X60 power cord melting

My x60 power cord is melting and smelling really bad. ...............Computer is working fine.......
This is the second power cord I got from Lenovo. I have replaced it before.......

2 options:
Your AC adapted is faulty.
You have an electricity problem at your home/place where you are.
Best regards.
IPnaSh
First Spanish Community Guru - Colaborador ad honorem

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Fed up with malfunctioning power cords

So I've been using Apple computers steadily since 2006. I currently have two Macbook Pros, one 13" and one 17". Before that, I had a basic white 13" Macbook. It lasted a good long time, almost three years, but in that time I had two power cords melt near the power brick, to the point of not working no matter how much I wiggled the wires and the plug and braced the cord against things. I gather this was a problem with some of the older power cords, and that it has since been adjusted so that they don't wear out quite so soon. I don't recall all the details and numbers after the point where I got the newer 13", but I've since had another cord start to show signs of melting near the brick, a perfectly fine cord that was NOT melting instead become useless to me because two of the pins in the Magsafe plug receded into the surface they stick out of, and another one that is suffering from an unknown issue that may or may not have been caused by the laptop sliding off my bed onto the floor, landing on the plug side (and unplugging the cord via impact against the plug).
The point is, I have two laptops, and two cords, and both the cords are on their way towards death. I'm using the one that seemed to have started melting right now, and it's doing what the other melty ones did before they croaked, with a super high-pitched whine coming from the power brick, and a tendency to not provide power unless everything is just so. The other one is the one that may have some busted wires inside from the impact, but it's been fine for a couple of weeks until just a couple of days ago, when it ceased to work for several hours, for no apparent reason. They've both been finicky today, so I've been switching back and forth; on plugging one in when it hasn't been used for an hour or two, it tends to work fine, almost like they're both overheating to the point of not being able to provide power.
Actually I have a second point, which is that I would really like Apple to do something about this, but I'm way out from under the coverage period for both computers, and the automated phone system informed me that I'd have to pay $50 to get help because of that, which I'm not going to do. Okay, the one cord that was involved in the fall is technically on me, but the other FOUR malfunctioned all on their own, all within a year of getting them from new. Apple replaced the very first one, but didn't see any reason to do so with the others (that I was able to contact them about), and I wouldn't mind having to buy a new one for myself if it wasn't so frequent. They shouldn't be failing so soon, especially with the kinds of problems they're failing WITH.
I guess I need a question to make this post worthwhile; can someone suggest how I get in touch with Apple without having to shell out $50 that I don't have, and which could otherwise go towards a new cord, if they're not going to do anything about it? Otherwise; WHY are these cords doing this? 95% of the time I'm in bed with the laptop(s), the extension cord is plugged into the wall, the power brick is on the floor, and the skinny cord is coming up the side of my bed and into the laptop. There's no running over the cord with chair wheels, nothing sitting on it, it hardly ever gets moved or even stepped on (with my bare feet on the carpet). There is no stressor except the passage of time and an inability for the cords to deal with their own heat, apparently.

I just posted on this problem on another thread, before I found this one.
Personally, I am disgusted.
This is not a simple malfunction : it is a SERIOUS FIRE HAZARD!!
NOT a question of owners mistreating their Mac/Apple product but
A SERIOUS DESIGN/MATERIAL flaw.
Now that I have read this thread, I know I am not alone, as Apple support would have me believe.
The Store clerk (sorry I do not buy into the "Genious" thang) politely told me that somehow this
melted power cord was MY FAULT! Apparently, I have somehow "allowed" the cord to "bend" in
a direction that "stresses" the delicate item, and "caused" too much pressure at the junction which "made" the cord break.
GIVE ME A BREAK APPLE!!!! I do not care how pretty your power cord is!! I want it to last.
As I mentioned in my other post, I visit enough cafes to check this out. In fact i have told at least three people
a) not to leave this melted, wire exposed cord plugged in when it is out of their sight (FIRE HAZARD)
b) That they must attempt to at least tape the exposed wires.
Although, again, I DID tape mine and guess what? The standard industry electric tape DISOLVED the rubber on my cord.
What are we to do? Apple Support (yes, I appreciate their difficulties, and find them always very very polite has whezzled its way out of this question at least three times now!
OH - more on my "CrackBook" later...that's the OTHER Apple flaw I am spending much of my good time on trying to fix....
gosh I want to love you Apple! You're a nice guy, but NOT reliable marriage material!

