XMP questions and more switching from LR questions too.

Hey all,
I recently downloaded the trial version of Aperture 3, as I'm thinking about switching from Lightroom 2. I do have a couple questions about XMP data though.
I understand that if I switch over my library to Aperture, I will lose all edits I currently have in LR because that information is subjective to Adobe dialog and so on. That's not a big deal, as I could just start new with Aperture while still keeping my old LR catalogs.
What I don't understand is if it's true that you can't save out edited XMP data? I work for a color-correction company, and we typically save out XMPs to send back to our clients. It appears that the only XMP data Aperture saves is core data, such as date, time, et cetera, but no adjustments. Sometimes I'll work on a photo, and, if I'm not liking my result, then send the original to a friend to see how they edit it. They will send their XMP back to me, and that way it's easy to compare and make small adjustments without having to work off a jpeg. XMP support would be the one huge thing that might be a dealbreaker.
Some thing I miss in Lightroom are before/after view mode, the ability to see my history and take snapshots (and easily revert to the original), and the ability to see what channels were clipping in my histogram.
The last question is speed. Most of the articles I've read have pointed out speed as a big jump of Aperture over LR. While I've definitely had my share of slow LR, Aperture doesn't seem to be significantly faster, if it is at all. I'm working on a MBP with 4GB of RAM and 40 free GBs on a 160GB HD...any ideas?
All feedback is much appreciated!

I had sidecar XMP files with my Lightroom masters. Everything worked perfectly when I imported my images into Aperture 3. I would like to use both applications as I really love the map in Aperture 3, but I cannot embed the geotag information into the image, and if I want this information to be read by both applications, I use Geotagger, or Geophoto which can embed the image into the file, and that will be read by both Lightroom and Aperture immediately.
I was really pleased when I found that Aperture 3 read all the other metadata correctly!

Similar Messages

I have iWeb '08 and just switched from Mobileme to GoDaddy and using Filezilla. Now when I make changes through iWeb it doesn't actually publish to my desktop folder. In fact, it doesn't publish at all but says that it did.

I have iWeb '08 and just switched from Mobileme to GoDaddy and using Filezilla. I also just upgraded to Lion. Now when I make changes through iWeb it doesn't actually publish to my desktop folder. In fact, it doesn't publish at all but says that it did. How can I make changes in iWeb and publish to a folder?

Choose the destination in the publish settings page as shown in the second example on this page...
http://www.iwebformusicians.com/iWeb/Publish-Website.html

I lost all the information in the ical. I am using icloud and info desapear from ical and several times from my agenda too. But I desperately need the info from my ical. I tried using the time machine but i received a messagem saying that they can not mod

I am using icloud and info desapear from ical and several times from my agenda too.
But I desperately need the info from my ical.
I tried using the time machine but i received a messagem saying that they can not modify ical.
Can somebody help me?

First of all, we are not Adobe. This is a user to user forum. We are consumers just like you. And I have arthritis, too, although not severe.
Now let's see if we can help you resolve your problem.
Where was it purchased from?
Was it downloaded or was a disc purchased?
What is your operating system?
Is it version Photoshop Elements 13?
Did you use a redemption code to get a serial number?
Did you sign in/activate?
Did you create an Adobe account?

Updating from LR3 to LR5 and future switch from PC to MAC.

Hi, I currently have LR3 and am going to buy a new student version of LR5 (so not an upgrade). Is there anything I should know about transferring over my catalogs? When is it safe to delete the LR3 version so I don't lose any catalogs from LR3?
Also, I currently use a PC but in the future, I want to switch to a MAC. It's my understanding that if I purchase LR5 now, I can download to 2 computers. Do these downloads expire? If I download now to my PC now, can I then use the 2nd download for a MAC in say, a year?

As far as transferring catalogs goes, your best bet for getting answers is probably to ask in the Lightroom forum (http://forums.adobe.com/community/lightroom). Folks there are more like to have recent hands on knowledge of catalog matters.
The downloads do not expire though they might not always be readily available from the Adobe site (there is an alternative site). Currently, however, Lightroom is one of the few applications which Adobe does retain links to download older versions.
You can download to any number of machines, but you are only allowed to have the software activated on two machines. You can deactivate and activate as you need to, so if in a year you want to, you can install and activate on another machine.

