Zoom, Crop and Focus Issue
I took some pictures of my family zip lining. I've cropped the pictures so that the zip liners fill most of the picture. They are a bit blurry when I do this. When I zoom in just a tad using iPhoto they come into focus. No matter how close I crop the photo, however, they are never in focus. Any ideas?
Of course, doing a tight crop on a telephoto action shot might not be the sharpest to begin with!
Remember the rule of thumb that the shutter speed should be 1/35-mm effective focal length, which might not be enough for action shots. (IS won't help you here!)
Cropping effectively increases the focal length which makes the problem worse.
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Adobe Flash Pro CS6 -- cursor and focus issues
This is OS specific as it works fine in the Snow Leopard.
I am having issues with nearly everything involved with switching between apps / focusing on text windows / getting the cursor to appear where I click / etc since upgrading to Mountian Lion/Mavericks while using Flash Professional CS6.
Example problems:
I click on the Flash icon in the menu bar (twice because the new Mac OS's have focus problems in the dock with mission control enabled) the OS will sometimes switch to the space containing Flash (sometimes not but let's focus on the Flash focus issues). I hover over the code window, I scroll with the mousewheel down the page to where I want to edit the code, I CLICK exactly where I want to paste it, hit cmd+C -- then it pastes the code NOT THERE but instead where the cursor was before (at the top of the page)... So essentially I have to double or triple click everything in Flash all the time. I just click like crazy anymore on everything all the time, but in Flash it's really unpredictable.
This happens on both of my work computers (both 10.8.5)
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Of course, doing a tight crop on a telephoto action shot might not be the sharpest to begin with!
Remember the rule of thumb that the shutter speed should be 1/35-mm effective focal length, which might not be enough for action shots. (IS won't help you here!)
Cropping effectively increases the focal length which makes the problem worse. -
Photo Books - Crop and Color Issues from Kodak Gallery
I've been spending a good amount of time creating photo books and ordering them from Kodak using the built-in online ordering feature.
I've noticed several items that I was curious if others have any experience perspective on.
1. Cropping. For a flexible full bleed photo book, the page as it is represented in PSE3 is substantially cropped when Kodak processes the book. The difference between the two is almost 1/2 on either side and 1/4 inch on on the top a bottom. (These are approximate numbers) Have others seen this? It would be nice to have a border in the software showing where the page will be cropped since the Kodak service and PSE3 are so tightly integrated.
2. The colors come seem to come off a bit dark as compared to prints I have ordered and the images are all very slightly pixelated as compared to prints. Nothing awful, but not what you would want for your best photos.
I am hoping to learn if others have seen these issues and learned to live with them or are the other photo book providers that could turn a pdf into a higher quality book?
Thank you for your assistance.
Wes Gimbert
Cincinnati, OHI haven't used the Kodak Gallery for photo books. I have been tempted a time or two, but so far I have ordered my books through Mypublisher.com. The product is about the same. And I saw one of their books last Christmas and was impressed with it. In reading through the instructions from Mypublisher, they warn that there will be some cropping on full-bleed images and advise to be sure to allow for that. I have not run into the color or brightness difference that you mentioned. There are those who will disagree with me, but I read an article awhile back that indicated that most of the online photo processors as well as many of the one-hour minilabs standardize their equipment to the sRGB color space. So that is what I have used when preparing my books, and I have been very pleased with the results.
As far as your pages are concerned, you might try what I did in my last project. The pictures didn't fit any of the templates provided by the publisher, so I created my own pages in Photoshop. I positioned the pictures where I wanted them and added my own text. Then I just created my book using those pages. It turned out very nicely. I have distributed 75 copies of the album so far and everyone has really liked it.
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Samsung Galaxy Note 3 Camera Flash and Focus Issues
I have 2 issues with the Camera on my Note 3:
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2) The Camera takes a long time to take pictures and the pictures are often out of focus.
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VZW Support
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Cropping and vignetting issues
I'm having issues when I crop, then try to apply vignetting. The vignetting effect is being applied to the original size image, causing an uneven vigneting effect. In other words, if my crop is the lower left portion of the image, the vignetting is dark in the lower left of the image but light in the upper right. How can I fix this? What am I doing wrong? At this point all I can do is crop in Photoshop first, then apply vignetting.
Vignetting is in the lens correction tab precisely because it is there to correct for lens vignetting. It can also be used in reverse to add vignetting to an image from a *lens*.
It is not designed to add vignetting to an *image*. There is presently no way to add vignetting after a crop. This is a commonly requested feature, but I suspect if it shows up, it will not be in the lens correction tab as at that point it is no longer a lens correction. -
hi.
i am usign a JCheckBox as a button (legacy code) as it is a JToggleButton underneath.
it is in a row of 3 buttons and it iis in the middle. for some reason, i cna't seem to give it default focus. i have tryed setting hte focus, and setting hte default button, and adding it first in a BorderLayout.
is there anythign i can do?
thanks
-annAYou can only request focus on a component when it is visible.
