Wide angle lense problem...

Hi
I've just started shooting my film and have used a wide angle lense for some shots. Everything looked fine when I checked on the day of shooting. But when I just captured to FCE, there are small black areas on four corners, like a circle shape (as if the lense is covering) - is this because the lense wasn't put on properly? Is there a way of changing the format or cropping the video?
Thanks
Matt
iMac Intel Mac OS X (10.4.6) Final Cut Express HD

You can scale up the image a bit to hide it if you like.
The reason it's there in FCE is because you see all the picture. A TV or camera LCD was probably masking some of the image. That's why FCE has Overlays like Picture Safe and Title Safe, to judge what could be lost.
TVs will show less of the image than your computer screen. And not all TVs show the same amount of the image.
Try playing the Timeline to a TV/Monitor and see if the vignetting is hidden. Most likely it will.
Al

Similar Messages

Wide Angle Lenses - Full Frame vs APS-C

I'm shooting on a crop sensor (30D) and using a Tamron 10-24 Di (poor quality, I must say) to cover my wide angle needs. I'm looking to upgrade my body and lens soon, but I need little help. I shoot real estate and to be honest the 10mm just isn't wide enough at times. Here are two issues I'm stuggling with:
Do I wait to get better glass until I upgrade to possibly a full frame body
How do the focal lengths of the Canon wide zooms compare to my 10-24
See, if I get a new lens now (Canon 10-22) then I'm essentially forcing myself to stay in the crop sensor body market. However, if I decided I will go with a full frame body, then I cannot use the 10-22, and should get something like the 16-35, which would not cover my current wide angle needs on my 30D. Dilemma.
Has anyone else fought this battle who can offer some advice & insight?
http://www.phoblography.org/

If you're serious about real estate photography, then you would be best served by getting a 17TS-E lens. This isn't as wide as 10mm on your existing sensor size, but you can shift-pano two or three shots together and get even wider if need be.
This way you would be spending your money on the glass which is most important here.
Then, if you like, you can pick up a cheap 5Dc or 5D2 and have the ideal FF/TS set up.
Unique Night Time Photography | Twilightscapes.com

Can I correct for distortion caused by wide angle lenses using Apature - for instance in mountain photos?

I am using Apature 3.5.1 and want to correct for the (parallax?) effect, "tilting", created by wide angle lenes in mountain photos. Can I do this in Apature and is so how

Aperture cannot correct lens distortion you will need to resort to a plugin.
PTLens is used by a number of users here (myself included) with good results.

Does someone make a wide angle lense accessory for iPad video camera?

Would like to widen iPad video camera perspective when using Skype app. Looking for aftermarket product like Phocus, but for iPad video camera. Anything out there or do I need to develop a start-up myself?

There are a number of lens kits available that will work on the iPad, but I've never seen one that will work on the forward lense (which is what I assum you are looking for). Doesn't mean there isn't one however.
You might start here: https://www.google.com/search?q=iphone+lense&oq=iphone+lense&aqs=chrome..0j69i57 j5j0.5236j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=ipad+lenses&tbm=shop

Create lens profile for ultra wide angle lens

Hello,
I am trying to create a lens profile for the ultra wide angle lens Olympus 9-18 mm (Crop factor 2). As i use the lens for timelapse, i only need the profiles for 9 mm and open aperture f4, but combined with several different ND-filters which show different vignetting depending on their filter strength. Filters are oversized, so no influence by fringe. What i need is to get rid of vignetting.
So far everything works out well, and probably good enough for still photography. However for timelapse I need a high quality compensation of vignetting, otherwise getting flicker.
My problem is, that with the ultra wide angle lens distance from camera to chart (A3) is just about 0.5 meters. I did the shootings outside, in shade, when having a clear sky, and I found it quite impossible not to produce any shadow of myself or the camera on the chart. Thus I got a not perfectly even correction of vignetting.
Can anyone give me tips how to solve that problem with producing shade on the cart? Maybe working indoors with 2 lamps can create better results? Have tried that but found the illumination of the chart so damn poor.