Switches and more Switches

I'm currently configuring a mass of new switches, and instead of doing them one by one, I was hoping someone has a better/faster solution. I have config files to use, and a laptop. Kind of limited on tools. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

You might want to look at something like "WINBATCH" or "expect" scripting.
The main issue, as pointed out in the first response, its that you need console connectivity to begin with, then you can either blow the rest of the config in through Ethernet, or set up a TFTP server with a default image and load 'em up from there.
You may want to do 'em in batches: first set the addresses up either manually or through a scripting progran (we read the configs from an Excel spreadsheet) to set up the common portions of tehe config, then blow in the config differences in a separate script/process.
The other upside to doing that is you can have some spares with the base config, then if you need to replace a switch later, you only need to add the "delta" config.
If you have a term server around, and are pretty clever with scritping (or the program (free) "expect") you could do a batch of 8, 16, or 32 at a time.
You may also be able to use some of the scripting facilities of CiscoWorks if you are using that.
Sounds like fun. We had to do a batch of 3000 Chipcom switches once. From that, a full-blown staging system was developed.
Good Luck
Scott

Have airport snow (duel) and have switched from DSL to Cable , problems .

Hi all my problem is that since the switch I now use a Moto surfboard 5101 and the activity light just stays blinking both on the snow and on the modem . If I turn the airport off the activity light on the modem stops , plug in the airport and it starts blinking . I can get on the net but this bothers me as it didn't do this when I had DSL with a westell modem . I have uploaded the default software to the airport and that did nothing . There are no other computers using or even turned on . The laptop is turned off and still the activity lights on both are blinking like crazy . Also there is no one leaching my wifi , this all started when I installed the cable modem . Has anyone had this experience ?

It's always a good idea to do a complete power-recycle of all of your network components when making changes.
Try the following, in order, checking for Internet access after each step, or until resolved:
1. If the modem has a reset switch, use it to reset the modem. Wait at least 5-10 minutes for the modem to initialize.
2. Remove power from the modem. If it has a backup battery, remove this as well. Wait 5-10 minutes. Replace the battery, and add power back to the modem.
3. Perform a complete power recycle of your network components as follows:
Modem/Router Power Recycling - Quick
o Power-off the modem, AirPort Base Station (ABS), & computer(s); Wait at least 5 minutes.
o Power-on the modem; Wait at least 5 minutes.
o Power-on the ABS; Wait at least 5 minutes.
o Power-on the computer(s)
If this fails to get the modem to "recognize" the Internet router, then try the "Full" version.
Modem/Router Power ReCycling - Full
o Power-off the modem, ABS, & computer(s). (Wait at least 30 minutes. If possible, leave the modem off overnight.)
o Power-on the modem; Wait at least 15 minutes.
o Power-on the ABS; Wait at least 5 minutes.
o Power-on the computer(s)
4. Contact your ISP to have them perform a "modem reset."

Ios 6, my wifi doesnt work, even after switching wifi on and off, aswell as removing saved wifi spots and switching from manual to auto

ios 6, my wifi doesnt work
even after switching wifi on and off
as well as removing saved wifi spots
and tried switching from manual to auto
it works intermittently after these changes are made, but still shuts off.
i have ios 6 on both the iPhone 4 & the Iphone 5.
my router at home is D-Link router
please help!

You have the same problem in two mobiles? Uou....
I have had used D Link router before, and I faced problems to connect my computer.
Now I bought Netgear, and it shows strongly better than the f.... D Link...
Try:
Settings>>WiFi, and then turn off Ask for Conection;
Or:
Settings>>Privacity, be sure the Location Service is turn on;
Or:
In Settings>>General>>Reset, select "Reset all Adjusts". (Sorry, but it will change some personal adjustments, but will not delete anything at all)

Server not found when switching from 4g to wifi and vice versa.

I've had this issue for a while across multiple phones and multiple versions of Firefox for Android, and it does not happen with any other browser (which is upsetting). Whenever I am surfing the web and have multiple tabs open, and I switch from 4g to wifi or vice versa, I always get a "Server not found" error on both existing tabs and new tabs. This is an annoying issue that I am surprised to see hasn't been fixed. The only way I've been able to fix it is to quit and relaunch the app. I have tried removing plug-ins and reinstalling, but it has not helped.
Anything I could do to alleviate the issue?
LG G2 and Samsung Galaxy Note 3. Both on Android 4.4.2
Firefox for Android Ver. 35.0.1

