X58 chipset?

I purchased the Intel core i7 Macbook Pro not long ago, and it unfortunately doesn't have USB 3.0. Lacie released an express card that supports macs though.
( http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=11494 )
The main reason that I am interested in USB 3.0 is that I would like to know if I am able to use this device:
"Blackmagic Design Intensity Shuttle for USB 3.0 Computers, Capture and Playback Professional Quality HDMI and Component Analog Video in Both SD and HD (Requires x58 based computer or better)"
http://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Intensity-Computers-Professional/dp/B003 WSQTWU/ref=sr13?ie=UTF8&qid=1289768608&sr=8-3
Thus: my question. Does the 17 inch Intel Core i7 Macbook Pro have this x58 chipset? If so, then would the Lacie express card allow me to use the recording device? Looking forward to responses. Thanks.

You'll need to address your question to the tech support people at Blackmagic Design. My impression from [this page|http://www.blackmagic-design.com/products/intensity> on their site is that the Intensity Shuttle is Windoze-only and the Intensity Pro is Mac-compatible. But the Blackmagic folks should be able to explain the whys and wherefores to your satisfaction.

Similar Messages

X58 chipset problems, QPI problems, GreenPower II caused crashes: info here!

Hi,
I've just solved some of the mysteries I've experienced with my Eclipse SLI which does use X58 Chipset and which appear to be also problems other boards with X58 chipset show. Here's my findings:
1) If XMP profile is enabled, the QPI speed is locked at 4800. Higher values may be selected but do not become effective. After reboot, the BIOS shows 4800 as QPI setting. Disable XMP profile as workaround. Manual setting of non SPD speed settings like 1600 still works!
2) When resuming from S3 sleep the BIOS ignores the RAM timings and uses different RAM timings, including massive undertiming of RAM. This may prevent systems from waking up, cause instability or (in case of slower timings) slow down the machine. Workarounds: Either select a RAM frequency where the changed settings after S3 won't do any harm or configure the system not to sleep but hibernate instead. From hibernate, the system resumes with proper RAM timings!
3) When setting RAM frequencies that require more than 1.5v it may crash the computer to launch GreenPower II as GreenPower II does reduce RAM voltage to 1.5 even if it's in 1600 mode where the RAM info reads 1.65 volt (mine runs stable at 1.55 and almost stable at 1.5 but most RAM will fail instantly when values below 1.65 are selected at 1600 speed). GPII simply ignores manually set RAM voltage and undervolts. Hurry to advance mode after launching GPII and select (or re-select) proper voltage. GPII may show proper voltage for a short period of time and then reduce it to 1.5 (especially after S3/hibernate / change to default and back to optimize). Re-selecting the proper voltage (even if it's shown correctly for a short period of time) prevents GPII from reducing voltage and thus crashing the system.
Tech support is notified, but it seems that it requires many more reports of other users for something to happen, thus, if you have an X58 chipset board and experience some of those problems above, REPORT IT TO TECH SUPPORT!
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Quote from: NovJoe on 08-March-10, 00:02:21
So mainly you need the GPII for the fan speed regulation, right? But without it, the system works fine or will still have problems?
Well, problems remaining without GPII:
1) XMP profile disables QPI settings above 4800 (harmless once I found it out, as I can set speeds without enabling XMP profile). This seems to be a BIOS problem.
2) When resuming from S3 the RAM timings are incorrect (I'm using hibernate now, but would love to be able to use sleep from time to time without faulty RAM timings as a result). This seems to be a X58 problem.
Thus yes, GPII mainly is for fan speed regulation and other problems can be worked around. I basically wrote those observations here in case other people might run into those problems, as I've seen reports from other users with X58 boards here who cannot even wake from S3 and my guess is that their RAM is underclocked after resume from S3. Others might also have crashes when running @1.65v and enabling GPII, so I also did write that. My RAM typically will allow to fix voltage even when GPII goes down to 1.5 - those Corsair sticks really are impressive.
To make it complete: since the last BIOS update I've had some instability with Crysis and overheat-freezes by GPU heat when running Kombustor. I never tried Kombustor before, only tried it after those new crysis problems. It looks like the new instability can be resolved easily (some BIOS value adjustment for the Crysis thing) and the GPU heat problem with Kombustor is already written in VGA section, but it appears it's only happening with Kombustor and caused by VGA fan speed not going high enough combined with the GPU causing system freeze at 96-97C although GTX295 should work until 105C...but if normal operation won't ever cause such heat, it shouldn't be a problem.
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Oracle VM on Intel X58+ICH10R chipset

Hi All,
I bought a new computer which is using Intel X58 chipset (MSI X58 Pro-E), but I can't install Oracle VM on this computer. When I run the setup, it prompt "No driver found" for the devices. Does it mean additional driver required for the installation? If yes, where could I get the driver? Thanks
Best Regards,
Ray

Hi herb,
I can install Oracle VM on my new computer with setting to ACHI/RAID mode in BIOS, thank you for your help.
However, the system stop booting and show "GRUB", have I performed wrong installation?
Best Regards,
Ray

X58 Pro a Lemon? IOH cooling insufficient.

Is the X58 Pro motherboard a Lemon? The x58 cooling solution on the board is inadequate by far. Very soon, MSI will introduce a replacement board called the X58 Pro-E which has a different heat sync on the Dr. MOS and X58 chipset. They will no doubt ignore all of us with the Lemon. Which is totally unacceptable and enough to make me not want buy any MSI products ever in the future!
The only solution to cooling your IOH on the X58 Pro is to replace the useless MSI heat sync or run a small fast fan on to them.
Here are the possibilities;
1) with stock cooler IOH is 72C at idle
2) Running a 40mm 4000RPM fan ($12.00) directly onto the chips set from above the chipset, the IOH drops to 55C.
3) Replacing the sock solution with 2 Thermalright HR-05-IFX (23.00 each) the IOH drops to 38C*
*note: In my Antec Sonata case the HR-05-IFX are directly in the path of the 120mm fan exhaust that is mounted to the hard drive cage. This fan, draws air through the bottom of the case, over the hard drives and out over the motherboard. This is a Noctuna 120M fan that is running at 900 RMP (Ultra Quiet Mode). This fan blows directly onto the HR-05-IFX and helps dissipate the heat build up on the fins of the HR-05-IFX. With this fan turned off, the IOH temp starts out at 39C but quickly climbs into the 45C range with heavy use.
Using the 3rd solution, I can go up to a 190 MHz base CPU clock rate which makes the 2.6GHz i970 a 3.8Ghz CPU. The max I can go with memory is 1500MHz using OCZ Gold 6GB (3 x 2GB) rated at 1600 (OCZ3G1600LV6GK). Anything above that the board is not stable. At a base clock of 210 MHz, the board hangs-up in boot. It goes through the BIOS POS T and the screen says "WAIT..." and nothing happens.
I'm using BIOS 7.3. see https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126768.0
by the way, be careful when you remove the stock IOH cooler. Mine was pretty much stuck to the board. I had to yank it off with a set of pliers. Upon taking it off, part of the problem was clearly apparent. There was enough silicon grease (or should I say hardened cement) to drown an elephant. The grease must be the cheapest kind you can find because it had caked up into a thick layer of plastic and I had to scrape off heavy scabs. I wish I had taken a picture.
Once you do this upgrade, all of us should send the $50 bill to MSI. They should give all of us MSI X58 Pro uses a $50 rebate for selling us a Lemon.

