Whre is the Configuration Button? HP 1220c

Hello everybody,
I switched to 10.5.1 and now tried to print on my HP Deskjet 1220c. Of course it worked but the colours a awful. So I tried find the Configuration Button (in the printer window). It was there in 10.4 but now it's gone. And I can't find any possibility to send an instruction to the HP Deskjet 1220c.
Where are these menues now?
Greetings from Heidelberg
sailor1810

Do you mean the HP Utility? If so, you can launch the open the printer's queue from Print & Fax Prefs; once the printer's queue is opened, use the Printer Utility menu item in the Printer menu. The printer needs to have been added with the Epson driver, not the Gutenprint driver, for the utility to work.
You can also check the /Library/Printers/hp/Utilities folder; that's where the utility is.
Hope this helps.

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How do you set up your editing machine in terms of disks for maximum performance and reliability? (SSD's are left out here.)
This is a question that often arises and all too often one sees that initial settings are really suboptimal. These rules are intended to help you decide how to setup your disks to get the best response times. Of course the only disks in an editing machine must be 7200 RPM types or faster. No GREEN disks at all.
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Rule 3: Use at least 3 different physical disks on an editing machine, one for OS/programs, one for media and one for pagefile/scratch/renders. Even on a notebook with one internal drive it is easy to accomplish this by using a dual e-SATA to Express card connector. That gives you an additional two e-SATA connections for external disks.
Rule 4: Spread disk access across as many disks as you have. If you have OS & programs on disk C:, set your pagefile on another disk. Also set your pagefile to a fixed size, preferably somewhere around 1.5 times your physical memory.
Rule 5: Turn off index search and compression. Both will cause severe performance hits if you leave them on.
Rule 6: If the fill rate on any of your SATA disks goes over 60-70% it is time to get a larger or an additional disk.
Rule 7: Perform regular defrags on all of your disks. For instance, you can schedule this daily during your lunch break.
Rule 8: Keep your disks cool by using adequate airflow by means of additional fans if needed. You can use SMART to monitor disk temperatures, which should be under 35 degrees C at all times and normally hover around 20-24 C, at least in a properly cooled system.
Rule 9: If people want raid, the cheapest way is to use the on-board IHCR or Marvell chip, but it places a relatively high burden on the CPU. The best way is a hardware controller card, preferably based on the IOP348 chip. Areca ARC and ADAPTEC come to mind. 3Ware uses it's own chipset and though not bad, they are not in the same league as the other two. Promise and the like in the budget range are no good and a complete waste of money. Expect to spend around $ 800 plus for a good controller with 12 connectors internally and 4 e-SATA connectors. Important to consider in a purchasing decision is whether the on-board cache memory can be expanded from the regular 256/512 MB to 2 or even 4 GB. Be aware that 2 GB cache can be relatively cheap, but the 4 GB version extremely costly ($ 30 versus $ 300). For safety reasons it is advisable to include a battery backup module (BBM).
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==============================================================================
For AMD setups, disregard the mentions of sockets and the like but the general recommendations still hold.
When you need a new PC for editing purposes, you basically have three choices:
1. Buy an off the shelf system from companies like HP or Dell.
2. Buy a custom built PC from a specialist company, like http://www.guygraphics.com/
3. Build it yourself.
Solution 1 can offer good prices if you stick to their standard configurations and it is easy. But remember that these companies make their profit not on the base system, but on all the options they offer. If you follow their recommendations and upgrade memory, hard disks, or choose a better video card or a faster processor, they steal you blind.
I have nothing against HP or Dell, I have bought systems from them, but usually that was because of a great offer with all the features I needed at the time and applied to notebooks, desktops and servers.
Solution 2 is usually costly, but you get what you pay for. You get the expertise of the seller/builder in selecting the right components, he builds it, installs the software and tests it before delivery. The downside is that often these specialists have their own favorite hardware, like Matrox or Canopus and try to get that into the deal, which increases the price.
Solution 3 is usually the most cost effective and the most flexible, but the largest drawback is that you need to choose all the right components, to be aware of potential incompatibilities and build it yourself. Many see that as a major stumbling block, but really it is not difficult. Another drawback is support. You have to do it yourself.
The first steps to take are twofold:
1. What material do you want to edit and how do you want to deliver the results?
To put it bluntly, if you want to edit material, recorded with a mobile phone, a digital still camera, recorded off the internet from YouTube or similar, recorded from TV, grabbed from the screen, encoded with any unsuitable codec like DivX, XVid, or the like, or ripped from DVD, and that is your major purpose, no need to read this further, just use a consumer application like Windows Movie Maker or Magix for your editing.
This guide is for people who use a VIDEO camera and want to edit that.
So for people with video cameras, what is the main format you use? DV, HDV, DVCPROHD, AVCHD, XDCAMHD, other?
Do you deliver for the web, on BR or DVD or all of those?
2. What is your budget?
Once you have answered these two basic questions for yourself can you start the selection process.
It will require you to read quite a lot about PC's. Good general sources of information are:
http://www.tomshardware.com and http://anandtech.com
As a general rule of thumb you can say that the minimum requirements in terms of CPU, despite what Adobe mentions as minimum requirements, are:
1. For DV: Core 2 Duo
2. For AVCHD: i7 with HT or dual Xeon's 55xx
3. For other HD formats: Core 2 Quad
It generally does not pay to get the fastest CPU, unless you have an unlimited budget. Their price/performance is usually not the best and you will find a step down gives you nearly the same performance at a much lower price. And there is always overclocking, but I'll come back to that later. To give an example, the Core 2 Extreme QX6850 is currently more than 4 times as expensive as the Core 2 Quad Q9550, but does not deliver any noteworthy performance improvement. And both are quad cores.