''Roland Tanglao [[#answer-698502|said]]''
<blockquote>
Hi scruffy90:
You wrote "LG G2 and Samsung Galaxy Note 3. Both on Android 4.4.2 Firefox for Android Ver. 35.0.1 "
I just tried switching between HSPA+ aka 3G and WiFi on a Galaxy S5 running Android 5 and have had no issues but I think this may have been an issue in the past (I did a search for a bug in bugzilla.mozilla.org but couldn't find anything).
Are there any other details you could provide that could help us debug?
e.g.
# Are you using a proxy?
# Who is your WiFi provider?
# Have you tried other WiFi (e.g. the Wifi both at home and work)
Cheers!
...Roland
</blockquote>
Hello Roland,
No proxy on the phone or wi-fi network.
My ISP is Time Warner, but I supply my own router (Linksys e4200)
And this happens on every wi-fi network, at home and away from home.

IPod classic - switching from Windows to Mac

I have an iPod classic and am switching from Windows to Mac - what's the best way to retain my iPod library? Thanks!

If you just want to connect and use the iPod on the Mac then set it to manual update on your PC first. The content of iTunes and the iPod are not syncronised in this mode so the two can be different. You can directly access the content of the iPod and play it through iTunes and you can drag and drop whatever you want to the iPod from either library:
Using iPod with Multiple computers
Managing content manually on iPod and iPhone
Syncing Music to iPod
Something else to be aware of when using an iPod in manual mode is that the "Do Not Disconnect" message will remain on the display until you physically eject the device: Safely Disconnect IPod
Macs can read Windows drives, the iPod shuffle for instance comes Windows formatted and is fully supported (you can update the firmware or restore it on the Mac and it retains it's Windows formatting). Other iPods (such as a 5th Generation or Classic for example) can be used in Windows format on a Mac but have to have the firmware updated or be restored on a PC to maintain the formatting. If however you don't intend using the iPod on a PC again you'll need to transfer your library from your PC so you can restore and reformat the iPod and keep it's firmware updated.
Once you are safely connected there are a few things you can do to restore your new iTunes directly from the iPod. If you have any iTunes Music Store purchases the transfer of purchased content from the iPod to authorised computers was introduced with iTunes 7. You'll find details in this article: Copying iTunes Store purchases from your iPod or iPhone to a computer
The transfer of content from sources such as songs imported from CD is designed by default to be one way from iTunes to iPod. However there are a number of third party utilities that you can use to retrieve music files and playlists from your iPod. I use Senuti but have a look at the web pages and documentation for the others too, you'll find that they have varying degrees of functionality and some will transfer movies, videos, photos and games as well. This is just a small selection of what's available, you can read reviews and comparisons of some of them here:
Wired News - Rescue Your Stranded Tunes
Comparison of iPod managers
Senuti Mac Only (Currently only the beta version is iPod Touch & iPhone compatible)
PodView Mac Only
PodWorks Mac Only
iPodDisk PPC Mac Only (experimental version available for Intel Macs)
TuneAid Mac only (iPhone and iPod Touch compatible)
iPodRip Mac & Windows
YamiPod Mac & Windows
Music Rescue Mac & Windows
iPod Music Liberator Mac & Windows
iGadget Mac & Windows (iPhone and iPod Touch compatible)
Floola Mac & Windows
iRepo Mac & Windows (iPhone and iPod Touch compatible)
iPod Access Mac & Windows (iPhone and iPod Touch compatible)
TouchCopy Mac & Windows (iPhone and iPod Touch compatible)
There's also a manual method of copying songs from your iPod to a Mac or PC. The procedure is a bit involved and won't recover playlists but if you're interested it's available on page 2 at this link: Copying Content from your iPod to your Computer - The Definitive Guide

Switched from American iTunes to UK iTunes

So I just moved to England, to attend university, and I switched from my American account to a British account. All of my purchased songs have vanished, and there are a bunch of albums I need back. Does anyone know what to do?