I think your best bet is outside, with possibly a larger chart. (The two-light setup indoors is problematic esp. with wide-angle lenses.)
Instead of waiting for overcast, try waiting for a sunny clear day with a direct lighting from the sun on the chart, at a sharp angle (almost side-lit) so that the chart is clearly illuminated, but the shadow that the camera casts will be to the side (instead of on the chart itself).

Wide-angle lens for a wvc2300

Hello,
I have a WVC2300 in a small office. Even though I place the camera in the furthest corner of the room, I cannot see all that I want to see; this is with the lens that comes with the camera.
Is there another lens that I can use that will capture a wider angle?
Thanks

Hello Clifford,
The WVC2300 does support additional lenses including a wide angle lenses. The part number for the wide angle lense is
CAMLWA. Here is the link to the 2300 series camera upgrade parts: http://www.cisco.com/en/US/prod/collateral/vpndevc/ps6918/ps9692/ps9944/data_sheet_c78-528435_ps9944_Products_Data_Sheet.html
Hope this helps.
-john

Wide angle Lens

Im a total noob in Flash. I have absolutely no expeirence
with Actionscript. Im only an animator. Some day i will sit down
and learn it, but for now.. i dont.
Anyways, is there some way of using code to stretch or skew
the screen making it look like a wide angle lens.
Wide angle lenses are used for music videos, and often make
the results skewed, centering around one point.
If you could help a noob, that would be great.

Im a total noob in Flash. I have absolutely no expeirence
with Actionscript. Im only an animator. Some day i will sit down
and learn it, but for now.. i dont.
Anyways, is there some way of using code to stretch or skew
the screen making it look like a wide angle lens.
Wide angle lenses are used for music videos, and often make
the results skewed, centering around one point.
If you could help a noob, that would be great.

PS CC 2014 Win: Wide Angle Correction Filter - create profiles?

Not being an expert in this field, I assume that lenses always produce the same amount and kind of distortion at a given focal length. I don't know for what exactly lens correction profiles correct (used in both Lightroom and Photoshop alike), fact is that I need to correct further using the Wide Angle Correction Filter (WACF) to get rid of most lens quirks. Can someone please explain to me why the lens correction profile files aren't enough, and if it would be possible to produce some kind of correction profile(s) for the WACF that can be re-used?
Andreas

Sorry, no solution to the problem, but a confirmation. I do have the same problem (Intuos Pro and Pen & Touch) showing the problem with ACR 8.5 and Photoshop (2014, CC and 6, these were updated with ACR 8.5) . No such problem before ACR 8.5 and no problem with LR 5.5 (also containing ACR 8.5).
I hope there will be a solution from Adobe soon, since sems to be caused by the ACR update.
Windows 8.1 in my case and latest Wacom Intuos driver installed.
Thomas

Best reasonably priced wide angle lens does anyone recommend?

I have a 70d and would like to get much more from close up wide angular shooting, without breaking the bank.
Are there alternatives to a canon 10-22mm or 12-24 ( not sure if my specs are correct, no doubt someone will put me straight!) , sigma...tokina..etc..?