To help you narrow down your choices, it is worthwhile to have a look at these charts:
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/desptop-cpu-charts-q3-2008/Cinema-4D-Release- 10,835.html
Likely a new version for Q1-2009 will come out shortly.
In deciding on your shortlist, keep in mind that for video editing FSB speed and cache size are very important. First look at FSB speed (the higher the better, so if you have the choice between 1066 or 1333 FSB, always choose the higher one if it fits your budget). Next narrow down your choices by selecting the CPU with the largest cache. 6 MB L3 cache is better than 3 MB.
Let's assume that after studying all these sites and reading a lot about CPU's, you have made a shortlist of possible candidates, that fit the minimum requirements indicated above, you have to identify what socket the CPU uses. Is it a 775 pin socket (Core2), a 1366 pin (i7 or Xeon 55xx) or a 771 Xeon 54xx or lower (old generation) socket. This will largely determine your choice of motherboard and memory type you need and as a consequence the case and cooling you need.
In general the chipset on a 775 mobo uses DDR2, dual channel memory, which is widely available and relatively cheap. On a 771 mobo the memory used is FBDIMM (fully buffered DDR2) with ECC (error correction) which is much harder to get and significantly more expensive. On a 1366 mobo the memory is triple channel DDR3 which is faster than DDR2 but also more expensive. For Xeon 55xx based boards memory used is FBDIMM's triple channel with ECC, which is hard to find and costly.
The main difference between DDR2 and DDR3 is that dual channel requires two populated memory banks for dual channel operation, whereas triple channel DDR3 requires three banks populated. That is the reason that mobo's with DDR2 usually come with 4 or 8 GB RAM and DDR3 mobo's with 6 or 12 GB RAM. DDR3 is faster (at the same specs) than DDR2. To complicate matters further, most 775 mobo's offer 4 memory slots, 1366 mobo's usually offer 6 memory slots and 1366 dual socket Xeon boards usually offer 12 memory slots.
I see you are losing interest, this is getting way too complicated. Well, I'm sorry but if you want to make an informed decision on what your next system should be, you need to understand these basics or buy a Dell or HP or even Alienware (a Dell subsidiary). And I continue to bore you with these technicalities in order to help you make a good purchasing decision.
When selecting a mobo for the CPU you have selected, read tests on TomsHardware or AnandTech to help you find the good performers that have the right set of features for your job. Good brands are ASUS, Abit, Gigabyte and MSI for single socket use, for dual socket the best one to check out is SuperMicro or possibly Tyan.
Pay attention to the features a board offers, like dual NIC's (network interface controller), dual firewire, number of SATA ports, chipset used for the SATA controller, IHCR and/or Marvell raid capability, on board sound, etcetera. Pay special attention to the board layout, where the PCI-e slots are located in relation to PCI slots. I have once built a machine where I knew I had to use a PCI firewire board and due to the location of the PCI-e slot and the size of the video card (dual slot size) the PCI slot was no longer accessible. It caused me quite some headaches to find a PCI-x firewire replacement board, because I had forgotten to have a close look at the mobo layout. Just a warning, so you don't fall into the same trap I did.
Ok, we have now decided on the CPU and the mobo. Let's have a look at memory.
General rule: Get as much as you can and don't spend it on higher clock capable versions! You will gain more from slower memory in large quantities, than from faster but less memory, even with 32 bit apps like CS4. One of the side effects of more memory is less use of a pagefile, which is far slower than RAM, so even if the application can not access more than 4 GB, your pagefile use will be much lower with more memory installed.
Memory is offered with various ratings. Often in marketing jargon these are dubbed as PC3-8500 or PC3-10600 or PC3-12800 up to 16000. This is all hype. The price tag increases significantly with higher numbers but the performance gain is negligent, in the order of 1 or 2 %. Your best bet is to get memory that is suitable for the FSB speed you have. If you have a FSB of 1333, use memory for 1333 FSB (10600), if you have a FSB of 1066, get 1066 capable memory (8500), it is a complete waste of money to get 1600 capable memory if your FSB does not support it. What is important however is to get the best timings you can find.
The lower the CAS latency, the better. Also look at tRAS (ROW-ACTIVE-TIME) results. These timing figures may give you better performance than spending money on higher clocked memory. On my system I have 6-6-6-18 timings for memory (even when overclocked by 35% and without increasing the voltage), which gives far better results than 9-9-9-27 timings. BTW, timings are usually measured in CAS, RAS-to-CAS, tRP and tRAS sequence. The lower these numbers, the better it is.
In general get at least 4 GB on a 775 or 6 GB on a 1366 mobo, but you may benefit from doubling these figures if you are multitasking, for instance having PR, AE and EN open for dynamic linking, or changing to PS for text or still manipulation.
Next: Storage. I point you to a previous guide I made which gives you the basics about disk setup:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/427772
Next cases. I suggest to only look at big towers or server towers, depending on the mobo of your choice. For dual CPU sockets a server tower is almost always a must, decause of the use of e-ATX size mobo's and the requirement for specialized cooling, often using an air duct, which is only available in server cases. SuperMicro is a prime supplier and my personal favorite in terms of build quality, expansion capabilities and reliability. Be aware however that the power supply in those cases are pretty noisy. For single CPU solutions there are many choices, often based on looks. What is much more important however is the expansion room and the airflow in those cases. You don't want to pimp your editing machine with LED illuminated fans, transparent sides and the like. It needs to be functional. Antec, CoolerMaster, Lian Li and ThermalTake are common brands and worth having a look at. Looking at smaller cases with a sexy look will often lead to disappointment in the future, since they often lack the capability to add additional disk drives or burners internally or get so full with equipment, that cooling is going to be a real problem. Do take into consideration that you may need 1 or 2 5.25" slots for burners.
