Z77A-GD65 + i5 2500K Overclocking - How to start?

Hey guys,
I'm new here, nice to meet you all
I just got my board a few days ago and installed everything, I have a brand new i5 2500K along with 8GB of 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 sticks, my CPU cooler is the Zalman CNPS10X Extreme and I wanna start overclocking.
I have a lot of experience in overclocking Gigabyte boards, but never MSI boards, so the first things I did were to:
1. Disable EIST
2. Disable Intel C-State
3. Disable C1E
4. Disable Overspeed Protection
5. Set CPU Ratio (Multiplier) manually to 33
6. Set memory frequency manually to 1600MHz instead of Auto
Haven't touched Load Line Calibration (Vdrop) settings or any other settings yet.
Since this is a Sandy Bridge and the memory runs on 100MHz constantly, is there any need to fiddle with any more memory settings?
Also, are there any additional settings I need to enable/disable in the BIOS before I start increasing the multiplier? Basically I'm looking for a set of optimized settings you need to set in order to get your overclock started.
I'd love to get an explanation on the board voltages as well as they are different than the ones I had in my old EP45-UD3P.
Thanks for your help

Hi Thanks for the reply,
Yes, I am aiming for an everyday overclock with fairly low voltages, I wanna take the CPU to around 4.7-4.8 if possible but I'll settle for 4.5-4.6 if I get any voltage limitations or BSODs. I don't plan to exceed 1.4 Vcore and I don't mind about the eco-power settings being disabled, but if I can achieve a steady OC with them, then that's fine of course.
Mainly for gaming and viewing HD contents with high quality renderers, plus it's fun
First thing I want to set is the memory, I read here that I should set the memory to 1300-MHz at first and then set the timings manually:
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html
But the board has many timing settings which I don't wanna touch since I'm not sure which ones are correct, my timings are 9-9-9-24, please tell me which values I need to change exactly to get started and should I set the memory to 1333 or 1600?
Secondly, do I simply start with increasing the multi to say 40 and stress test on stock voltages? Do I need to hard set these values or leave them on Auto? Or do I crank up the voltage from the beginning?
BTW my PSU is a Seasonic X-650 80+ Gold so no issue with power
Thanks again

Similar Messages

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    Greetings.
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    Quote from: RemusM on 16-January-14, 00:14:15
    The internet is bloated with paid "reviews" ...
    Here is what you have and what you paid for:
    http://ark.intel.com/products/65520
    Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type) : 32 GB
    Memory Types : DDR3-1333/1600
    Memory Channels : 2
    Max Memory Bandwidth : 25.6 GB/s
    Intel does not guarantee anything above 1600MHz.
    On the top of that, 25.6 GB/s bandwidth is enough for DDR3-1600 in dual-channel only.
    In other words, above 1600Mhz the perfomances boost is close to ZERO.
    RAM speed over 1600Mhz does nothing? That WAS true, but not anymore. First of this:
    Anandtech:
    http://www.anandtech.com/show/6372/memory-performance-16gb-ddr31333-to-ddr32400-on-ivy-bridge-igp-with-gskill
    xbitlabs:
    http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/memory/display/ivy-bridge-ddr3.html
    overclock.net:
    http://www.overclock.net/t/1438222/battlefield-4-ram-memory-benchmark
    Second, I can messure a real performance difference when using this memory at 2400mhz vs 1600mhz, f.i. Winrar5.01 x64, when searching in reg.database, and other memoryhungry programs. My graphic-card is not powerfull enough to show any difference in games, but almost anything else I _can_ se a difference.
    If you honestly can read these 3 links and still say, that memory speed does not matter, I think I know more about this than you 
    I'm quite sure, that a big place like Anandtech is not payed to show up this result.

