Canon 7d Mark Two

Does Camera Raw 8.3(142) support Canon 7D Mark Two

I fully expect ACR 8.7 Final and the DNG Converter 8.7 Final to support the 7D2 camera because there is an ACR 8.7 internal beta that DP Review used to convert raw files:
http://www.dpreview.com/galleries/reviewsamples/albums/canon-eos-7d-mark-ii-beta-real-worl d-samples
The second boat picture along the top was converted by a ACR 8.7 beta.

Similar Messages

When will Camera raw be available for processing Canon 7d Mark two in Photoshop Elements 12

When will Camera raw be available for processing Canon 7d Mark two in Photoshop Elements 12?

Hi,
Probably never.
PSE 13 is now out and updates are usually only compatible with the latest version - ACR 8.6 didn't even make it for PSE 12.
ACR 8.7 for PSE 13 should probably include support but we don't know when it will be released.
Brian

Can Camera Raw 8.6 as part of Elements 13 support Canon 7 D Mark Two?

Can Camera Raw 8.6 as part of Elements 13 support Canon 7 D Mark Two?

No...
Not yet.
Camera Raw CC and CS6 and Lightroom 5 Support for Canon SX60 Canon 7D Mark II
Some patience will be needed before an update in PSE13.

Easy Set-Up for Canon 5D Mark II Media

I was in the forum about a month ago, and thanks to you all I learned what I needed to know to transcode my Canon 5D Mark II media to FCE. But, now I am shooting with Canon's new firmware that allows to capture media at 24 fps. Now, I know that FCE is not optimum for this media, but because I don't use pirated software and I am low on cash what is the best Easy Set-Up for FCE. Now, I have it set at Format: HD ; Use: HDV-Apple Intermediate Codec 1080i60 ; Rate: 29.97.
Thanks for your help!

Hi Michael,
To answer you first question, I have FCE v 4.01.
I found the following video on u-tube very helpful,http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRpUs_My-Oo, however make sure you follow the instructions given in the forum as to what values to place in MPEG Streamline. If you combine the two you should be OK. I am not sure I understand your second question, but I have not had to make a render step in placing clips in FCE timeline. But, I am not that knowledgable about FCE. I am still very low on the learning curve.... yet, I hope this is somewhat helpful...Good Luck

Will there be a Camera Raw update For Elements 10 for the new Canon 5D Mark 3?

I have the new Canon 5D. Love the results but, I can not process the photos in Lightroom 4 or Elements 10. I downloaded the update for CS5 to see if there was a work around but I don't know my way around the software. It looks like someone dropped the ball big time on this one.
Joe

Ok, so what is so different in the Camera Raw for CS5/CS6 Beta vs Elements? You would think that they would be both the same! There are a lot of professionals like myself bought their Canon 5D Mk 3 thinking that the software would be there to support the camera release. Sure, I am also wondering why Canon hasn't done an update with the release. This feels like buying a car and some day in the future - we don't know when there will be road that you can drive it on.
Tried to convert the Mk 3 DNG files. Didn't work. Get a purple or pink cover over the images. It works great with my 7D files.
If I had a Camera to fall back on I wouldn't be so desperate but my Canon 7D (Which I have enjoyed for the last two years) was destroyed in a accident the day before the Canon 5D mark 3 was anounced. So, I am starting from scratch and I need access to my Raw files to get my work done. Working with Canon Software is not what I would use in a productive work flow. If this was a hobby - OK but for production work, I need the right tools and right now, LR 4 which is the back bone of my work is useless.

Canon 5D Mark ii Memory Card/CF Problem - Overwriting pic

Hello,
I have had my Canon 5D Mark ii for a year and a half now and love it. However, from time to time I have issues with the memory card/ memory card reader and it is really acting up right now. I have tried a couple of different memory cards, so I don't believe that the actual card is the issue. What happens is that the first pic comes out fine and then the next picture overwrites the one I just took and has a pink striped part through part of the pic. If I take a third pic it will overwrite it again and the whole pic will be very washed out and have that same pink strip through it. The only thing that works is taking out the memory card and putting it back in. I'm missing lots of pics lately though! See below for pic examples. In the second pic you can see the pink strip at the top. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? We are going to the beach in a few weeks and I really want my camera to work! Thanks!!! ~ Stacie