Warning: COOLING is essential for reliability and longevity of your system. We'll get to that in a minute.
If you work long form projects, have a multitude of projects or other situations that may require a large number of disks in use or for backup, it is worth to have a look at cases that offer SAS backplanes and (hot-)swappable disk cages. Often on various sites you may find entries to case modding, where you can find other disk cages that allow you to use four 3.5" disks in the space for two 5.25" slots. In my case I had 6 3.5" slots as is was delivered. I have modded my case to now contain 14 3.5" disks just on the front with room for another disk. To avoid disappointment in the future and a lot of work of rebuilding your PC into a new chassis, plan ahead for the storage requirements you may have in the next years. If you start out with 4
disks now, but expect to use 8 next year, be sure that they fit in, even if it requires different disk cages. Make sure that there is adequate cooling for the disks in the disk cages, preferably with 80 or 120 mm fans in front of the disks and use a replacable dust filter.
By this stage we have found the CPU, mobo, memory, hard disks and case. Time to have a look at video cards.
General: CS4 will not significantly benefit from a high end video card. The marketing hype wants us to believe that the nVidia
Quadro CX will give enormous benefits for encoding H.264, but that is just what it is: "Hype".
For general NLE work you are better served with more CPU power, more memory and more hard disks and possibly a better raid controller with more cache than with a video card that costs you at least $ 1 K extra in comparison to very good cards. Better spend the money where you benefit from it. SLI or CrossFire is a complete waste of money and only applies to gamers. Everybody serious about video editing will NEVER install a game on his machine so forget about those things.
If you make sure that you have at least 512 MB on a decent modern video card, you will be hard pressed to see significant differences in performance. ATI Radeon 4xxx and nVidia GT 2xx series are all well up to the task for editing. If you use GPU intensive plug-ins like Colorista or Magic Bullet you may be wise to choose for the more powerful versions of these cards, since these plug-ins are very demanding when rendering.
These video cards get very hot in practice and especially under load. If your case is very full or you have another card in the next PCI-e slot, reducing airflow to the video card, you may consider exchanging the stock cooler on the video card by a special cooler like the Accelero Twin Turbo from Arctic Cooling to keep temperatures in hand.
Now go to http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp and use the PSU calculator to roughly decide what your power supply needs to deliver in terms of Wattage. I strongly suggest to get the PRO version (it is cheap!) but it saves you from fatal mistakes. A PSU (power supply unit) is one of the most overlooked and neglected components in a PC and very often the cause for all kinds of mysterious faults, hangs, BSOD's, restarts etcetera. Let me tell what nearly happened to me when building a new PC. I had checked the power supply requirements, checked reviews online and found one PSU that appealed to me, based on the reviews. It was a Zalman 1000 W. Great, looks good and in stock at an attractive price. I then got the pro version and rechecked, with the extra info on the various rails. The Zalman did not have enough power on the 5V rails that I needed. So I had to change the PSU, otherwise I would have been in for a lot of strange, unexplainable and foreall unexpected hangs, restarts and the like, apart from the reduced life expectancy of the PSU.
Now, we're finally getting somewhere. Only cooling is left, then all the hardware components have been chosen.
CPU cooling: Again check sites like AnandTech. They regularly perform extensive tests on CPU coolers. Be aware that test results differ widely from site to site, but some of the names to consider are Noctua, Scythe and Thermaltake. It is best to choose a vertical heatsink cooler with 'push-pull' configuration, meaning one fan in front to push the cooling air in to the heatsink and the other fan at the rear to pull out the air. That generally delivers the best cooling performance. These things can be quite heavy so they are not suggested for LAN parties. Install it and leave your PC where it is, otherwise the weight may damage your mobo. When installing the heatsink be very sparing in applying cooling paste (Arctic silver is a good
suggestion).
If you have followed my advise in getting a big tower you have room for additional fans in the case. There may not always be holes to attach screws for mounting, but what also works quite effectively is using heavy duty double sided tape to attach fans to a side, on the PSU (if it is mounted at the bottom of the case). Scythe has some very good fans that give a large airflow at reasonable RPM's and low sound levels.
Once you have built your system you need to decide what OS to use. 32 or 64 bit? The point seems moot now. 64 bit Vista is your best option currently. No driver problems anymore, somewhat decent stability and the use of all your installed memory. Windows 7 is only a RC currently, so I would not advise that on a production machine, but on another machine I would definitely try it. It is as stable as Vista is now, but drivers are still somewhat lacking. XP is out, despite the best stability on a clean and mean system, due to the 32 bit nature.
After installing the OS, first check your device manager. Make sure that all your devices are working and there are no warnings. Then update Windows, drivers and other system utilities. Then check your hardware, using CPU-Z and HWMonitor, check the cooling and voltages. Your disks should be below 35 C at all times. Then tune your Bios. Once you have completed these steps, proceed with installing your software. Start with essential system tools like Process Explorer, Beyond Compare, etc. and then continue with tuning Windows, removing sh*t you never use on an editing machine, like MSN or Games, setting unneeded services to manual, disabling Windows Defender and installing Symantec Endpoint protection if you have it, and only then start installing CS4 and related programs.
When all is well, you may consider to start overclocking. TomsHardware and AnandTech have published several articles on how to do that. If you do it right you will not lose stability and may get significant performance gains. It does require more attention to the temperatures in your case.
