PF Loans

Hello Experts,
Is there any option in the system to configure PF Loans.(My requirement is after the employee is eligible for PF loans which may be Marrige,Education etc),where to configure this all.Also there should be a PF reports with details of PF deducted As of Date.
any inputs??
thanks in advance

1) Jus find out, whether the employee had completed 7 years of service.
2) For every employee, you have to generate Contribution card i.e form 3A or Form 6A (Annual Return), check all the information are updated in that form, where you can find the consolidated pf. amount of the employee per year.
3) Pls be informed for Medical and Education advance, only 50% of the employee share will be sanctioned. not the employer contribution.

Similar Messages

  • Issue in Loan Infotype

    Dear Experts,
    I have come across a very weird scenario. In IT45, for eg., if an employee is taking loan of Rs. 570, 614, with effect from 01.01.2014. Now for 2 months, deduction is done @ Rs. 22500. So, Jan - Rs. 22500 + Feb - Rs. 22500 = 45000. Same is being maintained in Payment Tab in IT45, same is been seen in IT78, and the same amount is deducted aga in RT as well. But in Loan Balance Amount it is showing as 0. Please find below screen shot for the same:
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    2. If in Payment Tab Complete amount is added as Loan Payment (External), though in condition tab deduction amount will be entered and same will be deducted every month.
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    Please help solve my query.
    Thanks and Regards,

    Hi Bhagyashree,
    The amounts in display field 'Loan Amount Paid' is not correct.It should be the same amount as 570,614.00.And the 2nd display field 'Loan Balance' amount will be 45,000.However said field values will populate after Payroll run in 1st month of repayment.
    The problem is in the payment tab.
    1st entry must be the 'Loan Balance Transfer In' component with principal amount 570,614.00.Once done then you will see in the Basic Tab 'End Of Loan' date will be automatically estimated as per the condition tab installment.Now system automatically cuts the installment upto the end date.Then the balance WriteOff entry can be entered for closing the loan.
    Presently what is happening is 'Loan Payment External' is taken as loan payment given by company to employee.So its not assuming the principal amount in Basic date tab.This is incorrect.
    Remember the payment tab is for the payment granted by the company to employee same as principal amount & the repayment of loan options via Payroll or external to Payroll.
    Hopes this helps..

  • Income tax rule 2014-15:issue in Loan Interest Limit in infotype 584 for tcode-pa30

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    Sandhya Kodepudi replied (in response to Priya Gupta) 10 minutes ago
    Hi Priya ,
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    Check if it helps to you..with SAP Notes
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  • Is there a free loan calculator that I can put on my iweb site

    Does anyone know of a free loan calculator that I can embed in my iweb site? I need a simple interest loan calculator where you can choose different terms, rates & amount financed.

    777 Development group has something similar, contact them:

  • Closed Auto Loan Reporting As Open Question

    I have an auto loan reporting across all bureaus as open but in good standing. I suppose that is well and good except for the fact that the loan was closed in Dec of last year. My question...would having the loan shown as open reduce my credit score or do you think it's helping? I've heard having a loan of that nature close can reduce your score so I'm not sure what to do about it. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

    Well, see whether you get any other feedback from other folks on here.  But if I were you, I'd just end up having some low grade anxiety if I had a record on my report that claimed I owed a big chunk of money for something I didn't.  The explanation, I assume, is that the creditor never updated the record to show that you paid off the loan. Unless someone here tells you differently, I'd reach out to the lender and confirm with them that they agree that you paid off the loan in December.  If they do agree, explain that they haven't yet updated the final status of the account to show that you paid it off -- and ask them to do that.  That way you'll end up with an accurate report that shows future creditors that you can manage and pay off a car loan. I have allowed incorrect data to stay on my report when it is absolutely 100% positive.  This is a bit of a mixed bag: a record that falsely asserts you still owe a creditor a good chunk of change.  Whetever benefit you get out of it being "open" doesn't seem worth it to me.  But see what other people say.

  • How to get loan balance

    Dear Friends,
    How to get loan balance in HR module.
    any help higly appricated.

