Wireless Mouse disabled

My MBP throws an error everytime I connect my Wireless Mouse USB to it and I could see that the device is disabled and doesn't work any more on any machines connected.
Here is the error message I got: "Because a USB device was drawing too much power from your computer, one or more of your USB devices have been disabled."
Mouse: Targus AMW063AP
Any ideas on how to get it working?
Thank you in advance.

Try Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)

Similar Messages

  • Wireless mouse and Keyboard Issue after closing the lid - external display

    Can anyone give any insight. Recent purchase of a new Late 2008 15" MBP. I have connected it to an external 24" Apple monitor on my desk and use a wireless mouse and wireless keyboard on my desk top. I have configured the laptop to wake on bluetooth devices. So here is the problem: The laptop when the lid is up recognizes the bluetooth keyboard and mouse. I close the lid/screen. Laptop powers down... the after several seconds I move the mouse and the laptop comes alive... But after that there are no bluetooth devices attached. When I use the mouse, I get "connection lost" with a white figure of the mighty mouse on the screen. The wireless keyboard is not there and I have to open the lid and manually find the mouse and reconnect. The keyboard seems to work however....
    Apple..... any thoughts..... anyone?????

    Hi Stentdoc; I'm thinking, 'connection lost ~= sorta low AA batteries in the Mighty Mouse? (I would put in fresh AA batteries in the mouse and keyboard, to eliminate as an issue that the 'connection lost' is due to low batt voltage; that this is causing the failure to wake.) ... then, in System Preferences > Hardware > Energy Saver, settings for Power Adapter > Sleep, set to "never" for "Put the computer to sleep when it is inactive for ..." to eliminate that as a conflict when trying to wake with bluetooth from sleep induced by closing the lid ...
    Check your current "Sleep" setup (I left my MBP as "3")
    go to Utilities > Terminal
    After you launch Terminal, the first step is to determine which sleep mode your Mac is currently using. You can both view and change the sleep mode using the Unix program pmset. To see your current settings, type (or, copy and paste)
    pmset -g | grep hibernatemode
    press 'enter'
    You should see something like this:
    $ pmset -g | grep hibernatemode
    hibernatemode 3
    So your machine is using mode 3 ... thanks to the documentation for the handy Deep Sleep Dashboard widget, which puts your machine immediately into hibernation mode (so you don’t have to yank all the power sources to invoke it):
    * 0 - Old style sleep mode, with RAM powered on while sleeping, safe sleep disabled, and super-fast wake.
    * 1 - Hibernation mode, with RAM contents written to disk, system totally shut down while “sleeping,” and slower wake up, due to reading the contents of RAM off the hard drive.
    * 3 - The default mode on machines introduced since about fall 2005. RAM is powered on while sleeping, but RAM contents are also written to disk before sleeping. In the event of total power loss, the system enters hibernation mode automatically.
    also, I enabled this (to change back, input "lidwake 1":
    go to Utilities > Terminal
    type in sudo pmset lidwake 0 then "enter"
    it will ask for your password. type it in, that's it!
    Now, when your computer is sleeping with the lid closed, when you open the lid nothing happens until you press any key ... nice: keeps it off when accidentally opened, like in a backpack?
    WARNING: Improper use of the sudo command could lead to data loss
    or the deletion of important system files. Please double-check your
    typing when using sudo. Type "man sudo" for more information.
    To proceed, enter your password, or type Ctrl-C to abort.

  • Need help identifying Apple Wireless Mouse

    I was given a PowerBook G4 laptop at a recent Mac user group meeting.  My plan for the computer is to donate the laptop and the parts and pieces given to me to a local agency.  The agency will then give it so some family that needs but can't afford a computer.
    The computer came with Tiger, and I have the disks.  But the (presumed) original owner has installed 10.5 Leopard and I have the disk for that.
    In looking around Apple, I think this is a bluetooth version of the Mighty Mouse.  But I've been unable to locate a photo that matches this mouse.
    It looks like a Mighty Mouse on the outside, but remove the battery cover and it doesn't match any photo and/or manual I've found.
    At the end of the mouse where the sliding switch/LED cover is located, and under the cover, there is a sliding switch marked + and -.  On the batt cover, the Model is A1015 but a search has returned 0 results. 
    I assume that to turn the mouse on, you slide the cover to expose the LED light.  And, the light should turn on.  But, it doesn't.  The batteries are good.
    In looking at the mouse, I think the sliding cover should depress what I'll call a switch, ahen when I manually depress the switch, the LED turns on, and is discovered.  Without the light on, the computer will not discover the mouse.  After discovery, and continuing to hold the switch down to keep the LED on, the mouse will not pair up to the computer.  Just for FYI, I get the same results trying to pair to my iMac with Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
    Which leaves me with the following questions:
    Is this a Mighty Mouse?
    Is there a manual and/or photo of this mouse somewhere?
    Should the red LED turn on when the sliding cover exposes the LED?
    Will it only work with Tiger?
    Is there something small that is missing from the battery cover that would depress the switch properly?
    Does it only work with Tiger?
    What does the switch with the + and - do?
    Ken

