A light at the end of a tunnel

Just seen a guy working on the cabinet that provides my street, I double checked that it was no.28 he said yes, I asked when is it going live, he said he didn't know but it shouldn't be too long now as he has just turned it on, all we have to wait for now is BT, so hopefully not too long now.

Hi Midgetgem1973,
Not sure why you wanted a list of FTTC cabinets for your area but here you are.
Below are the FTTC cabinets in the BB8 postcode area (be that already installed & FTTC available and those that are still either being installed/commissioned or planned to be installed)
PCP (Cabinet)
Exchange
FTTC Status
BB89NF
1
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB88DW
2
COLNE
Available
BB89QW
3
COLNE
Available
BB89RH
4
COLNE
Available
BB89LU
5
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB80NW
6
COLNE
Available
BB80PH
7
COLNE
Available
BB80NZ
8
COLNE
Available
BB87PE
9
COLNE
Available
BB87BN
11
COLNE
Available
BB87HE
12
COLNE
Available
BB88QU
13
COLNE
Available
BB80RB
15
COLNE
Available
BB88JN
16
COLNE
Available
BB89EJ
17
COLNE
Available
BB89BA
18
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB89SJ
19
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB88AD
20
COLNE
Available
BB87HL
21
COLNE
Available
BB80AZ
22
COLNE
Available
BB88SA
23
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB87JZ
25
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB80NQ
26
COLNE
Available
BB80PJ
27
COLNE
Available
BB88BJ
28
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB80LQ
29
COLNE
Available
BB88BF
31
COLNE
Available
BB80LH
32
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB80EJ
33
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
BB80LG
34
COLNE
Still being Installed/Commsioned
*** Number of postcodes analysed: 754 | Out of : 754 | Number of hits : 30 ***
It can take some time for a FTTC DSLAM cabinet to be fully commissioned and set as ready to accept FTTC orders.
As you can see from the above, your cabinet 28 is still in the process of being commissioned/installed.
As recommended by others your best to keep checking the BT Wholesale database at http://dslchecker.bt.com/adsl
Hopefully it won't be long till you can order FTTC fibre broadband such as BT Infinity.
jac_95 | BT.com Help Site | BT Service Status
Someone Solved Your Question?
Please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’
Try a Search
See if someone in the community had the same problem and how they got it resolved.

Similar Messages

I noticed a Strange light after the end of my ipad2 screen it is located far down to the right, it makes me feel that maybe the scree is not replaced tight so the light is coming , I can see that light when I turn my iPad to a 45 degree angle , any help?

I noticed a Strange light after the end of my ipad2 screen it is located far down to the right, it makes me feel that maybe the scree is not replaced tight so the light is coming , I can see that light when I turn my iPad to a 45 degree angle , any help? I donna what to do , I bought it from 2 days in Moscow ..
Any help will be really appreciated.
Best regards.

I have red about light leakage but it different from my situation , when I see my iPad in dark room , I can't find any problems but i notice light after the end of the screen which is very strange.
Are u sure this count as light leakage also?

Aperture 2.1.4 & SL -- Any Light at the end of the Tunnel?

On my Macbook, Aperture with SL dies just after the initial screen comes up (the one with the SN, etc). Activity Monitor and Force Quit suggests that it is running, but just not ever getting to the main screen. I've read through the long threads here discussing this and similar problems, replaced the Framework file, and completed all the steps in the Apple Tech support note HT2945, up to and including a database rebuild, removal of pref, presets, etc, and reinstallation. and update. The ONLY way I can get to a working screen now is to delete prefs, start with ALT-CMD, and do the consistency check. It then comes up with a basic screen that lets me navigate projects, etc. The part that seems to consistently kill it involves accessing anything associated with the vault. The screen redraw goes flaky and the whole thing grinds to a halt. I have masters relocated to a network drive -- something that worked fine up until the recent upgrades.
Aperture 2.xx worked like a charm on this Mac up until a couple of months ago. I'm feeling a bit let down by Apple on this. Thirty years of pictures essentially unavailable. Anyone have any suggestions on next steps?

