ASR1001 CPU Die treshold?

Hello guys,
I am looking for CPU Die treshold for ASR1001 model.
The only thing about the overall nominal working temperature treshold I found is that unlike in ASR1004, 1001 cannot work for a short time during high temperatures.
Regarding the CPU Die I was not able to find anything in Cisco documentation. (only for 7200 router)
thanks a lot!!

The i5 processor has a TCase value of 72.6°Celsius; anything from the Tcase and below will be the expected temperature of the processor in normal use, anything that doesn't stress out the processor like watching movies, burning CDs, browsing the internet, creating documents, etc.
When the processor is stressed out and it is being use at 100%, the temperature will go beyond the Tcase. It can perfectly reach 80 to 90°Celsius and the processor will still be OK. The cooling fan is in charge to keep that temperature there.
If the temperature reaches 100 °Celsius or more, that is consider overheating.
I assume CPU proximity is the CPU heatsink. CPU Die is the same, CPU Die.

Similar Messages

I would like to transfer all data from my iPod classic to my new computer with windows 8.1. My old computer's cpu died. Utilizing iTunes which only allows iTunes albums purchased at iTunes store. The cd's were loaded via iTunes originally.

I would like to transfer all data from my iPod classic to my new computer with windows 8.1. My old computer's cpu died. Utilizing iTunes which only allows iTunes albums purchased at iTunes store. The cd's were loaded via iTunes originally.

Install disk drive from old computer in an external enclosure.
Then copy the complete iTunes library from the disk drive to the disk drive in the new computer.

CPU died. Can I re-download the songs purchased?

I had iTunes when several years ago (before ipods & iphones. When my CPU died I lost all of my info & never got back into iTunes.
I just got an iPod & would like to restore all of the songs I purchased before (they are all still listed in my purchase history). Is there any way to do this?

If you didn't make a back-up of your music/movie purchases to restore from (as you are advised to do) then I'm sorry to say that the policy on lost purchases is that you have to pay to download them again:
"Products may only be downloaded once; after being downloaded, they cannot be replaced if lost for any reason. Once a Product is purchased or rented (as applicable) and you receive the Product, it is your responsibility not to lose, destroy, or damage the Product, and Apple shall be without liability to you in the event of any loss, destruction, or damage" iTunes Store: Purchased content can be downloaded only once
Purchased applications can be downloaded over again, see this article for details: How to redownload purchased applications from the App Store
You could try contacting iTunes Store Customer Service and you might be able to persuade them to sanction a second free download. There have been occasional reports in the iTunes forum of this happening, however just be aware that they are not under any obligation to do so. If you click on this link it'll take you to the support/contact page: Customer Service - iTunes Store Support
You might also want to check out these pages for future reference:
How to back up your media in iTunes
Back up your iTunes library by copying to an external hard drive
Copying iTunes Store purchases from your iPod or iPhone to a computer

CPU Proximity Temperature & CPU Die Digital Temperature

Hello,
Can anybody explain for me the why the CPU Die Digital temperature of MacBook Pro Retina Display Early 2013 is showing a value between 80 and 90 deg Celsius. What's the difference between it and the CPU proximity ?
I'm using iStat Menus 5.03 and I'm seeing that the Digital value is always higher than the proximity with 10 to 15 deg. What's the maximum temp that my macbook can handle ? the below is a list of sensors for normal use:
My Specs are: Core i5
I appreciate your help.

The i5 processor has a TCase value of 72.6°Celsius; anything from the Tcase and below will be the expected temperature of the processor in normal use, anything that doesn't stress out the processor like watching movies, burning CDs, browsing the internet, creating documents, etc.
When the processor is stressed out and it is being use at 100%, the temperature will go beyond the Tcase. It can perfectly reach 80 to 90°Celsius and the processor will still be OK. The cooling fan is in charge to keep that temperature there.
If the temperature reaches 100 °Celsius or more, that is consider overheating.
I assume CPU proximity is the CPU heatsink. CPU Die is the same, CPU Die.

Cleaning CPU DIE

I bought some Akasa TIM cleaner to clean my CPU die prior to installing my Arctic cooler copper silent 2TC .
However after fitting it doesn't seem to be much better than the stock HSF i had (although quieter).
other people have said I shouldn't use the TIM cleaner as it's not very good , leaves a film on the DIE and also corrodes copper ??
Is this true , what else should I use ??

Quote
Originally posted by SillySider03
Use regular rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth(or a coffee filter if one is unavailable)...
Where the heck do I get rubbing alcohol from ?
Don't have coffee filter, so what else would be lint free ?

Delid CPU die guard

Hi.
I have recently been reading about the release of the Z97 XPower AC motherboard, and that it will be supplied with a CPU die guard for those who have removed the Integrated Heat Spreader from their processor.
While the specifications suggest that this will be a very good board, it's too large for my system, and I am currently happy enough with my Z87 board anyway. However, I would be interested in running my 4770K processor without the IHS, and wondered if the CPU die was likely to be offered as a stand alone accessory to be purchased by those with earlier/different motherboards?
Many thanks
SteveW

Quote
wondered if the CPU die was likely to be offered as a stand alone accessory to be purchased by those with earlier/different motherboards?
No, it is a Z97 XPower only feature.

My CPU reached 65 degree!!!

Hi all,
I am using KT6 Delta-SR motherboard with AMD 2800+. The temp reading for CPU showed 63-65 degree when using the Core Centre. The fan come with the CPU. The speed of the fan is around 4200rpm.
Is this temperature normal? And i did not O/C my CPU. What should i do now?
Thanks.

Did you remove the tape on the thermal compound on the bottom of the heatsink?
A good thing to do for the gooey thermal compound that is pre applied by the manufacter is to unplug the fan for a little amount of time like 10-15 seconds that way it will heat up and melt and fill any of the microscopic valleys in the heatsink and the cpu die.
I would scrape the gooey junk off with a razor blade clean up the heatsink with some isoproply alcohol then apply a thin amount of thermal paste to the cpu. Thermal goo doesn't hold a candle to a good quality thermal paste stay away from the the cheap knock off silver pastes.
Read the trouble guide it will show you the correct way a heatsink should be mounted which is the step in the heatsink should be mounted so that it is over the cam box of the cpu socket(the part of the socket that says Socket 462) if it isn't the right way you won't have barely any contact to the cpu or you'll have no contact at all.
Airflow inside your case is also a big factor in cpu temps if the fan on the heatsink is sucking and blowing hot or warm air onto it then you'll always have high cpu temps you matter what money spend on a new heatsink. Make sure you have a intake fan providing fresh air into the case, and a exhaust fan to pull away the heated air.

Macbook Pro Retina CPU Overheating when doing simple tasks?