When I recently built a new system, my first PassMark (a common benchmark testing program) score was around 3600. After finetuning the system, optimizing Windows and overclocking, I got a PassMark score of 4733.8, which even after a month is still number two in the worldwide ranking.
For my system specs, look below, maybe you can derive some ideas from it for your next configuration:
http://www.millcon.nl/Harm/PCResults.jpg
I hope this has been informative and that you can profit from my remarks.
I'm sorry this was so long and taxed your patience to the extreme.
Further suggestions and enhancements are welcome.
================================================================================
Yes, I'm going to tax your patience again. This is a guide to setup Vista 64 for NLE work, well it actually applies to any kind of work, but NLE machines may profit more than an Office/MSN machine. One caveat: What I suggest here is a lean and mean machine that is mainly dedicated to NLE work.
First: It is always best to start with a clean install and a complete reformat of the disk. That will ensure that your registry is clean and leaves no leftovers from a previous install. Do not partition the drive, format the whole disk as one.
After installation has completed, first select Control Panel and Personalize. Select Change Desktop icons and ensure that at least Computer is selected. You can choose other icons as well if you want to. I have all 5 selected.
Next check Device Manager (right click This Computer, select Properties and then Device Manager) that you have no problems with drivers for any of your hardware. If there are any yellow exclamation symbols, solve these issues first by having Vista search for drivers and if it comes back with the message that no drivers could be found, get the latest 64 bit driver from the internet for this device.
Once Device Manager has no more problems, go to Windows update and install all critical updates. Nothing more at this moment. After installation and rebooting, again check Device Manager for problems. There should be none. Otherwise get on the internet again and reinstall the latest Vista 64 drivers. Next right chick This Computer and select Manage and go to Event Viewer. Open the Windows Logs and click on System. Scroll through the events and check out any errors or warnings you see. Search the Microsoft Technet for solutions. This is the link to the very informative Technet site to help you solve any issues you may have: Microsoft Technet
Next go to Control Panel, select Programs and Features and select turn Windows features on or off. You may not need anymore than these Windows Features and possibly less, for instance if you don't use a network printer. Also this may be a good moment to turn off User Account Control via Control Panel/Security Settings.
Next go to Vista Services and use the instructions and the table shown to modify the services, so only those are started that are needed in your situation. Anything not needed will only increase boot time and will consume resources, placing a higher overhead on the system than needed.
After rebooting, update all your drivers if you have not already done so. For instance, if you have an ATI card, download the latest drivers, but remember you can do without the Catalyst Control Center. Their drivers are typically denoted by y.m (year, month) so currently the latest is version 9.5
Now go to Control Panel, System and select Advanced system settings, select Visual Effects and select Adjust for best performance, apply and then select the Advanced tab, click on Performance settings, select the Advanced tab, Select Adjust for best performance of programs and then change the Virtual memory. Setup your pagefile with a custom size with equal numbers for Initial and Maximum size on another drive than your C disk and set the C drive to No paging file. If you have read my Storage rules for an editing rig guide, you know you need a fixed size of around 1 to 1.5 times installed memory, unless you have lots of RAM, then you can easily go lower.
Reboot and right click on This Computer, select Manage and select Disk Management. Select drive C, right click Properties and make sure that Index this drive for faster searching and Compress this drive to save disk space are both turned off. Click Disk Cleanup and clean what can be deleted. Repeat these steps for all of your drives. Next go to the Tools tab and select Defragment Now and defrag all drives. While you are at the Disk Defragment window, setup a daily defragging schedule, for instance during your lunch break. That will keep your disks optimized.
This will make sure that the space previously occupied by the pagefile on the C drive is reclaimed and that the new pagefile on another drive is not fragmented and at the very beginning of the drive in the fastest location (at least if the disk was newly formatted and not used).
If you haven't done so yet, completely turn off the Sidebar and do not have it autostart.
No application has been installed yet, so it is time to start with some essential utilities.
The first thing I do is turning off Windows Defender and install Symantec Endpoint Protection.
Next I install Ccleaner. A very handy freeware tool to keep your system and the registry clean and to remove or disable registry based auto startup programs.
The next one to install is the Sysinternals Suite and most notably Process Explorer, Process Monitor and Autoruns. Depending on your use, other utilities in the Suite may be nice to install as well. Installation is done by extracting the relevant files to the C:\Windows directory. Run Process Explorer once and in the Options menu select Replace Task Manager.
Other utilities I install (but of course you may have different favorites) are Beyond Compare, HWMonitor, SpeedFan, SnagIt and 1ClickPCFix
You are now ready to install your regular software. After installation, registration and activation of all your software use Ccleaner, Tools to check for unnecessary Startup entries in the registry. Disable or remove them. Next check your registry by scanning for issues and fix selected issues. Defragment all your disks again and make a restore point.
If you want to get rid of the ridiculously large shortcut arrow at this moment, go to this site: Remove Shortcut Arrow and follow Method 1.
Reboot and you are ready to go with a hopefully much faster and efficient Vista machine.
If you encounter difficulties and have problems that want to ask about on the forum, be prepared to include a screenshot from Process Explorer and either HWMonitor or Speedfan and a link to DXDIAG.txt
Thanks for your patience and I hope you have found some tips and tricks to improve performance.