    Use the Function Module "PYXX_READ_PAYROLL_RESULT".
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  • Interest calculation on secured loans

    Hi guys,
    I have a customer invoice at 1000 rs after that i have been paid to customer for 5000 rs. The difference amount of 4000 rs (5000 - 1000 ) we have considered as a secured loan. So how can i calculated the interest on the 4000 rs only.
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    In the report RFINTITAR, you use the interest indicator customizing:                                                                               
    IMG   > Prepare Item Interest Calculation   > Ref. Date                                                                               
    (table V_T056UX)   >  field Ref.                                                                               
    (FI Item Interest Calculation: Reference Date)                                                                               
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    incoming payment due date, choosing between:                                                                               
    1 Value Date (or Baseline Date for Net Payment)                      
    2 Document Date                                                      
    3 Posting Date                                                       
    4 Payment Baseline Date                                                                               
    As you can use one interest indicator per customer/vendor you can use only of the dates is used. But, in this
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    of the BADI.

  • Interest calculation on bank loan

    Hi guru,
    we have taken long term loan from 10 banks.we have to calculate interest on loan from each bank.we have maintained each bank loan a/c as a vendor.As we know the procedure as given by sap for balance interest calculation will be followed it correct or more doubt is whether treating each loan a/c as a vendor is correct or not.

    Here you need Balance interest calculation.
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    it will take particular period and need to configure document type SA.
    Item interest calculation used for item wise calculations like vendor wise and customer wise. It depends on payment terms and in this GL accounts Select open item management.
    I hope it is cleared.
    Thanks & Regards,
    Haribabu Bodapudi

  • Interest accrual method calculation for loan interest

    Our company is using the Trsy module for intercompany loans with these settings on the deal:
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    Hi Ron
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  • Report for loans given to customer

    hi to all,
               i m new to abap, i have requirement for developing a report that list loans given to unable to find table for loans please help me out .its very very urgent.

    Are you talking about monetary loans or goods such as equipments, shipping material (containers, pallets,etc.) ? For goods loans you have to look up MSEG for movement type and special stock indicator. Standard is 621/V for loans and 622/V for returns. Hope that helps