I've had my Macbook Pro w/ Retina since July 2012 and for about a month now (starting in November) the CPU Die - Digital has been getting EXTREMELY overheated. It has gotten up to 210 degrees F which is way past the damaging level of CPU but the real kicker is that it happens when I have a few tabs open in safari and a couple other minor programs open (Mail, Finder, App Store, Skype, iTunes). It's not like I'm running Skyrim, LoL, and Starcraft while running background tasks in Fincal Cut X and Motion V?? I mean I have 16GB of ram and only 5 or 6 of it is in use so it's not a problem with multitasking and processing power also shouldn't pose much of a threat for a few tabs in a browser and some low usage programs. I use iStat Menu's and I took a screenshot just now of it in the 180's when it was recently in the 190's. I also checked the disk utility and I can't see anything in the CPU usage that would make it work that hard.
My questions are am I doing something wrong? Is there something I'm missing? Is my laptop defective and in need of refurbishing using Apple Care? Is this happening to anyone else?
Thank you in advance.

Turn off Skype and see if that has any affect. Skype is is a notorious heat generator.
Did you check Activity Monitor?
Ciao.

Switched CPU now MOBO doesn't Boot

I have an MSI 6378 Ver 3 Mobo. Up until this afternoon it worked great. It was running an XP1800+ CPU. I had someone at work who upgraded and gave me their XP2000+ cpu, so I figured, what the hell. I installed it, but the system would suddenly power down when it started to boot into windows. I would then have to remove all power from the system (disconnect the cord) before I could power it up. So I figured I got a bum CPU and put the old one in. With the old CPU the monitor won't come on, so I don't even know if it is getting to post or not. It sounds like things are spinning up, but I don't have any display. I have a seperate PCI video card, and I get a display with the bad CPU. Can anyone give me some suggestions what I did to my board? I really don't want to purchase a new board/CPU/memory combo if I can avoid it.
Thanks,
Lee

Hello,
You know that you only need a thin layer on the CPU DIE (thinner than paper).
And a small layer on the heatsink.
What heatsink are you using?
Why the XP1800+ wont post?
When you put the XP2000+ in the board runs the CPU at 1.667Ghz.
If you swap CPU's the board may try to run the XP1800+ at 1.667Ghz instead of 1.5Ghz and with the locked CPU's it will cause the PC not to POST.
So you should clear the cmos everytime you change CPU's.
What other components are you using and power supply?
Are you running the CPU at the correct speeds?

Cleaning a CPU

What can I use to clean a CPU die and heatsink that I can buy in a store? (to remove old thermal paste remnants)
Thx
My new Barton 2800+ is running at over 70C when gaming with the retail AMD HSF.. So I wanna replace their stuff with AS5 and see if that helps any..

Isopropyl Wipes (the kind you get for when your polishing hot melt fibre optic connections/terminations. don't have any in my desk draw right now, so can't say what % they are or who makes them)
All i will say, is don't bother with these tubs you see in places like maplin/pcworld, they are nowhere near as effective as fibre optic cleaning wipes I use, or the methods with q-tips mentioned already. You go throu about 5 wipes trying to clean off AS5, and then it needs polishing up.
Extremely good, then you can either polish off with some kitchen tissue (something soft that won't disintegrate) although this isn't always neccesary as the alho evaporates and leaves it clean, with all the residue on the wipe

How to get new E8400 CPU to work with P965 Neo-F V2?

My old Core 2 Duo E6850 CPU died recently, but Intel doesn't manufacture that model any longer it seems and noone has it available. From the mainboard CPU compatibility list I could see that the equivalent E8400 model would work with my P965 Neo-F V2 as well, and the guy who sold it to me said it would. However, if I understand the compatibility list correctly, the E8400 CPU needs the newest 3.8 BIOS. I've never flashed the BIOS, so it's whatever version it came with (2.1 I think).
Is there any way to get this BIOS on the mainboard without my old CPU? I got a used (but working) E8400 CPU to try with, but it gets stuck at the first boot screen. I can't access the BIOS settings or get a keyboard to work.
Is there anything I can do with my current CPU and mainboard, or do I have to find a CPU that runs on the mainboard, flash the BIOS and then use the new CPU? Am I completely screwed?
Thank you.

do I have to find a CPU that runs on the mainboard, flash the BIOS and then use the new CPU?
Yes. Original BIOS would have been 3.0
Edit: This is best way to flash BIOS >> USB BIOS flash << Don't use 'Live Update'

Help .. My Bios reads th Temp of my CPU at 72 c

I am very new here , I have Neo Platinum mainboard and AMD 64 3000+ Processor , When I entered the Bios , I looked in the Health option , the Temperatur of the Processor was 72 c , is that true ? Why that high Temp ? It i really burning when this is true ...
And what is Cool 'n Quiet ? Is that a Client or what ? and for what can I use that ? because I saw many people here were talking about it ..
Please excuse me people I am very new with all this things ...
Thanks for any help !

I have the same problem, it's my first build so I'm worried I have actually messed up the CPU and heatsink or something and the temps are real.
I had the PC looked at in a local computer shop and they said it was fine. I even took off the retail heatsink and re-applied some thermal compound.
When I did this I used a template intended for a socket 423 heatsink but it was roughly the same size as my CPU die (about 1mm smaller on each side) and I made sure it was right in the middle of the heat sink base. The layer was also extremely thin, any thinner and it would be non-existant. Is this all correct?
My temperatures as shown by Motherboard Monitor 5 are Case 45C, CPU 57C. The temperature probe in my case wouldn't fit under the processor so I wedged it between the heatsink and the socket ridge as low as it would go. From here the probe reads 32C, does that give any indication of whether my temperatures are actually bogus?
Also, BIOS gives me a temp of around 64C.

2012 MBP 15" non retina MAJOR CPU temps!!!

Hey guys. First time Mac user. Actually its my wifes. Bought it for her for christmas.
First thing I did on christmas day was start benchmarking. Installed Vmware and Parallels, started expierement with virtualiztion etc.
System specs
15" MBP non retina
Highres glossy display
i7-3720 @ 2.6ghz
8gb ram
750gb HD
Nvidia 650GT 1024mb Graphics
Im playing around I notice the system get VERY hot. When I say very, I mean hitting 100+ degrees C. Easily surpassing my watercooled desktop machine.
Idle sitting in OSX with nothing running 51-55 degrees, Idling in Parallels 8 (win7 x64) the CPU Die is at 58-60 degrees. Stress testing brings the CPU to 100+ degress easily with fans running at 5000+ rpm.
Even Idling in a game the CPU hits 102 celcius with the GPU running over 90.
Is this normal. If I put this on my lap, my legs are toast.
Have screen shots if needed.

