Why is Encore 5.1 AUTO mode building files just a bit too large for DVDs?

I've been doing the same videos for a few years using Encore 1.5 and more recently Encore 5.1 (with Premiere 5.5). The videos are typically football games with short 2-25 secs of motion menus. If I put two games per DVD, the total running time has been up to 2 hours total per game. I've made dozens of these with Premier writing AVI files (standard 720x480 vide) and writing in Encore 1.5 using auto settings. With Premiere CS4 I started using the dynamic link to Encore CS4 and still ran beautiful DVDs on auto transcoding.
Now, when using the same standard video files in Premiers 5.5, and using dynamic link to Encore 5.1, on auto transcode settings, the image files or transcode files (depending on how I order the build) keep coming out 150 - 300 MBs too large for the DVDs (typically Tayo-Yuden or Verbatim burning to Plextor/Pioneer drives). (Windows-7-X64 Intel D975XBX2 MB.)
To see if I was going nuts, I recently saved a job as two AVI files (same length as the sequences sent through dynamic link to Encore CS5.1) and did the same DVD setup in Encore CS4 but importing the AVI files as timelines. The chapter points didn't convert for Encore CS4 so I had to install manually. The end result, though, was a DVD image that worked fine.
So I then went to the Encore CS5 build window and set the DVD size to manual, dropping down from 4.7GBs to 4.25. The result fit, but then left too much free space (though the vids still looked OK).
I know by other discussions that others are having issues with Encore CS5.1 - or maybe it is related to Premiere 5.5 sequences. Recently burned a set with 22 secs motion menu and 1.4 hours of video and had no problems on auto. This leads me to believe either that Encore is underestimating the transcode sizes or there is a problem with writing DVDs at or near two hours in length.
Anybody have answers, suggestions?
Thanks,
Doug A

Thanks, Giorgio.
I do you imgburn quite a bit and even the new version 2.5.6.0 which allows for truncating and overburning wouldn't write to either the Plextor burners or the Pioneer 205 (Blu-Ray in DVD mode).
I just ran another image build setting the disc size (for the burn) at 4.5GBs rather than the automatic 4.7GBs. This helped and gave me a final image size of 4.33GBs - still not large enough to maximize the disc and the compressed code for better quality, but in this case, a tradeoff for just getting the job done.
I hope Adobe updates a fix for this problem, if indeed, it turns out to be a bug. Also, while I'm on the the bandwagon, the motion previews in Encore 5.1 do seem to preview in very low res. I'll need to check to see if there is a setting for this, but I've not experienced it before 5.1.
Regards,
Doug A

Similar Messages

"This backup is too large for the backup disk" WHY?

My iMac has a 2tb internal drive.
I got a 4th gen 2tb Time Capsule to back it up.
Problem is I get this message - "This backup is too large for the backup disk. The backup requires 2.10 TB but only 2.00 TB are available." WHY?
My internal drive is using 1.75gb of 2tb. Time Capsule is 4th gen 2tb, firmware up to date.
2nd Question - can the WAN and/or wifi ports be easily replaced if they are faulty on another Time Capsule?

pride_1998 wrote:
My iMac has a 2tb internal drive.
I got a 4th gen 2tb Time Capsule to back it up.
Sorry, but that's too small.
Since Time Machine keeps copies of things that have been changed or deleted, it needs much more space than the data it's backing-up. See Time Machine - Frequently Asked Question #1.
Your options are not good. You can connect a larger USB drive and back up to that instead, but I'm not sure how large a drive the TC can handle. It would probably need a powered hub, as the USB port is underpowered.
Or, you could use a different backup app. CarbonCopyCloner and ChronoSync might be workable alteratives.
Problem is I get this message - "This backup is too large for the backup disk. The backup requires 2.10 TB but only 2.00 TB are available." WHY?
It adds "padding" in case the initial estimate is too low, and for workspace on the destination.

Why is TM telling me backup is too large for disk?

Since upgrading to SL, I get this error message when I attempt to run TM back ups:
_+"This back up is too large for the backup disc. The backup requires 123.28gb but only 66.44gb are available."+_
My HD is currently holding 174gb of used space. The LaCie backup drive is 250gb and there is nothing else on this disk.
I thought the culprit might be some movie files i recently imported. I deleted all of those files from all TM backups but that didn't work. Then I tried to erase the backup drive and start over using Disk Utility. That didn't work either. I read on another post to dump the plist and restart the computer, then redesignate the backup drive. Still didn't work.
Any suggestions out there on what is happening and how to fix?