  • [SOLVED] motherboard MSI Z77A-GD65 error code B2

    hello,
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    NOTHING .......................... I do not understand

    Reading A0, it is at the point of OS loading. A0 is not an error.
    Quote from: rastababy972 on 28-October-12, 07:07:05
    I tried and I get an error A0 or A2 but nothing on the screen (my screen turns off after a while because no signal)
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  • Steps And Explain How To OverClock MB:Z77a-gd65 Cpu:I7 3770k Ram:2x4(8gb) 2133

    Steps And Explain How To OverClock and tell us why we enabled and disabled option and voltage and shortcut means ex: ( EIST )
    Board     : MSI Z77A-GD65
    VGA        : gigabyte 570 soc
    V-Bios     : 10.8
    PSU         : huntkey 700w
    CPU        : Intel Core I7-3770K
    MEM       : gskill 2133 2x4gb F3-17000CL9D-8GBXM http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=403
    HDD        : corsair force 3 SSD 60gb on(OS) 
    Cooler    : corsair H100
    OS          : Win 8 Pro 64bit
    Case      : bitfenix.Colossus
     

    Quote
    Spread Spectrum ---Disable--- why
    Spread Spectrum is for unique situation where there are TONS of computers in close proximity and is used to prevent them from interfering with each other via emf. It is also less stable.
    Quote
    Q2 :Intel Turbo Boost ---enbled--- why
    This would be enabled when using a turbo oc. It boosts the cpu multiplier when under load.
    Quote
    Q3 :Enhanced Turbo------ enbled----why
    Enhances turbo operation by increasing the multiplier on all of the cores to the same amount.
    Quote
    Q4 :intrnal pll overvoltage -----enbled---- why
    You can leave this on "auto" for most everyday overclocks. It increase voltage to the PLL a tab but can cause issues with sleep if you are using an everyday OC.

  • Overclocking the i7 3770K on Z77A-GD65 MB. HELP ME MY NEW FRIENDS!!!

    Hi everybody! I really truly hope that someone can help me. I have tried to look EVERYWHERE with no good results... :(
    I have a new Z77A-GD65 motherboard and an Intel 3770K processor running on it and I am trying to OVERCLOCK my system properly. You might think that who the hell is this bozo if he cannot overclock with the manuals and all..
    Anyway, I really never have gone deeper into overclocking and I would sooooo much like to have a PRESET file (BIOS settings) which could give me about 4.5-4.8GHz frequency and then my memory is a whole another issue. I am able to run it at 1,6GHz anyway but I'd like to try more.
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    I know I would have to set some voltages and factors at various points but I find it too complicated. ASUS had a software that you could choose "turbo profile auto overclock" and that software just adjusted voltages and frequencies automatically, rebooting every once in a while until the system came unstable and it applied the latest stable settings. MSI should have that kind of an over-clocking software too!
    So could you please reply for me stupid one and tell me that how should I overclock my system. Meaning all the possible settings that you could imagine. I have tried Googling of all the weird C1E's and C-states and HPET's and everything but it's just a mess. I just would like to get as much power out of my PC as possible. Period. I really would appreciate all kind of help.
    And yeah, one more thing;;; when I have this MSI Control Center installed in OS then will it kind of "override" the BIOS settings done when booting up? I'm asking a lot of stupid questions but I have struggled with my new PC for four straight days and nights and my brains are starting to melt....
    PLEASE::::
    - give me the multipliers
    - voltages
    - other settings (like power settings)
    - DRAM timing mode and frequencies
    - EIST on/off?
    - Turbo mode on/off?
    - Enhanced turbo??
    - ANYthing you can ever think of.
    I'll humbly wait for a reply. Thanks for reading.
       -Tommi

    Quote from: Froggy Gremlin on 25-September-12, 04:28:27
    There are a number of OC threads here to give some basics. First off, learn what the limits are for voltages, etc. Intel datasheets & design guides are a great source. I will give you two voltage limits, 1 - DRAM V. = don't exceed 1.65v's, 2 - CPU V. = for an everyday OC, don't exceed 1.400v's. Get yourself a digital multimeter. There are several OC methods, so pick the one right for your needs.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=159647.0
    It's a good start  thanks to Froggygremlin.
    Btw if I may to add tips : try to overclock processor first with memory stay on default speed if we feels it is stable enough and want some more then go with the memory 

  • Msi Z77A-GD65 Does't start at all

    hello !
     I got my msi Z77a-GD65 yesterday and a I5 2500k;I tried to see if they work.
    1- i Discharged my self.
    2-got the MB out of the box put it on the electrostatique bag and on the box.
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    4-installed the RAM (1 stick of g skill ripjaws x 1600mhz 2 gb) on DIMM1.
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    please help.
    Also there is a julper named JSVID1 right by the VRM heatsink it is not mentionned on the manual what does it do?

