Xperia z1 photo analyzer

I have a problem when opening the camera. I get this message: unfortunately, photo analyzer has stopped.
What should I do?

Repair your phone with
Update Service (SUS)
PC Companion (PCC)
Bridge (for Mac)
Alternatives on How to backup Xperias
http://talk.sonymobile.com/thread/36355
"I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

Similar Messages

Xperia Z1 photo upload issue

I recently updated the software on my sony xperia z1 and since then I haven't been able to upload photos to twitter or instagram. I can go to share the photo, get taken to my album where the photos are all displayed, but when it takes me through to the editor the screen is black. If I click to upload anyway, all that is uploaded is a black screen.
Can anyone help please?

Settings-apps-all-album,clear data.Restart.
All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us - J.R.R. Tolkien

Photo Analyzer Organizer 12

Most of my photos are medium quality and i don't know why? They are in focus and don't have other issues. What would make them high quality?

Come on folks, i can't believe no one knows what makes a high quality photo. Is the analyzer just not a good function? I was hoping to use it to become a better photographer; am i expecting too much? Also maybe i didn't phrase my question right?
Thanks, Barb

Xperia Z1 Photo Issue

I can't send video through email or Text Mesaging. I always get the message "File to large to attach". Is there something in my settings I can change so that I can send my mom these videos? I have no problems uploading to Facebook... I just can't email or text message them.
Thanks all!

As said above you can change the resolution in the video camera to 'MMS'. Open the camera > change to manual mode > press the 3 dots > video resolution > MMS.
What are your thoughts about this forum? Let us know by doing this short survey.

Xperia Z1 flash issue

Hi, I noticed that my Xperia Z1 photos made using the flash tend to have a white hue in the right side, most of them anyway. And it's not the fact that I'm too close to the subject. In the attached photo everything was at least 1 and a half meters away from me. Not all pictures turn out like this, but most of them get this white hue.
Any of you experinced this ? Could it be that I have a faulty unit ?

Well, me and my friends were testing this phone and out of 20 people 2 had this problem i was one of them
... we all had same model of black xperia z1.
I managed to get to the bottom of this .... i think. First of all if u have additional case cover with too small "window" around the lens or additional protective foil the problem is getting even bigger.... foil transports more light fom flash so check if the photo is better wothout additional protective foil or case cover (im not talking about original one).
Anyway....
My phone has silver border around the lens and i had same problem over and over again. Sometimes when i restarted it i managed to get few pictures of god quality.........one day i just painted this silver border with thin black marker with caution and....viola.... problem dissapered... funny thing because out of 20 same models ony 2 experienced same problem ... all looked the same, dunno maybe flash is brighen on those 2 mabe some other problem ....anyway i know its not the best solution but it helped me. cheers

Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

People recognition error in PSE 9 Organizer

I am new to PSE and PRE. I purchased version 9, installed and began importing my photos and videos. My library has 8566 entries. At first people recognition worked fine finding photos with faces and suggesting names as I entered them. Then it read "No unlabeled people found in your selection." I thought this was great because I had everyone tagged. I noticed as I looked through my photos that not everyone is tagged. Now I get boxes asking "Who is this?" and when I click the box I no longer get a suggestion. Also if I try to run people recognition it says "No unlabled people found in your selection." I get this message even after importing new photos that were just taken. PSE Organizer recognizes the face but still says no unlabled people. How can this be? Please help.

