Z77A-GD65 SLI Bridge Length??

So i have a Z77A-GD65, not the gaming edition though they look to be the same, anyway i just wanted to toss in a second card in SLI but then i realized this board never came with an SLI bridge in the box...
The spacing is pretty wide on the first and second slot. What is the length, without my having to pull the system out from under the void i like to call my desk and open it up and measure, that i need for an SLI bridge? Would a flexible 4" be long enough or would it take a longer one like a 4.5"??
Going to have to order one so wanted to be sure and i am sure others on here have done this... Thanks!

Sorry for the LONG delay in replying... Got busy, forgot about this post...
Dug around for a half a day and finally located a SLI bridge in my junk.. er parts... boxes!! LOL
Thanks for the offer though! I knew i had one somewhere that would work. First one i found was too short, then the next one i found was sooo long that i had a huge loop of excess, but like goldi locks would say the third one was Just Right... LOL
The setup is done and running and the performance is beautiful... :-)

Similar Messages

Z77A-GD65 + GTX 275 SLI not working?

So I bought myself a new system yesterday, the MSI Z77A-GD65 motherboard with an i7 3770k processor. Everything installed fine, and the system is up and running. The only thing I cannot get working for the life of me is the SLI on two exact brand GTX 275 cards. The old motherboard I had before was a xfx 780i, and the SLI worked flawlessly on it.
The bios version I am running right now is the B5 bios (which I believe is the latest version).
Some of the things I did were, uninstalled the LAN drivers, then installing the nvidia drivers, updated the LAN drivers to the newest version, uninstalled Realtek's HD AUDIO driver, then trying the nvidia install, installed nvidia's beta drivers (301.24), turned on PCIE GEN3, and reinstalling the drivers using a clean install.
Does anyone have any advice on this? I am all out of options on my end. I even changed the SLI cable positioning on the graphics card by placing it closest to the back of the computer, then putting it on the next connectors going to the front of the case.
The only options I see in the nvidia control panel is the physx option, and I can either choose geforce gtx 275 or CPU... So I am wondering if maybe the integrated video is interfering with it? but I don't know how to disable it, or if you even can.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys!

Quote from: Bernhard on 03-May-12, 14:37:59
Check the mainboard settings in the BIOS.
Go to Advanced settings.
Enter the Integrated Graphics Configuration.
Disable Virtu technology and select your discrete card as the initial GPU under Initate Graphic Aadapter.
Check that IGD multi monitor is disabled.
This is taken from my Z68, but I imagine your BIOS being pretty similar.
Give that a try and see if it helps.
I do have that all disabled with no go... I don't think I ever enabled it.
Quote
The problem may be with the enabling of PCI-E 3.0. The VGA's you have are 2.0.
I enabled PCI-E 3.0 as a last resort because when the GEN3 option was off, it wasn't working, so I turned it on to see if that would fix it, but that was a no go too...

Z77a-gd65-having issues running 2 gtx 560 sc in sli--any help out there???

I just built this unit last night and I have a issue that is beyond me....Normally I just throw them together and throw to cards in download all the drivers and turn on sli.......
But with this one the driver keeps crashing and I have no idea what it is--everything is brand new....
z77a-gd65-----I7 3770k
16gb g.skill ripjaws-----------4x4 sticks running in 1333 not 1600
samsung ssd.....
water loop....plenty of cooling....
2 gtx 560 sc 2gb version in sli
BCCode:   117
BCP1:   FFFFFA800D7DC010
BCP2:   FFFFF880049C0198
BCP3:   0000000000000000
BCP4:   0000000000000000
OS Version:   6_1_7601
Service Pack:   1_0
Product:   256_1
It only does this in sli......Right now I have only one card in and i took the other card out...so far no issues......I just can not figure it out..
I tried a new sli brindge and that did not work....Than I switched power supply to 850 from a 750 and that did not work....each 6 pin has it own power rail..nothing brindged on the cable.....Is there a setting In bios I am missing............
Help me out guys....I am at a loss..I really want to run 2 cards.....will be testing the single card for a few more hours and that I will swap it out with the other.....But am I missing something.....Voltage on each card is kind of weird I guess..1.00 volts to .850........

Quote
I know this is besides the point...But you learn something new everyday.....so far no crash....Only difference---I have 2 sticks of ram and not 4....I really would like to know more about this. as of right now. I want to just leave the 2 sticks and make 100% sure the cards are not the issue. You would figure with this set up...I should not have any issues like that what so ever......so why would the i7 3770k have issue like this? Is it know to have problems like that? I even spent the extra cash on this build....now I am second guessing my choice. should have stuck with the z77a-gd55 or lower. So you think the cpu was having issue with the IMC and bandwidth...Talk about weird....I will keep testing like it is right now and than tmr-try uping the voltage & I/O.....I need to make 100% sure its not my cards...
I think you mis-understood (as i wasn't clear)
Set the voltage to 1.65 & 1.1 and install all 4 sticks and re-test.
I wasn't saying the cpu was broken or anything like that. What I was getting at was that the Integrated Memory Controller on dual channel machines sometime have a bit of trouble with all of the band width when hooked up to quad channel. Can also be cause by the memory itself as Froggy was saying:
Quote
Test the other two sticks individually in the primary DIMM slot to see if one or both are faulty.
Virtu-MVP was an exciting idea that hasn't really worked as well as it should due to a lack of support from LUCID. I disabled mine long ago due to nusiance issues.
Quote
Right now---since I have taken out the 2 extra sticks of Ram.....I have not had a single crash..."2 hours".I even turn up the stick to the suggested 1600...Running great...I am a firm believer if it an't broke.....Leave it alone>>>>>>>>>>LOL!!!!!I like the way it is running....
If this is the case, you can reset the dramv and I/o voltage to "Auto".
Perhaps even enable the XMP profile of the ram.

