Z1 camera vs z camera, lacks white balance

i have compared the camera shots yesterday. why is the camera of z produces better shots? z1's camera shot samples are so grainy and noisy. im disappoinyed because im planning to buy z1 soon. and it also lacks white balance on display which imprives the over all display quality of the device.
SONY PLEASE DO SOMETHING!!!
IM DISAPPOINTED, I WANT TO BUY Z1,
BUT IT NEEDS MORE IMPROVEMENT.
I HOPE MY CONCERN REACHES YOU.
THANKS A LOT.

It does
http://userguide.sonymobile.com/referrer.php?region=global-en&product=xperia-z1#General-camera-setti...
White balance
This function adjusts the colour balance according to the lighting conditions. The white balance setting icon is available on the camera screen.
Auto
Adjusts the colour balance automatically to suit the lighting conditions.
Incandescent
Adjusts the colour balance for warm lighting conditions, such as under light bulbs.
Fluorescent
Adjusts the colour balance for fluorescent lighting.
Daylight
Adjusts the colour balance for sunny outdoor conditions.
Cloudy
Adjusts the colour balance for a cloudy sky.
This setting is only available in Manual capturing mode.
"I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

Similar Messages

Can you remove the camera white balance setting in Aperture

I have a Canon 7D and use Aperture for processing and storing my images.
With the Canon I shoot both video and still and frequently adjust the white balance in the camera. I make a frequent mistake in leaving the wrong white balance setting on - eg when taking video indoors in the evening I set the white balance to indoors (the Canon seems poor at white balance decision making on video) and then I forget I'm not using auto white balance and switch to taking a photo with flash. The result is a horrible blue photo - which if I don't spot the problem at the time seems very hard to correct afterwards.
I use the Aperture white balance adjustments frequently but unless there is a patch or white or grey I an use the dropper on, I find this particular situation seems to be right off the scale of what I can fix in Aperture. I end up with sliders at the extremes of the scales and no intuitive sense of what numbers to type in manually to try and get realistic colour - so I often end up discarding these photos even if the shot itself is something I'd like to use.
So my question is given I'm importing RAW, is there a way to show the phoo without the (wrong) white balance setting I applied in the camera, to let me choose white balance from scratch?
Or if not, do you have any advice about how to adjust from this very bluey unrealistic colour of image?

Kirkby - thanks for the quick reply.
Didn't know you could drag inside a value field - that's helpful.
But being able to get different numbers on the slider isn't the root of my problem.
In a specific example I have two photos - one taken with white balance set to flash and the photo was with flash, where after a bit of tweaking to get the colour I want the temp slider is at 5000K (and tint 0). The second photo has my shooting error with interior lighting white balance but taken with flash. The two shots were taken from almost the same point of the same view (but different people in frame). The shot with the white balance error comes off camera horribly blue coloured. I can fiddle with the two sliders - I take temperature to 20000K and tint to 40 to do the best with it I can, and with those settings one of the two faces is approaching flesh colour but the wall behind the subjects (which is a light blue in reality) is now appearing light yellow in places. I just can't get a good looking colour effect no matter ow extreme the slider settings.
I may have phrased my question badly - as I totally agree you can't show a raw without a colour setting - so maybe I'm better asking to be able to use a different colour setting on the raw data rather than having to start with adjustments on top of my white balance mistake.
Given the two shots were in the same place against the same background and the same lighting (both with flash) it seems to me I ought to be able to get a similar colour effect on both and I just can't. To illustrate here are the two photos (the one on the left was shot with flash wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 5000K and 0 tint, the one on the right was shot with indoor wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 20000K and 40 tint and it looks terrible!)
https://www.box.com/shared/qle3t6ovyhrd1egez3vc

Turn off auto white balance on USB camera

Hi,
I'm using a USB camera to capture images of bright colored lights. I have the light configured and working in MAX and Labview 2009. My problem is that the camera is set to auto white balance in MAX and Labview, and I can't seem to change this to no white balance. When the bright lights are imaged the white wall behind the light turns the complimentary color to the light as the software attempts to 'white balance' the entire image. There doesn't seem to be an option in Labview or MAX to turn this white balance to anything other than 'auto.' I've attached the program and a couple screen shots to show the problem.
Any help would be appreciated!
Attachments:
camera.vi ‏45 KB
Camera Image.JPG ‏24 KB
MAX settings.JPG ‏72 KB

