Z68A-GD65 (G3) build in progress, have a driver question

First, everything works so far. Have installed most drivers, all windows updates.
Have some misc driver questions not covered in MSI docs or driver WWW page.
Question: MSI's list of updated drivers for this MB includes the following.
Note that the title doesn't list Z68 (typo, or ?), so should I install this driver?
  Title: Intel Management Engine Driver for P67/H67
  Description: System & Chipset Drivers
  Ver: 7.0.10.1203
  Date: 2011-03-11
  http://us.msi.com/product/mb/Z68A-GD65--G3-.html#/?div=Driver&os=All
Also, I did not install the following driver:
   Intel Rapid Storage Technology Floppy Driver (F6)
Reason: no floppy in system (whats a floppy? )
Should I install this for some other reason?
Thanks for a great forum.

Strictly speaking all the needed drivers should be on your DVD. You can always update them with the drivers on the MSI site if they are later ones and you have issues, otherwise the drivers that shipped with the board should be fine.
Here is a bit of history on floppy drives http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floppy_disk
Yes, some people still use them.
Quote
Floppy disks are used for emergency boots in aging systems lacking support for other bootable media, and for BIOS updates since most BIOS and firmware programs can still be executed from bootable floppy disks. If BIOS updates fail or become corrupt, floppy drives can be used to perform a recovery

Similar Messages

  • MOVED: MSI Z68A-GD65 (B3) and x64 2008 Server Sound Driver

    This topic has been moved to Windows 64bit.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=153131.0

    Well like I said from what I understand, the NDIS is a driver protocols part of windows and that device is causing the NDIS to affect the USB system.
    There are quite a few references to this issue on technet and most end with replaced pcie wireless card and the issue went away.
    You coud try a different driver probably best to contact both MSI & Qualcomm.
    >>How to contact MSI.<<
    Also, visit technet.com, this is a problem with many wireless card apparently. Some people that were able to get their wireless card working with default win 7 drivers had the problem go away.
    www.technet.com

  • Z68a-gd65 (G3) + 280x = no signal

    I bought this new gpu XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Edition (R9-280X-TDFD) and when i plug it and power on my pc the fans start running and all led's is on but there is no signal output to my monitor.
    I have tried changeing pcie-slot and i have made sure several times that its pluged in correctly and i have also tried different cables (dvi, dp and hdmi).
    I've found severel others with the same problem by using google and its seem like most of them was helped by updating bios on their motherboard, which in my case is MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3). But i have also tried this but its still not working. (v. 25.8 from msi webpage)
    At this point I decided too try it out using an other computer with a new 4970k I7 from intel and a newer motherboard and it worked instantly and fine. But when i connect it in my pc again : NO SIGNAL.
    Does anyone know what the problem is? Do i need an other version of bios?
    I've also seen others with this problem that solved it by a simple bios update + switching from UEFI to LEGACY on the GPU (but my graphiccard does not have that switch).
    Please help me! My 26 year old hair is turning gray.

    Quote from: Chike on 26-February-15, 23:37:29
    Is there no signal on the build in graphic either?
    Im not totally sure of what you're asking me. But.. All that happens is that the monitor signals No signal and bios wont load. I know this cause when i push the start button on my chassi the computer instantly turns off
    Quote from: Svet on 26-February-15, 23:39:04
    ask XFX if they can provide you with legacy vbios for your card
    I have started a support ticket on XFX's webpage but i havent yet got any replies. I will update it asking for Legacy Vbios aswell.
    Somewhat off topic but what is this legacy vbios. How does it compare too the "uefi" kind. Is it a far more simple bios?

  • Power on-off-on Problems with New Build Z68A-GD65(G3)

    I'm hoping someone has seen these issues and can help me, although I realize this is a vague issue. I'm working on a new build. On power up everything looks good but then I get a power off and back on (like a reset). Sometimes it happens very quickly; other times it will stay on for roughly 5-10 minutes before the reset. I've checked all the connectors, case wires look ok, BIOS info looks correct.
    The other issue is that when I tried to do the Win 7 install, it loads the files, goes to the "Starting Windows" screen, and freezes there (until the next power off problem shuts things down).
    Any ideas on what to try to narrow things down?  Seems like it almost has to be the power supply or motherboard? 

