MacBook Pro 17" Glossy (Late 2011) vs MacBook Pro 13" Glossy (Late 2011)

Hi everybody,
I have bought a MacBook Pro 17" 3 months ago. I really love it and it's cool. A few days ago, one of my friends came to my office, broght his MacBook Pro 13" which he had also bought it a few days after me.
He told me he feels my MBP 17" display is somehow blurry. I compare the two devices against each other. Both of them had glossy displays. But I think he was actually write. I think the MBP 13" display looks a little brighter and nicer.
I have also an iMac 21.5" (Late 2009). As you might know, iMac has a very wide viewing angle. The first time I brought my MBP out of the box and turned it on, I found that it's display is not the same as iMac, and it made me a little sad. Actullay I bought a glossy one, since I thought it works the same as iMac display; but that's not true.
I don't expect a MBP to have a very wide viewing angle, but can I expect it to show me the colors as shiny and beautiful as iMac does?
I think my friend's MBP 13" display looks more beautiful than my BMP 17" and it's so much similar to iMac's diaply than mine is! Is there any possibility that my MBP is fake????? I am not sure about that and don't know what to do!
Do you have any idea? Can you tell me something that makes me sure if my MBP is not fake?
Thank you very much,
Mani Hamedani

I found the solution and here it is:
In fact the difference between my iMac and MBP display was due to calibration. Using the expert mode of the Color Calibration in the System Preferences > Display, I calibrated both my MBP and iMac and now there is no issue with colors.
The difference between them is the wide viewing angle of iMac display.
Just remember, calibrate your display to have the best colors depending on the light of the room you are working in.

Similar Messages

I have a late 2011 model MacBook Pro running Mountain Lion. I love the AirPlay mirroring feature with Apple TV...BUT, how do I mirror with TVs that don't have Apple TV? I used to run a cable from my mini display port to the HDMI input of a TV.

I have a late 2011 model MacBook Pro running Mountain Lion. I love the AirPlay mirroring feature with Apple TV...BUT, how do I mirror with TVs that don't have Apple TV? I used to run a cable from my mini display port to the HDMI input of a TV. This feature seems to be lost in the Mountain Lion upgrade. Did Apple feel that once Mountain Lion came out that EVERYONE would have Apple TV? There are no settings in System Preferences/Display like there used to be...only for AirPlay Mirroring.

Running a cable to the HDMI port is still supported. (and still works on mine).
If the Arrangement tab in System Preferences > Displays isn't present then it doesn't recognize the physical connection. Double check all cables. If that doesn't work try a PRAM reset:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1379

Looking for 16GB RAM That is Compatible with Late-2011 17" Macbook Pro

Hi guys,
I am looking to upgrade the RAM and Hard Drive in my late-2011 17" Macbook Pro. I've already found the hard drive I want to use, but I don't know as much about RAM, and I'm not sure which 16GB (2 x 8GB) kit would be both compatible and give me the best bang for my buck. I am in Canada so any suggestions linking to Canada Computers or NewEgg would be the best! I'd really appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jacob

First, goto OWC - https://www.macsales.com/
It has a guide for all things Mac & Memory
Second, get an SSD as it will speed up your computer tremendously.
OWC or Crucial are very good Mac-friendly brands.

Is it safe to use an 85watt adapter from a 2006, 17" macbook pro on a late 2011 15" macbook pro?

Hi. My question is pretty much as the heading says :
Is it safe to use an 85watt adapter from a 2006, 17" macbook pro on a late 2011 15" macbook pro?
As far as I can tell from googling and searching around, it does appear that it is safe to do so.
Specifically this page
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2346
But I just wanted to double-check for confirmation that it is indeed safe to use the adapter from such an old mbook pro in a newer one.
The wattage is the same.
I wish to do so as I prefer the T-connector, and my older adapter has a much longer extension cord on it.
If not I may order another one from ebay.
Any idea how to check that an adapter from ebay is a true / legitimate / authentic apple adapter?
Thanks for your help.