  • Cosigning Student Loans - Learn From My Mistakes - Please Read

    I have gone through a nightmare due to a student loan that I co-signed on, and I am creating this post in the hopes that you will learn from my mistakes. Please pass this post on to anyone who you think would benefit, and hopefully save them a lot of heartache and anxiety. My post is lengthy, but please be patient and read it, it could literally save your financial life.Briefly here is my situation: I am the co-signer on a $60K Sallie Mae private student loan where the primary borrower has defaulted on me, meaning they have told me they cannot pay a dime, have no intention of changing their lifestyle to do so, and will not tell me when, if ever, they will make good on this. Meanwhile, as the guarantor of the loan, I have been subjected to the full force of SM collection agency practices, and forced to face the music while the primary person on this loan can blissfully ignore the situation as if it was not happening. After multiple weeks of heartache, anxiety and worry over my financial future, I found in the fine print that if I make 24 consecutive on-time payments, then I am off the hook. I verified this with SM and am now 6 months into paying this off. As long as nothing unexpected occurs, I am looking forward to being off the hook in 18 months, having learned an expensive but not life altering lesson, as I was originally facing. Now let me go into some lessons, please pass these on to anyone you think would benefit - let's make this post the most widely read one on FICO forums, this is so important. And now my hard lessons learned:Lesson #1: DO NOT COSIGN A STUDENT LOAN: especially private student loans which carry higher interest rates. When you cosign a loan, you are the guarantor: you are putting your good credit profile on the line and telling the loan agency that you are responsible if anything ever happens with the primary borrower and they are unable to pay. All the obligations are on your shoulders, in fact, in many ways you are more responsible than the primary borrower, and this is how the loan and collection agencies will treat you. If you think: that's just the fine print, that will never happen, think again. It happens all the time, are you willing and able to take on this burden if you have to? Possibilities become reality, and this is a reality you do not want to be a part of, trust me on this. If you want to help someone, find other ways to do it outside of the system. Loan them the money as an individual, or pay their rent or expenses, that way, if problems arise, you don't have to get credit agencies, loan agencies, and collections agencies involved. If you are a parent and want to help your child, see Lesson #2.Lesson #2: LOAN ONLY WHAT YOU CAN LOSE: Every rule has exceptions, so the exception to Lesson #1 is this: only cosign on a loan if you are absolutely willing and able to pay off the full loan obligation. When you cosign you are lending your good name and credit profile, and you are effectively loaning money that you will have to pay back if the primary borrower defaults. In other words, never loan more than you are willing to lose, and therefore never cosign for more than you are willing to lose. And be willing to accept that the fact that your relationship with the primary borrower may be permanently damaged if you are forced to step in and cover their obligations.Lesson #3: LOANS GROW: I cannot emphasize this point enough, it really burned me: I did not co-sign a loan for 60K, I co-signed for 45K, and without my knowledge the primary borrower capitalized the interest during the first 18 months of the loan, which they were allowed to do, but it caused the loan to grow by 33%. So when it came time to guarantee the loan, I was on the hook for 60K, which I had never originally agreed to.Lesson #4: SALLIE MAE DOES NOT CARE: And why should they? This is business. As co-signer, you are the guarantor of the loan, you have to make good on the obligation when the primary borrower defaults. In fact, as guarantor, the loan and collection agencies will go after you harder than the primary borrower. Do you have a good credit and collateral, such as a house? Well this binds your obligation even more tightly. When loan and collections agencies see that you have the wherewithal to pay, they will not let you off the hook. And they don't care if paying off their loan puts you on the street. This is business and you have to pay up. Understand this black and white reality before you co-sign a loan. Lesson #5: DON’T DELAY PAYMENTS: Forbearance and deferments are often mentioned as options for helping out on loan obligations, but do not fall into this trap: they make a bad loan situation worse, they don't help. Deferment does not prevent interest from accumulating: you'll just have a bigger loan to pay when the deferment ends. Student loans typically give you a deferment grace period, usually 6 months, before you have to start paying back the loan. Most of us have to use this initial grace period, but please avoid it if you can, it just makes your loan grow larger. Forbearance is another method of delay, but it requires you to make the loan current before the loan agency can talk to you. In other words, you have to be paid up on what you currently owe before the loan agency will talk to you about forbearance. Think about this Catch-22: you can't pay your current loan obligations, so you ask the loan agency for help. The loan agency won't talk to you until you make the loan current. Never use deferment or forbearance, they make your bad situation worse. Lesson #6: NO LEGAL RECOURSE: Student loan debt is not dischargeable in bankruptcy court proceedings, it is debt that you will carry for life until it is paid off, regardless of what happens to you. And don't assume that the loan agency will only take legal action against the primary borrower in a default situation: they will also take legal action against you. Remember, you are equally responsible, you will be held legally accountable. And don't think that you can sue the primary borrower. You can only sue them if you have a separate promissory note with them, signed and notarized, that they have defaulted on. And even if you do, it is expensive and time-consuming to sue someone, especially if they have moved out-of-state, and practically impossible if they have moved out-of-country. You could probably never come out ahead, unless the amount owed was so large as to make it worth it. Unless you are wealthy, or a big organization, do not rely on your option to take legal action in the future, it's often just not practical. Lesson #7: WOULD I DO BUSINESS WITH THIS PERSON?: When you co-sign for a family member, there is a certain level of built in trust in the relationship, but when you co-sign for a friend, or girlfriend, or boyfriend, you are putting your faith in the future: faith that they will be around in the future and that they will always have your best interests at heart. Please wake up. People take advantage of other people all the time. Especially when it comes to money, people get scared and choose to hide under a rock, disappear, ignore the problem as if it does not exist. If you are the co-signer, you are the guarantor. If the primary borrower understands this, then they can choose to disappear and leave you holding the bag. Do not assume that the person who cares for you now will always care what happens to you. Business is business, personal is personal. When you are asked to co-sign for a loved one, ask yourself first: do I want to go into business with this person? How do they resolve conflict? If they get into trouble one day will they work with me? Or will they disappear on me? Do they have a conscience, and will they care how this affects me? Or will they see an opportunity to be off the hook? Ask yourself these hard questions. And don’t assume that they will think as responsibly as you. Don’t assume that they care what happens to their credit score, or what this means for the future. Treat the primary borrower as a person you are doing business with, and therefore someone who you need to rely on when times get tough. Chances are, you are the more responsible person here, so ask yourself, can I really afford to go into business with this person?Lesson #8: PROTECT YOURSELF: If your credit score gets damaged over a bad loan, your total financial life will be affected for a long time. It doesn't matter how good your intentions are, it doesn't matter why you got into a financial bind, it doesn't matter that your family member was sick, or that you were going through a hard time, or that you are low on money because you gave it all to charity. The current system of credit scoring requires you to keep your total financial profile in a healthy state at all times. If you are delinquent on payments, or worse, default on loan obligations, then your credit will suffer and you will be affected for a long time. You will be unable to qualify for loans, you will be unable to get good interest loans. Think about the effect this will have on your family in the future: not being able to afford a house for them because you can't get a loan, because you made a good faith error several years before. That's the reality you have to avoid, so protect yourself at all times.Lesson #9: AND FINALLY: Some people reading this will feel that I am missing the point: that of course loans carry obligations, and of course there are consequences if loan payments are missed. For the record, I relied on Sallie Mae loans to get me through college and grad school. I made all my payments on time, I paid my loans off, I even used the available 6 month deferment. But this only worked because I was responsible, because I had a plan, because I understood my monthly and total financial obligations at all times, and never made a life decision that would compromise my ability to pay. Cold reality: many people in this world are not responsible, they don't think through the consequences of their decisions, they are unable or unwilling to look at the hard facts. When you co-sign with one of these individuals, as I did, you are tethering your good name and your financial future to them. If they fail in their responsibility, they will take you down with them. Do not let this happen, protect yourself, you have worked too hard in your life to let an irresponsible person take you down. I hope you have found this posting useful. Please pass it on so that everyone can learn from my mistakes and hard-earned lessons.

