WRT54GS firmware issues

Hello all,
I have a befsr41 now for about 6 years and it has been great. I recently purchased a WRT54GS to replace it, so that I can have another wireless access point, along with TZO.
I installed the 54GS and manually copied all of my port forwards from the BEFSR41. Things seemed to work. I was on firmware 1.50.6. I upgraded to the 1.52.0 and suddenly all of my port forwarding stopped working.
Not exactly sure what to do, so I stuck my BEFSR41 back in and everything went back to normal again.
Any sugestions, other than backrev? I upgraded because I did have issue getting an IP address from my provider.
Tom
Message Edited by Cafetom on 03-14-200707:54 PM
Message Edited by Cafetom on 03-14-200707:55 PM

Nopers, did not work.
I did get some aftermarket firmware to load on my router that seems to work much better than the Cisco/linksys firmware. .
Thanks for the help anyway.
Sincerely,
Tom

Similar Messages

Firmware Issues / BUG Report for WRT54GS v1.1

Hi all,
Router = WRT54GS (version 1.1 as printed on the bottom of the router)
My current firmware (most up to date) = v 4.71.4
I have found a few issues when using the following:
QoS related issues:
When using QoS, if users wish to disble it tempermentally (or change any other option), then re-enable it, any wireless device cannot access the LAN or WAN. This is regardless of static or DHCP IP. In order to fix this the user must reset the wireless security after re-enabling the QoS (disable the wireless security, save settings, set the security options again, and save settings)
If a user changes the routers IP to something other than the default when using QoS wireless devices are unable to connect using either static or dynamic IP.
Other issues I have encountered:
When setting wireless security up I chose WPA2-Personal (TKIP+AES). I also use MAC filter as well and only allow those that I specify to connect to the router. This works no problem. My problem is that if I disable SSID broadcasting my wireless devices will not connect regardless of static or dynamic IP. I have made sure there is sufficient strengh of the network (by sitting only a few feet from the router with my laptop to test this).
How do I report these issues? Will they be addressed in the next future release of firmware?
Thanks,
Pete

Hi, just to let you know. Reset, then re-configured and it is still having the issues as I have posted above. So deffiantly a router firmware issue I would say.
New Firmware version upgraded to: v4.70.8
Pete
Message Edited by aniceguy on 05-01-2009 01:58 AM

WRT54GS Connection issue

I have been using a WRT54GS without issue for the last 3 years. Two weeks ago a problem arose which stopped the router from opening new connections after some arbitrary amount of time. Thinking it was just an age issue i quickly went out and purchased the identical router only to hook it up and find an identical issue. The problem causes both wired and wireless connections to lose the ability to create new connections to the internet any old connections opened, for example an online radio station or an online game continue to work if they were opened before the issue arose, I can not however open new connections. After the second router proved useless i figured it must be my internet connection so i bypassed the router and hooked up my connection directly to the back of my computer, no issues. I have already updated the firmware of both devices to no avail, any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated after already wasting the $50 on the second WRT54GS and losing the receipt to return it i would prefer to avoid spending more money on a new router if possible, thanks.

Hard reset your router to factory settings and then re-configure it...To reset the linksys router press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...
If your Internet Service Providor is Cable follow this link
If your Internet Service Providor is DSL follow this link

WRT54G Connection Issues *Odd!*

Hey All,
Before I begin, I'll just say now that I do have some networking experience and have tried both 'Googling' and searching for an answer on my own. Ok, on to the problem.
Host Computer (Desktop): Windows XP 32-bit
Wireless PC (Desktop): Windows 7 32-bit
Router: WRT54G Firmware Version 8.00.8 build 001
ISP: Optimum Online (Cable)
Router to Wireless PC distance: approximately 15-20 feet, same floor. 2 Wooden doors between them.
Issue: The wireless PC (running a Netgear WPN311 Rangemax Adaptor) is having frequent connection drops and latency issues. I've upgraded the firmware, hard rebooted, changed the wireless channel, moved any objects emitting a frequency away, and reset all settings to scratch. I've deleted all wireless profiles off my PC (then added the correct one) and made sure to change the settings so it does NOT connect to a stronger signal network.
Now here's the odd part. About 80% of the time I get a drop or extremely low signal I notice the wireless PC picks up a phantom network with the name "linksys". The network has a poor, unsecured connection. Is it possible my router is emitting 2 SSID's?? I'm pretty frustrated with the drops as it (of course!) happens when I'm in a game or watching some online videos using significant bandwidth.
Any help would be appreciated..Thanks!