Ben wrote:
Emory wrote:
Are you really trying to say that I should be greatful for getting any email at all on a device sold and marketed for mobile email? You really think they're giving something away for free?
Of course not, its still a business, and business generally like to make money. However the BIS server is designed as a "Consumer" level of service, and isn't targeted towards the business segment. That is after all what BES is designed to do.
IMAP support is a relativly recent addition, and like anything else thats been added in the past, I'm sure its support will be expanded.
The BES is designed to manage, deploy, and enforce policy on mobile devices and enable them to talk to proprietary email services/groupware that they otherwise wouldn't be able to talk to.
I'm not asking for the world here -- I just want IMAP support to mean that RIM actually supports IMAP. I'm not an enterprise. I have no interest in hiring a company to maintain an Exchange infrastructure for me. And even if I did, I could use ActiveSync with a variety of devices that still wouldn't require a BES. But that wouldn't be a BlackBerry device, and I'm rather fond of mine.
While I can appreciate that the BIS is a "Consumer" level of service, that doesn't mean that we're not looking for so-called "Big Business" features like having more than one folder for email. It means that some consumers don't like flushing money down the toilet to support an architecture like Exchange. Steering people towards a BES means you're really just steering them away from RIM.
We're able to do much more, with less resources, relying on open services: Cyrus IMAP, Postfix MTA, and a *wide variety* of MUAs.   Why I would scuttle cost-effectiveness and instead opt to spend around $2800 to get a single-user license for the BES on top of the hardware and software costs of Exchange is completely beyond me.

Does the light on the power cord always mean connected?

I have a PowerBook with a very finicky power supply and an almost totally dead battery. When the battery is in and the power supply is connected (green light), the machine turns off after about a second and a half after flashing a low battery message.
When the battery is removed and the power supply is connected, it lasts a little longer, and then randomly shuts down, maybe 3 or 4 minutes in.
I'm only booting in Target Disk mode because the OS is corrupted after PowerBook completed said unexpected shutdown while OSX must have been doing something.
So the question is, does the green light on the end of the power cable guarantee that the machine is actually connected to the power source? Or could the power cable be lying about its connected status, or possibly not delivering a full amount of power? The situation is most mysterious to me. Could it be most likely fixed by buying a new battery and power supply, or does it sound like there is something wrong with the DC-in board or another internal hardware component?
Thanks,
Mark

Hi Mark,
I don't know the specific answer to your question, but thought I'd pass on that even with a bad DC In board, my power supply looked like it was functioning normally...
So, suspect that even with a green or amber light, you could still have a problem...
I'd take the computer and power supply to a Mac store to see if a replacement power supply fixes your problem... Maybe a new power supply will charge the 'dead' battery...
Bob

I suddenly have two flashing lights on my keyboard by the caps lock key and over the end/pg up key.

I encountered a problem waking my laptop (Pavilion dv7-1270us) this morning. At first it would not wake up and had to do a hard reboot. Now I have two flashing lights on the keyboard -the caps lock light and the one over the end/pg up keys over the number pad. I have run several diagnostics and cannot find an answer as to what this is.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
You're welcome and it's good to hear you've got it working
All the best,
DP-K
****Click the White thumb to say thanks****
****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
****I don't work for HP****
Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience

Do you have any ideas why Motion 5 would run slow on a computer? I have an Imac with 8Gigs of ram, and plenty of hard drive space, but it still gives me the beach ball when I add a few lights and effects. I'm at the end of my rope.

Do you have any ideas why Motion 5 would run slow on a computer? I have an Imac with 8Gigs of ram, and plenty of hard drive space, but it still gives me the beach ball when I add a few lights and effects. I'm at the end of my rope.

You probably don't really need 1080 at 60 for your finished projects but since you're just starting out with Motion, you need to lower your expectations. A long way. 1080 is about 2 million pixels per frame, DV is only about 400,000. That's not just five times as many pixels for the Mac to track; everything in video is exponential.
Explore the training tutorials available by Mark Spencer. You will get an idea of how his super powerful machine reacts with the software.
Adding a light roughly doubles the processing time over flat scenes. Two lights increases processing again. Reflections require processing the lights and then calculating the reflections so add another quarter of the time required for flat scenes. Add camera movement, motion blur, and depth of field and you need exponentially more processing time for every frame. The preload of renders into RAM is one of the cooler features of Motion, as comapred to After Effects, but that takes tons of time, to.
Try working in ye olde DV resolution for a few days. Get to know the software's limitations and what gets imposed by your Macintosh. Step up to 720p/30 and see how things slow down.

HT5313 I have been trying for weeks to download update 10.7.5 and cannot do so. I do get a message at the end - "connection reset by peer". Can anyone shed any light on why I cannot download this update and what the message may mean? Thanks.

I have been trying for weeks to download update 10.7.5 and cannot do so. I do get a message at the end - "connection reset by peer". Can anyone shed any light on why I cannot download this update and what the message may mean? Thanks.

