White Images? Over exposed

I am using a 50mm fixed on the 5D III. I will take a about 100 images and then I get an over exposed image. Then I take a few more and I get another over exposed image. I have tried the eraser trick to clean the senor on the lens. Any other suggestions, hints, anyone else have this problem?
Thanks,
M

I haven't read any similar complaints at the forums I frequent but it does sound like either a lens problem or a communication problem between the body & lens. There are however several threads about issues with sharpness when using the 50 f1.2 L . Even the 50 f1.4 seems to get it's share of sharpness / build complaints.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

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Block white images over colour background

Possibly a simple question, but I can't find referance about it anywhere.
I'm trying to place a block white image of hand-drawn text (saved as a psd or/and tiff file with layers so that the surround is transparent) into indesign CS4. Placed over the top of a solid red colour. However when I do this, the image becomes transparent and invisible on the page.
I've also attempted to do this by importing a greyscale black version (in tiff format), and then converting the colour to either paper, or a white. But with no luck. This could be because indesign treats paper colour or white as transparent, but is there any way to get around this short of changing the image to bitmap and losing quality?

Should work fine with a psd file, strange... Try this:
Check if you have a clipping path into your file
if not:
- open you image in Photoshop
- select all you image (Ctrl+A or Cmd+A)
- Create a new document with transparent background (it should have the size of what you just copied)
- go back to your first image and with the magic wand select what will be white
- go back to the new doc,and paste
- Save to PSD file, do not forget to tick the add layers feature, eventually remove the profile if there is one
IN Indesign, import you file. you shouldn't have to modify your image to get what you want
Other idea (kind of old-fashionned but good trick)
-make your image negative with Ctrl or Cmd + I (black text, white background), you can then flatten the whole thing
-Convert your grey image to bitmap (1bit) with Threshold 50%
-save to tiff
In indesign, import the file, select you image unelect you rimage select it again with the white arrow then change the color to "paper" of whatever color you want.

Way Over Exposed

Hi,
I video ballet performances. I rented 3 Panasonic DVX 100bs for a series of performances last week. I am a rookie/hobbiest so I rented one camera a month ago to use and learn.
I shot the videos using the 30p scene setting (F3 on the dial). The results were that the colors were gorgeous but the whites (Tutus, lead male--all costumed in white) were over exposed in the stage lighting.
I white balanced all the cameras prior. I had the iris set to "Auto" but still the whites are very over exposed.
I have read the super-helpful posts here. (I love this discussion list). I tried using the 3 way color corrector but I can't see to reduce the over exposure significantly. I tried using the "broadcast safe" filter without any significant difference.
Any thoughts? I certainly can't reshoot. The performances are finished.
Thank you in advance for any advice.
Brock Fisher
San Diego

I received this email from Mr. Cookman. I post it here because it was so helpful to me. I didn't understand that the 3 way Color Corrector was so useful.
+"Apply the 3-way color corrector. Turn on range check, both luma and chroma. open the scopes.+
+Note the areas of blowout: the white and the red capes. Note the clipped luma in the scopes.+
+First off, grab the high slider (right side) and pull back until you get rid of the red zebras on the whites. Pull down the saturation until you lose the zebras on the capes. Finally pull the black level down a bit.+
+That's about the most you'll get out of FCP. your whites are indeed blown out. There is no more picture info to be retrieved."+
It was extremely gracious of you to help me with my project. I really appreciate it.
Brock Fisher
San Diego

Photo Stream white area over part of image

Hi,
I seldom use iCloud Shared Streams, but made one from Aperture 3.5. When I view it on my iPhone (iOS7.x) it has a white area over part of each image, for 'likes' and 'comments'.
How do I turn this off, so that I can see the photos instead of these text fields etc.?
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Hi,
I seldom use iCloud Shared Streams, but made one from Aperture 3.5. When I view it on my iPhone (iOS7.x) it has a white area over part of each image, for 'likes' and 'comments'.
How do I turn this off, so that I can see the photos instead of these text fields etc.?
Thanks for any pointers.

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My .nef files are from a Nikon D3 and the 'Lens Correction' delelope module in LR4 has been set up for my camera and lenses and the Camera Calibration module is set up for 2012 (Current).
Might this problem be solved with an upgrade or am I the only one having this problem?
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I've posted three different images here [http://www.leavalleyphotographic.co.uk/images.html] so you can see what is happening with a lot (not all) of my images with regard to being over exposed when using the 'Auto' function for exposure.
All of my images within LR4 are set as 2012 process and I've just upgraded to LR 4.1 RC2.
Any advice would be very welcome as this problem didn't occur with LR3.6
I've just noticed that if I revert the Process to 2003 the over exposed images become correctly exposed... curious...