I AM SO HAPPY. I figured out how to fix this!!!!
1. get Temperature Monitor by Bresink
2. get smcFanControl - google it
3. Install them and get smcfancontrol to display the RPM up by your name (top bar)
4. Check your temps with Temp Monitor, mine were about 95 (203 f) celcius when playing Minecraft
5. Click the temperature and RPM sign the smc put on your top bar
6. change Active Setting form DEFAULT to HIGHER RPM
It makes your RPM go to about ~4000, which you still can't hear, but it brought my temps from an average of 95 celcius (203 f) when playing a game to about 57 (135 f). I am not kidding. It is amazing.
Make sure to turn the Active Setting back to DEFAULT after playing your game.
Do this every time you play, it might work the fans harder, but that is better than turning your computer into a heater.

Lenovo G560 overheating. Need tips on fan speed control

When I am watching movies on my G560 laptop, the area to the left of my touchpad is getting very hot and the laptop is shutting down at times.
When I bought my laptop I used to hear fan noise, but I have noticed recently that I do not hear the fan any more. I was wondering of there was a way to check the fan speed and manually alter it.
The warranty on my G560 is running out with in a month or so, a quick response would be appreciated.

the cpu greece tests over the years are the most bunch of snake oil i ever seen.
one review site did a test with 50 and used choclate and fingernail polish to show most are complete waste of money.
compaq builds junk.
lenovo dose not.
the real reason is the notebook makers dont even built the latops.
there like 3 companys that make 90% of the worlds notebooks and pc.
you never even heard of them either.
they make the sonys,acers and so on in a plant on a line with dozens of brands.
just like the way foxconn makes the apples these are huge companys that make the products per instruction of the notebook brand.
notebooks are not like desktops one bit because they are in a tiny space where heat puts a curse in the board.
when you release this you release that spot.
the part of contact for a cpu die is really tiny so it dont have to make the same contact point as cpu cooler.
cpu coolers of notebook are well designed unlike the desktop cooler they make very good contact.
discrete graphics is another story most of all on compaqs with they used a very bad design and had majior issues with.
trust me there no such issues with lenovos because they use a good company to make there notebooks and they also use a good design.
the fan noise issue well that was more of a watch out for sandy bridge issue as sandy bridge can be a very hot chip.
undervolting the chip makes a huge difference in heat as it comes with no performance loss.
it also dont change the way the cpu sits.
when the cpu was mated to the motherboard it perfict that day.
when you pull the cpu now it never fit the same exact way as it has been stressed over time by the tourqe and the heat.
pulling it will effect the fit.
most people dont have the skill to change the greece on a cpu because they will use to much and unlike a desktop cpu that has no open transistors on the surface the mobile cpu dose.
they will add too much and it will run and short out them.
look at a pic of a mobile cpu and then a desktop cpu.
a very different design.
what you telling people is a skill they dont have because they have no idea that a simple mistake will cost them hundreads of dollers.
notebook cpu run 200-300 dollers and some 500 bucks.
pulling the cpu heatsink will effect it natural fit because it under tenion.
i know this because i know metals well and i have 20 years of experence in this area.
i alos worked for a company long ago that made robots for the waffer cpu come from.
i think some people think they might know a quik fix because they built a pc before but notebooks are very different.
i do custom notebook setups for people up here in boston who are willing to spend more on my labour then most notebooks cost.
when i set up a pc it takes me 4-6 hours normally thats a standard win 7 time with all security and services adjusted complete.
people pay for my services because they get longer run times and they stomp anything even notebook makers that charge thousands for custom setups.
if i thought putting snake oil on a cpu would lower temps i would do it just for the lower fan noise and power use it would save.
i know the moment i release the heatsink i never recreate the same exact fit it had under the stress that time made and the point of contact metal to metal will allways be better then if you add silicon to it.
most people dont get that more then a pin head will be more then enough because more then that will cause a heat barrier and lower that.
there whole point to thermal paste is to fill graps in the metal that are from the lapping process.
it not to help cool it like some think.
no thermal paste will ever work better then a pure magnetic grip of metal to metal.
infact if you machine two blocks perfict they stick to each other as if they were magnets.
tourqe them and add heat and they never do that again.
that why latops heatsinks i feel are much more different them desktops one and what most people dont grasp.
dont belive me call your high school science teacher and he explaine why to you.

