Windows File compatibility, my iPod, and other questions

After years of gripping about doing Video and Photo editing on my PC, I am considering switching to a Mac. But, given I have a heavy investment in PC hardware, I want to make sure I can leverage everything the best way possible. So...
1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or anything?
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without problems?
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time (for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's without a problem?). What about jpg formatted pictures? Any nuances between PC and Mac formats? (or is jpg really just jpg on either machine...I can open up the same picture on a Mac and a PC and see the exact same picture, without major color changes, etc.).
I realize I need to reformat to FAT, but other than that, are their other problems I should know about? (I would like to use the RAID configuration to make sure I don't lose any data)
That should start for now...
Thanks - Jeff
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac

1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem
using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or
anything?
You can use it, and it will need to be reinitialised formatted for the Mac.
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without
problems?
No you can't access ActiveX websites with a Mac
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in
RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage
network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time
(for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play
them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's
without a problem?).
Yes
What about jpg formatted
pictures?
Yes
I realize I need to reformat to FAT,
If the computer will still be running Windows and acting as a server then no you won't need to reformat to FAT.
iFelix

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Windows Vista 64bit OS, NVIDIA and other questions.

I have a few questions I hope someone can answer.
Can I run 64bit Vista in Bootcamp?
If I wipe my harddisk and install 64bit vista and have a Windows only machine would that allow me to use different NVIDIA grpahics cards such as 9600GT?
I would imagine that the limitation of graphics cards are only due to driver compatability with MAC and qualification process?
If I wish to expand storage are there any sub 1TB drives that can use a 32MB cache? It seems only the 1TB/32MB cache is qualified with MAC. Is this another limitation that I could get round by running Vista 64bit.
I am not trying to start a flame war. I am only looking for sensible answers.
Thank you.

Can I run 64bit Vista in Bootcamp?
Yes. Both the computer and OS X are fully 64-bit compliant.
You can install a second video card that does not work with OS X but does work with Windows. Third-party video cards do not work with OS X because they do not have the EFI boot ROM required by OS X. They will, however, work when you boot into Windows. You do not need to convert the Mac Pro to a Windows-only machine which would seem a waste of perfectly good hardware and software.
You can install any SATA hard drive in the Mac Pro. There is no limitation with regard to size. Cache, however, is a feature of the drive and not the computer. Apple does not "qualify" drives for use with the computer.
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HT203167 I have a ton of files on my iPod and just got an iPhone. Last time I updated all my files were lost; how do I prevent this from happening again?

I have a ton of files on my iPod and just got an iPhone. Last time I updated all my files were lost; how do I prevent this from happening again?

Max,
It really can take very long to import and process so many images - I would not dare to make a prediction.
Can you open the Activity Viewer?
From Aperture's main menu bar: Window > Show Activity.
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if you are seeing, that the import is still far from being finished, you might to pause certain tasks directly from this panel, like the generation of previews or scanning for faces. I'd let the import run, if you see that it is making progress.
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Am having all kinds of trouble enabling Home Sharing on Apple TV. Had been working previously, but now I am unable to share files between TV, Ipods and iMac. I have tried restarting all hardware, systems and connections. I recently upgraded modem?

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Trying to download songs on iTunes and it's asking for "my 1st car I owned" and other questions that I never answered. It won't let me download anything til I answer them. Can you help me?

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Is the disk equal to log files and other questions?

In the web page http://www.oracle.com/technology/documentation/berkeley-db/je/GettingStartedGuide/introduction.html#dplfeatures, there is a statement, " The checkpointer is responsible for flushing database data to *disk* that was written to cache as the result of a transaction commit ".
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory.
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I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor.
Thanks for your help!
Best,
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Jiangfan Shi wrote:
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory. Yes.
I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor. Yes.