The Canon EF-S 10-22mm is hard to beat. It's an excellent lens, well corrected, fast focusing, nice color renditions, super sharp, very good flare control (better than any other ultrawide I've seen). The only thing I'd tick as a negative is the lens hood is quite large... still, after testing I wouldn't be without it.
Tokina AT-X 12-24mm is the lens I rank second. It's also good in all respects, might even be better built (reminds me very much of a 17-35/2.8 L I had). It is not quite as sharp as the Canon and not quite as good handling flare. But still is excellent and better than most. It's also on sale right now (there's a new model out).
The Tokina 11-16mm is a popular lens for those who feel they need an ultrawide with f2.8 aperture. It's the only one that offers that. It is very sharp, close to or maybe even sharper than the Canon. However, it's quite prone to flare. Some people have no problem with that... Others have told me they ended up getting a different lens instead, because of the flare issues. I guess it depends upon what you shoot and how you shoot it, but flare can be an issue with lenses that cover a very wide angle of view. It's also a significant trade-off to get to f2.8, that this lens only has a very narrow range of focal lengths. All other ultrawides are at least 2X zooms. 11-16mm is only 1.45X.
Tokina has a new 12-28/4 out now, too... I have not used or compared it.
These three Tokinas and two Sigmas offer non-variable aperture design. All other ultrawides have variable apertures. This may or may not matter to you. I think the main place where variable aperture may be an issue is if using manual flash or studio strobes a lot. Variable aperture isn't a big deal for most.
Sigma offers a number of ultrawides. Their most affordable is a 10-20mm with a variable aperture. It's a decent lens that a lot of people find fine. I tried out an earlier version and decided I liked the Tokina better, so bought that instead (I now also have the Canon 10-22mm). Main thing I noticed was slightly less sharpness and more flare. But, do note that this lens has been revised once or twice since then and newer versions might improve upont this.
Sigma also offers a 10-20mm f3.5 with a non-variable aperture. It is quite large, heavy and more expensive. I have never used it.
SIgma also offers the widest of the wide... an 8-16mm. I haven't used it. It has strong, inherent wide angle distortion effects (almost as much as a fisheye lens). But that's to be expected with such an extreme lens.
There is a Sigma 12-24/4, too... but it's actually a full-frame capable lens (widest of the wide for FF, in fact), which makes it larger, more expensive and less well corrected. Not necessary for a 70D with it's APS-C crop sensor.
Finally, there is a Tamron 10-24mm. It's been many years since I tried one, but I seem to recall it was a bit soft in the 18-24mm range and didn't seem as well made as some of the others. It has been one of the more affordable and offered the widest range of focal lengths in a single zoom.
There aren't many prime lenses that are truly wide on a crop sensor camera. The only fairly affordable one that comes to mind is the Rokinon/Samyang 14mm f2.8. It's a manual focus, manual aperture lens that's full frame capable, but just barely gets into the ultrawide category for crop sensor cameras too. Sells under a bunch of different brand names, besides Rokinon or Samyang you'll also see it as a Vivitar (they call it a 13mm), Bower, ProOptic... maybe some more.
Most other ultrawide primes tend to be quite pricey (Canon's own 14/2.8L, Zeiss 15mm, for example).
You'll have to define what "best" means for you. All ultrawides have different pluses and minuses. You'll also have to decide what you consider "affordable". Have fun shopping!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Wide angle lens for T3i?

I have a rebel T3i and am looking to get a new lens for it. I was thinking about getting a wide angle since I plan on using it mostly at concerts. What lens would be the best fit? I would also like to keep the price around 500-600 dollars since I am on a budget.
Also, most of the places I plan to shoot have little or no natural light. It is very dark and most of the lighting comes from the colored stage lights. Would it be a good idea to get a LED light for my camera? Thanks for your time and I appreciate your help.

Are these concerts with professional acts that require tickets to attend?
Most concert venues have restrictions on bringing cameras and one of the most common restrictions prohibits bringing any camera with a "removeable lens" (basically this is deliberately done to eliminate all DSLRs). Most venues tend to be ok with point & shoots and camera phones.
Most concerts I attend have this restriction -- unless you can get a photo pass. I've been fortunately in that I've been able to get photo passes for the majority of concerts I attend (typically this means you need some sort of industry connection to the band, manager, etc.)
I think in the past 3 or 4 years I attended a grand total of one concert that did not have a restriction on any camera (I wrote to get a photo pass and was told that I could just bring my camera because no pass was required. I was a bit incredulous at first because this was the first time I encountered a venue that didn't have _any_ restrictions.)
I own a Canon G1 X (advanced point & shoot) specifically for those times when they have restrictions and I'm unable to get a photo pass.
That aside... when I can bring my camera, the two lenses I prefer to use are my EF 135mm f/2.0L (about $1000) and my EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS (original -- which was the better part of $2k, but the "II" is now over $2k). I never use anything wider unless I'm taking an audience shot (I bring my 24-70 but it's only used for a few audience shots and then after the concert.)
You will _not_ likely want or need a wide-angle (nothing wider than your kit lens), and usually a mild telephoto is nice. BUT... light is usually a problem. Expect to have poor/low lighting, need high ISO, shooting at wide open and STILL not having a particularly fast shutter speed. Such low focal ratio lenses are usually not inexpensive -- so that's going to stress your budget somewhat.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