Hi!
This might be late, but for the sake of reference I will answer anyway.
You should use 2 property nodes.
To the porpery: "CameraAttributes->ActiveAttribute"
you should wire the string: "CameraAttributes::WhiteBalance::Mode", and to the property "ValueDBL" you should wire 1 (for manual).
Then repeat this on a second property node but change "mode" to "value" and wire the desired value to "ValueDBL."
For a more complete description see my post on a similar problem with autofocus (change "Focus" to "WhiteBalance" and it is the same as described above).
http://forums.quickcamteam.net/showthread.php?tid=891
// Emil

Camera Settings, white balance?

Is there a way to change the settings of the build in camera? For example the white balance? No matter what the lighting is, faces always look too redish (in Skype, Photo Booth, etc).
Many thanks for your help.
Olaf

I am not sure of a way to do it in OSX but you might check out this link...
http://www.ecamm.com/mac/iglasses/settings.html

White Balance In "PS" Or In "LR"

Hello Everyone I have a question please.
1- Shooting with my Canon 5D, Mostly shooting with Strobes, Usually I choose a Custom white Balance shooting a Gray-Card. Or some-times I set it at: 5200- 5500 K.
2- Later I shoot a Color-Checker with the same Lighting that I shot my Images In that day, and I Import the color-checker Image into Lightroom.
3- I select the Eye-Dropper Tool, and I choose a white balance by clicking on one of the neutral colors inside the Lightroom .
4- I export the Color-Checker As a DNG file.
5- I Drag and Drop the DNG file into the Color-Checker, and I save my profile.( I can also export it as a Preset of Color-Checker from File-Export-Preset- Color-Checker Passport )
6- I go to the Photoshop and I go to the Camera-Raw, and Open the Images and I apply the preset Manually to each Image one by one.
Here Is my question:
some people say: It Is better to go to the Lightroom and export the Color-Checker as a preset and later apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for White Balance..
And, Some people say It Is always better to apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for white balance at first Inside the Lightroom and then export the color-Checker as a preset.
and some other people say It is better to export the Color-Checker as a Preset and open it Inside the Photo-Shop Camera Raw, and then Click on the White Balance Eye Dropper Tool Inside the Camera Raw, and select the white Balance and then save It as the final preset and apply that preset to the Images..
I worked with Photoshop for many years, But, I am very new to Lightroom.
Please let me know what is your recommendation.
Thank you very much

Hello Everyone I have a question please.
1- Shooting with my Canon 5D, Mostly shooting with Strobes, Usually I choose a Custom white Balance shooting a Gray-Card. Or some-times I set it at: 5200- 5500 K.
2- Later I shoot a Color-Checker with the same Lighting that I shot my Images In that day, and I Import the color-checker Image into Lightroom.
3- I select the Eye-Dropper Tool, and I choose a white balance by clicking on one of the neutral colors inside the Lightroom .
4- I export the Color-Checker As a DNG file.
5- I Drag and Drop the DNG file into the Color-Checker, and I save my profile.( I can also export it as a Preset of Color-Checker from File-Export-Preset- Color-Checker Passport )
6- I go to the Photoshop and I go to the Camera-Raw, and Open the Images and I apply the preset Manually to each Image one by one.
Here Is my question:
some people say: It Is better to go to the Lightroom and export the Color-Checker as a preset and later apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for White Balance..
And, Some people say It Is always better to apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for white balance at first Inside the Lightroom and then export the color-Checker as a preset.
and some other people say It is better to export the Color-Checker as a Preset and open it Inside the Photo-Shop Camera Raw, and then Click on the White Balance Eye Dropper Tool Inside the Camera Raw, and select the white Balance and then save It as the final preset and apply that preset to the Images..
I worked with Photoshop for many years, But, I am very new to Lightroom.
Please let me know what is your recommendation.
Thank you very much

Cannot get white-balance correction to work

I have some diving video that needs white balance correction. I am trying out the PE11 trial.
I've tried smart-fix as well as the 3-way correction tool. I've used the dropper to select something that should be white, but it makes little to no difference.
Any ideas why ?

