Wobbly noise from harmon kardon sound sticks

ok this is weird.... imagine playing a record, and every so often you put your finger on the record so it slows down very slowly, only for a very short amount of time though... its weird..
thats what the sound plays out like of my G5....!!!
does anyone else have this issue?

This is a very odd issue. I have a few questions for you about your problem. Do you have any other audio equipment connected to your Mac? Do you run any kind of user interface modification software that adds more system sounds? Had you made any system changes immediately preceeding this strange behavior beginning?
PowerMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1GB RAM, nvidia 6800 ultra, Apple 30" Cinema Display

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I have a Harman Kardon Sound Stick speaker system hooked up to my computer, and although the light is on, it is not working.
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Hi-
The system Preferences will show the output as headphones/built-in audio. You do have the Sound Sticks plugged into the audio port?
On one of the speakers, there are two chrome plates on either side of the port at the bottom of the speaker- one has a plus, one a minus. By touching one, or the other, you can raise, or lower the volume. make sure that you have the volume turned up, by touching the plus.
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After reviewing your post, it sounds like the phone makes a cracking noise when it vibrates. I would recommend that you read these articles, they may be helpful in troubleshooting your issue.
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Hi JHS - I can't help ... but have the same problem, with a pretty similar set-up (2003 Soundsticks connected to an Intel iMac via USB) and started getting static problems after I disconnected everything to move my desk the other week. At first I thought it was from an online radio feed, but now realise that it's on iTunes and everything (stuff that used to sound crisp) ...
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P_FqYUILcc

Hi Paul,
I don't have any to test, sorry. Seems defective here, but hopfully we get more help here.
Long shot, but...
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All the Best,
Roy Dudley
[email protected]

Hmmmmm....they were working on my regular iMac G5 running Leopard, and they do work when I plug them into the headphone port...but not the External Speakers port. They don't even show up as a "selected device" in my sound panel preferences. When I plug them into the headphone port, they do okay...but not nearly as loud as my old computer (not an Intel Core Duo) did.
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I plugged them into my old computer, and they worked okay again.
I'm thinking theres a broken solder joint, wire or other mechanical failure in that socket for external speakers. Unless you can think of something else, I guess I'm getting out the voltage meter, screw drivers and soldering iron!
Thanks for the prompt reply. Let me know what you think, okay?
All the Best,
Roy Dudley

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give it a search, sometimes you have to look for a day or two, but you will find one. Also do a search on google. You can find them at parts houses like ifixipodsfast.com for 120 for a 30 and 165 for a 60 gig. But do some searches and go here for the tutorial on how to change it. It is really not that hard at all.http://www.ipodhowtovideo.com/video/
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hello-
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this week i have moved to a new school in seoul, south korea and i have started to have some problems. when i plug the speakers in (with the power source converted to 110v) i get feedback, like wind blowing through the speakers. it doesn't matter if the jack is plugged in to the computer/ipod or not, there is a constant "whoosh-whooshing" sound that is driving me nuts.
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i'm not sure if the outlets are grounded. it's a brand-new building, completes in may, designed to "western standards." i'll check with the electricians at the school to see if they know.
i've tried several things: different outlets, different converters, with other electronics around it and without. like i sais, no problems in the states or in turkey, where power surges are the norm. i'll check on the mh thing.
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jesse

Noise from hard disk

Hi, everyone.
I bought a new mackbook pro in this Jan. Recently, I hear some not continuously noise from hard disk, especially when i open a file in hard disk or verify the hard disk. Is something wrong with my hard disk?
Thanks

This hard disk clicking is a know problem for many laptops. If you search it on Google, you will find a lot of discussions about it in the Unbuntu Linux forums. In most cases, it is due to the Advanced Power Management (APM) feature of notebook hard drives. The default APM settings of these drives are aggressive so as to extend notebook battery life. As a consequence, the HD tries to park its actuator head to the ramp whenever it judges the system as idle. However, OS X or some third-party applications may access the hard disk quite often, resulting in a park/unpark cycle every few seconds.
Every of these cycles is counted as one load/unload cycle. Most notebook drives support up to 600,000 load/unload cycles. If a hard drive parks its head every few seconds, it may shorten its life by "using up" the cycles more quickly.
I had the same problem on my Powerbook with a Hitachi Travelstar 5K160 80GB PATA drive. I heard the frequent clicking sound right after I installed it into the laptop. The SMART status appeared to be Verified, and there was no problem with the drive itself. After searching on Google and Hitachi web site, I found the causes and solved the problem using the Hitachi Feature Tool. For other HD brands, I have no experience at all.
Basically, Travelstar 5K160 drives have three idle modes, from which a user can set one as the deepest idle state:
1) Active Idle: the actuator head is parked near the center of the disk, and power usage is 45-55% less than performance level. Recovery time to active mode is about 20ms.
2) Low Power Idle: this is usually the factory default idle mode. The head is UNLOADED to the ramp and the power consumption is 60-65% less than the performance level. Recovery time is about 300ms.
3) Low RPM idle: in this idle mode, the hard disk will spin down to a lower RPM speed. More power is saved but recovery time is much longer. (I can hear the disk spin down and spin up again a few times per minute. There is also a lag in system reaction time.)
To get rid of the hard disk clicking, you need to set Active Idle as the deepest APM idle mode. To do it on a Hitachi hard disk, you need Hitachi Feature Tool, and a Windows laptop with the same HD interface as your drive (PATA or SATA). Sadly, the feature tool is only for Windows and Linux.
You can download Hitachi Feature Tool 2.10 as an ISO image here: http://www.hitachigst.com/hdd/support/download.htm#FeatureTool and burn it into a bootable CD. The userguide of the tool is available on the same page.
Then, take out your hard drive from your Macbook and install it into a Windows laptop. Boot the machine using the Feature Tool bootable CD. Choose "Change Advanced Power Mode" from the drop-down menu.
The default value is 128 (Low Power Idle). Just increase the value toward Performance, until you see the APM mode over the value bar becomes Active Idle (starting from 192). Click OK and Exit the feature tool. Switch off the Windows laptop and take out the hard disk. Install it into your Macbook. You will not hear the clicking sound again when system is idle. The lowest APM mode will be Active Idle and hence the drive will not park its head to the ramp during operions.
If your hard drive is a Hitachi Travelstar 5K160, you can find the 5K160 specifications version 1.1 from Hitachi web site. On page 69 of the document, it explains the APM idle modes. On page 145 about the register values of the APM modes.
To set Active Idle as the deepest idle mode may adversely affect battery life. (I haven't yet tested it myself) However, there seem not to be a big difference than the Low Power Idle, according to the datasheet of 5K160. For this model, power consumption of Active Idle is 0.8W, while that of Low Power Idle is 0.6W, on average.
Hope this is helpful.

Wobbly noise from harmon kardon sound sticks

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