    Quote from: Henry on 28-October-11, 09:54:40
    You have more than a Z68A-GD65(G3), please list he rest of your components. See my signature below for example of what to list.
           >> Posting Guide <<
    I've disconnected everything but the mouse, keyboard and monitor and still have the power resets.
    Tried one memory module at a time... still fails.
    Played with lower memory freq settings... still fails.
    Finally pulled the MB out, bench tested it to rule out shorting in the case; tried it with and without other peripherals... still fails.
    I think I'll RMA the MB, although I suppose it could be the psu (unlikely, I'd think).
    I had two bad motherboards in my last build. I had hope that MSI would be better... 

  • Z68A-GD65 (G3) issues.

    I'll start with my build,
    Z68A-GD65 Gen 3
    i5 2500k under Noctura NH-D14
    16GB G.Skill DDR3 1333 CL9 1.5V
    MSI R6950 Twin Frozr II 2GB
    Crucial M4 128GB SSD (in 1st intel sata 3 port)
    Antec HCP 850w
    Bios 23.3 (or whatever, I'm on phone at work)
    A few issues;
    I can't OC. If I try an oc, it boots, I get splash screen for msi, then hangs with blinking underscore. Even if I match oc genie setting for setting in standard mode. Using auto etc, set v core way high (like 1.4 for a mild 4.2 oc) it just seems to hang. I'm guessing something to do with the sata 3 controller, since I'm booting off ssd
    Last night I started PC, went to bathroom, came back and it was loop booting. I hard powered it off, and restarted. OC failed, and that was oc genie at 4.2.
    PC won't wake up from sleep. Have to hard power off (hold power button down) then restart and it resumes windows. Mouse and two diff keyboards won't wake it (performance mx mouse, g510 keyboard, and ps2 dell keyboard.)
    G510 won't enter bios, have to use dell ps2 keyboard.
    If in OC genie, or trying oc in standard mode, system double posts. Starts, runs 4-5sec (no display), powers down, starts back up and runs fine for hours (except the one oc fail on genie)
    Any ideas on any of it?

    No, thats the last official release. There has been a host of beta BIOS releases since. I just flashed to the latest .N48 today and I must say, I am very happy with the stability I now have.
    If you intend to flash, use the forum flasher. >>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<
    Do a full CMOS clear after flashing >>Clear CMOS Guide<<
    Also you will need to ensure that you set your BIOS back to AHCI, if you did that before installing the OS.
    I further suggest you remove all RAM except one stick in the slot closest to the CPU before the BIOS flash. Only put the other RAM back after you have been through one boot cycle.

  • Z68A-GD65 (G3) Component Advice

    I am in the process of putting together my first PC and look like getting a Z68A-GD65 (G3) board.
    The CPU will be a i5 2500K, but I would like some advice regarding ram and the CPU cooler. I intend just using the O/C button on the board method of over clocking as I am new to over clocking. I will be adding 8 gig system ram. What ram have people been using that causes no problems.
    With regard to the CPU cooler I have read a few reviews where the bottom support bracket on the back of the board fouls with one on the board heat sink mounting screws. From the pictures one screw is close the the mounting hols.
    The cooler I am thinking of is the Noctua NH-C12P, but it has quiet a big back plate. The other one I am looking at is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. I tend to like coolers that have back plates and screws to mount them rather than push pins as they are easier to reuse and mount firmly.
    Are these coolers good enough for my overclocking needs. I hope the auto overclock will give me just over 4 gig which will be fine for me.
    For the case I will use a HAF X or a Corsair model, should have enough airflow.
    So what ram have people used with this board that overclocks well and does not cause reboots during the overclocking process, and of course the CPU cooler.
    This is my first full build, and first go at overclocking so I am looking at compatibility and reliability over performance, and I do not need a big overclock for my needs. This is  a build mainly for FSX flight simulator.
    Also from reading some posts here I will need to flash the BIOS as well. The process described here to flash the BIOS seems complicated to what I have done in the past which has been on gigabyte boards only. I used to just download a small exe and run it from within windows. Is that possible with this board as I do not understand the process from what I have read here in the forums?
    I presume my choice of mother board from the MSI range is right from my needs, if not please recommend what I should be using.
    Any advice will be appreciated.
    Regards MarkL