3-Way SLI on MSI X79A-GD65 (8D). What SLI bridge should I use?

Hello!
I don't have this motherboard yet but thinking.
I have now these bridges:
+ what I will get in the box with MSI MB (I think it will be one inflexible SLI bridge). Is it OK if I use 4-Way SLI brigde from ASUS?

Search the 'net for extra long SLI bridges. If long enough, the one quad you have 'may' work. MSI may have one in their pile of parts they can send you. Doesn't hurt to ask;
>> How To Contact MSI <<

MSI Z77A-GD65 going crazy after Windows 8/8.1 installation.

Hey so I decided to buy a new SSD and update my system to Windows 8.1 (coming from 7), mainly for optimal BF4 gaming experience, (I also intend buying a 290X lightning or two when they come out...) . But during the process I encountered a truckload of problems, my main one is this: I was using bios version 10.7 for almost a year, with a stable 4.8GHz OC (which I managed to get done after each bios flash since I built the rig in early 2012), everything went great - this was on Windows 7.
However when I migrated to Windows 8.1 my PC wouldn't boot anymore and after 5-6 attempts it did boot and it said that all my settings were reset to default, fine. I restarted and from then on it wouldn't boot anymore no matter what. The error code on the mobo is always "19" which in manual says it's Early South Bridge initialization. I have no ideea what to do anymore, I tried plugging out SSD, HDDs, GPUs, RAM sticks, clearing cmos with back panel button. It all boiled down to either not booting or going into a boot loop.
My only solution was to switch to bios B on the multi-bios switch which is running 10.2 an almost 2 years old bios. That beeing said I can boot normally now (and fast), and the system runs great but the bios version is so old that it does not let my 2x680 MSI Lightnings work in PCIE 3.0, only 2.0...
So i'm VERY scared of what to do next, because I don't want this second bios to corrupt as well.
I always flashed my bios with Live update 5, I did this with each new bios release and never had a problem but I read that the latest bios, 10.10 is buggy, and I don't know HOW to flash my bios to an earlier version, maybe even 10.7 or 10.8 in another way. Is there a way to safely flash BOTH bioses and to repair my A bios at the same time?
TL'DR, if there isn't any safe solution to my problem I might as well just press in OC Genie button and have a mild OC until sometimes next year when I'll get a new mb + cpu + ram anyway. But if there is one, please let me know.
Any imput is apreciated, THANKS!
full config:
CPU Model: Intel Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz| Corsair H100 push pull
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD65
Ram: 2x 4GB Kingston HyperX T1 Black Series DDR3 2133MHz CL11 Dual Channel Kit
Video Card: 2way SLI MSI GTX 680 Lightning 2GB DDR5 256-bit
Sound Card: Realtek ALC898
Storage: Corsair force GT 120 GB(OS) + 2x WD 1TB SATA-II 7200 RPM 32MB RE3 + WD 2TB SATA-III 7200RPM 64MB Caviar Black + WD 3TB SATA-III 64MB Caviar Green
Power Supply: Nexus RX-1.1K GOLD @ 1100W
Case: Cooler Master Storm Trooper + 8x Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 Red LED + Fan controller Scythe Kaze Master Pro black = negative pressure
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Trigger
Mouse: Cooler Master Storm Sentinel Advance II
CD/DVD: Asus DVD drive black
Monitor: Dell U2711 REVA07 IPS
Speakers: Logitech Z-5500
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro 64bit

I just found a post of mine (from another forum) from when the error 19 thing first started, this is what happend:
Quote
I decided to buy a new SSD and update my system to Windows 8.1 (coming from 7). And I encountered a truckload of problems, my main one is this: I was using bios version 10.7 for almost a year, with a nice 4.8GHz OC stable, everything went great - this was on Windows 7.
However when I migrated to Windows 8.1 my PC wouldn't boot anymore and after 5-6 attempts it did boot and it said that all my settings were reset to default, fine. I restarted and from then on it wouldn't boot anymore no matter what. The error code on the mobo is always "19" which in manual says it's Early South Bridge initialization. I have no ideea what to do anymore, I tried plugging out SSD, HDDs, GPUs, RAM sticks, clearing cmos with back panel button. It all bolied down to either not booting or going into a boot loop.
My only solution was to switch to bios B on the multi-bios switch which is running 10.2 that is almost 2 years old. That beeing said I can boot normally now, but the bios version is so old...
As you can see it had nothing to do with me doing a bad BIOS flash, actually not even the OC... isn't there perhaps a way to fix that A BIOS?

