Best printer to run on iBook G4 OS 10 and iMac OS 9
I'm looking for a printer in the $100 - 200 range that will work with both of my computers- both have Firewire connections. I mostly print black and white. I think I'd prefer ink jet, but if I could find an inexpensive laser printer that doesn't take up too much space I'd be willing to spend more for one. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good, reliable printer?
Most printers use USB or Ethernet, very few use FireWire.
You may have a difficult time getting a USB printer to work with OS 9. I would guess that the newer printers don't include drivers for OS 9.
It may be best if you find an Ethernet printer. Those should work from OS 9 or OS X.
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How does one continue to use Mail on the early MacBook Pro, Model 1,1, that is not upgradable to Lion? I have been running iCloud on my iPhone (OS5) and iMac (Lion) along with the MacBook Pro (OS Version 10.6.8) since November until now. Mail will no longer download on the MacBook Pro and keeps asking for my password.
Mail should still be usable with your machine - but you'll need to update the settings to conform to the requirements of your system. Check with your ISP (like ATT, etc.) for the settings that will work with your Mail. Once you've updated this, you should be able to email like before.
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What is the best way to run windows on my Mac? And What are the pitfalls I should watch for?
What is the best way to run windows on my Mac? What are the pitfalls/
If you need Windows as your main operating system you would be better off buying a Real Windows PC.
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Best printing protocol for hp Laserjet printer?
I have a small office network of 12 computers running 10.4.11 and 10.5.6 and 2 hp Laserjet printers. I have historically used Bonjour to set-up the printers, but have found that periodically the users cannot print because the printer cannot be found. This seems to happen randomly or if the ethernet is ever unplugged/plugged into the printer. I have to delete the printer and re-add it to return to normal functionality. Obviously a pain for multiple computers. I've recently explored the use of the IP printing to these same printers using "IPP', "LPD", and "HP Jetdirect Socket" and the printers IP address on the network. This set-up seems to be more resilient to changes, however, I do not know enough about the different protocols to make an educated decision on which is the best for this environment. I have found that I can print remotely when connected to the VPN through these protocols.
Can someone please advise which protocol would be best suited (and why)?
ThanksThanks.
Out of curiosity...why LDP over IPP? What is the difference? I've tried both, and can't tell a difference. Not sure if one is a newer protocol? -
Pre-Size Your PPI for Best Print - Once Good Advice Still Good?
In another thread someone mentinoed pre-sizing image data to prepare it for best printing.
For a long time it's been "standard advice" to resize images so that the ppi is an even division of the printer's dpi, because some years ago occasionally one would run across printers that would produce poor results if you didn't - you might see jaggies in straight edges for example.
Thing is, computers have (not so) quietly been getting more powerful over time, and printer makers have been competing with one another to try to make their printers produce better results than the other guys. One way they've done this is by improving the quality of the algorithms in the printer drivers. Use of mega storage and high accuracy math, which was once taxing on older computer systems, is now standard practice.
So it's time to question the old rule of thumb.
Making a few assumptions about the many variables (what printer, what OS, what version of drivers, what application being used to print) , there seem to be several questions here:
1. Can the image resolution be too high, causing the printer driver to make bad decisions about what ink dots to lay down where on the paper?
2. Does it help or matter if the image PPI is an even division of the printer's DPI?
As I have done in the past, I set out to do some actual testing, to see if I can actually SEE anything to help answer these questions.
I created a sharp image to be printed at 3 x 2 inches: http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/Ghirardelli.jpg
Then I printed it at 6 different resolutions (1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, and 100 ppi) by resampling the image, labeling it, printing from Photoshop CS5, and feeding the same sheet of HP Premium Plus photo paper through my older HP 932c inkjet printer 6 times. The printer was set to its highest quality settings, including 2400 x 1200 dpi mode. This was the result:
I then looked critically and as objectively as I could at the different images. Here are my observations:
Naked eye:
The four highest resolution images (1000, 720, 567, and 300 ppi) all seemed to have an equivalent high level of crisp detail.