It doesn't seem to be as sharp as it is in the "Develop" mode. This seems to occur more with wide angle than macro. Any suggestions would be extremely welcome...Norm

Here's my problem: (Lightroom 4) I will edit a photo in "Develop" to the point where it looks great and I'm satisfied with the results. Then I click back to "Library" and the photo seems to go a little out of focus. When I export the photo, it doesn't seem to be as sharp as it is in "Develop" mode. This seems to occur more with wide angle than macro. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Norm

Okay guys, some good news!
First of all, thanks again to Sean for his suggestion to look inside the transaction log!
Indeed that specific table that I noticed was filling the transaction log, is the largest table in my database. Its size stands at about ~65GB. Like I said earlier, it has no LOB or Overflow columns. But one interesting fact about it is - it had absolutely
no indexes! It was a heap, but it was also partitioned. I didn't know a case like this could cause such problems with shrink? It's weird but it also kinda makes sense in a way.
Anyways, I ran a script to create a partitioned clustered index on that table. That took pretty much all day long due to the table size (almost 7 hours). But once that was finished, shrinking the data file was a breeze!
At least... Until the shrink started "hanging" again because now it started dealing with my
second largest table (~55GB). Like the first one, this one is also a partitioned
heap without any indexes. So I expected this to happen. I guess the solution this time will be the same: Create a clustered index.
Does this make sense to you? A partitioned heap table causing such heavy workload to SHRINK, but when it's moved to a clustered index, suddenly it flies?
Eitan Blumin; SQL Server Consultant - Madeira SQL Server Services

Wide angle lens for Built-In iSight? (MacBook Pro)

Hi,
I'm looking to use my MacBook Pro for a video conference, but the angle of the lens is so limited.
Are there any lenses you can put over the built-in camera that allow for a wider angle?
Right now, everyone has to sit one on top of another to be seen by the speaker. I would like to be able to create a little bit of a semi-circle so participants can see eachother while also seeing the speaker.
Any help? Anyone heard of anything?
I can imagine even a convex piece of plastic over the camera might do the trick. Don't know, but doesn't seem impossible. Even if there's mild distortion in the picture, the bigger view would be worth it.
Not really looking for a fish-eye, but more a wide angle or something that gives a bit more of a panorama effect.
Thanks.

Hello andintroducing
One disadvantage of the built-in iSight is its lack of any easy way to mount accessory lenses like those that can be used with an external iSight equipped with this Kaidan iSight Accessory Kit. This kit includes a threaded lens adapter ring that can be used to mount a 37-mm auxiliary wide-angle lens. The adapter ring can also be purchased separately.
On occasions when you need a wider field of view than your built-in iSight offers, other than rigging some wide-angle auxiliary lens to your MBP, the best I can suggest is to consider a second webcam that has a wide-angle lens. I have tested with a MacBook user who was comparing video from his built-in iSight with a QuickCam® Fusion™. The external camera offered a much wider field of view, and the video quality was fine. If you consider this alternative, I suggest you take your MBP with you when you shop. Doing so will let you "try-before-you-buy" so you can be certain whether the webcam is wide enough for your needs.
If you do not want to use a second camera, you can buy a wide-angle auxiliary lens for a camcorder and mount it in front of your built-in iSight.
Depending on your ingenuity and skills, you might want to mount the auxiliary lens with some kind of hanging mount like bent wire that would hold the lens in front of your iSight. Another simple method would be some kind of adhesive like double-sided tape or TAC Adhesive Putty.
Neither of these mounts would be very stable, esthetically pleasing, or permanent, but they could provide a quick, easy test to determine whether it would be worth the time and cost to develop a more elegant solution.
If you do try some of these suggestions, please post back your results. Whether you find what works or what does not, your information will be helpful to those who have the same need.
Cheers,
Jim
Mac OS X (10.4.9) G5 DP 1.8 External iSight

Best pratices for Wide Aperture lenses (what are ?)

