XP Pro won't load on SATA drives

I have been trying everything I have read on these posts to no avail. The "Single SATA or Multiple Drive Arrays FAQ" didn't work. Nothing else I have seen has worked, nor has anyone posted my exact problem. This is FAR from the first system I have built and I have plenty of experience with things of this nature, so you can understand being pissed when a system is kicking me in the butt so badly. After the last go around this is where I stand, when loading the OS onto the system I hit the F6 key, load the proper drivers, it gets to "Press F8" (to agree), then it shows the drive partitions. I select the "C" drive partition and in the middle of copying the files I get a "PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA" error. No, it's not a memory issue because I have replaced the 2 sticks of OCZ with 1 512 of Kingston JUST on the off chance that was the problem. I still get the same error. Anyone care to take a crack at this?

Well I think the only way to get this thing working is the same method I used on a friends system that is identical to mine. I just burned one at 2am after pulling my hair out all damn day. In other words, I was too stoned to be able to tell what in the F(*&K I did.... but it's running!
As for that last post, no, my copy of XP Pro has SP1 only. I know about the issues with PS2 and am waiting for a solution before I apply that to my rig.
The cool thing is I am able to sit here and play Doom 3 in 1600x1200 and get the full 60FPS! Gotta love spending untold amounts of money to play a $50 game the way the authors intended.

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My MacBook Pro won't load any websites on Safari (except this site, Facebook and Google), Opera, or Mozilla Firefox. I already did the "Reset Safari", restarted the computer half a dozen times, and I can't find this alleged "caches.db" file to delete.

My MacBook Pro won't load any websites on Safari (except this site, Facebook and Google). Opera and Mozilla Firefox won't load any sites whatsoever. I already did the "Reset Safari" several times, restarted the computer half a dozen times, and I can't find this alleged "caches.db" file to delete. I virus scanned the computer with Sophos, Avast, and iAntiVirus and it looks clean.

Is iAntiVirus the best virus protection to use for a MacBook?
The best anti-virus protection is your own common sense, and what you already bought and paid for with your Mac. Third party products such as "iAntiVirus" convey no additional benefit, and as you already determined are very capable of causing trouble.
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "speed up", "clean up", "optimize", or "accelerate" your Mac. Without exception, they will do the opposite.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources. Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iTunes or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose. Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Java can be disabled in System Preferences.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
Block browser popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > and check "Block popup windows":
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but popups have devolved to become a common means to deliver targeted advertising that you probably do not want.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever see a popup indicating it detected registry errors, that your Mac is infected with some ick, or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. To date, most of these attempts have been pathetic and are easily recognized, but that is likely to change in the future as criminals become more clever.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind.

MacBook Pro won't recognize 1TB external drive

Hey team,
My mid-2010 MacBook Pro won't recognize my WD My Passport 1TB drive. I was copying files from the drive to my computer when my computer went to sleep (didn't run out of power, just went to standby mode). Turned computer back on and now it won't recognize the drive.
It is a USB 3.0 cord (computer is only USB 2.0 and the cord works with other drives) and when plugged in, the light turns on and the disk spins but isn't recognized my this or other computers (also not in Disk Utility).
Tried a handful of disk recovery programs but nothing wants to 'see' the disk plugged in.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.