In general theory, one now has the Edit button for their posts, until someone/anyone Replies to it. I've had Edit available for weeks, as opposed to the old forum's ~ 30 mins.
That, however, is in theory. I've posted, and immediately seen something that needed editing, only to find NO Replies, yet the Edit button is no longer available, only seconds later. Still, in that same thread, I'd have the Edit button from older posts, to which there had also been no Replies even after several days/weeks. Found one that had to be over a month old, and Edit was still there.
Do not know the why/how of this behavior. At first, I thought that maybe there WAS a Reply, that "ate" my Edit button, but had not Refreshed on my screen. Refresh still showed no Replies, just no Edit either. In those cases, I just Reply and mention the [Edit].
Also, it seems that the buttons get very scrambled at times, and Refresh does not always clear that up. I end up clicking where I "think" the right button should be and hope for the best. Seems that when the buttons do bunch up they can appear at random around the page, often three atop one another, and maybe one way the heck out in left-field.
While I'm on a role, it would be nice to be able to switch between Flattened and Threaded Views on the fly. Each has a use, and having to go to Options and then come back down to the thread is a very slow process. Jive is probably incapable of this, but I can dream.
Hunt

How to change the behaviour of the Cancel-Button of SSO-Login-Page (Forms)?

Hi Folks,
we use SSO-Login to authenticate users using Forms. How do I change the URL which is opened when a user clicks on the cancel button on the SSO Login page?
In the formsweg.cfg file there is a parameter named ssoCancelUrl, but if I define it, it doesn't work anyway. Seems like it has something to do with ssoDynamicResourceCreate, but I don't exactly understand what.
Can't I simply change the URL which is opened (globally), when a user hits the cancel button on any SSO-Loginpage.
Thanks in advance.
Regards.

