X-Fi Xtrememusic w/ Heatsink Lower RMAA Resul

Hi,
I just purchased the X-Fi Xtrememusic and am loving the quality of the Analog out with my headphones. I'm curious though, because accorfing to this
http://audio.rightmark.org/downloads/Sound%20Blaster%20X-Fi%20Testing%20Methodology%20And%20Results%20For%2 0RMAA%20v5.5.pdf
, I should be getting a noise level/dynamice range of around 94/94 @ 6/44., and around -02/02 @ 24/96. However, I'm getting a slightly lower result of -92/92 and -99/99 respecti'vely. Are those people with heatsinks also getting the same results? If so, does this mean the newer revisions have slightly lower specs? Or am I the only one getting this, and is this grounds for replacement? Thanks in advance for your answers!

Also, I failed to mention most of the capacitors are really bent, but it doesn't seem to affect performance. Could this be a factor?

Similar Messages

Low volume with X-FI XtremeMu

I ordered the Vista CD from Creative, installed it, and the automatic updates were applied, well, automatically. Sadly, the volume of my X-FI XtremeMusic is very low compared to what I'd get on XP. I've reviewed the messages here, but I can't find the answer. Is there one?

Yup, same issue with the x-fi platinum, I have been using the youpax release to solve this issue. This would be an excellant find if it works for all the X-fi family, thats the only issue I have left to solve with this card.. let you know in a bit. Also, installed the latest patches for Vista tonight, didnt help the volume, but it MAY have helped with some of the odd choppiness, hard to tell .... Thanx for the info guys..The very next day ......
Yup, it works, and it works great, solved a lot of level/volume issues. Great find. And it works on many cl cards
Message Edited by scorpion_saga on 08-3-200708:43 AM

Post your specs here if you don't suffer crackling/popping/hangs/distort

Two systems:
Intel System
Motherboard: Gigabyte 8INXP
Chipset: Intel E7205 Granite Bay
Processor: Intel Pentium 4 Northwood 3.06 with HyperThreading
Bus speed: 6 Mhz (overclocked from 33)
Hard Disk: Western Digital 80 Gb (ATA00) and Seagate 200Gb (SATA)
RAM: Gb (2x52Mb OCZ in Dual Channel)
RAM Timings: 2-3-3-8
Video Card: Single Radeon X800XT on AGP 8x (500/000)
Sound Card: X-Fi Fatalty
OS: Windows XP SP2, latest updates
AMD System
Motherboard: AsRock AS939NF4G-SATAII BIOS .40
Chipset: GeForce 600 (almost equivalent to nForce4 with onboard video)
Processor: AMD Opteron 70 (2 Ghz) dual core
Bus speed: 200 Mhz (no overclock)
Hard Disk: Maxtor Diamondmax 0 300Gb (SATAII)
RAM: 2 Gb (2xGb G.Skill) in Dual Channel
RAM Timings: 2-3-2-6
Video Card: Single GeForce 6800GS on PciExpress x6 (500/200)
Sound Card: X-Fi Fatalty
OS: Windows XP SP2, latest updates
Games tested:
Battlefield 2, FEAR, Quake 4, Doom 3 & ROE, Half Life 2, Sin Episodes Emergence, Battle for Middle Earth & 2, UT2004, Prince of Persia trilogy... and lots lots lots more. Sound is always perfect, tested with 5., 2-speakers and headphnes. All games with latest patchesMessage Edited by Juanlo on 05-22-2006 07:8 PM

Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtrememusic (with heatsink attached) with patched driver from SB.com
DFI LanParty nForce 3 Ultra-D AGP (latest official BIOS)
DFI LanParty nForce 4 Ultra-D PCIe ^^ May 06 BIOS from DFI
AMD 3000+ Venice overclocked on both systems to 278x9 or 2500MHz
GSkill 2Gig 2GBHZ UCCC @ 3-3-3-7 500MHz (9/0 divider on NF4-UD)
nVidia GeForce 6800GT/7600GT & now 7900GT using latest WHQL
Just recently upgraded from my NF3-UD / 6800GT AGP system to my current PCIe system.
Only ever installed the basic package in game mode. No problems.
Only one problem. I get big black squares that flicker on the screen during intense gaming sections and loading screens. System has been completely formatted since the new upgrade but the squares remain. Changed PSU, tried different RAM, stock clocks. It's isolated to the X-Fi. This problem existed on the NF3-UD AGP system as well. I had a cheapo SB Li've card before this and didn't have the black squares. Sometimes when the squares appear the system has a little freeze causing the CD-skip noise. The worst offenders are V8 Supercars 3 (Race driver 3) & Oblivion.
It's definitely something to do with the X-Fi.
Music runs fine for me using Winamp 5.2 Full. Haven't had any crackling yet.
I may note that I always use the 3rd PCI slot for sound cards & this X-Fi is no exception.Message Edited by utetopia on 05-22-2006 06:39 PM

Nvidia Response to GTX Series Voltage Control

I thought it would be worth posting this in light of recent events.
Quote from: brightsideofnews.com, 3rd October 2012
We contacted Nvidia for comment and received a response from their Senior PR Manager, Bryan Del Rizzo with the following,
"Green Light was created to help ensure that all of the GTX boards in the market all have great acoustics, temperatures, and mechanicals. This helps to ensure our GTX customers get the highest quality product that runs quiet, cool, and fits in their PC. GTX is a measureable brand, and Green Light is a promise to ensure that the brand remains as strong as possible by making sure the products brought to market meet our highest quality requirements.
Reducing RMAs has never been a focus of Green Light.
We support overvoltaging up to a limit on our products, but have a maximum reliability spec that is intended to protect the life of the product. We don’t want to see customers disappointed when their card dies in a year or two because the voltage was raised too high.
Regarding overvoltaging above our max spec, we offer AICs two choices:
· Ensure the GPU stays within our operating specs and have a full warranty from NVIDIA.
· Allow the GPU to be manually operated outside specs in which case NVIDIA provides no warranty.
We prefer AICs ensure the GPU stays within spec and encourage this through warranty support, but it’s ultimately up to the AIC what they want to do. Their choice does not affect allocation. And this has no bearing on the end user warranty provided by the AIC. It is simply a warranty between NVIDIA and the AIC.
With Green Light, we don’t really go out of the way to look for ways that AICs enable manual OV. As I stated, this isn’t the core purpose of the program. Yes, you’ve seen some cases of boards getting out into the market with OV features only to have them disabled later. This is due to the fact that AICs decided later that they would prefer to have a warranty. This is simply a choice the AICs each need to make for themselves. How, or when they make this decision, is entirely up to them.
With regards to your MSI comment below, we gave MSI the same choice I referenced above -- change their SW to disable OV above our reliability limit or not obtain a warranty. They simply chose to change their software in lieu of the warranty. Their choice. It is not ours to make, and we don’t influence them one way or the other.
In short, Green Light is an especially important program for a major, new product introduction like Kepler, where our AICs don’t have a lot of experience building and working with our new technologies, but also extends the flexibility to AICs who provide a design that can operate outside of the reliability limits of the board. And, if you look at the products in the market today, there is obviously evidence of differentiation. You only need to look at the large assortment of high quality Kepler boards available today, including standard and overclocked editions."
Quote
What does this mean for consumers?
This essentially breaks down to giving consumers fewer options between their cards and limits the innovation that AIBs are capable of implementing in their products. If Nvidia is limiting the AIBs within a set of parameters on their non-reference cards, then they are hurting those board vendors' most profitable products. This gives consumers less choice, while enabling Nvidia to theoretically have lower RMAs. Such a program does, however, make sense if you think about the perception of Nvidia if all of their board partners are running amok. They obviously have to have a certain level of control over what their AIBs do with their GPUs if they are going to warranty them. But, we believe that Nvidia has gone too far in their restrictions on board partners and amount of control they exercise in the process.
So, the Green Light program is a program that we believe hurts AIBs and consumers while enabling Nvidia to reduce their RMA rate and improve their margins. If you are an Nvidia investor, this is great news, but if you are a consumer, this is clearly bad news. Nvidia claims that this has to do with the quality of the product and smoothness of launches, however, we believe that in the end it's all about money.
Source