As an experiment I went for another dive today, this time taking the same camera (Canon S110 with underwater white balance mode active) as well as a GoPro with a red filter. The video from the GoPro seems to have much more colour in it so I think it's a case of the Canon not capturing as much of that spectrum. I'll do another dive tomorrow and manually set the white balance to see if it makes any difference. I'm so use to shooting on the GoPro that I was surprised by the reduced colour in the Canon.
Is there any way to determine how much of red / green / blue is available in the video using PE11 ?
Thanks for the reply.

White Balance Setting Errors - HELP!

I am having a problem with Aperture and wanted to find if anyone else has noticed this since the update to 3.1.
I imported a batch of photos (about 75 RAW 25 JPEG) and noticed that the white balance was the same for every picture. Odd since my Nikon camera is set to Auto White Balance and RAW and the JPEG photos from my Sony should show 5000/0. Everything was showing the same value, which was something like 4689/-5.
I discovered that Aperture is only showing me the setting for the first photo I select after opening the program. Unless I deselect the photo by clicking somewhere on the background, that photo's setting will show for all photos that have not been locked into a setting by editing. After deselecting, I can then click on a different photo and get the correct white balance numbers.
This causes a very annoying problem - I can't start editing a photo after directly clicking on it or moving to it with the arrow keys because the white balance starting point will be from a previous photo's setting, so I am moving the sliders from the wrong starting point. Having to deselect and reselect between every photo is very irritating.
I've restarted my computer, repaired Aperture's permissions, and repaired the database, but nothing fixes the problem. It's likely a bug that needs an update to be fixed (I submitted a bug report) but I'm open to suggestions.
Anyone else having a similar problem since updating?

Others have reported simialr problems.
See:
[White Balance Glitch|http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=12521251&#12521251]

Nikon D800 Flash White Balance

When RAW files (either NEF or DNG) taken with the setting Flash White Balance, they are imported into either Lightroom(4) or Photoshop(CS6) with a temperature of 6150K. This does not coincide with the Nikon default of 5400K. If the Nikon Software (View NX2) is used, the white balance shows that the Flash setting was used and the image appears identical when their 5400 default is applied. In Lightroom, or in CS6, if the temperature number is changed to reflect the Nikon default number of 5400K, the color of the image dramatically changes. If the temperature is left at 6150K, the image appears virtually identical to what Nikon calls 5400K.
The issue, a minor one, seems to be that the Adobe products are applying an incorrect Kelving Temperature number to the files. It is disconcerting to see the wrong temperature displayed in the software, but the number can be ignored without any negative effects; and the number can be modified to produce a more pleasing balance.
I am writing only because it took some experimentation and time to come to these conclusions. I wasn't clear, at first whether the camera was at fault, or if the software was producing the issue. It would be beneficial to have the issue addressed and corrected.
Incidentally, all the other White Balance settings from the camera seem to translate accurately into the Adobe Software.

Nikon's white balance numbers are confusing. Nikon list Direct Sunlight as 5200 degrees and Flash as 5400 degrees - no values are listed for tint. If you open an NEF file with Nikon Capture NX2 and select Direct Sunlight for the white balance it will list 5200 degrees with tint of 0 for the white balance, and if you select Flash it will list 5400 degrees and a tint of 0. You can adjust these values with sliders, and if you adjust the Flash values to 5200 degrees with a tint of 0 you do not get the same colors in the image as you get with Direct Sunlight selected which has the identical temperature and tint values.
I don't find any agreement between Nikon's white balance values and what you get with Adobe RAW processing software. I don't find the presets in Adobe Software (Daylight, Flash, etc) very useful because they don't appear correct for the camera's I have. I shot images (NEF Files) with every preset available in the camera selected and saved the white balance values as presets in Adobe Camera RAW. I also find the Camera profiles more useful than Adobe Standard.