Click wheel ipod and vista question

Hello, I have a 4G click wheel 40 gig ipod (updater version 3.1.1) and I have been using my mothers computer which has windows xp and i haven't upgraded itunes to the version 8. I was given a new computer (32 bit) which is running windows vista basic. My question is am I going to have problems with using vista basic and my older ipod? I have heard that it was turning older ipods into bricks and have been scared to transfer everything over to the new computer.
Also, I am using it with an Alpine KCA-420i (got it the same time as the ipod) in the truck, and it worked great for a while and for the past two years it freezes up, skips songs or just won't work and was wandering if it was due to upgrading itunes? The last time the ipod was updated was for the version it is running now.
I am trying to be careful with my ipod since it got frozen during an ice storm (no electricity for nine days) and left in the truck in bellow freezing temps for a couple of hours. The hard drive didn't appreciate it and is now not really working all that great. clicking, whirling ,grinding noises ya give it a couple good whacks on the back or sides it starts to work again. I read some post on reformatting the disk, last time i tried it the ipod froze but now i am going to try again. I did the diagnostic mode solution and it keeps getting frozen in the HDD scan.
Sorry this is long, but if anybody has any suggestions or answers that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Cinamon

I don't have a guide or anything, but it is almost as easy as replacing it with another hard drive, and there are online guides for doing that, for example
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Device/iPod4th_Generation_orPhoto
Be sure to use those plastic tools. If you use metal ones, you will damage the iPod's case.
And it's a Compact Flash card that I used, not an SD card (which is smaller). Compact Flash cards 16GB and below are getting affordable (if you shop around online), although 32GB and higher ones are still expensive. 4GB cards are very cheap, so you may want to try it with one of those, to confirm it works, since it is always possible there are other problems with your iPod.
1. Get one of these adapters, or equivalent. It's $5 with shipping included.
[CF Compact-Flash SSD To Toshiba IPod 1.8 inch Adapter|http://cgi.ebay.com/CF-Compact-Flash-SSD-To-Toshiba-IPod-1-8-inch-Adapt erW0QQitemZ180303249125QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPCA_Cables_Adapters?hash=item29fae93ee5& _trksid=p3911.c0.m14&trkparms=72%3A1240%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A2% 7C294%3A50]
The listing above on eBay is the same item from the same seller as the one I bought.
2. It fits in the iPod case with only one minor mod. There is a pair of jumper pins, used for the master/slave setting; you can see it on the image in the listing (on the left side). You want it with the jumper ON, for the master setting. It sticks out too much, so I just bent the pins 90 degrees with needle nose pliers, and the jumper still fits. If your 4G iPod is the 40GB model, it has the thicker drive and case, so it may fit fine without bending it over.
3. Connect the Compact Flash card to the adapter and connect the adapter where the 1.8-inch hard drive was connected. You need to put something non-conducting between the logic board and the adapter/CF card. A stiff piece of paper (like a business card) would work; I cut a piece of clear plastic from the +impossible to open without hurting yourself+ packaging material that most tech products come packed in these days. Cut it to the right rectangle shape to fit between the logic board and adapter/CF card without sliding around.
4. The adapter plus CF Card is much smaller than the hard drive, so you need to fill that space to avoid it rattling around. Cardboard pieces would work, but if you want to take advantage of the lighter weight, get something light. I used some of that flexible foamy packing sheets that are used to wrap around delicate items for shipping. I cut appropriate size pieces to take up the extra space. I put one layer between the adapter/CF card and the logic board and the rest between the adapter/CF card and the metal half of the case.
Then, you just connect the iPod and run a Restore, as if it was a regular 4G iPod. The three key advantages are better shock resistance, lighter weight, and no drive spin-up delay. The only real disadvantage is lower capacity, unless you get a more expensive CF card with higher capacity.
Note to other readers: I also tried this retrofit with an older 3rd gen iPod. It did not work for me and the parts I used; I could not get the iPod to format or restore with the Compact Flash card inside.

Windows disk-scanned my iPod and now iTunes can't recognize it.