Set your SSID to something unique. Lower down the MTU. Increase the Beacon Interval found in Advanced Wireless sub-tab.

WRT54G, Firmware Version: 8.00.2, Stops routing after a day, Requires Power Cycle to Work Properly

WRT54G, Firmware Version: 8.00.2, Stops routing after a day, requires a quick 10-15 second power cyc... work properly for a day or so before powering down again….
I was using for years the BEFW11S4 Model without any issues before it finally failed. Due to loyalty, I went out over a month ago to purchase the current model. The problems did not pop-up until month of December… The issue had me thinking at first was the internet connection…
Any advice on dealing with this issue… Is it a Software and/or Hardware? It appears to be a software related condition…
For those other WRT54G users that appear to be having similar issues, regardless of the firmware, it would appear we all seem to be facing the same condition of resolving the issue after a power cycle…
Is there anyone out there that has already resolved this issue (e.g. Configuration changes)? Does anyone have input that Linksys is actively working on this issue?
Although I am sure we will find a solution, having to cycle the power is a bit disappointing since my older model had no such flaws with my current internet connection…
Thanks for the support out there….

If you have an Intel wireless card you can try this. I came across this link on the forum a days ago and it seems to help. The problem is that my problem was much more intermittent than some people are experiencing. It mainly seemed to appear when undocked the computer or if there was a power outage during the day. I would be interested to see if it works for you or if I'm just chasing my tail. I've seen other suggestions for changing the thresholds in the router which may be related.
http://www.intel.com/support/wireless/wlan/sb/cs-006205.htm

Beige G3 boot from **** problem; open firmware issues; bad motherboard?

Dear all,
I'm having huge boot/startup problems with my beige G3 that had been happily running OSX 10.3.9, but for purposes of this discussion we can (mostly) revert to OS 9. Originally, the machine was a G3 @300; was upgraded more than a year ago to a ZIF G4 @500.
To make a long story short, it won't boot from any hard drives, will not boot from any OS X CD, and will only occasionally boot from a 9.x startup CD (whether Apple or Norton Utilities). I think it's an open firmware issue, possibly caused by a bad motherboard (rev. 2).
All this started happening after I used techtool pro, but I think that's coincidence (even though I acknowledge that, for cops and computer users, there are no coincidences.) Also, as discussed below, I'm having the same problems with an HD that wasn't even in the computer when all these things began.
Here are some of the things I've done.
--repeatedly reset PRAM, both with key combinations and removing battery. The only time it will boot from a 9.x CD is after resetting PRAM.
--removed all add-on PCI cards.
--removed additional VRAM
--removed all memory cards and tried replacing one at a time.
--disconnected both existing hard drives and replaced with an older OS 9.x hard drive (approx 60 mb) that I'd used before. Also tried different ribbon cables.
--unplugged floppy drive
--disconnected PCI ATA disk controller that I'd been using for running a large (1.8 gb) hard drive.
--regarding open firmware: readenv usually shows totally normal default AND installed settings. Using reset-all works fine -- at least it makes the machine reboot, but doesn't solve the problem. reset-nvram does NOT work -- says it's an "unknown word."
--using startup keys like holding down the option key, or shift key, or X key or cmd-option plus two others I can't remember, has no effect. Again, after I've tried any kind of reboot, the ONLY way to get the C-key at startup to boot the CD is by resetting the pram (key combination). Otherwise, the usual result of these experiments is a dark screen on startup -- nothing at all (and the LCD monitor tells me "no input.")
--regarding OSX: sometimes (and I emphasize sometimes) I can get the machine to start booting from an OSX 10.2 CD, but it won't complete the process. Sometimes I get a "prohibited" (as in no-parking, no-smoking) icon; sometimes it will start booting (grey screen, OS X Apple icon), then crash (horizontal grey and white jagged bars); sometimes it will show the OS 9 start icon (the tiny smiling Mac SE), but not boot at all.
--when I get the mac successfully booted with an OS 9.x CD (again, this works sometimes, but not always), the old hard drive with two partitions does show on the desktop and can be accessed. Using either disk repair or Norton Utilities shows the 9.2 system partition on the hard drive to be fine. But if I go to the startup disk control panel, confidently set the 9.2 partition as my startup disk, then reboot, there's no change. It won't boot and I'm back at square one.
--even when I do get successfully booted with 9.x, the machine will still occasionally crash for no reason -- ie when I'm moving a Window.
--the only thing I haven't done is slowed down the processor. It's a ZIF G4 bought more than a year ago from XLR8 your Mac. I'm running at the default 500 mhz, and it's never given me any trouble.
So I think it's a bad motherboard or ROM. Thoughts?
Thanks.