Vanished?
You did not save them to your computer?
You cannot download U.S. Purchases from another country

Can't access PIX 501 after switch from dsl to cable

Hi--
I have two small offices and recently switched from dsl to cable internet. the two pix501 f/w units worked fine on dsl, but for the life of me I cannot even access the units now from the inside as I was able to do before when on dsl signal. I know I need to change the configuration from PPPoe to DHCP, but I can't get access to do it.
Any suggestions?
I believe I have 6.2 software, but I'm not sure. The Inside address is 10.8.6.1 now.
thanks--jb

Jorge--
I did have the Pix connected to router, 192 168.1.1 for convenience, so I could still get internet wirelessly without having to do lots of wire unplugging and plugging.
I have since changed to topology of comcast modem connected directly to pix which in turn connects directly to laptop.
In this configuration, laptop pings 10.8.6.1 ok, but pix has no connectivity to comcast.
When laptop connected directly to comcast modem,(ie pix removed) the ipconfig /all from laptop reads the following from comcast:
ip 71.192.7.130
mask 255.255.252.0
DG 72.192.11.1
DHCP server 68 87 71 52
DNS 68 87 71 226 and 68 87 73 242
Response to pix# show route | inc 0.0.0.0 is nothing.
For reference, here is show run
pixMDC# show run
: Saved
PIX Version 6.3(5)
interface ethernet0 auto
interface ethernet1 100full
nameif ethernet0 outside security0
nameif ethernet1 inside security100
enable password PVSASRJovmamnVkD encrypted
passwd PVSASRJovmamnVkD encrypted
hostname pixMDC
domain-name keene.com
fixup protocol dns maximum-length 512
fixup protocol ftp 21
fixup protocol h323 h225 1720
fixup protocol h323 ras 1718-1719
fixup protocol http 80
fixup protocol rsh 514
fixup protocol rtsp 554
fixup protocol sip 5060
fixup protocol sip udp 5060
fixup protocol skinny 2000
fixup protocol smtp 25
fixup protocol sqlnet 1521
fixup protocol tftp 69
names
access-list outside_access_in permit icmp any any echo-reply
access-list outside_access_in permit icmp any any source-quench
access-list outside_access_in permit icmp any any unreachable
access-list outside_access_in permit icmp any any time-exceeded
pager lines 24
mtu outside 1500
mtu inside 1500
ip address outside dhcp setroute
ip address inside 10.8.6.1 255.255.255.0
ip audit info action alarm
ip audit attack action alarm
pdm location 10.0.0.0 255.0.0.0 inside
pdm logging informational 100
pdm history enable
arp timeout 14400
global (outside) 1 interface
nat (inside) 1 10.8.6.0 255.255.255.0 0 0
access-group outside_access_in in interface outside
timeout xlate 0:05:00
timeout conn 1:00:00 half-closed 0:10:00 udp 0:02:00 rpc 0:10:00 h225 1:00:00
timeout h323 0:05:00 mgcp 0:05:00 sip 0:30:00 sip_media 0:02:00
timeout sip-disconnect 0:02:00 sip-invite 0:03:00
timeout uauth 0:05:00 absolute
aaa-server TACACS+ protocol tacacs+
aaa-server TACACS+ max-failed-attempts 3
aaa-server TACACS+ deadtime 10
aaa-server RADIUS protocol radius
aaa-server RADIUS max-failed-attempts 3
aaa-server RADIUS deadtime 10
aaa-server LOCAL protocol local
http server enable
http 10.0.0.0 255.0.0.0 inside
http 10.8.6.0 255.255.255.0 inside
no snmp-server location
no snmp-server contact
snmp-server community public
no snmp-server enable traps
floodguard enable
telnet 10.8.6.0 255.255.255.0 inside
telnet timeout 5
ssh timeout 5
console timeout 0
dhcpd address 10.8.6.2-10.8.6.33 inside
dhcpd dns 151.203.0.84 151.202.0.84
dhcpd lease 3600
dhcpd ping_timeout 750
dhcpd auto_config outside
vpnclient server 10.8.6.0 10.0.0.0
vpnclient mode client-mode
vpnclient vpngroup fnd password ********
vpnclient username fnd password ********
vpnclient enable
terminal width 80
Cryptochecksum:6ca15e834dc867c6f12b46b2bd28a4a8
: end
pixMDC#
pixMDC#
pixMDC#
pixMDC# ping 71.192.7.130
No route to host 71.192.7.130.
Usage: ping [if_name]
pixMDC#
It appears that the pix is not seeing the comcast dhcp signal and latching onto it.
Thanks,
Jeffrey

