WOW, Prescott CPU Temp drop

Well my system, Prescott 3.0 not overclocked, was running 45 at idle. I didnt like that. So I went the cheap route and got a CoolerMaster Aero 4. My system at idle is now at 34, as reported by speed fan! :biggthumbsup:WOW that is a huge drop I think
Mark

Nigel
The only way I know to put a load on it is to play a game. But I cant see the SpeedFan icon when I do that. So how do I put a load on it and see/record the temp? Some kind of benchmark utility?
As far as my temp goes I am very happy. Before I put the Aero 4 on my Prescott I was just using the stock Intel cooler and my idle temp was 45. When I took the intel cooler off I noticed there were parts of the cpu that had no thermal grease at all, you know the little pad of grease that comes on the stock intel cooler. So I cleaned the cpu with alcohol using a clean rag. Then I applied Arctic Silver 5. Now my idle temp is down to 34-36 depending if my house A/C is running. I am very impressed with this little cooler,
http://www.coolermaster.com/index.php?LT=english&Language_s=2&url_place=product&p_serial=ISB-V73&other_title=+ISB-V73+Aero%204
Mark

Similar Messages

Wow-- What a Temp Drop!! Is it real??

I would love to hear people's thoughts on this.
A few months ago I put together an Athlon 64 3400+ and a MSI K8T FISR with a Thermalright XP-120 HS and Vantec Stealth 120mm fan in a Lian Li PC-65 aluminum case (4 built in case fans) and an Antec Neopower 480W PS. CoreCenter said it was consistently running at 120-130 degrees F (48-54 C). No overheats. No shutdowns. I figured it was hot, but decent. I didn't know any better. I didn't have "Cool and Quiet" activated.
I did a system re-install of my OS. I started getting overheats-- up to 145 F. AHHH... I couldn't figure out the change. No hardware changes. The fans were all working. So I decided to activate Cool and Quiet in the Core Center. Now my temp reads so low I am concerned about it. It reads right at room temperature-- sometimes lower-- down to 62 degrees F (16 C). I am not noticing any performance drop either.
I have a Hardcano 13 temp monitor on order for a double check. Does the temp drop make sense?
Thanks.
--John

Any CPU temperature below the ambient/room temperature can not be real. If you care about the real temperature of the CPU although your system is stable the monitoring software and/or sensor need calibration. I did the following way if you are interested.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=490a9bbb54d469c0656f7c7a8618e17a&topic=76096.0
Cheers

2 identical machines - different CPU temps

I recently built two XP3200+ identical machines (specs below). All parts were purchased from the same company (NewEgg) and both processors were retail packaged. My concern is the CPU temperature on System 2. Here are the vitals at idle with about 1 hour warmup:
System 1
CPU temp: 43 C
CPU Fan Speed: averages 3800 RPM
System temp: 38 C
System 2
CPU temp: 55 C
CPU Fan Speed: averages 4300 RPM
System temp: 38 C
I know both CPU temps are with allowable limits but why would they be so different?
BTW... I did try removing the heatsink, cleaning it and the CPU, then reapplying Arctic Silver 5 and got no difference in temperature readings. Anyone have any ideas?
Quote
Case: Antec Sever Tower SLK3700AMB w/350W Antec PS
Motherboard: MSI KT600 KT6V-LSR
CPU: AMD Athlon XP3200+ (Barton) 400MHz FSB Retail box and fan
RAM: Kingston Technology Value Series 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-3200
Video: MSI nVIDIA GeForce FX5700LE Video Card, 256MB DDR, 128-bit, DVI/TV-Out, 8X AGP
Floppy: SONY Black 1.44MB 3.5inch Floppy Disk Drive
Hard Drive: Maxtor 80GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive, Model 6Y080M0
CDR: MSI Black 52x32x52 CD-RW Drive, Model CR52-M
OS: Microsoft Windows XP HOME Edition With Service Pack 2

I have a problem with this corecenter too. I buy a thermaltake cpu fan and my cpu tem. dropped about 40C . After that i think i updated corecenter.And i didn't looked so much to corecenter.One day i saw that in corecenter my cpu tem is about 50C. And that night i updated corecenter again and my cpu temp. dropped 42C from 52C
Which one i will trust 52C or 42C. I am frightening to hear don't trust both of them

CPU temps/cooling?