No video on MB Z77A-GD65 or GPU

So my last MSI MB killed itself. I received my RMA board and installed it. I have no monitor output from either the MB or GPU output. Any ideas on this one? Cannot see bios info. Grrrr. Thanks.
1 x OCZ Vertex 4 VTX4-25SAT3-128G 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
1 x Refurbished: EVGA 02G-P3-1559-RX GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI ...
2 x G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-8GAB
1 x Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics ...
1 x MSI Z77A-GD65 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
1 x ABS Majesty series MJ1100-M Continuous 1100W@50°C ATX12V/EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified, Single 12V Rail, Modular ...
1 x COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible ...
1 x Thermaltake Element V Black Edition Steel Full Tower Computer Case Colorshift Fans VL200K1W2Z

Remove the discrete card and clear the cmos, then test the onboad.
If still no vga at all, remove the main board from the case and check for extra stand offs or other shorts. While the board is out, remove the cpu and check the pins with a bright light and hd zoom or magnifying glass.

Sneak Peek of MSI's Z77A-GD65 Motherboard :)

Here is a quick sneak peek of MSI's Z77A-GD65 motherboard. The board is intended for the upcoming Ivybridge 22nm processor which I think will be out this end of April. CPU socket is based on LGA 1155, so current Sandybridge Processors such as 2600k, 2500, 2300, etc… are still compatible. Other than this, the chipset natively supports USB 3.0 and PCI Express GEN3 lanes which can do both NVIDIA SLI and AMD CrossFireX. Running one video card is at x16, two at x8/x8 and three at x8/x4/x4.
With the release of MSI X79 motherboards a month ago. MSI introduced Military Class III Components. This consists of Solid Capacitors, Super Ferrite Chokes (better overclocking and power stability), Hi-C Caps and DrMOS II (higher power efficiency, double thermal protection). All these components have passed the MIL-STD-810G Standards giving the best durability, efficiency and overclock on MSI motherboards.
Moving on, here is the Z77 of MSI looks like. Black and Blue color themed motherboard and I pretty like what they have done with the heatsinks. The layout is clean and finally they moved the OC Genie, Reset and Power buttons on the upper right portion of the board. Much accessible especially when you are in a TRI-SLI video card configuration.
Some basic information on MSI Z77A-GD65:
•Memory Support – 4x DDR3 DIMMs Support DDR3 2667/2400/2133/1866/1600/1333/1066 DRAM 32GB Max
•LAN – 10/100/1000 Fast Ethernet by Intel 82579V
•Audio – Integrated HD Audio Codec by Realtek ALC898. 8-Channel audio with jack sensing. Compliant with Azalia 1.0 Spec
•SATA – 4x SATA 6GB/s Ports (SATA 1-2 Intel Z77 / SATA 7-8 ASMedia ASM1061), 4x SATA 3Gb/s ports (SATA 3-6 Intel Z77)
•RAID – SATA 1-6 Support Intel Rapid Storage Technology (0/1/5/10)
•USB 3.0 – 2x USB 3.0 Rear I/O by intel Z77 / 1x USB 3.0 Internal Connector by Intel Z77
Rear IO Ports
•1x PS/2 Keyboard/Mouse Port
•1x Clear CMOS Button
•1x Coaxial SPDIF-out Port
•1x Optical SPDIF-out Port
•4x USB 2.0 Ports
•2x USB 3.0 Ports
•1x LAN Port
•6x Audio Ports
•1x HDMI port
•1xDVI-D Port
•1x VGA Port
Let’s check out the lower portion of the board. Just below the South Chipset Heatsink. You will find the Debug LED Code and beside it is the MULTI Bios Switch.
The white SATA ports on the right side are the one being controlled by the Intel Z77 Chipset while on the other side are by ASMedia. You will also find the USB 3.0 L-Type Oriented Header for better cable management.
Bundled Accessories
•1x Certificate of Quality and Stability
•1x Manual and Software Application Guide
•1x Drivers & Utilities DVD (Winki III)
•1xSLI Bridge
•1xEasyConnector Header Guide
•1xIO Back Panel Plate
•4x SATA 6GB/s Cables
•1xV-Check Cables
I was able to test the motherboard using an Intel Core i7 2600K. Well it seems for me that the Z77 is more better in overclocking compared than the previous P67 and Z68 MSI models. Voltages are quite accurate too. It wasn’t hard for me reaching a 4.8GHz overclock on the said motherboard.
Below are two benchmark results using MSI Z77A-GD65 and the 2600k.
So that’s it for my share Hope you liked it guys

Quote from: xmad on 30-November-12, 09:49:07
I wouldn't get too tied up in benchmarking unless that is what you are going to be doing with your computer. The -gd65 is MSI's 3rd best z77 motherboard, but it is also a bit older and has more bugs worked out.
One big strike against the gd65 is it's lack of a true hardware switch for it's multi bios. The -gd80 and mpower both have multi bios's with a true hardware switch, this come in very handy if you like to tinker and end up flashing bios allot or overclocking often where a corrupted bios is a possibility.
Just out of curiosity, what are the first and second best ?
So you say you never had issue of slow sata transfers ?

