Best stand for MacBook Pro and Apple LED Display

I am buying a MacBook Pro and Apple LED Display tomorrow. I want to have a two display setup, similar to what I have seen in the Apple Store. I believe they used a Griffin Elevator. I want to make sure of two things: that the stand is sturdy enough so that my laptop won't slide off of it and that I can adjust the stand/monitor so that the tops are level (so that moving my mouse from the laptop to monitor and back is smooth - i.e. the cursor doesn't jump up or down.
I like the fact that I can use this setup to go mobile very quickly, but what about my direct Ethernet connection. I wish there were a stand/dock such that I could hook everything up to it and then just undock the entire machine.

How did you solve the problem of closing the Macbook Pro when it was connected to the display and preventing it from going to sleep?
I am thinking about buying one. When I went to the local Apple Store the tech guys told me that it would be necessary to keep the laptop open slightly when connecting it to the display. They said it was something to do with cooling. It didn't sound right to me. I'm sure that Apple didn't solely intend for the Cinema Displays to be used by Mac Pro and Mac Mini users.
There must be a simple way to "dock" or connect a Mac laptop (Macbook Pro or Macbook) to an Apple Cinema display or any other display with DVI input while keeping the laptop closed with an external keyboard and mouse connected and still be able to use the SuperDrive.
I'm very curious about how you handled this.
All the best for now,
Ambrose

Similar Messages

  • Random Black Screen Flash Macbook Air and Apple LED display

    So I have started to see an issue with the new Macbook Air and my Apple LED 24" display. Randomly only maybe 2-3 times a day the screen will go black and then quickly come right back, like a blink. Anyone else see this behavior? This does not happen with the internal built-in screen on the MBA. Feels like a driver or software issue to me.

    Hi Steve,
    I have the same model you've mentioned. Although my issue is not the same, at times when I open my laptop up, I have a black screen, and have to manually power-down. I can tell the keys still work, as I use the brightness buttons and can tell the contrast is getting higher.
    Also last night my keyboard/trackpad stopped working, however the power button did bring up the shutdown options but the trackpad still did not work.

  • What is best blue tooth presenter for macbook pro and air

    What is best Blue Tooth presenter for MacBook Pro and Air?

    You got lots of choices such as:
    WD Studio
    http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=200
    WD Studio 2
    http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=210
    WD My Book
    http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=250
    Lacie:
    http://www.lacie.com/dk/products/range.htm?id=10007
    http://www.lacie.com/dk/products/range.htm?id=10036
    The are tons of external storage for mac out there but these are a few of them...
    I personally like the WD Studio 2 and the LaCie 2big Network 2

  • I have a macbook pro and apple tv2. My problem is that my hard drive is full. What is my best option to empty movies off of my macbook but still access them through atv2?

    I have a macbook pro and apple tv2. My problem is that my hard drive is full. What is my best option to empty movies off of my macbook but still access them through atv2?

    ok. I do have a time capsule but if I move itunes on to it how do I sync my ipods and iphone? Or can I have my Itunes account on both and just move my movies to the time capsule?

  • What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

    What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

    1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
    If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
    OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
    2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
    The following caveats apply to XProtect:
    It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
    It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
    3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
    Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
    It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
    A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
    An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
    For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
    4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
    5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
    That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
    Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
    A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
    Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
    Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
    Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
    Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
    Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
    6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
    Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
    Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
    Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
    Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
    7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
    Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
    Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
    In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
    By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
    8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
    An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
    A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
    ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
    Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
    The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
    9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
    10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

  • How do I synch my iPhone5, MacBook Pro and Apple TV so that my iTunes downloads appear automatically on all three devices?

    How do I synch my iPhone5, MacBook Pro and Apple TV so that my iTunes downloads appear automatically on all three devices?

    Let me see if I've gotten this right! You want to remove an account from BOTH machines? Do this for your new machine first, then for the other.
    Click the Apple logo on the top left of the screen, System Preferences, Users and Groups (under Systems), unlock the lock in the window if its locked (you need to know the password), select the user that you wish to remove, and click the - sign next to the + sign for Login options. A window will pop up with some options. Select Delete this user and securely, and click 'Delete user'.
    After this, do an update from the App Store.
    Thats all there is to it.
    For the other machine repeat the process except for one thing. Before you delete the user in this case YOU, you will have to give Administrator priviledges to your son bu checking the box 'Allow user to administer this computer'.
    Do NOT do anything from Finder ... if you dont know how to fix the consequences of the problems caused.
    There is no need to unauthorize your iTunes account on your new machine. Do it on the old machine though.

  • Airplay mirroring between my MacBook Pro and Apple TV (1080p one) has always worked fine until now. I only sometimes get video but usually just audio. Has anyone experienced the same issue?

    When using Airplay mirroring between macbook pro and apple tv I cannot see video, only hear the audio. Worked fine before. Any suggestions on what the problem could be?

    I have the exact same problem. The picture is very slow, incredibly pixelated... and renders my apple tv virtually useless until this problem gets resolved. I currently have an apple tv 3, ipad retina, iphone 4s, and a 2011 macbook air. I use the apple tv almost exclusively for mirrored content. And this is definitely causing quite a problem for me.
    I had been able to use this for presentations as well- but until this problem gets resolved - I may have to look for a backup solution/product. And I imagine that I'm not alone in this... Please get this resolved quickly!