Exactly this does not work! Please watch my settings:
Global Setting in formsweb.cfg
# Single Sign-On OID configuration parameter: indicates whether we allow
# dynamic resource creation if the resource is not yet created in the OID.
ssoDynamicResourceCreate=false
# Single Sign-On parameter: URL to redirect to if ssoDynamicResourceCreate=false
ssoErrorUrl=
# Single Sign-On parameter: Cancel URL for the dynamic resource creation DAS page.
ssoCancelUrl=
# Single Sign-On parameter: indicates whether the url is protected in which
# case mod_osso will be given control for authentication or continue in
# the FormsServlet if not. It is false by default. Set it to true in an
# application-specific section to enable Single Sign-On for that application.
ssoMode=false
App-Specific settings in formsweb.cfg
[proz]
envFile=proz.env
form=proz.fmx
title=proz
separateFrame=true
width=1280
height=960
ssoMode=true
ssoDynamicResourceCreate=false
ssoCancelURL=http://machinename:port/zugangsportal/
otherparams=useSDI=yes P_SERVER_URL=machinename:port P_REP_SERVERNAME=machinename_proz ZP_TARGET_ID=%ZP_TARGET_ID%
When I now access http://machinename:port/forms/frmservlet?config=proz I got redirected to the SSO-Login-Page but the Cancel-Button still links to Middletier Home. Why?
Regards.

Using a mac OSX and a logitech M-UAG120 mouse, how do I use the wheel button to open a link in a new tab (but not switch to it)? Can't type a key in box.

In the logitech control center I've clicked on my mouse (tilt wheel mouse), clicked on 'wheel button', and in the dropdown menu selected keystroke. Under 'configure keystroke', there's a "type a key..." box, and to the right, there's a "choose any modifier" selection.
On this web page, http://www.accessfirefox.org/Firefox_Keyboard_and_Mouse_Shortcuts.html, the instruction for 'open link in new tab' is Cmd+Return Cmd+Click
On this page, https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/mouse-shortcuts-perform-common-tasks, the instruction for 'open link in new tab' is command+Left-click link Middle-click link
I cannot figure out how to type these in correctly to make the function work.
Help please?
Thank you all.

I do not know what the standard setting is. In my Mac system preferences, when I access the Logitech Control Center, I click on "wheel button" (button 3), and get a drop down menu with the following choices:
Nothing 
Click 
Advanced Click 
Cruise 
Horizontal Scroll 
Keystroke 
Modifiers 
Open Application 
Open Document 
Open Folder 
Open Web Page 
Back 
Forward 
Cover Flow 
Display Control 
Eject CD 
End Session 
Expose' Dashboard & Spaces 
One-Touch Search 
Quick Look 
Screen Capture 
Sound Control 
Switch Application 
Zoom
I'm lost here. The mouse used to do it, then I needed to unplug it, and when I set it up again, the wheel button is inert when used on a link.

Is there a capability to save/export the time capsule settings file when using the iphone/ipad airport utility. the "file" button does not exist on the latest airport utility app.

is there a capability to save/export the new airport 2TB time capsule settings file when using the iphone/ipad airport utility. set-up wasn't a problem but the "file" button does not exist on the latest airport utility app v6.3 to save the configuration file.

the "file" button does not exist on the latest airport utility app v6.3 to save the configuration file.
Sounds like you are a bit confused with version numbers.
Latest AirPort Utility version for the iPhone / iPad is 1.3.3. There is no option or capability to export/import settings on the iOS version(s) of AirPort Utility.....although you could take a series of screen shots and save them for future reference.
AirPort Utility 6.3.x is found on a Mac.....not on iPhone / iPad. Export and Import options are found under the File menu in 6.3.x.

Everytime I start up my Mac mini I'll be able to use it only for a little while then the beach ball appears and it won't let me do anything I have to keep forcing it to turn off by holding the power button can someone help me?

I have no external devices connected to my Mac mini but still everytime I use it after about half hour to an hour in whatever I'm using wether it's the Internet or iPhoto or iTunes the beach ball appears and I cannot get it to stop I always have to press and hold the power button and force it to switch off I then do a safe reboot and it starts up again fine but same thing again after a certain amount of time it will freeze. I have also had on some occasions a bright white screen with a folder and a flashing question mark appear but it's not because of any external devices as they have all been removed please can someone help me as I have no idea why this keeps happening to my computer and I'm worried that there's something seriously wrong it's only about 6 months old and I have no experience in dealing with computers ??