So far, not any X58 Pro boards have burned up an X58 (IOH) that I've read about. 72c is well below the 100c limit, so those that choose not to redo the heatsinks need not panic as long as sustained full loads are below 100c.
Out of the 3 X58 Pros I've helped build, no 'Lemons' noted among them. Just started build #4. I would say your 3.8 on the CPU & 1500 on the mem. is pretty decent. The CPU only natively supports 800/1066 memory, so what's the complaint? 1333 & 1600 are 'OC' speeds. Your mem. sticks may be rated 1600, but doubt they are chipped more than 1333.
What was your specific system issue that required a bios update?
Is the X58 Pro-E a 'replacement' board as you call it, or a new introduction board to the line-up? Have you been ignored so far over your 'self proclaimed' lemon?

X58 Heatsinks Garbage Here is my Mod.

I know this topic has been introduced many times in this forum, but I wanted to share some info I collected before and after my modification. I had read the notorious thread about removing the original heatsink and re-applying some better thermal paste, but that didn't work as good as what I did. I purchased a ThermalTake Chipset Cooler CL-C0034. I also purchased a Enzotech Forged Copper Low Profile Heatsink for the SouthBridge. First I obviously removed the crappy MSI Heatsink and installed the ThermalTake on the chipset and cut the pipes at the original SouthBridge Heatsink and re-installed it. The ThermalTake did wonders for the X58 Chipset dropping my temps into the low 40's at idle and with prime never got close to 50. Once I played a few games though the SouthBridge which before any modding with original heatsink intact was at about 37 Celsius (measured with a Fluke temperature meter). After modification the Southbridge was now idle at about 44 Celsius, not to bad. Only lost about 7 degrees on the Southbridge. Once I loaded a game though (FUEL) and played for a while the Southbridge went up to the mid 50's, which is probably not horrible, but I like COOL. So I picked up the Enzotech Heatsink, which by the way, depending on where you find it it is labeled as a Northridge heatsink on one website and a Southbridge heatsink at another. Well it fits the Southbridge and also worked wonders. My idle temps are now back down in the mid to upper 30's on the Southbridge and at gaming time never even thinks about 50. MSI really needs to go back to there P35/P45 heatpipe design on these boards. That was excellent achievement for MSI and I do not know why they did not incorporate it into the new x58 lineup. Maybe someday we will see a version 2 board with this modification so that we as consumers don't have to do it ourselves.

well then it looks like we would want 2 of these instead of 1 and 1 CNB-S1(L): http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-extreme-spirit2-chipset-cooler.html
looking at Intel's drawings, the ICH10 case is 26mm x 26mm (substrate is 31mm x 31mm), and the Extreme Spirit II is 48mm x 40mm (though it is round, I don't get the 2 different measurements - it could be where the heatpipes stick out) - so it will cover the ICH10 and leave at least 1mm (if not 9mm) for the radius of the bolt. The ESII has very flexible mounting solutions, so it should fit well.
Also, the X58 IOH die is only 10.6mm x 13.8mm (substrate is 37.5mm x 37.5mm) which is less than the smallest dimension of the ESII, so with the nice mounting system of the ESII it should work for the both the IOH or the ICH as OVERKILL.
The extra weight of the ESII will help reduce the thermal resistance of the TIM, too. You could probably remove the fan from the ESII on the ICH, I bet.

Socket 1366 chipsets - what's coming down the road?

Hi everyone.
I'm probably going to build a new rig in about 6 months to a year, and I intend to use the Socket 1366 architecture. However, one thing I have noticed at the moment is the lack of reasonably priced boards for that architecture. In short, the only boards available for that are ones with the Intel X58 chipset and they're mostly in the €250+ price range.
I ask because up to now it has been my preference to use an upper-midrange board with a high end processor - when I rebuilt my current machine about 2 years ago, I paired a K8N Neo4F Ultra with an Opteron 180 processor which cost a multiple of that (S939 Athlon 64 X2s were all gone).
Had I upgraded during the Core2Duo/Socket 775 era I would most likely have done the same thing.
The reason for that is that not only do I not see the value of high end (and high cost) boards where a midrange board is compatible with the same processor, as my Neo4F and presumably modern comparable boards at the midrange price point all have everything I need. In addition my Neo4F also has lots more of the things that I want, namely PCI expansion slots for adding cards, and less of the things I don't, like multiple PCIx16 slots for Quad-SLi and stuff like that, as I don't use multiple GPUs. Indeed, the new archictecture with it's hard TDP limits and integrated memory controller are going to limit the capability to overclock the CPU, so that's another 'use' for such a board gone.
However, from what I've read, Intel is going to segment it's desktop market with So1366 being at the high-desktop end, something like Socket 1160 at the midrange and something else again for high end servers. Can it therefore be taken that there will be no midrange boards for LGA1366?

Basically your waiting for socket 1156/1160 this is the mainstream Nehalem product that will be based on the P55 chipset. As for when you are looking probably end of Q3 this year or more likley Q4.

X58 Pro (Pro-E) resuming from S3 sleep fails at high BCLK

Hi, I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem as me. When I have the system bclk set above ~170 MHz, S3 no longer resumes from sleep mode and simply stays at a black screen. The power and fans spin up, but the system simply hangs there. This overclock is 100% stable, as I can run prime95 and memtest for hours without errors. I'd just really like to use the S3 sleep feature if at all possible.
I tried contacting MSI tech support, but their engineers were not able to reproduce the problem.

Quote from: AntLee29 on 25-March-10, 07:25:26
Hi, I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem as me. When I have the system bclk set above ~170 MHz, S3 no longer resumes from sleep mode and simply stays at a black screen. The power and fans spin up, but the system simply hangs there. This overclock is 100% stable, as I can run prime95 and memtest for hours without errors. I'd just really like to use the S3 sleep feature if at all possible.
I tried contacting MSI tech support, but their engineers were not able to reproduce the problem.
I'm using an Eclipse SLI which is also using the X58 chipset. With every BIOS so far, I've got the same problem: When I resume from S3 sleep, the RAM timings are incorrect. Sometimes it would make the CAS Latency slower, sometimes it did reduce it from CL 9 (as specified) to CL 4 (not even manually selectable). It doesn't matter whether auto or manual RAM timings have been set in the BIOS, after S3 the timings are changed. If I hibernate, the timings are always correct. I actually use hibernate to correct the wrong timings caused by S3 sleep. Luckily, my RAM so far has been able to run all of the resulting bad timings.
I would not be astonished if the many problems with S3 sleep I've seen so far on this forum, all reported by users with X58 chipset, could be related to such a bug.
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X58 Pro - IOH Temperature - HELP! Bios?

