WRT54G with MAC

Hi,
I have a MacBook. I bought a linksys WRT54G router.
I plugged the new router and my MacBook was working fine (wireless) ...before I ran the setup wizard.
Since it said on the papers that I needed to install the software first, I did so.
But since then, I can't access to Internet wireless... I have no wifi signal anymore. I clicked on the blank wifi symbol and it told me I have no airport card installed even though it's been working flawlessly before.
Then, I saw on a forum someone who was saying that you must not install (with the CD) the router when you have a MAC... that you must configure it manual.
But I DID insert the CD and now I don't know how to "desinstall" it... or to cancel what it did.
I tried to reboot my MacBook but it doesn't work.
Not only my MacBook doesn't connect (wireless) with my new router, but neither can't it connect with my parent's wireless router where it used to work just fine.
PS. Sorry for my bad English, hope you understand what I am trying to say.
Thanks in advance
Myriam

Just try to reset and re-configure the router manually...
Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...
If your Internet Service Providor is Cable follow this
If your Internet Service Providor is DSL follow this
To change the Wireless Settings click here
To set-up Wireless Security click here
Now, you should be able to see your wireless network on your mac, once you select your wireless network it will ask you for your password, enter a dollar sign(4) and then enter the 10 digit password from wepkey1...it should connect...

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WRT54GS with Mac OS 10.6.8 and RCN cable modem not working

Hello,
I have a Linksys WRT54GS, version 6 with Mac OS X (version 10.6.8) hooked up to a Scientific Atlantic cable modem, with RCN as the ISP.
Recently, RCN had some network issues, and so I had to power down and reset my modem. The modem is working fine now -- no problems at all when the Mac is connected direclty to the modem.
The router's network is OK in that I can connect the Mac wirelessly to the network, but I can't connect to the internet through the router (through neither the wireless or wired connection).
I have downloaded the latest firmware update for the router, following the Linksys site instructions, but this has not helped me solve the problem.
Does anyone have any advice as to what I should do? I did call Linksys tech support on the advice of RCN, and they said that the router does appear to be working (power, WLAN, and Internet lights are on), but they would be charging me nearly the cost of a new router to fix the problem.
Any advice would be appreciated!

Since you upgraded the Router WRT54GS with the latest firmware so once reset the Router and power cycle the whole network… Then connect the Modem with Linksys Router on the Internet Port and then connect any one computer to any one of the Ethernet port on the Router [Numbered – 1, 2, 3 and 4]… Let me know the RCN connection is a DSL connection or cable connection…
So if you have a DSL connection you can refer to this link:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?pid=93&login=1&vw=1&app=search&articleid=4020&userrole=Linksy...
So if you have a Cable Internet Connection you can refer to this link:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?pid=93&vw=1&articleid=3686
As far as the wireless is concern:
# Open up the browser and on the address bar type 192.168.1.1 that will open up the Router setup page…
# Then Click on wireless Tab create the Wireless Network Name SSID and select the channel to 6, 9, and 11… Click Save Settings...
# Then Click on Wireless Security sub tab and select the security mode and provide the password as per the requirement… Click Save Settings...
After doing the settings try to connect the preferred network on the wireless devices and check the connectivity….

Installing WRT54G with Mac OSX and getting a password

Ok, I just hooked up my wireless router to the internet modem (it's a motorola surfboard) and I believe my mac automatically picked it, now I'm am trying to add a password. How do I make sure my mac can pick it up and how can a program a password ? Thanks ! PS: I'm not very computer savy, so if it is at all possible to break it down into like installing a router for dummies that would be grat. Thanks !

It does not matter for the Operating System ..... you can install the wireless router ....
Open Safari browser .... type 192.168.1.1 ....leave username blank & in password use admin ...
Click on the Wireless tab on the Setup page- Here Wireless Network mode
should be mixed- Provide any non linksys network name ....
Name (SSID) box- Set wireless channel to 11- And wireless SSID
broadcast should be Enabled and then click on "Save Settings" >>Now
Click on the Sub tab under wireless > "Wireless Security" Change the
Wireless security mode to "WEP/WPA"...have a note of the key ... click save settings ...

How do I get wrt54g-tm to work with Mac OS X with a cable...

How do I get wrt54g-tm to work with Mac OS X with a cable modem. Was told by tech support, they could not help me over the phone and to go on line for instructions. Still not working....

