Why are images rendering so poorly in InDesign CS6?

My display performance is set to High Quality, but I'm still getting poor image quality when I import the screenshot.
This is actually unbelievable. All of my colleagues are having the same problem (which doesn't exist in earlier versions of InDesign). Is this a known problem?
My workspace is set to "Web". Exporting doesn't fix it. I'm viewing the document at "Actual Size" and still, the problem persists.
Indesign CS6:
Original:

I've tried every export setting - all output is sub-optimal.
This is an unknown problem. I've scoured the web for ages, and can't find anything on it. Plenty of other people have the issue, but no solutions.
Here is another post with the same problem:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1076804

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Welcome to the Apple Discussions. I ran into that but in a different way. I had all of my image files in folders on a second HD and used another application to manage them. I decided to use iPhoto's alias method to work with the same files. I got a lot of files that were copied over as modified. Have no idea why. I ended up doing global revert to Original several times, watching the Modified folder via the Finder, until it became empty. I then closed iPhoto, dragged the Modified folder to the trash and then launched iPhoto with the Command+Option keys depressed and rebuild the library using the first three options. That worked and got me a pristine library.
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Why are images on my desktop scrambled, chopped up, and behaving erratically?

why are images on my desktop scrambled, chopped up, and behaving erratically?

Exact model would be helpful
Query by serial number
Apple's warrenty database will identify the type of Mac you have. Your serial number is securely sent, but you get only the name of your machine.
https://selfsolve.apple.com/agreementWarrantyDynamic.do
This site provides more information, but lacks security.
"A serial number is a unique, identifying number or group of numbers and letters assigned to an individual piece of hardware or software. It's used for various things depending on the product / brand but what is your Mac's serial number for and more importantly... what is it hiding and what can it do for you ?"
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
You may have a problem with the video chip.
Here is how to tell...
Shutdown your machine. Hold down the shift key. Poweron. Bootup will be longer.
Wait awhile while you harddrive is being checked.
An article on how to boot into safe mode.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1455
Runs OK in safe mode...
Running in Safe mode leaves out some video drivers. Which results in your machine not using advanced video hardware. As luck would have it, you can run the safe mode video drivers in normal mode.
Here is how:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16057567#16057567
Look through the above thread. See the second page. You don't have to read through the first page. Just go to the part where I try a solution that works.
Summary of G5 problems. Includes instructions on a hardware fix for the brave at heart:
See -Rotten Apple- articles in both of these threads.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4023152?tstart=0
https://discussions.apple.com/message/18700825#18700825
Robert

Why are images displayed in Photoshop different than the same images displayed in Indesign?

My images imported to Indesign do NOT display as the images in Photoshop.
They seem to display under different color profiles.
The images in Indesign are more desaturated than the images in Photoshop.
This is a problem because now I don't know which image appearance to trust!
How can you get the Indesign images to look like the images in Photoshop?
I use Photoshop CS4 and Indesign CS3.
I import the images from Photoshop to Indesign for exporting to a PDF as the base for Blurb printing (www.blurb.com).
I use the CMYK profile Blurb_ICC_profile.icc:
The images in PS4 are converted to Blurb_ICC_Profile (CMYK).
Both in PS4 and ID3 the color settings are
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                           Color management Policies:
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The images are imported into Indesign by drag and drop from Bridge CS4. In Bridge it says that the images have color profile CMYK, Blurb_ICC_profile.
I also do get "Unsynchronized: Your Creative Suite Applications are not synchronized for consistent color." And I don't seem to be able synchronize between CS3 and CS4, or whatever. I do NOT depend on any synchronization.
The settings above should be enough to show the images consistently in Photoshop and Indesign.
SO WHY DOES IT NOT?
Should not Adobes own applications be able to keep color consistency?

Hi WA Veghe,
>First: DO synchronize, makes sure you have the same profile settings and color mange settings.
I don't seem to be able to synchronize between CS4 (Photoshop) and CS3 (Indesign).
It seems I have to do without synchronizing..
>I do not seem to find HOW you are diplaying images on you screen: with Soft proofing?
What happens if you soft proof in Photoshop and InDesign on screen: View > Proof colors. Do you proof with the same profiles, both simulate paper and black on?
I can simulate Proof Colors (working CMYK), but not simulate Paper, both in Indesign and Photoshop.
Problem is: SAME settings in Photoshop and Indesign BUT the image displayed in Photoshop is brighter and more saturated.
So which image should I correct after?
thanks for all help
/L

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Use Bridge instead
good luck

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layer 1 psd files with no spot channels
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Besides the obvious extra work of tracking 2 images, there would be potential problems if the images needs to be scaled and moved, and you would have to assume people downstream would know what's going on—should the layer be on or off?
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With SPOT VARNISH set as No Alias in Ink Manager and with Overprint turned on:
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Thanks

you have to package the link folder also

Why are burned DVD's poor quality from the IDVD?

