Wingman and Rumble

Does anyone know if one of these, http://ec3.images-amazon.com/images/P/B00005USQA.01.SS400_SCLZZZZZZZ_V1098901110.jpg, a Logitech Wingman Cordless Rumblepad, works with Mac OS X 10.4.x? Is the rumble feature supported? It isn't the latest version of the gamepad (which I gather doesn't have a working rumble feature as yet with Mac OS X), but I can get hold of it for a decent price second-hand if it is compatible.
Any help most appreciated.
iMac Intel Core Duo Mac OS X (10.4.8) 17", 512 MB

Oops! Thanks ~JJG~. The link should be as follows...
http://ec3.images-amazon.com/images/P/B00005USQA.01.SS400_SCLZZZZZZZ_V1098901110.jpg
Hopefully there is someone out there who has used one of these with a Mac.

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Power hungry

I have the Vantec 520W stealth power supply and notice that it regularly dips to 11.43 on the +12V and 4.84 on the +5V rails.
I wondered if this was Ok and E-mailed support from Vantec and they stated that it was acceptable but it was on the low end and that I should monitor it and if it went to 11.4 to RMA it, but 11.43 is low enough I think to give me screen coruption upon intial startup with my new Powercolor 9800Pro 256MB card.
I have been monitoring it at 11.43 and the corruption just happened. This is the second day and first sign of trouble.
Card runs fine. Maybe a hickup?
Well I am RMA'ing the Stealth anyway as Newegg will take it no questions.
I also just purchased a new Enermax 550 Watt to replace it as from what I read it is a fine power supply.
I am curious if I can O/C better as I think the low V output has hampered the board.
my two other comps have the 430watt Enermax and read both over 12V on the +12V rail.
Would this also be trouble for me trying to use game port with Audigy2 Platinum as I can't seem to free up resources to allow it to load properly even though I disable numerous items.
Thoughts.....

Running Sata and plugs in the way.
No biggie on the game port though as I am also running logitech wingman remote rumble pad connected to USB 2.0 self powered hub.
I did try to remove it along with comm port 2 and even the floppy controller and floppy.
Actually i had removed almost everything but still would not allow to load steering wheel setup in game port.
I am more worried about sufficient power to the system so that is why I am going to try new better P/S.
Won't hurt to try with a P/S putting out +12v plus, hopefully the Enermax 550 watt P/S will do that.
Having a spare P/S with three system is not a bad idea anyway.
I do like the ac outlet software controlled with the Vantec.
I really didn't like the corruption shown upon startup last night but disappeared upon restart, probibly cause power supply was still running with restart and maybe sudden cold start caught the low 12V enough to make the Video card act up.
never happened with the Pny Ti4400.
the powercolor 9800 Pro 256 has run beautifully since Monday and throwing all my fast games at it with high resolution. Quite an amazing card really.

Audio CD burn in iTunes not working

Has anyone had this issue? My Superdrive seems to work fine reading and burning DVDs and data CDs, but burning an audio CD leaves nothing but heavy hiss and rumble.
I've tried telling the burn to burn at 4x speed, 8x speed and maximum, no difference; I've used Verbatim CD-R and Maxell CD-R, no difference.
The Superdrive is a Matshita UJ-846. In iTunes prefs, I have Importing set at MP3 encode and lowered the sample rate from 192 kbps to 160 (but that should not affect the burn anyway, correct?).
I've posted this in the appropriate iMac discussion group as well.
Any suggestions appreciated, and thanks.
iMac 17 Dual Core Mac OS X (10.4.7) G5 Dual 2.0, Dual 1.8

Aell, I answered my own problem. I remembered back to the old Macs I have used and thought about one common resolution to problems...for misbehaving apps, delete the preferences file then relaunch to rebuild the file. For Tiger, preferences are plists.
That solved the problem and all is well once again!