Wide angle + wide aperture = rejected images in LPC.
What's recommended ?
- Use a chart (same size) with bigger squares
- Move less (right/left)
- Combination of both (!)
Wide aperture is where corrections are the most needed.
I'm surprised that the LPC algorithm doesn't start with
small aperture images and then finish with wider apertures.

I believe there is a recommendation in the shooting guide that suggests to use a checkerboard with a larger square when calibrating fisheye/circular fisheye lenses, because of the large amount distortion at the image periphery. The specification of the correct (smallest) screen size of the checker square becomes more important.

Best wide-angle lens for Canyon shots?

Hi Experts!
I'm a novice in photography and am going on a giant trip through Arizona/Utah this summer. I'll be visiting all the major Canyon National Parks (e.g. Grand, Zion, Bryce, Antelope, Arches, and more!) and would like a wide-angle lens for my trip.
I have the Canon Rebel SL1. The only lenses I have currently are:
18-55mm EF-S IS STM
55-250mm EF-S IS STM
18-135mm EF-S IS STM
I've never had a lens that DIDN'T zoom, but there have been many occasions I wanted a wider lens than 18mm. I have absolutely no idea where to start when it comes to looking for a wide-angle lens though.. I'd also be open to suggestions for a smaller range zoom if those are good too..?
Fast auto-focus is important for me since I'm usually on the go-go-go during my trips.
Any recommendations would be appreciated. Explanations of why would also helpful. Thanks so much!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

The best (and only actually) currently manufactured ultra-wide for EF-S cameras is the EF-S 10-22. Canon just announced a 10-18 STM that will be released soon, but that's probably still a month off. I still think the 10-22 is a better lens (for my needs), but the 10-18 comes in at a very good price point ($300) and adds image stabilization. But you'd have to wait for it.
Edit: I should say, the 10-22 is currently the only Canon manufactured ultrawide for EF-S. Sigma, Tokina, and Tamron also make options for slightly cheaper.

Would a Wide-Angle Lens work here?

Hi, everyone! This is my first post and excuse my ignorance but I need to see if you guys could help me with something. I just bought a T3i and I have no photography or video production experience but I'm really interested in getting my feet wet in both fields.
But anyway, I have a tripod and want to film my brother and I playing tennis. I always set the tripod up from a considerable distance but if we set it up in the middle we can only film one side of the court. Would a wide-angle lens be able to film both sides of the court at once?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Look online for sample photos illustrating angle of view.
You could get a 180 degree fisheye lens and sit it right at the net, but all objects other than those right by the lens will appear pretty small. Fisheye lenses also have fairly strong curvature effects. Also, there are two types of fisheye lenses... one type renders a full frame, rectilinear image, while the other type renders a round image.
While fisheye focal lengths appearsimilar to ultrawide lenses, at any given focal length actually a fisheye gives wider AOV than a non-fisheye lens. Canon now offers an 8-15mm fisheye zoom for example. But since it's designed for full frame cameras, it won't be as wide on your crop sensor camera (I don't have exact specs for it on a crop sensor camera, only full frame specs are listed). Tokina offers a 10-17mm fisheye zoom designed specifically for crop sensor cameras, and as such it can render 180 degree angle of view on your camera.
A non-fisheye ultrawide lens will have less curvature distortion, but will still have some at the extremes and also will have less wide angle of view. For example, the EF-S 10-22mm is the widest available Canon lens, giving 107 degree AOV at the 10mm setting. The widest non-fisheye lens made by anyone for use on your camera is the Sigma 8-16mm, which gives a 114 degree AOV at it's widest. With these ultrawide lenses, perspective distortion will still exaggerate perspective, making more distant objects look very small in comparison to closer ones... though it won't be as extreme as it is with a fisheye lens.
If this is a one-shot deal and the fisheye appeals to you, because a fisheye is a fairly specialized lens and you may want look into renting a lens for the purpose. An ultrawide non-fisheye such as the Canon 10-22mm is often more widely useful, so might be something you'd find a lot more use for in the long run, and want to purchase instead of renting.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Wide angle lense problem...

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for