Stacie,
Almost always things like this are the fault of the CF card but not entirely. The things you need to know and do are....
Buy top quality cards like Snadisk or Lexar. Get them from known good retailers. Usually 4GB, 8BG or 16GB is best.
Only format the CF card with the camera, never with a computer. Format the CF card before each important shoot.
Have spares.
Another important factor is to set the camera back to factory defaults whenever you see someting you don't know how it happened!
You may want to reinstall your camera's firmware and this is a good time to make sure it is the latest from Canon.
Go to the 5D Mk II web page.
And card readers go bad. Get a new one. They are cheap. Even the USB port in your computer can fail so try a different port or another computer.
It is also possibilt that one or two of the very tiny pins in the CF card slot have been bent over. Use a flash light to see it they are all upright.
I use the entire line of 5D's and they are truly great cameras. You will love it.
EB
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

Problem with ACR 7 support of Canon 5D Mark III

Just purchased LR4 with ACR7 (upgrade from LR3.6 - not happy about that either, but I am mostly over it) and tried to import photos from my Canon 5D Mark III. Import feature sees all the .CR2 files but when I try to import them it complains that it does not recognize that file format. Not happy.

Unfortunately two important cameras, the Canon 5D.3 and the Nikon D800, came out during the transition between LR3/4 and PS-CS5/6 so Adobe released beta versions of LR and ACR to help tide people over, but what gets released when is kindof messy during the transition.
A major version release requires debugging and testing so the functionality, including new camera support, must be frozen earlier as compared to mid-version camera-support releases that have minimal coding changes. ACR7-beta functionality was frozen back in February so has even less camera support than ACR6.7 beta, which confused PS-CS6-beta users as well.
Just so you’re aware, there is a bug when doing extreme adjustments in the new toning model and geometric lens-corrections have been applied, so be careful with that in the new LR4.1 RC2. Eric Chan has said the bug will be fixed in the release version of LR 4.1. The same bugs exist in the final ACR 6.7 that came out within the last week, so it is unclear what the status of a bugfix is for PS-CS5 users.
Here is a forum post with more information. Also check out the other threads people refer to with other examples of the bug:
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4380573#4380573

I tested my new Canon 5D Mark iii with my 85 1.2 L lens. The images look terrible! What gives?

I just purchased a new Canon 5D Mark iii body. It is replacing my 1Ds Mark ii. I tested it with my 85 1.2 L series lens. I took the RAW images into Capture One 7 to look at them. I was highly disturbed at what I saw. The quality was no where near my Canon 1Ds Mark ii. The images seemed somewhat soft even after applying a consderable amount of sharpening. They also looked flat and lifeless, even after pumping the contrast and adding Clarity. All in all they looked terrible! I must have something wrong, as I have read countless times that the new chip gives incredible results.
When first attempting to set up my camera I set it to Adobe RGB and for RAW images only. I noticed that you seemed forced into deciding on a specific "Picture Style". I left it on the default settting of "Standard". Should that effect my RAW files, or is that bypassed altogether when shooting RAW? I noticed that in "Standard" mode that some in camera sharpening was applied to the files. Is that my problem? Should that be turned down to zero, as I would normally do all my sharpening afterward either in Capture One 7 or other software. I shot all my test images with fast shutter speeds so that is not the issue. This lens is in perfect condition and has always produced incredibly sharp contrasty images. What on earth could be wrong? Any suggestions? I am a professional shooter for the last 20 years, so this is really perplexing me! Help!!!