Mag Safe power cord sparks when connected or disconnected--whereupon the MacBook Pro 13'' dumps date and time, and all passwords, plus any/all unsaved information.

I purchased my MacBook Pro 13" from the Apple Store in Tucson, AZ, in mid-January. Since then, every time the Mag-Safe cord is jostled, not even disconnected, sparks fly from the power terminal on the computer, the computer shuts down, and dumps its passwords, as well as the date and time.
Any work in progress is also lost.
I work overseas, and Apple's advice was to give them my credit card number, await shipment of a new power supply and cord, and then, when I return the old power supply and cord, i'd receive a credit. That won't work, as packages from the US to my location take weeks if they arrive at all. There is no Apple Store within a reasonable distance. Or, Apple suggests, when I'm home on leave in mid-June, I should bring the computer to the Apple Store for repair--I have only days in which to do that, but I suppose I'll need to try. My concern is that I'll need to return overseas without my computer and won't be able to retrieve it for months, until my next leave.
This issue shows up elsewhere online. Is there a short in the power terminal in the computer, or on the Mag-Safe power cord, or within the computer itself? It's a known issue, thus I wonder why it hasn't been fixed.

Odd, but here's a copy of Page 1 of the links I got:
Apple Portables: Troubleshooting MagSafe adapters26 May 2011 ... If the spark comes from somewhere other than the blades of the plug, .... Apple Portables: Reducing cable strain on your MagSafe power ...
support.apple.com › Support - Cached
Apple - Support - Discussions - Magsafe sparked when plugging into ...
2 posts - 2 authors - Last post: 22 FebI plugged my magsafe adapter into my macbook pro (mid 2010 model i think ...
discussions.apple.com › ... › Power and Batteries on a MacBook Pro - Cached
Mag Safe power cord sparks when...: Apple Support Communities6 Jun 2011 ... Mag Safe power cord sparks when connected or disconnected ...
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15350172
Show more results from apple.com
Apple power brick sparks lawsuit • The Register
- 4:52am6 May 2009 ... Apple power brick sparks lawsuit ... Apple, for its part, made the MagSafe one of the featured, um, features of the MacBook Pro when it ...
www.theregister.co.uk/2009/05/06/apple_magsafe_lawsuit/ - Cached - Similar
My MagSafe sparks everytime - Philippine Mac Users Group
10 posts - 6 authors - Last post: 31 Mar 2008Guys, I seem to have a problem, well you see my MagSafe sparks everytime I plug it into a power source. I'm experiencing this problem at ...
www.philmug.ph › ... › Mobile Macs › Archives - Cached - Similar
@apple MagSafe failure sparking all over the place, not recalled ...1 Jan 2011 ... ryanol: @apple MagSafe failure sparking all over the place, not recalled? Not repairable 79 bucks later #applefail another design fail for ...
constantlycomplaining.com/.../@apple-magsafe-failure-sparking-all-over-place,-not-recalled%3F-not-repairable-79-bucks-later- - Cached
Great Northern Insurance Company sues Apple over fire-causing MagSafe2 Dec 2010 ... Over the past few years, Apple has been on the receiving end of more ... indicating that Apple's MagSafe adapters were prone to sparking and ...
www.edibleapple.com/great-northern-insurance-company-sues-apple-over-fire-causing-magsafe-adapter/ - Cached
Amazon.com: Apple MagSafe 60W Power Adapter for MacBook MA538LL/A ...Genuine Apple 60W MagSafe Power Adapter for MacBook A1184 · 3.9 out of 5 stars (11) .... like it was burning.. the covering on the cord melted off.. sparked ...
www.amazon.com › ... › Laptop Battery Chargers - Cached - Similar
Insurance company claims Apple's 'dangerous' MagSafe started fire ...
40 posts - 29 authors - Last post: 30 Nov 2010A newly filed lawsuit claims that Apple's MagSafe charger, ... Apple to heating, burning and sparking problems with its MagSafe adapters," ...
forums.appleinsider.com › Future Apple Hardware - Cached
Spark it up!!! "Apple announces Magsafe out of warranty ...
3 posts - 3 authors - Last post: 19 Aug 2008Info.: "This one concerns faulty Magsafe power adaptors that shipped with MacBook (13-inch Late 2006), MacBook (13-inch), ...
forums.macresource.com/read.php?1,546534,546743 - Cached