Creating that blur using my brush my entire image changes too and becomes blurry. Not only that but the area I painted also becomes over exposed. What can I do am I missing something here all I want is to blur a section and not change the rest of the area

Creating that blur using my brush. When I paint the area, which highlights in red, I bring the clarity down to create more of that blur but what ends up happening is that my entire image changes too and becomes blurry. Not only that but the area I painted also becomes over exposed. What can I do am I missing something here all I want is to blur a section and not change the rest of the area I am painted by automatically becoming over exposed. Does anyone else have this problem that can help me?

Quote
Do you think I should try to find a cheap mobo to OC my current CPU? How about trying to find one (mobo) used? I fear that my only realistic choice will be to scrap the CPU and eventually buy a new mobo and CPU, but as the CPU was only released just under two years ago I would value being over to overclock it with a cheap enough mobo to last me another year or so.
Who knows what additional problems may be run into by switching mainboards & such. The OS would have to be reinstalled fresh, etc. Money wise, it wouldn't make a lot of sense to invest more into a system that is rather outdated. The small performance gain making the switch to another board using the CPU you have, just doesn't really make much sense, especially if what you have now is completing the tasks asked of it. Save up some money, set it aside for a future build. There are plenty of new platforms in the works.

T2i suddenly produces way over exposed images

About four years ago my friend bought the T2i with the 100 to 400 lens and the 1.4 extender. Until recently he loved that rig, but it suddenly started producing way over exposed images. He adjusted the exposure comp to two stops under exposed but still way to light. I should mention that he is a wildlife photographer and his equipment takes quite a beating. The camera has probably produced tens of thousands of images. He also is not on line. Any ideas that you may have that I can pass along to him? Thanks Chris

Ask your friend to manually set the Av to f/16... then while looking through the viewfinder, press the depth-of-field preview button. This is the small button located on the front of the camera body just slightly below the lens-release button. If the lens and camera are working correctly, the aperture blades should be fully-retracted while looking through the camera, but when you press the DoF Preview button, the blades should constrict down to the f/16 aperture you dialed in. The view through the viewfinder should suddenly become NOTICEABLY darker. If your lens aperture blades are not working, then it could explain why you'd have heavily over-exposed images even when dialing in exposure compensation. Try this with and without the extender. If the lens works as long as the teleextender is not being used (lens direct attached to body) then you've got a problem with the extender. It has electronic contacts that are supposed to pass communication through to the body. Contacts on the body-facing side should be gold coated plates. Contacts on the lens-facing side should be gold plated pins (which are springy -- make sure you can press them and they spring back out -- nothing should be jammed.) You can try cleaning but do NOT use anything abrassive (dont' use a pencil eraser, for example... that gold plating is thin and you'll take the plating off.) Clean only with a soft cloth. You can lightly moisten it if you want. It's also possible the fault is inside and not related to the contacts. Also try a different lens. If this only happens with this particular combination, then you've got a problem with the extender or lens or the extender. If it happens regardless of what lens you use then you probably have a problem with the camera body.

Nikon D700 Opens .6 to 1 stop over exposed in ACR 5.2

My D700 histogram shows the pix to be properly exposed but when I open them in ACR all images are .6 to 1 stop over exposed. While I can reduce exposure in ACR I have not had this problem in CS3 with my D100 & D200 cameras. What's the fix?

>The histogram you see on your camera is NOT based on your raw image directly, but on the JPEG preview created by the camera's built in software and to which adjustments are automatically applied.
What Ramón says is quite true, but you can compare the raw histogram to the camera histogram, With the Nikon D3 set to Adobe RGB and the standard Picture Control, I have found that the camera histogram and blinking highlights are slightly conservative but are generally reliable indicators of the raw histogram. Since the D3 and D700 have essentially the same image processing, I would think that this would also be true for the D700. (since inline images are not allowed in these forums, the message is hard to read since you have to click on the link to see the image. Ramón has figured out a way to have thumbnails with Pixentral, but I have not found a way to do this with my site, Smugmug)
Bill Janes, "ETTR and ACR" #3, 12 Nov 2008 6:37 am
One must be aware that the black and white camera histograms are luminance histograms which are strongly weighted towards the green luminance, whereas the ACR histogram is an RGB histogram and is similar to the color histograms of the camera superimposed on one another.
Both of these histograms reflect white balance. The red and blue channels may appear blown on the camera histogram or ACR histogram when in fact these channels are far from clipping in the raw file. Some users load a UniWB into the camera to get a better approximation of the raw channels.
Since the widest space in the camera is aRGB, the camera histogram may show saturation clipping with intact raw channels. It would be nice if Nikon would also provide ProPhotoRGB as a color space.