Z77A-GD65 Multiple BIOS Issues - B4 Hang, Splash Screen Blinking

Back in November 2012, I built a home server with a Z77A-GD65. Lately, I've noticed some strange things happening that I've been trying to research but to no avail.
First off, I get the B4 code hang-up whenever I'm booting. This doesn't matter if it's a cold boot or a reboot, it hangs on B4 for about 10-15 seconds, flashes 92 really quick, and then goes to A2 which it stays for another 5 or so seconds. After that I get the MSI splash screen for about 1 second, then it blinks 5 times. After that it goes into Windows just fine.
The blinking is a new issue, the B4 hang is not. I've read from multiple posts that this is a USB issue. When I disable USB legacy support, the issue goes away, but of course then I can't have legacy support. I have yet to figure out what exact device is causing it. In the process of trying to figure this out, I updated BIOS to A.A0. After updating to this version of BIOS the splash screen blinks 5 times before going to the "Starting Windows" splash screen. This is a more difficult issue to figure out why it's doing this because if you search for "BIOS" and "flash" or "flashes" or "flashing", you typically get results for flashing your BIOS. Hence, why I'm using the term "blinking". But even then I can't really find a solution out there.
I also happened to see that the website for the Z77A-GD65 is showing a newer BIOS version, but I'm unable to flash this (at least using M-Flash). I threw it on a USB, re-enabled USB legacy and whenever I click on it to install, the BIOS screen hard locks. The screen just freezes exactly where it's at in the BIOS and the mouse is dead. However, I can CTRL+ALT+DEL on the keyboard and it will reboot the system so I don't need to power cycle the computer. Not sure why this is happening either. Perhaps I need to flash this a different way? Maybe I don't need to flash this at all?
I could really use some input here on why this is happening.
As for the specs on my system, they're as follows:
i7-3770K overclocked to 4.2 Ghz by using the Turbo Mode in BIOS
32GB Komputerbay DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz DIMM with Low Profile Blue Heatspreaders Quad Channel RAM | 9-9-9-24 XMP ready
AMD PowerColor 7870 Myst Edition GPU - currently not overclocked although overclocking this doesn't seem to affect any issues
2 - 128 GB Corsair SATA III SSD - one runs the OS, the other I use to load games from
2 - 500 GB Seagate Barracuda 7200 RPM Sata II HDD's mirrored via Windows 7
1 - 750 GB Seagate Barracude 7200 RPM Sata II HDD
1 - 1 TB Western Digital MyBook USB 2.0 external
2 - 3 TB Seagate USB 3.0 external
ASUS DVD Burner - not sure which one, it's a cheapy $20 from Newegg
1 - PCI USB 3.0 expansion card
Antec TruePower New TP-550 Modular 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Power Supply
NZXT Switch 810 gunmetal - currently have 4 fans running but plan on more, also the Switch 810 has the multi-card reader in the front with 1x SD Card, 2x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0
for peripherals
1 - Microsoft 360 Wireless controller adapter (legit one, not the knockoff although I had a knockoff prior to getting the real deal)
1 - Logitech Wireless USB Keyboard with Touchpad
I tried to be thorough. Thanks in advance for any help!

Quote from: PirateDog on 26-August-13, 12:45:18
Probably a USB device problem.
This is a candidate, as well as mouse and keyboard. Disconnect USB devices one at a time to find the culprit.
A lot of devices running. PSU a +12V single rail or is it multi rail? A rail going to the graphics or components may not be enough amps. My best guess is the card reader.
For UEFI/BIOS flashing, select your mainboard here and use the forum flash method;
I'll definitely try unplugging some of these USB devices to see if that helps with the B4 hang issue.
As for the PSU, according to the description for it on Newegg: "Four industry-leading independent +12v rails are provided for more stable and safer power output." It has two rails going to the GPU. The GPU is a new addition to the system and so I wasn't running it until recently. The issues were occurring beforehand, but you're right that this PSU is underpowered for the rig considering PowerColor recommends a minimum of 500w. I'm going to be buying a larger capacity one sometime in the very near future. Any recommendations on good modular PSU's? What's a good way to tell what wattage to get?
Thanks for letting me know about the forum flash method. I'll be back later when I have some results.

Z77A-GD65 Intermittent Power Up Issue

Ever since I've had this board, it's been problomatic getting it to start at times. Most of the time it starts just fine, other times the fans just barely spin and it fails to start. Repeatedly pressing the start button usually gets it going after maybe a dozen rapid pressings (think Morse Code).
I've tried jumping the pins on the header on the board, no difference. I've tried pressing the power button on the board, no difference.
Sometimes, however, repeatedly pressing the power button does not get it to start. These times I have to disconnect the power cord and wait for the power button on the board to go out, usually takes 30 seconds or so for the board to totally discharge. Now it will power up right away, I have the BIOS set to power up after a power loss.
Of course I've tried the usual things like one stick of RAM only in Slot 2, different sticks of RAM, only one GPU, no GPU, check for shorts to the case, properly seated CPU, etc. But as it is an intermittent issue, it'll seem fine for a while then go right back to not starting, then start right up the next time without any issues. It will always start with a CLEAR CMOS, but that is not a very handy method of booting the computer.
The system is very stable after it is running, which leads me to think the individual components are not faulty. It never has any problem establishing a restart, only a cold boot. The HEX readout is always A0 when it's running, it's never had any problem booting up after it establishes power.
Board: MSI Z77A-GD65 BIOS 10.5
VGA: MSI GTX 680 Lightning X 2
PSU: SeaSonic 860W (71a 12v rail)
CPU: Intel i7 3770K Ivy Bridge
MEM: Samsung 30nm 2x4gb MV-3V4G3D/US Slots 2&4
HDD: Samsung 830 256gb SSD
COOLER: Thermalright HR-02
OC: Multiplier 4.5Ghz 1.275 CPUV ram: 1800 Mhz 1.43V

