WRTU54G-TM Internet / Blue-light & XP SP3 Issues

So I've been wrestling with getting the WRTU54G-TM maintain a constant internet and "blue light" connection now for over a month. I thought I had finally stabilized the situation (downloaded the set-up wizard from the Linksys site, as others recommended) and used that to set up the router, and everything seemed to be rock solid for a week or so.
Then I installed both iTunes 8 (which installs the new version of the Bonjour service) and XP Service Pack 3 in the same weekend, and now the WRTU54G-TM gets flaky every time I turn on my computer (it's fine when the computer is off).
At first I thought it was the Apple Bonjour application, but after un-installing that, the WRTU54G-TM was still flaky. I then upgraded the router to the latest firmware version (v1.00.09), but still no luck. The router will lose the internet connection (and the blue light), and after a few minutes the connection will come back and the blue light will come back a few minutes after that (at least no power cycle is needed).
So I'm left wondering if XP SP3 is what is now causing the problem and is doing something to mess with the router connectivity.
Does anyone know of SP3 issues with the WRTU54G-TM and how to resolve these?
Thanks!
Ian

I did a little bit more research and found that XP SP3 is indeed causing a number of routers to crash and reboot (which is what I'm experiencing when my computer is on).
Apparently there is some issue involving DCHP and "Option 43" which can cause some routers to reboot. There's more information and a hotfix here http://support.microsoft.com/kb/953761 which I'm going to try tonight (crossing my fingers) and hopefully it will solve the problem...

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WRTU54G-TM try this to fix blue light problems, dropping service and disconnects

I spent a ton of time on the phone with T-Mobile, Linksys and the internet company to solve the problem of the router kicking off frequently.
The last suggestions, which has worked so far is to log into your router. Change the MTU from automatic to manual and then type in 1450. Save and it will reboot. Wait until your back online and you should have NO problems. Linksys says this is the workaround until tmobile releases the ok on new firmware.
if its blinking blue either call tmobile and have them deactivate the voicemail on that line or you need to set it up.
Good luck.

Hi,
I just started the t-Mobile @ Home service with the WRTU54G-TM router this weekend and had all sorts of issues with the router rebooting and dropping the blue-light.
I have AT&T DSL with a 5100 Speedstream modem. Before getting the Linksys router, I had a 5 year old Netgear wireless router that had a rock solid internet connection - only dropped it 3 times over a 5 year period.
After having a full day off issues with the t-Mobile Linksys router, I decided to try reconfiguring my network so I had the Netgear router in between the Linksys and the modem.
I downloaded the latest set-up wizard from Linksys and ran it (and followed the instructions to the "t"), and chose the option to keep my existing network (with the netgear router) and add the t-Mobile Linksys router to the existing network. Since the Linksys has better wireless and security features than the old Netgear router, I still have all my wireless traffic going through the Linksys (I turned off the wireless features of the Netgear router). All the Netgear router is doing is keeping the internet connection alive.
So far (it's only been one day), I've seen a dramatic improvement - haven't lost the blue light once and everything seems to be running fine. If you had an existing router that worked will prior to adding the T-mobile one, I would encourage you to try this set-up, since it has worked very well for me.

HELP ME Please ! No Blue Lights on both of my WRTU54G-TM Routers behind a WRT54GX2 Router