yes yes yes, I warn people about WD drives on this link:
Your dead external hard drive is likely fine! Great hope for your 'faulty' external HD
theReKleiner wrote:
What now?
Only option is to buy the SAME exact HD and swap controller boards, or pay someone a LOT more $$$ to do the same thing.
its not soldered there, its just a controller/ SATA "one piece"
They do that to save 50 cents in mfg. costs.
I mention your "issue" in that link. Which is why you do NOT buy WD ext. HD.
they make the controller board and SATA card one piece.
CURRENT MFG. THAT HAVE controller board and SATA cards as one piece are : WD USB drives, and Toshiba USB Canvio
However Toshiba didnt USED to do that, but they started doing it at the end of 2013.
avoid those 2.
To avoid that nonsense, buy Hitachi drives in USB.
Or, the best option:
Save money and invest in a bare hard drive backup and redundancy plan
Its cheaper
less fuss
more reiable, removes the nasty failure point of SATA card interfaces.
takes up lot less space.
Bare hard drives and docks. The most reliable and cheapest method of hard drive data storage, archives, and redundancies
The best method for your data archives and redundancies, which is also the least expensive, the most reliable, and the most compact option is the purchase of naked hard drives and at least one USB 3.0 HD dock ($40 roughly).
While regarding Time Machine and your Macbook or desktop, your primary backup is best saved to a conventional USB (or Firewire / thunderbolt) hard drive inside an enclosure, the most important part of your data protection begins after your 1st / primary Time Machine / backup; and these are your secondary (most important) data storage devices, archives and their redundancies.
However bare hard drives and docks (below) also work perfectly as a Time Machine backup, this is for home use, since the docking station is certainly not very portable as a notebook Time Machine backup device should be; nor should bare HD be packed around with a notebook, rather remain at home or office.
Six terabytes of 2.5" HD pictured below in a very compact space.
Bare hard drives and docks have the lowest cost, the highest reliability, and take up the smallest storage space
Drawbacks:
1. Care and knowledge in general handling of naked hard drives (how not to shock a bare HD, and how to hold them properly). Not a genuine drawback.
Advantages:
1. By far the least expensive method of mass HD storage on a personal basis. Highest quality naked HD can be purchased in bulk very cheap.
2. Eliminates the horrible failure point of SATA bridges and interfaces between external drives and the computer.
3. Per square foot you can store more terabytes of data this way than any other.
4. Fast, easy, no fuss and most simplex method of data storage on hard drives.

My macbook pro won't load all the way when I start it up.

Lately, my mac book pro has been slow to use, and the colour wheel pops up often. I shut it down earlier today, and now when I try to start it up, it won't load all the way. When I do manage to get to the homescreen, the applications and toolbars won't load. Any ideas what the issue might be and how I can fix it?

It could be a number of issues, Fred.
Have you optimized your photos to no larger than 1000x750 pixels, per the FAQs to the right of this forum? Oversized photos are the chief reason for these types of failures.
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/431851?tstart=0
You also say your videos are MP4s. Are these AVCHD video or are they from a "webbie" camcorder, such as the Flip cam? Flip video uses a proprietary codec that often jams up video editors. This is also covered in our FAQs.
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/437535?tstart=0
Finally, have you ensured that the drive you are saving your video to has adequate free space and is freshly defragmented? You should always have at least 30 gigs of free space on your drive plus 30-50 more for each hour of video you're outputting.
And, if you are exporting to a drive other than your C drive, you should ensure that the drive is formatted NTFS rather than FAT32. FAT32 drives have a file size limit that often chokes video output.

K8N Neo4 Won't boot using sata drive(s)

Hey everyone,
I've got a pc that will only boot when the boot is written on a (P) ATA drive (the ones with the big cables).
The problem is, the old ATA drive went corrupt and we placed a SATA drive in it.
The ATA drive was left in the pc back then without any data on it (not sure why) with windows installed on the SATA disk.
Recently I discovered the ATA disk is not empty, it actually contains the pc's boot files (boot.ini, ntldr and the other thing, I forgot)
The ATA disk being partially corrupt and it being only a matter of time before it won't do anything at all I want those boot files on my Sata drive.
I tried a couple of things that should have worked but they didn't.
Then I decided to reinstall windows only having the sata disk attached.
Everything goes well until the setup has finished copying files to the harddrive and wants to reboot.
When it tries to boot to continue the installation from the hard disk I will once again get the well known 'boot disk error, please insert system disk' (or something like it).
I know the boot order is ok (certainly when its the only drive in the pc excluding the dvd drive).
The disk is being recognised in the BIOS correctly, even in the windows setup (no need to supply extra drivers)
The Operating system I'm trying to install is Windows XP Professional SP2
The sata disk is a 620 Gb Samsung disk, set with jumpers to sata 1 mode (Sata 150)
I don't think any other pc information is relevant (it works just fine), if any more info is needed ill add it.
I've got a ticket on the MSI online support, but I thought I'd ask it here as well
Maybe someone has any idea how to fix this.
I'm not 100% sure if the pc is running the latest BIOS but I think so, I can check tomorrow.