    Hi, twtwtw,
    well, without having it in hand I can't really see how it's supposed to attach or what exactly it does.
    Photos of the battery cover and spring disasembled and assembled.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/lpw15yseg0a5w2m/Battery%20cover%20unassembled.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/56sbnv31usewthr/Battery%20cover%20assembled.jpg
    I just have the pieces laying in the correct position, no permanent repair.  Would have simply thrown them on the scanner, but the all-in-one unit with scanner that was installed was removed yesterday to be donated with the laptop mentioned in my original post.
    The round end of the spring pops the battery cover off when the latch is released.  The other end depresses the switch in the mouse when the slide in the battery cover is moved.
    it looks like they can be taken apart - there's a teardown of a different model at ifixit.com, which you might be able to adapt.
    The wired version of a mouse similar in construction to that unit came with my iMac.  When the trackball stopped scrolling, I found out you had to end up using Super Glue to reassemble, and that's no way to design a product, IMO.  But, I always hated that mouse, it didn't fit my hand, and typing on the keyboard reminds me of the horrible "chiclet" keypads of yesteryear, and I replaced both with an old Apple Pro keyboard and a Microsoft USB wireless mouse that actually fit my hand!!!  What a concept!  
    The thing at the top (between the +/-) looks more like a latch than a switch to me.  is it holding the bottom plate in place? 
    There is the proverbial Tab A on the cover that fits into Slot B on the mouse, but the the sliding thing does nothing to affect the tab/slot that I can determine.  Possibly, it may control the amount of movement vertically you apply to get a "mouse press", but at the moment I've not tested that theory.
    I think the +/-  bit really is just a guide for battery installation. 
    "Illogical", as Mr. Spock would say.  The orientation of the +/- is 90º to the battery installation.  And both batteries are installed with the + end towards this end of the mouse.
    if attaching the the piece of metal is just a matter of broken pins, though, you could try super-gluing it in place.
    Super glue was my first thought, but spring steel is hard to get liquid type adhesives to adhere to.  I also thought of using Gorilla Glue, if you're familiar with it.  It's hard to find stuff that Gorilla Glue won't bond to with some degree of success.
    I dug out my freestanding magnifier, and it almost looks like the "pins" probably had an upper, smaller in dia. part, that may have been melted over the spring to hold the spring in place.
    and no matter what you say, tape is always an option. 
    LOL!  Hope that was a joke for real, as that never an option for my repairs.  If done, it's cheap and cheezy, as if you don't care what kind of workmanship you have.
    With respect to the link...  did you seriously keep hitting that link and sitting through the sarcasimation, rather than typing the words into a new google window yourself?  Heck, you could have copy/pasted the text instead of typing it, or bookmarked the resulting google page for future reference, or..., or... 
    To start with, Google is almost never my search engine of first choice.  Why?  I've not trusted them with anything since they were caught violating privacy issues, more than once.  My first choices are DuckDuckGo, Startpage, and IxQuick, because those search engines do not track your searches and surfing habits.  Where I go and what I do is no one's business.  I don't want that info given/sold/stolen by marketers, spammers, scammers, hackers, et. al.
    Startpage and IxQuick appear to be from the same folks.
    So I have all the trackers blocked as best as possible, Javascript disabled, etc., which makes getting the encrypted URL to work is, well, extra work.    Simply copying and pasting the encrypted URL is therefore blocked.  I see no value other than shorter typed links in email, forums, newsgroups, etc. to the shortened links, plus making bucks for the folks at TinyURL and others that create them for you.  And of course, they are tracking you to.
    So, as you may have guessed by now, I do not use Safari.   <grin>
    I didn't plan on doing it more than once, but had to when you replied.  And I've already got too damned many bookmarks. 
    Dude.
    And I'm neither a Dude or Dudette.  But been online before there was a world wide web, and a 1200 baud modem was state of the art.
    It seems to me that you are suffering from a chronic case of missing-the-point.  The first time you clicked that link it was me wasting your time; my bad, but gotcha, laughs all around.
    Did not miss the point, and I am not laughing.  Wasting the time of your friends is one thing, wasting the time of strangers is simply bad manners.
    Any time you clicked it after that you knew what was going to happen, so you were wasting your own time.  You're complaining that your time is being wasted because you just won't google it yourself - what am I supposed to do with that except ?
    I will plead guilty to assuming that Apple would have documentation on their own website, n'cest-ce pas?  (To save you some Googling and unencrypting URLs, http://www.yourdictionary.com/n-est-ce-pas)  If Apple had the info on their site, the seach engine would/should have found that link, and I would than have wasted my time with a Google search when it shouldn't have been necessary.  I learned a long time ago, to always, always check the mfgr.'s site first for the correct information.