Hi Corey,
Picture styles are ONLY applied to JPEG images or video. They are never applied to RAW. Canon will "tag" the meta-data of the image indicating picture style choices so that desktop processing software that understands those choices can apply it after-the-fact. But the point of "RAW" is that the camera will not perform any change to the image which would result in a loss of original data.
As for the soft focus... the good news there is probably nothing wrong with your camera or your lens. It probably just needs a slight focus calibration adjustment (you don't even need to send it in for this.)
The camera sensor is analogous to a movie screen. If the image is blurry... it's not the movie screen... it's the movie projector (or the focus). However... keeping with that analogy... suppose we focused the image perfectly... but then moved the project a foot closer to the screen. The result would be a slightly out-of-focus image even though there is actually nothing wrong with the projector.
The phase detect focus sensors are on the floor of your camera. When the reflex mirror is down, some light is bounced down into those sensors to focus the image. The distance to the AF sensors vs. the distance to the real sensor is supposed to be calibrated to match... but it's actually possible for the AF sensors to think the image is focused when it's really slightly out of focus on the sensor. For this reason, your camera has auto-focus micro-adjustment capability -- in other words this is something you can test and tune yourself. The REASON you might do it yourself is because it turns out it can be different for every lens (even two EF 85mm f/1.2L lenses in a row might have slightly different focus). This adjustment is only available on the mid-range and pro bodies -- it's part of the reason you buy a premium body. The camera can actually remember the AF adjustment for each lens uniquely.
See this article: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/12/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-myths
Or this article: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/are_your_pictures_out_of_focus.shtml
BTW, to test the lens, I'd suggest getting a focus calibration target. You want controlled conditions when you do this -- don't shoot typical everday subjects because it wont be precise enough.
I use a DataColor Spyder "LensCal". The LensAlign products are also popular.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Canon 1Ds Mark II CR2 files -- Aperture vs. CS2 Raw

Hi Gang,
I can tell I'm going to be frequent flier here for a while as I experiment with Aperture. This forum is a great resource.
A question for other users of the Canon 1Ds Mark II (or other canon models for that matter). Compared to the CS2 Raw converter, which has been my converter to-date, I'm finding two things:
1. Lots of noise coming out of Aperture! It takes the form of image-wide color noise, appearing in both subtle color fields and patterned areas. I know this topic has been covered at length here and I'm finding that the noise reduction controls, combined with CS2's noise reduction filter, can solve the problem. However, it is still somewhat distressing -- particularly when it happens on ISO 100 shots.
2. The second issue is actually advantageous, although I'm not sure why it's happening. My conversions out of Aperture appear much richer and warmer than those coming out of CS2. It's very pleasing, but baffling. In comparison to the CS2 conversions, the Aperture versions seem much more vibrant, as if the color saturation has been bumped up and the contrast deepened. My attempts to replicate this using the CS2 controls have been unsuccessful, even though I'm a pretty sophisticated user of that tool.
I haven't shot film in years, but I can only describe the results out of Aperture as more "film-like". I almost feel as though CS2 has a leveling effect on the RAW data, working too hard to interpret the data to produce even exposure and color values across the image. Aperture seems to leave more of the data intact, producing a result that is closer to how the image was actually lit and shot.
Curious to know whether anyone has had similar results between the two tools.
Thanks in advance.

<...>
A question for other users of the Canon 1Ds Mark II
(or other canon models for that matter). Compared to
the CS2 Raw converter, which has been my converter
to-date, I'm finding two things:
1. Lots of noise coming out of Aperture!<...>
2. The second issue is actually advantageous,
although I'm not sure why it's happening. My
conversions out of Aperture appear much richer and
warmer than those coming out of CS2. It's very
pleasing, but baffling. <...>
On item one, it would be good to revisit your tests after 1.1 has come out - they are supposed to have improved the base RAW conversion for many cameras, and Canon I think in particualr since there have been lots of similar reports about noise.
But the second feature that will make things better even if the raw conversion were no better is the ability to fine-tune conversion parameters per-image. So if something is coming out noisy, you can turn up the noise reduction in conversion as opposed to using the noise reduction tool which can rather soften an image if applied too liberally.
As to the second point, I have seen reports from others there as well (including Rob Galbraith) saying that already colors from Aperture are better than many other converters - there was an article some time ago going into how much time the Aperture team went into making color rendtion as good as it could possibly be, I think to the exclusion of lots of other things. So when other aspects of the RAW conversion like detail, noise and sharpness have improved enough people I think will generally be really happy with the Aperture conversion and opinions will change quickly.
I think it's kind of interesting that until now very few RAW converters have been put to the kind of scrutiny that Aperture has been put through, certainly the first few versions of ACR were not looked at that closley by a wide audience. This will be great in the long run for all tools as improved Aperture conversions could fire off a real push across all the RAW conversion tools for improved quality. Bibble in my mind is the first out of the gate by improving not only the converter but also adding Noise Ninja and some lens correction tools.

Camera RAW Support for Canon 7D Mark II

Hi,
I've just purchased the Canon 7D Mark II, connected it to my PC, but then found that Adobe Camera RAW doesn't support it yet. Any updates when this camera might be possibly supported?