Jaydon wrote:
Not sure how i would tell if it's "scratch" or not.
Sorry, that's a common term for a "working" disk/partition/folder that is temporary and not to be saved.
Sorry for the fire drill. I thought a 250gb drive would logically be enough for 175gb worth of data.
Yes, Apple doesn't make that very clear.
I'll definitely look into a larger drive. Any recs on reliable brand?
Most any drive will work with Macs, and Time Machine.
If you think you ever might want to put a "bootable clone" on it, be sure it's a bootable drive. Most Intel Macs can boot from F/W or USB. But some Western Digitals won't boot a Mac. Their list of which ones should and +should not+ boot: http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/stdadp.php?pfaqid=1787. But note the disclaimer that they don't support it +*at all.+*.
In addition, many of them have a built-in sleep mode that cannot be disabled, and sometimes interferes with Time Machine backups: http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/stdadp.php?pfaqid=1376
Depending on what ports you have, FireWire 800 is by far the fastest; FireWire 400 next, and USB slowest (F/W 400 and USB 2.0 are rated about the same for short bursts, but F/W is faster for sustained transfers. Also, your Mac's CPU has to do more of the work with USB, so actual throughput is usually less).
Many folks think USB is less reliable than FireWire. If you do get USB, be sure to connect it to a port on your Mac, not a keyboard (that may be only USB 1.0). Try to avoid hubs, too.
If you're using USB, it's usually best to get a drive with it's own power supply, as taking power from your Mac can be a marginal proposition. Portable FireWire drives without separate power supplies don't seem to have this problem.
Take any advice for or against particular makes or models with a grain of salt: all makers (of just about anything) can have a "run" of bad components, or a relatively few early failures. Plus, by the time any really good trends are noted, the model has probably been revised or replaced anyway!
Marking solved....thanks again
Great, and thanks for the star!

File too large for quick edit mode

just bought a 12 mega pixil camera. using the photoshop album has been great until now. i can not use the files for quick edit. i can import the files from my camera after doing the recomended steps but in quick edit mode i am not able to do anything with the files. I can totogglento CS and that's the only way to do any editing but it is time consuming. After a wedding i have about 2000 photos to edit and it's just fufrustratingo have to toggle each time for a quick fix like auto balance, i have 1G of RAM and i have version 3 and have had no luck.
Thank you for your help. if you have been successful in editing a 12 megapixil file please let me know....
Zoya

More information on this issue....
I am importing them as JPEG.
I have cropped the photos by 1/100th of it's original size so by definition i am reducing the pixels.
ie, original jpg file is 3.5 MG photo:4368x2912 file type is jpg
camera canon eos 5d
error message is: "the photo you are tying to edit is too large and cannot be eidited. please try usign adobe photoshop or adobe photoshop element s to eidt this photo."

Why cant I import my Nikon D800E NEF files - just started recently - "unable to copy a file"

Why cant I import my Nikon D800E NEF files in LR 4.3 - just started recently -I have been doing the same thing for months and never had a problem. "unable to copy a file to location"

Thanks, but no I do have plenty of space. What I just did was to move the NEF files off of my card and into the location I wanted them. I then just did an import move to the same location. This is just all very odd because it always had worked fine in the past. I do appreciate you trying to help.

Why show encore cs4 encoding failed during build to dvd...?

I am using encore cs4
with intel core2duo 2.8 pro. and 3 gb of ram
actualy i am making multitrack dvd ....in this project i use 7 tracks with different audio
and some tracks of subtitles.
in the timeline i use uncompressed avi file exported from after effect, and when i start encoding process it start encode.
AFTER SOMETIME WHEN SHOW TRANSCODING AVI FILE AND THEN DISPLAY ENCODING FAILD
what is the reason of this error please tell me anybody.... i will be thankfull to u..

Encore CS4 Roxio component problem http://forums.adobe.com/thread/400484?tstart=0
More on Encore and Roxio http://forums.adobe.com/thread/528582?tstart=0 or direct to
http://kb.roxio.com/search.aspx?URL=/content/kb/General%20Information/000070GN&PARAMS
Long File Names Cause Crashing http://forums.adobe.com/thread/588273
And #4 Here http://forums.adobe.com/thread/666558?tstart=0
And This Message Thread http://forums.adobe.com/thread/665641?tstart=0
Encore Tutorial http://www.precomposed.com/blog/2009/05/encore-tutorial/

Why is 500kb jpg file too large for PDF readers?