More to it than meets the eye, it seems...
Quote from: bit-tech, 5th October 2012
Nvidia accused of crippling board partners' designs
A source inside one of Nvidia's largest graphics manufacturing partners, who spoke to us on the condition that they remain anonymous, explains: 'The fact is Nvidia is stopping ALL partners from allowing any form of hardware/software overvolting, or providing hardware mods beyond its very limited restrictions. They threaten to cut allocation [of GK100 parts] if hardware mods aren’t removed or avoided entirely.'
While homebrew soldering-iron-and-prayer overvolting is still permitted, manufacturing partners aren't allowed to make it easy for buyers. 'We're not allowed to openly advertise the PCB markings [for overvoltage adjustment] on the GTX 680,' our source continues.
Quote:
Claims that manufacturers aren't being restricted in their designs beyond the confines of the Green Light programme are soundly denied by our source, however. We've been told that the secretive restrictions on board partners go yet further: 'They [Nvidia] also threaten allocation if you make a card faster than the [stock] GTX 690.'
These restrictions are not limited to just a couple of companies, either: they appear to stretch right across the board, and are responsible for product cancellations and - as with EVGA's removal of the EVBot header from the GTX 680 Classified - hardware modifications from multiple manufacturers. They're also leaving a bad taste in board partners' mouths: where in previous generations each company has been able to push its own cards to the limit in order to beat the competition, under Nvidia's alleged new rules all GTX 680 boards will be more or less identical in performance and features.
The hardware restrictions are a loss for the consumer, too: EVGA has already stated that it won't be reducing the price of the GeForce GTX 680 Classified, despite removing the EVBot header and corresponding facility for custom voltages outside Nvidia's recommended limits - meaning buyers now get less card for their cash than before the company capitulated to Nvidia's alleged demands.
We've approached other board partners, but thus far none have been willing to comment on the record regarding our source's claims of hardware restrictions - and with our source alleging that Nvidia may even cut chip allocations for companies that talk publicly about the matter, that's no surprise.
Full story here >> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2012/10/05/nvidia-crippling-partners/1

My adobe dreamwaver did not support on my laptop for low resulation problem.

the adobe dreamwaver requerd 1280*800 pixel. but my laptop resulation is 1368*726 pixel. so after installesion process completed the adobe dreamwaver did not running. what can i do now?
my adobe dreamwaver version is cs6.

Hi Fahim,
Please confirm if 1368*726 is the highest resolution of your laptop?
And can you please let us know your laptop manufacturer and model?
Regards,
Akshay

Absolutely no freakin response from MSI for RMA!!!????

I bought my K7D Master mainboard Sept. 5 of last year. I've sent two emails to MSI in the last 3 months as well as one phone attempt (always leave message - no freakin humans), and Jan. 30 I faxed them a 3 page form detailing my problems with this DEFECTIVE mainboard requesting an RMA and still NO ONE HAS CONTACTED ME!!!
What kind of ****** service is this ******??
I'm pissed.
I'm going to try again to phone them this morning and fax the form again, if I don't get a response this time I'm going to tell the world how ***** MSI service is over 10 forums, 3 websites I manage and email everyone I know.
I was planning on purchasing another mainboard and at least 2 video cards from MSI. Why should I??
Time to ****** anti-up MSI. Last chance. :O
Somewhere I read that MSI doesn't RMA product directly, you have to go through the reseller. If that's the case they can tell me so instead of ignoring all correspondence.
Attemped fixes since DAY 1 include but are not limited to:
1. bios upgrades to latest
2. various sticks of ram
3. higher wattage brand-name PSU
4. higher & lower core voltage
5. different cpu coolers
6. different IDE cables
7. re-seating all expansion cards, memory, connectors, etc
8. removing all cards except agp
9. OS re-installation
10. swap cpu's around
11. not temperature issue - temps are low in Antec 1030 case with 3 case fans
It works fine with one cpu, dual does not work stable. I have tried everything including things not listed.
Edited for foul language by GF