I could not detect the inkjet dots. Smooth objects look smooth.
Jeweler's Loupe:
I could see significant reduction in the finest details in the 300 ppi print vs. the three higher resolution prints, and a slight reduction in the 567 ppi vs. 720.
At no resolution were any jaggies or evidence of aliasing visible.
The inkjet dot pattern was plainly visible, and it does differ between the different prints. But it was not possible to say whether one was "better".
Things seem to have a little more texture in the 1000 ppi print vs. the 720 and 567 ppi prints.
Macro Photo:
Lacking a high resolution scanner, I took photographs of the 6 different prints. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to set up with my best lighting and lens combination, so I got some reflections off the glossy paper, and and at this resolution I can't really see the inkject dots in the photos. I want to repeat this when I can find more time to do it better. As I did these photos hand-held, I believe the variances between them could be slightly influencing the results. But I'm going to post them anyway, for you to see.
I could see ever so slightly more detail in the 720 ppi print vs. the 1000 ppi print, though from the size of the tiny dust/light reflections I think it may have just been the better focused. Note that this observation is not supported by direct observation through the jeweler's loupe, above.
The 1000 ppi and 567 ppi prints seems to have slightly more noise or texture than the 720 ppi print. Again, this might be issues introduced by the photography process, though I did note a possible increase in texture in the 1000 ppi print with the jeweler's loupe as well.
Beyond just the blurring, I could see some evidence that straight lines are not quite as straight in the lower resolutions (300 ppi and lower). This seemed more apparent than with the jeweler's loupe examination, and I wonder whether the Photoshop downsampling process could have introduced it.
Left to right, top to bottom: 1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, 100:
Conclusions:
Printing to my HP 932c inkject printer on Windows 7 x64
300 ppi is not sufficient to coax the best possible detail out of an inkjet printer. It appears a number in the vicinity of 720 or more is better, and this number could be much higher with modern very high resolution printers (mine's old).
Speed was no different in printing any of these - a modern computer can process a huge amount of data in the blink of an eye.
When a sufficiently high resolution image is printed (in this case 567 ppi or higher) I saw virtually no evidence that a particular ppi value is superior, for example an even division of the printer's dpi, though in hindsight I realize I should have prepared a 600 ppi image (duh). I will add a 600 ppi image before I re-photograph the results.
It's possible ever so slightly more texture becomes visible at 1000 ppi than 720 ppi, but it might be just noise.
Practically speaking, from looking critically at the results I could not see a reason to pre-size the image for a specific ppi value.
I encourage you to experiment and report your results with your particular combination of gear.
Your comments are welcome!
-NoelNoel Carboni wrote:
Jeff Schewe wrote:
I would never suggest people actually downsample though...why waste the pixels?
Exactly. There was a statement in another recent thread that downsampling to be an even fraction of the print dpi was important to do.
It might have been a misapplied extension of the advice to upsample. It's not been all that long that we've had big enough high resolution data that even makes downsampling a possibility.
-Noel
I believe I was the one to make that statement, which was based on recommendations by an Epson Print expert at a seminar demoing printers. He showed to prints from the same file, one set at an even multiple of 720 and the other some random number. It was subtle but visible the difference. That was probably 5 years ago.
In the meantime, I have made extensive tests of prints on my Epson 3800 trying many combinations of single pass, hi speed, Super fine print (2880x1440) and down to the basic level.
Everything evened out at 720 dpi. At 360, which is where I output from ACR, I can make an 8x12 print with no resampling whatsoever. Upping that to 720 and pushing the printer hard (2880x1440, single pass on Canson Platine), I see a discernable difference in the smooth tonalities.
As I understood you from past conversations, you employ the maximum output size from ACR which in my case, would double the file size by upsampling, and if necessary, downsample from that. I am not comfortable doing that as a default operation, but perhaps Jeff S might step in here and clarify. After all, ACR does offer that option! But my file size now goes from ~70MP to 143 MP, cutting my storage capability by 1/2. It's not a trivial matter when two of us here can run 600 to 800 images in 1/2 day! -
Need a printer for my old iBook (old apps won't translate) but also for a MacBook Pro, 10.6.8! Anything compatible?