Hello everyone... well after a number of years with a "regular" computer.... I have jumped back into an old hobby and bought an I-BuyPower PC as follows:
Processor & Memory: Intel® Core™ i7 Processor 920 (2.66GHz) 8MB Intel Smart Cache 6GB DDR3-1333 memory (2GB x 3) Triple ChannelMotherboard: Intel X58 chipset mainboard Drives:500GB (7,200 RPM) SATA 3Gb/s Hard Drive 22x max DVD±RW drive with Double Layer SupportGraphics: 1GB NVIDIA® GeForce® 9400 GT graphics 1 x DVI, 1 x S-Video, 1 x VGA out No monitor includedCommunications: Gigabit Ethernet LAN - 650 Watt Power Supply - Front fan, side 120 fan, rear 120 fan....
The Board is an MSI X-58 Pro...
After startup and install of basic software, I ran the Overclock software and noticed my IOH Temp is 72 at idle... CPU is only 28....
SOOOO....
1. Can someone tell me the "range" that each of the three temperatures should be....
2. Would flashing the BIOS help drop the IOH Temperature? Is it a bug?
My sincere thanks in advance for any help!!!!

Two of the X58 Pro's I've helped build were also 72c at idle. In retrospect, resetting the heatsinks probably wasn't necessary, but did it anyway. If you decide to do that, & don't want to re-use the stock plastic pins, nylon (thermal) bolts, washers, & nuts can be obtained from a few different sources. Hardware manufacturers or stores, hobby shops that cater to remote control aircraft etc. As deep33 suggested, the spot cooler is a good way to go too.
The heatsink hole size is 1/8" .125 U.S., 3.18mm. Length of about 1/2" (1cm?) does nicely. Depends on the height of the standoffs.
Edit: The hardware size I used is #4-40, 1/2" in length. (3mmx1cm? metric?)