The beige Mac is now operating happily again. My original tentative diagnosis remains the same (although still tentative): corrupted PRAM from bad battery, compounded by bad cables that wrote corrupted data to hard drives, and also (possibly) allowing Tech Tool Pro (a utility that I now regard with deep suspicion) to create a "virtual" startup partition.
A few things I've learned along the way that hopefully may be useful:
--remember that the Ex Post Facto utility can be used to help OS X startup, not just installation. This applies to hard drives, emergency CDs, installation CDs, etc. If you can boot into any working hard drive partition (OS 9 or a backup OS 10), then run Ex Post Facto (same program runs on either OS 9 or X -- don't ask me how) and tell it what system you want to start up from. Also, the utility has sometimes told me that the startup extensions on the disc that I wanted to boot up from were bad, and offered to fix them (which works).
--at least on my Mac (beige, v. 2 motherboard), resetting the CUDA button, resetting the PRAM, resetting Open Firmware and "draining" the memory by unplugging the computer and disconnecting the battery for several hours ALL DO DIFFERENT THINGS.
Specifically, if I'm having trouble booting (from a hard drive or a CD), the FIRST thing I do is restart and resetting the PRAM on the fly -- holding down command, option, P and R at startup, and waiting for the chimes (preferably at least 3-4 times).
If I do that and DON'T hear the chimes, that's my cue for my SECOND action -- restarting into open firmware (command, option O and F keys on startup). That should bring up the black text on white background open firmware screen. View other posts or apple support for details, but if you do PRINTENV and see a bunch of weird gibberish after the default/installed lists, you know that it was messed up and you need to clear it through reset nvram and reset all commands. Be aware some of these commands do or do not work depending upon what version of Open Firmware you have.
After I've rebooted with Open Firmware, then on restart I should be able to reset the PRAM on the fly. If that works, then either let the machine run and see what happens, or hold down the C command and see if it will boot from the CD
Usually, if I've fixed everything as above, the machine will boot into whatever version of OS 9 it finds on a hard drive. That's fine with me -- at that point, use Ex Post Facto to reboot into your OS X. (Before I forget: I used the shareware startup CD creator program BootCD to make an emergency boot CD based on OS 10.2.8 (which theoretically will support a beige mac in native fashion) and Disk Warrior, the god of disk repair utilities. Even though the CD should boot just by holding down the C key on startup, it doesn't -- but if I use Ex Post Facto to boot it, no problems (although the process is very slow -- be patient). Then I can fix almost anything using Disk Warrior.)
If none of the above works, then I'll try resetting the CUDA (on my beige minitower, it's a very small black button inconveniently located between a PCI slot and the side of the computer housing). Hold it down for 15 seconds. That should REALLY clear the PRAM. I know this does something different from the previous steps because this is the only action (except the battery disconnect -- next) that clears the date and time from the memory.
If all else fails, I will unplug the computer and disconnect the battery, then push the CUDA button for 15 seconds and let the machine sit overnight.
One final finding -- I thought I'd fixed everything, but both my hard drives suddenly quit working, I discovered that during all this repeated connect/disconnect of things, one of the male pins inside one of the connectors on my Acard ATA PCI card had broken off. Not good. Fortunately, the card had a second connector, which works fine. And I did some extensive shaking of the computer to make sure (I hope) that the broken pin hadn't landed on a circuit board.
All this took more than two weeks, and the advice of this board was much appreciated. Now I'm on to my next adventure -- trying to figure out why a combo Firewire/USB PCI card won't mount an external drive on Firewire, but will on USB. I've tried two cards with same result -- but a Firewire-only card works just fine.)
Regards to all,
Graham

