Why is my 4g Internet running so slow? My download speed is 22.0 mb/s and upload speed is 18.0 mb/s. I ran a test to find that out. Idk if that's slower than what it's supposed to read out at but it's taking forever to watch videos online. Help?
My Internet on my iPhone 4S w/ 4g started running slow a month or 2 ago and has t changed since. It takes several minutes just to buffer short online vids and way longer if its over 2-3 minutes. Pages are loading slow. Downloading aps is a nightmare too. Any thing I can do to improve speed on it? I've only had the phone for 6 months or so.
One thing I've noticed is that a shared tab pops up when I open the finder under "favorites" with a random connection. It's called hp68b... None of my friends that I live with have this and we all use the same internet. Two days ago when I would click it and click get info, it said it was a pc. When I checked it today it said it is a "sharepoint" and looks like a harddrive.
I took it too the store after i spilt water on it but when I got it back it ran perfectly fine. I don't know a lot about computer so if somebody could help me. It says I'm connected to it and I can't disconnect or delete it. I don't know if the guy at the computer store put something in my computer and is sharing all my files.
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Why is my MacBook Air running so slow? What can I do to make it run faster?
Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5 (11G63b)
Processor 1.6GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Speed 1.6GHz
Memory 2GB 667MHz SDRAMLaunch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Click the Clear Display icon in the toolbar. Then try the action that you're having trouble with again. Select any messages that appear in the Console window. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message (command-V).
When posting a log extract, be selective. In most cases, a few dozen lines are more than enough.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting. -
After restored factory setting, I cannot download apps if I do not upgrade the ios of my 4s. However, many people saying that upgrading to ios7 in 4s will make it run very slow. What can I do?
After restored factory setting, I cannot download apps if I do not upgrade the ios of my 4s. However, many people saying that upgrading to ios7 in 4s will make it run very slow. What can I do?
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Ever since my upgrade to lion 10.7.3, and iCloud, my macbook is running extremely slow. What can I do? It doesn't seem like my contacts are pushing through to the computer from iPhone.
Then your basic issues are: too little RAM, incompatible software, dysfunctional installation.
Add more RAM or kill as many programs that you use until the computer is running normally.
See App Compatibility Table - RoaringApps. Upgrade any old software.
Reinstall OS X:
Reinstalling OS X Without Erasing the Drive
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Reinstalling OS X Without Erasing the Drive
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility and press the Continue button. After Disk Utility loads select the Macintosh HD entry from the the left side list. Click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If Disk Utility reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit Disk Utility and return to the main menu.
Reinstall OS X: Select Reinstall OS X and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.
Alternatively, see:
Reinstall OS X Without Erasing the Drive
Choose the version you have installed now:
OS X Yosemite- Reinstall OS X
OS X Mavericks- Reinstall OS X
OS X Mountain Lion- Reinstall OS X
OS X Lion- Reinstall Mac OS X
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet
if possible because it isthree times faster than wireless. -
HT1338 Why is my MacBook Pro running so slow after installing Mountain Lion 10.8.
Why is my MacBook Pro running so slow after installing Mountain Lion 10.8. I have restarted, created more free space on my hard drive and run disk utilities. Simple operations result 20 seconds or more of the spinning wheel. Some are so slow that the operation does not happen at all. Itunes music cuts out during operations.
Check out this article by Thomas Reed for help http://www.reedcorner.net/understanding-upgrade-nightmares/. Also, make sure all apps are compatible with Mountain Lion using www.roaringapps.com. Do you have any antivirus installed? Make sure all apps are updated as well.
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Why is my macbook pro running so slow and how do I improve the speed?
why is my macbook pro running so slow and how do I improve the speed?
Write off the MS stuff as indicators for now--starting with Office 2008, they developed very long launch times. The time to launch 2008 on my old 1.25Ghz G4 and my MBP 2.2G are virtually the same. Even document opens/saves are slow compared to Office 2004 and earlier.
1) You have adequate hard drive space so that eliminates one of the usual suspects.
2) Check for runaway background processes. Quit all running user applications so the computer is at normal idle. Find Activity Monitor in Applications > Utilities and launch it. If you've not run it before, change the "Show" pulldown at the top of the AM window from its default of "User Processes" to "All Processes." There is a column for "%CPU." Click that column header to sort by CPU usage. Watch the processes "bubble" for about a minute to get a better picture of the usage.
If any process is using more than about 25 percent of the CPU cycles while the computer is idling, post the names of the processes and we can see if they can be eliminated. My MBP shows nothing using more that about 5 percent on any given test run as long as I close all my user apps.