    Quote from: HU16E on 10-March-12, 20:18:08
    Zalman 9900 series. Copper version up to the Max-B. Superior cooling ability. No blocked dimm slots & no mount hole problems. As for RAM, Corsair GT's, Vengeance, or Dominators are my brand of choice. DDR3 1333 is the platforms CPU IMC native supported RAM speed, & testing has proved RAM speed above 1600 is mostly a waste of time & money for a gaming rig, with only a slight performance gain when rendering. The most trouble free RAM will be kits that properly default to the 1333 speed. X.M.P. can be used, or manual settings above 1333 can be tried.
    That choice of mainboard should serve your requirement quite nicely.
    I have a question about the memory. I have been looking at the Corsair Vengeance range that I can buy online in Australia and they all seem to be 1600 not 1333.
    PC Case Gear seems to have the best range, but they are inconsistent in the way they give the specs, at least to my understanding which is next to nothing.
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=186_218_1125
    The closest I can see is the "Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M4A1600C9 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3" kit.
    This kit has a SPD speed of 1333, speed rating of PC3 12800 (1600 MHz) and a tested speed of 1600. Voltage is 1.5v
    Is the SPD rating the most important? If the SPD is 1333 is this the memories real speed?
    Most of the memory they do not give the XPD speed but mention it has a XMP profile for overclocking.
    Very confusing. I must admit that in the past I have just purchased the value range when upgrading and have had no idea what I have really purchased.
    The Dominators are out of my price range but all seem to be much higher specked than the vengeance series.
    Is the "Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M4A1600C9 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3" kit OK for my needs?
    One thing building your own PC, you start to learn a little more and realise the value of forums like these and how little you really know.
    Regards MarkL

  • Using the Z68A-GD65 board with graphics card and Lucid Virtual Driver

    Edit:  I found the online manual for Lucid, so the main question is answered (where to plug in the monitor).  However, I'd appreciate tips or suggestions on how to use this new technology.
    I play a few games, burn/rip blu-rays, but mostly use Photoshop.  The latest Photoshop and Win7 both use the processing power of a discrete graphics card.  However, I'm going to install an i7 2600k which also has the graphics built into it.  I understand the Lucid software allows video processing with the i7 and gaming with the discrete card.  It sounds as though "i-mode" is the way to go, but are there any drawbacks?  
    Also, while I have your attention, here's my planned build, and I'd appreciate any recommendations/suggestions.  Thanks for the help.
    Win7 Pro
    Z68A-GD65
    Intel i7 2600k
    16 gigs of Corsair Vengeance Low Profile (1600)
    EVGA GTX 560Ti
    Crucial SSD 128gig SATA III (for the boot drive)
    Plus, all the leftover gear from the old build (BD drive, 3 hard drives, OZC 700w psu)

    Thanks for your feedback .