[nForce]: Trouble Shooting Guide V1.6a

Hello.
Here is a guide to help solve some problems with K7N2 motherboards.
Problems arise in systems because some components do not work as they should.
Typical issues found with these boards consist of Non-nForce2 Approved RAM & a weak power supply. Other issues could be a cpu won't run at its rated fsb speed or an incorrectly mounted cpu cooler.
Sound problems - too many or incorrectly placed metal standoffs, bad drivers.
Windows won't install or you get a file read error - Incorrectly mounted CPU heat sink, RAM or power supply (PSU).
I've listed some instructions below to help those users that need a basic comprehensive guide to troubleshoot their systems with. Please read through the entire guide prior to posting for help on the forum.
Before you start doing anything, remove the power cord and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. This is called "Grounding yourself" and if you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
1) BIOS/Startup POST reports wrong cpu or frequency
Check if jumper j10 and j11 are set to safemode and also check fsb settings in bios. If the jumpers are set to safe mode set them to normal, this is found in your motherboard manual. The jumpers vary with motherboards and manufacturers.
SafeMode sets cpu and memory to 100mhz.
Both memory and cpu are double pumped.
Data is clocked on the rise and fall of each clock cycle.
That means that 100mhz real frequency is 200mhz virtual frequency.
This is NOT without error and so your results may vary a little.
Non-Delta supports all cpu up to fsb 333
Delta supports all Socket A cpu
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Support for new Duron 1400, 1600, 1800 with 266Mhz FSB (applebred)
The following boards support them:
(If a board is not on the list then it's not supported!)
-K7N2 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-L 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-ILSR 6570 V1.0
-K7N2 Delta 6570 V1.0
-K7N2GM-L 6777 V1.0
Thanks to DeathStalker
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
How to check which cpu you have:
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/DownloadableAssets/Electrical_Specification_Rev04_ENG.pdf
2) Over temp CPU
Is the Heat Sink and Fan rated for the CPU?
The CPU Heat Sink could be mounted wrong! Carefully remove it and check it. It can and will fit 2 ways but ther is only 1 right way. Examine the installation very carefully!
The Heat Sink has a recessed edge that has to be installed over the ridge (higher part or bump) of the socket. If installed backwards then it won't cool the entire area of the processor 'die' and could cause it to burn, thus killing it, or give you trouble as outlined in this guide.
Make sure that you use a QUALITY Thermal Compound/Paste and DO NOT reuse old compound! Note that some Heat Sinks are shipped with Thermal Pads, these are ok for some but will not give you the best heat transfer that a quality paste will.
Below are three images, the first two are incorrect, the last is correct.
Again..It is important to match the notch or step in the heatsink to the socket or it will not seat properly, causing immediate shutdowns, and ultimately damage your CPU.
If you use too much Silver based Thermal Compund you risk shorting the bridges on the CPU. This could cause damage to the CPU itself so use sparingly! If you feel that you've used too much then clean the die and substrate (the brown or green fiberglass material that the die is mounted on) and re-apply. Orange Clean TM is excellent for cleaning any type of thermal compound from a processor. Isopropyl Alchohol is ok but may leave traces of silver on the substrate. Using a 10X eye loupe will ensure that no traces of silver are shorting any bridges together after cleaning. DO NOT clean your processor while it rests in its socket on the motherboard. You run the risk of cleaner mixed with compound and dirt settling into your socket and that will cause further problems.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may dissolve some parts. Especially the coating on capacitors and resistors.
Silverbased compounds are not recommended by most manufacturers and if any traces are detected by them from an RMA'd processor they will usually void the warranty!
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2000 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because their die are smaller and generate far more heat per square centimeter than the "old" CPU's did.
a)How to check the Heat Sink before taking it off:
There is a simple way to check the Heat Sink without taking it off. You do this by first checking your idle temp with SpeedFan or MBM, it should be below 50-55C.
Download Prime95 and run torture test for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a chance that you've mounted the heat sink incorrectly.
If your system can't run this check, (i.e. freezes or crashes) try setting your FSB to 100. Try to run the test again. If it still fails to run it could well be that the heat sink is mounted wrong or your power supply doesn't have enough power.
You cant check if the heatsink only has partial contact with the CPU die by looking on temperature monitor programs. The heatsink needs to be removed to see that.
If, after reading the guide regarding CPU Heat Sinks, you don't understand what we are talking about, then refer this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/23986.pdf
3) Power Supplies
Most common cheap 300-350W power supply units (PSU for short) can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your PSU has 200W combined on the +3.3v & +5V rails and that the +3.3V rail is rated for 20A (A = Amps or Amperage) or above. This should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the +12V rail has become very important too, expecially with AMD ThunderBird & above CPU's. Make sure your PSU can supply 16A or more.
Alway's make sure you have a decent PSU, it never fails to spend a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure.
Here's a good post on choosing the right power supply:
Choosing The Right Power Supply
This is the bare minimum that you should see on a PSU running an AMD processor. Intel is a bit more forgiving in some cases but with the amount of devices we use these days this minimum is a good guidline:
+3.3V - 28A or better
+5V - 35A or better
+12V - 16A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!! Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!! Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
4) Metal Stand-offs
Sometimes we are all a bit careless when it comes to changing a motherboard and forget to look at the layout of the stand-offs (those little silver or brass pieces that the screws screw into to hold the motherboard in the case) that are left from the old motherboard. Some motherboards use more than others thus some overlook the 'extra' one and mount that new board and never know the difference. Until they try to start their new baby up!
Remove the board and check for to see if you have too many of them by counting the holes or screws that you took out and then count the number of stand-offs you have in the case. Remove any uneeded stand-offs then remount your motherboard. Having 'extra's' can short out circuitry and cause all sorts of problems most of which are audio related.
Here are what typical stand-offs look like:
5) Sound
Two types of audio chipsets are used in these boards:
a) The -ILSR version uses Soundstorm and has drivers supplied from MSI or nVidia.
b) The -L version uses RealTek sound and has drivers supplied by MSI and Realtek.
There have been a lot of issues regarding the -L board and its drivers supplied by MSI. Realtek drivers seem to repair these issues and can be found here:
www.realtek.com.tw
Follow the ALC650 link.
6) RAM