My apologies for bad language.
No, pretty much no help on these forums. One of the moderators suggested I check out http://www.amdforums.com or similar site. No luck there either. Anyhow, it was working on one cpu so I was living with it. ;(
I sent off two emails to MSI tech support a couple months apart. No response on either. Then I didn't see their RMA form but found a "Customer Problem Description Form" which is 3 or 4 pages where you fill in exactly what the problem is, your complete hardware setup, OS, etc, etc. Filled all that out then faxed it in to a different number than the RMA fax number. No response. Oh, I also phoned the tech support telephone line and was put to a "leave a message" prompt and hung up because I wanted to speak to a human.
Anyhow, I just sent off the board by XpressPost on Friday last week. I think it takes 3 days to get to Cali.
Richard H. on http://www.2cpu.com had to return his K7D too and it took 6-7wks the first time. That board was defective too and after returning that he got a replacement that worked 2-3wks later.
I'm lucky my old BP6 dual celeron machine works fine and I hadn't ported critical operations such as email to the K7D system yet.
I'm hoping they send me a board in 3-4wks (that isn't broken :( )
How come Bios V1.6 was withdrawn? I wonder if we'll ever get manual multipliers above 12.5?
I'm going to order a Zalman Northbridge chipset cooler without fan as they're supposed to work 2-3 degrees cooler than the OE heatsink but you have to use the OE pins to hold it on and use Arctic Silver 3 paste, which won't remove your warrantee. Pretty cheap too: http://www.ncix.com/canada/productdetail.php?sku=9081

K7N2Delta ILSR--No8XAGP----RMA???

Ok I read throught the FX5900 Ultra thread with over 390 replies, and found a solution for my lockups. I go into the bios and turn AGP8x to disable and my aperature to 64.
So this means I need to RMA the board right? Cause no more lockups with it off and board is supposed to be able to run at 8x?
Should I get another MSI Delta ILSR from my online retailer or an entirely different mother board that doesn't have a sh!tty history like this one?
Any suggestions?
Let me list everything that is drawing power from my 420 watt Enlight Dual Fan power supply
AMD XP 2800 Barton 2.08ghz not overclocked
K7N2DeltILSR (7.4 bios installed)
Kingston HyperX PC2700 (set to 2-2-2-5 and 2.6v in bios)
Leadtek A350 5900 Ultra My Vivo on 44.03's
Seagate 20gig 2mbcache 7200rpm
Pioneer 16x slot DVD
TDK 12x10x32 VeloCD
Floppy
120mm case fan
2x 80mm rail fans in server
1 60mm 7000rpm CPU fan on heatsink
all under good ol WinME
-------------------------------

Oh one other thing
My 5900ultra needed coolbits to bring out the 3d setting
and those badboys chew up volts like no tommorrow
On my card on the other side of the additional power plug are four lugs. I kept getting a will lower clock settins message due to not enuf volts so I took a volt meter and discovered that the message was right. Turns out I had all my fans on one rail and the card, I didn't realize that the processor fan drew down so many amps so I redistributed the power and checked and now all is well. the other thing is do you have the extra power connected to the board?

Where can I get an original x58 Pro-E IOH chipset heatsink assy?