Overclocking the i7, a beginners guide

To give credit where credit is due: This was not written by myself. I have only edited parts of it.
I found this on the internet, but it was such a great article, that I wanted to draw your attention to it. Credits go to Chad. Thanks for all the effort you put into this.
What is overclocking?
Overclocking is a process of making various components in a computer to go faster than their stock speeds. So if you buy a processor (lets say an i7-920 2.66 GHz) and make it go faster (lets say 3.6 GHz), that can be deemed as overclocking.
HALT! Do not proceed any further until you have read this:
Dell, Gateway, eMachine, etc... do not overclock very well, so proceed at your own risk. You break it, it is your fault.
A little bit more of some explanation:
This guide is intended to explain how to overclock and its uses. It was made for those who have computers (moreover, motherboards and other components) that support overclocking. If you bought a brand of computer like Dell, Sony, Gateway, HP, eMachine, or any other crappy PC (not saying all of them are) that comes for a store like Walmart, Best Buy, or Circuit City, then this guide does not pertain to you. Even though it is possible to overclock these systems with software, it is not recommended nor advised. This guide is meant for anyone who has a motherboard made by ASUS, GIGABYTE, Abit, DFI, (sometimes Intel), or any other well known brand known for their boards and overclocking abilities. But be forewarned, not all boards made by these companies are made to overclock. Check and see if yours does before going any farther than this final line.
Note: There are ways to bypass hardware overclocking via software, but it is not recommended and can make your PC unstable, even rendering it unable to stay stable till the system is returned to normal. Overclocking software is made for boards that supports overclocking so that changes can be made without having to restart.
Further notes:
-Motherboards not designed for overclocking will not go as far in overclocking, become unstable sooner, and heat far quicker.
-Computers with boards that do not support overclocking do not have adequate cooling.
Why would you want to overclock if it could be damaging?
Simple, to get more out of what you payed for. Overclocking is similar to going and upgrade a car's engine by boring out its piston chambers and adding better fuel injection, air intake, transmission, etc..., but there is always a risk in doing so. But it all boils down to one thing: performance. It is hard to fry your system if you are careful and know what you are getting yourself into. If you are careful about what you do, then it is rather hard to do any kind of permanent damage to your system by pushing it to its sheer limits.
As with any kind of performance enhancement, there is a level of risk involved. The first and foremost danger is heat. Heat will degrade and damage your components beyond repair if left unchecked and will most definitely lower your system's life span. When you overclock, you are making your computer do more work than it is used to, thus it is going to generate more heat, so having a good cooling system is essential. If you do not have sufficient cooling, then your system could and will overheat. Overheat by itself cannot kill your computer though, the only way for that to happen is to repeatedly overheat it time and time again past the recommended temperatures. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS TRY TO STAY AT OR BELOW YOUR CPU's MAX RATED TEMPERATURE! If you go above this, you can risk harming your CPU. Do so at your own risk. Run your CPU at 5-10C above its max temp for short periods only and ONLY for benchmarking purposes only. DO NOT DO IT FOR LONG TERM!
And as luck would have it, you do not have to be overly worried about your system overheat as there will be signs before you system becomes a fried potato. Random crashes are probably the most common sign. Overheat is easily prevented by the use of thermal sensors which can tell you how hot your system is getting. If you see temperatures that you think is too high, then either run at a lower speed, or get better cooling, which I will cover later on.
The other danger of overclocking is voltage. Too much, and you can significantly shorten your components' lifespan. A small boost will not do much, but if you plan on a rather hefty overclock, you may want to be aware that it will decrease the lifespan of your computer's components. But this is usually not an issue since most people who will overclock do not use their components for more than 4-5 years and there is a good chance your components will not fail before 4-5 years regardless of the voltages running through it. Most processors are designed to last in upwards of ten years. So most of the time, loosing a few of those years is worth the performance gained for overclocking.
Disclaimer for my own protection:
WARNING!!! READ THIS DAMN WARNING!!! I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR YOU WHINE YOU BROKE YOUR COMPUTER SO READ THIS WARNING!!!!!!
Overclocking can really mess things up, and it wares down your hardware and its life-expectancy. In other words, the more you overclock, the shorter your computer will live (like how an F1 car's engine must be replaced after every other race). If you attempt to overclock, then I am not responsible for any damage or destroyed hardware when using this guide. Follow at your own risk.
Overclocking
This guide is meant for beginners and not for people looking to squeeze out every last bit from their processor. That’s when things become extremely motherboard specific. The goal of this guide is to try to make overclocking the core i7 an easy and enjoyable experience. Overclocking your core i7 is a must; if you don’t you’re a chump. This guide will focus more on core i7 920s, but ideas will probably carry over into EE and higher end chips with locked multipliers.
Recommended hardware:
1. A good cooler (Do not use stock if you plan to go past around 3.5. You will run your processor way too hot) (Noctua, ThermalRight Ultra Extreme or Megahalem are my preferred ones but read around.
2. DDR3 1600+ - You can get away with 1333 but with ram being as cheap as it is, why not.
3. Pretty much any x58 board (although some are better than others, read some reviews).
4. A good PSU with an EPS(8 pin) plug.
5. Paper, Pencil, and Patience – Write things down so you can remember your successes and failures. There is not much to play with in terms of the i7, but keeping track of what you tried can eliminate any frustrating experiences and also allow you to go back to a known stable settings.
Recommended software for stability testing:
1. Prime95.
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/
2. Memtest86+ http://www.memtest.org/
3. Realtemp http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
4. CPUZ - http://www.cpuid.com
Many people have personal favorites but the above are what I use.
Not all I7s are created equal:
1. So you read on a thread that someone hit 4 ghz on a C0 stepping processor with only 1.28 vcore and you’re wondering if yours will do the same. It’s doubtful, but who knows. It may take you up to 1.4 volts at least with a C0. That’s life; if you're unhappy, sell it and buy a D0.
2. Not all i7s have the same quality IMC (Integrated Memory Controller). Some are more temperamental than others and will refuse to run your ram at its rated speed without a huge raise of qpi/uncore (VTT). This is not common and often it can be a sign of the quality of the ram.
3. For the most part, D0's overclock higher and at lower voltages than C0 chips, due to refinements in the fabrication process. Late C0 chips benefitted from the same refinements, and random other batches hit 4.0 ghz at really low volts. I have been told that some D0's do not hit 4.0, but most will do so at a lower voltage than most C0's. A D0 is a more desirable chip, but it's not a must and this guide is still useful to owners of C0's.
4. Toms Hardware article about speed vs power consumption is flawed and based on one really terrible C0 that needed 1.5 vcore to hit 4ghz. Is a D0 at 1.2v at 4 ghz going to consume more power than a C0 at 3.6 and 1.32 volts? No. The D0 will use less. Power consumption at any given voltage will increase about 3-11 watts (avg 5 for every 100 mhz you increase). Something brough to my attention recently though is that this may differ because some chips are leakier than others. A D0 is by no means a guarantee that it will consume less power.
5. If you want to reach higher clocks, you may need a better motherboard, cooler, chip or whatever. This guide is not for advanced overclockers.
Key Terms and Settings Quick Guide:
BCLK – Base Clock - This clock controls your memory speed, QPI speed, and core speed based on whatever multiples for those settings you have. It's the most important part of overclocking the Core i7. It's stock setting is 133
Uncore – This is basically the speed of everything which isn't your core (i.e. L3 cache, IMC, etc). It should be 2x your memory speed but allows for multipliers higher than 2x as well. Stability will be greatest at 2x.
QPI – Quickpath interconnect - It's basically the intel equivalent of AMD's hypertransport. It's how the CPU and the X58 chipset communicate. It has multipliers of 18x, 22x, and 24x. The 920 should be left at 18x creating a 9:8 ratio between the uncore and the memory multiplier assuming you use the 8x ratio, which some claim offers the greatest stability. Although people have been able to run it at all sorts of ratios.
Memory - Memory is calculated based on either a 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, or 14x of your base clock. I recommend 6x and 8x. Depending on your mobo bios it may be called ratio or multiplier.
Ram Timings – This guide will only deal with the first four and the command rate. There are other guides regarding these. You can use XMP (intel's memory profile system) to have these values plugged in but it may set your QPI/uncore voltage automatically to 1.35 which may be more than you need (although it will be stable).
Turbo mode – This enables the 21x multiplier on the chip. Most boards allow you to do this with eist disabled, but some boards require it enabled. See if a newer bios lets you change things.
CPU Multiplier – On the 920 the range is from 12x – 21x (22x on one core when at stock speeds). It has been found that the 19x and 21x multipliers are more stable than the 20x.
Vcore – Voltage of your cpu. See below for tweaking instructions.
PLL – phase-locked loop – Just use the settings recommended below (1.8 – 1.88 is within specification).
QPI/Uncore (VTT) – This voltage is the VTT although it does play a role in feeding the IMC with voltage enough to overclock your ram, the L3 cache and a number of other things (Specification is that it should be less than 1.35 but when taking droop into account you can go higher, probably 1.4 is safe. Some ram modules have XMP profiles which call for higher QPI so some will argue that this is safe. I'm not going to argue one way or the other.)
Vdimm – Your ram voltage (Specification says 1.65 max but 1.66 is fine and so is a bit higher depending on your QPI/uncore voltage).
Important to do before you overclock:
EIST – Enhanced intel speedstep technology - It's a power saving tech that should be disabled while testing overclocking stability. This should be disabled while finding your OC, but can be enabled after you are stable (Disable if you have stability issues).
C1E – Another intel power saving technology. Disable while overclocking, enable afterwards.
Anything Spread Spectrum – Disable it.
PCIE frequency – Always at 100, but see FAQ questions below.
LLC - Load Line Calibration - This gets rid of vdroop when enabled and can help stabilize overclocks. It breaks intel spec, but it is highly recommended to enable it, since it will reduce the needed vcore for a stable OC. The argument for vdroop is that it's a standard and reduces voltage spikes. I have not been able to find anyone who's done any damage by enabling LLC and thus disabling vdroop. In an old anandtech review from 2007 they found that it increased power consumption on an X38 asus board; a newer xbitlabs article using X58 found that it actually decreased with more threads or was otherwise the same. This guide pretty much assumes you use it, but like anything else you are taking the risk. Then again, on my board, enabling it doesn't give you any red letter warning like when you maybe tap your vdimm above 1.65.
All other settings leave at auto unless needed for stability.
Initial steps:
If you've played around with any settings before reset your bios to its stock options. There's probably no need to reset your CMOS, but it can't hurt; if you don't know how to reset your CMOS then I suggest you learn to do so. It's unlikely that you will have to as most modern motherboards will usually have some sort of protection against bad overclocks and automatically allow you to reset the bios upon a bad boot.
Once your bios is at its stock configuration disable EIST, turbo mode, C1, and any other power saving options that may interfere with an overclock as well as any spread spectrum settings. Now, boot into windows (If you want to use the 21x multiplier then go right ahead and set it as long as you can do so without enabling EIST). Open up cpuz, load up prime and see where the voltage goes. This is your approximate vid for stock. The chip may very well run under this voltage, but this is the vid that the bios is seeing.