Do you have internet when wired to the router?
What exactly is the problem? What error messages do you get?
What are the current settings on the WRT?

Best router for compatability with Mac & Airport?

I need to buy a wireless router, and know little about them. This will be for home use, and will be used for 2 people with their own computers. Distance is not a factor, as it's just a regular house, although the router may have to be placed in the garage, where the modem is currently located.
Does Linksys or NetGear generally work best with Mac hardware, or are they fairly even in that respect? I was told by a salesperson yesterday that the NetGear is easier to configure, but that the Linksys provides better security.
I looked at a NetGear WGT624 v3 ($50), and a Linksys WRT54GS ($90). I figure its best to go with the cheaper one, since a new wi-fi standard is expected later this year, and I'll probaby upgrade. Do routers have software to log the history of addresses visited, or is there software available to do this or to prevent my history from being logged? I'm just thinking about keeping my web activity private from the other user, as well as being able to check if their activity is all legal, since they'll be sharing my ISP.
iBook G4 1.33, Airport Express Mac OS X (10.4.4)

OregonRebel
There is no difference between the security settings on a Linksys or Netgear as far as I know.
I have a DG834 with a WPN824 as a wireless access bridge for my elderly next door neighbor, it's so far proved it's use never had a problem with this setup.
I would say it boils down to personal choice which one you go for, I have always used Netgear.
I can log all IP's my neighbor visits, however I have known him for 24 years and can't really see him doing anything illegal !! Likewise where I go and visit he cant see

Best router for compatability with Mac & Airport Express?

I need to buy a wireless router, and know little about them. This will be for home use, and will be used for 2 people with their own computers. Distance is not a factor, as it's just a regular house, although the router may have to be placed in the garage, where the modem is currently located.
Does Linksys or NetGear generally work best with Mac hardware, or are they fairly even in that respect? I was told by a salesperson yesterday that the NetGear is easier to configure, but that the Linksys provides better security.
I looked at a NetGear WGT624 v3 ($50), and a Linksys WRT54GS ($90). I figure its best to go with the cheaper one, since a new wi-fi standard is expected later this year, and I'll probaby upgrade. Do routers have software to log the history of addresses visited, or is there software available to do this or to prevent my history from being logged? I'm just thinking about keeping my web activity private from the other user, as well as being able to check if their activity is all legal, since they'll be sharing my ISP.
iBook G4 1.33, Airport Express Mac OS X (10.4.4)

No answers, so I'm cancelling the post.

WRT600N not working with Mac OS X - Please help

I previously had a WRT54G and it was working fine (until it died) with my MacBook Pro laptop. I just replaced it with a WRT600N and the MacBook Pro is no longer seeing either of the two wireless networks being transmitted by that new router. However, when I boot the MacBook Pro in Windows Vista through BootCamp it sees the networks with no problem. Is the WRT600N incompatible with Mac OS? If so, is there or will there be a patch soon (and where can I find it)? I also have a WRT300N running and it is being seen just fine by both the Mac and WIndows sides of the MacBook Pro. The problem is only with the WRT600N and the Mac OS. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Try using WPA2 Personal - AES encryption, that is the only config that worked with my older WRTG54? router and a new macbook.

I have recently purchased MacBook Pro with Mac OSX 10.7.3 Lion and I would like to install Final Cut Pro 6 Studio2, and it came up with this error: 'you can't open application FinalCutProStudio.mpkg because PowerPc apps are no longer supported..pls advise

I have recently purchased MacBook Pro with Mac OSX 10.7.3 Lion and I would like to install Final Cut Pro 6 Studio2, and it came up with this error: 'you can't open application FinalCutProStudio.mpkg because PowerPc apps are no longer supported......Is there a way to run FCP6 on lion withoput this error? Any help would be appreciated.....

Hi Shane,
Just one more quesiton re: this topic, I am looking to get rosetta but do not have Leopard or Snow Leopard...
I read that it is not on Snow Leopard only on Leopard....so do I need to get only Leopard? Can u advise?
Alternatively I do have Mac OS X Tiger so is it on this and can I install it from here?
Please excuse my lack of knowledge here, just trying to get my FCP 6 up and running asap....
Best Rgds.