  • Im completely new to Mac. Im swapping my windows laptop for macbook pro and looking for network storage solution which the Time Capsule seems to do. Is it possible to use this as NAS for my desktop Windows PC - windows 7

    Im completely new to Mac. Im swapping my windows laptop for macbook pro and looking for network storage solution which the Time Capsule seems to do. Is it possible to use this as NAS for my desktop Windows PC - windows 7

    Broadly speaking I want some sort of network storage( wireless or through my existing wifi router) that I can access files for both my windows PC and Macbook and also to access files to my iPad/ iPhone. Some sort of backup and sychronisation so that I can access certain files remotely.
    Buy a real NAS.. synology or QNAP are the standard... although companies like Netgear and Western Digital and Seagate make them as well.
    There is no problem sharing between Mac and PC now.. you do not even need a NAS to do that.. you simply share the hard disk directly. Mac talk SMB.. everything talks SMB nowadays.. so it is easy.
    ipad and iphone are not designed to use NAS.. they are designed to backup only to the cloud or itunes.. but you can load an app like file browser if you want.
    http://www.stratospherix.com/products/filebrowser/
    Remote access to the Apple TC is somewhere between difficult, to impossible from a PC.. Apple use BTMM and iCloud but the service is not offered to PC.
    A real NAS will offer HTTPS or SFTP or several other methods.. that both Mac and PC can use.
    You simply plug it into the current wireless router.. it is a network device and assessable over the network. It is not necessary to buy another router.. in fact that is a waste.

  • I want to get a hard case for my macpro.. Is this a hard case or silicon? Speck 13" SeeThru Satin Case for MacBook Pro and MacBook

    I want to get a hard case for my macpro.. Is this a hard case or silicon? Speck 13" SeeThru Satin Case for MacBook Pro and MacBook. Says hard cse but then easy to grip...anyone have one?

    description directly from the website: "Form-fitting hard-shell protection with a smooth, grippy, soft-touch feel."
    https://www.speckproducts.com/seethru-satin-macbook-pro-case-13-black.html

  • What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

    What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

    I dont understand? Why would a mac use a stylus when they aren't touchscreen?

  • HT201335 can i use air play with my macbook pro and apple tv

    can i use air play with my macbook pro and apple tv

    AirPlay Mirroring requires a second-generation Apple TV or later, OS X 10.8 or better and is supported on the following Mac models: iMac (Mid 2011 or newer), Mac mini (Mid 2011 or newer), MacBook Air (Mid 2011 or newer), and MacBook Pro (Early 2011 or newer). It also requires the computer to be using wi-fi.

  • HT201335 i have a 2013 model macbook pro and apple tv generation 3 . both connected to the same wifi , still no airplay mirroring icon or in my display setting . what els could be the problem

    have a 2013 model macbook pro and apple tv generation 3 . both connected to the same wifi , still no airplay mirroring icon or in my display setting . what els could be the problem

    Welcome to Apple Support Communities
    Read > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5404 Do you see the AirPlay icon on the menu bar? If not, restart the router

  • I downloaded a movie from itunes on my macbook pro and it wont display a picture

    i downloaded a movie from itunes on my macbook pro and it wont display a picture
    is their any way i can redownload it??
    or is their another solution ??

    Is the movie still buffering? you may have a slow internet connection. Music files require far less bandwidth than movies.

  • Best external hard drive for Macbook pro and Aperture

    Hi, any recomendations for an external hard drive for the macbook pro and aperture. I was looking for approx 300Gb !
    Many thanks
    macphi

    Personally I have had poor luck with LaCie Big Disk peformance and support and don't recommend LaCie. However I do recognize that my sample of one is statistically insignificant.
    The eSATA concept is interesting, but bleeding tech edge at the moment. For a solid solution that works now I recommend FW800 (forget USB) and RAID 0 technology. I have had great success with OWC and just bought their least expensive (in $ per GB) 640 GB FW800 US$370 RAID O drive setup: <http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/ME8R7640GB16/>.
    Just this week OWC introduced RAID 0 +1 drives that have RAID 0 speeds but also provide mirror backups. Perhaps the very best solution but pricey.
    EDIT: If you bought a 15" MBP instead of the 17" you forever lack FW 800. Go for a FW 800 or an eSATA Express Card solution when available. You could buy an OWC drive now and jusr run it FW 400 until you get an Express Card FW800 port. The OWC drive came with ports and cables for both FW 800 and FW 400.
    -Allen Wicks

  • Connecting Both Mac Mini and MacBook Pro to single LED display

    Is it possible to dock two mac computers to the same monitor, and have the ability to switch between each computer on the fly?
    I am trying to dock both a MacBook Pro and a Mac Mini to the same 24" Apple LED display. I would like it to be as close to a "switch" solution as possible, where it takes only a single button push to change between which computer is being displayed on the monitor. I am used to a PC, where I can hook two computers up to the same monitor, and change the input in the monitor to switch between the two computers that are hooked up to it.
    Since there are not any buttons on my monitor, and I am not used to Mac's yet, I am not sure how to easily switch? I was told I could do it when I bought it, but now the help desk is closed....
    Message was edited by: colsonjm

    I was hoping there was a better option. I have the wireless keyboard and mouse, and the two computers. I doubt there is a way to switch the wireless keyboard/mouse without disabling and reconnecting the bluetooth connection (and I really do not think there is a KVM switch for bluetooth devices yet)...
    That being said, I was hoping to continue to control the laptop with the laptop keyboard, and the mini with the wireless devices, and NOT go the KVM switch route... I was hoping there was a way to have the mini and the macbook both connected, and either push a button or access a menu to switch between the two...
    So am I hearing that this is not a viable option? I need to invest in a potentially expensive KVM switch, or run one of the two computers remotely from the other?
    The reason I am frustrated is that I was told when making the purchase that it was very much possible (by multiple employees over the phone and in store). I was also told by the tech people over the phone that everything I needed to do so would be in the box (no extra cables or anything needing purchase).
    Message was edited by: colsonjm
    Message was edited by: colsonjm

Maybe you are looking for