So, I finally have gotten my system running, but to say it's unstable would be an understatement. It gives a BSOD on a regular basis. I've downloaded memtest, and it sees no errors in the RAM. I made sure to buy the tested and approved memory for my K8T Master2 FAR. I'm wondering if my CPUs are overheating. After the last BSOD, I went into the BIOS and looked over the temp readings. They were showing about 45 C. Now, this was in the BIOS after a brief cooling off from a memory dump. I wonder what the temp actually is under load. I can't get the system to stay up long enough to actually install the Core monitoring software. I took the side of the case off, and the CPU temps dropped immediately by about 5-6 degrees C (about 10 degrees Farenheit).
So what is a normal idle temp for these processors? Can anyone recommend a good hs/fan replacement for what came with the mobo? At the moment I'm pretty frustrated with the instability. I'm thinking it's heat related, since I've done several clean installs of the OS, with new RAM. I've swapped out vid cards, and disabled all the onboard hardware. It's more than a little annoying at this point. If anyone thinks the problem might be something other than heat, let me know. I'm powering the board with a 380 Watt Antec power supply.

Quote
Originally posted by geerten
The antec 380 may be insufficient. This board takes quite a lot of power, especially on the 12V line. This could explain the instability.
Two thoughts about the temps.
First: with current BIOS'es (up to 1.3b5) and newer revisions of the opteron CPU's you will suffer from "Newcastle syndrome". BIOS and monitoring utilities will show temperatures that are way too high (I've heard 20 deg celsius). To check this feel the heatsink immediately after the system shuts down. If its not very hot than this may be your problem. Because of this the system may initiate shutdown if you have that option enabled in the BIOS. You should disable that option, or configure the shutdown temperature as high as it will accept. .
The system isn't initiating the shutdown. It simply crashes out to a memory error (IRQL, PFL, Thread Release). But about the power supply... I have a Raidmax 400W that I will try on it next. I was wondering if the PSU was sufficient.
Quote
Second: you describe that the temperature drops fast after opening the case. This could be an indication that airflow in the closed case is insufficient. Try running it with the case open for a while and check the temperatures. (not too long, because the cooling of other components may suffer..) If this is your problem the usual fixes are: check the directions of the case fans, remove cables out of the way, make sure th CPU fans are not obstructed.
Good luck.
As of yet, it hasn't crashed while running with the case open.... not that I recall anyway.

How to reduce from 5º to 8ºC CPU Temp on your MSI K7N2 Delta!

I've installed this tweak last week and it is working very stable since then. It decreased my Idle CPU Temp from 42º to 36º and Overload from 54º to 48º:
Just go: http://forums.pcper.com/showindex.php?t=280137
AMD ATHLON XP 2600+ 12.5x333mhz 1.65V ~OC 11.5x400mhz 1.55V
Thermaltake Volcano 9
MSI K7N2 Delta L
MSI GF4 4200-8X graphics Card
160GB Maxtor HDD 7200rpm
768MB Samsung DDR3200
LG 48x24x48x/16x CDROM/DVD Reader
Dual Fan 450W Troni Power Suppy