  • Have to connect my wireless mouse each time

    Hi,
    I happen to be one of those people who shuts down my iMac at the end of each day of work. When I arrive the next morning and turn it on, it always says it cannot find a mouse to connect to.
    (I'm using Snow Leopard and a mouse that's probably more than a year. Also use a wireless keyboard which always connects automatically.)
    Even though my mouse is switched on, I always have to shut it off and turn it back on. Then my iMac finds it and connects to it.
    I have tried clicking the mouse to make the green light come on (I'm guessing that's what "make it discoverable" means--activate it in some way??)
    So is there any way to remedy this? It's getting really tiresome. Thinking of going back to the wired mouse.
    (I actually had this same problem when I first starting using the wireless mouse and stopped using it because I didn't want the hassle.)
    Thanks for your help!

    No. I, myself, made the mistake of assuming Discoverable meant the mouse, or whatever Bluetooth device you have paired, is discoverable and, therefore, needed so the computer can find it. That's not what it means. It means the computer is discoverable by other devices. And, other devices would include someone else nearby attempting to hack in by way of Bluetooth. I suppose if you live on a farm in Utah with the nearest neighbor fifty miles away, it's a moot point.
    I just realized what discoverable means because someone's SMART Phone in a nearby apartment yesterday was attempting to pair with my computer, I think quite by accident. I got a message to that effect and denied. It may also have meant that they left their phone, unwittingly, on Discoverable. In any case, Discoverable should be disabled
    On further research, I found that it's also advisable in Bluetooth Prefernces> Advanced to leave "Blutooth-PDA-Sync Modem" in "Serial ports that devices use to connect to this computer" unchecked (the default is checked, so uncheck it) and "Share my Internet connection with other Bluetooth devices" unchecked, as well.
    "Open BT Setup Assistant at startup".... "Allow BT device to wake" and "Prompt for all incoming audio requests" should all be checked.
    If your mouse is paired and made a Favorite, you should not drop the connection. Mine is now set up as above and I'm not having any issues staying connected.
    Perhaps leaving "Open Bluetooth Setup Assistant...."  checked, the default, presents a security risk. For the time being, I'm leaving it checked.
    See (scroll up a bit to page 17 to see the beginning)
    http://books.google.com/books?id=x3jWs7735WgC&pg=PA18&lpg=PA18&dq=uncheck+Blueto oth-PDA-Sync+modem+osx&source=bl&ots=JRvkm-rB17&sig=ITTmnKr3sKUWsR0Ge0RLW2kTw2Y& hl=en&ei=Z2dxTv_aH8Pb0QG-042OCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CB4Q 6AEwATgK#v=onepage&q&f=false
    On a related note, in SysPrefs>Sharing, uncheck everything, if not needed.

  • 0A36188 wireless mouse issue

    I'm on a steep learning curve with the T431s. I am not able to "connect" the laser wireless mouse for use. What is the easiest installation method for the wireless mouse, that I may properly use it with the T431s? New machine and batteries.
    Thank you....

    Thanks for the response.
    But ...
    Carolyn Samit wrote:
    Try cleaning your Mighty Mouse, instructions here.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3226
    I do that regularly.
    (But I fail to see how that should help with a bluetooth connection issue ...)
    When you have Bluetooth connection issues, try re-pairing the hardware using the Bluetooth Setup Assistant.
    Sorry, I forgot to mention that I did that at least twice, to no avail.
    When there is a that "hickup" I've described, then Bluetooth Setup Assistant does not find the mouse at all. Power cycling the mouse does not help. Disabling bluetooth on the laptop and enabling it again does not help.
    Regards,
    Gabriel.