Cannot purchase error on app store then eventually account locks out

Hi,
Whenever I download a paid or free app front the app store on my iPhone I constantly get the message "cannot download metal storm wingman and 8 other apps" then after a few times of this appearing my account gets locked out.
Why does this keep appearing and how can I stop it!?

the app store takes me to this dead link
It's not a dead link. Your Internet connection isn't working properly. Restart the router and the broadband device, if they're separate. If there's no change, see below.
Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a diagnostic test. It’s unlikely to solve your problem. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
The purpose of the test is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party software that loads automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually login automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of the test.

CC updater for CS6 not working

Just got a notice that there's an update available for PS CS6 through the cloud. It churns and rumbles for several seconds and then tells me there's an error. See... for details. The details don't tell me anything I understand. (U44M1P7) Then clicking 'see details' takes me to a folder of log files that are all Greek to me.
Ironically, the description for the upgrade in the cloud window says its for 'bug fixes'... Looks to me like the 'bug fixer' is bugged itself! Are some of the government web contractors/programmers working for Adobe now?
Wassabe?

Are you an active CC subscription user?
Please provide us with the following logs.
You can find them at:
PS patch Installer logs
For Mac:
Library\Logs\Adobe\Installer
For Win:
Program Files(x86)\Common Files\Adobe\Installers
AAM logs
For Mac:
/Volumes/%Volume Name%/Users/%Username%/Library/Application Support/Adobe/AAMUpdater/1.0
For Win:
C:\Users\<username>\AppData\Local\Adobe\AAMUpdater
You can zip all the files together and send us through mail. This would help us in finding the root cause.
Appreciate your help. Apologize for the inconvenience.
Regards,
Ashutosh
[email protected]

Mastering audio for impact...

I am mixing a video for a large screen display in a 1000 seat auditorium.
Program will be projected from a DVD source (amongst 5 other programs).
My video /audio content includes presenter (synch) plus FX and music.
Music is percussive , bassy , fast , dynamic. ("U2 like sound"). FX. are clean and clear and distinctive. Presenter is cleanly recorded on location.
I am looking to maximise audio impact to support the images ...and ensure it is played loud. ( I wont be there and have any control of the volume).
All tracks pre mix will start at Unity and are 48khz - 32 bit
What should I set or maximise peaks to? ( 0db, -3db, -6db ?)
Should I use some compression on the Master Mix?
Will use some dynamics and Parametrics to clear the SYNCH out from the music. Is this good practice?
Tips appreciated.
BTW - normally I would leave this to my pro audio colleagues in their ProTools Suites but this job was bit budget constrained and I also wanted to learn a bit more about audio engineering and ake on a new challenge.

Some good ideas so far.
I do a lot of theatre work, both producing tracks for playback and also doing the FOH mixing itself.
When doing things for PB in an auditorium, I tend to use a bit more mastering compression than I normally like--there's always a bit more background noise going on--audience shuffle and coughing, background hiss and rumble from the ventilation, sometimes noisy moving lights, etc. A normally wide dynamic range often means the quiet bits get lost in the shuffle.
For your mix of voice and music, yes do add a bit of light compression on the voice at that point as well--just enough to keep the necessary clarity compared to the music. I'm going to disagree with some previous advice here--I do tend to use EQ to take down some of the midrange in the music, just in the frequencies that aid intelligibility in the voice. Just a little of this goes a long way--you don't want the music to sound obviously "wrong" but a bit of EQ can really help the voice to stand out. You mention parametrics but I'd normally use the graphic EQ for this--guess either would work but I'm a creature of habit.
Yes, at the end of getting it to sound right, you can normalise to -0.1dB. As has been said, whoever is running the PA will control the overall level and may tweak your dynamics so mainly make it sound good in the edit suite...but don try for too many subtleties

Attaching images while in Thunderbird

Can someone please clue me in to how I attach an image while I am in an email handler such as Thunderbird?
I'm very used to writing an email, thinking I need to include a photo to help explain something, and then I hit "Attach" and rumble through the oh-so addled set of folders on my PC.
Is there a way to do something similar but scroll through my iPhoto library as a kind of nested routine while in my email handler...?
Thanks,
Jonathan