It seems that the link to the tweak is broken, I've found another one:
http://ftp://ftp.vector.co.jp/pack/win95/hardware/other/wpcre14.exe
This is what the article say:
Just tried it for the first time..It works GREAT
My idle temps are now 26c, down from 34c. That's 8C. I can have Winamp, IE and messenger running and CPU temps don't get by 29c. Once i fire up, SETI though...I get back my regular Load temps at 39c.
Some of you probably know about it, already....here's for thousand others that don't.
This tweak can drop your idle CPU temps down as much as 8c, maybe more...depending on your system.
First thing you need to do is download WPCRSET & WPCREDIT.
They're both in this zip.
- Extract to a directory.
- Run "INSTDD.EXE". Click Install. When done, you will be prompted for restart. Hit Yes! -
- Then go back to the folder with extracted files, and open "WPCREDIT.EXE"
- A ms-dos like window will pop-up. Move the blinking block (with arrow keys or your mouse pointer) until it says Offset 6F at the buttom. Now, click on the two digit number where it says "HEX", and change it to 1F (The Hex for Offset 6F would have previously been 9F, 8F or something else). Hit Set.
Your idle temps should now start falling.
You would have to do this hack/tweak everytime you rebooted your computer if it wasn't for WPCRSET.
- Go to directory and run "WPCRSET.EXE"
- Look at the top of the window: Enable select "Start" and make sure Device is on "enable"
- Then click Add. Enter 6F for the register, and 1F for the data
- Click Ok and you'll be prompted to restart.
Once, you rebooted, open WCREDIT again and see if the 6F register is still on 1F. If it is, then that's it..You're all done.
Here's a Screenie of how it should be:
This only brings your idle temps down, and not your full load temps
It should work for all nforce2s, and use at your own risk
Check your nf7-s for CPU Disconnect. Most other nforce2 motherboards do not have this feature in the bios...so this tweak might prove useful.
READ THE WHOLE THREAD BEFORE TRYING THIS!
If you run a Distributed Computing project...then obviously this would be of no use to you
Quote:
Originally posted by Abducted on 12-16-2003 at 03:43 PM
It activates the C1 (and maybe the C2) function Athlon XP CPU's support. Most mainboard brands have this feature as an option in the bios you can enable and disable. I just found out that EPoX doesn't have that feature. So what you're doing is just using a direct reg tweak to activate it. It's not like you're forcing anything, the Athlon XP chips are made to support this feature so it shouldn't do any damage.
When the CPU is idle the mainboard will send a command to the CPU that will cause a part of the CPU to be deactivated (and therefore not produce any heat). That's why this tweak only works on the idle temp and doesn't change anything on the load temp. Ofcourse as soon as the CPU power is needed the deactivated part will become active again, so it should have any influence on the performance of the CPU.
Strangely, my full load temp has decreased 6º C degrees too.

Possible fix for CPU temp problem found.

Well, one day I decided to take the heatsink off of the nForce3 chip and put some good ol' Arctic Silver thermal compound on there. I figured it might help with overclocking and whatnot. When I took it off, look what I found(!):
Imagine my surprise! Why did they even bother? Ridiculous. After removing their mistake, I put some Arctic Silver on there and re-attached the MSI heatsink (someday I'll probably buy a much better one for it). I've noticed after a couple of days (it takes a little while for the thermal compound to set in) that the CPU temp doesn't appear to fluctuate wildly anymore. Before I was getting crazy jumps from 45C to 65C, but now it hovers around 45C-47C idle and a little over 50C stressed. I've also noticed that my overclocks are a bit more stable now too. For those of you wondering, I'm using BIOS v1.1 at the moment (haven't tried v1.42 yet).
Can anyone confirm these findings? Maybe something else I did fixed my CPU temp issue (I do fiddle with the BIOS quite a bit). My guess is that the nForce3 has a part in determining/reporting the CPU temperature.
I hope this actually is a fix for some of you out there, but don't get your hopes up too high until at least one other person can confirm my theory.

It's very easy to remove the MSI plate. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers pinch the fins on the heat sink on one side together (one at the top, one at the bottom). You don't have to do it too much and be careful. This provides enough slack for the plate to drop out with some slight assistance. Well, that's how I did mine.
I then attached a 40mm fan by screwing into the gaps between the two fins. Only on the one side mind (so 2 screws in total). It holds the fan fine, no rattling.
I have some Artic Silver adhesive and I did consider leaving the MSI plate in place and fixing the fan to it. But I wasn't sure how secure it would be. Plus the plate rattles already, imagine how it would behave with a fan stuck to it.
Unfortunately, I forgot to make a note of the NB temperature before I did it. And I can't for the life of me remember what it was. So I can't say, for sure, how it has effected the temperature. I'm sure it has though.
I suppose it's easy enough to disconnect the fan to find out. I might try that later...
Running at 230x10 (stock = 200x10), MBM reports:
Case = 37C
CPU = 35C
Sensor 3 = 49C
The sensors are labelled by MBM, so I am assuming they respond to the correct items, ie the CPU temp is actually the CPU temp.
This is after a hour or so with Azureus running, mIRC open, a couple of IE windows and SETI running at ~97% CPU
When I take the side off to disconnect the fan again, I will take a picture.