3) If you have never done any sort of maintenance procedures, taht can slow you down. Simply restarting the computer a few times a week clear a lot of temporary files. You also may wish to review this article on the Mac OSX periodic maintenance scripts, which, if run, also do a lot of cleanup:
http://thexlab.com/faqs/maintscripts.html
There are other useful articles on file maintenance associated with the one. Here's the index:
http://thexlab.com/faqs/faqs.html
Check out articles with "Maintain" and "Tuning" in the titles.
4) Use Disk Utility to check the SMART Status of your hard drive. A failing drive can make things slow before it makes things stop. -
I have erased and restored my 24 inch Intel iMac. I have upgraded to the last version of X os. My system is running WAY slower than it was before. Even opening windows seems to lag and the spinning wheel come up for everything. Every task is slow, even typing this! lol
Here are my specs:
Model Name: iMac
Model Identifier: iMac8,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2.8 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 6 MB
Memory: 4 GB
Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version: IM81.00C1.B00
SMC Version (system): 1.30f1
Any ideas would be helpful. Is this a hardware issue?
Thanks!Matt:
Thanks for the update. It is good to know that the maintenance procedures helped. Regular maintenance and a good backup are key to computer security. Gulliver's article has a suggested schedule. Dr. Smoke's FAQ on Backup and Recovery has excellent information and advice. I part company with him on his insistence on Retrospect, which I have found to be difficult to use. SuperDuper has been shown the best backup software in these tests.
If you usually leave your computer on or asleep, it is good practice to shut down and start up in Safe Mode occausionally. I do it about once weekly.
Good luck.
cornelius
Message was edited by: cornelius -
My mac is running very slow. what can i do to find out what's wrong?
Hi! My mac is running very slow! What can I do to check what's wrong?
How much RAM is installed?
How full is your Mac's hard drive?
Do you run any antivirus software on your Mac? Antivirus software can slow down the normal operation of OS X.
Do you run any "crapware" like Mackeeper or any other type of "crapware" like so called hard drive "cleaning" apps? -
In CS6, JavaScript Running MUCH Slower than ActionScript
Hi All,
I am finding that in CS6, JS code runs MUCH slower than ActionScript code. I don't want to double-post here - Full details may be found where I posted them in the InDesign Scripting forum at - CS6 JavaScript Running Much Slower than ActionScript, before I realized that this forum might be more appropriate.
The basic gist of it is that I had a Flex/ActionScript Extension, which I obviously needed to start converting to JavaScript in advance of the next version not supporting ActionScript. I converted 20,000 lines of my business logic code from ActionScript to JavaScript (grrr...) - only to find that it now runs 5 times slower than it did in ActionScript.
What has been the experience of others who have converted large Extensions from ActionScript to JavaScript?
I would greatly appreciate any and all suggestions.
TIA,
mlavieHi All,
I am finding that in CS6, JS code runs MUCH slower than ActionScript code. I don't want to double-post here - Full details may be found where I posted them in the InDesign Scripting forum at - CS6 JavaScript Running Much Slower than ActionScript, before I realized that this forum might be more appropriate.
The basic gist of it is that I had a Flex/ActionScript Extension, which I obviously needed to start converting to JavaScript in advance of the next version not supporting ActionScript. I converted 20,000 lines of my business logic code from ActionScript to JavaScript (grrr...) - only to find that it now runs 5 times slower than it did in ActionScript.
What has been the experience of others who have converted large Extensions from ActionScript to JavaScript?
I would greatly appreciate any and all suggestions.
TIA,
mlavie -
My four year old iMac is running much slower than when it was new. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to "clean it up" and get it running like it used to?
What year, screen size, CPU speed and amount of RAM installed?
To find out info about your system,
Click on the Apple symbol in the upper left of the OS X main menu bar. A drop down menu appears.
Click About this Mac. A smaller popup window appears. This gives you basic info like what version of OS X your iMac is running, the speed of your iMac's CPU and how much RAM is installed.
Click on the button that says More Info. A larger window appears giving you a complete overview of your iMac's hardware specs.
Highlight all of this info and copy/paste all of this into another reply to this post, editing out your iMac's serial number before actually posting the reply.
This will tell us everything about your iMac so we may begin to help with your iMac issues.
How full is your Mac's hard drive?
Locate your iMac's hard drive icon on the OS X desktop. Click the icon once, then use the keyboard key combination Command-I. This will give you additonal info about your iMac's internal hard drive.
