WRT54G2 Bricked?

Dear all,
since i had some problems with the wireless network at home I decided to get another Linksys router for extending the network.
The set-up would have been:
Cable Internet > Linksys Router WRT54G > (wireless) > WRT54G2 > PC/Xbox
I wanted a bridge, and since I had read it wasn't possible with the normal firmware, I decided to upgrade to DD-WRT firmware. The problem was flashing the WRT54G2 router. After firmware flash through TFTP the router is "dead".
The power led stays off, doesn't blink any more.
Does anyone know if there is a possibility to get the router "back alive"?
- I can't access the configuration panel through the browser
- I can't ping my router
- Hard reset (30/30/30 and 60/30/60) didn't work.

Sounds like this is a dud for me as well. Cannot get my dsl to talk to it even though dsl works with a hotwire. Man- why did I pay the extra $ for cisco. I have vista and it worked first night my son set it up . he leaves for law school next day and nothing vista can do works. tried resetting it three times. Does it go into the junk pile . For a few days i could manually get it to work but now I am about to give up. I teach quite a few high schoolers. Know which router I will tell them not to get,If you offer advice I need details. I am a wireless rookie who got hooked when m son was home for the summer

Similar Messages

How to use the WRT54G2 as a switch...not a router?

I've got one linksys wirless router that's providing DHCP addresses, doing MAC filtering, and allowing access to the internet (it's hooked up to our DSL modem). The wireless signal doesn't reach to our other building (lots of brick and steel in the walls), so I've run a hardwire from the main building into that 2nd building.
We've got all wireless devices in the 2nd building. I want to use the linksys in the main building to hand out DHCP and do MAC filtering for the devices in building 2, if possible (don't want to have to maintain 2 MAC lists, and would like wireless devices to be able to go between buildings).
How do I setup the WRT54G2 in building 2 for this scenerio? Do I goto "Advanced Routing" and set the operation to "router" rather than "gateway"? Do I then use RIP? Or...do I do something else?
Any help would be great...thank you!!

Errr...I guess I could have asked "How do I configure the WRT54G2 as a WAP"...which is already answered here! Durr...I'm a network professional...durr...
TOOMANYDONUTS, you rock and somebody should give you some more donuts!!

WRT54G2 V1 drops wired PC connection all the time

I have a WRT54G2 Ver 1.0 unit with 1.02 firmware - I connect via a Linksys CM-100 cable modem to Comcast (in Houston - was Time Warner). My PC is wired to the router and is running 32-bit Vista Home Premium. The internet connection drops on a regular basis (several times per day) and the router has to be power cycled to recover. Power cycling the modem or the PC makes no difference - it has to be the router. Seems like it does it mostly when my PC goes to sleep mode. After reading the postings on this site I have set the MTU = 1350 and also cloned the MAC address of my PC - no significant improvement. I only used the router briefly in Ver 1.01 firmware after I purchased it in January, but I think it ran OK with that (at least it seemed better). Any suggestions welcome. Can I reloaded the 1.01 firmware without causing any isssues? If I can't get any success I'll drop a brick on the darned thing - I bought it to upgrade a wireless B Linksys unit that was 5+ years old - slow but ran like a charm!

Try to hard reset the router and then re-configure it...
Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...Set the MTU to 1350 and see if you still loose the connection...
Also test the connection by connecting a PC straight to the modem...

WRT54G2 Router HELP!