Replace iMac power cord

I moved from China and need a new power cord to use in the USA. Where can I get a power chord that works with an early 2008 iMac. Online some seem to say I can use any generic cord, while others say that I need an apple replacement? I'm willing to get the real cord if needed but can't seem to find it. I can find cords for later and earlier models but not mine !
Help, please!

Just read this:
In UK, the same lead is used for electric kettles.
That's actually false, and if used the other way around actually dangerous.
First some terminology:
C13: the (male) connector on the cable side of a computer power cable
C14: the (female) connector on your computer
C15: the (male) connector on the cable for your water kettle
C16: the (female) connector on your water kettle
The relevant standard is IEC 60320.
I have to to warn against trying to use a C13 cable in a C16 socket. The C13 cable is NOT resistant the the high temperatures these devices use. The C16 socket prevents the C13 plug from being inserted in normal use, but some "clever" - not so clever if it goes wrong - modification might allow it in and might well cause serious problems such as a connector melting and shorting out as a result.
Using the C15 cable in a C14 equipped device is safe, no worries. Just don't use the computer cable for your water kettle.

Macbook pro power cord frayed and not charging

Ive just noticed I have the same power cord problem. I plugged in the cord into my macbook and noticed that the light did not turn on. Upon closer inspection I noticed the wire was frayed and was real hot. I have not moved my power adapter or have had something happen for it to be that bad. Im not sure if Im still under my 1 year warranty plan thing, but I was wondering if I took it into the apple store they would still replace it. So if anyone has been in this situation and knows the best option, besides spending the 80 bucks for a new one I would greatly appreciate it.

Hope you feel better.
I assume the OP bought it there and can certainly go back under the 1 year and show them another melted one as there have been enough melted ones for them to know this is a bit of a problem. He can call Applecare as well of course.
Message was edited by: Host

Unusable power cord

So the power cord that came with the MacBook Pro that I've had for... a little over a year now, I think, can no longer be used. It's one of the regular Mag-safe ones, and the two outermost metal prong things inside the plug end (the end that goes into the laptop) have receded into the plug. At first it was just one, and I could still get power from it if I wiggled it around and pleaded with it a little, but with two not making contact, it won't do anything. Fortunately, I have a backup cord, but it's an older one that was already suffering from the eventual melting down near the power brick, so I don't know how much longer this one will last either.
Should I contact Apple about this, and see if I can get a replacement? I've never even heard of this happening with a power cord, and it's not that old.

Definitely contact Apple.

Compaq 510 touchpad - gets disabled when power cord is disconnected. i.e. in battery mode

compaq 510 touchpad & keyboard - gets disabled & is not working.This happens only when power cord is disconnected from the mains.i.e. in battery mode.External USB mouse works fine.Updated & tried re-installing drivers, but still the problem exists.Please suggest a solution.!!!

Hi,
Schindi285460 wrote:
My Pavilion zd 7379ea will only start up in battery mode. AC adapter appears OK with a firm green LED, so external power supply may not be the issue here? When I'm starting up (with what's left on the battery), both the charging LED and the AC LED are constantly blinking. When turned off, the battery LED is firm, and battery appears to be charging (but which obviously is not the case). Occasionally, when computer is turned off, the AC LED is lit with a firm light.
One odd thing I noted before this happened was that the computer ran on AC only when my HP printer was connected to one of the USB ports (no battery inserted). If I disconnected the printer USB cord, the computer just died immediately; it was like the computer was powered by the printer. Later I also discovered that the same cord (where it connected to the printer) had melted from extreme overheating. I tried to update the USB drivers for each port but it didn't change things. I also tried to connect a different printer to get the computer started but it didn't work this time. I'd be extremely grateful for any comments that may solve this power supply issue (and if possible explain the stuff with the printer connection).
S/N{removed for privacy]; P/N PH989EA#AK8
You unplugged a USB device while the notebook was still booted into Windows and on?
Normally that won't cause any issues but , If you did that you may have damaged your system board's Southport chip.
USB is not a plug n' play port like SATA and eSATA are.
Here is a link to the maintenence manual for your laptop series.
Is your notebook still within warranty? By the processor components listed in the manual,I believe it is probably not.
best regards,
erico
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

DC power cord for T60 power adapter 92P1109

Does anyone know where I can purchase a DC power cord for my T60 AC/DC power adapter (92P1109}? I have lost mine and do not want to purchase a completely new adapter. Thanks.