  • Wireless mouse will not work at the top of the page on ANY website while running Firefox 7.0.1

    I am currently running Firefox 7.0.1 and have not had many problems until today. I have noticed that my wireless mouse will not work at the top of any website. This means I cannot log into many sites. I have also noticed that during page downloads, I have to move the mouse in order for the page to load or it just pauses. Any help would be appreciated!

    If it does work in Safe-mode then disable all extensions and then try to find which is causing it by enabling one at a time until the problem reappears.
    *Use "Disable all add-ons" on the [[Safe mode]] start window to disable all extensions.
    * Close and restart Firefox after each change via "File > Exit" (Mac: "Firefox > Quit"; Linux: "File > Quit")
    Se also:
    *https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes

  • Wireless Mouse  Issues on Restart with Snow Leopard

    I have a late 2006 iMac (2.15 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo) with an Apple wireless mouse. I just installed Snow Leopard and everything seems to be fine with one exception. Upon Restart, the mouse becomes disabled. The only way to get it to work is to move the slider under the mouse back and forth--that seems to re-establish the connection at least until the next time I restart.
    Has anyone else experienced this issue? Is there a solution?

    This is also happening on my MBA(1st gen). Wireless keyboard as well.

  • Qosmio G50-12Q - Screen saver doesnt work if I use wireless mouse

    I have a Toshiba Qosmio G50-12Q
    If you use a wireless mouse does not work the screen saver.
    If I disable the mouse instead of the screen saver runs regularly.
    There is some way to run the screen saver also using a wireless mouse?
    Tank you

    > The screen saver is one program downloaded from internet.
    Well, in such case it can be a software bug too.
    To be honest I dont see any connection to Toshiba here it seems to be an 3rd party software which does not start up when WLan mouse in connected maybe the screen saver developer could provide more details here

  • Getting wireless mouse to work on L300-13R

    I recently purchased a wireless mouse and keyboard set for my L300-13R but unfortunately the mouse did not move the pointer on the screen.
    I then bought another set by a different manufacturer and unfortunately encountered the same problem.
    The keyboard in both sets connects and works fine and the mouse connects and transmits to the receiver, (I know this as every time you move the mouse or click the mouse the light on the receiver flashes) but the mouse does not move the pointer.
    I have tried all the different USB ports, have ensured the batteries are OK and have tried disabling the onboard touchpad but still no joy.
    Sometimes when I connect the receiver it has everything is installed and working correctly (but it's not) and sometimes it says that it could not install due to some incorrect programming or something.
    I'm at my wits end, really could do with a wireless mouse so any advice would be appreciated.

    You'll probably have better luck in the European Support Forums where they actually sell and support that model.  This is the USA Forum and we don't have that model here. 
    You should also consult the manufacturer of the mouse you purchased as they probably have some useful information about it and please do the Euro Forum Users a favor by telling them exactly what mouse you are trying to use.
    If you don't post your COMPLETE model number it's very difficult to assist you. Please try to post in complete sentences with punctuation, capitals, and correct spelling. Toshiba does NOT provide any direct support in these forums. All support is User to User in their spare time.

  • Wireless Mouse X3300 - Software Suite Install

    Recently got a new Hp Wireless mouse x3300.
    It works fine (Windows 7 recognised it as a new input devise) but would like to be able to configure it.
    Downloaded the latest drivers and software suite from the HP site (sp60614.exe).
    But these fail to install correctly and come up with permission issues on trying to create registry keys.
    Error 1401 - Could not create key \SOFTWARE\Microsift\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run.
    I've tried installing both as me and as administrator but makes no difference.
    Other people seem to have reported this issue but I've seen no solution.
    Can you help?!
    I'm running standard Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (64 bit)
    I've also had a look at the regsitry permisiions for that key and can see no obvious permisision issue.

    Amy, welcome to the forum.
    Here is the Quick Start page for the mouse.  Click on the link "http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/supportLanding?cc=us&lc=en" and choose your country.  From there you should be able to find the software and driver for the mouse.
    Please click the "Thumbs Up+ button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
    Signature:
    HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
    HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
    HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
    HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
    ++++++++++++++++++
    **Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
    Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
    I am not an HP employee.

  • How do I eliminate horizontal scrolling with wireless mouse?