  • Z68A-GD65 G3 Reboot Loop

    I'm putting together a new build and I've run into a reboot loop.  When I attempt to start it up, it runs for about 5 seconds, then turns off.  This goes on in an endless loop.  It never gets to POST.  The 6 LEDs light up and the BIOS ones don't (so this appear normal).  I have never gotten a successful bootup.
    My setup:
    Motherboard: Z68A-GD65 G3
    CPU: Intel Core i5, i5-2500K
    Memory: Kingston HyperX (4x4GB DDR3 - 1600 CL9 240)
    Power Supply: OCZ ZX Series 850W
    CPU Cooling: Xigmatek Gaia SD1283
    I am not listing anything else, because I am not getting far enough for it to matter.
    I am running with only the above pieces connected to rule out all but the essentials.
    I've inspected the CPU and slot.  Both appear fine.
    I've cleared the CMOS using the button on the I/O panel and removing the battery.
    I've subbed out the Power Supply.
    Only the 8 pin CPU and 24 pin motherboard connections are made.
    I've tried various things with the RAM.  All 4, just 2, and just 1 (in the DIMM1 slot).  Most testing was done with just 1.  I have tried all 4 in the DIMM1 slot.
    I've removed it from the case and booted it up in the cardboard box (nonconducting) it came in, to rule out a short.
    I've inspected the motherboard carefully, no obvious issues.
    I've checked that the CPU cooler is making good contact with the CPU.
    I've verified that the OC button is not active, although I've tried that too.
    I've read through the forums, but have not been able to find a solution that works.
    Please help.  Thanks.

    I had this very same problem with a Biostar T-POWER I55 2 years ago, to cut a story short the retailer and the distributor who handled Biostar RMA's rejected the RMA.
    I spoke to Trading Standards/Consumer Direct as I read in the Sales Act that in the first 6 months of a purchase if the damage cannot be proven to be done by the end user then a warranty claim still exists.
    Finally after stating this & quoting the Trading Standards Reference number to the retailer, I got a call from them saying they would offer a refurbished motherboard worth £113, my original motherboard cost £138 so I refused this & asked if they would agree if I could purchase a brand new alternative for (£75ish) around 50% of its purchase value to which after another day they rang back & agreed.
    You are not the first and won't be the last this has happend too, One manufacturer will cover for warranty in these circumstances because I asked them.
    I suppose you could get a 2 year warranty via Amazon, small expense for peace of mind which covers you for Accidental damage as well as mechanical failure, quite good if the  motherboard pins snap off the motherboard.
    Click >> SquareTrade 2-Year Warranty Plus Accident Protection (£150-175 Items) £29.99
    The above only complys to people in the UK, other countrys have different sales of goods act laws.

  • Z68A-GD65(G3) Planning to RAID 0 & 1

    I am planning a new desktop system custom build in the new few weeks. Working from home the system needs to be both suitable for development and for gaming.
    The plan I currently have is to use a Z68A-GD65(G3) motherboard. The detailed specs list 4 x SATA III connections.
    So Im looking to:
    2 x SSD SATA III drives in RAID 0 for boot and software installs (games and apps).
    2 x HDD SATA III drives in Raid 1 for protection and some speed boost.
    Would that work?
    Opinions?
    Im debating whether to add a SATA III Raid controller card. If I do that I dont necessarily need a 4 x SATA III motherboard.

    the GD65 (G3) has 4 sata III ports but only 2 on the Intel side the other 2 are on the marvel sata III controller.
    I would recommend just putting them all on the intel side the SSDs on port 1 and 2 (sataIII intel) and the other drives on sata II intel side, if you are running raid 1 performance of raid 1 on 2 spinny drives should not excede the sata II speed. my raid 0 on 2 WD 1tb drives on the sata II intel ports reads and writes are around 276meg/sec.
    The marvel controller was around 250meg/sec I am no expert but I think it does not get the priority the intel ports do or has more overhead or something smart like that.
    Also I am not impressed with the performance or the software on the marvel controller.
    thats my experience with this board just got it tho, logged in here to post for some help with that marvel controller for hotswap Esata drive.
    Good Luck other then that love this board so far.