White Balance Tint Limit When Processing Raw Files

Hi guys, following some recent suggestions I've got hold of some Welding glass to use as an ND filter on my Fuji HS20. It arrived today and works a treat.
I do however now have a new issue that this has caused. I've set a custom white balance on the camera to counter act the tint from the glass. This now produces the correct colour on my jpg photo's however the RAW files have the wrong colour tint.
When I open them in photoshop elements 11 I get the CAMERA RAW application. The white balance is set to 'AS SHOT' however the Tint is at +150. I'm guessing my problem is that the tint needs to be more than +150 and CAMERA RAW is limiting it.
Does this mean I am now limited to using JPG's when I use this glass as an ND filter, or is there a way I can get rid of this limit to the tint on the white balance

filippodallosso wrote:
I have exactly the same problem. The reply is to your question is not what you were asking, isnt it?
The point is that we CAN NOT adjust the white balance as suggested, because the sliders are already at their maximum value when we open the photo in camera raw. We'd need to further increase the tint value (as the photo looks green) but it is by default at 150, so we cannot increase it further.
One way to overcome the limitation of the tint/temp sliders is to save an intermediate tiff or psd file. You can open it in ACR and apply the same maximal slider correction.
For the same purpose, instead of saving an intermediate file, I opened the raw file in the editor. From there, I used the Editinacr script in Elements+ to reopen the layer in ACR (shift f3 and script selection). Same corrections and back as a new layer in the editor. I could repeat the process several times to get a very powerful correction without intermediate files.

Custom white balance and EXIF data

Using 3.1.1 for two weeks or so, all is good for now but I have a question. After shooting the same subject with different white balance (still learning digital photography) with my D7000, a few with auto WB, a few with the camera's incandescent settings and a few with customized K degrees, 4,500K, 5,000K and 6,200K to analyze the differences, on the exif data, Aperture only shows AWB and the "incandescent" setting on the camera whenever used, but it doesn't show me when I set the degrees by numbers on the camera, it shows as "auto white balance", is this part of the white balance glitch? Although I can see the difference between those custom K degrees on preview, how do I find out in Aperture the exact K used on those custom WB other than looking back on the camera?

Thanks for replying.
No, not in Auto mode. I was in Aperature mode.
I have used custom white balance many times before.
I tried the battery removal etc. No luck there.
Removed and reinserted card. No help.
I finally got out of this hangup.
I downloaded all images to PC using the Canon EOS software.
Then I deleted all images from card in camera.
Then when I set up custom white balance again, it worked just as expected.
There was a very brief flash of the "Busy..." message and then into the next step to set .
Have no clue as why this suddenly started.
Maybe struck by stray gamma ray burst
Canon 3Ti, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II, 320EX Speedlite

White Balance Effect

CS6 Production Premium Suite
Win7x64
Nvidia GForce GTX 470
Intel i7 930 @2.8GHz
12 GB memory
Canon XA10
Does Premiere have a White Balance effect like Camera Raw which adjusts the white balance Kelvin?
If not, why not since Camera Raw has one.
Is there a third party that does?
Thanks in advance.

I use an Expo Disc to manually set the white balance for the Canon XA10. However, the lighting was suddenly changed while shooting. Unfortunately, the XA10 greys white balance changes while shooting. The speaker would have gone ballistic if I asked her to stop for a moment to change to auto white balance. So I was forced to shoot with a manual white balance setting that looked great before the lighting change but looked awful afterward. Hence, the need to make white balance adjustments in post production.

Lightroom: Why does auto white balance no longer work after changing the camera calibration profile?

I'm using NEF raw files from Nikon.
Lets say for example I import a NEF file into Lightroom (v4) and click on 'auto' for white balance. The white balance in the image is adjusted correctly (somewhat). However, if I then change the camera profile (in the camera calibration section) from 'adobe standard' to 'camera standard' then the white balance in the image becomes very wrong. I then have to set the white balance back to 'as shot' and correct it manually instead.
Why would 'auto white balance' no longer work just because I change the profile from 'adobe standard' to 'camera standard'?
Any ideas?

Works as expected here...
Which Lr version and what OS??

White Balance in Camera raw

Every time I open an image from Bridge in CS6, into camera raw the white balance always defaults to fluorescent. How can I change default opening to read as"shot as"?