Quote from: xmad on 02-August-12, 03:27:35
What is the ME version in bios?
If you remove the OC does the problem go away?
I'm at work right now, not sure about the ME version. Can you elaborate what that is?
OC has no effect, it's been doing this since long before I even attempted to OC anything. It's a fairly random issue. I could, for example, take the OC out and maybe it'd boot issue free for a number of tries, I'd think the issue was resolved. Then, without changing anything, it'll go back to doing it. I had this happen when I read that RAM slot 2 was determined to be the primary slot. I loaded one stick of RAM into slot 2 and got several clean starts. I was convinced I had resolved the issue, only to have it fail on the next attempt.
One thing, time appears to be an issue. I can play around with it in the evening, make multiple cold boots no problem. Then it won't start up in the morning. Or maybe it will start up in the morning, but not at lunch. Or not in the evening. But if it's just a couple or a few minutes, it'll start. And restart.

Z77A-GD65, "Missing Operating System" after running Live Update

So here's the brand new computer I assembled:
$309.99 HIS IceQ Boost Clock H795QC3G2M Radeon HD 7950 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16
$219.99 Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000
$199.99 Acer G276HLDbd Black 27" 6ms (GTG) Widescreen LED Monitor
$179.99 Western Digital WD Black WD2002FAEX 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
$159.99 AZZA Hurricane 2000 CSAZ-2000 Black SECC Japanese Steel ATX Full Tower Case
$154.99 Intel 335 Series 2.5" 240GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
$154.99 Intel 335 Series 2.5" 240GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
$144.99 MSI Z77A-GD65 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
$119.99 OCZ ZT Series 750W Fully-Modular 80PLUS Bronze Power Supply
$99.99 Kingston HyperX Beast 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) RAM
$99.99 Logitech G930 USB Connector Circumaural Wireless Gaming Headset
$99.99 Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
$74.99 ASUS Black Blu-ray Burner SATA BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS
$59.40 CNPS9900MAXR Red CPU Cooler
$49.95 3YR DATA RECOVERY SERVICE I INT. HD For (WD Black 2TB)
$34.99 2 yr Replacement W/ ADH plan For (Acer 27" LCD)
$10.99 LITE-ON SK-2030/B Black PS/2 Wired Slim Keyboard
$9.99 LITE-ON SK-2035/B Black USB Wired Slim Keyboard
I wanted to have the SSDs in RAID0 with Win7 and the games on it, then a volume on the 2TB that the RAID backs up to, with the remaining 1.5TB just free storage space in another volume. I couldn't get raid past Win7's Where Do You Want To Install screen during installation, so I ended up installing the OS on just one SSD. I figured I'd backup the functioning OS to the 2TB then rebuild the RAID array and copy the OS back onto it.
The system had been up an running for a full day, being updated left and right nonstop, several big games put in, etc etc, everything was running fine until I decided to run MSI Live Update and started pumping in updates. Constant errors as I went along, but generally it'd just skip to the next installation attempt. When it got down to updating the BIOS and did it's DOS injection thing, it for forcefully shut down the PC, restarted, did Post, flashed the BIOS wallpaper, restarted again, Posted, no BIOS wallpaper, just endless "Missing Operating System". Walked away, went to bed, back up and at it for a few minutes (Will be back tonight for however long it takes to get it fixed). I switched the BIOS switch over, no dice. Feels like it's a BIOS "OS" that's gone, and that a BIOS reset/flash is in order or something, but I've never done these things.
Thanks in advance for any rendered assistance that leads to resolution.

The SSDs are definitely hooked up where they're supposed to go; the motherboard had a little sticker n' everything for where the two SSD dedicated SATA 6.0gbps ports were :P AND my case has 2 specific slots for SSDs which don't use the hotswap electronics PCB passthrough like the other 4 bays, which is where the 2T is installed. I was going to take the 2TB out and hook it up normally and see if that changed the speeds, but I'm leaning towards wishful thinking. Did I mention I went and made several volumes with different file cluster sizes to test and see if that was the issue? Alas, all were borked. It still confuses me though because every once n' awhile it'd do massive burst speeds the way it's supposed to.
As far as I can recall I'm using up to date BIOS, the last one or two. One BIOS switch is set for the last BIOS, the other switch is a step back devoid of the Windows 8 stuff. I believe I have all the drivers up to date as well. Intel 335's are literally brand new, mine hadn't been more than 3 weeks old off the production line when I received them; IE, they should pretty much have the latest firmware on them which spares me the risk of destroying something precious
I MIGHT have a SATA external enclosure around here somewhere, if so, the 2TB could go in that for additional testing until I figure out where it's sustaining speeds of 2-10MB vs 100-150MB/second.
Meanwhile, the good news is that the system has been fully operational and hella stable. I hadn't slept in almost 3 days, playing and installing stuff nonstop. The system continues to run cooler (32c@stock CPU speed) as the thermal paste sets in, the knocking sound of the fan in the PSU has gone away upon me reawakening a bit ago, and amazingly, this massive system (with EIGHT fans) draws only 60-65 watts while desktopping. That's just astounding