The part numbers for the power cord itself can be found here. You might be able to find that FRU for purchase online, but the easiest way is to call IBM Spare parts. Info about that is here.
Tim Supples
Lenovo Social Media
Got a question? Don't PM me, post it on the forum!
Lenovo Blogs
X60 Tablet SXGA+ primary, Z61p fully loaded workhorse

Today my power cord burned my arm.

I have had trouble in the past with my power cord over heating. I have already had to replace one cord because it reached such high temperatures that it melted the metal rods inside the head of the cord.
The vents on my macbook are never blocked and I use it on a clean level surface most of the time.
Today I noticed the head of my cord was hot so I removed it to wait for it to cool down. When I put my arms down to continue using my computer my forearm brushed the head of the cord and I was immediately burned, leaving a nice big red line the width of the connection point. Normal opperating temperature should not be more than 80 degrees, yet I was instantly burned. Once I inspected the cord closely I noticed that once again is had burned the pins in the head of the cord and had melted plastic around the metal rim.
This seems to be a problem with the design of the power cord. Is there any way around melting my macbook with these faulty cords?
Also, the power input on my computer is heavily burned and I fear that every time the cord over heats it's creating a worse and worse connection to my computer. This is turn will lead to more overheating.

Replace the power cord immediately. While I haven't experienced the same heating issues you have, an overheating power adapter is a sign that something is wrong with the adapter, and very possibly has sustained some kind of damage you might not be aware of.
It seems that the power input may be an issue, as well. At the very least, visit an Apple Store so someone at the Genius Bar can take a look at your setup.

Does a Laptop Warranty Cover the Power Cord?

Hi, I bought a HP Envy Touchsmart 15 and it is still covered by warranty. However, I cannot find any support help online such as the support chat which I find very odd since I just used it about a month ago when my battery died! Where did all the support go?
Anyways, when I plug in my laptop, the LED by the power port does not come on, and my laptop will not charge or turn on at all. My battery is dead, but I know it works becasue it is less than a month old. Since my laptop will not run on AC power even with the battery removed, I feel the power cord is the problem.
I would really like to know if my warranty covers the power cord, and if so how do I contact HP, since there is absolutley no information when I go to "Contact Us" besides the consumer forums.
I am a ECE student at UT in Austin, and every day I go without a laptop is hurting my grades. So I need help ASAP

Hi
Yes, power cord, adapter are covered under limited warranty. HP would replace it for you if it's faulty.
Check warranty: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/weInput?cc=us&lc=en
These are what I could find to help you:
Contact HP: http://h22207.www2.hp.com/us-en/contact-hp
Contact HP in Texas:
http://m.hp.com/us/en/store-finder/find.do?type=authorized&searchType=LOCALAREA&displayedAddress=787...
Regards
Visruth
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**I'm a Volunteer, I do not work for HP**

I need a new power cord for my Mac book Pro its the T type mag connector. I don't need a Tech just a new cord. How do I buy one. The closest Aplle store is 75 miles away and I do not drive.

I need a new power cord for my Mac book Pro its the T type mag connector. I don't need a Tech just a new cord. How do I buy one. The closest Aplle store is 75 miles away and I do not drive.

Are you in the US? Order one from here: http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shop_mac/mac_accessories/power?mco=MTM3NjU xNDg
Or check out Best Buy.

After reading and resetting everything with Keyboard I still get blank white screen. The only way I can boot to Mavericks is unplug power cord, push and hold power button while plugging power cord in. Fans at full speed.