Hello all! I've been having a serious issue with my WRT54G2 Router as of late and have had many reccomendations on how to fix it but nothing has worked. I'm going to post just about every interaction I've had on there boards to date. Any more help would be much appreciated. I'm getting desperate.
Littlelungs33
Researcher
Posts: 5
Registered: 05-03-2009
I'm using a WRT54G2 Router. It's wired to a Motorola Surfboard modem. I can't access the manual config 192.168.1.1 and two other computers that are wireless in the house rely on my access point to be able to use the internet. Problem is I'm getting that good o'l "You are connected to the access point, but the internet cannot be found." I've tried assigning static IP's, power cycling, release/renew in IPCONFIG, I've whispered sweet nothings into my PC's ear...etc...etc...etc... I CAN access the manual config through the one laptop when it's wired to the modem though. Please for the love of everything someone help me!!!!!
Here's what IPCONFIG /ALL says about my computer.
Microsoft Windows XP [Version 5.1.2600]
(C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.
Windows IP Configuration
        Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . :
        Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
        Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Unknown
        IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
        WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection 2:
        Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
        Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Motorola SURFboard SB5120 USB Cable
Modem
        Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-15-2F-5E-21-BE
        Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
        Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
        IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 69.125.151.5
        Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.240.0
        Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 69.125.144.1
        DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 10.62.160.1
        DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 167.206.245.130
                                            167.206.245.129
Reply to previous message:
toomanydonuts
Network Administrator
Posts: 5566
Registered: 09-16-2006
Are you trying to access 192.168.1.1 wirelessly?   If so, stop doing this. Wireless access to 192.168.1.1 often fails. Use a computer that is wired to the router when you want to change router settings.
1) I assume that the "IPCONFIG /ALL" info that you posted was obtained when your computer was wired directly to your modem -- is that correct?
2) When you did the "IPCONFIG /ALL", was your computer wired to the modem with ethernet cable, or USB cable?
3) Your network should be setup like this:
Motorola Surfboard -- WRT54G2 )))     ((( wireless computer(s)
                                    |--- wired computer
Motorola Surfboard ethernet port wired to WRT54G2 Internet port, using ethernet cable.
Wired computer connected to a LAN port on the WRT54G2, using ethernet cable.
Nothing connected to USB port of Motorola Surfboard.
Wireless computers connect directly (and wirelessly) to WRT54G2, not to your wired computer.
Is above the way your system is setup? If not, how is your system setup?
4) Please clarify the problem that you are having. Are you saying that your computer simply cannot access 192.168.1.1 , or that it cannot access the Internet, or that you cannot get any of your computers to access the Internet through the WRT54G2?    Are you trying to connect this computer by wire or wirelessly to the WRT54G2?
5) Can any computer access the Internet through the WRT54G2?
Reply to previous message:
Littlelungs33
Researcher
Posts: 5
Registered: 05-03-2009
No, I'm trying to acess it through a wired computer. The computer I'm on right now is wired to the access point which is wired to the motorola modem. I can access the login page(as well as the internet) through the computer wired to the router(which, as stated just a few sentences ago, I'm currently using), but when i type in admin for the password it literally kicks me right back into the login screen with both username and password feilds blank. My entire system is setup the way you described that it should be ethernet cable and all. Trust me that was the first thing I checked. The IPCONFIG /ALL is the status of the computer wired to the router. The other two computers in the house (one is a laptop with wireless card and the other is a PC that I bought a wireless card for) cannot access the internet. They used to be able to until recently and I've made no changes to any of the settings.
I also tryed power cycling the system. It granted wireless access to the wireless computers as well as my playstation 3, BUT, I lost internet access on the wired computer. Imagine my frustration. I power cycled again then I was back to square one. No wireless access but access with the wired pc. It's not set to a static IP address either.
Reply to previous message:
toomanydonuts
Network Administrator
Posts: 5566
Registered: 09-16-2006
D) Have you upgraded the router's firmware?
E) After the firmware upgrade, did you reset the router to factory defaults, then setup the router again from scratch?
F) You said that the "IPCONFIG /ALL" was obtained when you were connected to the WRT54G2 router. But this looks like IPCONFIG data from connection to the Motorola Surfboard modem. Are you sure this IPCONFIG /ALL is from connection to the WRT54G2?
G) Have you been running unsecured wireless?   Or are you using encryption? If you are using unsecured wireless, perhaps your neighbor logged into your router (by accident or intentionally) and changed your login password.
I would suggest that you reset your router to factory defaults, then setup the router again from scratch. If you saved a router configuration file, DO NOT use it.
Please use the following procedure to reset your router:
1) Power down all computers, the router, and the modem, and unplug them from the wall.
2) Disconnect all wires from the router.
3) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
4) Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds, then release it, then let the router reset and reboot (2-3 minutes).
5) Power down the router.
6) Connect one computer by wire to port 1 on the router (NOT to the internet port).
7) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
8) Power up the computer (if the computer has a wireless card, make sure it is off).
9) Try to ping the router. To do this, click the "Start" button > All Programs > Accessories > Command Prompt. A black DOS box will appear. Enter the following: "ping 192.168.1.1" (no quotes), and hit the Enter key. You will see 3 or 4 lines that start either with "Reply from ... " or "Request timed out." If you see "Reply from ...", your computer has found your router.
10) Open your browser and point it to 192.168.1.1. This will take you to your router's login page. Leave the user name blank, and in the password field, enter "admin" (with no quotes). This will take you to your router setup page. Note the version number of your firmware (usually listed near upper right corner of screen). Exit your browser.
If you get this far without problems, try the setup disk (or setup the router manually, if you prefer), and see if you can get your router setup and working.
If you cannot get "Reply from ..." in step 9 above, your router is likely dead. Report back with this problem.
If you get a reply in step 9, but cannot complete step 10, then either your router is dead or the firmware is corrupt.   Report back with this problem.
If you need additional help, please state the results of steps 9 and 10. Also, if you get any error messages, copy them exactly and report back.
Please let me know how things turn out for you.
Reply to previous message:
Littlelungs33
Researcher
Posts: 5
Registered: 05-03-2009
My apologies for the delay in response, things have been hectic lately. Alrighty, I did all that you said and here are some interesting results, I'll break down the results by each machine that a fiddled with:
Wired Desktop PC:
-I got no response when trying to ping the router
-Could not access the 192.168.1.1 configuration screen, not even the prompt for username and password
-When using the installation disk AND the installation program i downloaded off the Linksys website it would not detect the router.
Wireless Laptop(this is where i think it gets interesting):
-I was able to fully install and automatically configure the router by using the installation disk
-I could ping and get full response from the router both wirelessly and while it was directly wired to the router
-I could also access the configuration menu 192.168.1.1 in my web browser
-I also had a backup copy of the latest firmware for the router on my flash drive, so I updated the firmware through the laptop.
-The laptop was using the router as it's access point, however the internet could not be found.
If I wasn't at a total loss before I tried all this, I certainly am now. Could it be a problem with the network settings on the PC that is wired? Perhaps a faulty ethernet port? Your thoughts?
Well, that's where it left off, I got no responses back from anyone after the last post. Help!!!