Quote from: Fredrik on 06-January-10, 00:06:12
Not vital, but good to know: During boot-up, first BIOS screen, hit I think key F11 to make sure BIOS knows what to inform Windows. Also have a look in boot order, and only have the SATA disk therein.
More importantly: From the motherboard page it seems as if you have to use a floppy and load RAID drivers to get SATA disk work correctly. ...It has got a few years on it's back.
http://www.msi.com/index.php?func=proddesc&maincat_no=1&cat2_no=&cat3_no=&prod_no=177
Its worth a shot I suppose.
I remember when I first got it I had to use a driver on a floppy disk, however back then the newest disk you could get was Windows XP (SP-0 aka pre service packs)
The Windows XP SP-2 disk seems to recognise the drive, but i see no harm in finding a floppy drive and giving it a shot.
Or possibly trying a diffrent OS such as linux or vista / 7.
Ill give it a try one of these days and report back, for anyone else reading, suggestions are still welcome

Acrobat Pro won't load since I reinstalled Photoshop

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Just to add a to Al's advice, working within the FCP X UI, try to copy one of the events (not the troublesome one) to the new library. Let us know how you make out.
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My MacBook Pro won't start up, just loads to a grey screen.. Please help anyone?

Try holding the option key on startup.

My MacBook Pro won't load any web page I have restarted and safe booted still nothing

My MacBook Pro will not load any web pages. Safari opens but when I click on top sites or type in a website it will start but not get past half of the address before stopping and going no further. I have restarted and restarted in safe boot and still no change. I'm am connected to the internet wirelessly and my iPad mini is connecting to the internet wirelessly fine, so I think the internet is fine. What can I try next?
Thanks

Reset Safari.
Click Safari in the menu bar.
From the drop down select "Reset Safari".
Uncheck the boxes beside all items.
Just check the box beside “Remove all website data”.
Click "Reset".
Empty Caches
Safari > Preference > Advanced
Checkmark the box for "Show Develop menu in menu bar".
Develop menu will appear in the Safari menu bar.
Click Develop and select "Empty Caches" from the dropdown.
Turn off Extensions if any, and launch Safari.
Safari > Preferences > Extensions

My MacBook Pro won't load my CD with pictures. Help me :(

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Hi JustinAlexa,
You don't say if other CDs or DVDs work. Please check out this article which goes through troubleshooting optical disc reading.
Archived - Troubleshooting a CD-ROM or DVD-ROM Disc That Does Not Appear on the Desktop
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2288
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Best Regards,
Nubz

Macbook Pro won't load past white loading screen when turned on after kernel panics

Hello,
I have a Macbook Pro and recently its been having repeated kernel panics. In the past few days its been turning off every few minutes or so. yesterday it had one and now when I try to turn it on it doesn't load. I get the white loading screen with the apple logo and a loading bar underneath. But after the bar fills about 5% of the way (if that) the bar just disappears and the spinning loading icon just keeps going without anything happening (however long I leave it).
Please can someone give me some suggestions to fix this. Just a few things to note:
a) I'm not great with computers so any fixes please explain in the most simple terms
b) I have VERY important work files on there that are NOT backed up (big mistake I know), so please only suggest fixes that will not remove these Microsoft Word files. Guaranteeing the safety of my work is paramount with any suggestions.
c) I may not have any of the disks which came with the Macbook Pro originally (though I may somewhere)
d) I've read some other forum posts and it seems that I need to know the details of my operating system. I don't know these and have no way of accessing them on the computer (for obvious reasons). Its a late 2011 Macbook Pro if that is of any help.
A massive thank you to anyone who can suggest a fix to these, I shall be eternally grateful.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to boot from an external drive, or else to use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Repeat Step 9, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Mac Pro won't boot if firewire drives attached

New Mac Pro (OS X 10.4.8) won't boot if my two daisy-chained LaCie hard drives are attached (firewire 800).
I can upnplug 'em and the computer cranks right up; can then plug the drive back in and everything's fine. Wazzup?
Thanks, Bob
Mac Pro 2.66 Mac OS X (10.4.8) User since Apple IIe

Similar problem with iMacG5 - if two firewire drives on bus wouldn't boot. Worked with one but erratic, also long delays opening files, finder erratic and hanging. Decided it was probably a chipset problem with the firewire bus. Since upgrading firewire enclosures problem gone away (I hope). How old are the drive enclosures. Oxford911 firewire bus has some problems with newer macs and OS. May get information on bus in "about this mac/moreinfo/firewire", or in disk utility window ("applications/utilities/disk Utility") WHEN computer is booted up with drives running.
OK, a Plug for Macpower's IceCube enclosures, bloody expensive but since I upgraded no problems. Also wiebetech.com have some cool stuff including internal SATA adaptors/cages etc.for older G5's and dual cores