I have a 80gb iPod classic with version 1.1.2 PC installed. Yesterday when I was booting my computer up, Windows decided it needed to check one of my disks for consistency (no points for guessing what "disk"). It gave me the message Unrecoverable error in folder \iPod_Control\Music\F00. It then converted that folder to a file, and then did a lot of chain cross-linking and orphan-truncating. The upshot of this is, now my iTunes can't find the iPod when I plug it in. I've done everything the support base file said on when Windows recognizes the iPod and iTunes doesn't, and nothing's changed. Should I just try to recreate the missing folder? Rest assured, first thing I'm doing once I can get iTunes and the iPod talking to each other again is a full restore. Any help would be fantastic.

Took my own advice and created a new F00 folder. Upon reconnecting, iTunes recognized it instantly. Restore is already underway. Thanks for listening anyway.

Distiller 9 not properly installed and other questions

I'm beginning to think I may have gotten a bad installation disc.
I'm Running CS3 on a MacBook Pro, with OSX 10.5. When I got the installation disc for Acrobat 9, I followed the directions for removing Acro 8 and installed Acro 9. I came across a need to print a pdf file from MSWord, part of the Office 2004 package. Word was still trying to use the Acro 8 pdf maker. I informed Word that Acro 8 was no longer available, and went to tell it to look for Acro 9. Word then informed me that Acro 9 Distiller was not properly installed. Has anyone else experienced this? It's either an Acro 9 issue or a MS issue. I'd be curious to know which, before I get totally frustrated and remove Acro 9 in favor of Acro 8.
Has anyone else come across this message? (Wording not exact) You are about to start Acrobat 9 for the first time, do you want to continue?" Before you start replying to this one, I saw it when I launched Acro 9 for the first time, as everyone else. I saw it again the next day, and the day after, and several times since then. It doesn't show every time. It seems to happen more often when I launch Acrobat by launching a file created by a previous version of Acrobat and the file launches Acro 9. Seems like it happened with a Acro 9 created file as well. When I launch Acro9 as an application, and not as a result of double clicking a file to launch the application, I don't get the message.
Minor question: Did the "Getting Started Window" get left out of the Mac version?
thanks
pj

Hi Mike,
I'm going through the process of trying all the ways pdf files are supposed to be created. I was going to use the PDF Maker button. Not working, I'm not one to give up, I will sometimes threaten the computer with a rocket launcher. Most of the time, the computer sees things my way and cooperates, this time is different.
I went to file > print from work and selected Acrobat 9 as the printer, then I was directed to locate Distiller. So thinking "no big deal," I went to locate Distiller 9 so that I could print pdf files using Acrobat's virtual printer, and got slammed, Distiller 9 not installed properly.
http://www.creativehwy.net/ScreenErrors/Acro9Errors.html
If you'll check the link I've posted, you can see, the Distiller is grayed out, I cannot select it in order to use Acrobat 9 as a printer from Word. I can do a file > print from Word and in the lower left, select a pdf option, create pdf or create postscript file with any of the other printers selected. While most of the time, I'll get a good conversion on the pdf file, as a prepress technician, it leaves my mind to wonder if it's going to work every time. Some of these printers that I have drivers for have hard set margins, so there is a concern that some data might get clipped when generating the pdf file this way.
Oh My! Was just looking at the screen shot, and it might open a can of worms or it might not, I wonder if Acrobat Distiller should be renamed to Adobe Acrobat Distiller...

What is the "iTunesControl" file on my iPod, and what does deleting it affect?

Hello,
I just bought an iPod Classic 160GB Slim (newest model), and I'm using it in manual sync mode on my Windows 7 PC with iTunes 11. I just noticed that it has a file named "iTunesControl" (149 MB large) residing in the "ROOT\iPod_Control\iTunes\" folder. In contrast, the iTunesDB file in the same location is only 52 KB. It's worth to note that I have only put a double disc album (27 songs totalling around 144 MB) on the iPod so far.
I found various posts online indicating that the "iTunesControl" file is usually around 20 MB in size, so why is mine 149 MB? Is this normal??
Also, what does this file do anyway? And will it balloon in size as I add more music to the iPod? What would deleting this file affect?
Thank you for your help.

