an eyedropper.
What EXACTLY do I do to select (activate) the eyedropper and subsequently tell the program what I feel should be grey in the selected clip?
As mentioned before, I can click it and the cursor briefly changes to the same shape as the eyedropper. But as soon as I move the cursor a fraction, it changes back to an arrow (normal cursor) shape. Even then, going to the area I need to select in the image, and then clicking it, does exactly nothing to the appearance of the image shown -- even if the colors start way off. No correction at all. It is as if the tool does nothing. The color wheels below all this DO work however - it's just the eyedropper that doesn't do anything. This just cannot be Adobe's intention. I am convinced there must be some flaw in how I am selecting the tool itself. And the user guide - needless to say - is worthless in explaining the mechanics.
So very frustrating. This appears to be the only thing wrong with the program - nothing else seems amiss.
NOTE: To add insult to injury, this promised white/gray/black balance feature and the three-way-color corrector is the SOLE REASON I purchased the software. Funny.

Separate luminance and color white balance

I know this is a quite peculiar idea, but i roundtrip to Photoshop a lot just for this..
we all know white balance affects how contrast and luminance of different image areas are interpreted by the software, and at times, especially in low or mixed light, I find that the 'color wise correct' white balance is often different to the 'luminance wise best' one..
i hope this doesn't sound too tortuous, and i really don't know if it would be hard to implement, but it would definitely help a lot with image quality..

ok..
I usually do this for low light portraits or mixed light situation, but it really works for everything, and is quite similar to the "tone" part of topaz detail plugin, for example..
we always choose WB to have a pleasant or correct color rendition, right?
but if we are in black and white, different WB settings affect different areas of the image, lightwise..
and i find out that there is always a sweet spot, depending on the lighting, where noise is better and shadows are better distributed, and and that usually doesn't match to the color WB sweet spot..
this is the original auto wb image
and its bw equivalent
here wb is tweaked to better balance shadows and contrast
but you can see colors are way off..
to give a better idea..
original:
two wbs, obtained with layers color blend mode of original onto bw tweaked
i realize at this size the difference may look small, but it really changes the balance of light, especially with low light or underexposed or mixed light shots..
hope now it's more clear..
cheers
Tommaso

White balance off

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