Z77A-GD65 Quick Sync with Virtu MVP Issue

Hi everyone! My apologies if this has been answered elsewhere but my searching didn't find anything conclusive. I'm a very happy convert from an EVGA P67 SLI board (ugh) to an MSI Z77A-GD65 (YAY!) So far, I absolutely love this board but I'm having an issue I hope someone can answer. I run a YouTube channel and render a lot of video using Sony Movie Studio Platinum. This product is supposed to support Intel's Quick Sync technology to greatly speed up processing times. Normally, you need to have a monitor running off the IGP for this to be available but Virtu MVP is supposed to get around this. I have a GTX770 as my main video card and a Core i7-2600K which is confirmed to support Quick Sync. However, I've had no luck getting Quick Sync to appear as available to Movie Studio Platinum. Here's what I've done:
1. Enabled IGP in the BIOS (also tried making it the primary display adapter, didn't change anything.)
2. Installed latest drivers for both Intel HD 3000 and my GTX770. Both are available to the system.
3. Set Virtu MVP as D-Mode (either mode supposedly enables Quick Sync and D-Mode's obviously better for gaming.)
4. Installed the Virtu MVP software and created a profile for Movie Studio Platinum. Tried it in both D-Mode and I-Mode through the software.
The short of it is that Movie Studio Platinum does not recognise Quick Sync as being available. It's just not selectable which means it can't detect it. I've also tried plugging my secondary monitor directly into the IGP. This isn't supposed to be necessary with Virtu MVP but I don't game on my second monitor so whatever. Still nothing. I'm kind of at a loss for what to do now. I've been told that most mainboards require you to enable Quick Sync specifically in the BIOS but I don't see that option. Is it just always enabled when the IGP is on this board or does it have to be toggled elsewhere?
If anyone has advice on this, I would really appreciate it. My purchase of this board wasn't contingent on Quick Sync but given the amount of video rendering I'm doing right now, having that acceleration would be a massive boon to me. This feels like I'm just missing something simple. Any advice people can offer? Thanks a ton everyone!

I actually did download the latest MVP from their site, is that what you're talking about or something else?
I'm pleased to report that my Quick Sync issue has been resolved and well, it was pretty much my fault. Turns out only certain rendering profiles in Movie Studio Platinum are able to use Quick Sync. Their documentation didn't make this clear but I stumbled over the solution and it's working like a charm. Thanks!

MSI Z77A-GD65 No Post

When I first started my new system, I did get a display and entered the BIOS. I changed the boot order to put my optical drive first, put in a live CD, restarted, and got a black screen. I ejected the CD, restarted, and got a black screen again. I didn't get a display again until I disconnected all my drives whereupon I got a map error and was able to get back into the BIOS. A web search indicated this is a bug that occurs when no drives are connected so I reconnected the drives, restarted, and got a black screen again. I disconnected the drives again and restarted but I got a black screen again (no map error this time). I tried connecting my monitor to the graphics card instead of the motherboard and that didn't work. I tried removing the graphics card and video capture card and that didn't work. I tried clearing the CMOS by pushing the button and even removing the battery for several minutes and that didn't work.
Here's where things get weird. I tried testing the RAM by pulling out one stick and the system kept restarting itself: it would turn on then power off a few seconds later then, after a few seconds, start up again, etc. I had to wait till it powered off and quickly pull out the power supply's cord to get it to stop. I removed that stick and put the other one in instead and the same endless loop of restarting happened again. When I put both sticks back in it stopped restarting.
Since I couldn't get into BIOS A, I switched to BIOS B and got a display again. There was no option to restore BIOS A so I was forced to continue using BIOS B. Since my graphics card was removed at this point, I changed the BIOS to IGD instead of PEG for graphics and shut down. I reconnected my drives then restarted and got a display again and entered the BIOS. I changed the boot order to put my optical drive first, put in a live CD, restarted, and got a black screen. I ejected the CD, restarted and got a black screen. I disconnected the drives and restarted hoping I would get a map error and could get back into the BIOS but got a black screen again. I've tried switching back to BIOS A but still can't get a display.
I tested the RAM by putting it in my old desktop one stick at a time, and then both sticks at once, and it worked fine. I installed the optical drive and one of the hard drives into my old desktop and successfully installed and booted linux off of it with the no problems. The second hard drive does appear to be borked and my old desktop froze when I tried to boot with that drive installed. However I've tried starting my new system multiple times without that damaged drive connected and I still get a black screen so I don't see how it could be the problem.
The LED on the motherboard mostly alternates between 19 and 72. It will run through a bunch of codes too quickly to read then pause for a second on 19 (Early South Bridge Initialization) then run through a bunch of codes too quickly to read then pause for a second on 72 (Late South Bridge Initialization) then go back to 19, etc. I've sometimes also seen it pause for a second on 55 (Early Memory Initialization) and 4F (which doesn't appear in the manual).
I'm guessing it has to be the motherboard or CPU but I don't know which. I don't have another motherboard to test the CPU on and no other CPU to test on this motherboard (the old desktop is AMD).
Hardware:
MSI Z77A-GD65 motherboard
Intel Core i5-3570K CPU
G.Skill DDR3-1600 CL9 1.5v 4096MB (x2) RAM (tested in old desktop)
Seagate Barracuda 1TB hard drive (tested in old desktop)
Pioneer BDR-208DBK blu-ray drive (tested in old desktop)
Corsair Obsidian 550D case
Seasonic G Series 550W power supply
Samsung S23B550V monitor (tested with old desktop)
Currently disconnected hardware:
HIS Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition graphics card
Seagate Barracuda 3TB hard drive (believed to be broken)
Black Magic Design Intensity Pro capture card

