Wifi Fix that works

At least it appears to be working right now.
From what I've seen there are lots of people who updated using the files that were available online before it was available through iTunes. Even if it's the 1,1 version it still needs to be restored from the file that downloads through the iTunes app. Seems to have worked for me after restoring a number of times the other way.

Did you also reset your router?
iOS: Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections

Similar Messages

  • Wifi fix that worked for me

    I did a reset using the "all settings" option and it seems to solve the weak wifi issue.

    What iPad update through itunes are you referring to please? I just synched and it says 3.2 is the latest update software for the ipad.
    Thanks
    JW

  • Is there such a thing as a USB WIFI adapter that works with OS X 10.9?

    Is there such a thing as a USB WIFI adapter that works with OS X 10.9? I have tried 3 different models, none of which were compatible. The built-in WIFI card in a 2012 Mac Pro is absolutely crap (0/10 on the performance scale). Any recommendations?

    Hey everyone, yes I have installed the drivers properly. I've used an ASUS, Bolse, and EDIMAX adapter. Some had a 10.8 driver, some had 10.9. After reaching out to customer support for each and every one of these companies for help, and through multiple returns, I have not gotten anywhere with any of the drivers or products.
    It's getting ridiculously hard to stay an Apple customer when the quality of their products are getting worse and worse, which leaves me no choice but to go to third parties to replace the faulty hardware.
    And honestly I'm just sick of calling India every day to get my issues resolved.

  • No Network Connection - happens repeatedly, only fix that works so far is a reboot. help?

    Hi!
    I have a Z30, and ever since I got it, I've received the following error :
    "No Network Connection.
    Make sure your device is sonnected to a network and try again."
    <Open Connection settings.>
    <Try again>
    The phone is connected to networks in all cases so far, and my wife has had no issues with her moto-x on the same verizon service/wifi networks that I'm using.
    When I first got the phone, it'd happen every 3 days or so. Now it's daily. I can make phone calls or send SMS, but anything to do with data is a no-go. Doesn't seem to matter if I'm home or work (both strong wi-fi), or out running errands with no wifi to connect to.
    I've reset the sim card a few times to no avail. I've tried to re-register with verizon's network a couple times too. No joy. Only fix seems to be restarting the phone.
    Is there a fix to this? It's getting really annoying, and is the -only- complaint I have with the fantastic phone.
    Thanks in advance!!
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    The order of potential fixes I would use, starting with the easiest and least invasive, would be:
    1.  Update OS to the latest available. 
    2.  Security Wipe of device to see if it's something in your data causing the problem.
    3.  Reload the OS with an autoloader. 
    I know number three would fix it but I wouldn't go that far unless the first two options are tried first. 
    1. Please thank those who help you by clicking the "Like" button at the bottom of the post that helped you.
    2. If your issue has been solved, please resolve it by marking the post "Solution?" which solved it for you!

  • IOS 6 Wi-Fi fix that worked for me.

    I just downloaded IOS 6 and my Wi-fi was not working correctly, everytime I tried to connect to Wi-Fi it took my to an apple page and never loaded wi-fi up.  Here's what I did to fix it.  Click on settings>Wi-Fi>Click blue arrow next to network trying to connect too>change auto-connect to on>scroll down and change HTTP Proxy to Auto.
    That worked for me to connect to Wi-Fi.  Hope this helps everyone, I know there's a lot of frustration out there

    What iPad update through itunes are you referring to please? I just synched and it says 3.2 is the latest update software for the ipad.
    Thanks
    JW

  • Wifi printers that work with BT Home Hub 2.0

    Hi,
    I am trying to find a wifi printer that connects easily and works with the BT homehub 2. I have tried an HP one with no success, could someone point me in the direction of a wifi printer that will work with the BT homehub.
    Thanks

    nicoleweems8935 wrote:
    will work with the BT homehub.
    (link removed)
    YAWN
    Here we go YET again!
    Unless you mean give it a good kickin...
    -+-No longer a forum member-+-