EtreCheck version: 2.1.8 (121)
Report generated 13 February 2015 15:33:46 GMT
Download EtreCheck from http://etresoft.com/etrecheck
Click the [Click for support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Click for details] links for more information about that line.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
 Mac mini (Late 2012) (Technical Specifications)
 Mac mini - model: Macmini6,1
 1 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2-core
 4 GB RAM Upgradeable
 BANK 0/DIMM0
 2 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
 BANK 1/DIMM0
 2 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
 Bluetooth: Good - Handoff/Airdrop2 supported
 Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Video Information: ℹ️
 Intel HD Graphics 4000
 LG TV spdisplays_1080p
System Software: ℹ️
 OS X 10.10.2 (14C109) - Time since boot: 0:11:35
Disk Information: ℹ️
 APPLE HDD ST500LM012 disk0 : (500.11 GB)
 EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
 Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / : 499.25 GB (398.54 GB free)
 Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
USB Information: ℹ️
 Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
 Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
 Apple, Inc. IR Receiver
Thunderbolt Information: ℹ️
 Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Configuration files: ℹ️
 /etc/sysctl.conf - Exists
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
 Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
 /Applications/AVG AntiVirus.app
 [loaded] com.avg.Antivirus.OnAccess.kext (2015.0 - SDK 10.8) [Click for support]
Launch Agents: ℹ️
 [running] com.avg.Antivirus.gui.plist [Click for support]
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
 [loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [Click for support]
 [running] com.avg.Antivirus.infosd.plist [Click for support]
 [running] com.avg.Antivirus.services.plist [Click for support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
 iTunesHelper Application (/Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunesHelper.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
 Silverlight: Version: 5.1.30514.0 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
 FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 16.0.0.305 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
 Flash Player: Version: 16.0.0.305 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
 QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
 Default Browser: Version: 600 - SDK 10.10
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
 Flash Player [Click for support]
Time Machine: ℹ️
 Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
 5% WindowServer
 1% AVG
 0% AppleSpell
 0% fontd
 0% cloudpaird
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
 215 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent
 125 MB avgd
 107 MB Safari
 90 MB Messages
 69 MB WindowServer
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
 171 MB Free RAM
 1.68 GB Active RAM
 1.53 GB Inactive RAM
 637 MB Wired RAM
 1.34 GB Page-ins
 2 MB Page-outs
Diagnostics Information: ℹ️
 Feb 13, 2015, 03:20:28 PM Self test - passed
 Feb 6, 2015, 08:08:07 PM /Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/Kernel_2015-02-06-200807_[redacted].panic [Click for details]

My Ipad (4?) screen went black but I can hear it. I tried hitting both the sstart button and sleep button for 10 seconds and the apple icon comes up, my screen saver shows for 1 second and it returns to black screen again. I can hear SIRI. How do I fix?

I had been using the IPAD and all of a sudden it started talking back to me and when swiping apps to close them they would not close. She (the IPAD) kept talking back to me such as "use three fingers" etc. Then the screen went blank and if I touched it I could get it to beep at various touch points. SIRI would also communicate, but the screen stayed black.
As was suggested here, I tried getting a reboot by holding the sleep key with the home key and after 10 seconds the apple logo shows and 5 seconds later my screen saver comes on for just one second, and then it goes back to a black screen. SIRI tells me shes not available and someone else, must be her sister, says things like 90%, 85%, 80% if I continually swipe the screen. Can anyone help me?

Hello, Juniorjr2.
Thank you for visiting Apple Support Communities.
This sounds like screen curtain may be enabled. Screen curtain is a feature that allows display privacy. To disable screen curtain while VoiceOver is enabled, you can three finger triple tap the screen to disable this feature. You may need to press the home button once in order to process these steps. If you wish to disable VoiceOver, see the link in the article below.
iOS: Configuring accessibility features
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5018
If the issue persists, try reaching out to us here.
Cheers,
Jason H.

Using the Submit button to Email

I was previously using Frontpage and I have just recently
started using DW so a lot of this is still new to me. I did get the
DW8 for dummies book which is helping a lot, although I know being
a member on a forum like this will help much more. So any help is
very much appreciated.
I am new to this site and did a quick search but I wasn't
able to find what I was looking for.
I am basically planning on creating an order form using basic
radio buttons and name, address, contact info, etc... fields.
I wanted to have a button on the batton (like the submit
button) that a customer could click on after filling out the
specific fields and then the whole page/order form (with its
contents) would be emailed to me.
Could the "Submit" be used to do this? I know in the DW 8 for
Dummies book it mentions that the Submit button is for credit card
processing companies to send the info and then come back with the
results, but I just want it to email the completed page/order form
so the credit card can be processed in the office.

> Why isn't it as simple as entering in a
"mailto:[email protected]" type of
> thing? Or is it?
It is that simple. However, it is very unreliable. For it to
work, the
visitor filling out the form has to have a properly
configured email client,
that works with the webpage form. That leaves out people
using webmail
services and those using public computers. And- most
computers will put up
a warning screen that the form data is being sent by an
insecure method and
give the person a choice to send or cancel.
>
> Everything I seem to read talks about downloading a
specific cgi-bin type of
> thing depending on what my hosts' server has.
Setting up a form processing script can be very simple.
First step- check your hosting's support/FAQ section for info
about forms
and scripts.
if your hosting has a control panel or CPanel, look there for
a
pre-installed script and instructions on using it.
The free kaosmailer extension at
http://kaosweaver.com will create
the
scripting for you, within dreamweaver, for your choice of
asp/php/coldfusion. (pick the one your hosting supports)
A php script is phpformmail at
http://boaddrink.com
An asp script is at
http://www.brainjar.com/asp/formmail/
A cgi/Perl script would be at
http://nms-cgi.sourceforge.net
(but it would
be my last choice, a php script would be far easier to set
up)
Any further specifics totally depend on what scripting method
you can use on
this hosting, and on what script you want to use.

Is it possible to change the size of the 'Close' button in Full Screen viewing mode?