Most of the issues involving these boards have been memory related. For various reasons cheaper generic memory doesn't run with nForce2 chipsets well and you should get nForce2 Approved RAM. Here is a link to nVidia's compatibility list as well as a list of what has worked for some:
Good Memory Choices for ALL K7N2 nF2 released boards
It's not a good idea to try to run DDR266 RAM when you have a 333FSB CPU, get DDR333 ram of decent quality.
If you think that you're having RAM issues then replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it or borrow some from a friend to check. Make sure it isn't cheap quality RAM or what you borrow isn't cheap quality. You can run to the local CompUSA (if you live in the USA that is) and buy some better quality RAM and return it later if you find that it isn't the problem.
DDR ram speeds:
Duron up to 1300/Athlon-B = 100FSB = PC-1600 = DDR200
Duron from 1400 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon-C/XP up to 2600 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above = 166FSB = PC-2700 = DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above = 200FSB = PC-3200 = DDR400
Set Fsb / Dram Ratio to 1:1 that means that the memory is working at the same speed as the fsb does.
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock. You can use faster RAM on a slower system and the motherboard bus will switch down in speed accordingly. The speeds given above are what should be used as a minimum, otherwise you're creating a serious bottleneck of data from the RAM.
Use a decent RAM testing utility such as Memtest86 if you suspect RAM is faulty. Typical failures of RAM include but are not limited to:
a) BSOD (Blue Screen of Death!)
b) Data Corruption
c) Machine won't cold boot
Try your system always with 1 RAM module at a time to see if you have a bad module. Swap modules if you have more than 1 to see if one or the other is bad. When upgrading remeber that adding more modules can give you trouble too. Especially if you mix manufacturers. Some sticks just won't work in pairs and some fail when you put 3 or more in the system. When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the nVidia tested and approved modules, they are your best chance that they will work without problems.
If still nothing try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or raise the RAM voltage a little but be careful doing this! Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in the system.
7) BIOS
Sometimes when we play with our BIOS settings and set something wrong in it or set something incompatible with our hardware this causes the motherboard to not boot up. Sometimes they come from the factory that way as well. If so then clear the CMOS and start with the default settings. If it works try setting ONLY A FEW SETTINGS at a time and nothing more! If it works then go further from there a couple of settings at a time.
There are issues when changing VCORE and it gets stuck.
There are 3 ways to work around this issue.
1. Updating to the latest bios seems to fix it most of the time.
2. Clear CMOS, change VCORE in the BIOS, save changes then reboot and it should be changed.
3. Change VCORE in BIOS, save changes, turn off pc then disconnect PSU from wall outlet by either disconnecting the power cord or use the switch on the backside of the psu if there is one. Reconnect the power cord or turn the switch on again. Boot up the system, go into the BIOS and check under pc health to see if it has changed.
For RAID boards only!!
If you recieve a message at boot saying:
No Hard disk/drive present...BIOS will not be installed...
or something comparable, it means that there are no drives connected to the raid controllers and it's not installing the drivers needed to support the function of that particular device FROM BIOS ONLY! This is nothing to worry about and all of the other functions of your machine should work properly.
Modded bios to fix problems when using multiplier 10 and 10.5 and also to be able to use a higher FSB than with the MSI bios.
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46052
8) Clearing the CMOS chip
Disconnect the system power cord and push the case power button to drain all remaining power in the psu for approximately 15 seconds
Then move jumper jbat1 and wait 10 seconds and move it back to the original position. You should ensure that the jumper has metal inside of it when removed, sometimes (rarely) they don't. This process resets or clears the CMOS chip and is shown in most motherboard manuals.Now connect the power cord and restart your system.
Some motherboards require that the battery must be removed for 20 minutes before putting the battery and jbat1 back for the CMOS chip to be cleared.
***Starting your K7N2 Delta2 at default settings***
By "labtech1"
As some of you will be aware there is no safe mode jumper J10 on the K7N2 Delta2 series of boards. This has been replaced by the "insert" key method as used by Abit and Epox. To start your board at its default settings following an unsuccessful overclocking attempt you need to do the following using a ps2 keyboard. Turn off your machine and disconnect from the mains or turn off the switch on the back of the power supply. Press the front panel power switch several times to discharge any charge remaining in the power supply capacitors. Reconnect the power by plugging into wall socket or turning on psu power switch. Press and hold down "insert" on the keyboard and press the case front panel power switch. If you are successful it should start the cpu and memory at 100Mhz FSB. If it does press "delete" to reenter the bios to change your settings to known safe settings. Good luck.
9) Harddisks
If your hard drive is giving you problems:
Western Digital (WD) drive's are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone drive with no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = Use this setting on your main drive if you have a slave drive installed in your system.
Jumper slave = Use this setting if you have a second hard drive installed in your system.
Cable Select - the preferred jumper setting
If your Hard Drive is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the color-coded connectors to the color-coded connectors on the motherboard and connect the other END of the cable to the hard drive. The middle connector can be left unattached without problems if not needed.
Not all motherboards have color-coded connectors.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Run drive fitness test (DFT)
Maxtor also has its own version of hard drive check for their drives and is available from their website.
Any brand of hard drive can have problems so check the manufacturer website to see if there is a testing utility to use to make sure they are ok. Hard drive failures can cause some of the strangest problems with computers and should be checked via the Event Viewer of your Operating System or using the mfg's utility. Sometimes the Event Viewer will give you clues that you have bad sectors leading you to a potential hard drive failure. You could also find IDE/SCSI controllers that are suspect by looking there as well. Win9x and ME DO NOT have Event Viewers.
Alway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape! If you suspect that it's not, replace it to verify.
IDE devices and hard drive guide (Written by Assaf & Bas)
IDE devices and hard drive guide(Written by Assaf & Bas)
To enable a hard drive over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The K7N2G & Delta -ILSR boards support 2 IDE Devices on IDE 1 & 2, 1 IDE hard drive on IDE3 and 2 SATA drive's on the SATA Ports.
There is a modded bios that allows 2 drives on IDE3. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Here is a link to it:
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626&highlight=
Harddisk/power LED not functioning:
If your Hard Drive or Power LED doesn't work try turning the plug around on the motherboard connector. Some manufacturers don't mark or wire the LED cables properly and the LEDs will only work when + and - is correct.