  • IWeb CPU usage, fix that worked for me

    On my MacBook Pro having iWeb open and idling with my relatively simple site would cause my CPU usage to hover between 35% and 50%. Pretty disconcerting since I have a 2.66 i7 model and 8 gigs of RAM. Some pages on my blog have a decent amount of text and pictures and typing became a one letter at a time event since the program would just drag. Very annoying.
    I did a lot of searching and finally found something today that worked for my situation. Since it took a bunch of time to locate a solution I figured I'd share it.
    My problem ended up being a font issue. I opened up Font Book and saw several errors with duplicate fonts. Since there were a few I just did a select all and then selected resolve duplicates from the menu. To be safe I rebooted but that may not have been necessary.
    Now iWeb idles between 5% and 10% which is much more reasonable. Not to mention now I can work on my site and have my battery last longer than an hour and a half!
    Anyway, I hope this helps someone.

    If doing so improved the situation, this confirms that one of Safari's database files has become corrupt and is causing the crashing, and this shows up in your crash log as Thread 3 having crashed.
    The blacklists from Google’s Safe Browsing Initiative (where Safari checks for 'fraudulent websites') are contained in a database cache file called SafeBrowsing.db - the file was created when you first launched Safari 3.2, and if you have the browser open, the file is modified approximately every 30 minutes.
    As an alternative to turning off 'Warn when visiting a fraudulent website', which will lose you that important security feature, you should delete that database file, (but first close Safari):
    Home/Library/Caches/com.apple.Safari (this is a folder)/SafeBrowsing.db
    It will be recreated next time you open Safari, and will then start again collecting details of dodgy websites.
    If you are interested:
    How the Anti-Phishing feature of Safari 3.2 works:
    http://www.macworld.com/article/137094/2008/11/safarisafebrowsing.html

  • Cant Buy January Update - a FIX that works

    Wow - so many threads about the infuriating January Update Buy button not appearing. Here is a solution that WORKS - thanks to Mr Alex Brophy, my new hero!:
    Go directly to the page that allows you to buy by clicking this url:
    http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=271872604&s=14 3441
    Click the Buy button, and agree to the terms (twice, it seems!) Now, the first time I did this, nothing happened, so I tried again- and it worked. Purchase history confirms only one $20 charge was made.
    Try it, everyone, it let me install the update with no restores or resets or anything,and the sync happened automatically once the purchase went through. Yahoo!
    (Now all I need to make me happy is 10.5.2 so Leopard can also work.)

    I live in a country which does not have iTunes Store but I can purchase a voucher from eBay. However according to Q&A from Apple:-
    "Gift certificates and gift cards purchased on the iTunes Store are valid for use only in the country in which they were purchased. Gift certificates purchased in the United States may only be redeemed by residents of the United States."
    Not only that, those who have access to iTunes Store are making unreasonable profits from selling those vouchers. A US$15 iTunes Store voucher is sold for $18.
    Can anyone CONFIRM 100% that the voucher I purchase from eBay actually can work? I doubt because before I can redeem the voucher from iTunes Store, I have to register first. And to register, I need a credit card which has a billing address in the US or a country which already has iTunes Store.