External Drive "unable to be modified" with Mac

Hi,
I've just begun playing around with my laptop, but am running into problems while moving things around and off of my external hard drive.
Before my Mac that I just got today, I had a Gateway PC laptop that I used my external hard drive with. On the Mac, whenever I try to move a file to a new folder it says that it cannot be moved because the drive cannot be modified. Also, I can't create new folders or even delete things.
I think it has something to do with the formatting, but is there anything I can do that will NOT erase what I have on the hard drive? I have 200+ gigs of data on this drive and no where to temporarily place it while I reformat the drive.
Also, if I do have to reformat the drive, is there a format that works both with Macs and Windows, so I can still use it on friends' and parents' computers.
Message was edited by: Rachel Whitfield
Message was edited by: Rachel Whitfield

Rachel,
Disk Utility is in your "Utilities" folder (of course). Here's how we do this:
/Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility
Let's cover a few terms while we're at it... Disk Utility is rather like iTunes in the way it looks (in fact, most everything "Mac" has a lot of features similar to those in iTunes). The list at the left side of the Disk Utility window (as in iTunes) is called the "source list." In the case of DU, this list shows "devices" and "volumes" at the top. Below those would be shown recent "disk images" that DU may have created or handled (you won't have any, and "disk images" are something you won't encounter for at least a few hours ).
A "device" is something physical, like your Superdrive or internal hard drive, and a "volume" is a logical "container" for files that is created on a given device. Think of it like the trunk of your car (the device), and the organizer you place in that trunk (a volume). DU shows volumes indented below the device that contains them. Since a volume is a logical framework (we call it a "file system") that holds your files, it is actually written to the device.
Windows uses specific "logical frameworks" (NTFS, FAT-32), and Mac OS uses a somewhat different one (HFS+). The Mac OS can, however, read any of the Windows formats ('cause Macs are more better, as you've already found), and DU knows how to write those FAT-32 logical frameworks.
OK, moving on... DU does many things. It can format (erase) volumes, changing them while it's at it if desired, but it can also format or partition a device. There's a bit of a difference between the two, sometimes. For example, you can "zero" either a device or a volume (which means to write continuous zeroes to the entire volume or device, in addition to simply giving it a new framework). One either a device or a volume, this is something you would do to completely destroy whatever data is on the device/volume. If you do it with a device, however, you get the additional benefit of "mapping out" any bad blocks (like dead spots) on the drive. This comes in handy if you ever find you're having problems with your drive.
Another difference between devices and volumes is that devices can be "partitioned". This is when you create multiple volumes on a single device. These separate volumes would appear on the Desktop of your Mac as individual drives, but they all reside on the one device. And of course, they can be of different formats (on my Desktop, I currently have my HFS+ Mac startup disk, and another NTFS disk for Bootcamp, both of them on my internal hard drive).
DU also repairs (or attempts to) errors that might occur in that logical framework we've already covered. These happen for various reasons, most frequently if we have an improper shutdown (such as a power loss). When this happens, we can lose important data. DU attempts to locate the problem, then fix it.
Finally, Disk Utility is what we use to create and manage "disk images". These are single files that act as "virtual disks," and can be "mounted" and "ejected" just like real disks. This is something that you will encounter soon, I'm sure, but don't need to worry about right yet.
I'll continue in another post (yeeesh, am I long-winded sometimes)...

I have a 3 year old MacBook Pro with MAC OSX 10.6.8, iPhoto '09 version 8.1.2 and have downloaded two software programs: one is Aperture 3.2 and the other is Photoshop Elements 9 (which I got from a friend who didn't need it). I am totally happy with the