Hi there! Because the forum you originally posted in is for beginners trying to learn the basics of Photoshop, I moved your question to the Camera Raw forum, where you'll get more specialized help.

Adobe DNG converter is corrupting NEF files. The color is way off and it's not the camera white balance.

I was using the converter for a few months and it was working fine. Now it will convert the files, but the color is really messed. I know it is not the white balance, because the same files convert fine to TIF files through Nikon's software. I am using this converter for Nikon d610 NEF files. Here's a sample DNG and the same image in TIF. Can anyone help? Thanks!

When you use the DNG Converter to make a DNG from an NEF, the DNG Converter applies the default Camera Raw settings. When I open your DNG it looks fine, but when you open it, it looks off. That is because you've some how set your Camera Raw defaults to have a bunch of customized settings specific to a particular picture, instead of having them all be normal settings. Below you'll see what Photoshop is saying the settings of the DNG-Converted-JPG are, with the non-defaults marked in bold. The main problems are the WB being custom and a bunch of HSL setting changes.
Here is what Photoshop reports that the JPG was created using:
      <rdf:Description rdf:about=""
            xmlns:crs="http://ns.adobe.com/camera-raw-settings/1.0/">
         <crs:RawFileName>hug_8290_0215_1.dng</crs:RawFileName>
         <crs:Version>6.0</crs:Version>
         <crs:ProcessVersion>5.7</crs:ProcessVersion>
         <crs:WhiteBalance>Custom</crs:WhiteBalance>
         <crs:Temperature>5732</crs:Temperature>
         <crs:Tint>+26</crs:Tint>
         <crs:Exposure>0.00</crs:Exposure>
         <crs:Shadows>5</crs:Shadows>
         <crs:Brightness>+50</crs:Brightness>
         <crs:Contrast>+25</crs:Contrast>
         <crs:Saturation>-4</crs:Saturation>
         <crs:Sharpness>90</crs:Sharpness>
         <crs:LuminanceSmoothing>0</crs:LuminanceSmoothing>
         <crs:ColorNoiseReduction>25</crs:ColorNoiseReduction>
         <crs:ChromaticAberrationR>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationR>
         <crs:ChromaticAberrationB>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationB>
         <crs:VignetteAmount>0</crs:VignetteAmount>
         <crs:ShadowTint>0</crs:ShadowTint>
         <crs:RedHue>0</crs:RedHue>
         <crs:RedSaturation>+11</crs:RedSaturation>
         <crs:GreenHue>0</crs:GreenHue>
         <crs:GreenSaturation>0</crs:GreenSaturation>
         <crs:BlueHue>+12</crs:BlueHue>
         <crs:BlueSaturation>+2</crs:BlueSaturation>
         <crs:FillLight>0</crs:FillLight>
         <crs:Vibrance>-6</crs:Vibrance>
         <crs:HighlightRecovery>0</crs:HighlightRecovery>
         <crs:Clarity>0</crs:Clarity>
         <crs:Defringe>0</crs:Defringe>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentRed>0</crs:HueAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>0</crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>+1</crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>+5</crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>-9</crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>-2</crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>+14</crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>+25</crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>+26</crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>+32</crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>+40</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>+13</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>+3</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>+15</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>+3</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>+4</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:SplitToningShadowHue>231</crs:SplitToningShadowHue>
         <crs:SplitToningShadowSaturation>32</crs:SplitToningShadowSaturation>
         <crs:SplitToningHighlightHue>45</crs:SplitToningHighlightHue>
         <crs:SplitToningHighlightSaturation>33</crs:SplitToningHighlightSaturation>
         <crs:SplitToningBalance>+74</crs:SplitToningBalance>
         <crs:ParametricShadows>-39</crs:ParametricShadows>
         <crs:ParametricDarks>-7</crs:ParametricDarks>
         <crs:ParametricLights>-15</crs:ParametricLights>
         <crs:ParametricHighlights>+14</crs:ParametricHighlights>
         <crs:ParametricShadowSplit>25</crs:ParametricShadowSplit>
         <crs:ParametricMidtoneSplit>50</crs:ParametricMidtoneSplit>
         <crs:ParametricHighlightSplit>75</crs:ParametricHighlightSplit>
         <crs:SharpenRadius>+1.0</crs:SharpenRadius>
         <crs:SharpenDetail>25</crs:SharpenDetail>
         <crs:SharpenEdgeMasking>0</crs:SharpenEdgeMasking>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteAmount>-24</crs:PostCropVignetteAmount>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteMidpoint>50</crs:PostCropVignetteMidpoint>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteFeather>97</crs:PostCropVignetteFeather>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteRoundness>0</crs:PostCropVignetteRoundness>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteStyle>1</crs:PostCropVignetteStyle>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteHighlightContrast>0</crs:PostCropVignetteHighlightContrast>
         <crs:GrainAmount>0</crs:GrainAmount>
         <crs:ColorNoiseReductionDetail>50</crs:ColorNoiseReductionDetail>
         <crs:ConvertToGrayscale>False</crs:ConvertToGrayscale>
         <crs:ToneCurveName>Medium Contrast</crs:ToneCurveName>
         <crs:CameraProfile>Adobe Standard</crs:CameraProfile>
         <crs:CameraProfileDigest>51B4314CF8312BA027EF3FC60481FB35</crs:CameraProfileDigest>
         <crs:HasSettings>True</crs:HasSettings>
To fix the problem you're gonna need to reset your camera raw defaults:
And then be careful when saving new camera raw defaults with the menu item just above, that your image has the camera raw defaults applied to it, except whatever small change you want to be the new default.