After reading and resetting everything with Keyboard I still get blank white screen on 2nd? page of boot. The only way I can boot to Mavericks is unplug power cord, push and hold power button while plugging power cord in. Fans run at full speed, machine boots then runs normal except the dvdrw will not . The mid 2011 IMAC had the same problem with LION. I changed hard drives, formatted, and installed a clean install of latest os x mavericks. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
EtreCheck version: 1.9.15 (52)
Report generated August 30, 2014 at 6:56:41 PM EDT
Hardware Information: ?
    iMac (21.5-inch, Mid 2011) (Verified)
    iMac - model: iMac12,1
    1 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 4 cores
    4 GB RAM
Video Information: ?
    AMD Radeon HD 6750M - VRAM: 512 MB
        iMac 1920 x 1080
System Software: ?
    OS X 10.9.4 (13E28) - Uptime: 0 days 0:16:53
Disk Information: ?
    ST3120026AS disk0 : (120.03 GB)
    S.M.A.R.T. Status: Verified
        EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
        Untitled (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 119.17 GB (87.12 GB free)
        Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
    HL-DT-STDVDRW GA32N
USB Information: ?
    Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
    CHICONY USB NetVista Full Width Keyboard
    Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
        Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
    Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
    Apple Internal Memory Card Reader
Thunderbolt Information: ?
    Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper: ?
    Anywhere
Kernel Extensions: ?
    [loaded]    com.nvidia.CUDA (1.1.0) Support
    [loaded]    com.sophos.kext.sav (9.0.61 - SDK 10.7) Support
    [loaded]    com.sophos.nke.swi (9.0.53 - SDK 10.8) Support
Startup Items: ?
    CUDA: Path: /System/Library/StartupItems/CUDA
    FanControlDaemon: Path: /Library/StartupItems/FanControlDaemon
Launch Daemons: ?
    [loaded]    com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
    [running]    com.arcsoft.eservutil.plist Support
    [running]    com.bjango.istatmenusdaemon.plist Support
    [loaded]    com.oracle.java.Helper-Tool.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.autoupdate.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.configuration.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.intercheck.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.notification.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.scan.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.sxld.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.webd.plist Support
Launch Agents: ?
    [running]    com.arcsoft.esinter.plist Support
    [running]    com.bjango.istatmenusagent.plist Support
    [loaded]    com.nvidia.CUDASoftwareUpdate.plist Support
    [loaded]    com.oracle.java.Java-Updater.plist Support
    [running]    com.sophos.uiserver.plist Support
User Login Items: ?
    Macs Fan Control
    Firefox
Internet Plug-ins: ?
    FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 14.0.0.176 - SDK 10.6 Support
    Flash Player: Version: 14.0.0.176 - SDK 10.6 Support
    QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
    JavaAppletPlugin: Version: Java 7 Update 67 Check version
    Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
Audio Plug-ins: ?
    BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
    AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
    AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
    iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
iTunes Plug-ins: ?
    Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
3rd Party Preference Panes: ?
    CUDA Preferences Support
    Fan Control Support
    Flash Player Support
    Java Support
Time Machine: ?
    Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ?
         1%    WindowServer
         1%    fontd
         0%    firefox
         0%    SystemUIServer
         0%    SophosWebIntelligence
Top Processes by Memory: ?
    229 MB    firefox
    156 MB    SophosScanD
    152 MB    InterCheck
    131 MB    com.apple.IconServicesAgent
    115 MB    SophosAntiVirus
Virtual Memory Information: ?
    424 MB    Free RAM
    1.53 GB    Active RAM
    1.37 GB    Inactive RAM
    699 MB    Wired RAM
    1.26 GB    Page-ins
    0 B    Page-outs