Quote
Here's where things get weird. I tried testing the RAM by pulling out one stick and the system kept restarting itself: it would turn on then power off a few seconds later then, after a few seconds, start up again, etc. I had to wait till it powered off and quickly pull out the power supply's cord to get it to stop. I removed that stick and put the other one in instead and the same endless loop of restarting happened again. When I put both sticks back in it stopped restarting.
Test each stick in Dimm 2 (2nd from the cpu) Make sure they are installed into DIMMS 2 & 4 (2nd from cpu and last)
Did you try a full cmos clear on Bios A?
If so, you can recover using this guide:
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=160450.0
With the z77a-gd65, you will need to flash bios B to version 10.5. In that version in the security section is a multi bios update. Use that and it will recover bios A.
For bios flashing: >>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<

Z77a-gd65 no multi drop in idle with fixed vcore ?

Hi all, I am trying to oc my 2500k on the z77a-gd65 with a normal multi oc and fixed vcore, eist always enabled. interal pll overvoltage auto, intel turbo off, vdrop auto, digitial compensation auto, cpu core ocp expander auto, cpu core switching freq. auto. Ce1 enabled, intel c-state enabled, c state limit auto. Also I think they dont grip once fixed vcore.
Problem is: My multi doesn't drop in idle but hangs fixed at what ever multi I put in. Is a normal multi OC with a drop to 1.6 ghz in idle no longer possible in ivy bridge ? My SB did that just fine.

You obviously have a CPU with a good VID. Not everyone is that fortunate. It's your OC, do as you please. I OC most of my processors when under full load to sit at or just below the industry suggested maximums for them (CPU V. set on 'Auto') and experiment with the VDroop settings to ensure stability. With Sandy and Ivy, that is 1.400v's, or less when under load. On CPU V. 'Auto', worst Ivy CPU currently here will do 45X, another one does 46X, best Sandy here will do 51X. Heat, voltage requirements (VID), clock speed variations attainable between CPU specimens is rather large. Only a few rigs here have 'raw' OC's on them and run manual set CPU V. all the time.
Quote
So, if you use your machine for mostly gaming (why oc otherwise) one can actually save more with manual vcore if this is lower at full load than the auto (especially for me as I get 4.4 GHz with a 2500k on 1.156 vcore, which I will never get down to on auto vcore.).
Rendering, Audio - Video creation, OC'ing the CPU is 'very' beneficial to performance.

MSI's Latest Dragoon Equipment Z77A-GD65 Gaming!!!