I made a slideshow in iphoto and exported to IDVD so I could burn copies. The show lloked great on screen but the first copies on dvd's were terrible. The quality of images are very poor and seem to be depixilated? Why would the copies be so poor? Does the widescreen or standard have something to do with it??
Help

Hi
There are levels in h*e*l*l*
iDVD - is same as DVD Standard - Interlaced SD-Video
Feeding iDVD progressive or HD material will not improve result but degrade this as from
- iMovie'08 to 11 - as they can not deliver - but only every second line of the picture
- iDVD downscaling from HD - is doing a bad job
So by using a program that can deliver - best possibly DVD is the result
- iMovie HD6
- FinalCut any version
- FotoMagico™ - (for SlideShows)
If this is not enough - then DVD is no option as HD-DVD is rare and needs special HD-DVD-players - alt
• Blu-Ray e.g. from Roxio Toast™ but still needs BD-Player as PlayStation3 etc
• out in high quality to USB-memory to be played on device that can do this
• Play via MacBook and out to a HD-projector/TV
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

Why are my PSD's placed in Indesign not printing as accurate as Jpegs?

Are there any common do's and donts when placing PSD's in indesign? I know its an extremely broad question. Ill explain my process...
Take Raw photo - use adjustment layers to modify image - save as PSD - place saved image in indesign - scale to appropriate size - save PDF - Print at printers. Sometimes I get moiré patterns, sometimes I get speckled images like using a sharpenning tool or filter far too excessively.
Should I be resizing in Photoshop to exact final dimensions?
Am I blaming photoshop for a PDF problem.. maybe I could adjust PDF resampling settings?
Thank you,
Jonny

to get the best quality files in InDesign- import them, dont drag them over. use File>Place.
make sure send image data is set to all when printing. (print>settings>graphics and then under images set "send data" to "all")
also: place your TFF in the frame. you can always fitting > content to frame.
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Why are images tiny in epub "book"?

This is my first time Using InDesign. I have imported 19 jpeg files into ID. Each of the jpegs is 1200x600 pixels, at 300 dpi. They are RGB. Each jpeg is meant to represent a page in a fixed layout children's book, which I will want to upload to Barnes and Noble. When I export the files (in ID) to create an EPUB book, the resultant pages in the book are tiny- about the size of thumbnail images. I have previewed the EPUB file in both Adobe Digital Editions, and in Kindle Comic Creator- same results both places- a tiny, tiny book. Any idea as to what I am doing wrong here?

Hi WA Veghe,
>First: DO synchronize, makes sure you have the same profile settings and color mange settings.
I don't seem to be able to synchronize between CS4 (Photoshop) and CS3 (Indesign).
It seems I have to do without synchronizing..
>I do not seem to find HOW you are diplaying images on you screen: with Soft proofing?
What happens if you soft proof in Photoshop and InDesign on screen: View > Proof colors. Do you proof with the same profiles, both simulate paper and black on?
I can simulate Proof Colors (working CMYK), but not simulate Paper, both in Indesign and Photoshop.
Problem is: SAME settings in Photoshop and Indesign BUT the image displayed in Photoshop is brighter and more saturated.
So which image should I correct after?
thanks for all help
/L

Why are objects unselected when unhiding in InDesign?

In the past, if I hid multiple objects and then chose "show all", the objects would all be selected or active selections. Now the objects unhide but are not selected. Is this a preference? Am I mistaken that maybe this is only an Illustrator feature?

to get the best quality files in InDesign- import them, dont drag them over. use File>Place.
make sure send image data is set to all when printing. (print>settings>graphics and then under images set "send data" to "all")
also: place your TFF in the frame. you can always fitting > content to frame.
-janelle

Why are my Photos very poor when printed from PSE9, but fine from iPhoto.

I have the most up to date versions of Mac OS and printer driver for Epson Stylus Photo R280. I have tried many different print settings in PSE9, but my photos are still very grainy and poor quality. Sometimes just a blank sheet pulls through the printer. Please help.

Hope you choosing the correct paper type and profile settings. Also choosing the correct color management will surely help as i myself use the same printer on win as well as mac and not observing any such issues.
print, more options, color management, color handling, let elements manage color,
Printer profile. working RGB - imac, and rendering intent, relative colormetric
-Garry

Why are images rendering so poorly in InDesign CS6?

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