From here we have a number of different methods we can try. I always change my BCLK in my bios settings so that anything set to auto will adjust itself if need be, although you are free to use whatever windows based tools you want although beware of any problems they may cause you.
You should always set your memory to 8x or 6x depending on what you have and your uncore to 2x the memory. Leave the QPI at the lowest setting.
Set windows not to restart on a bsod (You want to know what the error was):
Windows XP and Vista Directions, but it is the same for Win7.
Method #1: Optimizing for max performance per watt.
This method takes by far the most amount of time but for many its worth it in terms of its power efficiency.
Begin by going into the bios and changing your voltage to your vid and setting QPI/uncore (VTT) to 1.25 (I have raised this due to concerns about droop at 1.2) and vdimm to 1.65 (Most boards can't do this; 1.66 is safe, ignore your spaz bios warnings; you are not going to explode anything, although if you do, it's not my fault. Set it to 1.64 if it helps you sleep easier. I recommend at this point to be working with either the 21x multiplier if possible in order to keep your ram as much out of the equation as possible. 20X has known problems and 19x will land you with high ram speeds quicker which will require raises in the QPI/uncore voltage sooner.
Open up real temp and run Prime 95 with 8 threads and check stability for an hour at least (The more the better. I recommend overnight just to make sure all is good). Record your settings on a piece of paper or email them to yourself. Make sure to have Realtemp open in order to watch your temperatures. Temperatures should not exceed 80-85 during Prime. During normal use for extended periods, they should never see these kinds of temperatures. I like to keep mine below 70 for normal usage.
After its stable go into the bios and increase the BCLK by 10 and repeat the process. Find the max BCLK for your stock vid (or any voltage, if you'd like by lowering by smaller amounts when you find an unstable clock. This will help you know what you can run at any given voltage.
See below for known Prime 95 errors and how they relate to your settings (also some settings to try for stability). Once you get to the clocks you want, I recommend running Prime for at least 16-24 hours. I have in fact had errors in the 14th hour so it's good to know that you're truly stable.
See also below for optimizing your ram settings.
Method #2: Quick and dirty method for 4ghz aka screw efficiency
Set your ioh and ich to 1.2, your vdimm to 1.65, your cpu pll to 1.88, and your QPI/uncore to 1.35.
For D0 users set your vcore to 1.275 and for C0/C1 users set your vcore to 1.4 and BCLK to 190/191 or 210/211 and multiplier to 21 and 19 respectively. Check for Prime stability. D0's should be fine, but C0/C1 still may not make it, at this point your temps may be too high if you're not on water, so I suggest you start working backward in order to hit a much lower vcore or use method 3.
Method #3: Quick and dirty vcore boosting.
Set your ioh and ich to 1.2, your vdimm to 1.65, your cpu pll to 1.88, and your QPI/uncore to 1.35. Set BCLK to 190/191 or 210/211 and multiplier to 21 and 19 respectively.
The D0 chip usually hits 4.0 in the vcore range of 1.175 and 1.25. Try those voltages until you find whats right for your chip.
The C0/C1 is a much more difficult beast with a much larger range of 1.27 to around 1.4 and up to 1.5 (Do not attempt on air unless you live somewhere really, really cold). Some may not hit 4ghz at all.
This method is more difficult as some chips may not boot until you give them the proper vcore
How to use Prime95 to test stability:
Open up Prime95 and Realtemp to check your idles and loads. Set Prime95 to whatever priority you'd like. I prefer 4 or 7 so that realtemp still updates but some people prefer 10 and will run without a temperature monitor. Either is fine, but I'm always paranoid that my cooler will somehow become unlatched spontaneously. Set windows not to restart on bluescreen by setting [insert settings here] so that you can catch the error (although windows will record it somewhere). Start a mixed torture test and let it run for however long, depending on if you're only doing a temporary stability test in order to raise (about 1 hour) or a true stability test (16-24 hours). Once you've passed Prime95 you can run any other stability test that you want.
Prime 95 Errors:
Freeze: Increase the vcore
Other errors can indicate instability with the chip if they are during small fft (increase vcore by .125) or instability with ram large ftt (Try raising the ioh and/or running memtest).
BSOD code 101: Increase the vcore. I recommend increasing by +.025 if you get a bsod
BSOD code 124: Increasese or decrease the QPI/uncore by .25. Depending on where you are in your stability tests you'll probably need to increase it. 1.375 is the max I'm comfortable with although people say 1.4+ is safe. This is for you to determine and research. Don't do anything you're not comfortable with. Intel says do not go above 1.35 so 1.375 with droop and loss is safe and not too far outside specification.
It is important to note that sometimes QPI can be too high and that might cause this code. That's why it's not a good idea to just set things to 1.35 and hope for the best. If you find that increasing QPI/uncore voltage is not increasing stability, try decreasing it. Just remember of course, to keep track of your settings. I recommend not increasing, unless you have to (Don't be arbitrary about it).
D0 exclusive BSOD weird 2 letter/number codes: Treat this as a 101 and increase vcore by +.025. Update: It seems that these error codes can crop up for other reasons. Depending on where you are in the process you should take a look at your other voltages. I realize this is vague, but you may need to experiment.
If any worker fails, especially during small fft then it's cpu voltage. Bump it once or twice. If it fails during large fft then its probably memory error you can try running memtest/upping ioh. I would try running small fft at that point for a good amount of time and make sure its not the cpu voltage. If it passes 8-12 hours of small fft then work on making it pass large fft. Just remember to keep track of your settings. That's not to say that a large fft error won't be the result of cpu voltage, it's just not what I would try. Be methodical. If something allows Prime to run significantly longer then keep it. Significant depends where you are in the process. If your workers fail as soon as you start and a setting change gets you through a test then I'd say its good. If you get crashes during the 8th hour, and the setting change only gets you another 5 minutes in the 8th hour, it's probably just random and not the setting.
Testing Memory Stability with memtest 86+:
Personally, I do not run memtest until I actually encounter what could be memory errors( I assume things work until proven otherwise). Begin by setting your ram timings in the bios and setting your QPI/uncore to 1.35 and your vdimm to 1.64-1.66. Do not oc your cpu. Just run your ram at its rated spec to make sure that the ram is stable and not defective. You can also check it again with an oc'ed cpu as well. If it's unstable try raising the ioh to 1.20 or higher. If you are still getting errors try each dimm one at a time and see if you need to RMA (A pain in the *** but necessary).
Optimizing ram with memtest86+:
Assuming your ram is stable you can either overclock, lower voltage, tighten timings, or all of the above.
1. Lowering voltage. Run memtest86 for 20 minutes, if you get errors, stay where you are. Otherwise lower the vdimm by .02 and repeat until you get an error within 20 minutes. Then run it overnight.
2. Overclocking. You may be able to run your ram faster than you thought. Loosen the timings(make them higher) and then increase BCLK. You can optimize your voltage with the above number one. Depending on the ram, you may be able to overclock quite a bit or not at all. Running your ram at anything above 1066 is in fact overclocking the IMC.
3. Tightening timings. Timings should be decreased as such. Assuming you begin with 9-9-9 your next step should be 9-9-8 then 9-8-8 then 8-8-8. You can also try 8-9-8 but this is going to depend on your memory. You may need to raise voltages to tighten the timings.
The usefulness of overclocking your ram is limited. See the useful links sections below to see how certain ram settings will impact your real life performance.
Frequently asked questions:
Q: I can't raise my BCLK over some number. How do I fix it? What's the deal?
A: Not all chips and motherboards are made the same. You can try playing around with voltage amplitude, pll, skew or pcie (pcie is probably best not raised as it can cause damage). This is a question that is better asked on a thread dedicated to a specific board. You may end up being out of luck.
Q: What are safe voltages?
A: According to Intel or common knowledge the following are the safe air temperatures:
Vcore: ~1.4
QPI/uncore (VTT): 1.35
PLL: 1.88
Vdimm:~1.65 (Some will say that you are safe within .5 of your QPI/uncore allowing for a max of 1.85 on vdimm. See the link to the xtreme systems forum below on this subject for a long thread).
IOH: Less than 1.3
ICH: Less than 1.3
Q: My chip is too hot before I can reach 4 ghz. What can I do?
A: Disable hyperthreading or buy a better cooler (Noctua, TRUE or Megahalems recommended).
Q: But don't I want hyperthreading?
A: It's certainly nice to have a feature you paid for, but it sometimes decreases performance and it definitely causes a lot of heat. It's up to you.
Q: How do I go past 4ghz?
A: Same way as you got there in the first place. Just keep increasing BCLK. Past this point though it's up to you to do some research on your own.
Q: What is this multiplier throttling I've heard about?
A: Some boards will throttle down the 21x multiplier if the wattage becomes too high. The culprits without public fixes are the Asus P6T Deluxe and vanilla (The Deluxe v1 has a bios available on the xtremesystems forum which can be crossflashed onto the v2 which will fix this problem) It really only becomes a problem at high voltages with high frequencies. Other boards have ways of disabling it.
Q: Why would I want to optimize my voltages?
A: Save money on power bills and leave more wattage for other devices.
Q: My chip was stable for X amount of time and now it's not?
A: Have you added any hardware? How are your temperatures? High voltages and high temps can cause decay and make the chip require more voltage for an overclock. It may also be that your PSU is starting to go or maybe your motherboard is. Do your best to troubleshoot this.
Q: My temperatures seem really high? Is X degrees ok?
A: A better question is whether or not you are ok with X degrees. How long do you plan to won this chip? What are your ambients? If your house is 40 degrees centigrade, don't expect your chip to drop below that unless you are using extreme cooling (also try to move somewhere cooler cause that's really hot or get some AC, are you trying to cook yourself?). A cpu well taken care of can last over a decade when run within spec. How long do you really think you're going to keep this chip? A rule of thumb I go by is never push a part that I can't afford to replace if I break it (I do this anyway, but its a good rule nonetheless). Your temps will always get higher than normal when stress testing so do some normal stuff to see if your temperatures are acceptable. Try backing down a bit if you are unhappy.
Q: I heard this will work or this needs to be this way?
A: Try it. This is a general guide, not a set of hard and fast rules.
Q: My computer restarted while priming; how do I find out the error?
A: If you haven't already, disable bsod restarts in windows. Sometimes, though, it decides to restart anyway.
Open Computer Management by right-clicking the Computer icon on the start menu (or on the Desktop if you have it enabled) and select Manage. Navigate to the Event Viewer. Note: If you did not disable UAC then you will be prompted to consent to the action you're about to perform. Click Continue. Note: You can also open the Event Viewer by typing Event Viewer in the Search box and pressing Enter, or typing eventvwr.msc in the Run command.
Also check the results.txt in your Prime95 folder for a log of when it ultimately crashed and what it was doing at the time.
Q: Whats the deal with PCIE frequency? Can it help break my BCLK wall?
A: Yes, but I advise caution. Raising this too much can damage things running on the pcie bus or cause them to not work. I would not raise it personally more than a few mhz. You are probably safe at 103, but I take no responsibility of course.
Voltages/settings you can try to use to increase stability:
PLL: 1.88
IOH: 1.2+
ICH: 1.2
CPU voltage amplitude: +800mv
CPU Skew: +300ps
Command rate: change from 1n to 2n
You should really check in on your specific board as not all boards have the same settings. Be methodical in testing settings since you want to know whether something helped or hurt by itself before you combine.
Useful Links:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/538439-guide-overclocking-core-i7-920-4-a.html
Intel Info on the i7
QPI/Uncore voltage (XS) (Do not take this as gospel try to stay in spec unless you feel like really pushing things)
Info on multiplier throttling (XS)
Memory Scaling on the Core I7