"Easy" way to lower MEGA 180 CPU Temp

Let me start off by saying I haven't done this yet but I think it would work. I built a Mega 180 based machine for a customer and have had nothing but problems with it. I got a call from her last night to tell me that the CPU temp on the display is in the 70 C range and she is getting nervous about it (frankly, so am I). I'm picking up the PC from her in a few days to see if I can lower the CPU temp any. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
1) Since I already lapped the bottom of the heatsink and used Artic Silver thermal grease, there's nothing else I can do in that area. It's already optimal.
2) The heatsink is 100% copper with lots of cooling fins. There isn't a better thermal material for a heatsink, within reason. Aluminum is no good. Basically, the design of the heatsink is good, but not perfect. First, why they would design the sink to suck hot air off of the video card and blow it through the fins is beyond me. Naturally, the CPU will never be cooler than the air that's being used to cool it. The heat sink needs fresh, cool air.
3) To provide the heatsink with fresh cool air I plan on first, turing the big fan on the sink around so it blows out, not in. Second, I plan on replacing the little fan with a bigger fan and position it so it blows in, not out. Then I plan on making a short duct that attaches over the fan on the right (with the front of the PC facing you) and extend the duct a few inches to the right so it is less than an inch from the side of the case. Lastly, I plan on using some lexan and making a very small deflector to put on the heatsink's exhaust fan. It will be about 1/2 inch wide and as long as the fan (80mm?). It will be tilted at a 45 degree angle. The deflector will channel the hot air away from the video card and towards the front left side of the case. This will avoid trading one heat problem (CPU) for another (video card).
If all goes well, a drop of 10 C under maximum load should be achieved. I'll let you know how this turns out.
I may also try the following:
1) Buy some RAM heat sinks and using thermal glue, glue them to the hard drive.
2) Position a 40mm fan so it blows on the heat sinks on the hard drive.
3) Position another 40mm fan so it blows across the chipset's heat sink.

god damn thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that
I lapped my heatsink last weekend, the hardware store where i got my sand paper didnt have any grid over 600 so I had to settle with that. But I'm still pleased with the results. I figured that that plus some some Artic Silver 5 would get me a bit on my way.
I would have documented it with my camera if the batteries just wasnt out :/
At the same time I installed a "silent" 15db@1500rpm 80x80mm Everflow fan on the left side of the case (when facing the front) that blows the air in. All of these efforts improved the temperature just a bit. The noise increased a bit but it isnt all that much trouble consithering I've spent my last couple of months with my ears next to a server that has the lovely sound level of around 60db (note: no case fans on the server at all)
As I recall the idle temperature used to be over 60c and now it sometimes drops below 50c. But most of the times its around 53-55c (all of this is at around 25c ambient temperature). But the heat problem while gaming is still a huge problem. When it hits around 70 the computer crashes.
But before my efforts to do something about it, it would die within 10min of high load. Now it can take up to about an hour (depending on how the ambient temperature is).
Next up I think I'm gonna try out your idea. Switch the fans, and maybe even install another Everflow fan having 4 fans totaly pulling the air through the case (but from right to left this time :P)
why call it MSI Entertainment Gaming Applicance if you cant entertain yourself by gaming on it ? =P
/Wezz

Netflix vs YouTube CPU temp

I have a mid-2011 MBA. i5, 1.6 with 2gigs of ram, intel 3000 graphics.
Watching netflix causes the thing to get really hot. The fan fires up to over 4000rpm and the temp can get over 90c. YouTube, in HD, hardly phases the MBA. See the image. Why is this? Is there something I can tweak so I can watch netflix without melting my computer? This wasn't an issue with a 2013 MBP I had.

Many thanks for your reply & Mac expertise
I always have the Activity Monitor CPU open ..
I am fascinated by the way the CPUs switch on heavy workloads .... when one CPU hits a top temp of 64 degrees C it seems to switch over to the other CPU. when the temp of the first CPU immediately drops it cuts in again !
... I am glad to hear its running rather cool (as its up on its very own desk).
I shall always go by the higher readings then !
Many thanks again

PowerMac G5 DP CPU temps?

Hello all,
I am curious to get some feedback in regards to CPU temperature of the PowerMac G5s out there and whether or not I have an issue with my machine and should take it in to the Apple Store.
I have my processor performance set to 'Highest' to minimize the fans going into overdrive (aka 'takeoff mode!").
At idle, my CPU temps read:
CPU A: 57.2/135.0 (ºC/ºF)
CPU B: 69.6/156.2 (ºC/ºF)
However, if I start taxing the system they jump up considerably, and there is an even greater gap between CPU B's temp over CPU A.
These are the extremes I have gotten when running the processors at 100%:
CPU A: 64.4/148.0 (ºC/ºF)
CPU B: 88.7/191.7 (ºC/ºF)
As you see, it jumped from 12ºC warmer up to 24ºC. Is this a serious issue to worry about? I have cleaned out the case and checked for any coolant leaks of which there are none visible. From other research online, it seems normal for the temps to be off +/-5ºC, usually with A being warmer than B.
Would a Thermal Re-calibration at the Genius Bar help things? I would just like to check others experiences and see if this is something I should pay closer attention to and in more detail.