I have a jpg file size of 500kb and it is too big for GoodReader and PDF reader. Adobe Reader does not appear in the "Open In" dialog. Please help. I have an iPad 2.
hawkdavis

Can you open these attachments in your email with no issues? There is no way that 500kb is too large as Diavonex has already stated.
Two thoughts - the jpgs are not being saved correctly or you have an issue with GoodReader.
Have you restarted your iPad? Quit GoodReader completely and then try again?

Why does Encore CS5 default to MPEG2-Bluray for a DVD build?

When I begin a DVD build (and, before you ask, I have indeed selected DVD and not Bluray) and select Edit Quality Settings from the menu, the quality settings dialog box shows MPEG2-Bluray in the FORMAT field. Should I change this to the MPEG2-DVD format?
I'd appreciate any advice.
Harry Frank

How odd. I have never in my life built a Bluray disk, and I have always used Encore’s defaults for DVD builds. Yet, it is the MPEG2-Bluray format that invariably shows up when I check the quality settings. Any thoughts?
HF

Auto mode focus selection sometimes not logical

I just purchased a refurbrished ELPH 330 and am trying its many settings. In auto mode the camera sometimes seems to select objects (no people in scene) to focus on that aren't logical. For example, if I have a plant on a table with a piece of paper in the foreground or background, it seems to select the paper rather than the plant even if the camera is centered on the plant. I also don't understand why sometimes it has a white focus frame around an object that turns green when the shutter is half presses, and sometimes it doesn't have a white fucus frame and when I press the shutter half way a single or multiple green frames will appear. Without the white focus frame there doesn't appear to be any point or points of focus.
It appears to me that auto mode works best for people and not other objects. Am I correct?

In my opinion AUTO is pretty much designed for those you hand the camera to so they can take YOUR photo. They obviously wouldn't know how to use it properly, have read the manual nor necessarily know ANYTHING about photography. It isn't the setting a photographer would use when trying to capture a specific scene unless it was as basic as it gets..
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Dark pictures with canon 5d mark 3 and 600ex flash, night indoors in Auto Mode and flash on.

I have purchased a new canon 5d mark 3 and speedlight 600ex-rt flash. While testing it indoor at night , the room lights are on and I was using the Auto Mode with Flash on. The pictures are Dark with the Flash on and when the flash is turned off the pictures are brighter. I am confused. How to get the AUto mode working with the Flash on.

Automatic mode, it it's attempt to be reasonably foolproof, is going to lock you out of having any control over the exposure.
The E-TTL metering system on your camera & flash are attempting to find the correct exposure for your subject.
Due to laws of physics (the inverse-square law), light has "fall off". It's not actually possible to use a single light source and expose a large room with that single light. Either the subject is nicely lit but everything else will probably be too dark. OR... the background is nicely lit but the subject is heavily over-exposed. (BTW, there are two ways to get around this.)
The amount of fall-off is based on the relative distance from the light. Every time the distance increases by a factor of 1.4 the amount of light is cut in half. This means if you have subject 10' away, but you have a foreground object only 7' away and a background object 14' away, and the flash is exposed for the subject at 10', then the foreground object will be over-exposed (with twice as much light as needed) and the background will be under-exposed (with half as much libght as needed.) Incidentally... if you "double" or "halve" the distance then the light difference will be 4x or 1/4 (depending on if you are getting closer or farther.)
Here's a video which both explains and then later demonstrates the concept in a way that makes it very obvious to see and easy to understand. If it seems confusing at first... stick with it. The video is only 12 minutes long.
In fully automatic mode the camera wont let you control anything (except how far away you stand from your subject).
If you switch to "Program" mode, it essentially works like automatic mode EXCEPT it will actually allow you to override settings or set compensations.
When you use a flash in a room with some ambient lighting (but otherwise dimly lit) there's a technique called 'dragging the shutter' (which the camera can actually do for you somewhat automatically).
To do that, set the camera to Tv mode (Tv = Time value... which is shutter priority mode). Dial in a slow-ish shutter speed... say around 1/60th of a second. Use a moderately boosted ISO (400 would probably work well... you might even go up higher).
The camera is going to evaluate the exposure needed for the room as though you don't have a flash... and it'll set the camera settings accordingly. However... since it knows you have a flash, it'll still perform the E-TTL II exposure metering and will use the flash anyway. What you end up with is a shot that has a nicely exposed primary subject (because the camera used flash) AND... a nicely exposed background which was primarily illuminated with ambient light -- but looks pretty good because the camera used an exposure that was adequate for the ambient light.
The reason I suggest using Tv mode and NOT Av mode is because you can control the mixture of flash vs. ambient light by controlling the TIME that the shutter is open. But this does NOT work if you control either the aperture or ISO.
Here's why: The flash is "momentary" but the ambient is constant. If you were to adjust the aperture settings, that will increase or decrease ALL the light sources that contribute to the exposure... so it increases (or decreases) the amount of flash AND the amount of ambient light ... and it does them in the same proportions. If you want to bright up the background lighting WITHOUT over-exposing your foreground subject, then you don't want to increase both... you only want to increase the amount of ambient light.
Since the flash is a momentary burst of light, if you leave shutter open longer you wont actually collect any more light from the flash (because the flash was providing illumination for only a tiny fraction of a second. Extending the amount of time that the shutter remains open means the camera will _only_ collect more of the ambient light... and that helps bring up the dark backgrounds.
One way to get around the flash fall-off problem is to greatly increase the distance between flash and subject. You still get "fall off" but now the distance you have to change to notice the fall off really increases. But this method usually isn't very practical because you'll be standing much farther then you'd prefer to be to get the shot.
The second way (and much more practical) is to "drag the shutter" (deliberately use longer shutter times so that the camera can collect more ambient light long after the flash is done.).
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Full auto mode=black screen. M mode=bad pic; only works on highest ISO setting