I've had this configuration installed and working for the past two months as such:
Motorola Cable Modem - COX Cable ISP - 15Mbps down / 5Mbps up ; actual rated is higher on speedtest.net
Linksys Router - WRT54GX2 (I'll refer to this as main Router)
Linksys T-Mobile Router - WRTU54G-TM - with 2 SIM cards (this is VOIP router 2 for two lines)
Linksys T-Mobile Router - WRTU54G-TM - with 1 SIM card (this is VOIP router 1 for one line)
Network Topology:
Main Router:     192.168.2.1    router mode ; DHCP ON; Wireless ON - SSID: alpha
VOIP Router 2:  192.168.2.2   bridged mode; DHCP off; Wireless ON - SSID: beta
VOIP Router 1: 192.168.2.3   bridged mode; DHCP off: Wireless off
Both VOIP Routers connected from Internet Port on Router to LAN port on a 10/100 switch
All of this was working fine for the past two months, it even survived some Southern California power outages and came back with flying colors; UNTIL YESTERDAY...... VOIP Router 1 blue light ceased in the morning - Troubleshot it myself and then with tmobile/Linksys and verdict was a defective modem. VOIP Router 2 was still going strong UNTIL I decided to power cycle it to see if that would help with VOIP Router 1; well the blue lights never came back on; To make a long story short - after pulling my hair out and talking to tmobile/Linksys again; I was able to get the blue lights to come on both VOIP Router 1 and VOIP Router 2 if I connected one of them directly to the cable modem and the other VOIP Router  2 directly to VOIP Router 1.  I also did a hard reset on both VOIP routers back to factory defaults (did this before as well). Now, I can't even have a switch between VOIP ROUTER 1 and 2 and get a blue light on the second one. What in the world could be causing this, does anyone have a clue?
Now you may ask why do I need it setup like I had it originally, Cable Modem is downstairs ; Main Router downstairs was in place to isolate the Network from the VOIP Routers in case I needed to reboot the VOIP routers - which I had to do a few times in those two months. So I still had Internet access in the house when I rebooted the VOIP routers. I also wanted my phones upstairs, not downstairs and that is where the VOIP routers were situated.
I've searched thru this forum and googled elsewhere, but haven't found any solutions that work.
So can anybody help ????? TIA

OK, Here's an UPDATE, I believe that I have found a firmware bug in the WRTU54G-TM v1.00.21 code.
In order to get the blue lights on two WRTU54G-TM Routers, VPN - IPSEC passthru must be enabled on the 1st Router, or else the blue lights will not come on the 2nd Router.
fyi... I have 3 sim cards in the 2 Routers for 3 phone lines, 1 Sim card slot is empty.
I reset both WRTU54G-TM Routers to factory default and plugged one directly in to the cable modem and the second WRTU54G-TM into the first. I rebooted the cable modem and routers in order and in a few minutes, I had 3 blue lights for voice on the routers (YES!). Ok, so now I tried reconfiguring the Routers the way I want them. I only need wireless on one of them, not both, so I turn off the wireless on the first router, I also disable all 3 VPN passthrough options on both routers and disable the firewall on the 2nd router. Now I lose the blue lights on the 2nd Router. Well after some troubleshooting, I have found that the IPSEC VPN passthru option MUST be enabled on the 1st Router to get the blue lights on the 2nd Router. I have reproduced this very easily by disabling the IPSEC on the first Router and the blue lights will go off on the 2nd Router - I have to re-enable the IPSEC on the 1st router and reboot the 2nd Router for the blue lights to come back on the 2nd Router.
Thanks, Tom
(Mod note: Edited post for guideline compliance. Thanks!)
Message Edited by JOHNDOE_06 on 09-16-2009 01:08 PM

ZMP: no pulsing blue light, no recognition, new batter

Hi,
I have a Zen MP, worked at one time. Battery issues, so I bought a new Creative Battery. Don't remember if it ever worked with new battery (it may have, briefly). When I plug in the USB (not a hub, and have tried all USB ports on lap top and PC, all 2.0) I get the creative logo, and a blue light, but it does not pulsate. Neither computer (running full WMP) seems to recognize the player. When I go into system/device manager, I do not see "portable devices" or MTP or anysuch thing to try the uninstall/install that some have recommended.
Contacted C. Labs and at first they say "here are your choices if you have a warranty left", etc, which I don't. After going to their website again and troubleshooting, it eventually led me to an email support, which I used again, not hoping for much help. The gentlemen this time offered that it sounded like a harddri've problem and there is no solution and I am out of luck. Is this true, that my 240 dollars was used for about 2 months and now I have a piece of junk?
Am I missing something vital or am I really up a creek?