Benway1 wrote:
Is it safe to use an 85watt adapter from a 2006, 17" macbook pro on a late 2011 15" macbook pro?
Yes.
I recommend you buy one directly from Apple. There are many counterfeit power adapters on the market that could damage your MacBook Pro or potentially cause a fire.
Any idea how to check that an adapter from ebay is a true / legitimate / authentic apple adapter?
Nearly all of them are, even if the seller insists it is "genuine OEM". Legitimate adapters from eBay are likely to be used, not new. There is nothing wrong with used, as long as you know what you're getting.
Identifying a counterfeit is possible only through close examination.

Late 2011 17" Macbook Pro upgrade advice needed

Hey everybody, I would like to u[grade my Late 2011 17" Macbook Pro.
8GB DDR3 RAM
750GB HDD
OSX 10.7.4
So after reading on Crucial.com that I could house 16gb ram, despite what apple said, I investigated this and according to people this is tr
So my next question is, will i be able to fit a 512GB SSD from Crucial into my MBP? THe only reason I feel it's a valid question is I had the option of 1 and 2Tb Hdds WITH a 256GB SSD.
Thanks for reading everybody

The only way that you can use both a SSD in your drive bay and another hard drive is to install the hard drive in your optical bay. If you're willing to give up your optical drive, OWC sells kits to do just that.
Then you could use your external drives for data storage & backups.
Is this a workable option?
Clinton

How to instal OS 10.7.5 on a new HD in my late 2011 15" macbook pro

Hi there,
I have just got a late 2011 15" macbook pro i7. My plan is to fit a NEW hard drive.
My older 15" Mid 2010 i5 machine came with discs for OS 10.6 and I would like to move to the 10.7.5 OS that is currently on the OLD hard drive from the NEW macbook.
However I would still like to be able to copy my Data and Aplications from my OLD Macbook to the NEW drive in the NEW macbook.
Sorry I apriciate that is all a little confusing to read.
If i had a hard coppy of OS 10.7 i would be happy. But im new to this Download OS thing.
Thanks for advice!

Hi there,
I have just got a late 2011 15" macbook pro i7. My plan is to fit a NEW hard drive.
My older 15" Mid 2010 i5 machine came with discs for OS 10.6 and I would like to move to the 10.7.5 OS that is currently on the OLD hard drive from the NEW macbook.
However I would still like to be able to copy my Data and Aplications from my OLD Macbook to the NEW drive in the NEW macbook.
Sorry I apriciate that is all a little confusing to read.
If i had a hard coppy of OS 10.7 i would be happy. But im new to this Download OS thing.
Thanks for advice!

Fans continuously run loud on late 2011 13" MacBook Pro

Hey All,
I hav a late 2011 13" MacBook Pro and about a week ago the fans began to run loudly and constantly no matter what I'm doing-whether checking email or running a dozen layers in a Photoshop project. Anyone have any clues? Running Lion, 4 GB RAM--bought an 8 GB kit but not yet installed, would that help? is there a firmware update or something?
Thanks for any assist.

i'm having the same problem too, with my early 2011 mbp 13". recently downloaded iStat pro, and found out that my fans are usually running about 6000rpm, and my CPU temp is above 90. i'm using preview, word/excel and listening to music.
not to beat a dead horse (again) but none of this happened when i was on snow leopard. i upgraded straight from SL to ML, and a host of problems ensued (mostly battery health/life). is it something that can be tracked again to a faulty piece of hardware in the system that was highlighted after the OS upgrade?

Ok, so i bought a 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM for my late 2011 13" MacBook Pro whose memory runs at 1067 MHz (I was also told that late 2011 MBPs run at 1333MHz, is mine an exception?)... Im looking for all possibilities to close the compatibility gap...