    Is there a way to disable just the horizontal scrolling on a wireless mouse?  I have Mac OS X 10.6.8.  I've searched Google and found several sources that recommend typing "defaults write com.apple.driver.Apple BluetoothMultitouch.mouse MouseHorizontalScroll -bool NO" in the Terminal window but it does not work.  Any help would be appreciated.

    It will only last until the next startup, but
    Open Terminal (in your Applications/Utilities folder):
    Copy/paste and hit Return:
    defaults write com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.mouse MouseHorizontalScroll -bool NO
    For this to take effect, turn your mouse off and then on again from the power switch
    To reverse
    defaults write com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.mouse MouseHorizontalScroll -bool YES
    Message was edited by: WZZZ

  • Wireless mouse not functioning

    My HPPavilion wireless mouse is not working.  Changed batter. Bought new one.  Same problems exists Sensor light on mouse does not light even w/ new mouse.  Must be another problem.  Touch pad is fine.  Use Windows 7. Product no. is LW350UA#ABA  

    Hey Maryc61,
     Can you please tell me if the mouse works on another computer? 
    You may also want to try disabling the touchpad and see if the mouse starts responding. You can do this by double tapping in the upper left corner of the touchpad. 
    Here are some documents you will want to go through:
    Troubleshoot a wireless mouse that does not function correctly.
    Troubleshooting Mouse Problems (Windows 7, Vista, XP)
    Make sure you go through these documents in full.
    Hopefully this helps!
    Please click the "Kudos, Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post if you want to say "Thanks" for helping!
    Please click "Accept as Solution" if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
    The Great Deku Tree
    I work on behalf of HP.

  • Wireless mouse a half a step behind

    Just bought the mouse at the Apple store today, and everything went fine with the installation. Everything else is working fine, except when I highlight a link there's about a one second delay before the mouse is ready for the click. If I click before a second or so, nothing happens. Any suggestions?
    Thanks

    Jodice, welcome to the forum.
    There are 4 USB 2.0 ports in the Back I/O ports.  I suggest testing them with another USB device to assure that they work before buying a wireless mouse.  I have a HP Split x2 and a HP Phoenix 810.  I use a Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500 with both of them.  It is a smaller mouse, but works great.  I bought them on sale at Staples for $14.95 each.  If the ports work a wireless mouse should work fine.
    Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
    Signature:
    HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
    HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
    HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
    HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
    ++++++++++++++++++
    **Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
    Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
    I am not an HP employee.

  • Multiple Problems Involving my new laptop [Keyboard][wireless mouse][application issues]

    My laptop only gives me the following information on the stickers:
    Lenovo G580
    Model NO: 20157
    I received a laptop from my dad and the more I use it the more stuff i seem to run into.
    The first problem i noticed was that two of my arrow keys would not work on my keyboard and I need those keys to play a couple of low-end games that i like.
    Next i noticed that my wireless mouse would act weird when I attempted to use it. It would constantly double-click when i only clicked once and i have replaced the batteries multiple times. It only happens on this computer.
    Another problem is that i have the desktop version of skype installed. Sometimes it crashes and refuses to close. I've tried task manager and the command line. When I use "taskkill /F /IM skype.exe" it tells me i do not have permission even when i launched command line as administrator.
    After using Windows 8 for a few months,i really hate it. I absolutely cannot stand the new operating system. I gave it a try and if i have to live with it for much longer I will go insane.
    I have tried to install Ubuntu but the disk refuses to load. Im sure it has something to do with secure boot, but the option to disable it is greyed out and im unable to change it.
    Anyone who can help me with any of these issues would be awesome. 

    Call support. http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/feedback/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-76613
    Note there are separate support lines for Thinkpads and other Lenovo models

  • Transmitting iTunes interrupts my USB wireless mouse

    I am sitting very close to the Extreme n. Where I have the USB Logitech wireless mouse is maybe a foot directly front of it. When I am transmitting Airtunes to AExpress the movement of the mouse is affected. If I move the mouse to a different place while still streaming music, it appears to be fine again.
    Before I go digging around and try to lengthen cables to move the Extreme, I'm looking for some advice. Would changing the channel do it?

    Yes, I think you're right - I disabled the Microsoft Intellitype and point drivers and it fixed the waking and disconnection problem, but unfortunately I can't use all the shortcut keys on the keyboard as before.
    I've written to Microsoft to see when an update's due.
    Sorry for distrusting you Apple!
    And thanks for your prompt reply - I meant to click on "this solved my question" but now there's no way to undo it. Sorry :-(

Maybe you are looking for