My i7 rig is with a socket 1156 board, an Asus P7P55D mobo, and an 860 CPU. I know the Corsair DDR3 memory @ its stock 1.65v simply doesn't run at 1600mhz like it says on its box - 1333mhz seems to be its stability wall.
I upgraded my Q6600 and Asus P5B deluxe rig because so many people said to never consider overclocking on an editing rig. Was that over-cautious advice?

New System Opinion?

What do you guys think of this price?
$1,445.00 ×
CAS: Apevia X-Supra Gaming Mid-Tower 420W Case
CPU: Intel® Core2 i7-920 2.66 GHz 8M L3 Cache LGA1366
CD: LG 20X DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW DRIVE DUAL LAYER
FAN Intel LGA1366 Certified CPU Fan & Heatsink
HDD: Single Hard Drive (500GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16MB Cache 7200RPM HDD)
HDD2: 2TB (1TBx2) SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16MB Cache 7200RPM Hard Drive
MOTHERBOARD: MSI X58 Platinum Intel X58 Chipset SLI/CrossFireX Mainboard Triple-Channel DDR3/1600 SATA RAID w/ eSATA,Dual
GbLAN,USB2.0,IEEE1394a,&7.1Audio
MEMORY: 6GB (3x2GB) PC1333 DDR3 PC3 10666 Triple Channel Memory
OS: Microsoft® Windows Vista Ultimate w/ Service Pack 1 [+209] (64-bit Edition
VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce 9400 GT 512MB 16X PCI Express

It would be the CPU of my choice.
I understand the 2TB drive is actually two 1TB drives. What I was suggesting was to split them apart. Don't get them in a RAID.
As for the smaller system drive, it's less about saving money than it is about efficiency. Ideally you should put nothing on the system drive but Windows and programs, nothing else. 500GB will be a waste. (For example, mine is 75GB and is less than half full.) That's why I recommend the smaller System drive and use the 500GB for Projects/Scratch.

System configuration question for HD editing on new system.