I'd start by getting rid of the following software responsible for these extensions.
Kernel Extensions: ?
    [loaded]    com.nvidia.CUDA (1.1.0) Support
    [loaded]    com.sophos.kext.sav (9.0.61 - SDK 10.7) Support
    [loaded]    com.sophos.nke.swi (9.0.53 - SDK 10.8) Support
Startup Items: ?
    CUDA: Path: /System/Library/StartupItems/CUDA
    FanControlDaemon: Path: /Library/StartupItems/FanControlDaemon
Use the uninstaller provided with the Sophos software. You can uninstall CUDA via the preference pane. Be sure you remove the com.nvidia.CUDA extension which is located in the /System/Library/Extensions/ folder. Not sure if Fan Control has an uninstaller so you will have to do it manually:
Uninstalling Software: The Basics
Most OS X applications are completely self-contained "packages" that can be uninstalled by simply dragging the application to the Trash. Applications may create preference files that are stored in the /Home/Library/Preferences/ folder. Although they do nothing once you delete the associated application, they do take up some disk space. If you want you can look for them in the above location and delete them, too.
Some applications may install an uninstaller program that can be used to remove the application. In some cases the uninstaller may be part of the application's installer, and is invoked by clicking on a Customize button that will appear during the install process.
Some applications may install components in the /Home/Library/Applications Support/ folder. You can also check there to see if the application has created a folder. You can also delete the folder that's in the Applications Support folder. Again, they don't do anything but take up disk space once the application is trashed.
Some applications may install a startupitem or a Log In item. Startupitems are usually installed in the /Library/StartupItems/ folder and less often in the /Home/Library/StartupItems/ folder. Log In Items are set in the Accounts preferences. Open System Preferences, click on the Accounts icon, then click on the LogIn Items tab. Locate the item in the list for the application you want to remove and click on the "-" button to delete it from the list.
Some software use startup daemons or agents that are a new feature of the OS. Look for them in /Library/LaunchAgents/ and /Library/LaunchDaemons/ or in /Home/Library/LaunchAgents/.
If an application installs any other files the best way to track them down is to do a Finder search using the application name or the developer name as the search term. Unfortunately Spotlight will not look in certain folders by default. You can modify Spotlight's behavior or use a third-party search utility, EasyFind, instead.
Some applications install a receipt in the /Library/Receipts/ folder. Usually with the same name as the program or the developer. The item generally has a ".pkg" extension. Be sure you also delete this item as some programs use it to determine if it's already installed.
There are many utilities that can uninstall applications. Here is a selection:
    1. AppZapper
    2. AppDelete
    3. Automaton
    4. Hazel
    5. AppCleaner
    6. CleanApp
    7. iTrash
    8. Amnesia
    9. Uninstaller
10. Spring Cleaning
For more information visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on removing software.
Be sure to remove your two Login Items. Finally do this:
Reinstall Lion, Mountain Lion, or Mavericks without erasing drive
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported then click on the Repair Permissions button. When the process is completed, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion, Mountain Lion, or Mavericks
OS X Mavericks- Reinstall OS X
OS X Mountain Lion- Reinstall OS X
OS X Lion- Reinstall Mac OS X
     Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet
                 if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.

HT201897 Does a Mac Mini purchased in the USA require a power converter for operation in Europe or should I only purchase a different power cord for it?

Does a Mac Mini purchased in the USA require a power converter to operate outside of the USA or can I simply purchase a different power cord for it?