Why my mac book air warms up more and more often, more and more hot

Why my mac book air warms up more and more often,and more and more hot

I have this problem too when I use heavy applications like big intense games. When you use this, a lot of memory and CPU space is taken up. This causes the fan to spaz out. The fan tries to cool it off, which in turn makes an awkward loud noise. If it makes noise/and/or gets loud, go to "Activity Moniter" and see if anything is taking up a large amount of CPU %. If anything is 30%-70%, that a lot. Earlier, I transfered 2,400 pictures from my iPod to my Air, and it went crazy. Within like 3 minutes of it transferring, it got hot. I looked at the CPU %, and it was anywhere from 80%-somehow like 230%. Anything like games or apps or a lot of internet browsers can warm it up. One other huge thing that can cause this is airflow. If you operate it on like a pillow or something soft and/or somewhere with low airflow/circulation, your computer will get hot. So, either use it in your lap or on something like a table, and try not to overwork the computer. If neither of these things help, bring it in to the Apple store. I hope this helped! Good luck!

Question about HP 2311xi - auto-switch source and delay wakeup from sleep

I recently purchased this monitor and noticed that when it wakes from sleep it will take about 5-10 seconds for it to wake whereas other monitors I've owned they have gone on immediately. I was just wondering if this is how this monitor is or if I have an issue with it.
Secondly, how is the auto-switch source suppose to work? I have my PC set to DVI and I have the default source set to my 360 through the HDMI connection. I would assume that when the 360 goes on it would go to the default source and switch over to the hdmi connection. However, my monitor does nothing. What does the auto-switch source actually do or is mine just defective?
Thanks in advance for any help on this monitor.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Auto-switch source only works if there is no signal as it detects the port with a signal and auto switches to that port. However, the monitor has no way of knowing exactly which port the user wants when two signals are present.
Default port setting is what the monitor will look for first when being turned on and doesn't necessarily give that port override capabilities.
Taking 5-10 seconds can be normal. My third-party monitor at home generally takes about 5 seconds before displaying a signal, but this may have more to do with the HDMI connection (I haven't tested this with the VGA port). I don't believe this is a cause for concern.
Let me know if I answered your questions.
↙-----------How do I give Kudos?| How do I mark a post as Solved? ----------------↓

Firefox 4b7 does not complete «More Answers from-» action on Formspring.me userpages; previous Firefox (3.6) was able to load more questions and answers

Even in safe mode, Firefox 4b7 is not able to complete «More Answers from…» action on Formspring.me userpages, it just displays «loading more questions…» for a seemingly endless amount of time. (Firefox 3.6 and any other browser, such as Safari, displays «loading more questions…» for a short period of time when AJAX works, then the questions and answers are actually loaded and displayed.) In order to reproduce, load Firefox 4b7 in Safe Mode, visit www.formspring.me/krylov and click on «More Answers from Konstantin Krylov» (the bottom link). You may try any other user, www.formspring.me/teotmin or www.formspring.me/anandaya for example.

what a waste of money sending an engineer to "fix a fault" which does not exist. Precisely.
In my original BE post to which Tom so helpfully responded, I began: It seems to me that DLM is an excellent concept with a highly flawed implementation, both technically and administratively. I think that sending out an engineer to fix an obviously flawed profile is the main example of an adminastrative flaw. I understand (I can't remember source, maybe Tom again) that they are sometimes relaxing the requirement for a visit before reset.
Maybe the DLM system is too keen on stability vs speed. This will keep complaints down from many people: most users won't notice speed too much as long as it is reasonable, but will be upset if their Skype calls and browsing are being interrupted too often.
However, it does lead to complaints from people who notice the drops after an incidence (as in your thread that has drawn lots of interest), or who only get 50 instead of 60. The main technical flaw is that DLM can so easily be confused by drops from loss of power, too much modem recycling, etc, and then takes so long to recover.

Switching from FCP7 to CS6! Two BIG questions I can't figure out...