The stats look normal as if your internet is ok
you can either try factory reset of your existing hub or connect one of the spare hubs and see if that helps
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MAC PRO (Early 2008) RAID CARD ISSUE - SYSTEM FREEZEHello (hopefully someone can shed some light on my issue) I own as above a MAC PRO (Early 2008) this has a RAID card installed along with two 15k.7 cheetah hdd (320gb) and a spare drive, (which i m

Hello (hopefully someone can shed some light on my issue)
I own as above a MAC PRO (Early 2008) this has a RAID card installed along with two 15k.7 cheetah hdd (320gb) and a spare drive, (which i made a regular drive)
a while ago i had to replace the RAID card battery, so i did this, over a year later the same thing happened again, but as previous just left it and the system seemed fine for ages, until last night i was working in PHOTOSHOP and everything just froze and the screen kind of appeared GREEN, could not do a single thing. So restarted the mac, this time grey screen for ages and a message appeared, (macs version of blue screen) (see attached).
I restarted the machine and this time a flashing question mark folder!
could not do a thing.
so i found my copy of snow leopard and got the computer to run this and at least launch the DISK UTILITY and (Interestingly in the drop down menu RAID UTILITY was also in the menu) but it did not matter which utility i used the (RAID or DISK) neither could see any of drives, just the dvd drive.
so looked around on you tube and various forums and discovered if i take out the RAID CARD and re-plug the main lead from the RAID card back in to the LOGIC BOARD I would be reverting the MAC to a normal regular non-RAID computer.
After performing this HARDWARE task and inserting all three HDD, and running the DISK utility from the drop down menu via the SNOW LEOPARD disc.
(interestingly since the RAID card had been removed the RAID UTILITY from the drop down menu no longer appeared). running disk utility I can now only see the regular (spare) hdd and DVD Drive, but the two RAID HDD , again, still do not show up DISK UTILITY?
O.K. so i could chuck out the RAID card (AND RAID HDD) and just go with a regular set-up, and run a back restore from Time Machine on a NEW hdd purchased.
but what is wrong with the RAID, is the card at fault or are both HDD used for the RAID knackered? can i perform any tests, to see whats what?
thanks for your help in advanced.

hello people, the issue was in fact the GRAPHICS card nothing to do with the HDD or RAID system ( although this did cause issues with the RAID system it basically lost its way) below is my replay to another similar problem some one else had!
working in photoshop and then everything stopped working and the lot froze! only option was to force shutdown (via button).
and try to restart, hoping all was fine, this was not the case :-(
I had the added issue of the RAID card system, that i have, this was confused to say the lease and would not behave or work, causing the start up to hang.
so i thought the HDD must be bust and the root cause. ( but soon learnt it was not the cause )
...bought a new HDD removed the RAID card and replugged the cable from RAID card into LOGIC board, ( making the computer act like any normal non-RAID system). I managed to install the OSX, using the snow leopard disk way. once the mac was running, i started to notice the screen would flicker and started to see 'artefacts'. so i started to reveal my symptoms to the web and forums and soon discovered that my graphics card could be the issue all along?.
(nvidia geforce 8800gt 2x dvi).
I read up on that a fix, could be either A. reply the thermal paste, as the card could be over heating or B. stick the card in the oven trick.
Tried option A. first and nothing still issues, so last night took the plunge carried out option B. and ta da it worked! i even managed to run
from my new HDD my lasted install OS X, absolutely fine. I then thought, maybe i could repair my RAID so replugged all the HARDWARD back in and
carried out a disk repair and disk permissions on drives( took a small amount of time), via the SNOW LEOPARD disc - (Disk utilities) and this worked and now have my system working as it was just over 6 days ago.
what was the cost to get this? bought a new hdd so 40.00gbp and thermal paste and cleaner kit ( your still need to do this ) search video card trick on you tube.
and renew thermal paste, approx 15.00gbp, technically i don't need the new HDD, but it was all part of the trial and error way i went. ( i do have extra storage as a result!)"