As you are able to access your router's web interface you should now try to re-configure it...
If your Internet Service Providor is Cable follow this link
If your Internet Service Providor is DSL follow this link

My WRT54G2 will Not Work HELP NEEDED !! PLease Help

Hey i Have a WRT54G2 and it has worked Flawlessly for about a Year... One Day i Wake u To No Connection coming From my Linksys ..... on the Wirless Connections Pop up there is a Message saying " Information Sent over this network might be visable to others" I Have Tried Everything and Anything to Figure Out or Fix the Problem But NOthing i Do Works ... I am Really Out of Options ,,,,, Someone PLeaseeeee HElllllp Meeeee !!!!1 Aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh

In this case try to change the power socket. Try to do 30/30/30 hard reset. The following procedure will clear out the NVRAM and set Router back to default values:
~~ With the unit powered on, press and hold the reset button on back of unit for 30 seconds
~~ Without releasing the reset button, unplug the unit and hold reset for another 30 seconds
~~ Plug the unit back in STILL holding the reset button a final 30 seconds....
Then make the physical connectivity. Here are the steps for the physical connectivity for the router:
The router’s power adapter needs to be plugged to your router and into an available power outlet.
If using a wired connection, the first Ethernet cable needs to be plugged to the computer’s LAN port into any of the router’s blue numbered Ethernet ports.
The second Ethernet cable should be plugged to the modem’s Internet port and the other end into the router’s yellow Internet port.
Ensure that you have no firewall enabled that may prevent the router from being detected.
Then make the manual settings according to the ISP setup. Here is the link for setting up a Linksys router with Cable Internet service:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=0ff4c94586a345d082828ec2161aaecf_3686.xml&pid=80&r...
Here is the link for setting up a Linksys router with DSL Internet service: http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=20ee1457387f40178cd5f41d4b585db4_3687.xml&pid=80&r...

Will Apple cover me if updating to iOS5 on ipod Touch 3rd gen ruins/bricks it?

I have heard stories of some people's apple products not working/bricked after attempting to upgrade to iOS5.
I have a 1.5 year old ipod Touch 3rd gen. No warranty on it from Apple (tho I do have one from Square Trade for ADH, but I called them and they said if it is a software issue, they don't cover it.)
I am very concerned about d/ling the ios5 upgrade and it ruining my ipod touch. In effect, I will take a device that could fetch almost $200 on ebay (which I could then use to upgrade to a Touch 5gen), and turn it into a worthless piece of junk if I upgrade and it ruins it.
Also, I know that they have released 5.0.1 (beta I believe?) for update. I still read stories on here from people waiting until now (Nov, a month after it was first released when so many people tried to d/l it and had terrible problems), but now are still getting network timed out error msgs, etc.
So is there ANY protection from Apple if their update should screw my ipod touch??
Should I just wait longer for a final, stable version of ios 5? (like v5.1) Or just totally skip the iOS 5 upgrade and stay safe with iOS 4? I don't know that it is really worth the $200 loss risk to upgrade to iOS5. (i.e. 3rd gen doesn't have the ability to find and lock/wipe my lost touch, etc.)
I do know that I should:
1) install itunes 10.5 anew on my laptop (itunes and syncing WAS done on my tower, until I just got it back from being serviced for some Major problems/virues/malware/etc. I'm not comfortable using it, as the problems on it included not being able to start Local Services, connect to the internet, no audio services, etc. The guy says it is booting up and services are working now, but you never know....But i digress...)
2) be on AC and not battery on my laptop
3) be hardwired (ethernet) to the internet and not use my wireless connection
4) turn off Windows 7 Firewall, and disable my PC Tools Spyware Docter with Antivirus.
So, what do you all think? should I wait until later to upgrade to say os 5.1? Should I even RISK upgrading to iOS5 on a touch 3gen and lose almost $200 cash? And will Apple give me ANY protection should it ruin my touch? (I seriously doubt it.)
Thanks for input.
Dave
Kentucky

Before proceeding with the update, it wouldn't hurt to manually back up the iPod in iTunes by right->clicking on it from under the Devices section and choosing Backup. See this article for more information on what is stored in the backup.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4946
Also make sure that any content you may have synced to the device from iTunes, such as Music, movies, TV Shows, podcasts, etc. are all stored on your computer and in iTunes before updating the iPod's version of iOS.
Otherwise, I would go ahead with the upgrade. I didn't have any issues with it on my iPhone.
B-rock

Iphone 6 touch ID did not working , then restored and it bricked

I'm very depressed now. My iphone 6 is not working. Touch ID didn't work so I restored and updated to 8.1.3 and it stuck at 50% and showed the error 53 then bricked . I bought it in New Zealand and I'm working in another country. What should I do now ?