Or you can add a WindowListener to the window and implement the windowOpened() method to request focus.
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16 bit Tiff crop and straighten display issues
Still having the same old issues with 16 bit exports when crop and straighten have been applied to a file. Re import the n zoom or use loupe results in artifacts.
Anyone else??I've had this problem with images saved as 8-bit scans.
Are you using any compression in the TIFs? I scanned using Nikon Scan 4, cleaned up a bit in Photoshop 7, reduced the bit depth to 8-bit, and saved at TIFs with embedded colour profile using ZIP compression, Macintosh byte order.
This used to work with Aperture 1.5.6, but with Aperture 2.0 I see a kind of offset pattern, so a vertical line looks like this:
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The photos imported are zooming in and out and are out and in focus-how to resolve this?
Hi all,
I just started creating a short film which will consist of photos and voice over. After importing the photos, each of them is being zoomed in and out and is once slightly blurry and once in focus- none of the effects are on and I am a bit stuck. Does anyone know how to get rid of this?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!The effect you are seeing is known as the Ken Burns effect, which shows panning and zooming on the images. This is iMovie's default setting for still photos. To change this setting, go to iMovie's Menu and select File>Project Properties. In the window that opens, for the item "Initial Photo Placement" choose Fit in Frame (click on the disclosure arrows). The other options are Crop and Ken Burns. You will need to do this for each Project that you start - change the setting before dragging photos to the Project.
For your current project you will also need to change the setting for each image already inserted, given that they have already been included in the project. To do this on an image, there are several options. One way is to click on the image (clip) then press the C key on the keyboard. In the viewer you will see selections for Fit, Crop and Ken Burns - select Fit, then click on Done. Now the photo will remain stationary, with no pan or zoom.
Another method is to click on the small gear icon at the left corner of the clip, then select Cropping, Ken Burns and Rotation from the pop-up menu. Again, the various selections will appear in the Viewer. Also, you can click on the Crop tool in the centre toolbar (directly to the right of the microphone icon).
To change the setting for a number of photos (rather than doing them individually), select them by clicking on the first photo then clicking on the last one while holding down the Shift key - that's assuming they are all grouped together (contiguous). If not grouped, then click on each one while holding down the Command key. Once all clips have been selected (highlighted with a yellow border), you can make your selections as to Fit, Crop and Ken Burns, as described earlier. All highlighted photos will then have their setting changed. Don't forget to click on Done after changing the setting!
John -
Canon HF R400 Chromatic Aberration and Blocking Zooming, Hard Time Focusing, LCD Display GUI
An otherwise nice cam for the price point especially end-of-the model year. I'm going to keep for primarily shooting youtube collectibles in a controlled environment of clamp lights with diffusers and either Auto White Balance or 'P' mode.
1. In my optical zoom tests (it's nice there's four speed options. I use number 3. The cam exhibits a lot of chromatic aberration which is purple, white ,or even green fringing around the subject matter. I shot of a telephone pole transformer box in bright light, the sky behind it, tree branches and snow on hedges in winter.
2. On a couple occasions when I zoomed in from about estimated 100-150yds the sky exhibited large blocky pixels for a second. But if I took it to an amusement park to shoot roller coasters I'd hold my breath for both reasons.
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4. The amount of display items on the LCD GUI is too much. Even the cheap Samsung F90 has a button to turn it off. Am I missing something. I read the 197pg PDF manual. Is there a way to turn off or at least reduce the number of items I don't need to see in order to actually shoot a video/picture? In still life tests. I had to take photos with the cam. Look at them. Then adjust. Then repeat. Just to see the composition. Kind of like in the day when pro photographers would take Polaroids prior to the film shot.
Note: If I'm allow to post youtube links or at least the titles of the videos to demonstrate in the near future when I upload examples of the Likes and Dislikes of my purchase I'd like to know from a Canon moderator (thanx in advance).Hi ElectroT2!
Thanks for posting.
Chromatic aberration is not always something that can be completely eliminated. It most often appears when shooting a subject in the foreground that highly contrasts with the background Chromatic aberration is caused by a lens having a different refractive index for different wavelengths of light. Because each hue in the spectrum is not focused at a single point, colored halos or fringing appears. There are two types of chromatic aberration: longitudinal, where different wavelengths are focused at different distances from the lens, and lateral, where different wavelengths are focused at different positions on the focal plane.