  • HTC Incredible reboot fix that works and does NOT require hard reset

    Like many of you unfortunate souls out there I have had my HTC Incredible go into a rebooting loop over the last month or so. The following recounts some observations and and a solution which appears to work.
    First off, my son and I both have the same phone and software versions and apps. He does NOT get email on his phone because he does not want to. I do. His phone has NEVER rebooted. Mine has done so numerous times. My business partner also has the identical phone and software version, lives within 200 yards of me,  and uses the email and has had numerous reboots and has gotten them even sooner than I saw them at first. My partner and I have set up email attachments and downloads to go to the SD card. So much for background info. Here is what I did to fix the problem followed by some other observations:
    Open up the case of the phone and remove the battery
    Remove the SD card from the phone.
    Put it into an adapter that allows you to access files directly on your computer. In my case this was a Windows PC running Windows 7.
    Mount the SD card in your computer and open up the browser to see the files on the SD card.
    Look for a folder called ".Mail"
    If your phone is like mine you will see hundreds of files, some of zero length. This was even though I had deleted most of the emails I received on my phone.
    Proceed to directly delete any of the zero length files. For that matter, you may have other files like jpg's laying around of uncertain origin. I got rid of these and other strange files that seemed attached to no documents at all.
    Remove the SD card and reinsert into your phone. Put the battery back in and the cover on then restart the phone. Your phone should run properly and you should not see any negative consequences from the files you deleted previously.
    Some other observations relevant to this solution that bolsters my theory that this problem has something to do with the email application and also a problem with file system corruption on the SD card as a consequence of it.
    I had previously seen the email application put some mail from a different account I was using into my main account. The files could not be deleted and even trying to do so would cause the mail app to force close.
    My son has never seen the problem despite being in the same environment with the same phone and software. Relevant difference to me was that he was NOT using email and I was.
    The email app clearly has bugs if it is leaving behind hundreds of files even if you delete the emails. Why? As a software engineer my first instinct would be to look to see if the file system locks were properly synchronized when the email app is writing to the flash file system. I am not conversant in Android OS programming nor the app code itself so this is speculative on my part. I would also look for a timeout on reboots if file system enumerations take too long. Lots of files on a system might trigger a premature timeout and reboot. Once again, this is speculative on my part but I sure wish I had the code to debug this myself.
    These issues seem to coincide with a rapid rise in network traffic most likely because of the iPad 2/iPhone support by Verizon. I wonder if this additional traffic load on the network is opening up timing holes in the software because of backoff and retry intervals for certain apps. Once again I suspect the email app especially because it is vulnerable to network traffic issues as it tries to get email account updates.
    I could be wrong about my theory as to why the problem is happening. My solution seems to work. As far as pulling the battery and putting it near your AC in the car, that did NOT work for me at all. Leaving the phone out of its protective case also had no effect. Only screwing with the files on the SD card mattered.
    I hope this helps. 

    This problem has been seen for MONTHS now by people besides myself. My business partner is about to put a bullet in his phone because this has been happening for far longer than mine. I have little confidence in a fix anytime soon because this problem has been persistent for some time and there is a lot of denial in the field by Verizon. Verizon has to depend on HTC and Google besides themselves for fixes. How much would you like to wager on how this business relationship is working out? The first step in any solution is for a company to take some responsibility for it and so far no company has.

  • A fix that works for your battery drain with iOS 8.2

    After I updated my iPhone 4s to the new iOS 8.2 I found my battery life had become terrible.  I could barely make it through an 8 hour day at work before my phone would die.  It was so bad that I had to get myself a second charger to plug it in during the day.  Even then, if I used the phone at all, it would still lose its charge while plugged in.
    Before this update, my phone would easily last through the day and would not need to be plugged in before I went to bed.  Even at midnight when I'd go to rest for the night, my phone was never below 70% and most times it would still be well above 80% but not so with iOS 8.2  So here is a fix I found on another forum somewhere.  I was desperate so I tried it and low and behold, it worked great.
    Here goes:
    Let your phone die completely until it turns off by itself
    Plug it in your charger until it comes back on again (around 6% for mine)
    Turn it back off using the top button and the slider on the phone
    Leave it plugged in for 2 to 3 hours or until you figure it would have reached 100%
    Unplug the phone and turn it on
    Now reboot your device (turn it off and back on again)
    That's it.  This fixed it for me and for many on the forum where this was posted.  My battery life is back to what it was before my update to iOS 8.2.  I have plenty of battery life left when I get home after work.
    Try it and pass it on....it works.