It's not usual, or necessary for you to be looking in the Root folder of an iPod. If you delete a file like that, don't be surprised if your iPod stops working. One thing you will notice (in the capacity bar shhown when you connect the iPod to iTunes) is that some space on the iPod is used by "Other". This is data that the iPod uses for control etc. and its size does vary, and change. The only time you need to do anything about the "Other" is if the space it's taking up on your iPod exceeds 1GB or so. (Especially when you have a 160GB iPod with just 27 albums on it.)
Use iTunes to manage your iPod - it will do everything you need.
My advice is that you learn to use the Sync method (no such thing as manual sync) to manage your iPod.
Import your music into iTunes
Edit any of the music information you need to, in iTunes
Create, alter/mange your Playlists in iTunes.
Connect your iPod to iTunes and allow a Sync to occur.
Eject your iPod
Use your iPod
Subsequently:
Add new music, albums, songs and any other media to your iTunes Library.
Edit the data in iTunes
Change your Playlists to add the new songs and remove other songs etc.
Connect iPod to iTunes and allow the Sync to occur.
Eject your iPod
Use your iPod.
Ongoing:
Have a play with things such as Smart Playlists and leearn how they work and how much you might like using them.

MacBook Pro 13" Hard Drive and other questions

Hi there,
I've just purchased a 13" MBP which I absolutely love but have a few questions about upgrading it. I want to swap out the hard drive for a larger capacity but just want to make sure I purchase one that will fit.
I'll number the questions for ease of answering.
1. Will this hard drive be correct? I know it's a 2.5" SATA but I didn't know if the dimensions are ok for the 13" MBP.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-Scorpio-Black-WD3200BJKT-internal/dp/B001FBJJQ4
2. Will the difference between a 7200rpm 16MB cache drive and a 5400rpm 8mb cache drive be noticeable? I can get a 500gb slower speed drive for the same price and while the capacity increase would be useful, I would prefer a faster drive if it's noticeable.
Many thanks

That article I believe to be incorrect! The author never mentions which Scorpio drive....Blue or Black. The Blue does not contain a free fall sensor option as the Black is available with our without free fall sensor. The free fall sensor will interfere with the Sudden Motion Sensor (SMS) built into the Mac. SMS can be disabled but my experience first hand with the Scorpio Black in my MBP 13 was not good even after disabling the SMS and merely using the free fall sensor in the Black. If you want a 7200 RPM drive and you like West Dig get the Black without the free fall sensor. You will be much happier. I run the Black in several Windows Laptops and it streams fast then the 7200.4 which I also have in a windows laptop and the scorpio black performed better and more stable! I just dont think I personal would not use it on the MBP 13...I took mine out for it was problematic!! If you want a 500 GB go with the Fujitsu or the Hitachi...even the the Western Dig Scorpio Blue with does not have a free fall sensor. The author of that article mentioned ShockGuard that is not a Free Fall sensor and only engages durring spin up or down as well as parks when it is off. This does not sense a fall like the SMS or a built in free fall sensor. Many MBP unibody owner have used the Blue and it has been hugely successful!!! My experience which is very extensive with Seagate as of late has not been favorable. I do not like the latest generation of drives they are producing we are seeing extensive failures (higher % compared to other OEMs). Stick with those three.
If you want battery life, the Fujitsu or Hitachi are very good choices Fujitsu being a little better
For speed the WD Blue is best on synthetic tests but it is a little power hungry. I am sticking with the Fujitsu in real world test it seemed to do better than the others...H2Benchw it wasnt as good. PCmark it did very well. The Gaming, Video and other test it seemed to do well on but not as good in the h2Benchw.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/mobile-hdd-notebook,2305.html
Great info!!!

Capture Sharpen (and other questions)?