Are you zooming optically or digitally when you see the "blockiness" in the image? If digital zoom is being used, it would explain why you see it. Digital zoom appears as the light blue area of the zoom bar. When you zoom digitally, the image is basically cropped and expanded more and more as you zoom. Because of this, the image quality will deteriorate the more you zoom in. You can select the type of zoom used in the settings menu under [Zoom Type].
Autofocus may not work well on the following subjects:
- Reflective surfaces
- Subjects with low contrast or without vertical lines
- Fast moving subjects
- Through wet windows
- Night scenes
You can always adjust the focus manually by selecting [ Focus] in the menu. You can then touch a subject that appears inside the frame, then touch and hold to adjust focus. When it is focused where you want it, then touch [ X ] to lock the focus. Something that may help you is when you are focusing manually, you can touch inside the frame to automatically focus on that spot to help you with the adjustment process.
As for the onscreen displays you are describing, they cannot be disabled so that only the subject appears on the LCD. You can, however, keep them from being displayed when the camcorder is connected to an external monitor. The setting is in the menu under the tab. It is called [Output Onscreen Displays].
This didn't answer your questions? Find more help at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well. -
JPEG/PSD issue--I open a jpeg and edit it (levels, crop) and then "save as" and the save as option shows there are now levels in the image and it wants to save it as a .psd file or a copy with layers. What am I doing that has these settings appear?
16bit? Pixels extending beyond the canvas? (from a crop with delete unused pixels turn off). Have you previously been saving PSD files?
IME you sometimes have to tell Photoshop that the first save of a session is JPG, and it remembers from there on. The way to 'tell' Photoshop that JPG, or PDF, or PNG etc are now your preferred format is to Ctrl (Cmd) click on that format in the Save As drop down list. So long as the file does not have parameters that your chosen format does not support, then this should work for you.
[EDIT] Just noticed that you did include 'Crop' in the subject line. Do you have 'Delete cropped pixels' checked? -
I want to crop and/or zoom into a corner of a clip in my project, and then slowly zoom back out to show the entire clip. But I can't figure out how to accomplish this. When I use the crop or clip effect, it remains for the length of the clip. To give you an idea of what I mean, there is a car that starts on the left side of the clup and goes out of frame after a few seconds, so I want to avoid showing the car by starting with a zoomed in view of the right side of the clip.
How can I zoom in on portion of my clip, then back out again?
Thanks!As John Nash points out, your Zoom and Pan can be easily done via Keyframing the Fixed * Effects>Motion>Position (Pan/location), and Motion>Scale (Zoom). Be sure to read his graciously furnished link completely, and if you do not understand any terms in it, and cannot find a useful definition of any, drop back with any questions.
As John notes, many/most Effects can be Keyframed to change over time. There ARE some exceptions, but not that many.
* Fixed Effects are those that are automatically applied to all Video Clips (Volume is a Fixed Effect, added to any Audio), and will always be there. Motion, contains Scale and Position, the two that you will use here. One adjusts these most easily and effectively from the Effects Control Panel, which is invoked by hitting Edit Effects in the Effects Tab, with that Clip Selected. Other Effects are first added from the Effects Tab.
Steve's tutorials and articles are great resources, as well, and come highly recommended, along with John's link.
Good luck, and happy editing,
Hunt
PS - as Keyframes are so very useful and powerful, and can be used in so many cases, I urge one to learn the concepts. Though time might need to be invested, it will pay great dividends later. -
Windows 8.1, PSE 11
I am having a number of issues including loss of import functionality from scanner, I can't drag and drop photos into the editor any more as well, or at least not after the first one. The crop function stops working after the first couple of photos. Then some freezing. A little added crashing. A plethora of other bizarre issues as well. This just stated happening a couple of days ago.
What I have tried:
Uninstall/Install.
Deleted preferences both before opening Editor (crontrol-alt-delete) and after opening it.
Kindly advise. Thanks!