    Use the Settings app to determine what apps or processes are using your battery the most. Once you know what is causing the battery drain you can take steps to reduce it.
    Settings > General > Usage > Battery Usage
    Wait a few seconds for the device to bring up the list of apps with their battery usage.

  • Fix that works for my itunes/my-computer not recognizing 5G 60GB Ipod

    Hi:
    For me this fixed all problems with my own PC at work (when others in building worked fine). Turns out I had some networked drives and did not realize there was a conflict even.
    Russ Jacobson
    It is from the following help area on apple:
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93499
    Strange iPod behavior when Windows confuses iPod with network drive
    If the drive letter after iPod ("E" in most cases) is mapped to a network drive, both Windows Explorer and iTunes may exhibit strange behavior in relation to the iPod.
    Symptom
    One or more of the following occurs:
    * iPod does not show up in iTunes or as disk in Windows Explorer.
    * iPod does not show up as disk in Windows Explorer (even though disk mode is enabled on the iPod).
    * iTunes and Windows Explorer report the wrong amount of available space on iPod.
    * No songs appear on the iPod after an apparently successful update from iTunes.
    * Music copied to mapped network drive instead of iPod.
    Products affected
    * iTunes for Windows
    * iPod (all models)
    * Microsoft Windows 2000
    * Microsoft Windows XP
    Solution
    This issue is documented in Microsoft Knowledge Base document 297694, "New Drive or Mapped Network Drive Not Available in Windows Explorer".
    Changing the drive letter of your network volume should resolve the issue. If you are unable to change the drive letter of the network volume because your programs depend on a specific drive letter, then you can use the following steps to change the drive letter of your iPod instead.
    1. Open the Control Panel.
    2. Double click on Administrative Tools. Note: If you don't see Administrative Tools, look at the left column in Control Panel for a link that says, "Switch to Classic View," and click it.
    3. Double click on Computer Management.
    4. In the left column, click on Disk Management.
    5. Locate the iPod and right click on it, then click Change Drive Letter and Paths.
    6. Click the Change button.
    7. Use the drop-down menu to select a new drive letter. Note: Make sure to choose a new drive letter that is not already assigned to a network drive. The drop-down menu will display all available letters that are not assigned to a physical drive. Drive letters that are assigned to a network volume will still be listed here. It is also a good idea to assign a drive letter other than a, b, c, or d, as these letters are usually reserved for other system drives.
    8. Click OK.
    9. Click Yes on the confirmation dialog.

    Have you updated iTunes with the absolute latest software?  If you have not in a long time, your iPad won't be recognized.

  • IPhoto fix that worked for me (Coregraphics & Adobe Color Profiles issues)