Take a look at this discussion and the ones listed under "more like this" in the right column:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4166820?start=0&tstart=0

My hp touchsmart tx2-1274dx will not boot it has blinking lights by the caps lock and end button

my hp touchsmart tx2-1274 dx will not boot. all i get is a blank screen and a blinking white light next to the caps lock button and above the end button.

Can you id the flash sequence?
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&destPage=document&docname=c01443366&jumpid=reg_r10...
******Clicking the Thumbs-Up button is a way to say -Thanks!.******
**Click Accept as Solution on a Reply that solves your issue to help others**

At the end of my patience with BT

Two weeks ago, a rushed delivery driver rounding the tight corner in the dark outside of my house crashed into my telegraph pole (actually on the roadside). It made a very loud noise, I rushed outside but he had driven away leaving part of the vans trim behind (which I have still got). I find it hard to believe that the instant problems that I have had with my telephone and broadband since then are not connected. Initially I noticed that the telephone line was very noisy, then I noticed that the broadband (usually 6.5-ish MBps) was much reduced - I used the BT Wholesale Speedtest and discovered that it was 3.9 MBps,
I contacted Technical help, going through the checks they identified that when we unplugged the broadband line the telephone instantly cleaned up, they ordered me a replacement Hub as they felt the original was faulty (they were not interested in the Telegraph pole story). The Hub arrived 2 days later and I fitted it - no change, I called in the problem again and spend a couple of hours going through all of the checks, including getting cut off a couple of times during transfers between Departments which necessitated calling in again, starting from scratch. It was suggested that the reduced IP profile and slow speeds was the result of the new Hub not being stabilised and so I was asked to leave it a few days, if it hadn't levelled out, call it in again.
It didn't magically mend itself. I spend another couple of hours trying to get to someone who can help but 'the script' is unavavoidable. I was cut off at least twice being transferred to 'Level 2' which meant 'start again from scratch'. Because of the noisy line and the amount of time involved I also tried the Online Live Chat on 3 or 4 occasions but was unable to get anywhere - it is so easy to get 're-queued' when the problem outstrips the agents grade, Everyone was very kind and caring using the exact same apologetic phrases, no-one owned the problem enough to solve it. I asked to be transferred to the department who would handle my cancellation, at last, someone based in the UK!! I vented my total frustration and she was most sympathetic, I explained that the offshore call-centre and the convoluted telephone system was not working for me, she was sure that the engineer who I had been allocated for the next day would sort everything out for me, on the spot. I relented putting my total disatisfaction down to the fact that within the last 10 days I had probably devoted 12 hours to simply reporting, testing, waiting on hold for an advisor, or using the Live Chat - like everyone else - I simply don't have time for that the week before Christmas. I am a Phone, Broadband and Vision customer, Vision is useless with low speed, phones are useless when so noisy, broadband is pointless when contantly dropping out.
The engineer visited, he replaced the main socket to a brand-new one as the existing socket (although the newer vision style, one socket above the other) was known to have issues. The phone was quiet, broadband showed 4.5 MBps but that was because the IP Profile was 4.5MBps - he suggeated I call it in and get the Profile reset. As he left I was on the phone, I waited 12 minutes to get through to 'stage 1' and noticed that as time passed the a noise started and grew to the same level as before his visit, I then spent another 3 hours reporting the problem, getting disconnected, starting again, getting cut-off when line testing whilst I was invited to accept a call on my mobile which being in a poor reception area was always going to be a bad option, then getting cut-off again between transfers to 'Level 2' and restarting the whole thing from scratch. Ultimately a very nice Level 2 lady promised me that unlike my experience to date, she would personally ensure that my Profile was improved and call me the next morning (today) between 9 and 10am to confirm everything was ok and if not, send out an engineer. By 10pm last night I indeed had a connection speed of 6.9MBps, the phone line was quiet, my Profile was 7.1MBps. She called this morning and I thanked her for her help and we went our seperate ways.
Twenty minutes after her call it rained, the phone line became very noisy, my connection speed dropped to 2.5MBps dropping out every 5 minutes, disaster. I called it in again, another wasted 2 hours that I will never get back, only cut off twice this time, on one occasion I got a voice mail message saying "we were cut off, call in again and someone will help you" I felt quite angry by that point. On my final try I got through to someone who listened and has arranged an engineer for Tuesday (Christmas Eve!) but that as he can see nothing wrong with the line, and as the noise cleared up during the course of our conversation, that I will possibly get charged £129 for the privilige. Throughout all of this, no-one would consider the Telegraph pole damage as a potention cause of a HR fault, especially in the presence of water from rain. I have tried to get it across but one of the Bangalore crowd just gave me Openreach's telephone number to get it sorted, I only realised that was a 'get rid of him' tactic when the chap at Openreach said that basically they only deal with poles knocked over or dangerous in some other way.