Hard drive LEDs do not work with SATA drives but O&O Drive LED opens a little window and there you can see when a harddrive or cd is accessed. Works on both ide and sata drives.
10) Floppy Drives
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the LED stays on all of the time make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS because the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable making sure that the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side and flip the connector at the around. If it stays on after that or you still can't read a floppy disk try another drive or a different manufaturer type drive.
11) USB Ports
USB 2.0 ports are supported ONLY in Win2000 w/SP3 and XP w/SP1. Update your OS from Windows Update and let the OS install the ports after reboot and they should work.
If your USB ports aren't working:
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled. If you're using the front USB ports of your case check to see if all of the wires are connected properly.
There are 4 wires for each USB channel.
In some manufaturer's cases they are supplied with a wire called USBOC. Don't connect this as it can cause problems.
Also different mfg's mark the wires with different names so the basic nomenclature would be something like this:
+5v = +VCC
-D = -USB
+D = +USB
Note: Normally the cables are marked as +USB1 or -USB1, +USB2 or -USB2 and so on...please ensure that all of the 1's are together and all of the 2's are together.
12) Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case. But if you do so please support the board because if you don't you might bend the board a little and cause trace breakage or component connections to the board to crack or break causing a bad contact. Always support the board when you replace components no matter what!
Also make sure your system is compatible with any replacement component. For example your PSU may not be able to handle a video card upgrade from a GeForce2 440MX to a GeForce4 Ti-4600 because the +12v rail is too low or the motherboard isn't rated to output the proper voltage to the AGP port.
If you have parts that work in another computer with a different chipset this DOES NOT mean they will work with the nforce2 chipset.
13) Graphics Card
If there is stability problem and/or can't use agp 8x then update to the latest bios and it should work. Also try to disable the 8x feature of the motherboard in the BIOS. If neither of these work then you may have a PSU that is under-powered and needs to be replaced. You could also have a faulty video card, AGP port on the motherboard among other things. If you have to disable the 8x feature in the BIOS then there is still a problem even if the card starts working. That may mean the motherboard is bad. Also use the latest drivers available from the respective manufacturer and don't forget to uninstall the old drivers first!! There is a sticky post in the VGA forum that details this process.
14) Checking the power supply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
a) Disconnect the power supply.
b) Orient the 20-pin power connector with the clip up.
c) Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire. (Usually the PSU manufacturer will have a drawing labeling the pins on their website)
d) Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
e) Now connect the power cord and the fan inside the power supply should start spinning. If it doesn't your power supply might be dead.
15) Windows
a) If you find that Windows2000/XP won't run stable:
Try to disable APIC and install again. Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
b) Windows2000/XP won't install USB 2.0:
Install the latest service pack using Windows Update (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP). Windows should detect the USB ports on reboot and install the drivers for them. They should work now but if not you could have a faulty motherboard.
If you use a current or slipstreamed copy of Win2K or XP with the latest service pack they include these new drivers. This download will no longer be available on Windows Update.
USE THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Slipstreaming Win2K with Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD:
http://old.bink.nu/bootcd/
Slipstreaming Windows XP Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD
http://www.windows-help.net/WindowsXP/winxp-sp1-bootcd.html
16) Raid
Configure a raid array:
After you have connected 1 or 2 hard drives to your Raid IDE port(s) press CTRL + F during boot and create a raid array.
It is possible to have 2 raid arrays working at the same time.
To boot from a raid array set SCSI as the first boot device.
To install windows on a raid array you have to press F6 to load raid drivers during the initial install of windows. This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives. A default driver is loaded at bootup so that the drives can be accessed until the real drivers are loaded from the MB disk.
Raid 0 sets up striping which gives more performance for applications. Raid 1 sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a raid array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
nForce 2 raid FAQ
(Mostly by Wonkanoby)
The third IDE only works with harddrives not optical drives such as CD,DVD. It only supports one drive.
You must create an array first, weather you are using 2 drives or just one
or nothing will happen .
You must also have a 3.5 floppy with the appropriate drivers handy.
INSTALLATION
To install raid as a boot drive.
Control + F and make the array.
Set SCSI second to cdrom in boot order.
Boot to xp cd and hit F6 as it prompts you to do right at the beginning and then insert the floppy.
This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives.
The rest of the format/install is all as normal.
Drivers for the raid can be found here.
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/sata48N.exe
Promise PDC20376 Serial-ATA RAID Utility
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/37653.exe
If you make a new floppy, unrar them.
Then copy every thing including the text files to the floppy.
(no text files, nothing happens)
MODDED BIOS
such as
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626
There are several offering full RAID.
They add ability to have 2x drives on ide 3.
I'm skeptical running raid 0 with both on the same ide myself.
Now these you must get the bios and the drivers.
The drivers are not the same as those for the RAID MSI includes.
The drivers are linked on that BIOS page I have provided.
RAID 0, sets up striping, which gives more performance for applications.
RAID 1, sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a RAID array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
17) Good Links
J*A*G'S *Updated* nForce Cooling Guide (written by JAG)
Suggestions on posting and getting better answers (written by GlennVidia)
Good Memory Choices for K7N2G- IL and ILSR Board (written by Bonz)
ati problem ,post vga card model and bios (written by Wonkanoby)
Powersupplies(Written by Bas)
Moan Guide (Written by Wonkanoby)
A few good websites to have around!!
The Freeware Thread
NFORCE 2 OVERCLOCKING AND MODDING GUIDES
Use these guides, including the content of this entire guide, at your own risk!
This forum and it's members, including MSI, assume no liability whatsoever!
Part One
Part Two
I am not an expert on computers so I have most likely forgotten a lot of things. Please send me a private message or email me and I will add it if it's applicable. If you feel that something here is in error then please contact me via the above as well.
I also want to thank everyone that helped put this guide together.
All Star Lineup!
Arioch
DeathStalker
maesus
ClarkKent57
boost
Assaf
Bas
Tweetyoost
Stygge
HansH
GlennVidia
RoganJosh
Bonz
Wonkanoby
Dragon60
[T-A]_Super_10
labtech1