Blue light blinking hp vs196

Sir ,
Monitor blue light blinking in the Power Key (blue light blinking hp vs196 ) , I had tried different Cables and different outlet but still the same problem .
Best Regards

Hello IT-Specialist,
Welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience! To help you get the most out of the HP Forums I would like to direct your attention to the HP Forums Guide First Time Here? Learn How to Post and More.
I understand you are getting a flashing blue light on your monitor. The issue you are describing appears to be a physical issue and I think it would be best if you contacted HP technical support for repair options.
US support link to contact options for HP products purchased in the US.
Outside of US support link to contact options for HP products purchased outside the US.
I would like to thank you for posting on the HP Forums. Have a great day!
Please click the "Thumbs Up" on the bottom right of this post to say thank you if you appreciate the support I provide!
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I work on behalf of HP
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"Customers don’t expect you to be perfect. They do expect you to fix things when they go wrong." ~ Donald Porter

WRE54G after reset only 1 blue light, no activity light

I have spent a lot of frustrating hours trying to setup my newly bought expander WRE54G.
Issues:
1. I could not find my expander by typing 192.168.1.240
2. So, I tried one of the reset tips I found here, by holding the reset button for 30 seconds, unplug it while pressing down reset, wait 15 secs, while holding reset and turn on power again, and then wait further 10 seconds.
3. After having tried this, when I turn it on, there is only one blue light on the link button, no light on the activity, and I could not see my expander at all on the wifi network. (A normal reset would give me a red light on the link & a blue flashing light on the activity, and I was able to see my expander on the network)
Is there any way to undo what I did with the reset tip? I really want to restore it to factory defaults.
My WRE54G does not say whether it is V1 or V2, so I guess it is V1?
Anyone please help!!!

Did you ever get this issue resolved? I am having the same issue.
(Edited post for guideline compliance. Thanks!)
Message Edited by JOHNDOE_06 on 09-18-2007 10:43 AM

6300 Blue Lights

Hi all
Yes my issue is with the blue lights on the side of the phone.
I have gone through every individual setting/profile and put it to lights off.
I have ensured I have no unread/unopened/unlistened to messages/voice mails. To the extent that I deleted every message sent, received, delivered, both text and voice.
Yet those blue lights stay on and constant. They obviously show up more in the dark which is annoying.
Anyone know how I can switch the side lights off please?
Thanks

Hi, May i suggest the follows:
- Reboot the phone: switch it off, remove the back cover and take the battery, the sim card and MMC out for a while (5-10 mins). Try again later
- Back up your personal data (especially ur contacts), then proceed for factory settings : Menu > Settings > Restore factory settings > Security code (12345 by default)
- As last step, check the profile settings : Menu > Settings > Profile > General > Personalise > Light effects > Off
Hope the above helps

What does all 3 blue lights flashing mean on hhb3

I did a reset on my hhb3 typeA and my wps button came back, i tried it but kept my finger on the wps button to long and all the blue lights started flashing at same time as each other, what does this mean, usually the wifi light goes orange when wps is pressed for 5 seconds, i pressed a bit longer and got blue lights flashing.

hi WPS has been disabled as it was a security issue
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ATV, 5.1 and a Sony Receiver......no blue light!?!