Hey David,
The troubleshooting suggestions in this article will resolve most issues like the one that you’ve described, where you saw the alert message when attempting to restore your iPhone 6.
Resolve iOS update and restore errors in iTunes - Apple Support
Cheers,
-Jason

My mid-2011 MacBook Air bricks itself after 10.7.2 update

I have a new MacBook Air (11") that was working just great, until today. Today, I used Software Update to install the updates, which included 10.7.2 as well as the recue partition update.
I did everything you're supposed to do, and when it rebooted, the gray screen comes up, and it shows the spinny doohickey on the bottom showing that it's working. Then, suddenly, up pops a big "no" icon (the circle with the slash through it) after about 60 seconds.
It simply doesn't do anything after that.
Hard-power-off, wait, power-on, repeat, same thing.
So I reboot with cmd-R to get the rescue partition. It works fine; I ask it to re-install Mac OS X, which then takes about 45 minutes (argh). Finally, Mac OS X is back, the machine is nicely booted up, all my files are there, everything is good.. But of course, the reinstall took me back to 10.7.1.
All I want to do is upgrade my fricking iPhone to IOS 5.0, but I can't do that without knowing I can sync which requires iCloud which of course requires 10.7.2. So I *have* to re-do the upgrade.
Back to Software Update, back to installing 10.7.2. And .. 20 minutes later .. back to bricked MacBook Air.
What a waste of my time. What a failure, Apple. I'm very very very very very unhappy that I've wasted so much time just to update my damned iPhone to IOS 5. I'm still without an update. Now I'm trying to figure out how to move my iTunes to another machine -- not nearly as obvious as it should be. ARGH. I'm going to throw this MacBook Air off the balcony in about 10 minutes. :-(
Thanks for listening.
Steve

Wow, you're right -- I can't believe it. I just really can't believe they would screw up so badly, yet when I search for "10.7.2 filevault" I don't find more than a couple of articles about it on the web (including this thread). Why on earth wouldn't Apple have put up some kind of warning about this? I can't believe it, really. It's insane.
On my newly-functional 10.7.2 MBA, I wanted to test your theory and so I turned on filevault 2 and encrypted the main disk again. It of course wanted me to reboot. So I rebooted. And *blammy* -- same error / boot failure. Wow. Also, interestingly, even on a working 10.7.2 system, you can't mount a USB drive that was encrypted using Filevault 2 encryption (in Disk Utility, e.g., as a "Mac OS X, journalled, encrypted" volume that was encrypted with DiskUtility on Lion 10.7.1). I still have a 10.7.1 machine that I will not upgrade until I can at least decrypt the disk -- but right now, Disk Utility tells me it fails decrypting the external USB disk so I'm hosed!!! ARGH.
Now, going back to the booting problem after upgrade -- for anyone's reference who's still keeping score -- you can easily recover from the booting problem with upgrading a Filevault 2 root drive: Power-cycle the machine and then hold down cmd-r to bring up the Lion Recovery application. Within Lion Recovery, choose "Disk Utility", and then click on the (as yet unmounted, still encrypted) root hard drive to select it. Then go to the File menu, and choose "Turn off encryption" for this disk. It then prompts you for the password, and if you enter it, *blammy* you're back up and running again.
In my case, the disk had only just begun encrypting so the action was instant, and then once it confirmed the disk was now decrypted, I simply chose "Restart" from the Apple menu, and I was back in business (no hairy re-installs to deal with). If this is an already-encrypted volume, presumably it'll take you a bit longer (the normal 45-minutes to 2 hours) to decrypt it. But at least no more installing software -- it'll "just work".
Maybe I'll go post a simpler version of these instructinos on the other threads, but this is the simplest fix -- just turn off filevault 2 from within Lion Recovery, basically, and that fixes the boot problems.
Apple, if you're listening, you really really really need to say something to your users so they know. Many many many MBA users are likely to have still not upgraded. You can prevent them from hating you and your products by making sure they don't screw the pooch here. Short version: Mid-2011 MacBook Airs running Filevault 2 WILL NOT BOOT after 10.7.2 update; so users should turn off Filevault2 before upgrading.
Steve

3GS freezes on upgrade ipHone 4.0.2 - it's a brick now!