Recently built an i7 gaming rig and like everyone else had high nb temps which I'm not very keen on.
I had a Thermalright HR-05 from another build (took it out of my old system and replaced it with the original HS and sold that PC leaving me with it) that I'll use on the nb, but covering the sb will be difficult since I'm running 2 4870 cards in the pci-e slots, covering the sb and not being able to move the cards to free space above it. I don't really want to get something too fancy for the sb (the sli version of the nb cooler) as it doesn't seem to get hot.
I was thinking along the lines of using the HR-05 for the nb, cutting up the heat-pipe of the original chip-set HS and just using it on the sb as temps and clearance will be fine. Problem of course is if ever need to rma the board, I'm screwed. I've read all the posts about issues with the hot IOH temps and solutions, and this is the way I'll think I'll go.
Currently my temps are up around 90 on load, and that's in winter! It's around 10 C in my room right now and when summer comes around with 30 C that's gonna shoot up!
Long story short, does anybody know where I can get an original X58 Pro-E IOH heatsink assy that I can keep safe in case I need it (touch wood)

I have thought about that, saw it under some suggestions to fix high temps. But they have that shoved toward the NB. My HR-05 will take care of the NB (plus some serious OC in sumemr which i want to do) I just need a HS for the southbridge , and it seems that the only HS that has enough clearance and fits into the MB with long cards in xfire or sli is the original SB HS, which leaves me wanting to cut the orginal HS up to reuse on the SB and finding another complete HS just in case.

Looking for a better heatsink help....K8N NEO2

Im looking for a better heatsink....any suggestions? I may oc it but for now I wont....it idles at 40-41 and stays at 60 when im gaming 58 if i turn off cool n quiet.....and thats with some ocz ultra5 Thermal compund....ThX

Yes, agree with SAB, zalman 7000 is a good one, however I´ve got 2 very simular K8N Neo2-systems but with 2 different cpu coolers.
One with zalman 7000alcu and one with Thermalright XP-90 and a zalman 92mm fan ( you can use what ever 80/92mm fan you like high speed, low speed, led colored, etc).
Both are equal regarding cooling to my experience, but I prefered the XP-90 because I did not have to remove the backplate ( I think zalman recommends mounting it´s own backplate to get the right distance/pressure between the cooler and cpu ).
With the XP-90 you just switch the retension mechanism which is easy ( even with the MoBo in the case ).

Who can run in ultra turbo with low cas ramm. read pls..ill explain

This doent pertain to overclocker casue if you go over 219 fsb on 800 fsb pcu it disables mat..
Who here with an 865, 875 mobo can run 2 or 2.5 cas timings in ultra turbo with less then 215 FSB.
If so which brand ramm and what bios and board do you have .
I am about to order ramm thats iss 3-3-3-8 but i would rather get the corsair xmas which is 2-3-3-6 if id be able to run it in ultra turbo..
what do you think and all responses definately appreciated.....

Quote
Originally posted by billy
and i might be wrong is that is you disabled speed from ayto it disables mat but im unsure..
All i know is that before i flashed my bios on my old pcb, all was wel in ultra turbo ..
After the flash couldnt do it anymore regardless of old flash and msi on the phone for 2 hours....
I think the 875 p has some hidden number which it calculates as being dafe or not, if your memory regardless of what timings you set it at reads lower then it thinks safe you will crash at boot.
Thats why i am making all this hype about memory . I cant afford to rMa belive you me i want that corsair twinx1024-3200cpt thats listed in the ramm module spec. Only thing is how to tell if its version 1.1 like they ask . I dont think version 1.1 is abtainable. this is referring to the ramm list for the neo 875 fisr pcb 2.0 . Also it lists ocz but which one do i get..
From what you are telling me, is anyone will work and to get2-2-2-5 if i can , but i think there might be a catch to this when the boards reads it. Im unsure. If so how to fake out the bios and let your manuel timings stick.
On my last boord after the flash , even when i flashed back i after loading default and running onece i restarted and set them to 3-4-4-8 and if i even went from slow to fast i could not boot. This only hapened in dual mode. In single i could hit ultra turbo....
remarks lol... If you know a way around this... also if you can tell me about that corsir ramm listed in the fisr's list. i can buy it but how do i know its v1.1 lol...
no, MAT can be still enabled with SPD disabled. for example i have the performance mode enabled, but i set my RAM timings manually. but i said that before, you must have missed it...
i didnt understand what you were trying to say here, your english is pretty weird. 2-2-2-5 timings can be done only with the new Corsair XL memory, and only under 215MHz. this kinda "is" the ultra turbo mode i guess, because you cant tighten the timings anymore.
and as that other guy said, 2-3-2-6 rated memory is always a safe bet as far as compatibility is concerned, from Kingston, Corsair or whoever. the new BIOS version dont have any problems with that from my experience.
as i said, i dont understand your other questions, but i hope your memory issue is solved.
Quote
I'm not going to bother reading what everyone else posted, I have that 2-3-2-6 rated memory from corsair, and I run ultra-turbo. N/P
with SPD enabled or disabled? im just asking because i cant set MAT to ultra turbo with SPD setting the memory timings. Turbo is the best i can do here.