There are many, many ways to access your files in iPhoto:
*For Users of 10.5 and later*
You can use any Open / Attach / Browse dialogue. On the left there's a Media heading, your pics can be accessed there. Command-Click for selecting multiple pics.
Uploaded with plasq's Skitch!
(Note the above illustration is not a Finder Window. It's the dialogue you get when you go File -> Open)
You can access the Library from the New Message Window in Mail:
Uploaded with plasq's Skitch!
*For users of 10.4 and later* ...
Many internet sites such as Flickr and SmugMug have plug-ins for accessing the iPhoto Library. If the site you want to use doesn’t then some, one or any of these will also work:
To upload to a site that does not have an iPhoto Export Plug-in the recommended way is to Select the Pic in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export and export the pic to the desktop, then upload from there. After the upload you can trash the pic on the desktop. It's only a copy and your original is safe in iPhoto.
This is also true for emailing with Web-based services. However, if you're using Gmail you can use iPhoto2GMail
If you use Apple's Mail, Entourage, AOL or Eudora you can email from within iPhoto.
If you use a Cocoa-based Browser such as Safari, you can drag the pics from the iPhoto Window to the Attach window in the browser.
*If you want to access the files with iPhoto not running*:
For users of 10.6 and later:
You can download a free Services component from MacOSXAutomation which will give you access to the iPhoto Library from your Services Menu. Using the Services Preference Pane you can even create a keyboard shortcut for it.
For Users of 10.4 and later:
Create a Media Browser using Automator (takes about 10 seconds) or use this free utility Karelia iMedia Browser
Other options include:
1. *Drag and Drop*: Drag a photo from the iPhoto Window to the desktop, there iPhoto will make a full-sized copy of the pic.
2. *File -> Export*: Select the files in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export. The dialogue will give you various options, including altering the format, naming the files and changing the size. Again, producing a copy.
3. *Show File*: Right- (or Control-) Click on a pic and in the resulting dialogue choose 'Show File'. A Finder window will pop open with the file already selected.
Regards
TD

Macbook pro dvd-rom buzzing sound

When I put a dvdrom into mymacbook pro it buzzes and rumbles a little. Is this normal?

Ok i just tried a dvd movie and it doesnt do it.. but I tried to insert a dvd that was a game (2 different ones) and it did the buzzing noise.

Zoom q2hd

Hi everybody!
I just bought an audio/video recorder, Zoom Q2HD. I'm using it as an external USB mic, but there is always a lot of noise, and I don't know why. Anyone can help me?
I work with a MacBook 13'' from 2012.
Thanks!

This probably an issue with the device itself. Don't own one, but this might be of help:
"The Q2 also comes with a cool low-cut filter. The input settings allow you switch it on, which reduces background noise and rumble without hurting the audio too much. You can also enable auto-gain, but I found it’s best to use headphones to monitor the levels and adjust accordingly." [source]

How to reduce background noise using garageband?

I have a video file that contains quite a bit of background noise (just basic camera noise mostly) and I was wondering how to reduce or remove that using Garageband. I have read in other discussions that I could use the graphic equalizer, but I don't know what that is or how to use it. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I could get rid of this background noise?

oz-macnut wrote:
Ryan
I'd suggest looping a piece of silence in your sound in Garageband (using the c key to turn cycling on) and listening to just the background noise. Then open a 31-band EQ as an effect on the track and start pulling down frequencies. If it is mainly hissing and rumble, you might be able to eliminate much of it using EQ.
Another solution is to open the Visual EQ and check the analyze box, and then loop/cycle play back your track so it loops just the silence with noise. This will allow you to see in the Visual EQ window what frequencies make up your background noise. Then I'd suggest using a 31-band EQ and gently start pulling down the frequencies that are dominant in your noise. Go carefully and listen as you do it, you might be affecting they sound that you want.
To avoid making the audio you want sound thin and hollow, think about these aspects:
For male voices, most of the wanted sound is between 125 Hz and 8 KHz
For female voices: between 300 Hz and 12 KHz
So basically drag the faders on the EQ on the frequencies outside this range. I'd suggest a 45 to 60 degree slope down on the EQ, so it's not a harsh transition.
It does depend on your source audio. Is it music? Speech? I use the above as a guide You have to experiment and listen as you go. It helps to turn the EQ on and off during playback to hear the before and after your adjustments too...
This is great, oz.
But do you have a video showing how it is done ?
My source are vocal singing ...
Thanks