First and foremost, what a fun couple of days. What a great forum too! So many knowledgeable folks willing to share their know-how.
So, my question is this, anyone else out there with their aTV hooked-up to a Sony receiver that's not getting the blue-light on the main display to indicate true 5.1?
Maybe I'm worrying needlessly here as perhaps the audio signal will only be a true 5.1 when HD content is rented. Last night I watched a few of the HD Trailers and was kinda expecting to get the blue-light during those trailers. But nope, it did seem to be pretty decent sound quality, but it almost seemed like it was a "fake" 5.1. Dunno though. Also, I did have a couple issues of "buffering" while I was watching the trailers. The trailer would load completely with the blue bar filling completely and then during the play of the trailer it would suddenly stop and the bar would have to fill again. But it did fill much more quickly (say five seconds or so).
Also, under Audio Settings, I DO have the Dolby Digital Out set to ON. (I'm using component and optical(Toslink) cables for the hook-up. My preference is always HDMI but that's not possible here as I only have two HDMI inputs on my Panny plasma and I'm using them for my HD Cable box and Sony PS3.
The new UI for aTV is not baaaad, but could've been so much better. I actually think that the UI from the prior version was much more visually pleasing with those large, sharp, flying eye-catching graphics. I don't know if Sony would throw a hissy-fit or not, but the aTV should adopt a UI menu like that of the PS3 where the icons are stretched horizontally on the display with the user then being able to scroll up or down within that icon to access that sub-menu. IMHO, that would be much cleaner and more visually pleasing.
And on a sidenote and for clarification, one does not need AirTunes to be able to control their aTV from iTunes on their PC. I was under the impression that I wouldn't have the option to do this as I don't have AirTunes or Airport Extreme. I was VERY happy to see the COMPUTER button on the bottom right part of my iTunes giving me that control. I now won't have to change the input on my HD display to access the UI(thusly disrupting whoever's watching a program pm the TV) to change tunes. (I might've misunderstood some of the recent posts on this though. Maybe what was actually being inferred was that an aTV only need to be AirTunes "capable" to do this.)
Geez Phil, ramble much? lol
Carry on.

Maggot wrote:
Hi Drum_Phil,
I'm not near my ATV right now, but I checked out Superbad on the iTunes page, and it doesn't mention anything about 5.1. (Many of the HD movies have 5.1; some don't.)
Does it say that it's in 5.1 on the ATV rental page? If not, even though it is in HD, it may just be in stereo.
Hi Maggot.
Thanks for checking that for me. According to iTunes +through my aTV+, Superbad is not only in HD, but also in DD (with the official DD logo).
Another forum poster (RichSolNuv) has confirmed that this movie did indeed support true 5.1 when he watched it with his Sony receiver. So it's probably just a matter of dialing in the settings on it and/or my aTV.
Thanks for the props on my handle. I love lexical ambiguity.
As they say, time flies like the wind, but fruit flies like bananas.

White Balancing pictures under heavy blue lighting

I am looking at LightRoom to process RAW images from my D3100. I'll be shooting my reef aquarium which is under heavy blue lighting (about 450nm). I can balance the pictures in Capture NX2, however in Lightroom the settings are maxed when using the dropper against an 18% grey card and the picture is not completely balanced.
any suggestions on how I can balance beyond the max of the sliders, or alternatives to balancing?
here is an old picture of the first day I got the lights and was learning the new camera - pre (JPG version from shooting RAW+JPG) and post balance on the RAW picture done in NX2:
*** note that the tank doesn't look this blue, I'm learning that our eyes see things differently than the camera.
Thanks!
pre-process
post process

Just a couple of thoughts:
1. Marine Aquarium lighting (particularly reef-friendly lighting systems) doesn't always broadcast a full spectrum of light. In the same way, gymnasium sodium vapor lights do not broadcast all the colors of the continuous spectrum. In less-than-full spectrum lighting it can be nearly impossible to white balance as you are missing key color components.
2. Water absorbs different colors of light at different rates. What is balanced at the top of an aquarium may be deficient at the bottom of an aquarium. It is possible to have a graduated differential in your white balance in a single shot if you cover a sufficient range of depth. As you go deeper in the tank, the ambient lights (fluorescents and/or tungsten) start to become significant to the overhead aquaria lights.
Neither of those solves your issue today but it should suggest that you might have to live with these limitations when photographing aquarium where you cannot provide your own light.