function(){return A.apply(null,[this].concat($A(arguments)))}
Flagelpater wrote:
I am also fighting the same problems. Tried the suggestion by RDNelson #13 with No Success. Not impressed with ADOBE's response so far. I have not tried the new catalog procedure yet because I do not want to get 90% finished and have it fail again. Thank you to all that have responded and I wonder how many others are reading but not joining in?
Can you tell me what is happening after you tried my suggestions. Are you still getting "No unlabled people found in your selection" when pressing the Start people recognition button?
I may have duplicated this issue. I will ask that you investigate something else. First, some background information...
Running face recognition makes an entry in the catalog. In addition it creates a file for every photo which face recognition is run on. This file is placed in the BreezeData directory under the catalog directory. I was able to duplicate the issue where the propmt "No unlabled people found in your selection" by write protecting the BreezeData directory.
Possibly, there are issues with this directory on your system. I just helped someone else who had directory permissions on the .dat files which caused other issues. Possibly there are permission problems in this directory? Or, could this directory contain too many files (NTFS volumes should allow for a very large amount of files)?
This is what I would like you to check...
1) Check to make sure the security settings are set to "Full Control" on the BreezeData directory.
a) Right click on the BreezeData directory from the Windows Explorer
b) Click on the Security tab
c) Click on the Advanced button
d) Click on the Effective Permissions tab
e) Click on "Select..."
f) Type in the user name which is currently logged in or the user name you wish to check permissions on in the box "Enter the object name to select (examples):
g) Press the "Ok" button.
f) Review the checkboxes in the "Effective permissions" list to ensure there is a checkbox next to all items in the list.
If you don't have sufficent permissions, then add full control to the desired users. You may want to verify that the catalog and all content under the catalog is set to Full Control. Make sure to exit the Organizer and restart before you try face recognition again.
2) If 1) does not indicate any problems, see if you can actually navigate to the BreezeData directory.
a) How many files are in this directory?
b) Can you open up any file?
c) Can you create a temporary file such as a word document or even a text file with Notepad?
Note that the same thing happens for media-analysis except for a file is created in the CAXMPFiles directory for every photo analyzed.
I hope this helps. I'm not sure I can help you beyond this and it would be best to contact Adobe directly to report this.

How can i recover the deleted photos on my Xperia S ?

I deleted some photos carelessly a few days ago. Since i use the phone model is "Xperia S" which is use of interal storage hard disk (not have SD card select), i have tried use some of recovery software (like CardRecovery, Pandora Recovery) but since Xperia S connect the PC via USB only have Media Transfer Mode (MTP), the aforesaid software cannot detect my phone as an external driver and hence cannot recover any files. Please help me to solve this problem.

How can i recover the deleted photos on my Xperia S ? I want to recover deleted photos from my mobile for a particular number. All the photos are deleted instantly and no threads were present on my mobile so I need to recover every photos individually.Your experience is so similar with mine! I ever deleted a photos sent by my GF, which is so meaningful for me. I was so regretful, then I was crazy to find solution to recover this sms from my phone. At last, I got a recommedation from a Android forum, it said that a data recovery software for Android can recover deleted photoson my Xperia S , so I tried to download and use it. Awesome! It recover the sms! You can have a try:Follow the steps below to recover the deleted photos on my Xperia S . Have a try. 1 Connect your Xperia S and enable USB debugging2 Analyze your Android phoneAfter the USB debugging, reconnect your phone if you are asked to disconnect it during the setting. Then can see the window below. Here you need to bear in mind that your phone's battery is more than 20% charged, and then you can click "Start" to let the program analyze your Android phone. 3 Scan your Android for deleted text photos4 Preview and recover photos from Android You can preview the photos that can find from it. Related Articles:
How to recover deleted datas from Android phone ?
Download the free trial version of Android photos Recovery and have a try. Click here to downloadHow to recover deleted photos on your Xperia S?

Do not display microsd photo on xperia library.

Hello to all
I just have adquired a xperia Z2 and my problem is I have lots of photos in my microsd card(which comes form my old xperia Z1) but it does not display on xperia Z2 library.I have to install other app as .apk as quickpic to view.
Any solution on it.
Thanks a lot.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

They do not show up in album?Try settings-apps-all-album,clear data.Check again.
All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us - J.R.R. Tolkien

Photo upload problem (Xperia with Facebook)

I am having problems uploading photos to facebook with Xperia with Facebook I have tried lots of different things nothing works anyone please help I have not uploaded a photo to facebook before the last update not sure if that's causing the issue

are you able to upload pictures using facebook ? not Xperia with facebook

People analyzer not working in photoshop 11 with D800 RAW photos

I have photoshop elements 11. People analyzer will not reconize people or allow me to tag people in my photos. It works with my older camera photos such as from my Nikon D300 but will not work with photos from my D800 (RAW).