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Hi, I've notice that when I take outdoor pictures, mostly in "Auto" mode, using a fair amount of zoom that the image take is mostly white. This consistently occurs and is not a one-time event. I'm assuming that the images are severely over exposed. The environment is typically mid-day sunlight. Taking a picture of the same composition at much lower magnification gives expected results. I've been through the manual looking for different things to adjust without success. I've reset all settings to their defaults and the problem persists. I've tried different modes with similar results. I've had this camera for a few years now and I haven't experienced this problem before. Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

JakeInTexas,
When shooting outdoors in sunlight, the camera could be metering the exposure improperly because of the sunlight entering the lens at certain angles. A good way to counter this is by attaching the lens hood that came with the camera.
If this does not help, I would like to take a look at a sample image if you could upload one to this thread. It will greatly help us determine what else may be causing this.
If this is a time sensitive-matter, additional support options are available at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

I have some video shot by a freelancer that is very over exposed. Any suggestions?

I have tried Brightness and Contrast as well as curves and fast color corrector. Here is a link to part of the clip. http://https://vimeo.com/79122776

Your link is not working for me so I'll do my best to give you my thoughts.
I don't know how much you know about color correction/grading so please don't be offended if I appear to be stating anything you already know or that seems obvious.
Unfortunately, when a clip is over exposed and parts of the image are 'blown out' there is no way to get the information back... That is to say, it becomes unfixable. If it is overexposed, but not blown
out, than using 'curves' or even the effects you mentioned should do the trick; I'm assuming they are blown out though as you mentioned these things and are still asking the question... So:
As for blown out footage, I have a few suggestions:
Re-shoot.
Depending on the type of production the footage is involved in, and the nature of the image itself (like I said, the link doesn't work so I can't see what is 'over exposed') you can try to use the blown out parts of the image in a stylistic effect... Perhaps there is some effect you can go for that will turn those over exposed pieces into something that looks like it's suppose to be that way. (This is very hard, but has saved me in a tight spot before on a music video; granted, music videos are so much easier to edit than almost anything else.)
Magic Bullet Looks has a 'shoulder' effect (you could also just do it yourself with curves if you don't have MBL) that just take the brighter whites of an image and brings them down a bit without effecting the midtones or blacks. This helps make the blow-outs less noticable as their isn't so much contrast.
Similiar to number '2' but have to throw it in because it could help... With an over exposed shot all the highlights of your image will be blown out and thus 'pure white.' You can use the 'key' effect to target the blown out pieces of your footage and perhaps replace it with a color, texture, or image that is less noticable/more suitable?
Best of luck to you! If you repost a working link to the video I could give you some thoughts more specific to your footage! Cheers Robin!

Over exposed background footage...can I fix it?

I recently shot a Celebrity softball game and I have a clip of video where the person I am interviewing is exposed pretty good in the foreground but the 2 guys standing right behind them with white t-shirts seem to be really bright (their shirts). The background including the clear blue sky is really over exposed to the point where you cannot even see the sky. I had my zebra bars on, on the camera. I was shooting inside of a baseball stadium that had spots where it was shade and other spots of the field where it was bright. The sun was behind me in this screen grab shot. I have been fooling around with CC trying to get a happy balance but having a hard time. I am going to include a screen grab so you can see what I am talking about below. So basically I want to try to tone down the brightness of the background but keeping the talent exposed correctly. I have my scopes up and have been monitoring the levels as I go. I selected broadcast safe as a filter along with the CC 3 way filter.
thanks for your help!
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h281/purnc1906/kylepic.jpg

As far as I can tell there's not much you can do. Your screen consists as a whole entity. Change one aspect and you change them all. The only way you're going to improve the image is to seperate the foreground from the background and work from there.
You might try layering and experimenting with masks. It's not gonna be great. Plus my experience with overblown whites is that they never get much better even with correction.
Watch DV record. It tends to be hot if your are used to shooting analogue. I set my camera zebra at 90% for that reason.
However, your subject's face is properly exposed. Many times unless you manipulate lighting during the shoot, you'll have exposure problems like this. Plus you have African-American folks wearing white. That's a bear. Anytime someone with a dark complexion wears white, you'll fight the choice between properly exposing their facial features while trying to avoid glowing clothing.
I used to work with an African American news anchor who insisted on wearing white because she said that she looked good in white. Well she did, but the human eye is much more complex than the camera eye. The camera hates those huge contrasts.
Try the 3 way color corrector and try to bring down the whites, but you're not going to get much improvement. Sorry.
Of course, I know enough to be dangerous so someone out there may have another idea.