    Quote from: HU16E on 30-April-12, 06:17:28
    Also recommend to get a quality +12V single rail PSU.
    Get at least a 80 plus certificated power supply, that is for energy efficiency certification but also means quality (not always by some unreliable brands).
    Dint knew that i could advice brands, some support forums are quite picky even if that isn't write in the rules. So here it goes, Corsair, Antec, CoolerMaster, Silverstone, Enermax, Seasonic, NZXT, XFX, Super Flower, FSP. All these are good and reliable Power Supply brands.
    Now you only need to see how much watts you need for your system, this one is simpler to use http://www.corsair.com/learn_n_explore/?psu=yes, next one more accurate but a little more complex http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

  • Overclocking the z77a-gd65 board

    Hello my new found friends (I hope).I am new to both these forums and overclocking but I'm willing to learn. I have a msi z77a-gd65 mobo, 32 gigs crucial memory with an i7 3770k cpu rated at 3.5 GHz. I also have a corsair H80i cpu liquid cpu cooler.  Right now the cpu is running at 4.2 GHz but I would like to try to go higher manually if I can. If any body can help with easy  to follow instructions on how to do this I will be extremely grateful.  

    I recommend searching the threads that specialize in the 'Turbo' OC method. Ivy CPU's are not super OC'ers on conventional cooling solutions, but excellent performance can be pulled out of them in the 44X-45X range and still keep all the power saving features intact as well. CPU V. left alone to work on Auto is recommended. Initially for testing, set VDRoop to 100%. Disable EuP 2013, Overspeed Protection, and Spread Spectrum.

  • How I Re-Unlocked My CPU Multiplier - Z77A-GD65

    This whole inconvenience started when I flashed to the latest BIOS for my board. I was curious about the "- Support Windows8 feature" that it had in the description, and so I went for it. Previously, I had already updated my BIOS to version 10.6 without a problem.
    After completing the BIOS update, I went into the Click-BIOS II and explored the new options. Boo! Nothing that really benefited me or that seemed "cool" so I just went on with my day. I started to notice that my game (League of Legends) was loading a little slower than before, and that's when I remembered that I had not reset the overclocking options that I had before. I went back into the BIOS and tried to reset my options. No go! Oh, wait! OC Genie! Nope! Flash backup BIOS! Nope, nope, nope! My CPU was hopelessly limited to a multiplier setting range of 16-38.
    There are many things that I read and tried that didn't give me back the option to go beyond a multiplier setting of 38, but I will not discuss those now, unless someone asks. Therefore, the following is the exact process that I used that finally allowed me to fully re-unlock my CPU multiplier settings.
    Hardware Specs:
    Motherboard: Z77A-GD65
    CPU: Core i5-3570K
    Memory: 8GB Corsair Dominator 1866
    Boot HD: Samsung 830 Series SSD
    OS: Windows 8 Pro 64-bit
    GPU: MSI nVidia 660-Ti OC
    What that you will need:
    PATIENCE!
    Beverage of Choice (Coffee, Beer, Tea, etc...) - VERY IMPORTANT
    USB Stick Drive (FAT32, Quick Format)
    BIOS Versions: 10.3, 10.5, 10.6 - You can put them all on the USB stick at the same time.
    About 1 Hour
    These instructions assume that you are starting from BIOS version 10.7 (like I did), but they may work even if you are not currently on that version.
    Step 1: Double clear CMOS memory - While machine is turned off and unplugged, hold the "Clear_CMOS" button for 10 seconds. Next, remove the battery (in front of PCIE Slot 1 under dedicated graphics card (in case you forgot ^_^)). Walk away and get a second serving of your favorite beverage. Rum and coke FTW!
    Step 2: Put CMOS battery back into its place.
    If you have NOT touched (flashed) your backup BIOS then follow instructions for 3A (This is what I did!). If you HAVE flashed it already, follow instructions for 3B.
    Step 3A1 : Set BIOS selector switch to 2nd bios (move it to the other side from where it was). Boot into BIOS settings, navigate to BIOS flash menu and select "MultiBIOS flash". It will prompt you if you want to restore the BIOS and select Yes. This will return the "primary" BIOS to the same version that you had on your second BIOS, provided that you have not touched your "backup" BIOS.
    Step 3A2: After your machine is done with flashing BIOS, it will restart and attempt to load the OS, it will most likely not find an OS. Go back into the BIOS and check your multiplier settings, mine was still limited to 38; if yours are back to normal and everything works for you and you don't mind being on version 10.3, then good job and you're done! Don't forget to have a good laugh and to feel good about yourself  . Otherwise, turn off your computer and for 10 seconds press and hold the "Clear_CMOS" button in the back.
    Step 3A3: Flash BIOS 10.3 over the restored primary BIOS and you should be able to recover the "UEFI Windows Boot Manager" option in the "UEFI" boot manager. Check BIOS settings again, my multiplier was still limited to 38. Go to Step 4.
    Step 4: Boot into Windows and reinstall the Intel ME drivers.If the driver installs okay then go to Step 5. If driver installation says "your hardware does not meet requirements", go to Step 4B.
    Step 4B: This happened to me at some point in trying to fix my BIOS, and so I'm covering it for those that might find themselves in the same situation right now. If the ME driver installation says that your computer does not meet the requirements, then that means that your ME firmware got wiped or corrupted. If you go into your BIOS and check your System Information, you will get the following screen. Where it says "ME Version" that will be blank, no number there. To fix it is quite simple, simply "Flash BIOS" version 10.6, reboot into BIOS and then select "Flash BIOS and ME", select version 10.6 (XXXXXXXX.A60) file.
    Step 5: Boot into BIOS, flash BIOS version 10.5, reboot into Windows, reinstall Intel ME drivers.
    Step 6: Repeat step 5 but this time flash BIOS (Not Flash BIOS and ME) version 10.6.
    Step 7: Boot into BIOS, and this time in the flash menu select "Flash BIOS AND ME", and select version 10.6".
    Step 8: Boot into BIOS and CONGRATULATIONS your CPU multiplier is back to normal.