Ok, so i bought a 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM for my late 2011 13" MacBook Pro whose memory runs at 1067 MHz (I was also told that late 2011 MBPs run at 1333MHz, is mine an exception, if so, why?)... Im looking for all possibilities to close the compatibility gap because computer freezes at boot and was wondering if there was anything i could do to get this 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM to work at 1067MHz or somehow get my computer to run at 1333MHz?...

You don't have a late 2011 MB Pro.
You have a 2010 version. Your MB doesn't support 16GB. 8GB Max.
That's what it shows on your about this MAC.
You need to return the RAM and get 8GB ( 2 X 4GB ) 1066MHz.
Your system bus is set to 1066MHz.
You're having issues because you've installed more RAM than your MB can support. It's only reading 4GB per bank which totals to 8GB and not 16GB.

[Solved] Beachballs on late 2008 15" MacBook Pro MacBookPro5,1 with SATA II HD

Each time I upgraded hard disks in my late 2008 15" MacBook Pro ( MacBookPro5,1 ) I experienced increasing beachballs. The worst was my recent upgrade to a Seagate 1TB SSD hybrid drive.
I had lived with this pain for years and it appears a simple jumper change could have solved it. In my opinion all or at least some models of the late 2008 MacBook 15" Pros do not reliably support SATA II 3 Gbit/second.
See jumper diagram for Seagate drives. Note the diagram is showing drive laying hard disk circuit board side up. Other manufacturers may differ.
http://knowledge.seagate.com/article...language=en_US
From what I uderstand my late 2008 MacBook Pro was designed to support SATA II 3 Gbit/second with it's Nvidia chip set. In fact every model from late 2008 appears to have support for SATA II.
Then in early 2011 they added support for SATA III 6 Gbit/sec which the 1TB ST1000LM014 hybrid drive also supports. ( Hopefully they got SATA III right in their first 2011 model year. ) Unfortunately for me I do not think they got SATA II right in their first late 2008 model year.
I hope this may help someone avoid the pain I experienced,
-EdOfTheMountain
Hardware Overview:
Model Name:          MacBook Pro
Model Identifier:          MacBookPro5,1
Processor Name:          Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:          2.4 GHz
Number of Processors:          1
Total Number of Cores:          2
L2 Cache:          3 MB
Memory:          8 GB
Bus Speed:          1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version:          MBP51.007E.B06
SMC Version (system):          1.33f8
Serial Number (system):          73******1G0
Hardware UUID:          ****
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State:          Enabled
Serial-ATA
NVidia MCP79 AHCI:
Vendor:          NVidia
Product:          MCP79 AHCI
Link Speed:          3 Gigabit
Negotiated Link Speed:          3 Gigabit
Description:          AHCI Version 1.20 Supported
ST1000LM014-1EJ164:
Capacity:          1 TB (1,000,204,886,016 bytes)
Model:          ST1000LM014-1EJ164
Revision:          SM11
Serial Number:                      W3804LD1
Native Command Queuing:          Yes
Queue Depth:          32
Removable Media:          No
Detachable Drive:          No
BSD Name:          disk0
Rotational Rate:          5400
Medium Type:          Rotational
Partition Map Type:          GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status:          Verified
Volumes:
disk0s1:
Capacity:          209.7 MB (209,715,200 bytes)
BSD Name:          disk0s1
Content:          EFI
ST-1TB:
Capacity:          999.86 GB (999,860,912,128 bytes)
Available:          130.51 GB (130,505,502,720 bytes)
Writable:          Yes
File System:          Journaled HFS+
BSD Name:          disk0s2
Mount Point:          /
Content:          Apple_HFS
<Edited By Host>