Blue to purple shift issue

I found that the LightRoom (including v2.3 RC) has a weird processing of the blue color on my camera – Canon EOS 450D. After the exposure increase the blue goes to purple:
I created a test image:
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/5580/testt.png
To see this issue take a shot of this image (my monitor is color calibrated EIZO) while little out-of-focus to prevent moire. You will get something like this:
http://rapidshare.com/files/203548885/IMG_1960.CR2
Cool. Open the RAW image in LightRoom and try to increase the Exposure to +2.00. You will get this:
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9797/img1960h.jpg
Do you see the purple part in the first line that should be blue? Try the same correction in any other RAW processor and you will see only pure blue without any purple. So what is wrong with LightRoom? Yes, you can correct the purple issue by calibrating the blue color in the LightRoom but I don’t want to mess up the blue to correct this issue.
The camera alone has no problem with increasing the exposure to +2 with the same shot:
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1267/img1959.jpg
There is no difference if you shoot to sRGB or AdobeRGB for this issue.
Some of my friends also told me they are not using LightRoom because they get purple sky when processing RAWs from Canons.
Why I do such silly tests? It’s simple. Download this RAW:
http://rapidshare.com/files/203548884/_MG_1890.CR2
Try to correct the exposure in LightRoom while retaining the blue backlight. It’s hard work! And again – other RAW processors have no problems with this file.

i4711 wrote:
Well, it is fact that Lightroom processes saturation of colors in a way that show very, very similar deficiencies "hue shifts" like the CIELAB color space.
It's a fact there are deficiencies in Lab. Where mixing white light with a monochromatic light does not produce a constant hue, and Lab assumes it does. The effect is seen as a yellow/blue issue. But it doesn't result in all cases if those building the product correct for this. Years ago, most (many) ICC output profiles produced a visisble blue shift towards magenta but today it's rare as the profile makers handle this in their color engines. I know of no such issue with LR nor have heard it reported until this post. That isn't to say such a shift can or does occur, but blaming it on CIELAB probably isn't the right place to be poking around.

3d rage headset not recharging with pulsing blue light

Hi folks - my Tactic 3d rage wireless was working fine and then it dropped off with an ugly buzzing sound. It now has a pulsing blue light. I've tried recharging it through the USB from my desktop and using a mains charger. I've tried using different USB cables. Pressing and holding the power button does nothing. I haven't updated the firmware.
Is it dead?

Originally Posted by OffshoreMetal
I upgraded the RX firmware and it failed , now my headset does not even turn on. It is detected as avnera av6302 when pluggen in the computer but when i try to install a firmware on the headset it cannot find it. The headset responds to nothing , Tried charging it in a wall socked didnt help either.
I opened my headset ( Right ear ) and unplugged the battery for a couple of seconds, Fixed the issue. It's not a easy task to do so without cracking the plastic.

Webmail is not working internet explore after installed sp3 exchange 2007 roll up 15

webmail is not working internet explore after installed sp3 exchange 2007 roll up 15 but mozill firefox webmail is working fine

Hi,
Does the issue happen to all users? What’s your IE version? Is there any error when you access OWA 2007 in IE?
Please click Compatibility View settings in your Internet Explorer. Then, add the OWA site to the list of sites to be viewed in compatibility view and check whether the issue persists.
Regards,
Winnie Liang
TechNet Community Support

Have a compaq cq61 319wm, blinking blue lights

i have a compaq cq61-319wm. when i press the power botton there is no boot or post. just blinking blue lights at the caps lock and the number lock. i have switched the ram around and even used other ram. any is appreciated.

I think you have to begin to think of this in terms of a hardware issue. If it reads CDs but not DVDs, then it is not a driver thing but a bad laser. There is a separate laser for CD and DVD functions and one can easily go bad, requiring replacement of the drive.

WRTU54G-TM Internet / Blue-light & XP SP3 Issues

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