The last Adviser suggested I left it a few days and if not resolved call it in again, it was 13.03pm, I explained that it had taken from 10am to get to that stage with him, there was no way I was going to start from scratch reporting the same problem on Monday, he promised to call me on Monday (the day before the engineer visit was arranged) so we had time to cancel it if all was well (although as nothing was being done in the meantime, no IP profile reset etc it was most unlikely to mend itself by my past experience) He thought it was probably a faulty Hub, he asked me to refit the original which I did, the inevitabilty of the eventual fail is so draining.
I live in a Rural area, there is no fibre optic, I have spent the last few minutes prior to registering on this forum investigating Satellite Broadband. Why can BT simply not send one person, capable of broadband AND phone? Why is the Indian Call-Centre so regimented in adhering to a standard script showing almost no initiative. What ever happened to the UK Call-Centre? Most importantly, bearing in mind that my current fault is the same as it has been since the van-crash - what do you Moderators suggest that I get the engineer to specifically do if on Tuesday when he turns up he finds 'no-issue'? - ask him to wait for it to rain?
Apologies for this long rant but the inability to talk to a UK based, free-thinking Technical Help and Customer Service Departments must be costing a fortune. Forget the savings in running the technicians abroad, they cannot possible offset the wasted time, replacement equipment thats not needed, engineer visits that are not addressing the real issues (my first engineer was telephone, not broadband) and the resulting customer disatisfaction must force customers to leave BT in droves. I used to be with Plus Net and only transferred to get Vision, Bt own Plus Net, they could learn a great deal from their Customer Service model, this is all so sad.
Regards
Scott
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Engineer called on Christmas Eve and diagnosed a HR fault which he struggled to find. In the end he re-routed the line feed back to the exchange (700 metres away), found the connection in the exchange, came back to the house and the phone line was silent and the broadband experienced a solid connection. Since then I have had a 4.8/4.9MBps connection as the IP profile is set at 5MB. I received a call from the Tech in Bangalore who put forward a reset for me but being by that time 5pm on Christmas Eve It would be unreasonable to expect it to be implimented before the end of play on Friday 27th - so I am being patient.
Many of us, who have vast experience, feel frustrated by the call-centre 'script' system that treats us all the same ("have you tried turning it off and on again? What colours are the lights on the front of the hub?"!!!) But just how do you get the Call Centre staff to appreciate that some of us can diagnose quite complicated problems on our own, and only contact them when we know an engineer is required on-site? Personally I would PAY to have a way of contacting a UK based BT Tech Support that could listen and respond appropriately, for BT, surely that would save them time and money too.
So other than the IP profile issue this is now solved, it was a High Resistance fault, I told them that when I first reported it on about 12th December (at which point the Bangalore Call Centre Chap said "what is a HR fault?" - I had to explain it). Since then I have spent probably 14 very frustrating hours on the telephone to BT (in the busiest week of the year), had two engineer visits (the first was a 'phone only' subcontractor not trained in broadband, the second fixed the issue) and I have also been supplied with a new Hub (which was unnecessary, I did point that out) and I am left feeling let down by their inability to listen and consider that the customer may have been right.
If the speed issue is not resolved I will re-post stage two of this saga, other than that I do hope that I do not need to come back to post on the forum again. Simple faults turn into extended and unbelievable drama thanks to the way BT organise their customer service nowadays, everyone has at least one story, some have many. I have 10 months of my contract left, maybe I should go back to PlusNet ? They have UK based sensible staff and when I have experienced a fault in the past I have left it to them to bludgen BT engineering into mending the infrastructure, saving me doing do the leg-work, wasting all this time and getting frustrated and stressed myself.
For those still struggling with the BT behemoth I sympathise, I hope that you are lucky enough to get through to someone who takes you seriously and does not let go of your problem until it is solved.
Lets all hope for a Happy, Prosperous and Fault-Free New Year!
Regards
Scott

Hello Simple problem - don,t know how to solve it. With Premiere CC when I try to do a selection (click... drag... release the click) very often it stop way before the end of the move I'm swinging the Magic Mouse. I taught that the mouse clicking was de