Hi Mike,
I am not sure it is same issue if drive is not even recognized. But I would not give up hope. I know my late 2008 MacBookPro5,1 has this problem even though it was designed to work at SATA II 3 Gbit/second. It may be possible that your 2009 model has a similar issue.
If the jumper works for you, then please cut and paste your MacBook's Hardware Overview. It would be nice to see the Serial-ATA hardware too. Go to:
Apple icon
About This Mac
More Info
System Report
My late 2008 is:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name:          MacBook Pro
Model Identifier:          MacBookPro5,1
Processor Name:          Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:          2.4 GHz
Number of Processors:          1
Total Number of Cores:          2
L2 Cache:          3 MB
Memory:          8 GB
Bus Speed:          1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version:          MBP51.007E.B06
SMC Version (system):          1.33f8
Serial Number (system):          73******1G0
Hardware UUID:          ****
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State:          Enabled
Serial-ATA
NVidia MCP79 AHCI:
Vendor:          NVidia
Product:          MCP79 AHCI
Link Speed:          3 Gigabit
Negotiated Link Speed:          3 Gigabit
Description:          AHCI Version 1.20 Supported
-Ed
<Edited By Host>

Can I solve a 2011, 13', macbook pro battery problem

After a local area power cut, my 2011 13' Macbook Pro battery symbol in the menu bar instantly showed that there was a problem with the battery, which had previously shown a 98% charged (full), but now advised me, via a help document that appeared when I clicked on the symbol, that I would need to get my battery serviced as it is not running/charging properly. Perhaps I was remis in not dealing with the problem sooner, but this morning, some 8 months later, the normal battery symbol simply has an X on it. The battery has completely died now and my otherwise incredible Mac will only work when conected to a power source. Is there anything I can do to 'reboot' or reconfigure the battery without paying for a new battery? Many thanks in advance for any help on this.

Try an SMC reset.
Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC) - Support - Apple

My 2011 13'' MacBook Pro has started to run really slow.

I have a 2011 13" MacBook pro and this week it has started to run really slow. Specifically it takes about 3 to 4X longer to do just about every task. The only thing ive done recently was update from Lion 10.7.3 to 10.7.4 and a Safari update. Are there any suggestions on what I should do to fix it or on what could be the potential cause?

Things That Can Keep Your Computer From Slowing Down
If your computer seems to be running slower here are some things you can do:
Boot into Safe Mode then repair your hard drive and permissions:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions Pre-Lion
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Repair the Hard Drive - Lion
Boot from your Lion Recovery HD. When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Restart your computer normally and see if this has helped any. Next do some maintenance:
Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
For situations Disk Utility cannot handle the best third-party utility is Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible.
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger. These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or Lion and should not be installed.
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive. As for virus protection there are few if any such animals affecting OS X. You can protect the computer easily using the freeware Open Source virus protection software ClamXAV. Personally I would avoid most commercial anti-virus software because of their potential for causing problems. For more about malware see Macintosh Virus Guide.
I would also recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX 2.4.3, or Cocktail 5.1.1 that you can use for periodic maintenance such as removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc.
For emergency repairs install the freeware utility Applejack. If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line. Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. There is no confirmation that this version also works with Lion.
When you install any new system software or updates be sure to repair the hard drive and permissions beforehand.
Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
Carbon Copy Cloner
Data Backup
Deja Vu
SuperDuper!
SyncTwoFolders
Synk Pro
Synk Standard
Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
Additional suggestions will be found in Mac maintenance Quick Assist.
Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.
Additional Hints
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
Add more RAM. If your computer has less than 2 GBs of RAM and you are using OS X Leopard or later, then you can do with more RAM. Snow Leopard and Lion work much better with 4 GBs of RAM than their system minimums. The more concurrent applications you tend to use the more RAM you should have.
Always maintain at least 15 GBs or 10% of your hard drive's capacity as free space, whichever is greater. OS X is frequently accessing your hard drive, so providing adequate free space will keep things from slowing down.
Check for applications that may be hogging the CPU:
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the Processes dropdown menu. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time, then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Often this problem occurs because of a corrupted cache or preferences file or an attempt to write to a corrupted log file.
If nothing here seems to help, then reinstall Lion:
Reinstalling Lion Without Erasing the Drive
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion and click on the Continue button.
Note: You can also re-download the Lion installer by opening the App Store application. Hold down the OPTION key and click on the Purchases icon in the toolbar. You should now see an active Install button to the right of your Lion purchase entry. There are situations in which this will not work. For example, if you are already booted into the Lion you originally purchased with your Apple ID or if an instance of the Lion installer is located anywhere on your computer.