I have a 3 year old MacBook Pro with MAC OSX 10.6.8, iPhoto ’09 version 8.1.2 and have downloaded two software programs: one is Aperture 3.2 and the other is Photoshop Elements 9 (which I got from a friend who didn’t need it).
I am totally happy with the way iPhoto organizes my photos and how I can work with iMovie to create slide shows with music from iTunes, etc.
I have been shooting mostly high resolution jpegs and I continue to learn more and more about photography, post processing etc. I realize that the small adjustments I can make in iPhoto are good, and are adequate most of the time. However, a have started to experiment with shooting RAW images and would like to go the next step, ie. post processing.I am totally technically challenged and need SIMPLE, INTUITIVE programs and am certainly NOT anywhere ready for Photoshop CS whatever!
After having these programs sit on my computer, I decided to try to see if I could figure them out. When I opened Aperture, this is what first comes up.
“Welcome to Aperture 3.2
Your library needs to be upgraded to work with this version of Aperture. Once upgraded, you will not be able to use this library with previous versions of Aperture.
Upgrading a library from previous versions of Aperture 3 generally takes a few minutes or less, though larger libraries will take longer. After that, Aperture 3.2 will upgrade your library's thumbnails, but you can use the application during that time.
Tip: To open a different library, quit Aperture and hold the Option key down while starting Aperture
Current Library Location:
Jadzia (home) -----Pictures------Aperture Library
QUIT UPGRADE”
I have heard horror stories about moving your entire library to Aperture, ending up with 2 libraries, etc. etc. hence my previous reluctance in attempting Aperture. In addition, many of my photography friends are saying: Go with Lightroom 3.....you’ll love it!
So here is my dilemma. I don’t want to mess around with my iPhoto library. All I want to be able to do, is to isolate a few photos, export them to Aperture, Elements, and work on them there, then bring them back into iPhoto.
Can I do this? Should I forget about Aperture and Elements and look at purchasing yet another program like Lightroom?

Export those few photos via the File ➙ Export ➙ File Export menu option with Kind = Original to the Desktop. Then import them into the Aperture library. That would keep one copy in your iPhoto library and another in your Aperture library to edit, etc.
You can use Photoshop Elements 9 from within iPhoto as your editor of choice. However, if you edit a raw file in iPhoto with PSE9 the resulting edited version must be saved outside the iPhoto Library and imported back in as a new file. For editing jpegs just do a Save (not a Save As) and it all will be kept within iPhoto.
Using Photoshop or Photoshop Elements as Your Editor of Choice in iPhoto.
1 - select Photoshop or Photoshop Elememts as your editor of choice in iPhoto's General Preference Section's under the "Edit photo:" menu.
2 - double click on the thumbnail in iPhoto to open it in Photoshop. When you're finished editing click on the Save button. If you immediately get the JPEG Options window make your selection (Baseline standard seems to be the most compatible jpeg format) and click on the OK button. Your done.
3 - however, if you get the navigation window
that indicates that PS wants to save it as a PS formatted file. You'll need to either select JPEG from the menu and save (top image) or click on the desktop in the Navigation window (bottom image) and save it to the desktop for importing as a new photo.
This method will let iPhoto know that the photo has been editied and will update the thumbnail file to reflect the edit..
NOTE: With Photoshop Elements the Saving File preferences should be configured as shown:
I also suggest the Maximize PSD File Compatabilty be set to Always. In PSE’s General preference pane set the Color Picker to Apple as shown:
Note: to switch between iPhoto and PS or PSE as the editor of choice Control (right)-click on the thumbnail and select either Edit in iPhoto or Edit in External Editor from the contextual menu. If you use iPhoto to edit more than PSE re-select iPhoto in the iPhoto General preference pane. Then iPhoto will be the default editor and you can use the contextual menu to select PSE for your editor when desired.
OT

I have itunes set up on a PC with all my music, apps, etc. I want to stop using PC and move my iTunes and files to a Mac I bought and synch my iPhone with the Mac. Can I just synch iPhone with Mac iTunes and will it copy all my stuff onto Mac, or will I h

I have itunes set up on a PC with all my music, apps, etc. I want to stop using PC and move my iTunes and files to a Mac I bought and synch my iPhone with the Mac. Can I just synch iPhone with Mac iTunes and will it copy all my stuff onto Mac, or will I have to copy files from PC onto Mac?

Here are some of the links to get you started.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3727530?start=0&tstart=0
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4527
http://www.macworld.com/article/1146958/move_itunes_windows_mac.html

Problems with Mac OSX 10.5.2 and installing my pro tools le 7.1.1

Problems with Mac OSX 10.5.2 and installing my pro tools le 7.1.1.
My garage band & reason software don´t open anymore giving me a error messasge regarding the midi drivers in the operating system.
Please help!!!
Thanks,
Paolo

Somewhere at either Macworld or here I learned that DVDSP 2, DVDSP 3 and now DVDSP 4 "internally" are major re-writes.
Support for HD among a few other items along with QT 7 which comes with Tiger means sincerely that one set of applications/OS is not going to be stable.
Personally I think of all the issues possible its DVDSP vs QT.
Unless you move to DVDSP v4 the alternative is to wipe the disk and go back to Jaguar (10.2) or perhaps Panther but avoid upgrading QT beyond 6. I advocate wiping the disk because I'n not sure an archive and install to down shift to an earlier version of the OS is possible. If it is I'd still worry about mis-matched files in all sorts of locations.