Post this info in your reply here, also.
Here are some general tips to keep your Mac's hard drive trim and slim as possible
You should never, EVER let a conputer hard drive get completely full, EVER!
With Macs and OS X, you shouldn't let the hard drive get below 15 GBs or less of free data space.
If it does, it's time for some hard drive housecleaning.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your Mac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you store images in other locations other than iPhoto, then you will have to weed through these to determine what to archive and what to delete.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Look through your other Mailboxes and other Mail categories to see If there is other mail you can archive and/or delete.
STAY AWAY FROM DELETING ANY FILES FROM OS X SYSTEM FOLDER!
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Look in your Applications folder, if you have applications you haven't used in a long time, if the app doesn't have a dedicated uninstaller, then you can simply drag it into the OS X Trash icon. IF the application has an uninstaller app, then use it to completely delete the app from your Mac.
To find other large files, download an app called Omni Disk Sweeper.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it do its initial automatic tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the maintenance tabs that let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck! -
Firefox 4.0 is the WORST browser I have ever seen. It freezes, crashes, closes, changes screens, does not respond, and runs 8X SLOWER than 3.6. Tasks I used to do in 30 minutes, now takes me 40 minutes or more. I went back to 3.6 and immediately had a tremendous improvement.
Mozilla needs to get rid of this load of lies about a new crap program, and go back to the 3.6 version. Version 4.0 is WORST than any other program I have ever seen.The slow / hesitant scrolling problem seems to be an artifact of the database Firefox uses to keep track of where you go, what you do, etc. It uses sqlite databases which get fragmented over time.
There are several fixes:
Some are add-ons and work internally, such as Vacuum Places (search the addons for it).
Some are external. Speedyfox is one I just tried, and found to work quite well. I think it did a better job than Vacuum Places, but requires Firefox to be shut down before it can work properly.
Find Speedyfox using a web search. -
Frustration! Refund for apps that don't do what they are supposed to?
How quickly a $2 app turns into a $50 waste of time!
I purchased a $2 unit converter app to use at work and whenever else I needed it. After playing with it for about 20-30 minutes, I realized that there were several calculation errors. The unit converter simply didn't do correct conversions! (1 foot equals 11.986 inches!?) Now, If I'm noticing some simple conversion errors myself, how many conversion errors are happening that I don't realize? Needless to say, this app is useless to me because I can't trust its data.
So I contacted the dev, and even got a response within a day. I sent a second message where I had done a lot of troubleshooting for them, hoping they could correct the problems. Nothing. No update, no response, nothing.
So this brings me to my question... how can you get a refund for an app that doesn't do what it is supposed to do?
Yes, yes, I realize the "all sales are final" thing. But this is where Apple's usual high level of customer service fails. Am I supposed to buy apps on blind faith that they work, knowing there is no refund? If I was assured that someone was testing these apps and assuring me that they do what they are supposed to, then okay. But that's not happening.
Oh, wait... read reviews before buying? How is that possible for new(er) apps? If nobody buys it because they are waiting for reviews, then nobody can review it. I'd hate to be a dev and make a great app and have nobody buy it because they were afraid it wouldn't work.
Not all apps have free/lite/trial versions.
If this "no refund" policy is to be fair, then there needs to be demo or trial periods on all apps, to be certain that they actually do what they are supposed to! Until then, I want my $2 back so I can buy a unit converter that doesn't have calculation errors. I won't hold my breath for that... or for the ~$50 of my time wasted testing someone else’s app to no avail, and trying to find a contact source for Apple to request a refund.I do see where you are coming from.
However I'm just personally against people buying something with the intent of taking it back and that's what would worry me here. I'm talking about girls I know who buy 4 dresses to take home and try out (and perhaps wear) and then take some or all of them back. Now that's one way to shop but I don't agree with it as I think it makes it more expensive for the rest of us as there is a cost involved in customer service and repackaging returned items. Note that is an example and I don't particularly care about buying dresses myself - except on Fridays when I log on as BettyDP
And you mention you only want this for broken apps (i.e. ones that fail to deliver what the are for), rather than apps you bought and decided you didn't like/need. But this is a fine line and some people would use such a system to try to claim money back on an app they bought and thought wasn't that good, even if it did what it said. So who's to judge where that line is? And to have Apple employing people to make that call would push up the cost to all the apps.