Adobe Photoshop Elements Version: 11.0 (11.0 (20120830.r.32025)) x32
Operating System: Windows 8 64-bit
Version: 6.2
System architecture: Intel CPU Family:6, Model:10, Stepping:9 with MMX, SSE Integer, SSE FP, SSE2, SSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2
Physical processor count: 8
Processor speed: 3500 MHz
Built-in memory: 8139 MB
Free memory: 5185 MB
Memory available to Photoshop Elements: 3255 MB
Memory used by Photoshop Elements: 70 %
Image tile size: 128K
Image cache levels: 6
Display: 1
Display Bounds:= top: 0, left: 0, bottom: 1440, right: 2560
Video Card Number: 1
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti
Driver Version: 9.18.13.3750
Driver Date: 20140327000000.000000-000
Video Card Driver: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
Video Mode: 2560 x 1440 x 4294967296 colors
Video Card Caption: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti
Video Card Memory: -2047 MB
Application folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\
Temporary file path: C:\Users\evan\AppData\Local\Temp\
Photoshop Elements scratch has async I/O enabled
Scratch volume(s):
Startup, 931.2G, 805.4G free
Required Plug-ins folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\Required\
Primary Plug-ins folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\Plug-Ins\
Additional Plug-ins folder: not set
Installed components:
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AdobeXMP.dll Adobe XMP Core 2010/10/12-08:45:30 63.139439 63.139439
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Required plug-ins:
Accented Edges 12.0
ADM 3.11x01
Angled Strokes 12.0
Auto Divide 11.0.0.0 (11.0 (20120830.r.32025))
Average 12.0.2
Bas Relief 12.0
BMP 12.0.2
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Multiprocessor Support 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
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Magic Extractor 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
PhotomergeUI 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
Plug-ins that failed to load: NONE
Installed TWAIN devices: NONEFinal Update: ...god willing...
OK! Check it, like I said in previous posts I seemed to have narrowed it down to specific mp3s not converting and playing in their native sample rate which if paired with another sample would give you the "audio midi sync" error and basically screw up your clock! It appears mp3 files converting to mp3 using iTunes would not convert to the correct sample rate if set to something other than 44 in logic and cause this. A tad peculiar Apple iTunes won't work with Apple Logic. I was able to confirm this on two mac's via my friend in Florida. He's running Tiger and tried the same experiment and Booya! Mickey Mouse! It appears this insane week long adventure has came to an end (...god willing) with a super specific unlucky shot in the dark on my part finally revealed to be an perfectly normal function of Logic (obviously one i'm not fond of..) As far as the errors / crashes / system overloads / kernal panics I think I can sort those out to the mackie onyx satellite not being a good choice and trying to add and remove firewire devices in the middle of the sample rate mayhem. Wow! all I can say is, I'm glad it's over
Wish me a lot of luck in the future.. I'm sure i'll need it! -
Lightroom and Windows mouse focus issues.
In one aspect Lightroom have been always behaving different from other Windows application: Its speed of grabbing mouse focus and moving window to the foreground is exaggerated. This problem will be observed only by people using their WinXP computers in "X11 mode", like with Unix, what allows to perform interaction with processes associated with windows without ever clicking on, or raising such window. Should you be working on large computer clusters as I do, this focusing feature its a blessing.
This how you can reproduce: Use Tweak UI to adjust the mouse behavior. Select "Mouse," step down to "X=Mouse" and check "Activation follows mouse." Do not select "autoraise."
Now your WinXP will behave similar to the real X11 xterm with mouse having the "no raise selection" policy. Its not quite identical to xterm, but it really works perfectly in most cases.
Except... well, except with Lightroom. Lightroom grabs the pointer and pushes the window to the foreground in splits of a second. For example, go to
"Help|About Adobe Lightroom" to see the credit window. It appears than as usual, but since the help menu will be dismisses, the pointer stands on the main Lightroom window, what makes the credits window vanish in split of a second. No chance to see it!
Another case: Assume that Lightroom uses almost the entire desktop down to the task bar, and your browser window is smaller. Select the browser on the taskbar and try to move mouse to it. No chance! Lightroom will take over and pop itself to the foreground again. The only solution is to minimize Lightroom. And than sometimes something happens that Lightroom will not restore itself anymore! The "Restore" operation is grayed out, one can only Maximize it. We have reported this numerous times before.
I am aware that this problem relates only to WinXP users with X11 mouse mode, but with Lightroom reaching now a high degree of maturity, maybe we could take a look at this problem as well?In order to overcome most of the known navigation and/or focus issues you need to be using the following:
<li>Forms 10.1.2.3 or newer (latest is 11.1.2). If/when you are using 10.1.2.3 you would also need to install patch ID 9593176 as this contains additional fixes for focus issues.
<li>JRE 1.6.0_26 or newer (latest is 1.6.0_30). The latest is always recommended as it contains the most up to date fixes for both technical issues and security issues.
Patches are only available on MyOracleSupport: http://support.oracle.com -
3.2 image rendering issues when cropping and straightening
Upgraded to 3.2 - all works well so far but have noticed that the top 1/3rd of image disappears during the cropping and straightening processes in the viewer window, but only with portrait/vertically oriented images. Anyone else have that issue?
Still on Snow Leopard here and I just tried this. Sorry to report it worked OK for me. I tried both straightening then cropping and then the reverse. No problems.
Does it happen on all portrait images? Could you post a screen shot of the results?
There wasa report of something similar a while back. Here's the thread:
After straightening/cropping 1/2 or 3/4 of displayed image is blacked out! Don;t know how that turned out.
regards
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