Hello!
So I'm running CS6.01 on my new 27" iMac running OS 10.6.8. I'm excited to be transitioning over to CS6 after the last 6 or 7 years using Final Cut Pro. But I don't have time to mess around as I'm in the middle of projects so here are my 2 main questions right off the bat:
First I should say that I edit AVCHD footage shot from Panasonic HMC150's. I shoot Weddings. About 35-40/year. In FCP, my workflow was...shoot EVERYTHING at 720p60 and TRANSCODE it in FCP to ProRes Proxy. Then I'd CONFORM it to 23.98 (using Cinema Tools which takes all of about 30 seconds to do 400 clips) so that it was all in slow-mo looking smooth and beautiful. Then, I'd drop it all on the timeline and edit. Most clips I need in slow-mo but the ones I don't (eg. the Ceremony) I just speed up 250% and it's full speed. Then at the end of editing I'd batch capture and re-transcode to ProRes 422 and I'm done. It all looks great.
Here's the important thing:
I edit on a 23.98fps timeline that way it maintains a bit of the film-stuttery look instead of the video/soap-opera look of 60fps footage and also it naturally has everything at 40% smooth slow-mo. I dont want that video/soap opera look that I would get if I edited my 60p footage on a 60p timeline! This is important to me.
1) I know with CS6 I don't "have" to transcode, but I can just ingest and edit the AVCHD files natively, right? Well, okay, but if I do that will dropping those 60p clips on a 23.98fps timeline give me the same look I got when I use to conform the footage first? Specifically is it just as smooth to just change the speed of a 60p clip by 40% and drop it on a 24p timeline? And what about the stuff I want at full speed...if I drop that 60p footage right on the timeline and don't speed it up it will be full speed but will it look the same as my conformed footage looked when sped up in FCP? Please elaborate for me.
2) Audio. When I bring in audio clips from my 2 cameras each track has 2 separate audio feeds (eg. 2 wireless mics, a shotgun mic, an internal mic). CS6 brings them in on one track. I read up where I need to "Modify the clips" and adjust the Audio Channels so that there are 2 tracks. Then I'm guessing I just make one track the left track and one the right? This seems to work and makes a separate track that is balanced to the center and has each of the 4 channels as its own separate adjustable track. Am I doing that right? And more importantly...my real question...if I'm scrubbing thru the timeline and I double click on one of the audio tracks to bring up the waveform and edit, sometimes it doesn't come up where I stopped in the timeline. Unless the clips are linked. But don't I have to unlink them to edit them individually? So how do I do this where I can be in the timeline, watching the video and when I hear something I want to adjust, I stop the video and quickly access the individual track (eg. one of the wireless mics) to make the adjustments?
Hope my questions make sense. Thanks SO much in advance for all your help! It took me like 20 minutes to figure out how to post a question but now that I've done it I'm very excited that I've got it out there and hopefully I'll get past my current workflow roadblocks. Thank you!!!!!!!

Jim Simon wrote:
I'd recommend a different work flow. Shoot what you want at full speed in 720p/24. Shoot what you want in slow motion at 720p/60...
I would respectfully disagree with Jim's statement and endorse the OP's technique of shooting at 60 fps for purposes of playback at both normal speed and slow motion at 24 fps.
I think the more creative choices you give yourself in post the better.
Since you (DMH79) are using the same footage for both normal speed and slow motion playback, I think your way is definitely the way to go as long as you are happy with the resolution.
Even if you were not using the same clips at different speeds, I would still disagree with the opinion that you should be able to predict in advance which shots from a hectic live action event such as a wedding you will want to use in slow motion. In fact, I would go so far as to say that it would be impossible, no matter how easy it is to switch modes.
Given that slow motion is a reasonable priority for you, I think there is much less to be gained by shooting at 24 fps for clips that you might use at normal speed than by giving yourself the option of both normal speed and slow motion with a 60 fps recording. (To me the bigger tradeoff is not being able to shoot 1080p at 60 fps, which I think applies to your HMC150.)
I love the look of 24p and will shoot that way for scripted work or if I am absolutely certain that I won't want to use a single shot in slow motion, but for many live events, my preference is to shoot at 720p60, shutter angle 180, for eventual output at 30 fps. I edit in a 60 fps timeline in Premiere, but I export at 30 fps. I find that exporting at 30 fps in combination with the 1/120 shutter speed removes much of the soap opera look (a great description, by the way), but there is no jerkiness in normal speed clips because 30 is exactly half of 60. Media Encoder simply removes every other frame during export. Yet, this allows me to drop any clip to 50% speed and achieve perfectly matched, silky smooth slow motion.
You probably prefer the 40% speed slow motion and added stutter of 24 fps, but regardless, if you do find that controlling the speed via Speed/Duration is equal in quality to conforming, you may want to consider cutting in a 60 fps timeline and giving yourself the option to export at either 24 or 30 fps.
Your last post on this topic was from a few months ago. I also switched from FCP7 and would be very curious to know what you have discovered!

XMP questions and more switching from LR questions too.

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