Hello.
Here is a guide to help solve some problems with K7N2 motherboards.
Problems arise in systems because some components do not work as they should.
Typical issues found with these boards consist of Non-nForce2 Approved RAM & a weak power supply. Other issues could be a cpu won't run at its rated fsb speed or an incorrectly mounted cpu cooler.
Sound problems - too many or incorrectly placed metal standoffs, bad drivers.
Windows won't install or you get a file read error - Incorrectly mounted CPU heat sink, RAM or power supply (PSU).
I've listed some instructions below to help those users that need a basic comprehensive guide to troubleshoot their systems with. Please read through the entire guide prior to posting for help on the forum.
Before you start doing anything, remove the power cord and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. This is called "Grounding yourself" and if you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
1) BIOS/Startup POST reports wrong cpu or frequency
Check if jumper j10 and j11 are set to safemode and also check fsb settings in bios. If the jumpers are set to safe mode set them to normal, this is found in your motherboard manual. The jumpers vary with motherboards and manufacturers.
SafeMode sets cpu and memory to 100mhz.
Both memory and cpu are double pumped.
Data is clocked on the rise and fall of each clock cycle.
That means that 100mhz real frequency is 200mhz virtual frequency.
This is NOT without error and so your results may vary a little.
Non-Delta supports all cpu up to fsb 333
Delta supports all Socket A cpu
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Support for new Duron 1400, 1600, 1800 with 266Mhz FSB (applebred)
The following boards support them:
(If a board is not on the list then it's not supported!)
-K7N2 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-L 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-ILSR 6570 V1.0
-K7N2 Delta 6570 V1.0
-K7N2GM-L 6777 V1.0
Thanks to DeathStalker
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
How to check which cpu you have:
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/DownloadableAssets/Electrical_Specification_Rev04_ENG.pdf
2) Over temp CPU
Is the Heat Sink and Fan rated for the CPU?
The CPU Heat Sink could be mounted wrong! Carefully remove it and check it. It can and will fit 2 ways but ther is only 1 right way. Examine the installation very carefully!
The Heat Sink has a recessed edge that has to be installed over the ridge (higher part or bump) of the socket. If installed backwards then it won't cool the entire area of the processor 'die' and could cause it to burn, thus killing it, or give you trouble as outlined in this guide.
Make sure that you use a QUALITY Thermal Compound/Paste and DO NOT reuse old compound! Note that some Heat Sinks are shipped with Thermal Pads, these are ok for some but will not give you the best heat transfer that a quality paste will.
Below are three images, the first two are incorrect, the last is correct.
Again..It is important to match the notch or step in the heatsink to the socket or it will not seat properly, causing immediate shutdowns, and ultimately damage your CPU.
If you use too much Silver based Thermal Compund you risk shorting the bridges on the CPU. This could cause damage to the CPU itself so use sparingly! If you feel that you've used too much then clean the die and substrate (the brown or green fiberglass material that the die is mounted on) and re-apply. Orange Clean TM is excellent for cleaning any type of thermal compound from a processor. Isopropyl Alchohol is ok but may leave traces of silver on the substrate. Using a 10X eye loupe will ensure that no traces of silver are shorting any bridges together after cleaning. DO NOT clean your processor while it rests in its socket on the motherboard. You run the risk of cleaner mixed with compound and dirt settling into your socket and that will cause further problems.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may dissolve some parts. Especially the coating on capacitors and resistors.
Silverbased compounds are not recommended by most manufacturers and if any traces are detected by them from an RMA'd processor they will usually void the warranty!
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2000 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because their die are smaller and generate far more heat per square centimeter than the "old" CPU's did.
a)How to check the Heat Sink before taking it off:
There is a simple way to check the Heat Sink without taking it off. You do this by first checking your idle temp with SpeedFan or MBM, it should be below 50-55C.
Download Prime95 and run torture test for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a chance that you've mounted the heat sink incorrectly.
If your system can't run this check, (i.e. freezes or crashes) try setting your FSB to 100. Try to run the test again. If it still fails to run it could well be that the heat sink is mounted wrong or your power supply doesn't have enough power.
You cant check if the heatsink only has partial contact with the CPU die by looking on temperature monitor programs. The heatsink needs to be removed to see that.
If, after reading the guide regarding CPU Heat Sinks, you don't understand what we are talking about, then refer this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/23986.pdf
3) Power Supplies
Most common cheap 300-350W power supply units (PSU for short) can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your PSU has 200W combined on the +3.3v & +5V rails and that the +3.3V rail is rated for 20A (A = Amps or Amperage) or above. This should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the +12V rail has become very important too, expecially with AMD ThunderBird & above CPU's. Make sure your PSU can supply 16A or more.
Alway's make sure you have a decent PSU, it never fails to spend a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure.
Here's a good post on choosing the right power supply:
Choosing The Right Power Supply
This is the bare minimum that you should see on a PSU running an AMD processor. Intel is a bit more forgiving in some cases but with the amount of devices we use these days this minimum is a good guidline:
+3.3V - 28A or better
+5V - 35A or better
+12V - 16A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!! Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!! Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
4) Metal Stand-offs
Sometimes we are all a bit careless when it comes to changing a motherboard and forget to look at the layout of the stand-offs (those little silver or brass pieces that the screws screw into to hold the motherboard in the case) that are left from the old motherboard. Some motherboards use more than others thus some overlook the 'extra' one and mount that new board and never know the difference. Until they try to start their new baby up!
Remove the board and check for to see if you have too many of them by counting the holes or screws that you took out and then count the number of stand-offs you have in the case. Remove any uneeded stand-offs then remount your motherboard. Having 'extra's' can short out circuitry and cause all sorts of problems most of which are audio related.
Here are what typical stand-offs look like:
5) Sound
Two types of audio chipsets are used in these boards:
a) The -ILSR version uses Soundstorm and has drivers supplied from MSI or nVidia.
b) The -L version uses RealTek sound and has drivers supplied by MSI and Realtek.
There have been a lot of issues regarding the -L board and its drivers supplied by MSI. Realtek drivers seem to repair these issues and can be found here:
www.realtek.com.tw
Follow the ALC650 link.
6) RAM
Most of the issues involving these boards have been memory related. For various reasons cheaper generic memory doesn't run with nForce2 chipsets well and you should get nForce2 Approved RAM. Here is a link to nVidia's compatibility list as well as a list of what has worked for some:
Good Memory Choices for ALL K7N2 nF2 released boards
It's not a good idea to try to run DDR266 RAM when you have a 333FSB CPU, get DDR333 ram of decent quality.
If you think that you're having RAM issues then replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it or borrow some from a friend to check. Make sure it isn't cheap quality RAM or what you borrow isn't cheap quality. You can run to the local CompUSA (if you live in the USA that is) and buy some better quality RAM and return it later if you find that it isn't the problem.
DDR ram speeds:
Duron up to 1300/Athlon-B = 100FSB = PC-1600 = DDR200
Duron from 1400 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon-C/XP up to 2600 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above = 166FSB = PC-2700 = DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above = 200FSB = PC-3200 = DDR400
Set Fsb / Dram Ratio to 1:1 that means that the memory is working at the same speed as the fsb does.
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock. You can use faster RAM on a slower system and the motherboard bus will switch down in speed accordingly. The speeds given above are what should be used as a minimum, otherwise you're creating a serious bottleneck of data from the RAM.
Use a decent RAM testing utility such as Memtest86 if you suspect RAM is faulty. Typical failures of RAM include but are not limited to:
a) BSOD (Blue Screen of Death!)
b) Data Corruption
c) Machine won't cold boot
Try your system always with 1 RAM module at a time to see if you have a bad module. Swap modules if you have more than 1 to see if one or the other is bad. When upgrading remeber that adding more modules can give you trouble too. Especially if you mix manufacturers. Some sticks just won't work in pairs and some fail when you put 3 or more in the system. When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the nVidia tested and approved modules, they are your best chance that they will work without problems.
If still nothing try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or raise the RAM voltage a little but be careful doing this! Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in the system.
7) BIOS
Sometimes when we play with our BIOS settings and set something wrong in it or set something incompatible with our hardware this causes the motherboard to not boot up. Sometimes they come from the factory that way as well. If so then clear the CMOS and start with the default settings. If it works try setting ONLY A FEW SETTINGS at a time and nothing more! If it works then go further from there a couple of settings at a time.
There are issues when changing VCORE and it gets stuck.
There are 3 ways to work around this issue.
1. Updating to the latest bios seems to fix it most of the time.
2. Clear CMOS, change VCORE in the BIOS, save changes then reboot and it should be changed.
3. Change VCORE in BIOS, save changes, turn off pc then disconnect PSU from wall outlet by either disconnecting the power cord or use the switch on the backside of the psu if there is one. Reconnect the power cord or turn the switch on again. Boot up the system, go into the BIOS and check under pc health to see if it has changed.
For RAID boards only!!
If you recieve a message at boot saying:
No Hard disk/drive present...BIOS will not be installed...
or something comparable, it means that there are no drives connected to the raid controllers and it's not installing the drivers needed to support the function of that particular device FROM BIOS ONLY! This is nothing to worry about and all of the other functions of your machine should work properly.
Modded bios to fix problems when using multiplier 10 and 10.5 and also to be able to use a higher FSB than with the MSI bios.
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46052