    NOTE: You will not get the selection menu for the multiplier, but you can change it with + or -, or by typing in the number. Previously, any time I would type anything above 38, it would simply go to 38. Good luck!
    P.S.: I don't care much for stress testing my current OC setup because everything that I do works great (no errors/restarts for 4 months) and is not highly-hardware demanding for long periods of time. League of Legends max settings is easily handled by the hardware configuration and that's pretty much the most intense use that it gets.

  • Z77a-gd65 intel i5 2500k intel turbo boost

    I have just upgraded to z77a-gd65 for my Intel I5 2500 k
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    120 SSD
    Be quiet dark rock cooler pro
    Seagate HDD 2tb
    Tx 750 PSU
    MSI r7950 twin f
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    The other thing is my 12 volt is saying it down to 11.889 ish never had any of these problems with the last motherboard which was a p67a-gd65 b3
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    I can't remember what the + or - voltage variation is for +12V, but I don't think it is anything to be concerned about. Try a couple other utilities to check the CPU speed and temp/voltages. CPUID's CPU-Z and H/W Monitor are good ones.

  • Need to turn PSU switch off and on for PC to start - Z77A-GD65

    When i try to start the PC with the on/off button, it wont start at all. I have to switch on and off the PSU switch quickly a few times for it to suddenly start. Then when I set it in idle mode, the light flashes as it should, but when i press the on button again it turns completely off. I believe this is either a PSU issue or a motherboard issue. Other than that my PC works as it should. I would appreciate any help!
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    Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus MIDI Tower
    XFX ProSeries Black Edition 1250W PSU
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    XFX Radeon HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 (2x with crossfire)
    Windows 7 home premium 64-bit

    Quote from: eriick97 on 23-August-14, 03:29:37
    I bought it in 2012 so its still on warranty
    Great 
    Report back once you get it up working 
    Quote from: eriick97 on 23-August-14, 03:29:37
    Thanks for the help!