If I understand this correctly, you wish to print from the iBook under Mac OS 9.2.x and from the MacBook Pro under Mac OS X 10.6.8 (no AppleTalk support in the latter).
What type of printer did you have in mind? Does it have to be colour? Otherwise, a monochrome laser printer may be the best choice (high print quality and a low per page cost). A networkable PostScript printer may be the most compatible. Additional information would make it easier for someone here to suggest a solution.
If you would be willing to accept some extra work and certain limitations, another way could possibly be to "print" to a PDF file on the iBook via a printer driver called PrintToPDF, and then transfer this file to the MacBook Pro and carry out the "real" printing there.
http://www.jwwalker.com/pages/pdf.html
Jan -
I have an Epson printer on a Wifi network. Windows 7 desktop is running the network, and my wife's HP Win 7 laptop prints to it just fine. My MacBook Pro running Yosemite won't detect it, and I do have the latest driver installed. I didn't have a problem when I had a Canon Pixma on the network, but when I replaced it with the Epson nothing seems to work. I go to add a printer to the queue and only the FAX function of the printer shows up - not the WS-4530 print function. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? Please??? :-)
Hi Kelly,
As someone who has to print from my Mac to a networked printer at home all the time, I can certainly understand how frustrating it must be to have that fail to perform as expected. Let's see if we can get you up and running.
I would suggest that you troubleshoot using the steps in this article -
OS X Yosemite: Printing troubleshooting
Start with the section titled Check the network.
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Sincerely,
Brett L -
So, here is what the support page for iOS 4.2 & iBooks says I can do:
Printing or Emailing a PDF
You can use iBooks to send a copy of a PDF via email, or to print all or a portion of the PDF to a supported printer.
Email a PDF: Open the PDF, then tap and choose Email Document. A new message appears with the PDF attached. When you finish addressing and writing your message, tap Send.
Print a PDF: Open the PDF, then tap and choose Print. Select a printer and the page range and number of copies, then tap Print. For more information, see “Printing” on page 44.
You can only email or print PDFs. These options aren’t available for ePub books.
However, I don't ever see the icon to actually do this. Does this functionally exist or is it just talked about? Is there supposed to be an iBooks update in the App store that I don't see? I'm just really confused, but could really use this functionality.I've been trying to figure this one out too. Checking out the fine print on AirPrint is what crushed my hopes of using this feature. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4356 Aparently printing only works with an AirPrint supported printer. AirPrint also requires the latest iTunes update. So if you do own one of the printers on the aparenly short list of HP printers try updating your iTunes, otherwise just curse Apple for being fraught with propriety, money grubbing, BS. Then go buy one of the third party apps for printing, something that should be standard issue, especially for a device like the iPad.
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What's the best way to run FrameMaker 8 on a Mac?
What's my best bet for running FrameMaker 8 on a MacBook Macintosh laptop?
Can I run FM 8 directly under OS X, since it's a Unix app? Any special tricks to making it go?
Or will I need to run FM 8 under Linux or Windows? If so, I'll need to be able to copy and paste from one environment to the other. What are my options? Their pros and cons?
I'm switching from a PowerBook to a MacBook so I can run MacSpeech Dictate dictation software. Dictate ONLY runs on Intel Macs.
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I have over half a million words of FrameMaker files, including 7 volumes of cross-referenced research notes I add to almost daily. Since I am heavily dependent on FrameMaker's features, it's a must-have.