Hi,
I Have a 3GS on contract from O2 in the UK. Last night I got the note in iTunes to say that 4.0.2 is ready for installing. I was on 4.0.1 and have the lastest iTunes in Win 7 / 32-bit. So I did a sync, and started the upgrade. Unfortunately it stalled at some point and just froze.
So I removed the USB plug and got to the "restore iPhone" point, and clicked on "Restore" in iTunes. That unpacked the already downloaded software, verified with Apple, and started the restore. Unfortunately that gets about 3/4 along the progress bar in iTunes and 1/4 on the iPhone - and stalls.
So I tried a few things:
- reinstalled iTunes
- restarted Windows and tried again
- downloaded jpsw files for 4.0.1 and 4.0.2 (iPhone2,14.0.1_8A306Restore and iPhone2,14.0.2_8A400Restore) and pointed to these when I Shift-Clicked on the restore button. With the 4.0.2 it starts up, but freezes at the same point. With 4.0.1 it says something about being an incorrect version and doesn't attempt an installation.
I can't see anything else to try and my iPhone is a brick - please help!!

Hi again. Panic over. I deleted the ipsw file in %AppData% and started agai - and it seems to have gone well. The phone seems to work again.

Did I just brick my board? MSI P67A-GD55

So I decided to flash my BIOS to the newest version. I downloaded the newest BIOS and proceeded to flash the BIOS with the MSI utility. After the computer restarted it beeped a couple of times like usual, but it did not continue to windows after that and the screen went black. I saw that the USB stick was being used(light on the USB stick was flashing) so I didn't do anything.
But even after about 45 minutes nothing at happened, the screen was still black. I was reading around online and some people said to clear the CMOS if this happens. After I cleared CMOS and restarted the computer, I got no beeps and no video signal at all. And now nothing happens at all. It does not even beep like usual.
I removed all the ram and restarted the computer and that time I got 3 long beeps. When I put them back in nothing happened like before. So did I brick my board? Is there any way to bring this board back to life? This board was advertised as having a Bios recovery feature(M flash) anyone know how I can use that?
Thanks for your help.
BTW, I am already going to get a new board, but I won't have it until at least the end of this month. Anyone know how long MSI RMAs take? Will they even RMA the board?
Not related, but I was also having a problem with fan control on this motherboard. No matter what the CPU fan would run at max speed.
Specs of my build:
i7 2700K
MSI P67A GD 55 Rev B
16GB Team 1600Mhz RAM
MSI 660Ti PE OC
520W Antec Neo Eco PSU
1 TB Seagate Barracuda

Quote from: xmad on 10-March-13, 10:25:51
If you sent it to MSI in the USA, that is odd as they usually turn things around in 7 working days. If it is a re-seller or outside of the USA it is hard to say how long it will take.
In the usa to check for status, email [email protected] Place the RMA# in your subject and ask for an update.
Yeah this is in the US, the place I sent the motherboard to is only like 3 hours from my house actually.
I'll send them a email. Their online tracker doesn't seem to be updated that often and I can't even go to the tracking page right now for some reason.

PLEASE HELP! Hooking up WRT54G2 to a Verizon GT704-WG

I have searched here and google, no luck. Here is what I am trying to do. I have Verizon DSL in a two story house, Verizon only issues and uses one modem/router (Actiontec GT704-WG). I have no houses near me within 1500 feet. It is a wireless router also, just like the Linksys. My main PC is upstairs and runs Vista. My second PC is downstairs, runs XP and has a Linksys WMP110 in it. Wireless signal of no type can go through the ceiling on the first floor, not even cordless phone. Must be insulation of some sort. So, I installed an ethernet port upstairs and ran CAT-5 down the wall and installed the second port. However, my second PC is three rooms away and running CAT-5 to it is impossible. So I bought a Linksys WRT54G2 in hopes to send out the signal for the first floor. I have the main PC upstairs hooked up to the Verizon modem/router at Port#4 and internet functions perfectly. I disabled any security to remove a variable so I can get this going. I hooked up a Ethernet cable to Port#3 and ran it to the wall jack port I installed. I hooked my downstairs PC temporarily at the downstairs wall jack port and hard lined the connection to see if it is good through the wall. Perfect, everything is a go. I took the WRT54G2, upgraded the firmware on it and also disabled security. Hooked up the wall jack to Port#4 on the WRT54G2 in hopes of sending out the signal to my secondary pc to its WMP110. That is how I want my system to work.
I read you need to turn off DHCP on the WRT54G2 and select Router in the setup menu. Did that and saved. I also read change the IP of it to 192.168.2.1, did that and saved. No connection. I hook up the WRT54G2 to my PC to configure it and I cant access the setup menu. Wont let me and I have no other network adapter hooked to my PC. I turn off, hold reset button, and now it will give me the setup screen at 192.168.1.1 . So, doing this numerous times I see that it doesnt like me to change the IP of it. Call verizon, they have me basically hook it up the way I described above and setup the WRT54G2 to clone the Actiontec router, that doesnt work either. Linksys techline has me try to do some PPPoE deal and that is a no go either. I know this has to work, I have seen it done before.
I have any info someone needs to help me setup both of these routers, so I can have the downstairs just repeat the signal. Or whatever suggestion you think is better. I am just frustrated after 5 days of trying myself, verizon tech and linksys tech. All other posts from people never say if they solved it and if they did they dont say how.