  • MSI Z68a GD65 G3 Buzzing noise of hard drive over speakers

    I finished building system
    MSI Z68a GD65 G3
    Fractal design define  r3 case
    Core i7 2600k
    2x MSI N460GTX 1Gd5 OC
    16 gb DDR3 Ram
    Corsair HX 850w PSU
    CORSAIR GT3 90 gb ssd
    Logitech Z5300 speaker set 5.1
    +bunch of samsung 1 tb spinpoints
    I noticed when i scrolled with my mouse wheel up or down, i hear a interfering noise low buzzing noise over the speakers 5.1 which are conected to on board sound card.
    When i connect my headphone the sound still exists
    It also occurs when i start up some applications and the hard drive is busy.
    I tried enable/disable eup2013 and c1 and intel c1 etc... nothing works
    With or without overclock it doesn matter.
    Does anybody have a suggestion how to fix this problem? Thank you! Please help;-)

    Sounds like a bad earth somewhere.
    Is that a wired mouse ? Have you tried another mouse and keyboard ?
    Can you test the board outside the case, on a non-conducting surface. No device used for the test to be mounted in the case.

  • P67A GD65 System build First startup goes into restart loop

    I just build a p67a GD65 System i am an experienced system builder testing out on a cardboard surface after the system would not boot.
    Using corsair Vengence ddr 3 ram
    Coolmaster silent pro 800 W power supply
    Hyper 212 plus cooler
    2600k processor
    After the continuous loop i tested power supplies swapped them and got the same problem
    Then i got a clean cardboard box and started troubleshooting now the system, even barebone with the essential hardware only won't boot at all I do however see the green power light go on and OC genie light, light up when i press the power button but the system won't budge, I'm wondering if this is a bad processor or motherboard? I am leaning towards a bad mobo as these problems with this particular MSI board have been rampant.
    Just to add none of the bios LED's light up.

    Quote from: crxer on 16-September-11, 04:44:54
    I just build a p67a GD65 System i am an experienced system builder testing out on a cardboard surface after the system would not boot.
    After the continuous loop i tested power supplies swapped them and got the same problem
    Then i got a clean cardboard box and started troubleshooting now the system, even barebone with the essential hardware only won't boot at all I do however see the green power light go on and OC genie light, light up when i press the power button but the system won't budge, I'm wondering if this is a bad processor or motherboard? I am leaning towards a bad mobo as these problems with this particular MSI board have been rampant.
    Just to add none of the bios LED's light up.
    I have a question crxer, does the OC Genie Light come on and stay on, or does it turn off? If it stays on then you have the OC Genie Button pushed in and you're trying to overclock the system right off the bat which you don't want to do, and that could be why the constant power cycling because of an OC failure.
    Not that this is similar to your problem, but I had a Z68A-GD65(B3) which gave me nothing but problems with overclocking and the the dual bios feature. I would get the power on recycling a few times every time I tried any OC and reboot whether by using the OC Genie button or manual OC, but it would then eventually boot. Mine would also give me the Bios LED coming on in all the different configurations telling me the primary bios failed or secondary or both but I was always able to re-flash the primary bios and the board was never bricked. You're not having that problem thank goodness.
    I am a very experienced builder and troubleshooter and tried everything to isolate the problem and make that Z68A board work, but to no avail, which is why I returned it to Newegg and replaced it with a MSI P67A-GD55(B3) shown in my signature, which is similar to your GD65 and it works perfectly with all the same components as I used on the Z68A-GD65(B3), and I have it manually OC'd it to 4.3 Ghz which is good enough for now. Good luck crxer. 

  • Economic overclock for my z68a-gd65.

    Hello there.
    I've got the combination of a MSI z68a-gd65 3rd gen mb, Intel core i5 2500k, 8gb kingston hyperx ddr3, 2x sapphire hd68501gb, Corsair hx750 psu.
    I had it running at around 4.4 ghz for a long time, but i had to reset the bios 'cause i messed up abit. Now i've only oc'd it to 3.8, and it does not clock itself down as it used to. it's constantly on 38x multiplier. It's not like it gets hot, low temps on idle, and cpu fans on 12%, no prob.
    I'd very much like a system that's clocked to around 4.5 and clocks itself down when it's idling, OR, a system with a standard 33x multiplier, which uses turboboost to get to around 4.5 when needed, and still clocks down to 16x when idle..
    Tried this: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18340310 But it didn't work, it was just on 16x nomatter what i did.
    i'm not completely new and irresponsible, but i'm not a oc guru either, so i'd like some help for a bios "build" ..
    thanks in advance.