I have been a very big advocate of capture sharpening for fine art workflow for more than a few years now (landscape fine art gallery enlargements). I was under the impression that in ACR (7.1) by using the Radius to the left (0.5) and Detail to the right (100) I was maximizing the deconvolution aspect of sharpening and maybe even drawing out a hair more real detail from the raw file.
Today I did a test on a high frequency raw image (trees) and had my settings at Amount 45, Radius 0.5, Detail 0, and masking at 20. But then I also did it on the same image, this way: I brought a second version of the raw file into PS with no capture sharpening, and saved it as a tiff, then I brought that tiff back into ACR 7.1 and then did the capture sharpening. In Photoshop CS6 I put them on top of each other as layers (one raw sharpened and one tiff sharpened) and at all viewing distances they were exactly the same to my eye (I did notice that the histograms of each were very, very slightly different).
But I could not see a single pixel or edge change anywhere in the image even at 1600% viewing distance. This seems to blow away my impression about deconvolution sharpening actually drawing out more real detail from a raw file. I totally understand that sharpening is not real detail, but on this forum years ago I came to believe that somehow a bit more real detail might be accessed in raw by the aforementioned settings. Any thoughts?
Second question: do you really think there is a quantitative quality difference in detail (or the illusion of) in an image that has capture sharpening applied in ACR (7.1) at its native size, then is enlarged substantially with further rounds of sharpening and grain simulation in the end (versus just sizing it up soft and doing all the sharpening at the end)? I did testing on this years ago and it seemed to be noticably better overall. I guess I'm just second guessing it again.
My basic workflow is capture sharpen Radius 05. / Detail 100, then upsize with Smoother (40, 50, 60, 70 inches...) then do some moderate high pass, then advanced use of unsharp mask (LAB - L channel - or Luminosity - RGB - also blending/blend if sliders for fall off if necessary) then ACR grain simulation (on a seperate layer - not to create grainy photos - but create the illusion of more detail and to camouflage artifacting). I believe after years of testing and practice this seems to be about as good as it gets for my content.
Lastly, smart sharpen... I have not used this much, but do you think this workflow might benefit from using it instead of USM (with the more deconvolution - lens blur/more accurate) type of sharpen near the end)?
Side note: for those involved with focus bracketing (for increased depth of field with the sharpest f/stop) it is common knowledge that capture sharpening at the raw stage (before the Auto Align and Auto Blend in PS) confuses the auto blend algorithm as to what are the real sharper pixels. So, we don't capture sharpen those images (this is common practice).
And after blending the images (Auto Blend) we usually just size up (for enlargement) and go. Now I am thinking that after the focus blending is finished and the file is flattened it might be a good idea to bring that tif file back into ACR and apply a little bit of capture sharpening before the upsize. Does that make sense to you?
Cheers for your time and feedback!
Message linebreaks added by: PECourtejoie

Disclaimer: I did not entirely understand the original post, and maybe some of this does not apply in your multi-step process, so take with salt...
ACRFREAK wrote:
With low ISO shots (100) I always try to use the least noise reduction possible in ACR (less is more approach) which means on correctly exposed images ("to the right") on Canon cameras, my ACR settings are often 0 on luminance and 0-5 on color noise.
At ISO 100, I rarely use any luminance noise reduction, however my experience is that even under ideal circumstances including low ISO, a modicum of color noise reduction is still essential for optimum image quality. - it is almost never desirable to set color noise reduction to zero, IMO - YMMV. (Note: in NX2 - you don't even get a choice about it - (true) color noise reduction will be applied, as Nikon sees fit).
Note: ACR's color noise reduction algorithm is image adaptive (it's more "aggressive" on higher ISO shots). You shouldn't see much (if any real) detail loss with color noise reduction at 25 on ISO 100 shots, eh?
ACRFREAK wrote:
My theory is that I am trying to keep a much of the fine detail as possible. Also the reason I like the 0.5 radius and 100 detail.
In my opinion, ideally, the sharpen settings should depend on the photo - type, and inherent focus... (.5/100 may be great for ultra-clean, ultra-sharp landscapes, but may not be appropriate for portraits...)
But different strokes for different folks. (and I don't know what kinds of photos you mainly (or only) shoot).
Rob