Thank you for the links. It does seem like it's going to run a minimum of $800 just for the processor anywhere I look. What worries me about that is still having the liquid cooled system and the many issues I have be reading about lately with them.
As a designer, actually I have had LCD monitors for over 4 years now at every job I have had. I also use an LCD at home. I actually prefer them. I know there are color differences, but they have come such a long way that I'd hate to go back to a CRT again, so big and bulky. Again, this is just my personal preference.
I do love my PowerMac which why I am disappointed with the issues I've had with it. Not little issues either, the most expensive issues. Plus, with the new OS Snow Leopard possibly dropping the PowerPC line, I'd rather be looking ahead versus treading water with another used PowerMac, even if I could save and reuse all the extras I've put into it.
The more research I do, the more I am leaning towards the iMac 3.06GHz model and max it out to 4GB with aftermarket RAM. As long as I can get 1-2 working years out of it, I can then hand it down to my wife and then make another serious investment into a new MacPro.
I know you can't expand the iMac, other than adding more RAM, possibly putting in a larger HD. Although I have a 160GB in my G5 that I use maybe half of. I also have a LaCie 250GB external where I store most all of my things, so a 500GB internal on the iMac would be plenty for me right now.
As she is a very basic user (internet, music, word processing, etc.) she would still have plenty of computer after it being only 2 years old. She uses my 6 year old Ti PowerBook G4 now and it suits her just fine. (+mini rant here+...how is it my laptop which has traveled many miles has lasted twice as long as my more expensive chained to a desk in a controlled environment machine!?)
As she is finishing school working on her RN degree, I think the iMac is the best case scenario for now (very limited budget) and then when we can save up the extra cash, I'll just get a whole new system. Plus I'll be able to use her to get a student discount and save a few bucks and get a free iPod touch!
As for the Mac Genius, he told me it would cost $85 to run diagnostics as I was out of warranty. He ended up not running any as he told me based on everything I had done and the results I had gotten from my own hardware test, it would only indicate the same results there and doing the re-calibration would not fix anything.

Hardware Monitor Vs. iStat CPU Temp Readings

Hello, Can some kind person with Mac expertise ... please tell me why I get two sets of different Temp' readings from Hardware Monitor and iStat ?
For the same CPUs at the same time (generally : CPU B reads 2 Degrees C lower than CPU A)
My CPUs average when my G5 is :
Idle / light work load : 42.2 degrees C with Hardware Monitor
Idle / light work load : 47.2 degrees C with iStat
Working Heavy work load : 58.6 degrees C with Hardware Monitor
Working Heavy work load : 64.0 degrees C with iStat
My Mac interior is kept dust free & the tower is kept covered when shut down, (as its only in use for two hours per evening each day).
Which of the readings may be correct : Hardware Monitor or iStat ?
Is it possible to calibrate Hardware Monitor or iStat ?
Many thanks in advance & a lovely shiny green star awaits ...

Many thanks for your reply & Mac expertise
I always have the Activity Monitor CPU open ..
I am fascinated by the way the CPUs switch on heavy workloads .... when one CPU hits a top temp of 64 degrees C it seems to switch over to the other CPU. when the temp of the first CPU immediately drops it cuts in again !
... I am glad to hear its running rather cool (as its up on its very own desk).
I shall always go by the higher readings then !
Many thanks again

3.9 Bios and CPU temp

I have just installed the new 3.9 bios and have noted the cpu temp was sitting on 50c. It is normaly on about 40c when running at 1730mhz. I dropped it back to 1530mhz and its made very little difference. Anyone else noticed this.

I have just installed the new 3.9 bios and have noted the cpu temp was sitting on 50c. It is normaly on about 40c when running at 1730mhz. I dropped it back to 1530mhz and its made very little difference. Anyone else noticed this.

Different cpu temps after warm boot

After cold boot my CPU temp is:
Load: 46ºC
Idle: 39ºC (cool & quiet enabled)
After warm boot temp drops to:
load: 42ºC
idle: 35ºC (cool & quiet endabled)
I'm using bios 1.5b2.