I am using ibook G4 PPC with mac os x10.4.11. A day before I delete one file from my hard disk by mistake and after that when I restarted my notebook, it's not starting the os. Only that blue screen is there. please, show me how to deal with it.

I am using an old ibook G4 ppc with mac os x 10.4.11. A day before by default I delete one file and I think it was the startup file of os because after that when I restarted my notebook it's not running the OS only that blue screen is there. This notebook was a gift for me and still it is so close to my heart. I don't wana loose it. Please, help me out.

Without the install CD, you are hosed.
What happened to it?
It is possible to call AppleCare and order a replacement. They will charge you a nominal fee for shipping and handling.
Allan

How can I STOP mail from syncing with .mac????

I don't have a .mac account, I will never have a .mac account, I have in mail prefs BOTH boxes under "synchronize with other computers using .mac" unchecked, and yet Mac Mail tries to tie up my entire system "synchronizing with .mac" all the time, especially when traffic is heavy (downloading or uploading). I've got activity viewer on and the stop sign is ghosted, there appears to be no way to stop Mail from doing this useless tie up time wasting process that manages to completely freeze up mail until it's completed and sometimes slow up other programs as well. I only have POP accounts, no IMAP accounts that have to be synced.
This didn't start happening until I upgraded to 10.4.11. Prior to that Mail blazed through everything, and it NEVER tried to sync with .mac.
Is there any way to turn this useless "feature" (for me) OFF?
Thanks!

I was on Tiger earlier, but just got home to a Leopard machine... and a power outage during the day seems to have blown my Tiger's Monitor, but look for...
/Users/bd/Library/Application Support/SyncServices/Local/clientdata/com.apple.DotMacSync
I'd try dragging the whole folder, if it exists...
/Users/YourUserName/Library/Application Support/SyncServices
to the Desktop & reboot, we can always move it back if need be.
/Users/YourUserName/Library/Preferences/ByHost/com.apple.DotMacSync.<ethernet MAC address>.plist
/Users/YourUserName/Library/Preferences/com.apple.DotMacSync.plist
are both other good choices to drag to the desktop.
We might even have to go in and Copy this to the Desktop then Trash the originl...
/System/Library/CoreServices/dotmacsyncclient

I have an iMac 5.1 with Mac OSX 10.6.8 and 2 GB memory and an L2 cache of 4 GB. lately I have been receiving error messages of " start up disk almost full; please delete files." is the start up disk the same thing as the hard drive?

I have an iMac 5.1 with Mac OSX 10.6.8 and 2 GB memory and an L2 cache of 4 GB. lately I have been receiving error messages of " start up disk almost full; please delete files." is the start up disk the same thing as the hard drive? I opened the hard drive and from the column on the left of the menu I've selected "search for" and under that " all images" then "all documents" I've deleted a few files from each. Are documents and images that I have deleted from here also deleted from the folders on my desktop?

You should never, EVER let a conputer hard drive get completely full, EVER!
With Macs and OS X, you shouldn't let the hard drive get below 15 GBs or less of free data space.
If it does, it's time for some hard drive housecleaning.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your iMac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you store images in other locations other than iPhoto, then you will have to weed through these to determine what to archive and what to delete.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Delete any other mail in your Junk folders. Also, look through your Sent Mail to see if there is anything that can be deleted.
Other things you can do to gain space.
Once you have around 15 GBs regained, do a search, download and install OmniDisk Sweeper.
This app will help you locate files that you can move/archive and/or delete from your system.
STAY AWAY FROM DELETING ANY FILES FROM OS X SYSTEM FOLDER!
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Look in your Applications folder, if you have applications you haven't used in a long time, if the app doesn't have a dedicated uninstaller, then you can simply drag it into the OS X Trash icon. IF the application has an uninstaller app, then use it to completely delete the app from your Mac.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it do its initial automatic tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the maintenance tabs that let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck!

WRT54G with MAC

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