IPOD and iTrip Question

I just received my 5th Gen Ipod Nano 16gb yesterday and when trying to listen to it in my car using my iTrip, the sound is completely flat and non-bassy. I noticed that the problem was gone once and the sound was fine/full-sounding, but evidently whenever I use the onboard speakers beforehand, the sound in my car (using the itrip) is completely flat and basically sounds like the speakers. Even turning the sound completely off on the iPOD (doesn't affect the volume on the radio) does nothing!
Is anybody experiencing this problem?
Please Help.
Message was edited by: MPLSshutdown

There are limitations on what the iTrip can exactly transmit through the airwaves to your stereo...
As bass is possible but again depends on the radio transmission strenght and format.
Have you tried any additional channels? and which version of the iTrip are you using? I've used some with my older classics and thought that the iTrip worked quite well with the edition that I used for that edition.
Also, have you played changed the iPod from it's standard Equalizer settings? If you have the equilizer in the iPod enabled, try disabling it. Equally if you don't feel like your getting enough base try enabling it to see if the change helps with the sounds.... It could be based on the radio, reciever and transmitter...
As some of the newer cars have the antenna buit into the back window, some ontop and others on the front hood... I've used the iTrips with the cars with the antenna on the hood and the iTrip/iPod up on the front dash/cupholders... No issues with them in the past.
Let us know some of the details to try and assist you furhter.

Thunar without XFCE, can't eject iPod and other travails.. [solved]

I'm trying to get my Thunar set up to where it automatically shows my ipod when plugged in, but I can right click the icon to unmount it as well.
I used the udev wiki to add a set of rules for automounting usb devices, so my ipod now automatically loads, but there are two problems.
1. There are two icons for the ipod in the Thunar shortcuts pane. One says Apple iPod and shows an error on left click of 'Failed to mount "Apple iPod Music Player" - Given device "/org/freedesktop/Hal/devices/ volume_part1_size_41094144" is not a volume or drive.'
2. The second icon shows the name of my ipod and I can click it to view the drive, great, but on right clicking and choosing Unmount Volume, it shows an error of 'Failed to unmount "iPod" - The volume "iPod" was probably mounted manually on the command line.'
And a seperate, but perhaps related problem is when I press the eject button on my CDROM drive, an error shows as 'Failed to eject "/org/freedesktop/Hal/devices/storage_mode_DVD_RW_ND_3540A". Right clicking the icon in Thunar and choosing eject does work for this, though I'd prefer to be able to use the eject button.
Does anyone have any ideas on a way to fix these problems?
Thanks!
Last edited by oksana (2007-08-21 22:39:03)