Doubts about Late 2013 Haswell Macbook Pro with Retina

TL;DR: With its debut of so many new components (Haswell, ac wi-fi, and intel iris pro), is the late 2013 model a truly reliable laptop for 5+ years of use? Or should I buy the early 2013 which has a better history of fewer complaints because it has stuck to and fixed the problems of its predecessor's components.
I'm buying my first Mac Book Pro after in preparation for college (I will be a highschool senior this year):
My decision has come down to two refurbished products: An Early 2013 Retina Mac Book Pro and a Late 2013 Mac Book Pro
My cousin couldn't make up his mind so he accidentally ordered the mid 2012 model, then changed his mind and ordered the early 2013 model, then changed his mind again and decided on the late 2013 model after testing and comparing all 3 along with his 2011 model.
He decided on the late 2013 model http://store.apple.com/us/product/FE293LL/A/refurbished-154-inch-macbook-pro-20g hz-quad-core-intel-i7-with-retina-display
I personally was still torn between early and late 2013 because the late 2013 didnt have a dGPU.
NOW... I've been pretty convinced that the late 2013 is better in almost all aspects EXCEPT... that a quick search of its problems has brought up myriad problems...
Now you are all probably thinking (well of course u dumdum, nobody is going to complain about their mac book being fine); valid point, until my cousin's new late 2013 model started having almost ALL of the problems I researched including: wi-fi problems, constant crashing/screen freezing, rapid battery drain, random computer reboots..
I got a bit worried, so I also searched for early 2013 model problems, and almost nothing came up (in fact i just found late 2013 complaints). SO... I came to the conclusion that the late 2013 truly WAS a problem model given that the early 2013 had MUCH less complaints online, and that my cousin experienced the same problems described in the complaints for the late 2013 model.
NOW... My cousin has decided to replace what he got by returning it and getting another one... This is all nice and dandy except this time around all the problems were lucky to surface before the 14 day return. Most of the complaints described problems surfacing a few MONTHS after, which is wayyyy beyond the 14 day return policy. My cousin then tried to reassure me that no matter what, Apple was reliable and the 1 yr warranty would cover anything. This wasn't very convincing considering what had already occurred and what I had already seen from online complaints.
It wasn't very convincing BECAUSE this late 2013 model incorporated a WHOLE new bunch of new stuff... whereas the early 2013 model seemed to be pretty consistent with predecessors...
I hypothesize that all this NEW entry level stuff (ac wi-fi, intel iris pro, and haswell) is what is causing problems, and that because so many new additions are put together in concert, problems are bound to surface.
The early 2013 model has similar specs to previous models likely because it IMPROVED on the previous models mistakes. The late 2013 model debuted a lot of new things; there was not time to fix anything yet.
SOOOOOOOO... My final conclusion is uncertain... the late 2013 model is clearly designed to be better, but as an early model using so many new things, I can also see it failing a lot when I need it to last 5+ years for college.
NOW... having read my LONG post, please tell me: Early or late 2013?

I thought about doing what you said above, but unfortunately, I didn't have any spare blank DVD's. However, I was able to sucessfully install Windows & on my Mac. What I did was when I got to the error message, I would cancel the installation and that would return me back to the install now window. At that point, I would take out the flash drive and put it into another USB port. It took a few times, but eventually it recognized the drivers and allowed me to install the software. Remember, once you get past that point, the installation will ask you to choose a drive to install Windows on. Highlight the Boot Camp drive and chose "advanced", and then chose "format" after that. After all of this, it should be smooth sailing.

Where can I buy a larger hard drive for my late 2008, 15" macbook pro? From reviewing questions and answers on the support community it would appear that having Apple remove the old and install the new hard drive is recommended. But how/where?