I've been editing in premiere for close to 9 years but have stuck mostly to DV video. I recently bought Production Premium and wanted to jump into editing HD. Here is the system I installed the Production Premium CS4 on; (I will use Premiere, AE, and PhotoShop the most)
Processor: Intel Core i7 960 CPU
CPU Speed: 3.2Ghz
CPU Cores: 4
CPU Threads: 8
L3 Cache size: 8MB
Memory: DDR3-1333 (PC3 10666) 6GB Triple Channel (I will upgrade to 24GB once the price on the 4gig chips drops)
Motherboard: Intel x58 Chipset South Bridge: ICH10R Socket 1366
Graphics: ATI Radeon HD4890 1GB (Is this OK?)
OS Drive: Capacity: 1TB WD(Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit)
Speed: 7,200 RPM
Video Drive: 2 1TB Seagate Drives in raid 0 (mobo raid)
Speed:7,200 RPM
Buffer mem: 32mb
Additional Information: 24x DVDRW Double Layer, 700-watt power supply
I have two IDE 120gig WD drives I was thinking of putting in a raid 0 for the scratch. Would this be advisable? Would the IDE configuration be quick enough for this purpose? How much space should I dedicate to scratch (do I really need the full 240gigs)?
I will buy two more 1TB Seagate Drives for more video storage. would running all 4 of the seagate 1TB drives in raid 0 be beneficial for HD editing? or should I just create a separate raid configuration for those two additional drives?
(I will backup to a network drive(s) so I want the system itself to be built for speed [without getting obscenely expensive])
What is your opinion on addition hardware such as the matrox cards for help with HD editing? (I used the RT2000 with the DV editing and it was an "adventure" to say the least to get that one working right.)
Thanks,
-Tom T.

For some general information about RAID configurations, look here: http://forums.adobe.com/thread/525263?tstart=0
As long as you can stuff 2 IDE drives in your case, go ahead and use those in a raid0 for a fixed pagefile of 8 - 12 GB and set your scratch to this raid. If you want to use this array for temporary storage of downloads, etc. no problem.
The two additional disks would be used best if you create either a 4 disk raid5 to have at least some redundancy or as spearate disks. One for projects, the other one for exports and your current raid0 for media. I would not advise a 4 disk raid0 because of the chance of disk failure.
I would not use anything Matrox, better to invest that in a good raid controller, so you will profit from the performance gain with all applications, or by increasing memory.

Windows 7 refuses to detect eSATA drive! (790FX-GD70 mobo)

I just built a new computer using Windows 7 64-bit. Here's the component config for it:
MSI 790FX-GD70
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
XFX Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition
OCZ Gold 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 (OCZ3G1600LV6GK)
Seagate Barracuda LP ST31500541AS 1.5TB 5900 RPM 32MB Cache
My problem is that I can't hot swap my eSATA drive which is a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache in a Rosewill RX-358-S external enclosure. Yes, I realize my hard drives are backwards...I purchased the 7200 RPM a while ago and have been using it externally. I've been fortunate enough to not have it die on me (they get horrible reviews) and couldn't resist ordering another 1.5TB Seagate when it was on sale. I haven't noticed the newer one that ended up in my system is only 5900 RPM until now - didn't even realize it was 5900 RPM when I purchased it. It actually dropped my Windows Experience Index to 5.9 because of it - the next lowest thing is the processor at 7.4 (which seems low to me when it's a 3.5 GHZ quad-core). Oh well, it's just not worth messing around with an active partition and another massive hard drive that's already 95% full of crap to make it a bit more "proper".
Being unable to hot swap was the first problem. It would only detect the drive when it was plugged in prior to booting. Now I just noticed it doesn't seem to detect it all because I no longer get a drive icon for it in Windows Explorer where as I previously did. I tried enabling AHCI in the BIOS. I didn't install Windows with it enabled which appears to be a problem with XP but I figure Windows 7 would be able to update it on its own by now - I did get a driver update message in the task bar after enabling it on the next boot. If I plug it into the rear eSATA port as opposed to the external port my case provides it gets detected in the POST process on a new screen (which is a total waste of 5-10 seconds waiting for it to advance - so much for enabling quick post). If I use the case's eSATA extension that is connected to a motherboard SATA port it doesn't even get detected during the boot process.
I don't know if this is a motherboard issue or a Windows 7 issue, or both. It seems so weird that the eSATA drive used to get detected at least. Now it's just nothing. I really miss that faithful old XP. I never used Vista but if 7 is an improvement over it Vista must have been hell. Explorer and Gadgets are constantly crashing on my computer. Windows Gagdgets will routinely crash within 30 seconds of reaching the desktop. I can't even use MSI's Live Update feature. After running it I get a message saying the service isn't enabled! Please tell me I'm not the only one experiencing these ridiculous issues, and please help me with my eSATA problem because I'm at my wit's end!

Quote from: Henry on 21-February-10, 13:57:33
Yup, RAM marketed expressly for Intel i7 & X58 3 channel rigs is not what you should buy for 2 channel AMD rigs. Get some made for AMD dual channel rigs. 1/2 of your problems are probably caused by that.
I thought that Designed specifically for the Intel X58 chipset / Core i7 was just some marketing thing and all that really mattered was RAM pin type supported by the mobo.
Does the motherboard have the 2 blue and 2 black RAM slots because of that? When I first saw them I thought one group was for DDR2 and the other group for DDR3 but I figured there's no way they could put only 2 RAM slots on a board like this. That should have been my clue they meant something more.
Now could I also just get the same exact spec 2 GB stick to fill out the other slot, or is there something that makes this specific for Intel on the technical side of things? For example, could I replace it with this two piece package with the same RAM specs even though it says it's Compatible with Dual Channel Intel Core i5 & i7 CPU for P55 chipset motherboard or is there an AMD type RAM I need?

About Mac Pro RAM and one "Nehalem" Processor 2.8 vs 3.2

Hi,
Unfortunately I don't have so much money to spend but I find Apple products very high quality and in same time very expensive, specially for my country (Russia), according to statistic, it’s less then 1% of people that using Mac Pro in here, my country really poor :/
I never use Mac before, but I think that time is come and I would like to buy one on my birthday soon (22 November). I really tired of my crazy PC with Vista, it’s always bugs lags, and so on, it’s poor machine. I can buy new PC with i7, nice performances or buy Mac, but I think, Mac will be more quality and stable.
I'm web designer and programmer and using my PC with Adobe programs, normally Photoshop, Illustrator, Dreamweaver, very rare with After Effect (1 day per month). Sometimes I’m playing games like Dragon Age or CS:Source, Starcraft2. But I got PS3, but unfortunately it’s connected to our main home TV, and I can’t play PS3 because all day this TV watching my family :/ lol
I’m not sure if there are any way to connect PS3 to TV and computer screen at the same time… but it’s another question.
Now about Mac I'm wondering of buying cheapest Mac Pro 2010:
# One 2.8GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon “Nehalem”
# 3GB (3x1GB)
# 1TB 7200-rpm Serial ATA 3Gb/s hard drive
# ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB
# One 18x SuperDrive
But at the same time, I wondering about how long time I will be able to use this Mac, and enjoy it before it will come too old. Because I just can’t spend and buy Mac every 2-3 years.
I’m looking forward to use it for 4-5 years I think or so. I know it’s very hard question and I’m not really sure if it’s right to discuss it, but I’m saying just what I think.
And maybe because of this, it’s better to order processor with 3.2Ghz, and a bit more RAM (8GB (4x2GB))? What you think?
And what will be the different between this 2 processors and more RAM? Because it will be +800 USD or so, and it’s very expensive for me (pay addition 800 Dollars), I just want to ask you if it will costs this money. Unfortunately I can’t spend more money on Mac to buy 6-core Westmare and more RAM But I think cheapest Mac, for my tasks already very powerful and awesome, what you think?
And if you’ll advice me, not to pay addition 400 USD for +0.4Ghz, and the different is very little, then what you think about addition Ram for stock MAC?