Quote
Originally posted by cra_arc
OFFICIAL BIOS 1.4 FOR ME DOES THE TRICK
CONSISTENT COLD OR HOT BOOT TEMPS.
That however is not correct for everyone. MSI is aware of the problem and will be working on it in a future version of the Bios.

Z87-G43 Gaming - Random rebooting & strange CPU temps

Howdy.
Since building this system I've been having constant problems with system reboots. It seems completely random, but I've had a few this morning which is unusual (and I hope; unique!). It can be doing anything, or even nothing, for days and suddenly the power goes completely for a few seconds (I'm almost certain it isn't the power supply itself dropping, other things plugged into the same surge protector are still running).
When it returns windows log just shows Error 6008, with no other information. It happens infrequently enough for me to think I've cured it by doing something suddenly to get a surprise again. Things I've tried:
Re-installing OS (several times!).
Changing/stopping startup programs and services
Unplugging USB devices (for a while I honestly thought it was an iPhone cable! There seemed to be some correlation between it being plugged in and not plugged in. Not so).
Updating BIOS
Using Microsoft drivers instead of MSI supplied drivers (went back to MSI)
Using the Qualcomm Athero drivers for LAN instead of Killer
Monitoring CPU temps (see below!)
Tuning BIOS
etc, etc.
It is really frustrating, there is very little evidence to point towards one thing. It can go a week without rebooting, including lots of heavy gaming, and then I'll be doing something non-CPU intensive (i.e. browsing, or typing) and it suddenly restarts, then maybe another later that day, then another two days later, then nothing for a week again. Arggg! The one thing I have noticed, is that it rarely, if ever, goes down when doing something very CPU/GPU intensive, so I doubt it is thermal or that the PSU isn't coping.
Having said that, this morning has been a bit unusual, it has restarted more than ever (3 times I think, maybe more when I wasn't sat in front of it, I haven't checked the logs). The last time I fired up openhardwaremonitor and it reports something really odd, it says one core is running at nearly 125c and another is running at -35c . Speed fan is also showing these temps (but not Core temp, which shows them as being around 30c on each core). I totally understand that this is a misreading/bug, but it makes me wonder if the OS or motherboard is also misreading these temperatures and cutting the power supply?
I have found others with the same problem with the same motherboard (although to be fair, I was searching for the problem with the motherboard specified). Anybody else seeing these problems with this motherboard? Any suggestions?
Any help would be very much appreciated, and I thank you in advance.
System:
Main Board: Z87-G43 GAMING
Bios Version: A6
Video Card: R9-280 GAMING
PSU: Corsair CXM 600W Semi Modular 80+ Bronze Power Supply (ebuyer.com/429985-corsair-cxm-600w-semi-modular-80-bronze-power-supply-cp-9020060-uk)
12v rail Rating of listed PSU: "upto 46amps" (see link)
CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 3.5GHz Socket 1150 6MB L3 Cache Retail Boxed Processor
Memory: 8GB 1866MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL9 DIMM XMP HyperX Savage (x1 - plan to pair later)
SSD/ HDD: 840 pro 256GB/7200.14 ST3000DM001 3TB
CPU COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO AMD Intel Processor Cooler
Raid Card: N/A
Sound Card: N/A
Any Additional hardware plugged into your system: Mouse/Keyboard/monitor only ever present
OC: Nope
Operating System: Windows 8.1

Every other time (apart from today) it is instant, like a reset, this morning when it went off I honestly thought it had died, but it came back about 30 seconds later.
TBH; I'd rather it had died! I know it sounds like strange logic, but at least I could have tested individual components and found out exactly what was wrong and had it replaced while still fairly new.
Event Viewer is just full of: Error 6008 "The previous system shutdown at <time> on ‎<date> was unexpected" (logged when it comes back, nothing significant before the reboot).