8) Clearing the CMOS chip
Disconnect the system power cord and push the case power button to drain all remaining power in the psu for approximately 15 seconds
Then move jumper jbat1 and wait 10 seconds and move it back to the original position. You should ensure that the jumper has metal inside of it when removed, sometimes (rarely) they don't. This process resets or clears the CMOS chip and is shown in most motherboard manuals.Now connect the power cord and restart your system.
Some motherboards require that the battery must be removed for 20 minutes before putting the battery and jbat1 back for the CMOS chip to be cleared.
***Starting your K7N2 Delta2 at default settings***
By "labtech1"
As some of you will be aware there is no safe mode jumper J10 on the K7N2 Delta2 series of boards. This has been replaced by the "insert" key method as used by Abit and Epox. To start your board at its default settings following an unsuccessful overclocking attempt you need to do the following using a ps2 keyboard. Turn off your machine and disconnect from the mains or turn off the switch on the back of the power supply. Press the front panel power switch several times to discharge any charge remaining in the power supply capacitors. Reconnect the power by plugging into wall socket or turning on psu power switch. Press and hold down "insert" on the keyboard and press the case front panel power switch. If you are successful it should start the cpu and memory at 100Mhz FSB. If it does press "delete" to reenter the bios to change your settings to known safe settings. Good luck.
9) Harddisks
If your hard drive is giving you problems:
Western Digital (WD) drive's are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone drive with no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = Use this setting on your main drive if you have a slave drive installed in your system.
Jumper slave = Use this setting if you have a second hard drive installed in your system.
Cable Select - the preferred jumper setting
If your Hard Drive is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the color-coded connectors to the color-coded connectors on the motherboard and connect the other END of the cable to the hard drive. The middle connector can be left unattached without problems if not needed.
Not all motherboards have color-coded connectors.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Run drive fitness test (DFT)
Maxtor also has its own version of hard drive check for their drives and is available from their website.
Any brand of hard drive can have problems so check the manufacturer website to see if there is a testing utility to use to make sure they are ok. Hard drive failures can cause some of the strangest problems with computers and should be checked via the Event Viewer of your Operating System or using the mfg's utility. Sometimes the Event Viewer will give you clues that you have bad sectors leading you to a potential hard drive failure. You could also find IDE/SCSI controllers that are suspect by looking there as well. Win9x and ME DO NOT have Event Viewers.
Alway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape! If you suspect that it's not, replace it to verify.
IDE devices and hard drive guide (Written by Assaf & Bas)
IDE devices and hard drive guide(Written by Assaf & Bas)
To enable a hard drive over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The K7N2G & Delta -ILSR boards support 2 IDE Devices on IDE 1 & 2, 1 IDE hard drive on IDE3 and 2 SATA drive's on the SATA Ports.
There is a modded bios that allows 2 drives on IDE3. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Here is a link to it:
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626&highlight=
Harddisk/power LED not functioning:
If your Hard Drive or Power LED doesn't work try turning the plug around on the motherboard connector. Some manufacturers don't mark or wire the LED cables properly and the LEDs will only work when + and - is correct.
Hard drive LEDs do not work with SATA drives but O&O Drive LED opens a little window and there you can see when a harddrive or cd is accessed. Works on both ide and sata drives.
10) Floppy Drives
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the LED stays on all of the time make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS because the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable making sure that the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side and flip the connector at the around. If it stays on after that or you still can't read a floppy disk try another drive or a different manufaturer type drive.
11) USB Ports
USB 2.0 ports are supported ONLY in Win2000 w/SP3 and XP w/SP1. Update your OS from Windows Update and let the OS install the ports after reboot and they should work.
If your USB ports aren't working:
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled. If you're using the front USB ports of your case check to see if all of the wires are connected properly.
There are 4 wires for each USB channel.
In some manufaturer's cases they are supplied with a wire called USBOC. Don't connect this as it can cause problems.
Also different mfg's mark the wires with different names so the basic nomenclature would be something like this:
+5v = +VCC
-D = -USB
+D = +USB
Note: Normally the cables are marked as +USB1 or -USB1, +USB2 or -USB2 and so on...please ensure that all of the 1's are together and all of the 2's are together.
12) Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case. But if you do so please support the board because if you don't you might bend the board a little and cause trace breakage or component connections to the board to crack or break causing a bad contact. Always support the board when you replace components no matter what!
Also make sure your system is compatible with any replacement component. For example your PSU may not be able to handle a video card upgrade from a GeForce2 440MX to a GeForce4 Ti-4600 because the +12v rail is too low or the motherboard isn't rated to output the proper voltage to the AGP port.
If you have parts that work in another computer with a different chipset this DOES NOT mean they will work with the nforce2 chipset.
13) Graphics Card
If there is stability problem and/or can't use agp 8x then update to the latest bios and it should work. Also try to disable the 8x feature of the motherboard in the BIOS. If neither of these work then you may have a PSU that is under-powered and needs to be replaced. You could also have a faulty video card, AGP port on the motherboard among other things. If you have to disable the 8x feature in the BIOS then there is still a problem even if the card starts working. That may mean the motherboard is bad. Also use the latest drivers available from the respective manufacturer and don't forget to uninstall the old drivers first!! There is a sticky post in the VGA forum that details this process.
14) Checking the power supply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
a) Disconnect the power supply.
b) Orient the 20-pin power connector with the clip up.
c) Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire. (Usually the PSU manufacturer will have a drawing labeling the pins on their website)
d) Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
e) Now connect the power cord and the fan inside the power supply should start spinning. If it doesn't your power supply might be dead.
15) Windows
a) If you find that Windows2000/XP won't run stable:
Try to disable APIC and install again. Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
b) Windows2000/XP won't install USB 2.0:
Install the latest service pack using Windows Update (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP). Windows should detect the USB ports on reboot and install the drivers for them. They should work now but if not you could have a faulty motherboard.
If you use a current or slipstreamed copy of Win2K or XP with the latest service pack they include these new drivers. This download will no longer be available on Windows Update.
USE THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Slipstreaming Win2K with Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD:
http://old.bink.nu/bootcd/
Slipstreaming Windows XP Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD
http://www.windows-help.net/WindowsXP/winxp-sp1-bootcd.html
16) Raid
Configure a raid array:
After you have connected 1 or 2 hard drives to your Raid IDE port(s) press CTRL + F during boot and create a raid array.
It is possible to have 2 raid arrays working at the same time.
To boot from a raid array set SCSI as the first boot device.
To install windows on a raid array you have to press F6 to load raid drivers during the initial install of windows. This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives. A default driver is loaded at bootup so that the drives can be accessed until the real drivers are loaded from the MB disk.
Raid 0 sets up striping which gives more performance for applications. Raid 1 sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a raid array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
nForce 2 raid FAQ
(Mostly by Wonkanoby)
The third IDE only works with harddrives not optical drives such as CD,DVD. It only supports one drive.
You must create an array first, weather you are using 2 drives or just one
or nothing will happen .
You must also have a 3.5 floppy with the appropriate drivers handy.
INSTALLATION
To install raid as a boot drive.
Control + F and make the array.
Set SCSI second to cdrom in boot order.
Boot to xp cd and hit F6 as it prompts you to do right at the beginning and then insert the floppy.
This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives.
The rest of the format/install is all as normal.
Drivers for the raid can be found here.
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/sata48N.exe
Promise PDC20376 Serial-ATA RAID Utility
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/37653.exe
If you make a new floppy, unrar them.
Then copy every thing including the text files to the floppy.
(no text files, nothing happens)
MODDED BIOS
such as
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626
There are several offering full RAID.
They add ability to have 2x drives on ide 3.
I'm skeptical running raid 0 with both on the same ide myself.
Now these you must get the bios and the drivers.
The drivers are not the same as those for the RAID MSI includes.
The drivers are linked on that BIOS page I have provided.
RAID 0, sets up striping, which gives more performance for applications.
RAID 1, sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a RAID array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
17) Good Links
J*A*G'S *Updated* nForce Cooling Guide (written by JAG)
Suggestions on posting and getting better answers (written by GlennVidia)
Good Memory Choices for K7N2G- IL and ILSR Board (written by Bonz)
ati problem ,post vga card model and bios (written by Wonkanoby)
Powersupplies(Written by Bas)
Moan Guide (Written by Wonkanoby)
A few good websites to have around!!
The Freeware Thread
NFORCE 2 OVERCLOCKING AND MODDING GUIDES
Use these guides, including the content of this entire guide, at your own risk!
This forum and it's members, including MSI, assume no liability whatsoever!
Part One
Part Two
I am not an expert on computers so I have most likely forgotten a lot of things. Please send me a private message or email me and I will add it if it's applicable. If you feel that something here is in error then please contact me via the above as well.
I also want to thank everyone that helped put this guide together.
All Star Lineup!
Arioch
DeathStalker
maesus
ClarkKent57
boost
Assaf
Bas
Tweetyoost
Stygge
HansH
GlennVidia
RoganJosh
Bonz
Wonkanoby
Dragon60
[T-A]_Super_10
labtech1

ASR1001 CPU Die treshold?

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