Thank you hatter.
I'm appreciate for your help and answer, and this amazing links! They are very helpful.
I find some interesting information. And most interesting is SSD thing. But unfortunately it's very expensive for me
I got 2 ways to go, and I really confused now. I take a look what you said, about making a PC with i7. And here is what I find on our Russian market - only 1 company which offers high quality custom PC's with up to 3 years guarantee.
What they can offer:
Price: $2060
(Basic Config: DEPO Ego Z71i)
OS:
Microsoft® Windows 7 Home Premium RUS 32-bit
or
Microsoft® Windows 7 Home Premium RUS 64-bit
MotherBoard:
*ASUS P6T, Intel®X58 chipset , DDR3, ATX*
CPU:
*Intel® Core™ i7 Processor 930 (4-Cores, 2.80GHz, 4.8 GT/s, 8Mb)*
Intel® Core™ i7 Processor 950 (4-Cores, 3.06GHz, 4.8 GT/s, 8Mb) +$365
Intel® Core™ i7 Processor Extreme Edition 980X (6-Cores, 3.33GHz, 6.4 GT/s, 12Mb) +$1150
RAM:
*3Gb DDR3-1600 Corsair Dominator, Triple Channel*
6Gb DDR3-1600 Corsair , Triple Channel +$40
12Gb DDR3-1600 Corsair , Triple Channel +$260
HDD1:
*1TB SATA hard drive (7200rpm)*
2 x 1TB SATA hard drive (7200rpm) +$80
4 x 1TB SATA hard drive (7200rpm) +$230
2 x 2TB SATA hard drive (7200rpm) +$355
4 x 2TB SATA hard drive (7200rpm) +$790
HDD2:
WD VelociRaptor 150GB, 10000rpm, 16Mb cache, SATA-II +$175
2.5" 64GB SSD SATA II +$205
WD VelociRaptor 300GB, 10000rpm, 16Mb cache, SATA-II +$285
2.5" 128GB SSD SATA II +$405
RAID:
RAID0 (required minimum 2 HDD) +$10
RAID1 (required minimum 2 HDD) +$10
Optical Drive 5.25":
*DVD±RW/CD-RW/DVD 16x4x/5xDL/16x4x/16x/48x/24x/48x*
BD-ROM&DVD RAM&DVD±R/RW, 5x/5x/12(R9 6)x/6x/12(R9 4)x/6x/12x/24x/24x/32x +$130
SuperMulti Blu-Ray ReWriter +$235
Card Reader 3.5":
*Card Reader/Writer 50 in 1 (CF/MD/SM/MS/SD/MMC)*
Video:
*ATI Radeon™ HD 5870 (1024МБ, PCI-E TV-out DVI+HDMI)*
1536MB NVIDIA GeForce 480GTX PCI-E DVI +$110
2x ATI Radeon™ HD 5850 (1024МБ, PCI-E TV-out DVI+HDMI) +$230
2x ATI Radeon™ HD 5870 (1024МБ, PCI-E TV-out DVI+HDMI) +$490
Sound:
*Realtek 7.1 (integrated)*
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi™ Titanium Fatal1ty Champion Series +$400
Power:
*800W (12sm)*
1000W (14sm) +$50
1200W (14sm) +$55
WiFi:
*WLAN 802.11bg*
Mouse + KeyBoard: (lol)
Without mouse and keyboard -$75
Cordless Desktop® Wave Pro™ +$75
Maitance:
*1 Year*
2 Years +$10
3 Years +$20
Ok, that’s it.
DEPO - It’s our Russian company so I can’t give you link on English web page, but if you are interesting to view it, maybe with Google translate:
http://www.depo.ru/H/MDL658/1000004953/zconfigurator.aspx
And I’m not really sure, if they offer high quality components, and I can’t check it.
I just don’t want to repeat same experience like with my previous computer – I bought top computer for very high price with top components, but everything was bugging, it’s terrible, I’m working with this computer 3 years now (it’s cored 2 duo with radeon x1900 and vista :S video card - without supporting DX10-11, 2 Hdd 500Gb RAID 0, - maximum lags – I cant’ even make a diagnostics… crazy). And I’m so sad about this computer, and I don’t want to repeat same experience. That’s why I wonder about Mac Pro or any other quolity PC, but price is too high, or if I buy just normal Mac Pro:
• One 2.8GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon “Nehalem”
• 3GB (3x1GB)
• 1TB 7200-rpm Serial ATA 3Gb/s hard drive
• ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB
• One 18x SuperDrive
• Apple Magic Mouse
• Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad (English) & User's Guide
For 2499 USD, I still need to add more RAM, and It will costs 2874 USD with 8 Gb, but without changing Processor and/or HDD for SSD to speed up computer like **** and enjoy it every minute. I maximum can spend 3000-3200 USD for new computer. And all I want, to enjoy it’s stability and speed. To load photoshop in less then 5 seconds, working with AE a bit, 3dmax a bit, play a bit. Maybe I want to much :/

I7 running nvidia is there a problem?

hi peeps is it just me or is that most of the problems with graphics card seem to be nvida based. Or is it just me but the ATI do not seem to be suffering same problems.
so could it be drives or is it the X58 chipset ? Well i have tried sevaral nvidia cards and there a mixed bunch of results from not woring at all to curupt graphics to working.

Huh? This thread is well over a year old. What in the world does this link have to show other than an ATI VGA can be troublesome with an X58 system also?

MSI Eclipse Plus Motherboard Featuring NF200 Chip is it worth the it????

Well MSI have launched there i7 with NF200 support according to some uk sites and the price is like ouch ouch and ouch again £350ish. Also it seems from some reports on the NF200 it slower that the X58 without the chip so is it really worth the money? Or are we been ripped of by the computer industry.

I agree with mechsner , for now it's overkill , on the eclipse you can run 2x pci-e 16x or 1 pci-ex16 and 2 x pci-ex8 for triple sli.
If you use 2x gtx295 or 2x 4870x2 you got quad sli on 2x pci-ex16 (black slots).
Maybe in the future when gpu's get stronger and faster but now ?
Now sli is software related on the x58 chipset, but with the nf200 it' hardware related. is this better ?
Follow the link for a interesting reviewhttp://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTYwNiwxLCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==
you will see something very strange.

X58 chipset?

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