Hello
Simple problem - don,t know how to solve it.
With Premiere CC when I try to do a selection (click... drag... release the click) very often it stop way before the end of the move I'm swinging the Magic Mouse. I taught that the mouse clicking was defective and went to get a new Magic Mouse after lots of frustration. Today, I have an edit to do it it does the SAME thing !!
I was like ????#$%?&*(???
Opened all the lights and taught I've trow the new mouse to the garbage and was using the defective mouse again... no !! - ??
Actually, the bran new mouse is doing the same thing. What I understand after investigating on the motion and watching carefully my fingers !! - is that when I click I have to keep my finger at the EXACT same place on the mouse... drag and release and it's fine. If I click by pushing on the mouse and my finder is moving of a 1/32th of a millimeter, it will release and my selection will be to redo. You can understand my frustration ! - 75$ later... same problem, but I know that if I click with about 5 pounds of pressure and trying to pass my finger through the plastic of the mouse, it you stay steady and make it !
The problem is that scrolling is enable while clicking and it bugs.
How to disable it ??
Simple question - can't find the answer !

Helllooo !?
sorry but the Magic Mouse is just useless with the new Adobe Premiere CC and since I'm not the only one but can't find answer this is really disappointing. This mouse is just fantastic and now I have to swap from a USB mouse to the Magic Mouse every times I do some editing. My USB mouse if hurting my hand somehow and I want to got back to the Magic Mouse asap. Please - for sure there is a simple solution !
Thanks !!

Reformatting External Hard drive: Disk Utility crashes near the end

I recently updated to Leopard and emptied off my external hard drive and then wanted to (zero out data &) reformat it and start fresh so as to use it with the new Time Machine feature.
However, near the end of reformatting it with Disk Utility the progress just stopped and after giving it some time I did a force quit and sure enough it came to light that it had crashed. Since then I've tried again several times to the same result. I even tried doing it of the Disk Utility on the install CD and it crashed with one minute left!!
Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated!

Use a more powerful utility such as DiskWarrior, or a product such as those listed here.
(108710)

Is it possible to delay the flash on a T5i to fire at the end of a long exposure shot

I'm wanting to take long exposure shots of dancers and would like the flash to fire at the end of the exposure instead of the begining to increse the depth of field right as the shutter closes. Is that possible using the on camera flash of a T5i and if so what are the settings?
Thanks,
John

When you use a TTL flash (Canon's E-TTL or E-TTL II) the camera uses a multi-zone metering system (think of an imaginary grid system overlaying your image) and (1) meters with no flash at all, then (2) fires a pre-flash at very low power while simultaneously metering again. It then compares the difference in each zone between #1 and #2 to determine how much of a difference the flash made. By doing this it can identify highly reflective surfaces (e.g. mirrors, glass, reflective metals, etc.) and eliminate those from the flash evaluation. It can also find zones where the flash seemingly made no difference at all (e.g. if there was a light source in that zone... such as a lamp) and elminate those. Light sources and reflections would ordinarily fool a flash metering system into thinking it had produced enough light ... even if it hadn't. With those zones safely eliminated it can then compare the difference for each zone between #1 and #2 to determine how much addtional power should be necessary to correctly light them.
It does all of this during the pre-flash. The shutter is closed when it does this (the light will not affect your image.)
Then the shutter opens and at some point it fires the flash again... only this time using the power level calculated during the pre-flash phase. Only this second firing of the flash will show up in your image.
If you switch the flash to manual mode, you wont get a pre-flash.
The on-board flash is useful as a "fill" flash (decreasing the severity of shadows) and it can be used as a primary flash IF the subject is reasonably close (e.g. around 10' is fine... 14' feet is a stretch and beyond that... not so great.)
An externally attached speedlite flash can provide significantly more power. It can also be located off-camera to provide better lighting (on camera lighting is "flat" because there's no highlight/shadow side to any 3D surface... textures look 2D as a result.)
As for "depth of field"... this is a different problem and the flash can help, but there are some caveats.
If you're shooting indoors with only the available light in the room, then you're likely in challenging circumstances and using lenses with wide-open apertures. Hence the depth of field is fairly narrow.
If you could increase the lighting then you could reduce the aperture opening and increase the depth of field.
But there is a catch.... light exhibits a property sometimes called "fall off". This is because it follows a rule in physics called the "inverse square law" whereby the intensity of light decreases as the distance from the light source increases. Each time the distance from the light source increases by the square root of 2, the light intensity is cut in half (exactly half... that's not an approximation.) E.g. the amount of light illuminating a subject which is 14.1 feet away from the flash will be exactly half as compared to a subject which was only 10' away. The square root of 2 is approximately 1.41. So 10 x 1.41 = 14.1.
This means if you are photographing two subjects... one is 10' away and the other is about 14' away then the more distant subject will only receive half as much light. Suppose we go to a crazy distance... and we have a flash 100' away. NOW the second person has to be 141' away before they get half as much light. This means two subjects within just a few feet of each will not receive "noticeably" different levels of light.
While placing the flash farther from the two subjects will reduce the difference in illumination on your near vs. far subject, built-in flashes cannot handle these larger distances... they don't have enough power. But an external flash brings more power for you to do this.
Canon's speedlite model numbers actually provide an indication of their power level. If you delete the trailing zero from the model number (e.g. in a 430EX II you'd omit the "0" and get "43"... in a 600EX-RT you'd omit one "0" and get "60', etc.) the number you get is the flash "guide number" in meters. The "guide number" is an indicator of how far the flash can adequately illuminate a subject... but the f-stop and ISO settings you use on the camera will change this. So the "guide number" uses a baseline ISO of 100 and a baseline f-stop of f/1. Of course you don't have an f/1 lens but the baseline is used because it makes the math easy. You divide the guide number by the f-stop you are using. e.g. if you are shooting at ISO 100 and f/8 then you'd divide your guide number (suppose you have a Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT.. that's a guide number of 60 meters) and you'd get 60 ÷ 8 = 7.5 meters. Convert meters to feet and that works out to 24.6 (about 25'). Of course that's at ISO 100. Bump up to ISO 200 and you can multiply that distance by 1.41... or bump up to ISO stops to ISO 400 and you can double the distance (about 50'... and that's at f/8).
I should caveat that this assumes you are pointing the flash directly at the subject and there are no light modifiers in use (no soft-diffusers, you aren't "bouncing" the flash off a ceiling or wall, etc.)
Here's a Youtube video that might help you understand the light fall-off problem.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