  • [help] Z77A-GD65 not starting fully

    ok so when i turn on the motherboard all the fans in my PC turn on and the LED1 light turns blue for about a second then everything shuts off. My power button stays green even when everything else shuts off and the alarm LED is OFF. I have tried re plugging everything in and am placing only one stick of RAM in the correct spot. here are my system specs:
    CPU: intel i5-2500 3.3 (3.7 turbo boost) i5-2500 Sandy Bridge
    GPU: GeForce GTX 560 - ASUS ENGTX560
    RAM: 8Gigs @ 1600 - G.Skill Ripjaws X Series
    PSU: 550w - XFX Core Edition Pro
    HDD: 500G @ 7200RPM - Seagate SpinPoint F3
    ssD: 60G @ 525MB/s read, 475MB/s write - OCZ Agility 3
    MotherBoard: MSI Z77A-GD65
    Tower: Corsair Carbide Series 400R
    OS: w7-64bit Home Premium
    DD: ASUS DRW DVD:RW

    Hi
    I just got that same board.
    If you keep looking at the Diagnostic display on the board while starting the PC, then just notice what the code is when it stops. The display should change code according to what init state its in.
    That way you can determine at what initialization step it fails. Check the manual for the error codes.
    For example if it stops at Cpu Initialization, there is a good chance that the CPU is faulty or simply overheating if cooler is not properly seated. From what you explain, it could sound like Overheating CPU.
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    You can also try the Bios switch to swap over to the backup Bios. In case the bios is corrupt.

  • [Z77A-GD65] How to edit UEFI boot entries?

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      Exactly what is the device?

  • Z77A-GD65 with 3770k & Kingston HyperX 2666mhz ratio stuck between 16&39

    Hello all, its been a while since i was last on the forum (and never on intel side lol).
    I upgraded my PC from an AMD 1100t msi 990fxa-gd65 to a I7-3770k on a z77a-gd65.
    Now all was working well from the start, i was able to overclock the RAM using the XMP profile both 1 and 2 (1= 2666mhz 2=2400mhz) and i was able to set a FIXED overclock of the CPU up to 4.6 stable.
    However i wanted more, just because my friends kept telling me it could do it. So i attempted 4.8ghz but with little success, (only 2400mhz RAM and wasnt happy with temps (90c)).
    So i thought maybe a bios update was in order, so i updated to A70 and began overclock attempts again. Now it let me have a good day of using the multiplier, first at x45 then x46 and so on to x48 (where it was unstable). Now after many attempts it no longer allows me to use a multiplier beyond x39. However the turbo will allow me to go up to x60.
    I have attempted using the reset CMOS button on the rear of the case, loading defaults within BIOS, reflashing older versions of the BIOS (back to A5 which is newer than the original). Non have worked, has anyone else run into this issue.

    Quote from: RemusM on 15-November-12, 19:14:37
    You should already start to save some bucks because you're going to "upgrade" the PC again.
    And very soon.
    How come? what is coming?
    Quote from: Bernhard on 15-November-12, 20:36:17
    Your friends neglected to tell you that you needs some pretty serious cooling for that amount of OC on an Ivy CPU.
    The fact that your BIOS multi is inhibited but the turbo multi still allows to set anything up to X60 may indicate a problem with the BIOS itself. Have you tried a full CMOS clear with battery removal ?
    Did you update the ME firmware at the same time?
    If it is the -GD65, have you tried the second BIOS by manually switching to it. That should still have your old BIOS, unless you flashed both.
    Don't worry we already decided to get one of the best air coolers Noctua NH-D14.
    However In you reply i see you mention the ME firmware, I haven't as i did not know what it was (i thought it best not to touch it unless i knew what it was).
    Also i'll whip out a GPU and do a battery pull for the CMOS then use the secondary bios if that fails. As i haven't flashed both (unless they get done at the same time.)
    lol just noticed my signature, it really has been a long time since i was last on. although i only just sold that PC off :D

  • Z77A-GD65 build won't post, I've tried everything I can think of...

    Hello all,
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    MSI Z77A-GD65 mobo
    Intel i5-3570K LGA 1155
    MSI N560GTX-TiHawk graphics card
    Samsung 30nm DDR3 RAM 2x 4gb
    Corsair H100 cooling
    Samsung 830SSD
    Silverstone ST1000 1000watt power supply (this and my HDD are the only components from my old build and the HDD isn't attached)
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    I followed multiple instructions to trouble shoot this problem and haven't gotten anywhere. I've tried with just the CPU, H100 and a stick of RAM and still get the same issue. I've tried both sticks separately in each socket and had the same issue, as well as a completely different set of sticks. I've switch the CPU cooler from the H100 to the stock one with no results. Reseated everything. Reset the CMOS. This build has never posted so nothing is overclocked and nothing has had any firmware updates. I've tried everything I can think of to get this problem fixed and I can't find the solution. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I should probably note that my old build is pretty old so most of the new parts aren't compatible with it so I can't update firmware and such on my own if those are possible issues.
    Thanks.
    PS. Posting from my IPad so I apologize for any typos.