I usually use the full auto mode on my camera and it worked great. A few days ago, I used the M mode to take some shots of my son's birthday and everything worked great. The next day, I went to use the full auto setting to take some pics outside and the picture was black. The flash won't raise in full auto mode. When I use M mode, the only way I get a picture is if I use the highest ISO (6400) and even then, the picture isn't great. I tried resetting to default thinking that would work, with no luck. Please help! I spent a lot of money on this camera and don't understand why it all of a sudden stopped working.

Exactly. In Manual mode your shots may be solid black or white if your exposure combination is 3 or more stops off one way or the other. Try starting with AV mode (aperture priority mode) or TV (shutter priority mode) before moving on to Manual mode. In those modes you only have to set one of the variables (aperture or shutter speed) and the camera manipulates the remaining variables to give you a correct exposure. Google videos on the exposure triangle and on Av and Tv mode. There are dozens and dozens of good free tutorials by both pros and amateurs to help. Also I recommend buying Bryan Petersen's excellent and easily understood "Understanding Exposure".
And if we are talking about a camera with a viewfinder you really should be using that instead of the LCD "live view" anyway while handholding. Bracing it against your face with your elbows braced against your body is so much steadier than holding it out at arms length like a phone camera. PLUS the camera focuses much much slower in live view (using the LCD) than it does using the eyepiece because in live view the mirror is flipped up for video and so it is having to focus in a different way than normal.
Scott
Canon 6D, Canon T3i, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; EF 85mm f/1.8; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites
Why do so many people say "fer-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

Encore CS5 freezes as I build a DVD

I'm attempting to burn a DVD on a Dell Optiplex 755 using Encore CS5 that was recently installed on a Windows 7 Enterprise 64-bit OS with 4 GB of RAM. The project will start to build the DVD but then freeze up and give me (Not Responding). I've checked the event viewer and was unable to find any events in there and there are no error messages displaying on the screen. Please HELP!!!

How to give more information for someone to help
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/416679
Some specific information that is needed...
Operating System version, such as Win7 64bit Pro... or whatevevr
-including your security settings, such as are YOU the Administrator
-and have you tried to RIGHT click the program Icon and then select
-the Run as Administrator option (for Windows, not sure about Mac)
Your Firewall settings and brand of anti-virus are you running
Brand/Model graphics card, sush as ATI "xxxx" or nVidia "xxxx"
-or the brand/model graphics chip if on the motherboard
-and the exact driver version for the above graphics card/chip
-and how much video memory you have on your graphics card
Brand/Model sound card, or sound "chip" name on Motherboard
-and the exact driver version for the above sound card/chip
Size(s) and configuration of your hard drive(s)... example below
-and how much FREE space is available on each drive (in Windows
-you RIGHT click the drive letter while using Windows Explorer
-and then select the Properties option to see used/free space)
While in Properties, be sure you have drive indexing set OFF
-for the drive, and for all directories, to improve performance
My 3 hard drives are configured as... (WD = Western Digital)
1 - 320G WD Win7 64bit Pro and all programs
2 - 320G WD Win7 swap file and video projects
3 - 1T WD all video files... read and write
Some/Much of the above are available by going to the Windows
Control Panel and then the Hardware option (Win7 option name)
OR Control Panel--System--Hardware Tab--Device Manager for WinXP
Plus Video-Specific Informationhttp://forums.adobe.com/thread/459220?tstart=0
And, finally, the EXACT type and size of file that is causing you problems
-for pictures, that includes the camera used and the pixel dimensions
Read Bill Hunt on a file type as WRAPPER http://forums.adobe.com/thread/440037?tstart=0
What is a CODEC... a Primer http://forums.adobe.com/thread/546811?tstart=0
What CODEC is INSIDE that file? http://forums.adobe.com/thread/440037?tstart=0
For PC http://www.headbands.com/gspot/ or http://mediainfo.sourceforge.net/en
Read Bill Hunt on editing a VOB/MPG file http://forums.adobe.com/thread/464549?tstart=0
Edit Vob http://premierepro.wikia.com/wiki/FAQ:How_do_I_import_VOB_files_/_edit_a_DVD%3F
Read Hunt on Using MOD/TOD files http://forums.adobe.com/thread/699990?tstart=0
Also, This is aimed at Premiere Pro, but may help
Work through all of the steps (ideas) listed at http://forums.adobe.com/thread/459220?tstart=0
If your problem isn't fixed after you follow all of the steps, report back with ALL OF THE DETAILS asked for in the FINALLY section at the troubleshooting link