Check the IP from the first router and change it accordingly on the WRT54G2
For example:- IP of the first router is 192.168.1.1 then change IP on wrt54g2 192.168.1.2 and disable the DHCP. You may get error for page cannot be displayed or the page might hung up. Just unplug the power from the router and plug it back after a few seconds. Now connect the cable to any LAN port and not internet. You should be able to go online.
Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Problems setting up WRT54G2 router

I'm having problems setting up my Linksys WRT54G2 router. I want my mac laptop (iBook G3 running OSX) to use a wireless connection, and the home computer (running Windows XP) to stay connected to the modem.
I originally tried to set up the router by connecting it via ethernet to my laptop (and by ethernet to the modem), and went into the 192.168.1.1 address to configure it. The internet works fine on my laptop when connected to the wireless by ethernet but it can't connect wirelessly (it has an original airport card fitted, at first I thought I might need to upgrade the firmware but I ran a software update and one didn't come up). I then realised that I would need to MAC clone from the PC, that is connected to the modem? I tried to do this today, but I couldn't access the 192.168.1.1 address from the PC. I have tried resetting the router, and disabling the firewall but still can't access it. This PC also has anti-virus software running too - could this be the problem, or am I setting it up wrong? Thanks.

If you are trying to Setup your Router with the setup disk, Then you can exit from the setup and configure your Router manually. Before you configure your router, you need to Press and hold the reset button for 60 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 60 seconds and re-connect the power cable.....
You need to connect your Modem to Linksys Router on Internet Port and your Computer to Linksys Router on Port No.1.
If your Internet Service Providor is Cable follow this link
If your Internet Service Providor is DSL follow this link
Here are the Wireless Settings which you can set on your router, once done you can try connecting your MAC computer to your Wireless network and check if you are Online from MAC computer.
Open an Internet Explorer browser page on your wired computer(desktop).In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1
Leave username blank & in password use admin in lower case...
For Wireless Settings, please do the following : -
Click on the Wireless tab
-Here select manual configuration...Wireless Network mode should be mixed...
-Provide a unique name in the Wireless Network Name (SSID) box in order to differentiate your network from your neighbours network...
- Set the Radio Band to Wide-40MHz and change the Wide channel to 9 and Standard Channel to 11-2.462GHz...Wireless SSID broadcast should be Enabled and then click on save settings...
Please make a note of Wireless Network Name (SSID) as this is the Network Identifier...
For Wireless Security : -
Click on the Sub tab under Wireless > Wireless Security...
Change the Wireless security mode to WPA, For Encryption, select AES...For Passphrase input your desired WPA Key. For example , MySecretKey , This will serve as your network key whenever you connect to your wireless network. Do NOT give this key to anyone.
NOTE : Passphrase should be more that 8 characters...
Click on Advanced Wireless Settings
Change the Beacon Interval to 75 >>Change the Fragmentation Threshold to 2304 Change the RTS Threshold to 2307 >>Click on "Save Settings"...
Now see if you can locate your Wireless Network and attempt to connect...