    Ok, I posted a few days back in reference to getting help with my iPhoto. I do apologize on the fact this is quite the long post but maybe it will be easy to understand for those who are like me and not all that computer literate. I searched all the discussions and used all the different advice from different people but had no luck. I was able to FINALLY get iPhoto up and running again last night after doing just a few simple things. Please note that this may not work for everyone. Also please note that I AM NOT an expert in dealing with computers and working with computers. It's just that my ADD kicks in when something needs fixing and I won't stop till its finished. Below are a few lines from the crash report that I was getting each time I attempted to open iPhoto from my Macbook Pro Late 2011 running 10.8.3.
    Crashed Thread:  0  Dispatch queue: com.apple.main-thread
    Exception Type:  EXC_BAD_ACCESS (SIGBUS)
    Exception Codes: KERN_PROTECTION_FAILURE at 0x0000000000000024
      VM Regions Near 0x24:
    --> __PAGEZERO             0000000000000000-0000000000001000 [    4K] ---/--- SM=NUL  /Applications/iPhoto.app/Contents/MacOS/iPhoto
        VM_ALLOCATE            0000000000001000-0000000000055000 [  336K] ---/--- SM=NUL 
    Thread 0 Crashed:: Dispatch queue: com.apple.main-thread
    0   com.apple.CoreGraphics                  0x9678ec6c color_space_create_adobe_rgb_1998 + 28
    1   com.apple.CoreGraphics                  0x9666dd70 CGColorSpaceCreateAdobeRGB1998 + 32
    2   com.apple.CoreGraphics                  0x9642b46b CGColorSpaceCreateWithName + 652
    3   com.apple.geode                         0x01079d4a +[DGColorSpace initialize] + 1018
    4   libobjc.A.dylib                         0x90267600 _class_initialize + 305
    5   libobjc.A.dylib                         0x902674c8 prepareForMethodLookup + 78
    6   libobjc.A.dylib                         0x90267337 lookUpMethod + 81
    7   libobjc.A.dylib                         0x902672e1 _class_lookupMethodAndLoadCache3 + 47
    8   libobjc.A.dylib                         0x90266ac1 objc_msgSend + 81
    9   com.apple.geode                         0x010798a0 +[DGContextMgr newBitmapContextCached:accelerated:] + 61
    10  com.apple.geode                         0x0107985e +[DGContextMgr newBitmapContextWithAcceleration:] + 49
    11  com.apple.RedRock                       0x02647bf6 -[Godot loadGeode] + 1261
    12  com.apple.RedRock                       0x026448a8 -[Godot init] + 1571
    13  com.apple.RedRock                       0x026437d2 +[Godot initGodotApp] + 108
    14  com.apple.iPhoto                        0x00083be8 0x55000 + 191464
    15  com.apple.iPhoto                        0x0008236b 0x55000 + 185195
    16  com.apple.Foundation                    0x9a3bc4cf __NSFireDelayedPerform + 413
    17  com.apple.CoreFoundation                0x95ed1416 __CFRUNLOOP_IS_CALLING_OUT_TO_A_TIMER_CALLBACK_FUNCTION__ + 22
    18  com.apple.CoreFoundation                0x95ed0db5 __CFRunLoopDoTimer + 709
    19  com.apple.CoreFoundation                0x95eb5bc2 __CFRunLoopRun + 1842
    20  com.apple.CoreFoundation                0x95eb502a CFRunLoopRunSpecific + 378
    21  com.apple.CoreFoundation                0x95eb4e9b CFRunLoopRunInMode + 123
    22  com.apple.HIToolbox                     0x9052af5a RunCurrentEventLoopInMode + 242
    23  com.apple.HIToolbox                     0x9052abf5 ReceiveNextEventCommon + 162
    24  com.apple.HIToolbox                     0x9052ab44 BlockUntilNextEventMatchingListInMode + 88
    25  com.apple.AppKit                        0x923c39aa _DPSNextEvent + 724
    26  com.apple.AppKit                        0x923c31dc -[NSApplication nextEventMatchingMask:untilDate:inMode:dequeue:] + 119
    27  com.apple.AppKit                        0x923b963c -[NSApplication run] + 855
    28  com.apple.AppKit                        0x9235c666 NSApplicationMain + 1053
    29  com.apple.iPhoto                        0x00064c99 0x55000 + 64665
    30  com.apple.iPhoto                        0x000642e5 0x55000 + 62181
    -Run and attempt to repair any Color Profiles that may need to be fixed. There were 4 that could not be fixed for me. Locate these profiles and move them to your desktop (Note: I was still able to open and use all applications in my Adobe CS6 Master Collection after moving these profiles but you may want to check just to be sure if you are using Adobe).
    -Even though I had done this many times, run the Disk Utility App in your Utilities Profile and Verify and Repair any permission needed (For me, I had none at this time that needed to be repaired).
    -Next, I did an Apple Hardware Test. For me and the model Macbook Pro I am using, I had to restart my computer and when the screen went black for me at restart about the time the start up sound is about to come on, I pressed ALT-D. On some models you just have to press D. I did disconnect everything prior to doing this except the power cord and the Internet. I did a full AHT test that took about an hour or so. If you get an error code, be sure and right it down whereas your issue may be something different than mine and this will not apply to you. There were no problems from the test and then restarted the computer.
    -At restart I decided to get into the OS X Recovery by pressing Command-R to either start from scratch or find some other way to fix the issue because I was tired of racking my brain on this and was about to throw the computer in to the wall.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718 For help or questions on the OS X Recovery Process
    -Once in the OS X Recovery from the Mac OS X Utilities Pane, I selected reinstall and then I selected my current Hard Drive. Luckily by doing this (not that I was aware or anything, but none of my files or folders were deleted and it only reinstalled Mountain Lion and whatever else it needed)
    -This process took about an hour and once finished, I restarted my computer
    -I logged back in to my account but did not attempt iPhoto at this time. Instead I immediately checked to make sure that 10.8.3 was what was reinstalled back on my Mac. I then checked for Software Updates which I had a few and installed these updates.
    -I then went back to the Disk Utilities App from my Utilities folder and Verified the Disk and Disk Permission. To my surprise, many of the files that were in the iPhoto crash thread (posted above) were now showing up as needing to be repaired. I repaired what needed to be repaired.
    -I verified all my Color Profiles to make sure none were showing up again (which there were none that needed to be repaired)
    -I did a check check of some Adobe CS6 Apps just to verify they were opening and working correctly
    -I restarted my Mac (Once again) and logged back in. I opened up iPhoto and everything worked and is working PERFECTLY. I then re-connected my printers and my Time Machine and performed a back up before importing photos back in to iPhoto. I DO WISH NOW THOUGH THAT I HADN'T DELETED AND RE-INSTALLED IPHOTO but it is nice being able to start over and organize iPhoto a little better than before.
    I am sorry this is such a long post but for people like me who are not professionals in the computer department, sometimes it's good to "dumb" things done so that us "average joes" can understand a little better. Hopefully this will work for those who are having issues like mine. Thanks for all the help from everyone from my previous posts.