I am currently using Firefox for a kiosk type scenario. We require that the browser run full screen. The issue is that the 'Close' button is not large enough for users to consistently see, so they're having issues figuring out how to close an active browser window.
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to change this icon? I've tried using themes, but they tend to theme everything but the close button.
Custom configuration details are below.
Firefox version: firefox-3.0.4-1.el5.centos
Customisations:
Access to local drives disabled:
Modified the contents of /usr/lib/firefox-3.0.4/chrome/browser.jar, so that browser.js has the added stanza:
<pre><nowiki>if (location.match(/^file:/) ||
location.match(/^\//) ||
location.match(/^resource:/) ||
(!location.match(/^about:blank/) &&
location.match(/^about:/))) {
loadURI("about:blank");
}</nowiki></pre>
Various menus & bookmarks disabled in chrome/userChrome.css
<pre><nowiki>/* Kill "normal" bookmark icons in the bookmarks menu */
menuitem.bookmark-item > .menu-iconic-left {
display: none;
/* kill icons for bookmark folders in Bookmarks menu */
menu.bookmark-item > .menu-iconic-left {
display: none;
/* kill icons for bookmark groups in Bookmarks menu */
menuitem.bookmark-group > .menu-iconic-left {
display: none;
/* Remove the Edit and Help menus
Id's for all toplevel menus:
file-menu, edit-menu, view-menu, go-menu, bookmarks-menu, tools-menu, helpMenu */
helpMenu { display: none !important; }
tools-menu { display: none !important; }
file-menu { display: none !important; }
edit-menu { display: none !important; }
view-menu { display: none !important; }
go-menu { display: none !important; }
bookmarks-menu { display: none !important; }
#autohide-context { display: none !important;}
#bookmarksToolbarFolderMenu { display: none !important;}
#organizeBookmarksSeparator { display: none !important;}
.tabbrowser-tabs .tab-icon {
display: none;
#urlbar {
font-family: Arial !important;
color: Black !important;
font-size: 26 !important; }</nowiki></pre>

Try code like this:
<pre><nowiki>#window-controls .toolbarbutton-icon {
width: 25px !important;
height: 25px !important;
</nowiki></pre>
The three buttons have these IDs:
<pre><nowiki>#minimize-button
#restore-button
#close-button</nowiki></pre>

My iPad 4 is stuck on the connect to iTunes screen. Have held the home button down while connecting the USB cable to the iPad and its not doing anything, not even showing up under my computer Please Help

IiPad is stuck in the iTunes connect screen. I have held the home button down while plugging the iPad in and still nothing. Hard reset isn't even doing anything. It's not even showing up under my computer. Please Help

Did you get a message that the iPad is disabled?
iOS: Device disabled after entering wrong passcode
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1212
Using iPhone/iPad Recovery Mode
http://ipod.about.com/od/iphonetroubleshooting/a/Iphone-Recovery-Mode.htm
Saw this solution on another post about an iPad in a school enviroment. Might work on your iPad so you won't lose everything.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
‘iPad is disabled’ fix without resetting using iTunes
Today I met my match with an iPad that had a passcode entered too many times, resulting in it displaying the message ‘iPad is disabled – Connect to iTunes’. This was a student iPad and since they use Notability for most of their work there was a chance that her files were not all backed up to the cloud. I really wanted to just re-activate the iPad instead of totally resetting it back to our default image.
I reached out to my PLN on Twitter and had some help from a few people through retweets and a couple of clarification tweets. I love that so many are willing to help out so quickly. Through this I also learned that I look like Lt. Riker from Star Trek (thanks @FillineMachine).
Through some trial and error (and a little sheer luck), I was able to reactivate the iPad without loosing any data. Note, this will only work on the computer it last synced with. Here’s how:
1. Configurator is useless in reactivating a locked iPad. You will only be able to completely reformat the iPad using Configurator. If that’s ok with you, go for it – otherwise don’t waste your time trying to figure it out.
2. Open iTunes with the iPad disconnected.
3. Connect the iPad to the computer and wait for it to show up in the devices section in iTunes.
4. Click on the iPad name when it appears and you will be given the option to restore a backup or setup as a new iPad (since it is locked).
5. Click ‘Setup as new iPad’ and then click restore.
6. The iPad will start backing up before it does the full restore and sync. CANCEL THE BACKUP IMMEDIATELY. You do this by clicking the small x in the status window in iTunes.
7. When the backup cancels, it immediately starts syncing – cancel this as well using the same small x in the iTunes status window.
8. The first stage in the restore process unlocks the iPad, you are basically just cancelling out the restore process as soon as it reactivates the iPad.
If done correctly, you will experience no data loss and the result will be a reactivated iPad. I have now tried this with about 5 iPads that were locked identically by students and each time it worked like a charm.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Try it and good luck. You have nothing more to lose if it doesn't work for you.
 Cheers, Tom

Whre is the Configuration Button? HP 1220c

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