ZR will not update - Phone is a brick

My 2 month old Xperia ZR (purchased unlocked from Amazon at $549 US) is now a brick. I bought this phone for its ability to survive underwater, dust resistance and drop test. It seems just the rugged phone that I needed for 24x7x365 support duty.
Well, I should have asked if the phone would survive an upgrade. Apparently, it does not.
Performing the 10.3.1.A.2.67 system upgrade failed as I used PC Companion on Win7. I was warned it would take 30 minutes for the upgrade by PC Companion. At 26 minutes, I received an error message. The retry also failed. Then, the driver would not load and Win7 kept telling me the ZR was an unknown USB dev ice.
BUT, by this time, my phone was a brick. It would turn on, show the SONY logo and, then, turn off.
So, I call Sony Mobile Tech Support (1-866-766-9374 or 1-877-7XPERIA). Mayelin sent my a procedure to try in recovering my phone. No go. So, I call back and talk to Jamie. She doesn't even want to read my case notes (1-840176438). She goes to read the notes and transfers me to Mr. Dialtone. I call back and take to Natasha and ask for a Supervisor. Apparently, Sony does not staff their Call Centers with Supervisors. So, she asks for my number in order to have someone in Escalations call me back. No, she did not know when the callback would take place nor any timeframe like that there.
After 25 years of technical support experience in data networks, I know bull**bleep** when I hear it. There really ought to be a law that mandates Supervisors be present and available at all times a support call center is operating. The support bull**bleep** performed by companies such as Sony, and/or its outsource support vendors, is just criminal considering how much their products cost. Very unprofessional and user hostile.
I have included the procedure sent to me by Mayelin. It may be of help to some other poor and unfortunate person who might have also bought this Hercules of a phone.
I will wait until Monday when I might be able to get a Supervisor. I will then discuss how useless it is for me to undergo their 7-10 business days "evaluation" return-to-factory service when their system upgrade killed my phone. I would expect and advance replacement on the next business day at the very least. BUT, apparently, $549 does not get you this when you buy one of these indestructible phones.
How sad. Has Sony quality really come to this? I own a lot of Sony A/V and some professional products. I just bought one of their new VAIO laptops at top dollar from a Sony Store (Stanford Shopping Center).
If this experience has taught me anything is that I should probably stick to Sony Ericsson or not buy Sony Mobile products at all. My old Sony-Ericsson T515 never gave me any hiccups as big as this Xperia ZR is giving me.
ZRSUCKS
Dear ZRSUCKS,
Thank you for contacting Sony Xperia™ Online Support.
We have an extended guide that should help you fix the issue on your phone, please follow the instructions carefully:
Visit this link:
http://www.sonymobile.com/us/tools/pc-companion/
Click on Download PC Companion
Run the software and install it
Turn the phone off and disconnect it from the computer
1. No matter what the program says do not connect the phone until you complete step 9
2. In the welcome screen you will see the different modules available for you including the "Support Zone" option. Click on "Start" below it.
3. On the next page Click on "Start" under "Phone Software Update"
At this point if you get an error stating that "Unable to install update components" or "Server is busy" , then please proceed to step 12
4. The program will say that there is no phone connected. Click on the option below that reads: "Repair my phone" the program will issue you a warning about the content that you will lose during the update
5. Choose the option to continue.
6. The program will issue a final message warning you of possible data lost during the update. Click on the checkmark and then on "Next".
7. After that, the program will download the necessary information (5 to 6 minutes) and it will present you with a list of phones.
8. Choose your phones model from the list then click on "Next" then you will see a new section telling you how to connect the phone. (don't connect it yet)
At this point the phone must be off and disconnected from the PC.
9. Connect the cable to the PC not to the phone, then while pressing and holding the indicated button (in the steps on screen an specific button will be shown for you to press on the phone) connect the cable to the phone and keep holding the indicated button until the program says "the update of your phone has started..." (in some cases a message of "Installing drivers" will appear before the message of "the update of your phone has started..." is shown.)
10. If you failed to follow the steps correctly the phone will turn on and it will request that you "Proceed with the following steps, slide down the notification bar", If this happens disconnect the phone from the cable, turn it off and repeat from step 9).
11. If the phone is connected properly, PC Companion will proceed with the update ( It will tell you to let go of the back key) then wait for the update to finish and follow instructions on screen to disconnect the unit.
Dear Customer,
12. If "Unable to install update components"
1. Close PC Companion
2. Install Java from: http://www.java.com
3. Start PC Companion again and try to do the software unlock process once more.
Note: If you wish only to update the unit wait for the program to open and then select the quick link on the upper left corner that says "Update Phone/Tablet" and follow the instructions to perform the update. (the PC may request for the phone to be placed in Mass Storage mode. Do this by going into Settings>Xperia>Connectivity>USB connection mode)
As part of Sony Mobile's commitment to excellent customer service, we offer a wide variety of mobile products to suit your lifestyle. If you require more information, or have any other questions, please visit www.sonymobile.com or call us at 1-866-766-9374 .
Kind Regards,
Mayelin
Sony Xperia US Customer Services

Use SUS instead
Update Service (SUS)
http://www.sonymobile.com/gb/tools/update-service/
http://www-support-downloads.sonymobile.com/Software%20Downloads/Update_Service_Setup-2.11.12.5.exe
Don't forget to give Kudos (Click on the half star + )
"I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

WRT54G2 and WRT54G locks-up (freezes) when blocking web sites using Access Restrictions

I am convinced that a few Linksys routers such as WRT54G2 and WRT54G have a major issue when blocking web sites using Access Restrictions (Internet Access Policy). After a few hours of internet access by 15 wired users the Linksys locks-up and blocks all internet web access. The only solution is to restart the power on the router.
We are currently using a Linksys WRT54G2 v1 (firmware 1.0.04). We upgraded the WRT54G2 v1 firmware to the latest 1.0.04 version which did not resolve the issue. NOTE: We were previosuly using a a Linksys WRT54G v1.1 (firmware 4.21.1) until the power supply blew a week after we started blocking web sites using Access Restrictions (Internet Access Policy).
Basically, we have a T1 internet connection and a hub connected to the Linksys router. We are trying to block several web sites such as facebook, myspace, etc. for 15 wired users. We do not use wireless connections.
This is the 2nd time it happened with 2 different models.
Please help ASAP.
Thank you,
Lance
(Mod note: Edited post. Some parts off topic.. Thanks!)