    Tom:
    To help prevent loss like you experienced see the tip at the end of my signature.
    Do you Twango?
    TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
    I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

  • A FINAL FIX THAT WORKS

    Go to
    http://discussions.apple.com/messageview.jspa?messageID=3349822&stqc=true

    Geez...
    When I tried to quote the original post, the function truncated apparently it... or maybe I did by accident...however, the original post:
    A FINAL FIX
    Posted: Oct 16, 2006 7:45 AM in response to: Tagliente Reply Email
    After much arguing on the phone with apple support, I got a straight answer. The problems are due to old iTunes software and virus protection.
    1) Uninstall iTunes, Apple Update, and Quicktime using the 'Add/Remove' software option in the control panel.
    2) Open your program files folder (Found in My Computer in the C: drive)
    3) Delete any folders that may be left such as iTunes, ipod, Apple Updater, Quicktime)
    4) Download the iTunes 7 install package from the apple website (http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/). Be sure to save the file to your desktop.
    5) Exit your web browser
    6) Turn off all virus protection software. This includes firewalls, spyware protection systemguards, etc. The “how” to do this depends on your virus software. For example, with McAfee open the Security Center and click Computer and Files. Click configure. The new window has the options to turn things off. Turn everything off.
    7) Install iTunes 7 (includes Quicktime [needed for iTunes])
    8) Restart
    9) Turn virus protection and firewalls back on
    10) Plug in iPod and you’re golden!
    This worked for me and I no longer get any messages about iPod in recovery mode or unable to update iPod.
    Good luck.
    Windows XP
    By the way, I think I clearly stated in my post that when trying to update my nano from version 1.2 to 1.3 (after being prompted to do so from launching itunes 7.0.1.8) it will not perform the suggested update offering up a cryptic message about the files on my ipod being in use by another program.
    Now, if you have any constructive ideas, it would be appreciated...