Happy on Leopard, hangs on sleep with Tiger: Firmware issue?

I have an early 2005 G5 dual 2.0 that I bought new. It has 2.5GB of RAM and two drives: a 1TB and a just-recently-reinstalled original 160 GB drive.
I've updated it through the years and recently it's been running Leopard 10.5.8 on the 1TB drive.
I've just replaced it with a Mac Pro as my main machine, and wanted to set up the G5 to run Classic apps, so installed the original 160GB drive, wiped it clean with Drive Genius, and did an erase and install from my original 10.4 CD, followed by a bunch of Software Update runs to get it to 10.4.11.
Trouble is, when booted in 10.4.11, every time it sleeps, the fans go into high gear and the system hangs, so I have to press the power button to shut it down.
I cleaned off the disk and reinstalled.
I zapped the PRAM/NVRAM.
I booted in Open Firmware and did a reset.
I disconnected the 10.5 disk.
I ran Apple Hardware Test.
I disconnected all cables and pressed the PMU/SMU reset button.
Had a very nervous day when reconnecting the power cord gave me a solid power LED and a non-operational power button, until I got brave and reset the PMU again with the power cord plugged in (against Apple advice, but some folks said it worked). That got me booted again.
Ran through several cycles of circle-with-bar gray screen boots, hang with loud fan boots, safe boots, etc.
None of these steps indicated anything unusual or stopped the loud fan/dark screen/hang under 10.4.11.
I'm now at the point where the machine boots fine, sleeps fine, and is generally happy as a clam when booted on my tried-and-true 10.5.8 disk, but does the loud fan/dark screen/hang when booted under 10.4.11, most consistently around sleep time, but sometimes just trying to boot.
Other possible useful debugging info:
Right now, the only things plugged in are Ethernet, Apple Keyboard, Apple Mighty Mouse, and VGA monitor with DVI adapter.
Internal speaker no longer works, but headphone jack does.
I did try during this process to get my old Thrustmaster ADB joystick running via a Griffin iMate, but those experiments are on hold until I get the base system stable.
Most posts about similar behaviors (for example, http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2444469&start=0&tstart=0) point to a hardware issue, but that doesn't make sense to me because there aren't any issues under 10.5.8.
My current thinking is that it may possibly be a firmware issue, that I have a version installed that requires 10.5.x and is not compatible with 10.4.x. System Profiler lists
Boot ROM Version: 5.2.4f1
However, I can't find much info about this version.
Even if I found a 10.4-friendly Firmware Update, I'm not sure the machine would let me install an older version.
So, does my thinking seem sound, or are there other avenues I should pursue?