    My heart goes out to you. My stomach was in knots for you just reading about your situation. Thanks for the lessons learned. I co-signed a private education loan with my ex husband. I wish I had someone like you back then to sit me down and make me really think. Unfortunately, I was young and naive and never thought twice about co-signing. Even though the original loan amount was small by most standards (less than $8000), here it is 10 years later and that stinking loan is still attached to my credit rating. It's barely halfway paid off with another 10 years to go. The ex is a bit of a deadbeat so after some late payments a few years ago, he has since only made the minimum payments. At this rate, I will be ready to retire when that stupid thing is paid and off my reports. I am very conscientious about my own financial health and have less than $1000 on a credit card, a little of my own student loans, and a reasonable mortgage. BUT because I am forever listed as co-signer of this silly loan, it actually drags down my FICO rating. I could suck it up and pay off the whole balance myself in a few months time....which causes me to feel sick to my stomach. Its my only option besides watching this thing languish for 10 more years.

  • NASA Auto Loan Questions

    So I recently got approved for NASA membership and CC. I am also toying with the idea of getting a new car or truck. Currently drive a 07 Accord that has been paid of for a few years now. While I love having 0 car payments I kinda want something more sporty.
    Anyone have any experience with NASA auto loans and their process? Im probably gonna shoot for end of year should I take on a new vehicle. My approval score for NASA according to the paperwork was 666Ex but myFico had me in the 640s so not sure what version they pull. Currently myFico has me in the 670s and that should only get better.
    Any thoughts, help or even recommendations would be amazing. :-)

    Aloha ,   Congrats on your approval membership with NASA Cu.first,  I would agree with you to wait until you improve your score, try to keep that beast first premier,Fingerhut down to a very low balance even $0 balance, its good to rebuild your credit but in the long run, it time you outgrew the high interest cards,Now that you got approved CC,with NASA try to put  usage with card and build up good payment history try to keep your utilities down under 20% when your ready to..I have a Checking account with NASA, others a happy but am in favor with NFCU, they are more in the same , my opinion NFCU better customer  service.   That being said, NASA CU  products in comparison are virtually the same,  good rates, competitively, I receive offers, the only headache I have with NASA when your need assistance, after hours can be a pain, but otherwise, stick to your goals   now your in with NASA and already have been aproved for a cc. You should be in good shape by the end of the year, sporting down the Kaumualiʻi Highway   Again , Ho'omaika'i ana , Pomaikai 