Where can I buy a larger hard drive for my late 2008, 15" macbook pro? From reviewing questions and answers on the support community it would appear that having Apple remove the old and install the new hard drive is recommended. But how/where?

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
You can install the new hard disk yourself if you want to. You just need a 2'5" SATA II hard drive, which is compatible with your MacBook Pro. You can buy one at OWC > http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/2.5-Notebook/ You can filter hard drives by computer, so press a "Click to view all...", choose your computer in the sidebar and it will give you the compatible hard drives.
There are different brands for the MacBook Pro. The most recommended are HGST and Seagate, which have good reputation. A 7200 rpm hard drive will give you extra performance

Can I install a 1TB Hard Drive into a late 2007 17" MacBook Pro?

Can I install a 1TB Hard Drive into a late 2007 17" MacBook Pro currently running a 160 GB Hard Drive?

It depends upon exactly what you want to do with your Mac. My old Late 2007 17" MacBook Pro only has 4GB RAM and it works fine. It is a little slow if I am doing anything involving heavy computing (rendering video, compiling programs, etc.) but it works just fine. In most cases, the increased RAM will help performance, but the cost can be fairly high with an older machine like you have.

Early 2011 2GHz Macbook pro distorted blue screen then wont boot, 3 times in last 2 weeks

I have an early 2011, 2GHz macbook pro (15' model with ati radeon graphics). It was running fine for the last two years. Over the last couple of weeks, following things happen:
1. I was running on bootcamp windows, browsing and some flash content was open, suddenly distorted blue stripes appear and it froze. Force shut down using power button, turn on again and it wont boot on windows or mac, or recovery partition or from the dvd. Tried for about 4 hours, after nvram, pram reset, it was able to safe boot, then run disk utility to verify and repair the disk, it said that there were problems with hard drive and fixed,then booted normally.
2. I thought that the problem might be because I was on windows, so took a back up of the windows drive, erased it and installed windows 8 using bootcamp. It ran well for an week. After that, once I connected it with the tv using HDMI to watch a video, after I disconnected it, the screen was garbled over the windows start screen, but I was able to command restart normally. After restart, it wont boot to windows or mac.
3. After several hours of trying, i was able to boot using the dvd this time, it said it 'can not install mac on the hard drive', erased the hard drive and it was able to install the os (snow leopard). After completing install, logged in to app store to download previously purchased mountain lion. Then ran it to upgrade the os, after the upgrade was completed, at the point when it prompts for apple id and password to set up icloud, it again froze with distorted blue screen. Shut down forcefully. Then turn on again and it wont boot. After the white screen and the sound, it shows the apple logo and spinning wheel for a while, then a bright white screen and nothing happens.
Can anybody help reading the symptoms?

I have the Early 2011 2GHz Macbook Pro and I have the same problem too.
I switched out the logicboard a month ago and today the graphics just went distorted.
Any solutions? Now I'm thinking it is the Graphics Card.

Is there a way to delete all my info on a late 08 model MacBook Pro

I Traded my iPad 2 for a late 2008 model MacBook pro, When i first recived it there wasent any install disc or anything of that nature,...There was a small amount of information "residue" of the previous owner scatterd through out, I of course wanted it to be MINE....but alas...Apple makes there MacBooks from what i can tell a single owner notebook...its wasent a problem until now when im in the process of selling it my self, I have no real way to find true,helpful,sound instructions on how i could erase all MY information from the memory,And change the administrator of the mac to maybe a default like state until new owner punches in there info?....Any info on this matter would be Greatly apperciated....at the very least maybe a way to delete things with out a restore?....again i have no disc to help in this....Just the internet and now this Apple support communite

You need to call Apple, with your serial number handy, and order a set of machine-specific discs that originally shipped with your MacBook Pro.
After you recieve the discs, following the instructions in How to prepare your Mac for sale.
Good luck,
Clinton

MacBook Pro 17" Glossy (Late 2011) vs MacBook Pro 13" Glossy (Late 2011)

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