No PCI cards other than stock video card.
No 3rd party kexts running. Just a fresh install of 10.4, then everything Software Update fed me to get to 10.4.11.
Safe boot does not change the behavior.
I ran several more experiments and have some more results to share.
Booting from the Tiger disk reliably caused the machine to become unresponsive when going into sleep mode, after which the fans would go to full speed after a couple of minutes. Occasionally, upon power down and power up, I'd get the gray screen with the circle/slash graphic. Powering down and powering up would then result in a successful reboot.
Booting from the Leopard disk would not cause the machine to hang when going in to sleep. However, I did notice that the machine wasn't really sleeping, either. The screen would blank, but I never heard hard disks park (the option to "put hard disks to sleep when possible" is checked in the Energy Saver System Preference), and the case fans continued spinning at low (normal) speed. Wake up took no time at all and made no sound except from the monitor. It may not be sleeping, but at least it's not crashing, either.
Perhaps there really is a hardware issue, and Leopard is handling it more gracefully than Tiger. Unfortunately, Apple Hardware Test isn't finding it, and I see nothing indicated in the logs.
It's less than ideal, but unless I find a solution, I may just put the machine in never sleep mode to keep it from crashing.

24" iMac firmware issue

I have a 24" iMac (Early 2009) that has what I believe to be a firmware issue. The computer boots up to show the grey Apple logo, with a spinning gear and progress bar showing up pretty quickly. The progress bar fills maybe 5%, then goes away, leaving the Apple logo and spinning gear. The computer doesn't boot any further, with the gear continuing to spin. It won't boot from an external drive, an install disc, or netboot. I'm unable to clear the PRAM (holding the keys down does nothing). I've removed and re-installed the RAM, and I've removed the CMOS battery on the logic board and put it back in after a couple minutes. Nothing has changed. I'm guessing a firmware update was installed and power was shut-off mid-update, causing to be stuck in this loop. Am I missing something? Is there anything I can do to clear this EFI update or reset the firmware somehow?

Hello All
As a 'newbie-switcher' (think that's right!?!), I am already on my second iMac in three months, with the first being returned within a week due to it restarting on it's own a couple of times a day and reporting no error at all! My current iMac has worked flawlessly until around a week ago when the restarting behaviour returned but as often as before, maybe once every couple of days. I reset the PRAM & SMC and checked\repaired permissions and all seemed ok until I then updated the EFI firmware a couple of days ago. I am now having similar problems, if not identical to those described here with the iMac not waking from sleep, shuting down or restarting again on it's own. And once I found it would not start at all, the screen stayed black but the fans were running on full speed! I have again reset the PRAM and SMC and will now wait and see!
During my investigations to these problems I was able to cause the iMac to instantly shutdown and restart by simply touching the cables at the rear, Power or Keyboard, and last night I shut it down by simply putting my cup of coffee down next to the iMac!!! So you would think that a loose connection on the power cord could be to blame, but flexing and bending the cables and conectors will not re-create the problem!?!
Do you guys think that I should be looking to swap it for iMac number three (third time lucky?), do you think it sounds more like a hardware problem with the power supply or the firmware?

MAJOR EWS ACCESS FIRMWARE ISSUE IN "MADE IN THAILAND" HP 7520 PRINTERS

MAJOR EWS ACCESS FIRMWARE ISSUE IN "MADE IN THAILAND" HP 7520 PRINTERS
I've borrowed 2 "Made in China" HP Photosmart 7520's. Both have a fully working EWS. (Serial Numbers begins with CN)
I've purchased 2 "Made in Thailand" HP Photosmart 7520's. EWS does NOT respond in either one. (Serial Number begins with TH)
This same finding is reported by numerous other users.
The bad news is that I cannot locate "Made in China" 7520's in any of the large electronics stores to purchase. Apparently HP has shifted their 7520 production to Thailand and in doing so has introduced a very significant bug that results in an ability to access EWS in the Thailand 7520's.
HP- Are you working to remedy the firmware bug in the "Made in Thailand" 7520's that results in a total inability to access EWS? (I'm not interested in a work-around solution. I want to be able to directly access EWS as per the specs and software)

Hi mlrobins,
I just sent you a private message. If you are not sure how to check your forum messages, this post has instructions.
Please click “Accept as Solution " if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks" for helping!
Jamieson
I work on behalf of HP
"Remember, I'm pulling for you, we're all in this together!" - Red Green.