As PC Gaming is becoming more and more popular, MSI formed a gaming community named “Dragoon Army”. This division is composed of international gaming teams sponsored by MSI and is equipped with G-Series notebooks and as well as Gaming desktop hardware.
The latest gaming equipment that MSI has to offer is the “Z77A-GD65 Gaming “motherboard. Now in black and red color theme and with the new MSI Dragon look, it is a new masterpiece tailored for gaming perfection.
Below are the highlights of the board:
• Killer E2200 Game Network – Is built for maximum networking performance for online games and high-quality streaming media. Featuring Advanced Stream Detect, Killer E2200 automatically detects and accelerates game traffic ahead of other network traffic for smoother, stutter-free in-game performance and the competitive edge. With this exclusive, automatic traffic prioritization, games and real-time chat get priority over low-level system chatter, giving you the lowest latency for game data on the most controllable network hardware available.
•Gaming Device Port – Optimized for high polling rate (500 to 1000 Hz) which lower’s your mouse’s response time from 8 milliseconds to 1 millisecond. Additional gold plating on the ports enhances the durability drastically and ensures your PS/2 and USB ports are always working when you ship out to a LAN party.
•Sound Blaster Cinema – Get amazing surround sound with just stereo headphones. The most important gaming sound effects are reproduced crystal clear allowing to focus on your game even during extremely long gaming sessions.
•Military Class III Components – High quality components ensuring your PC’s stability and efficiency under extreme gaming conditions.
•Optimized for Multi-Graphic Cards – Provides enough space for optimal airflow when using multi-graphic configuration (SLI, Tri-SLI & Crossfire). No worries about PC overheating.
•OC Genie II – Automatically overclocks your CPU and Memory for a faster and smoother gaming experience.
•Supports DDR3 3000 Memory for faster response
Let’s open up the package
Black interior and the bundles are all placed underneath the motherboard.
Specifically there are new bundles for this gaming kit. First one is the Door Label with the message “I’m Sorry Busy Gaming / I’m Not Here” and the Dragoon Army badge which I think is cool hehehe.
• User’s Guide
•Quick Installation Guide
•Reviewer’s Guide - Gives a good understanding how you can fully maximize the Killer E2200 Game Network and the Sound Blaster Cinema Audio Features.
• DVD Software Utility Disc
• 2x SATA 6GB/s Cables
• M-Connectors
• V-Check Points
• I/O Back plate
Here is the board. New heatsink design for the VRM and the most noticeable of all is the Southbridge heatsink with the Dragon design ~~ Wicked!! .
12 CPU Power Phase design. Super Ferrite Choke and Hi-C Caps of Military Class III components around the CPU socket providing the best electric current capacity and at the same time power efficiency. Heatpipe design in VRM heatsinks for faster heat dissipation.
At the upper right area of the board are the Easy buttons which consists of OC Genie, Power and Reset. Then just below it is the V-Check points which provides exact and actual voltage readings of your Processor, Memory and Chipset and usually being use during overclocking.
8-Pin processor power connector which helps to gain higher overclocks instead of the usual 4pin. 4x DIMM slots with a max of 32GB and when paired up with a 22nm CPU it can handle speeds up to 3000MHz.
Clean layout for the bottom part of the board. 3x Gen3 PCIE VC Slots capable of running video cards at bandwidth speed of 16x/8x/4x.
Carved Dragon!!! Such masterpiece  . Below is the Debug LED indicator which helps isolating problems during system boot up and also serves as temperature indicator of the processor during system operation.
Left to Right: 2x SATA 6GB/s Asmedia Controller, 4x SATA 3GB/s Intel, 2x SATA 6GB/s Intel and Intel USB 3.0 header.
Just want to take photo of the labels hehehe 
Well I hope MSI included a Bluetooth and Wifi Connectivity for the board like what they did with the MSI Z77 MPower.
• 1 x PS/2 keyboard/mouse port
• 1 x Clear CMOS button
• 1 x Coaxial S/PDIF-out port
• x Optical S/PDIF-out port
• 4 x USB 2.0 ports
• 2 x USB 3.0 ports
• 1 x RJ45 LAN jack
• 1 x 6 in 1 audio jack
• 1 x HDMI®
• 1 x DVI-D
• 1 x VGA
Moving on, I will be showing you screenshots of Click Bios II, Control Center in Windows, Sound Blaster Cinema, Killer E2200 and the UEFI Bios.
These are the two windows you will be using to configure your Killer Network. You can assign network priorities with certain softwares. So if you are an online gamer. Ofcourse you will prioritize your games to lower the latency and smoothen out your gameplay.
Now we look into the control panel of the Sound Blaster Cinema. This is an improved version of the previous THX Audio software. You can adjust the bass from here, make audio surround, crystallize the audio to make the sound more clearer and many more…
Control Center configurations and tabs are all the same but the color is changed to black and red and ofcourse the addition of the Dragon logo. Same goes for the Click Bios II Gaming version.
The response of the BIOS is much faster. Tabs are all the same though.
Another set of UEFI screenshots.
That’s it for now and will be updating this with benchmarks stay tuned….

Now available in the U.S.A. market;
>> Z77A-GD65 Gaming <<

Z77A-GD65 USB3 port with Seagate Freeagent go desk issues

I have a Z77A-GD65 motherboard, with an intel i5 Ivy Bridge 3570k processor. Kingwin LZP-550 PSU and have attached via USB3 (using a USB3 cable of course) a seagate Free Agent Go Desk 2TB external hard drive.
On my old system the drive when the system is on, is running just spins down when its not in use.. power light stays on for the drive all the time. That was also a USB3 system, just another USB3 chipset.
On this motherboard, sometimes the drive when the system is powered up doesn't turn on and I have to unplug the USB cable and replug it in, after that the drive power LED comes on and spins up.
Any reason why this motherboard is acting like this? The drive should come on with the system like it did on my old system.
Anything I can do to fix this or change the USB ports behavior? It's almost like its not telling the device it's on.

Quote from: xmad on 25-August-12, 00:30:38
Attached is the latest beta bios for your board.(MSI recommended this)
>>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<
MSI tried to duplicate the problem but couldn't does this testing procedue seem right to you?
1.   Install System driver and reset
2.   Connect USB HDD to USB 3.0 port. The device can be recognized.
3.   Reboot the system
4.   Check Computer and still can find the USB HDD
5.   Power off the system
6.   Power on and check Computer.
Z77A-GD65
BIOS: E7751IMS.A50
WIN7 64 bit
USB 3.0 driver: 1.0.4.225
Seagate FreeAgent Goflex STAA1500301 1.5TB
I installed that BIOS and still have the issue, one easy way to reporduce this is to power up the system into windows 7 x64, sleep the computer in (sleep mode in bios is set to S3) when you wake it, the USB3 drives are offline

Z77A-GD65 SLI Bridge Length??

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