XP Pro won't load

Help! I've got a similar problem to Bill Corkery in that XP (Pro this time) won't run.
At the moment I've got a fairly light system just to get the beast running, spec is:
P4 3.0GHz 800MHz FSB
865PE NEO2PFISR
120 Gb IBM P-ATA
Yamaha CD-RW
Floppy
9600XT 256Mb
Antec Truepower 430W +5V=36A, +12V=20A, +3.3V=28A
Memory - see below
BIOS is pretty much set to default, I've got the IDE Config set to Native and P-ATA only. Haven't touched much else until its running, may not be the right thing to do?
XP Pro (pre-SP1) installs up to the point of the first proper boot-up then stalls and gives me a similar BSD to that which Bill got i.e.
"A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent
damage to your computer. If this is the first time you've seen this..."
I can get into Safe Mode and when I did I installed SP1. Now it gets to the same stage but this time just reboots instead of the BSD! Argh! I tried various memory configurations, I can drop in up to 2Gb of Crucial DDR400 in 512Mb DIMMS, doesn't seem to matter what I try though, be it 1, 2 or all 4.
Help! Long term I'm pretty sure I'll need a bigger PSU because I want to install a DVD-RW along with 2 S-ATA drives. Mobo manual suggests I can have up to 4 IDE and 2 SATA in Native mode. Anyone have any experience of this? Is the current PSU big enough for what is connected at present? (It works in safe mode)
Cheers, my next option involves a nearby trainline and some duct tape...
Andy.

Ok, figured out how to change the memory voltage in small steps but still no joy. I've changed the voltage from 2.60v up as high as 2.75v, still nothing. Also moving DIMM from DIMM1 into DIMM2.
Heres what happens....
If I have the ATA operating in Native mode XP does the initial install, reboots and gets details such as product key etc, then reboots again. At this stage there is a little HDD activitiy and then nothing. Seems to hang indefinetly. No response on numlock key etc.
If I have it running in legacy mode it hangs for a minute or two then I get a BSD, but the error codes don't appear on the MS website though
http://www.microsoft.com/technet/treeview/default.asp?url=/technet/prodtechnol/winxppro/reskit/prmd_stp_swhw.asp
Codes are:
A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer.
...blah blah blah...
*** STOP: 0x0000007E (0xC0000006, 0x806741FF, 0xF8967700, 0xF8967400)
Argh! Andy.

Logic 9 Pro won't load apple loops library or EXS24 Instruments!

First off, specs:
I'm running 9.1.8 on OSX 10.8.2
I recently purchased a brand new 13" MacBook Pro (early this december) and used migration assistant to transfer my accounts, apps, and such from my old hard drive to my new one. Everything seems to be in its place and running fine, except for Logic 9 Pro.
Whenever I load up a session featuring the EXS24 sampler, the loading bar will hang up upon loading the instrument, eventually turn into the spinning wheel of death, and become unresponsive. This also happens when I create a new session, open up a new instance of EXS24, and attempt to load a patch. All of the other stock Apple instruments load up just fine.
I also noticed that Logic can't locate my Apple Loops Library, as every option in the loop browser is grayed out. I went into my library folder and found the EXS patches as well as the Apple loops, so I know they're there!
Unfortunately, I don't have a Logic 9 CD (It came preinstalled on my previous computer), so to my knowledge reinstallation isn't an option, unless there's a way to reinstall Logic 9 without a CD and without losing my license. I've already tried the following to resolve this issue:
- Reindexing spotlight
- Reindexing loop browser
- Disabling spotlight on the volume where the Logic files reside
- Deleting the Logic 9 preference file
If anyone has any insight or a way to reinstall Logic 9 Pro without a CD and without losing my license, it'd be greatly appreciated!

Hi
You probably need to re-index the Loop Library.
In Logic 9 control click on the Loop Library and choose "Reindex"
In Logic X use the Loops Menu at the top and again, choose "ReIndex".
If that does not do it, you may need to manually remove the Index files
CCT

XP Pro won't load on SATA drives

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