Firmware Issue after RAM upgrade?

I have been able to reproduce a possible firmware issue:
Upgrade to 4 x 2GB plus something else (another 2 x 512MB will do).
Go to sleep mode and wake up again: fans will go mad, but they will slow down after 1-2 minutes again.
Is anybody able to confirm this? Anybody with this configuration not having this issue? (What type/manufacturer of the 2GB modules do you use?)
(several configs have been tested, it's not a matter of total memory)

This can be ruled out. It happens when the computer is at low temperature too (modules will go to about 48-54oC when running under maximum load with distributed.net-client plus Rember - no sign of additional fan activity there); when turned on and sent to sleep, the modules are at less than 30oC, same when going out of sleep mode a couple of seconds later.
AHT comes out fine, will try the SMC reset (I forgot about that - but I doubt it will help, as I tested several combinations.)

Help, please - Firmware issues

I posted on Christmas on this forum about an iPod shuffle I had received for Christmas that was having Firmware issues. I connected it to the computer via the dock, downloaded iTunes, installed all necessary software, updated the iPod as necessary and sync-ed it. When I went to play it, I got nothing. The blinking lights told me that the firmware was damaged and it needed to be restored to factory settings. I figured out that I had not disconnected it properly from the computer after updating it (light was still blinking), so I connected it again and restored it to factory settings. Then I sync-ed it again. I did this a few times, always getting the same response from my iPod: firmware damaged, needs to be restored to factory settings. I thought I had broken it, but my dad (former techie) told me that if it had been restored to factory settings and it still wasn't working, there was something wrong with the product.
TOday we went and exchanged it. Here I am, sitting here at my computer. I updated the iPod as necessary sync-ed it with my music and I am ready to go. When iTunes tells me it's okay and the light on the iPod is no longer blinking, I disconnect it, restart the iPod, plug in my earphones, press play three times like the directions say I have to do to get to the first song, and...
FIRMWARE DAMAGED, NEEDS TO BE RESTORED TO FACTORY SETTINGS...
NO!!!
I restored it.
I sync-ed it.
Nothing.
I restored it again.
I sync-ed it again.
Nothing.
Now, I am here.
Is it me? Am I doing something wrong to it? Is that it?
Somebody please help me.
God bless,
Lissa

Figured out the problem... was sync-ing the iPod wrong. Doing it from library rather than the source list.

Someone to confirm Drobo firmware issue?

The other day, I was using Lr to move a folder from an internal work drive to my external 4-bay FW800 Drobo storage device. There were many files within the folders and was taking a while so I plugged in a card reader to import new files. Both devices were on my FW800 bus on my new Mac Pro. Seems normal, but the Drobo reset itself when I added the Lexar card reader and CF card. I've gone back and forth with Drobo for months now and today, they concluded, "don't do that" and implied that it's my computer having the issues while disregarding my claim that it can be reproduced on all 3 of my Mac workstations in my office.
Does anybody else have a 4-bay FW800 Drobo that can get it to fail when:
1) Drobo is in the middle of a FW800 transfer (a simple large file copy/paste is sufficient)
2) Add another FW800 device to the bus
**This isn't a Lightroom issue, but I appreciate anybody that can help as I use the Drobo with Lightroom**