Depending on which European country (should their mains access plug/port shape vary) the
cord set with correct ends on it has to match. You can buy a cord that plugs into the Mini
where the factory cord goes, and the other end has one for the wall source shape. The wire
for the application should be able to support 110~240VAC.
With the cord or an accurate image in hand, you could either get a new cable to match both
realities (mini + wall supply mains local) or an adapter (US/Standard to EU/Local) for just
the head or input part of the original Apple cable. One plugs into the other, then into wall.
If you have a new Mini with a small modular plug/port on the computer end of the power wire,
it would have only two holes and no ground; the other end would have two prongs of equal
shape and size. Not a polarized plug and not a grounded three-prong. To get a replacement
power wire for the MINI to go from power source to the Mini is recommended, if you are going
to be staying in one location for awhile. A Travel Kit that offers no electrical conversion but only
the physical shape adapter kit, should a available in travel stores, airports; big box discount
stores, computer and electronic stores. This page shows the cord end of the appliance shapes.
The other end would be the mains shape for whichever country you are going to....
http://www.signalandpower.com/European-Power-Cords/
So to match the country or regional power mains type is a primary concern for obtaining the
correct replacement cord to supply the Mini with local mains power. The end which plugs into
the Mini is of a certain type (numbers for EU and elsewhere are published, see link + images)
& the end that gets plugged into the mains or utility side, needs to match the local specification.
The link to Apple, to contact for Support and Service information in prior post, should be able
to help find a source for the local replacement type cord they'd sell local people with a Mini.
Apple local sources offer replacements for this purpose; and for travelers, a second cord for
a direct use (not adapter plugs) is a better bet. For those who only need a cord in two places.
If you are traveling to Denmark, UK, Swiss or other EU countries require different adapters.
Even places where the power itself may be somewhat similar. However your MINI has an
automatic power supply that will conform to that energy standard, you only need to supply a
correct non-transforming adapter. Simply a connection to adapt one shape to another.
The general purpose travel kit that is not specialized to Apple power adapters, would have a
plastic plug/adapter with the local pins on one side, and the US/standard two slots on the other.
So, no circuitry nor any other change of electrical power inside this device would be required.
http://www.signalandpower.com/2-Prong-Plug-Adapters/
http://www.signalandpower.com/Convert-to-Europe-CEE-716-plug/
http://www.signalandpower.com/Swiss-AC-Power-Cords/
In other words, I believe my other post already covered this. On the ground on either end of the
path, adapters are common and the Mini does not use proprietary electrical components IF you
have one of the more recent shape aluminum models with the power supply built in. The older
Mini has the power brick and two wires. A US/Standard plug adapter to EU/Local would work in
either case, since all you'd do is plug the adapter plug into the local mains and the US plug into
that one... I see these kinds of discards for as little as 25¢ in thrift stores in Alaska. Or you can
buy a new one. Or you could get a complete cord with correct ends on it, for Mini + local mains.
Hopefully this helps somewhat. The only info missing is which EU country or region is involved.
Their shapes of plug are different, so the adapter end for local supply has to match their standard.
Swiss, Denmark, UK, and others offer different shapes and so on.
The Apple store in the location you are traveling should be able to supply you with a replacement
cable for a modern MINI, that has the correct local mains end, and the correct Apple mini end on
the opposite. Since the unit is automatically switching, the magic is done.
Since I supplied a means to locate any number of Apple stores, authorized service providers &
other Apple related vendors in my earlier reply: https://locate.apple.com/country you could contact
any of them along your route in the City in whichever EU country, to find a local MINI power cable.
In any event, I'm done...
Good luck and happy trails...

Since the iOS7.0.2 update to my iPhone 4S, I can no longer choose use of my Bluetooth device if using the power cord to listen to MUSIC or answer my phone (choice of powercord as 'dock,' speaker,

Since the iOS7.0.2 update to my iPhone 4S, I can no longer choose use of my Bluetooth device if using the power cord to listen to MUSIC or answer my phone (choice of powercord as 'dock,' speaker, & phone only). Was this former-feature now an oversight?? I'd really appreciate having my Bluetooth once again listed as a choice of audio option. Especially considering the battery life is not what it was prior to this update, and requires recharging often.

Sorry to tell you but unless you have a Retail Apple Store close by, they are the only ones I have found with all the adapters and accessories. I bought an extra lightning to usb adapter the other day to use in my truck. Good luck....

My Macbook pro keeps shutting down right after I log in. The power cord seems to be fine, so I think the computer has enough power. Right after logging in, it shows a grey background with a loading bar that loads only 1/4. Then it shuts down.

I have had my Macbook Pro since 2011 and it has been great until now. Suddenly, I can no longer get past the grey screen just after I log in. The grey screen appears with a loading bar, and the bar get 1/4 of the way complete, then the computer shuts off. My power cord seems to be working fine because this problem still occurred after using another power cord (from another Macbook). Keyboard does not light up, and the small green lights on the left side of the computer do not light up (this is an older version and these light indicate how charged the computer is). It is using the OS X Yosemite and recently had total clearing of the hard drive as it was transferring from one owner to another, so the hard drive isn't nearly full enough to be causing this problem. I've never run into this problem before with other Macbooks.
Help!

Hi. When you were in the recovery drive doing permissions, did you try and run a repair of the boot drive? Did you try single user mode? Try these first and then go back and try to reinstall the operating system.When I say repair boot drive I don't mean permissions. There are both options in disk utilities.When you open disk utilities ,you will see in the left column two drives plus possibly a boot partition that look like an external driv. click on the second drive and in first aid use repair disk. If you still can't boot and it will not let you restore, you may have to do a clean install. http://support.apple.com/kb/PH18869?viewlocale=en_US

X60 power cord melting

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