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> yesterday runs the Unix version of FrameMaker directly under OS X
There is NO way to get the Unix (=Solaris) version of FM 8 to run
under OS X. It's an executable compiled for the SPARC processor,
and I don't think Apple has made a SPARC/Solaris emulator... :-)
/Thomas Michanek -
How can I print to my HP OfficeJet 6500 Wireless Printer from my iPhone 4S which used to work (on prior iPhones) before AirPrint printers were even available? (running Mac Lion OS, all software and HP sw updates are all performed)
I don't get it, I read one post about why would we have to buy an AirPrint Printer when we have used the "print to a wifi printer" just fine in the past? Yes I feel that's exactly what's happening to me now too. I want to print from my iPhone and iPad to my WiFi Printer which is also now connected to my Airport Express WiFi network just fine. No problems.Very glad you added that bit of information because I see different problems similar to this. I want to share with them what you did and hopefully you not only fixed your specific problem but you can lend some more advice to others with problems like this. Thanks!
Don't forgot to say thanks by giving "Kudos" if I helped solve your problem.
When a solution is found please mark the post that solves your issue.
Every problem has a solution! -
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Hi,
I have started upgrading my application from Dev2000 1.3 to Dev2000 6i in order to deploy on web. I have few questions to ask
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3. JInitiator
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I'm quite new to j2EE developement.
Currently im working on a web based user management application ( a small scale one ).
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>
Is it ok if i develop according to this model , or is it better to use Entity Beans for data acccess ?Neither. Use POJOs. What are EJBs buying you?
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Best specs to run Photoshop CS6 on a MacBook Pro.
Hi,
I am considering a MBP for all my photoshop work. Currently using Photoshop CS6
From 2007-2010 I had my old MBP (late 2006 model). Then in 2011 I was using the 2011 iMac, 2.5ghz, 4gb ram. I sold the iMac as I felt more comfortble with the laptop in terms of working anywhere and anytime. Also for some reason I just strangly enough found the iMac a bit sluggish compared to the smooth performance I had with my old MBP. I mean the iMac is fast, way faster than my old MBP, but sometimes the mouse is just stuck there and i feel annoyed that I cant get moving on as i am waiting for 'something' thats really not there... However I do think that it may have been due to the wireless bluetooth mouse that I was using... but not sure.
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15"
I am considering the 15" MBP base model but bump up the RAM to 8gb... I wish it were more than 8 though...
and getting a SSD drive of 128gb... too expensive other wise and this is enough for my work files as I have 2 additional backups on external HDs.
and VRam of 512gb
with an anti glare display... as the glossy is just plain killing me (experienced on my old iMac).
13"
I like the size & portability of the 13", but the lack of a dedicated VRAM is putting me off. I could always get an external display later if the need be, however what about VRAM... its shared right? How will that affect CS6 performance?
So any suggestions regarding my choice of specs. I would like to really bump up the RAM but the only option i have is 8gb. Also I hope to use this system for another 3-4 years alteast if it does not have any other issues.Is the 128g drive just a scratch drive? I may be marginal if you use big files and lots of layers. Best to have seperate internal physical drives for scratch and program files.
VRAM of 512g is considered min. now. Can you get 1 gig?
Personally 15" is the smallest I would go. Am old and a 24" is better viewing for me. -
Color management settings for the best print output
Color Management while Printing has been one of the challenging areas which has been discussed a lot over user forums and has been a painful area in terms of clear understanding while taking print outputs.
Here is an easy-to-understand KB (Knowledge Base) article ‘Color management settings for the best print output’ to help you get the best from your printers using PSE and bridge that knowledge gap.
This article explains color management in Photoshop Elements, how to get better prints, and addresses some of the following issues like horizontal/vertical streaks in print output, too dark or too light print output, ICC profile problems and Color differences between prints from PSE and other applications.
Thanks,
GarryThanks Noel.
Yes have shared in PSE forum as well. But I usually drop such posts on PS General forum so community moderators as well as our power users who mostly use both PS or PSE or are aware about can communicate to their students, audiences etc.
The idea is to reach out the message to as many as folks via relevant forums. Most of my otehr posts have found mentioned only on PSE forum.
Thanks for the feedback Nice to hear such a great feedback within 5 mts of publishing
Regards,
Garry -
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