As follows:
Elements Organizer 11.0.0.0
Core Version: 11.0 (20120830.r.32025)
Language Version: 11.0 (20120830.r.32025)
Current Catalog:
Catalog Name: Master Catalog2011
Catalog Location: D:\Master Catalog2011\
Catalog Size: 77.3MB
Catalog Cache Size: 741.5MB
System:
Operating System Name: Windows 7
Operating System Version: 6.1 Service Pack 1
System Architecture: Intel CPU Family:6 Model:10 Stepping:7 with MMX, SSE Integer, SSE FP
Built-in Memory: 16GB
Free Memory: 13.5GB
Important Drivers / Plug-ins / Libraries:
Microsoft DirectX Version: 9.0
Apple QuickTime Version: Not installed
Adobe Reader Version: 9.4
Adobe Acrobat Version: Not installed
CD and DVD drives:
E: (TSSTcorp CDDVDW BUS: 1 ID: 1 Firmware: SH-216AB)

Google photos and facebook crash on Xperia Z1

Hi everyone,
I'm having a weird problem with video streaming on facebook. I use google photos to play videos on facebook, but sometimes it just crashes all of a sudden. My "home" and "back" buttons won't work and i would have to reboot my phone. Is it a problem with Google photos, Facebook app or is it a bug in Z1? Let me know your thoughts.

Hi and welcome to the community! Since you're new please be sure that you have checked out our Discussion guidelines.
Check if you're able to clear the default setting for the Google photos app and try launching your Facebook videos using our player or any other video player app. Just to check if this could be caused by the Google photos app.
- Community Manager Sony Xperia Support Forum
If you're new to our forums make sure that you have read our Discussion guidelines.
If you want to get in touch with the local support team for your country please visit our contact page.

Photo quality decrease after upgrade on xperia neo

After my upgrade to android 4 I have seen that my photocamera don't have the same quality before. Photo are made darkness and not with the same good quality. Is this only a my problem?
Flavetius

That is odd, I have not been aware of any drop in camera quality via an update with this model. With this being the case I would advise running the update again and choosing the "Repair" option.
What are your thoughts about this forum? Let us know by doing this short survey.
- Official Sony Xperia Support Staff
If you're new to our forums make sure that you have read our Discussion guidelines.
If you want to get in touch with the local support team for your country please visit our contact page.

I want stock music and photo and video from Xperia z2

I want stock photo & video & music that comes with new Xperia z2

These are one's I uploaded a while back and are from a Z1 however the Landscape video is the same as to is the Music - the images are most likely the same give or take 1 or 2 and the Demo video is no good for you so you'd have to check XDA for that
For a successful technology, reality must take precedence over public relations, for Nature cannot be fooled. Richard P. Feynman

How to make 8MP photos with Superior Auto in Xperia Z1?

Hi all
I bought the Xperia Z1 mainly for the camera, but I am not satisfied with the results. In articles like the one linked here, it states that "Sony has wisely set the Z1 to take 8-megapixel oversampled photos by default".
http://www.theverge.com/2013/9/30/4784014/sony-xperia-z1-review
Though,in superior auto my Z1 takes photos with 5248 x 3936 = 21 MP! Could that be a reason for the poor image quality and how could I in that case change this setting without going to manual mode (there I already changed it).
Thanks in advance for your support!
Dan.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi again
I have now first tried clearing the data/cache, but no change. The I repaired the phone (loosing all settings done), but it is still the same. The pictures made with "Superior auto" are of 21MP and around 7MB big.
I also found a colleague that got her phone at the same time and for her it is the same, i.e. the pictures made with "Superior Auto" are of 21MP and around 7MB big. She had though thought that this is how it was supposed to be.
So the question remains. Do I need to send the phone for "repair" or is this acutally the way it should be?
Are there no other users on this forum that could clarify this?
The way I do it:
1. Start the carmera app.
2. Choose "Superior auto" if not already done
3. Take the picture
4. Open the picture with "Albums"
5. "Options" -> "Details"
6. States"Width: 5248" and "Height: 3936" (i.e. 21MP)
Is this correct or not?
Thankful for any answers!
Dan

Xperia z1 photo analyzer

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for