Synchronizing audio AFTER in the timeline

Is there any way to sync audio to a clip AFTER it is in the timeline?
Here's what happened in my case.
I have video clips with embedded audio on them. As I was editing with them, I noticed that the audio levels were low.
I now have the stand alone audio from the recorder that has MUCH better levels recorded on it, but I cannot find a way to sync it to the clips I already have in my timeline. Is there any way short of syncing them, and manually finding the in and out points again on the newly created "synchronized clip" and doing a replace edit? Seems like a lot of work and not very precise. Can I in any way replace the audio married to the clip with the new audio and have it sync without creating a new clip?
Another question for the audio guys. Would adjusting the "Loudness" setting on the original clips to increase their levels lose me quality over replacing them with the audio files from the recorder?
(Our setup on set, btw was a Fostex recorder and boom mic recording to CF cards, and audio was feeding out of that into our F900 camera (so all of the clips have sync sound as well. The audio that hit the camera though, is significantly quieter than the individual sound wav files off of the Fostex)
Hope this makes sense, and thanks!

You said ...
Another question for the audio guys. Would adjusting the "Loudness" setting on the original clips to increase their levels lose me quality over replacing them with the audio files from the recorder?
(Our setup on set, btw was a Fostex recorder and boom mic recording to CF cards, and audio was feeding out of that into our F900 camera (so all of the clips have sync sound as well. The audio that hit the camera though, is significantly quieter than the individual sound wav files off of the Fostex)
I will let the other guys address the syncing of a standalone audio track to your video. There are many ways to do that, and I do that all the time just by aligning the waveform features then pulling the video audio part down to -96dB. You could take all that into a compound clip afterward ... But ...
Regarding the question you asked above. You Fostex will usally record much better audio than any camera audio circuitry. I use standalone Tascams to record audio then marry it to the video afterward ... makes a much better experience for the viewer. Your audio level on the Fostex, being much higher in level, will help things, but I still use Loudness on dialog clips. I don't do anything with commercial music tracks because they have already been maximized for loudness and mixed for proper dynamic range and limiting and compression, etc.
In general you will probably like your audio if you (1) apply loudness, (2) change the volume level slider in inspector to make your timeline audio waveform to where it just rarely touches red peaks ... this usually means the level is around +1dB on the volume level. Then, make sure you have only the channel selected in your Dual Mono settings under the audio tab, which has an actual audio waveform. Uncheck the one that does not have a waveform if this applies to you then recheck your volume levels.
Finally, (3) pull over the Adaptive Limiter form the audio section of the effects browser onto your clip ... use it's default settings. This will add a soft-knee roll off to your louder peaks while leaving the lower features untouched. I prefer this method to compression because limiters to not boost the noise levels as much as compressors do. Then, to end up, simply check the volume levels for the whole thing again to make sure you are not above 0dB to +1dB.
If you have special requirements for voices and dialogue, you can use the audio enhancements section and the little EQ icon on the right to open up an EQ feature. Select 31 band instead of the default 10 band setting then do the following: Increase 3,100Hz by about 6dB to add a degree of excitement to the speaker's voice. Roll off every frequency below 100Hz by about 3 to 4 dB to reduce the "mud" and rumble. For a male speaker, boost 250Hz by about 3dB ... for a female voice boost 350dB instead. Then boost 20KHz to add presence to the audio.
This is probably a lot more than you need, but you will end up making your audio almost as good as it can be by following these basic principles. Your mileage may vary
Best wishes.

Looking for Rickenbacker sound as software instrument or sample library

Hi everybody,
does anybody here know if there is any kind of software instrument pout there or a sample library that can be used for a (demo) substitution for a Rickenbacker bass guitar sound?
You know, this incredibly and unmatched elastic and rumbly bass guitar sound that can send your stomach on a roller coaster ride...