  • Safari fix that worked for us after persistent crashes

    In trying to back up all files on our G4 Powerbook in case our hard drive was crashing (we had tried fixing permissions, reinstalling Safari after using Pacifist to take it out of one of the software updates, resetting Safari, boosting Safari's database storage cache, and then were having Google Sketchup starting to crash as well) we got this message during the backup - 'Unable to read the file cookies.plist'. Since I'd tried resetting Safari I hadn't thought this file might be the corrupted one. I went to Library/Cookies and threw the file away and now everything's fine - Safari and Sketchup are both working. Good luck!

    If doing so improved the situation, this confirms that one of Safari's database files has become corrupt and is causing the crashing, and this shows up in your crash log as Thread 3 having crashed.
    The blacklists from Google’s Safe Browsing Initiative (where Safari checks for 'fraudulent websites') are contained in a database cache file called SafeBrowsing.db - the file was created when you first launched Safari 3.2, and if you have the browser open, the file is modified approximately every 30 minutes.
    As an alternative to turning off 'Warn when visiting a fraudulent website', which will lose you that important security feature, you should delete that database file, (but first close Safari):
    Home/Library/Caches/com.apple.Safari (this is a folder)/SafeBrowsing.db
    It will be recreated next time you open Safari, and will then start again collecting details of dodgy websites.
    If you are interested:
    How the Anti-Phishing feature of Safari 3.2 works:
    http://www.macworld.com/article/137094/2008/11/safarisafebrowsing.html

  • Imac 24" late 2007 with image persistence -- any fixes that worked?

    So there seem to be quite a few people with screen burn-in/image persistence on their imacs. I am one and I have tried Apple's solution as documented in:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2807?viewlocale=en_US
    I've tried the white background for a few nights, no go. I also always had screen sleep set to 10 minutes.
    The image persistence I get look like left over text/window borders and smudges much like these:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulbeattie/3672732489/in/set-72157620740779954/
    I have also tried jscreenfix and LCDscruber on various patterns for a few days now and I can't get rid of these artifacts.
    I suspect heat may be part of the issue. If I leave the imac off overnight and turn it on in the morning, my screen is fine. Wait a bit for it to warm up and the image persistence is back, however, turning up the fans failed to resolve the issue. Room temp is not bad -- about 26c. I've also tried cleaning out dust, but that didn't change anything.
    Has anyone with this problem actually gotten it fixed? What worked?
    Message was edited by: taii: Just to add, the location is just about dead center and spreads out roughly 4 inches in any direction. This puts it around the hard disk. The hard disk temp is 58c. The CPU and GPU temps are at 49/63c. The power supply is at 78c. This seems a bit high? The powersupply is in the upper left corner though and there is no image persistence in that area.

    Hello
    I don't have any exact figures as how much the temps went up as i didn't monitor it that closely before, as everyone who owns a iMac knows they can get quite hot.
    Last night when i checked the temp on the GPU was 78 degrees celcius and i belive that thats a good 8-10 degrees more that it normally was with Leopard.
    If i try and hold my hand behind the screen to the left where i believe the power unit is located it gets to hot for me to keep my hand there for more than a few seconds at a time.
    I don't have the other numbers available right now but i can post them tonight when i get home.
    I also had the problem before Snow Leopard but not as bad as with Snow Leopard. When i was using Leopard it normally took quite a long time for the problems to occur. I almost only got them if i wasn't using the computer and the screensaver or power saver for some reason failed to start, it was also quite easily fixed by just activating the screensaver or powersaver for a while.
    My conclusion is as follows:
    1. The iMacs has probably always had persistance problems.
    2. The iMacs gets quite hot
    3. After Snow Leopard the Imacs gets even hotter and this affects the percistance problems so that they grow worse
    All this accordign to me is clearly related to the hardware itself, i.e poor cooling, poor quality components and so on, nothing points to this being a user or usage problem and i therefor think that apple should address it accordingly.
    I'm in Sweden and my nearest Apple Store is quite far away and getting hold of someone at apple in sweden to discuss this matter with is easier said than done.

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