White Balance tool and Camera Calibration Profiles

Downloaded Lightroom v4 Beta 1 for mac but the installer package failed to launch. (com.apple.installer.pagecontroller error -1.) So I've only watched the adobe tv presentations todate.
Anyway just wanted to give some feedback as a pro photographer about use of Lightroom and improvments I would like to see in the next version.
I am a commercial photographer who needs colour accuracy in photographing fashion/garment images - most of my work is reproduced on a printing press for catalogues and brochures. On average a shoot will yeild about 500 images for a client, so workflow is important as they normally want them all!
As a previous user of Capture One Pro v6 and now lightroom v3.6 - the biggest issue I have with Lightroom is the dominace of red tint when setting the white balance from a gray card reference image, shot at the same time as the images to be processed. I'm not adding anything to the images other than doing a white balance, a tweak on exposure and camera neutral setting on profiles.
To obtain a white balance setting I use the combination of an Xrite white balance card and the Q-Card and the old fasioned Kodak Gray cards all mounted on the same surface. I've used spot and ambient light readings on the gray cards to measure exposure and I've used the Adobe DNG Profiler and the Xrite colour checker profiler with the large colour checker card as a reference, (I've made profiles for sunny days, cloudy days, dual illuminant etc etc) and I'm viewing my images on a colour calibrated apple monitor.
Not withstanding all of the above the best results I get out of Lightroom are using the camera profile neutral setting! Everthing else is just too red!! even though the images do look more punchy; for accuracy of actual colour I choose the camera neutral profile.
Well when I say best results, those for colour critical garment photography and skin tones, these results are similar to those obtained from capture one pro v6.
So for the Lightroom v4 I would like to see.
1. White balance RGB values in numbers rather than percentages.
2. Add and delete a colour readouts points with a dropper tool on an image to enable more acurate colour balancing particularly in shadow areas - (already available on capture one pro and adobe photoshop)
3. Curves adjustments in all RGB channels (think you've done this)
4. Output to CMYK profiles.
5. Individual levels channel adjustment for RGB
6. Ability re-organize my tools palette (add and remove) is per Capture One and Photoshop
Regards

The legacy ACR X.x profiles are no more produced nor included for newer cameras (AFAIK, since ACR 5.1/LR 2.1). The Adobe Standard is the new default starting point for these.
While I am at it....are the Canon camera profiles I downloaded for the 1Ds MKII the same as for the 5D MKII or do I have to download different one...I suspect they are the same or Lightroom wouldn't offer them to me...is that correct?
The profiles are different for each camera model, even if they share the same name in the Calibration panel. If you can see them when developing 5DII files, it means the camera-specific profiles are installed for your particular camera model (otherwise, you wouldn't see them).

Z1 camera vs z camera, lacks white balance

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