Thanks for your comments. It's tempting to do what you did and just resort to lower performance in trade for stability, but it's hard to do because of the money paid for performance AND stability. And, as well, time is money.
Drobo has most recently advised me: "don't do that" which isn't a suggestion that sits well with me. For a device that's magically 'plug-in-and-forget', it's been a non-stop stress situation and time suck for me the entire year+ I've owned it. They did replace the unit because a firewire port failed, but the new unit still has this disconnect issue like the previous. I've confirmed for them that the issue happens on multiple workstations so it's either a fundamental OS issue or more likely a Drobo programming issue. You've now confirmed that it happens on Win7 so that rules out the OS.
Most other reputable companies won't put their customers through the diagnostics hell I've been through with their tech support and numerous trouble tickets. They've been nice all along, but mostly dismissive, contradictory and forgetful about what I've done to prove their product isn't working. The most recent troubleshooting tip was "don't do that". This is the same day Apple says "send back your computer and we'll send you a new one overnight". That's customer service that cares.
I'd expect Data Robotics, by now, to say something like: "it looks like you have uncovered a firmware issue. Our newer products do not have the same issue. We will be sending you an upgraded product to remedy this issue." Instead, they say "sorry, don't do that."

Firmware Issue - Replace Laptop ?

I installed the EFI 1.7 Firmware and had problems booting from the drive.
However, was able to restore from an external drive. Since, been working OK.
Apple has offered to replace laptop, as it is still in the 14 day period.
Trying to decide if the firmware issues discussed in this forum may reappear or are they gone for good ?
Should I replace or do you think the problem is gone for good ?

Personally, I'd take up their offer of a replacement machine.

PS Vita Left Analog Stick Defect or Possible Firmware Issues!

Just bought the 3G vita a few days ago, I noticed yesterday while playing Motor Storm RC, left movement was limited and when trying to turn left would crash into walls, the right movement was perfectly fine. I then powered off the Vita and it wouldn't power off, it seemed to be in a hung state, so I held down the power button until it turned off, when turning back on it went into what I think was safe mode, I select the Restart option. I then started to play again, no issues left and right movement was fine again making me think it might be a firmware issue. Today I was playing Fifa Football, after some time I noticed the player kept running to the right without stick input, to stop him, you had to give it some left input, but once you let go just kept going right as if I was pushing the analogue stick hard right. The best way to tell was to go to the Fifa Arena where it’s just free play and you can see it happen easily. I powered off the Vita and powered it back on immediately and the problem went away, it was work perfectly fine again, once again leading me to believe it is a firmware issue. Has anyone noticed similar issues?

ICYR1 wrote:
Yeah, a bit disappointed with that response. Sony must keep all the good units for themselves. Anyway it will be interesting to see if the next FW fixes the issue.
If you're referring to the response from the guy named "PllayStation" (with the extra L) and thinking he works for Sony, he doesn't - if he did he would have a title such as "Moderator" under his name, not "Member". It seems he's just a rather large fan. In regards to your issue though, are you definitely not holding the stick in a certain direction when turning on the console? It sounds like the stick is calibrating its neutral position at bad times (such as when its being moved). If it does this mid-game, so it's working fine then suddenly the issue occurs, I would suggest contacting PlayStation support for some troubleshooting and/or to see what your other options are - their number is in the back of all game's instruction manuals.

Apple Firmware Issues w/16x DVD+R's?

ALL:
I have an 8x superdrive in my G5 dual 1.8 ghz system. I know a while back Apple had potential firmware issues when you tried to burn a 4x or faster dvd in a 2x burner. Does anyone know of any compatibility issues putting a 16x DVD + or - R into an 8x superdrive.
Thank you in advance! -john

ah sorry, when i looked earlier, i thought it just
said "imac" for info. didn't know it was intel.
Boy!, and i nearly went thru w/ your initial advice too ! Even tho' Intel IS there in my info, i'm sure i don't list it in the accepted way, so. . . .
on the other hand, i see you registered 2 1/2 weeks before me and have racked up ! 1,083 ! posts ! in 7 weeks __that's a shade scary, and , having almost suffered from your "hasty diagnosis", i wonder if "speed don't serve need"
_Don't wanna' offend or be off-base here, but be careful with that hummingbird approach to "roadside assistance".
I will, however, try your 2nd approach as i understand it and am far less likely to mess THaT up ! --=thanks
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.7) Intel / 20 " / 2 GB Ram / "500" GB memory / LaCie 500 GB external. . .
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.6)
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.6)

WRT54GS firmware issues

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