MBP cpu temps and fanspeed help

So I have a MBP intle core i5 2.5GHz with 4 GB of ram, I thinkits either a 2008 model or 2010, I bought it new in 2010.
It has always gotten pretty hot, but thats what MBPs are supposed to do, I get it, but lately I have been testing temps and RPM with istat pro and rmcfancontrol and I think there may be a problem.
my temps all seem fine exceptmy CPU temp, which is regularly above 70 degrees. when doing semi extensive things like watching videos, streaming netflix or menial photoshop tasks, it is generally 80-85, with the fans around 3.5k RPM to 5K RPM. If I plug in my new 21 inch monitor (1920x1028 resolution) and play online poker, watch videos, or any design tasks involving adobe programs, ive seen it jump as high as 94 degrees, and im sure RPM atleast 6k, these may both go even higher as I have not tested the max yet.
this is usually when I have say an online poker lobby with tables going, a tracking software db running, skype on and firefox on. one question I have is, will tthere be less strain on the cpu if I drop the resolution of my new monitor? I dont want to drop it past 1600x1000 (not sure of the exact dimensions) because then it is defeating the purpose of why I bought a new larger screen with a high res.
second, I already run a desk sized fan on my MBP while it sits on an elevated pad (0.25 in approx) with 2 build in fans, left and right. The cpu is located just above the ESC button and that is where the heat is obviously centered so i place my cooling efforts as much as I can on that area.
my next question is, with fancontrol, how high can i force the fans to run and for how long while doing these kind of tasks on dual monitors? Can I set the left side fan to run at 5-6k as a default when playing a session of online poker (this is my part time job so its an important question) while leaving the right fan at 2k? or would it be better to keep them balanced? how long can they run at high rpm before it could cause problems? how long can my mbp run at constant temps of 80-95 degrees before it is dangerous for it? like I said it is mostly common for it to be between 75-85 at most times.
and last but not least, could this be a defect that it runs at such high temps? could it be my fans that are just plugged up and need a cleaning or replacing?
all suggestions are welcome, thank you

LampmanBrad wrote:
one question I have is, will tthere be less strain on the cpu if I drop the resolution of my new monitor? I dont want to drop it past 1600x1000 (not sure of the exact dimensions) because then it is defeating the purpose of why I bought a new larger screen with a high res.
Of course. A smaller resolution will require less performance to your dedicated graphic card. Note that your Mac has got two graphic cards (an Intel card and a NVIDIA GeForce one), and your computer switches to the dedicated graphic when it requires more graphic performance.
LampmanBrad wrote:
my next question is, with fancontrol, how high can i force the fans to run and for how long while doing these kind of tasks on dual monitors? Can I set the left side fan to run at 5-6k as a default when playing a session of online poker (this is my part time job so its an important question) while leaving the right fan at 2k? or would it be better to keep them balanced? how long can they run at high rpm before it could cause problems? how long can my mbp run at constant temps of 80-95 degrees before it is dangerous for it? like I said it is mostly common for it to be between 75-85 at most times.
We don't recommend smcFanControl because your Mac knows what's the correct fan speed and because this application modifies the SMC.
It's not good that your fans run at maximum speed for a long time (5000 rpm is too high). Now, the best you can do is to reset the SMC > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964 If you have problems with the fan speed, this should solve the problem.
LampmanBrad wrote:
and last but not least, could this be a defect that it runs at such high temps? could it be my fans that are just plugged up and need a cleaning or replacing?
If the SMC reset doesn't work, I suspect two things: the first, that you have a hardware problem, and the second, that there's a process eating CPU and memory when you are using the computer, because those temperatures are not normal. Also, at that fan speed, they may fail

865PE Neo2-PFS + Bios 3.A0: CPU Temp

If installed the newest bios, 3.A0:
This should fix my temp problems.
But what's a good temp for a Pentium 4 3.0E? (Prescott)
I'm using a boxed cooler (What's a good (Silent) replacement?)
CoreCenter: Average CPU Temp 57°
CoreCenter: Case Temp 40°
Please post your CPU Temp! And what kind of cooler you are using!
I haven't run a stressed temp test yet...

Quote
Originally posted by Wolvman
If installed the newest bios, 3.A0:
This should fix my temp problems.
But what's a good temp for a Pentium 4 3.0E? (Prescott)
I'm using a boxed cooler (What's a good (Silent) replacement?)
CoreCenter: Average CPU Temp 57°
CoreCenter: Case Temp 40°
Please post your CPU Temp! And what kind of cooler you are using!
I haven't run a stressed temp test yet...
I'm using a kingwin Arctic Liquid Cooler
First hour:
CoreCenter: Average CPU Temp 41°
CoreCenter: Case Temp 40°
Second hour:
CoreCenter: Average CPU Temp 51°
CoreCenter: Case Temp 53°

WOW, Prescott CPU Temp drop

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