Xperia Z1 Camera Issues - over exposing

Hi; I'm new to the Xperia Z1. Have always owned Samsung. Enjoying the Xperia but disappointed in the camera which when you read is supposed to be so awesome. Every picture I take has a white cloud on the bottom like it's over exposed. I haven't touched the original settings. Should I and to what.
Thank you for any help you can give me.
CW23

You can try to use manual mode and change the resolution,white balance and maybe enable image stabilizer.
All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us - J.R.R. Tolkien

MacBook - Black & white image on TV

Please can somebody help with connecting my MacBook to a Sony trinitron TV
I have a new MacBook and I'm using the following set up to connect to a 5 year old Sony TV -
Apple mini-DVI to video converter into S-video lead connected to S-video to SCART adaptor - problem is that I only get a black & white image.
Can anybody help = please?
13" white MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Hi essman,
As S-Video cables send their chroma (colour) and luminance (brightness) signals separately it sounds as though the problem may be found either in your S-Video cable or in one of the S-Video connectors. If only the luminance pins/wire was working correctly your video signal would appear to be in black and white.
To ensure that the SCART adapter is not the problem however I would recommend testing with a composite video cable (also known as an RCA.) With that cable the entire video signal is sent over the one pin, so you either get video or you don't. If over that connection it's still black and white, I would say the blame lies with the SCART adapter.
Hope this helps!
Jason

Iphoto 9.5.1 displays only raw photos correctly. If I correct redeye or touch up a photo I get white boxes over the eyes(if correcting redeye) or the thumbnail and photo turns mostly white. Note: I have an NVIDIA card.

Do you remember the days when Apple wrote robust code ? The latest updates have not been great.
Maybe the programers are outsourced to a foriegn country now or Noobs out of school ?
It looks like someone isn't paying attention to the editing layer... I write code. and when you edit an image you store the update in another layer. The method enables you to easily undo edits.   I "upgraded" to 10.9.1 and was forced to update iPhoto.    After I uploaded photos from my camera I noticed redeye reduction results in just white squares over the eyes. I also noticed issues if I attempt any photo edit funcition in iPhoto.
This means to me that iPhoto 's editor is saving video from the wrong memory location.
I have a NVIDIA card because I write CUDA applications on my Mac. An NVIDIA card enables me to write CUDA and OpenCL apps.
Here's what happens if I attempt to straighten an image:
Origianal:
After Edit:
Here's what happens if I attempt to use the Redeye reduction tool:
As you can see Mavericks may have made some improvements but overall it does not get the job done as it used to.
I am willing to bet that your graphics code has devolved into ATI centric code.
I booted into macos 7.5.1 and the issue with the same hardware older operating system and apps works fine.    I just wish I never deleted my 10.6.8 install. 10.6.8 was the most stable on the MacPro.   Everything worked.     From 10.7 up I've noticed a decline in dependability.
Can you please fix this or design a work around ?    Switching over to an ATI graphics card is NOT a good answer.
Also I noticed Cinebench R15 benchmarks are higher in 7.5.1 verses 10.9.1

Where in that other topic is the manufacturer of the graphic card or even a graphic card mentioned.? You may have known what kind of card you had but we're not mind readers.
Since it appears to be a incompatibility between that particular card, Mavericks and iPhoto you should keep telling Apple about it by contacting them via
http://www.apple.com/feedback/iphoto.html
http://www.apple.com/feedback/macosx.html
http://www.apple.com/feedback/macbookpro.html
http://www.apple.com/feedback/mac-pro.html
whichever is appropriate for your particular situation. It's the squeaky wheel that gets the attention.
OT

When importing from my camera or file in Lightroom 5 my pictures are over-exposed by 1-2 stops, while they are well exposed on the camera-screen. How to get the 'right-exposed pictures on the screen?

When importing from my camera or file in Lightroom 5 my pictures are over-exposed by 1-2 stops, while they are well exposed on the camera-screen. How to get the 'right-exposed pictures on the screen?

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White Images? Over exposed

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