    Just a few things to check that I know of:
    -Did you enable C states? (E.g. C state set to no limit)
    -Did you enable EIST?
    -Did you enable Turbo boost?
    -Did you set all Core ratio Limit's to a multiplier of e.g. 45? (4.5GHz)
    -Did you leave Adjust CPU Ratio on the default 34? (The 34 waaay on top of the pop-out menu)
    -Did you set CPU Phase Control [Intel SVID Mode]?
    Hope these will make a difference for you. From the link you've posted it seems you have, but a double check never hurts anyone.

  • Z68a gd65 g3, i2600k help please

    Trying to iron out bugs, I have bounced between throttling, or mem errors reported from IBT or Memtest.
    Cured mem errors from memtest (was failing test 3 and 5) with a dram voltage bump.
    Cant seem to get this stable for IBT, and it should be cakewalk, assuming nothing is fried.
    Pwr Supply : XFX Black Edition 850w
    MB : Z68A GD65 G3
    CPU : i2600k
    RAM : 2 x 4GB Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 (8-8-8-24-2T stuff)
    CPU HSF : Venomous X, 2 x 108cfm fans in push pull
    GFX Cards : 2 x evga gtx 470 w/Vantec hsf on both cards (have not begun to mess with gfx oc this build)
    Goals : 4ghz 24/7 stable lowest temps possible under load, HT on, and go from there.
    Considering in a HAF 922, and CPU HSF is decent, I had expected eventually to get to 4.4 and stay under 65c, somewhere around 1.3 vcore tops. I cant even get 4g stable. I have read some other threads here and tried settings, but not getting there on my own. Please help meh 

    I had not tried the auto oc yet, I will give it a try.
    I have been experimenting with the 2 newer bios files posted on msi site, not quite getting there.
    How is the auto oc feature with respect to voltages, and will it allow turbo/speedstep to function ?
    Just got done setting up for a family member, with a 2500k, on a <competitor> <<-self censor   z68 board, using c9 gskill and a downdraft style cpu fan.
    No trouble at all to get it running @ 4ghz, full load using 1.21vcore, and it stays 55-57 w one oddball core hitting 61.
    Of course, big differences are 999 vs 888 ram, 2 2gb sticks vs my 2 4gb, and I have HT. I did have to set manual vcore "fixed 1.22" on that setup, since it would run fine on "auto" voltage for cpu, but that board gave it ludicrous vcore on auto, well over 1.35, and of course allowing vdroop meant too low.
    For oc genie, do you refer to button on mb, or the bios tab ? I have not messed with either. As long as temps are ok and voltages are not crazy on the auto oc, 4.2 would do nicely for the time being, until i can find more info. I would like to make sure all is well and stable, before I try popping in SSD I have sitting here. I do not want to go through trouble of fresh install, etc, just to realize im borked anyhow due to not understanding the sandybridge, or some quirk of bios/ram/etc etc.
    Thanks for the quick reply! Ill try it out, and keep reading what I find here
    edit: i have not yet tried relaxing ram timings or running it at 1333, could that be the issue ? Id rather keep 888, than 1600 mhz, if i had to choose
    edit #2 - Specifics on what I think is "wrong" : 1) Prime 95 Blend - CPUZ shows consistent 40x multi, Prime 95 Inplace large FFT (max power heat test) shows throttling down as far as 35x, never seen any system do that to me. 2) No errors in memtest but IBT crashes on 3rd run, set at 8 threads, custom 2560mb test
    Just realized I did not completely clean off remnants of previous manufacturers MB (also z68, but doa ram channel A), I could see that causing instability, but not throttling. Still I feel like a tool for not wiping the OS partition and going clean, so ill be doing that immediately. Please in the mean time, toss me the tips, or a link to the "read this ya nub" thread :P.