Seemingly low volume for X-Fi Xtrememu

Today, the second time I booted up my computer I began to receive an interesting problem. My audio worked to some extent, but the volume was exceedingly low. I had to put my ear right next to the speakers to hear anything. I pulled out my headphones and plugged them in -- Same result, low volume. When I disabled the X-Fi and enabled my onboard audio, the volume was crystal clear and worked perfectly fine. I didn't change any software, drivers, hardware, or anything of that sort within the two reboots either.
I checked the obvious and made sure my volume was high in the X-Fi configuration panel, the windows panel, and my media players. Everything was maxed out. When I turned up my volume to the maximum on my speakers I could hear things better, but it was horribly distorted and sounded as if they were being over dri'ven. Normally I never have to increase the volume on the speakers much to hear anything, their usually on about 20-30% and I hear them perfectly fine.
I posted about this before on another site and It was recommended I try installing the latest drivers. So I decided to do an uninstall of the X-Fi drivers for good measure and, after rebooting, I installed the drivers and rebooted once more as it prompted me. The same exact result as before: sound that seems to have very low volume. After this, they recommended I try a different PCI slot as it may be damaged. I tried the other PCI slot and I had the same exact results as before. I did not want to install the card into the slot right next to my video card because it looked like the fan would be right up against the PCB of the X-Fi and that it might impede air flow and cause both cards to overheat.
Does anyone know what might be the problem? I'm using the latest drivers I saw (September 9th I believe) and the X-Fi has worked great for the past week and a half. I really don't want to have to own a $00 paperweight and revert to onboard audio.
Edit: If it helps any, I'm running on the following:
Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe
AMD Opteron 70
X-Fi Xtrememusic
GeForce 7900 GT
If you need any other info, i'll post it.Message Edited by Sagekilla on 0-22-2006 2:9 PM

Bump.. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? I've made a list of all the fixes I've attempted
- Checked the volume in Creative's console, the Windows volume control in my tray bar, and in the Control Panel under "Audio and Sound devices"
- Made sure default device was the X-Fi
- Made sure the speakers was plugged in the right spot
- Made sure the speakers weren't faulty (I tested with a pair of head phones and on my iPod)
- Made sure I had the latest drivers
- Did the diagnostic, didn't help
- Did a system restore that made things worse
- Switched the PCI slot the sound card was in
- Tried onboard audio and found the audio there worked fine (I don't want onboard audio and a $00 paper weight though)
- Made sure onboard audio was uninstalled and disabled
- Posted on the creative labs forums and got no replies
- Safe Mode doesn't even recognize the Sound card
I'm pretty sure this isn't something stupid like "Is the volume turned up?"