Now you genuinely have an issue with this particular app and, in my opinion, deserve your money back. However if you buy 100s of apps and end up wanting your money back on a large proportion of them then I do not agree with you, for the above reasons. When spending money, in my opinion, you should do your research and read reviews to make sure it suits. Sometimes, for a new app, you can't do as much in which case you either take a risk or hope you can get your money back if it doesn't suit. Yes, an item sold should do what it says to meet basic trading standards (and otherwise it's basically fraud), but, IMHO, there should also be a level of caveat emptor (buyer beware).
Ultimately, for $2, I personally would probably chalk it up to experience and not try to reclaim it - thinking that the time spent trying to claim it back would be more hassle than it's worth. But then maybe that's just me.
Now your demo point is a good one. Some app developers make a demo or lite version of their app to give you a free preview. That's their choice and not something Apple enforces and they think the extra coding to make this version is worth it in that it hopefully will drive up more sales. I agree it would be nice if Apple put some funky time limit on ALL apps so developers don't have to do this, and so you get it for free for 24hours to trial. It would certainly help in your situation and I myself would also find this useful.
Finally the time you spent debugging the app is your time. You didn't need to do that and I don't think that's really that relevant here (I presume you aren't expecting to get you $2 back AND some extra because you spent some time fiddling with it?)
Anyway, now I've made my opinion known (which you are perfectly entitled to disagree with), I'll get off my high horse and actually point you out to something helpful:
http://www.iphonedownloadblog.com/2009/07/09/iphone-app-refund/
(note I did read your comment about this form not working but I'd say try it again later or on another browser).
Also note the interesting comments on this link which give more reasons (from a Developers point of view) why this is possibly a bad idea... -
When I listen to music, it starts off at a lower volume than what it's supposed to be......
When I listen to music, it starts off at a lower volume than what it's supposed to be......
Hi Yendy14,
Welcome to the Support Communities!
The article below may be able to help you with this.
Click on the link to see more details and screenshots.
Troubleshooting iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch accessories
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2634
Cheers,
- Judy -
Why my notebook sometimes blacks out, in windows 7, when I watch video online or just browse some web pages which contains quite a lot pictures?
1. I am not sure whether it is the problem of the graphic hardware, relevant softwares or the system itself.
2. I am not sure whether browsing a webpage with a lot pictures would make the graphic hardware, or other hardwares if possible, massively burdened and then just crash.
3. Or if possible, is the reason that the heat dissipation doesn't work well?
I am looking forward to any replies that might be helpful. Really appreciated.it could be heat, not enough RAM, but you don't tell us enough.
There is no reason to assume this is anything other than running Windows natively btw.
Browser of course matters probably the most.
I like IE10 now, but use to use FF until recently. I'd like Chrome except for a few concerns I have over using it, it can eat up a lot of RAM and it builds up HUGE disk cache if you don't clear history and cache on exit and run CCleaner regularly ( good for all browsers )
So assuming 64-bit and 4GB or more and core i5 or better...
Also make sure Wiindow has 10GB of free space or more.
Biggest concern is what happens afterwards and whether you have run a check of your hard drive (chkdsk on startup) or if the problem cascades and gets progressively worse on top of the first - like do you have to do hard restart or able to bring up Task Mgr and kill or better yet, Resource Mgr and see if you have any thread locks.
Safari is not well versed in multithreading and handling what you want to do and are doing. IE9 isi usually good but I found it could not handle a lot of tumblr photo streams and sites. Try Chrome. With Firefox, use noscript, blashblock and see how it goes. -
Why does ma older apple laptop cancel Safari when I a m watching videos online? Also,I used to be able to run Firefox but now message states "can't use with this operating system"?
You can't use Firefox, because your operating system, OS X, is a version 10.4 or earlier.
Firefox "upgraded" its Mac compatible version, so that it will only operate with OS 10.6 or later.
Your Safari also might quit, because it too has an upgraded version with greater stability geared toward 10.4 and later. Perhaps you are using system 10.3 or earlier.
It is also possible that Safari quits, because the video sites you watch have changed to be compatible with newer browser versions with later Flash Player compatibility, like Adobe.
It is difficult to find browser compatibility or stability for earlier than 10.4.
What the above post is showing is in the drop down menu in the upper left of your screen. Click on the blue Apple for its drop down menu. Click on the first in the list, About This Mac. That's where you'll see the version as shown in the previous post.
If you upgraded your Safari, even that could be a problem, because it might not work as well with your older operating system. I haven't tried the following link, but it offers the Safari versions that fit each system. You can try downloading the one that matches yours. If that doesn't work, you can always upgrade again.
http://mac.oldapps.com/safari.php
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