Nonono...there's a bug with thunar-volman and ipods that causes them to load twice and whinge about it. Note that loading two devices is, as far as I know, the intended outcome, since ipods have a mysterious second partition for storing the hopes and dreams of steve jobs himself. I don't really know what it's for, but you can use an hal policy file (fdi file) to prevent hal from loading it.
The bug has to do with thunar-volman trying to load it and failing. You can view the bug here:
http://bugzilla.xfce.org/show_bug.cgi?id=2789
Actually, that's a command. You'll need the first two diffs for the fix: thunar-volman-mount-only-mountable.diff and thunar-vfs-add-is-mountable.diff
First, we'll fix thunar with the following PKGBUILD:
# $Id: PKGBUILD,v 1.8 2007/06/01 22:28:43 tobias Exp $
# Contributor: Andrew Simmons <[email protected]>
pkgname=thunar
pkgver=0.8.0
pkgrel=5
pkgdesc="new modern file manager for Xfce"
arch=(i686 x86_64)
license=('GPL' 'LGPL')
url="http://thunar.xfce.org"
groups=('xfce4')
depends=('exo>=0.3.2' 'shared-mime-info' 'pcre' \
'desktop-file-utils' 'libexif' 'hal' 'fam' \
'startup-notification')
makedepends=('intltool' 'pkgconfig' 'gtk-doc')
patchname=thunar-vfs-add-is-mountable
options=('!LIBTOOL')
install=${pkgname}.install
source=(http://www.xfce.org/archive/xfce-4.4.1/src/Thunar-${pkgver}.tar.bz2
thunar-vfs-add-is-mountable.diff )
md5sums=('9f7b0945d6a235391049f6818fb4d188' 'e16532876e24ec10549b274baf262f73' )
build() {
cd ${startdir}/src/Thunar-${pkgver}
cp $startdir/$patchname.diff $startdir/src/Thunar-${pkgver}
patch -Np0 -i ${startdir}/src/Thunar-${pkgver}/${patchname}.diff || return 1
./configure --prefix=/usr --sysconfdir=/etc --libexecdir=/usr/lib/xfce4 \
--localstatedir=/var --disable-static \
--disable-gnome-thumbnailers --enable-exif --enable-pcre
make || return 1
make DESTDIR=${startdir}/pkg install
sed -i 's:x-directory/gnome-default-handler;::' ${startdir}/pkg/usr/share/applications/Thunar-folder-handler.desktop
Stick thunar-vfs-add-is-mountable.diff in the same directory, and add the install file (call it thunar.install):
post_install() {
update-desktop-database -q
gtk-update-icon-cache -q -t -f usr/share/icons/hicolor
post_upgrade() {
post_install $1
post_remove() {
update-desktop-database -q
gtk-update-icon-cache -q -t -f usr/share/icons/hicolor
op=$1
shift
$op $*
and makepkg -i to install it. Now let's tackle thunar-volman.
First the PKGBUILD:
# $Id: PKGBUILD,v 1.6 2007/04/16 18:41:24 tobias Exp $
# Contributor: Tobias Kieslich <tobias (at) archlinux.org>
pkgname=thunar-volman
pkgver=0.1.2
pkgrel=4
pkgdesc="automatic management for removeable devices in thunar"
arch=(i686 x86_64)
url="http://xfce-goodies.berlios.de/"
license="GPL"
groups=('xfce4-goodies')
depends=('thunar>=0.8')
makedepends=('intltool' 'pkgconfig')
options=('NOLIBTOOL')
patchname=thunar-volman-mount-only-mountable
install=${pkgname}.install
source=(http://download.berlios.de/xfce-goodies/${pkgname}-${pkgver}.tar.bz2 thunar-volman-mount-only-mountable.diff)
md5sums=('910de35c398f70b66b38803bdfdd26f1' 'b7ee9150294f772ed08129fd08328b9d')
build() {
cd ${startdir}/src/${pkgname}-${pkgver}
cp $startdir/$patchname.diff $startdir/src/${pkgname}-${pkgver}
patch -Np0 -i $startdir/src/${pkgname}-${pkgver}/$patchname.diff
./configure --prefix=/usr --sysconfdir=/etc --libexecdir=/usr/lib/xfce4 \
--localstatedir=/var --disable-static
make || return 1
make DESTDIR=${startdir}/pkg install
Then add the thunar-volman-mount-only-mountable.diff file, and the install file (call it thunar-volman.install):
post_install() {
gtk-update-icon-cache -q -t -f usr/share/icons/hicolor
post_upgrade() {
post_install $1
post_remove() {
gtk-update-icon-cache -q -t -f usr/share/icons/hicolor
op=$1
shift
$op $*
and makepkg -i again.
They also provide an fdi in the bug report to prevent the extra piece from mounting, but I haven't gotten it to work. At least the bugs are gone.
BTW I found these trolling through the ubuntu gutsy launchpad.

Windows File compatibility, my iPod, and other questions

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