My new version of Firefox (downloaded automatically) on my Mac displays long paragraphs in emails as a single line, so the end of the paragraph is off the screen. How can I make it automatically wrap to fit the screen?

Long paragraphs in incoming emails display as a single line, with the end of the paragraph running off the screen. I want to make it wrap automatically to fit the screen.

For the browser window, just drag it to the top left of the screen (click and hold on the top bar with the traffic lights to drag), then in the bottom right of the window you'll see a rectangle with diagonal hatching. Click and hold on that and drag the window to the size you want.
Clicking on the green dot at top left will expand the window to fit the screen, clicking it again will shrink it back to where it was (this doesn't work in Finder windows quite the same).
The menu bar size is set in the bowels of the OS, though there may be third-party applications which can alter it.
As it's size is relative to the screen resolution, you could try reducing the resolution in System Preferences > Displays to see if that would suit you better.

Will Apple put a flashor light on the iPod Touch? Pictures are very dim in natural light.

Will Apple put a flash or a light on the iPod Touch? Pictures are very dim in the natural light.

Since we are all only end users here like yourself, nobody here would know such information. However, you can leave feedback to Apple on this through this link.
http://www.apple.com/feedback/ipodtouch.html
B-rock

No sound on my mac book and a red light in the headphone jack

as in the title,
The sound controls dont work and I have a constant red light out of the earphone jack, with the earphones in all is okay but without ....silence

The red light is the digital in light, that is how it reads the headphone jack. The reason the sound doesn't work is because a switch to turn the speakers back on is stuck (note that if you boot the computer, you will hear the startup tone).
There are several ways to fix this...
Some have found that putting the headphone plug in and out several times (maybe twisting it a little) will work.
Others have used a toothpick to adjust the switch (I don't advise this because the toothpick may break).
Instead of a toothpick, many have used a paperclip (probably best to use an insulated one). I couldn't get this to work, but I would suggest straightening, folding in half, then twisting the paperclip and moving it around in the port.
You can also use a sewing pen/needle.
I have seen all of these methods online, but they didn't work for me. I took a que from this instrucable and cleaned my jack with a dry q-tip. I then cut off most of the end and turned it around inside the port. This worked, but after I put the headphones back in the same problem came up, I just did the same procedure again and it worked again (even after I plugged the headphones back in and took them out).
PS: I woud suggest putting some q-tips and possibly some scissors in your MacBook bag in case the problem arises on the move.

A light at the end of a tunnel

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for