    Quote from: Bernhard on 27-July-12, 12:50:02
    Are you saying that this is a new board and processor after having the same problems on the previous parts ?
    I bought all the parts for this build, had the issue and though it was mobo caused so I sent that back. Then I had the same issue with the replacement so i sent the processor back. Same issue with the replace ment processor.
    Quote from: xmad on 27-July-12, 19:37:58
    Just to ask a probably silly question, but does that old psu have the proper connectors? Are the 4 pin connectors near the cpu filled? Is the backplate on backwards and shorting something?
    Yes, it has all the right ports and connections. The backplate is correct as far as I can tell.
    After talking with MSI and a local computer shop my current best guess is that I got a board with an old version of the bios that isn't compatible with the processor I have. That means to bios will need to be flash updated, something I have no idea how to do. My local computer shop said they could do it for 65$ but with no garuntees if something goes wrong. So, I'm going to send it to MSI and have them do it.
    Thanks for the ideas guys, if you can think of anything else let me know.

  • Z77A-GD65 throwing B2 code

    So I've got this Z77A-GD65 board I've had a bit over a year now, today I obtained my new 760 GTX and attempted to place it in and upon booting back up the system it started throwing a B2 code both on-screen (the GPU by all visual intents works) and on the mobo status display.
    Now I searched around and found a few suggestions, the main one of which I attempted was to 'reset' the CMOS between changing cards (something about some form of hardware memory, seemed odd to me but I figured what the hell).  Unfortunately this didn't really resolve anything and actually bugged my primary UEFI out to where it would boot up, then cycle booting a few times, so I switched it to the secondary (which I had actually never used previous).
    So that one still did the same thing, threw the B2 code as soon as it booted, on the mobo and on screen, just sat there and threw beeps every 30 seconds or so.  So took the card out and put back in my 560Ti and voila, here I am, the 560Ti is working fine still and the system booted up (under the secondary anyways).
    So is there any thing that anyone can think of that might cause the 760 GTX to not work right?  I really don't think it's the card itself since it was at the very least putting actual video to the screen, and while the B2 code seems to cover quite a few things since it's working with the 560Ti back in I don't think it's any of the other potential problems.
    Only major differences I can think between the two other than the 2GB vs 4GB (560Ti vs 760 GTX) is that the 760 is PCIe 3.0 while the 560Ti was PCIe 2.0, but the mobo is supposed to be PCIe 3.0.
    Other general system info;
    CPU: i5 2500K
    RAM: 32 Gigs of Corsair XMS3 1600
    OS: Windows 7 (not sure this is really relevant, at all, in any which way since it's all pre-boot but just in case)
    Any other info needed just ask away.

    Quote from: xmad on 24-October-13, 02:24:02
    Yes, sorry I mis-read.
    Good thing the flash didn't succeed.
    AA0 flash seemed to work but it apparently changed enough some how that my windows install is now defunct on my SSD, lol.  It's complaining about improper paths and stuff.
    Any idea to this or am I just gonna have to reinstall windows on it?  I already tried re-ordering the boot list (since the new BIOS had some sort of "UEFI Hard Drive, etc" stuff up front of everything.
    Edit: It's actually apparently not booting -anything-, I can't even get it to boot into the USB drive now...
    The update said it was successful and by all intents i can get into the BIOS and crap, but I have no idea what to do now.
    Edit Edit: Okay so did another CMOS reset, seems more or less functional to 'boot' but the SSD is still dead in the water.  Now it's saying "Please reboot and select a proper boot device" or something along those lines, rather than the "Windows path etc etc".  I've hooked the SSD into my hotswap dock and like it seems structurally intact, the files are fine but maybe something in the BIOS/UEFI upgrade goofed up it's MBT?

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