  • Z68A-GD65-G3 SLI black screen lock ups

    Let me start off by saying I have tried everything and I motivate everyone to prove me wrong and provide me with a solution to this issue.
    System spex:
    MSI z68A GD65 G3 
    2600k
    Corsair XMS3 1600 16GB
    Corsair AX1200
    2 - EVGA GTX 580 3GB SLI
    Running beta bios: E7681IMS.N49 from -> https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=151148.msg1144560#msg1144560
    I have tried almost every BIOS under the sun, including "standard bios" ie flash back to factory BIOS
    So here is the issue:
    In order to run SLi I have to be at completely stock settings, if I even up the multiplier to x35 on my CPU I black screen as soon as I bench/game on the cards. If I bench only the CPU (prime95) it is fine and no issues. but again as soon as I loud up something graphics wise the screen goes black and locks up.
    It isn't the cards either, each card has been tested on its own and in different PCs in SLi.
    It is like the motherboard cant handle the power??????
    Someone else has to be overclocking and running two power house cards like this without issues? right?  what did they do different? what settings? am I missing something?
    Or do I need to contact MSI and get a RMA in process.
    Before adding the extra card I had my CPU @ 4.7Ghz and when I would bench it I would take it to 5Ghz+ without a issue... solid, never had a BSOD. but this extra card just kills the systems.
    Again everything set to stock and the system runs great I can game on it for hours without issues.
    Thanks
    Nick

    Quote from: Bernhard on 30-December-11, 00:22:38
    I am not running your PSU down, don't get me wrong. You have the best PSU by general consensus. All I am suggesting is to check it in another system under similar OC conditions with approx the same specs.
    It does fine with SLI non OC, yet when you add the extra load of OC, and that can be an additonal 50 to 100W, then the PC becomes problematic.
    It could be something else, but one has to start eliminating potential culprits.
    Edit: Did you install Virtu ? If so, have you tried deleting it again for a test ?
    Oh I understand completely and thank you for your suggestion and time, it helps me to believe that it could be my PSU even more, I am borrowing a PSU from a friend and a PSU tester from work and tonight will get a chance to do some full testing on the PSU.
    If that tests out ok I will pull my PSU out and RMA it. hopefully Corsair will have a quick turn around.
    Virtu isn't installed, I will double check but it was disabled in BIOS, but i have reset my BIOS so many times I will make sure it still is.
    I will report back with my findings.

  • Raid mode very slow/ crashing after installing driver (Z68A-GD65 (G3))

    I recently purchased a Z68A-GD65 (G3) motherboard, i5-2500K, 8 gb ram, and a Crucial 64GB 4m SSD drive. The intention was to use the SSD drive for Intel Smart Response Tech.
    Instructions tell me to place the SATA ports in RAID mode, which I did. During installation of Windows 7 (64-bit), I provided the "F6" raid drivers which installed. After that point, my hard drive (a WD 250GB SATAII drive) begins to perform incredibly slow. Once Windows 7 installs, which takes way longer than it should, Windows has problems booting and won't work properly.
    I tried installing Windows 7 without the "F6" raid drive on install and that worked fine. Everything seemed to be working great. I then installed the Intel Rapid Storage Tech software and rebooted. Now my system is acting up again. It takes far longer to boot, it shuts down as soon as it boots, and it has even blue screened on boot. It is very unstable.
    My SSD is unplugged during all of this. I'm just trying to get Windows 7 to run properly on my one mechanical drive in raid mode.
    Do I have a bad motherboard? Anyone have any ideas?
    Edit: I'm not using the Marvell ports. The hard drive works fine in IDE/ACHI modes... I've been using it for years.
    Thanks

    So it turned out that the issue was the hard drive itself. It had been running flawlessly for years as my system drive. However, the Intel iastor driver exposed a hidden issue with the drive.
    I decided to check the Windows system event log for any clues. In there I saw errors with event id 9 on iastor. They were lined up with the times of the hangs and blue screens. Solutions I found online for this issue did not help. Luckily I have two hard drives in my system, although they are both the same model. I moved my data around and clean installed Windows on the other drive instead. The hangs and blue screens are no longer occurring.

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