Would it really do any good for Adobe to communicate an official release date? If they didn't meet that date then you would just call Adobe a liar. Adobe has users from several different companies waiting for support. And whether you believe it or not, there is no providing of specs from camera makers. They don't care whether Adobe Camera Raw supports the camera. Adobe is just another company to them. Adobe has to purchase each camera and then create the profiles for it. The real solution? Camera makers, agree on a common file format. If you won't do that, then YOU take the blame for this delay that happens about four times every year.
Actually, it would help, Jim. It does not have to be exact... it would help to know "this quarter" or "by the end of the year" or "mid-December". It would help because I could decide whether to find a workaround patch, or switch to a different system.
The camera makers are more than willing to provide that info, but according to a contact at Canon USA, in 2008 Adobe changed the game and decided to be more proprietary with their compatibility, presumably so that people would be required to upgrade their software every year just to be able to use new camera technology. It was Adobe's decision, and they could easily decide to play nice. But it is an unfair characterization to say that the camera makers don't care if Adobe supports their camera. That is just a silly assertion.
It comes down to he said - she said, and the two companies are simply pointing fingers at each other. Neither you nor I know the absolute truth about who is right... I only know that I am dissatisfied with Adobe's lack of communication, and slow response when compared to other companies, larger and smaller.

Dark pictures with canon 5d mark 3 and 600ex flash, night indoors in Auto Mode and flash on.

I have purchased a new canon 5d mark 3 and speedlight 600ex-rt flash. While testing it indoor at night , the room lights are on and I was using the Auto Mode with Flash on. The pictures are Dark with the Flash on and when the flash is turned off the pictures are brighter. I am confused. How to get the AUto mode working with the Flash on.

Automatic mode, it it's attempt to be reasonably foolproof, is going to lock you out of having any control over the exposure.
The E-TTL metering system on your camera & flash are attempting to find the correct exposure for your subject.
Due to laws of physics (the inverse-square law), light has "fall off". It's not actually possible to use a single light source and expose a large room with that single light. Either the subject is nicely lit but everything else will probably be too dark. OR... the background is nicely lit but the subject is heavily over-exposed. (BTW, there are two ways to get around this.)
The amount of fall-off is based on the relative distance from the light. Every time the distance increases by a factor of 1.4 the amount of light is cut in half. This means if you have subject 10' away, but you have a foreground object only 7' away and a background object 14' away, and the flash is exposed for the subject at 10', then the foreground object will be over-exposed (with twice as much light as needed) and the background will be under-exposed (with half as much libght as needed.) Incidentally... if you "double" or "halve" the distance then the light difference will be 4x or 1/4 (depending on if you are getting closer or farther.)
Here's a video which both explains and then later demonstrates the concept in a way that makes it very obvious to see and easy to understand. If it seems confusing at first... stick with it. The video is only 12 minutes long.
In fully automatic mode the camera wont let you control anything (except how far away you stand from your subject).
If you switch to "Program" mode, it essentially works like automatic mode EXCEPT it will actually allow you to override settings or set compensations.
When you use a flash in a room with some ambient lighting (but otherwise dimly lit) there's a technique called 'dragging the shutter' (which the camera can actually do for you somewhat automatically).
To do that, set the camera to Tv mode (Tv = Time value... which is shutter priority mode). Dial in a slow-ish shutter speed... say around 1/60th of a second. Use a moderately boosted ISO (400 would probably work well... you might even go up higher).
The camera is going to evaluate the exposure needed for the room as though you don't have a flash... and it'll set the camera settings accordingly. However... since it knows you have a flash, it'll still perform the E-TTL II exposure metering and will use the flash anyway. What you end up with is a shot that has a nicely exposed primary subject (because the camera used flash) AND... a nicely exposed background which was primarily illuminated with ambient light -- but looks pretty good because the camera used an exposure that was adequate for the ambient light.
The reason I suggest using Tv mode and NOT Av mode is because you can control the mixture of flash vs. ambient light by controlling the TIME that the shutter is open. But this does NOT work if you control either the aperture or ISO.
Here's why: The flash is "momentary" but the ambient is constant. If you were to adjust the aperture settings, that will increase or decrease ALL the light sources that contribute to the exposure... so it increases (or decreases) the amount of flash AND the amount of ambient light ... and it does them in the same proportions. If you want to bright up the background lighting WITHOUT over-exposing your foreground subject, then you don't want to increase both... you only want to increase the amount of ambient light.
Since the flash is a momentary burst of light, if you leave shutter open longer you wont actually collect any more light from the flash (because the flash was providing illumination for only a tiny fraction of a second. Extending the amount of time that the shutter remains open means the camera will _only_ collect more of the ambient light... and that helps bring up the dark backgrounds.
One way to get around the flash fall-off problem is to greatly increase the distance between flash and subject. You still get "fall off" but now the distance you have to change to notice the fall off really increases. But this method usually isn't very practical because you'll be standing much farther then you'd prefer to be to get the shot.
The second way (and much more practical) is to "drag the shutter" (deliberately use longer shutter times so that the camera can collect more ambient light long after the flash is done.).
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Canon 5d Mark II shipment