Also, you have already upgrade/re-flash the firmware of your Linksys Router you need to reset and reconfigure your router from scratch. Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...

MacBook Pro 8,2 bricked radeon/i915 even outside linux

My hardware:
MacBook Pro 8,2
core i7, 8GB Ram, Radeon HD 6400M Series GPU, 1680x1050 non-glare screen
After having done a lot of reading, I tried to install Arch Linux onto my MacBook Pro. I re-installed MacOS, did all updates, and followed the wiki instructions. After a couple of failed attempts to get GRUB to EFI-boot from the Apple bootloader (carefully avoiding the usage of efibootmgr), I finally managed to EFI-boot the base system via reFind and EFISTUB. I quickly was able to set up everything I need, only X would work only with the radeon driver. But since I went through all the trouble to EFI-boot the machine solely for the purpose of being able to use the i915 graphics, I tried all the kernel paramters (radeon.modeset=0 and all the i915 parameters that are mentioned all over the places in all sorts of recommended/mentioned combinations). But no luck, startx would always exit with a "no screens found" message when configuring xorg.conf to use the "intel" driver. Needless to say, both xf86-video-radeon and xf86-video-intel were installed. Using the module acpi_call and doing "sudo turn_off_gpu.sh" ends up with "failed" messages only. Doing "lspci | grep VGA" returns both intel and AMD graphics adapter, so I should actually have successfully booted in EFI mode. I started blacklisting the radeon module, but lspci -k still shows the radeon module for the gpu. The only thing I did not try is adding the "outb" lines to GRUB as I'm not using GRUB and was very reluctant to change anything about my working EFI boot setup. Finally, I decided to try vgaswitcheroo. I read that I need to enable debugfs in the fstab before, so I added the line "debugfs /sys/kernel/debug debugfs 0 0" to fstab. Careful as I am, I rebooted before installing vgaswitcheroo.
And from then on, arch linux boots into a black screen. I can log in if I switch to tty1 or another and type blind, and I can reboot that way. Just as a routine, I try to boot up MacOS, and it also boots into a black screen. This has always worked so far, I tried that regularly. I totally panick and grab an Ubuntu 12.04 CD that happens to lie around and boot it via the apple bootloader in bios compatibility mode (which worked, before, too). It also boots into black screen. Even the darn MacOS Install DVD boots into a black scren now!
But I'm not the one that gives up easily. Since Arch displays all the boot messages until it loads the virtual console (I think), I messed around with the kernel parameters again and it turns out I can get to console login if I use radeon.modeset=0. I configured X to use the fbdev driver again, and there you go, I get graphical login and whatnot with radeon.modeset=0. Still, even though fbdev is used, the temperature is around 70 to 80 degrees Celsius. I decide to finally install vgaswitcheroo (systemd-vgaswitcheroo-units), since the whole thing is bricked anyway, and enable it via systemd. Radeon module is blacklisted. I still am only able to reach graphical or console target when radeon.modeset=0 is set, but now I got a X running with desktop effects on fbdev driver and around 50 degrees Ceslius temperature. Still, every other OS boots into black screen.
I seem to have completely messed up everything. Strangely enough, the arch system seems to be completely usable (except that it wakes up from suspend with that black screen now), but it seems to be the only system that can be run on that machine now. I would greatly appreciate any help on what might have gone wrong or what I could try to enable the gpu for other systems again.
Edit: I seem to have managed to brick reFind now, too. While trying to boot the MacOS Installation medium it seems to have magically "fixed" the EFI partition leaving me with no reFind at all now. There's no way I can access that stupid thing anymore. Gotta send it in, probably (
Last edited by halogene (2013-05-29 15:57:58)

I'm still reluctant to give up on that bricked machine... Since it is able to display part of the boot up messages of the arch install cd and the previously working installation showed everything until loading of the virtual console (at least that's what I believe it did when the screen went black), it looks to me that the problem lies in initializing a different graphical output. That would also explain why I was able to initialize X only with the fbdev driver... and the screen didn't flicker during boot-up when I did radeon.modeset=0 so I assume it stayed on framebuffer mode all along.
Does anyone know of a boot medium that boots into framebuffer video mode even though a GPU is present? All I'd need is a bash or similar shell. I can load into the UEFI shell with arch install CD, but I'm not familiar with that shell and it follows a different syntax than I am used to, as it is designed for an entirely different purpose. If anyone knows a boot medium that does not try to pipe the graphical output through the gpu (or the integrated i915 graphics). Must be something like this around?
Last edited by halogene (2013-05-31 08:16:13)

WRT54G2 Bricked?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for