Hey Trey,
Are you looking for loops to create music, or pre-existing music beds? For loops, I've used bandmate loops - http://www.bandmateloops.com - most of them sound really good to me. I don't really use music beds in my projects.
If you're looking for sound effects and don't need loops, STP can work with several formats, so there are the large cd libraries if you're looking for lots of (expensive) choices, or if you just need a couple of sounds you're not finding, you could try a site like http://sounddogs.com. They have thousands of downloadable effects, and you pay based on the number and length of the effect. I've used them before, and they were really convenient. They also might have music beds available, but they most likely won't be in apple loop format.
Hope this helps!

My headphone audio output on imac makes a very loud low freg buzzing sound.

I have my Imac hooked up to my home studio for recording music. It is currently hooked up to my high quality rane mixer, which has superior sound quality. But for some reason every time I plug a cord into the headphone jack to my mixer, TV or anything else from the Imac headphone jack, it comes out with a very loud low frequency humming/buzzing noise even on very low volume settings, even with the bass turned all the way down. It is extremely annoying. Does anyone else have this problem? I would expect a little more from apple products. Especially with something simple like this, since these machines are mostly designed for video/audio production. . I have tried switching my cords around and changing my setup for months now. No luck. And, no, my imac does not have an optical out and I think that would probably solve the whole problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading.

Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
Do you have your recording equipment isolated from the computer equipment? These buzzes and rumbles are usually easily solved by making sure that your audio equipment is plugged into a different electrical circuit than the iMac.
However, yes your iMac does indeed have digital audio. I do not know of an Intel model that does not have digital audio. The audio ports do both analog and digital audio. To use digital audio you need a Toslink cable with a miniplug adapter on the iMac end of the cable.
Such as this;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00016W6Y6/pfrd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00016W67I&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rdr=063C32X7YE311VH2T7WY
Dah•veed

Disappearing SuperDrive

My SuperDrive stopped accepting CDs/DVDs. The motor simply wouldn't activate and "grab" them. Following advice elsewhere in these threads, I zapped the PRAM. I thought it worked, because it accepted the first DVD I inserted after the restart.
Then...it disappeared. There's no icon onscreen indicating an onboard DVD. Pushing the Eject button does nothing. I can't "Trash" the disc because there's no icon to drag.
I looked for the optical drive in System Profiler > Hardware > ATA and the system reported "No information found." Under Disc Burning, it said "No burning device was found. If you are using an external device please make sure that it is connected and powered properly."
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Matthew

Well I'll be doggoned. The DVD optical drive on my iMac "woke up" and is functioning normally again, after a coma that lasted several days. I was able to retrieve the DVD that it "ate," and play DVDs and CDs normally. It reappeared in the System Profiler menu also.
Now, by "normal," I don't mean healthy. It has always had a tendency to vibrate and rumble much more loudly than any other optical drive I have used, and often expels CDs/DVDs at an a alarmingly high temperature. I had always attributed this to the hot-running G5 processor, but could it be the drive itself needs a tune-up? Is that much vibration and rumbling a sign that something really is wrong?

Audio CD burn from iTunes not working

Has anyone had this issue? My Superdrive seems to work fine reading and burning DVDs and data CDs, but burning an audio CD leaves nothing but heavy hiss and rumble.
I've tried telling the burn to burn at 4x speed, 8x speed and maximum, no difference; I've used Verbatil CD-R and Maxell CD-R, no difference.
The Superdrive is a Matshita UJ-846. In iTunes prefs, I have Importing set at MP3 encode and lowered the sample rate from 192 kbps to 160 (but that should not affect the burn anyway, correct?).
Any suggestions apprecaited, and thanks.
iMac 17 Dual Core Mac OS X (10.4.7) G5 Dual 2.0, Dual 1.8, G4 DP 1.25 (all at work)
iMac 17 Dual Core Mac OS X (10.4.6) G5 Dual 2.0, Dual 1.8

Found the answer. Had the OSS 3D plug-in installed from my original iMac G4, came over with the firewire drive image.
Deleted all things OSS 3D, and it works fine. Might help someone else.

Wingman and Rumble

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