Low Battery Warning and Screen Shut Off

A couple of months ago I stopped receiving the Low Battery/Reserve Power/Connect to AC warning. The computer would just shut down then. This is probably explained by my battery being on a 350 cycle count.
However, a new problem has arisen which I am not sure if it would be connected to the same issue. When running basic software (firefox, excel, etc) the computer works fine, but as soon as I attempt to run something more complex (Google Earth, iPhoto, sometimes iTunes) the screen goes black and becomes unresponsive. This happens whether I'm connected to AC Power or not. When I close the computer, the LED light at the front comes on steadily (not pulsating). I don't think the computer shuts down as the battery seems to continue to run down. The only thing I have been able to do is shut the computer down by holding the power button down.
I have tried taking out the battery and holding the power button for 10 seconds/tone as well as holding the power button (with the battery in) for 5 seconds/tone.
While I am fairly sure I'll need to get a new battery, I'm not sure if that will solve the second problem as well. Any thoughts?
Thanks.

I'm going out on a limb here....
First, have you run Disk Utility to fix permissions, etc?
Secondly, do you only have issues when you run CPU intensive applications? If so, there are two things I can think of off hand. 1 is that maybe your CPU heatsink is coming loose. The other is, I seem to recall reading somewhere that if the CPU is pulling pretty close to 100%, it may pull extra power from the battery... maybe your battery being so low can not supply the needed power? Again.. this is just out in a limb, I don't know this to be fact.

X-Fi XtremeMusic BSOD on B

This just started happening a month ago and I can't figure it out. My X-Fi causes Vista to BSOD on boot when installed. When I take the X-Fi out, it works fine. I'm also getting a ton of "Unknown PCI Device" in the device summary screen on boot. Never saw these until about a month ago when the problem started. Took a picture of the BSOD.
[img"]http://www.map-depot.com/xfi_bsod.jpg">
I have found the thread that talks about ACPI and something about an issue with the 2MB X-Fi cards and the nForce4 chipset (which is what I have). I saw a post from a Creative support staff member saying that I could RMA the card, but the post is from 2005. I've had the card for a while, but as I said, the problem just started about a month ago, and I have no idea why. It was running fine since I've bought it. But the description of the problem occurring in that thread is identical to what I'm having happen now. A fix suggested in the thread is to update your BIOS... but I have no BIOS update available for my board.
MSI K8N Master2-FAR
2 x AMD Opteron 256 (.8Ghz Dual-Core)
4GB Kingston PC3200 ECC
2 x BFG GeForce 7800GTX OC (SLI Mode)
Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic (Uninstalled)
Creative Audigy2 ZS (Installed)
3 x Various sATA2 HDD's (950GB Total)
Pioneer DVD+-RW sATA
Windows Vista Ultimate 32-bit
Does anyone have any suggestions or know whether the offer to replace the x-fi cards that cause this still stands?
Thanks!

Have you tried putting the card in a different PCI slot?

Replace fan w/ better heatsink? G4Ti4200 VTD64

I have a G4-Ti4200-VTD64 display board. I'm in the process of silencing my PC -- just installed quiet Papst case fans (1 in, 2 out, using rubber mounts), Nexus NX-3500 quiet power supply, and Nexus AXP-3200 quiet AMD heat-sink and fan. Forgot to order the Zalman northbridge/chipset heatsink to replace that fan, which is definitely noisy, but I will. Once that fan is replaced, the only "stock" fan left in my PC will be the one on the MSI Ti4200-VTD64 card.
Is it possible to replace the video card fan with a heat sink? (Something less elaborate and costly than the Zalman or Thermaltake heat-pumps, which look like considerable overkill for this card.) I'm not overclocking.
Thanks.
Randy.

if u want silent this is pretty new and cool. runs at 19db on low and 23db on high for around 20 bucks and u can get it here: http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/process.html
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/en/products/vga_silencer/

New heatsink on the way!!

120mm fan for low noise and projected C/W of 0.16 (top ranked). Really big and only weights 370 grams. And, you don't have to remove the mother board to install it. A dream air heatsink. I'm gettin' one when it's available!
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1036/index03.asp

A real powerfull beaty hope it fits

X-Fi Xtrememusic w/ Heatsink Lower RMAA Resul

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