  • NASS Auto Loan Questions

    So I recently got approved for NASA membership and CC. I am also toying with the idea of getting a new car or truck. Currently drive a 07 Accord that has been paid of for a few years now. While I love having 0 car payments I kinda want something more sporty.
    Anyone have any experience with NASA auto loans and their process? Im probably gonna shoot for end of year should I take on a new vehicle. My approval score for NASA according to the paperwork was 666Ex but myFico had me in the 640s so not sure what version they pull. Currently myFico has me in the 670s and that should only get better.
    Any thoughts, help or even recommendations would be amazing. :-)

    Many of the subprime banks are going to cap how old the car can be and how many miles the car can have and a 4runner (while a great bullet proof choice) at that price probably is not going to fall in those perimeters if I had to guess.but check and you can get pre-qual for used car loan

  • Credit/Loan Approval Questions

    Need some help on what to do to with my credit to get best interest rate. So my current scores showing in MyFico are 603, 612 and 615. Fico Auto 8 score is 629. This past weekend I was at a dealership and they pulled my credit giving me a 583? Why would there be a difference?  Here's the situation.Have about 4,800 left on a car payment that has about 16 months left, interest rate was around 1.9% This is my oldest account- opened in 2011. I just read that you should keep your oldest account opened. I have about 4,700 in credit cards with the limits totalling 5,500 - I know this is high utilziation. I will have access to 5k in cash in about a month. I cannot decide what would be the best route. Should I pay off my car or pay off credit cards? Which would look better?I am leaning toward credit cards. I had a collection account that I just paid off this past month that was about $700 which is still showing as not paid - it should be updated soon - but I'm sure that will get me declined until that is updated as paid. Current payment is $310 My current income is about 2,600 per month. I don't have rent or mortage payment. I am wanting to finance for about 38-40k Would it be better to take that 5k and put as a down payment? Or maybe even pay enough to get credit cards under 30%? I also have a student loan that is in defferenment until 2018 - will this be taken into consideration to be approved? If so how do they factor this in? I have a co-signer with about 2,600 per month also if needed. What would give me the best credit profile to be approved with the best rate?To add - I want a Jeep Wrangler - does anyone know how hard or what kind of score you need to get good financing?

    Southernchic wrote:
    I typed the income part wrong it's about 70k combined (minimum as it can be more as my other half frequently works overtime but I've heard they only count your base income?) 1.9 would be nice but I'm not expecting to get 1.9% as circumstances were different when I got that, I think under 5 % would be do able. I was simply asking does it matter to the banks of you already have a car payment when you try to get one? And what would be the best solution. I've read you won't be approved with multiple auto loans but I've also read you shouldn't pay off or close your longest open account which is what my car loan would be. So I guess Paying off credit cards (12% rates) would be the best. I am hoping to get lower than 38-40k but I just put that out there as a max. What about the collection accounts that have been paid - will that be an automatic decline? I just checked and that account has been updated showing a zero balance but it says agreed to pay for less than full amount, this is incorrect as the original amount was wrong and I paid the correct amount we agreed to. Should I dispute this, how will that look to banks?My wife and I actually just bought her a brand new Jeep Wrangler last month so I'll give you our experience. Our combined incoming is currently around 74k. We did file for a chapter 7 bankruptcy last year so our situation may be a little different. We had trouble getting approved because neither one of us had experience with car loan above 20k. Our scores were in the 640s/650s. Under 10% credit card utilization. We ended up having to have her dad co-sign on the loan with her through Ally Financial for 37k, 1k down at 6.9%. And he has a mid-700 score 150k income. We're hoping to refinance with Navy Fed ASAP.  Absolutely pay the credit cards down. To boost your score, one card should be reporting less than 10% balance, and the others zero. This will give you your best chance. And the reporting is correct if you did settle for anything less than the full amount owed. 

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