X11 Won't start with auto mode ..[SOLVED]

HI all,
First of all let me say that Archlinux is an awsome distribution, got my laptop installed with kdemod in no time flat.
very fast running KDE on my aging (7 yr old laptop) ..
I am now trying to install on our family computer which has an nvidia based graphic card. I had a problem trying out my
new installation (using nvidia driver, not nv) bombing with an error when trying startx.
The error was basically saying that the xorg auto-mode determination was not working. If I put a manual mode like "1024x768" in my
xorg.conf file it works fine. It seems like the EDID detection on my Viewsonic monitor is not working.
I would like to run my monitor at higher resolutions than above, Is there a way to force EDID detection to work, or any other way to get
my monitor to display higher resolutions?
Many Thanks,
Bernie
Last edited by bmentink (2009-08-26 08:16:08)

I looked up all the resolution for the Viewsonic monitor, put them in as "Mode" , but Xorg refuses to load any of them except 1024x768.
I even tried an old xorg.conf that used to work just fine at 1680x1050 on a DreamLinux install, but refuses to with the nvidia driver installed with pacman.
In the log file, X complains that it doesn't have enough bandwidth to support the higher resolutions ..
Anyone have any other ideas .. this is nuts!
Cheers,
Bernie

Why does Encore keep crashing and where are the media files?

I am having big problems with Encore right now. I have developed a rather complex DVD with something like 20 movies on it. The video files associated with these movies are all in .wmv format; about 4gb total in size and are stored on an external drive as is the Encore file with which I am authoring this DVD. This drive has a USB connection to my computer which I know is not the best but I have managed to author an earlier draft of this DVD no problem.
The problem now is that Encore keeps crashing. Also, in the process, a lot of disc space is eaten up on my "C" drive. I don't know why this is and where to go to delete these files. I have defragged my computer and my anti-virus scans are up to date. I am running a windows XP Home Edition O/S with an Intel pentium 4 CPU, 2.79 ghz with 2.5 gb of RAM. I went to edit>preferences>media>location in Encore and got that my media files are on my C drive in Adobe>library but, when I looked, they didn't seem to be there. Super frustrating! Also my computer is super-slow too. I deleted all temp files and there is no spyware to speak of, according to my virus scan software (Panda).
Does anyone have any ideas as to how to address this problem? Many thanks!
Lewis

Ah yes... CS4... if the OP is using CS4, the Roxio update is needed
Encore CS4 Roxio component problem http://forums.adobe.com/thread/400484?tstart=0
More on Encore and Roxio http://forums.adobe.com/thread/528582?tstart=0 or direct to
http://kb.roxio.com/search.aspx?URL=/content/kb/General%20Information/000070GN&PARAMS
Also
Long File Names Cause Crashing http://forums.adobe.com/thread/588273
And #4 Here http://forums.adobe.com/thread/666558?tstart=0
And This Message Thread http://forums.adobe.com/thread/665641?tstart=0

[875P Neo Series] CoreCenter and auto-mode

Hi
Every time I restart my computer (windows xp) I need to click on Auto Mode of Core Center to have the fans slow down. Looks like I can't make Corecenter to automatically start in auto-mode.
Does anyone have the same problem? Is there any solution?
Tanks
Roce

Check in BIOS the temp to which the fans are set to increase. If it is low (30-40) increase it to 45-50c.

Why is Encore 5.1 AUTO mode building files just a bit too large for DVDs?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for