I had recently ordered the new Canon 5d Mark II body online. Despite it being listed as on backorder, it said there was an estimated shipment of 1-2 weeks. The two week timeframe has come and gone and no new status has come. I wanting to know if anyone else has ordered this time from Best Buy, how long it took them to receive the item, and if there's any information on how often this particular product is received by Best Buy. I had tried e-mailing Best Buy on the customer service website about my order but a blank window just appeared after clicking submit and would never go through. Best Buy, I was wondering if you could give me an updated status on my product. Thanks.

I would not be surprised if Best Buy is having unanticipated availability problems tracing all the way back to the manufacturer for this unit. It is heavily backordered from every reputable retailer I have seen, the only people who list it as in stock are retailers with names I have never seen before at prices well above Best Buy, B&H, or Adorama (which surprisingly all offer the 5D for the same price, BB seems to have learned from the late CC's camera pricing mistakes).
*disclaimer* I am not now, nor have I ever been, an employee of Best Buy, Geek Squad, nor of any of their affiliate, parent, or subsidiary companies.

Final Cut PRo and Canon 5d Mark II Help Please

Hey guys working with HD video I shot with the Canon 5D Mark II. In playback on the time line the video appears jumpy and sticks at transition point between two clips. However when I output to a movie everything is fine. Just annoying in the editing process. Thanks

Ray:
That cam I believe shoot h.264 video. That is a delivery format, not an editing format.
It needs to be converted to an HD editing format.
Try pro res or pro res HQ. Open the clips in the QT Pro player and export, or use Compressor.

Exporting Canon 5D Mark ii footage..

I'm fairly new to final cut, im running a Mac Pro, 2 X 3 Ghz processor, 10GB memory, 10.6.2 snow leopard... and i still find myself having to render at every edit in the timeline, and now im having trouble figuring out how to export correctly to get the highest possible quality on youtube and/or vimeo
here's what i have done and researched so far:
i took my original canon 5d footage into MPEG streamclip and converted the files into Apple ProRes 422 (LT) at 30fp, i then created a custom setup in final cut 7 with the following presets:
SEQUENCE PRESET: Canon 5D Mark ii footage (duplicated an Apple ProRes 422 (LT) 1920X1080 30p 44.1ghz audio)
CAPTURE PRESET: DVCPRO HD 1080p30 48kHz (i won't be capturing in fcp since i've been using MPEG streamclip
DEVICE CONTROL PRESET: FIREWIRE NTSC
VIDEO PLAYBACK: (sometimes i have this set at Digital Cinema Desktop Preview - Full Screen so that i can take advantage of my other monitor, but it tends to drop frames faster in playback, so i usually have it set to "none")
AUDIO PLAYBACK: Default
now my question is, how do i correctly export this? i tried a couple different ways, some had skipped frames... others the audio was off... another setting made the colors way too contrasty after exporting...
also how can i solve this "rendering" issue... did i make a mistake in the beginning in setting up the timeline (btw , the sequence matches the same settings as the footage... ) i'm also playing back at "safe RT, medium quality, half frame rate..." not sure if that matters..
so yeah, my two main questions are, correct export for this file, and any help with render issues?
thank you..

oops.sorry...
here is a link to what i uploaded using Quicktime X directly to youtube..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3q19YDSdWE
it doesn't look as good as i think it could...and it has a HQ option instead of HD? i don't have quicktime pro so i couldn't export with exact settings, just directly to youtube... how can i export w/ final cut .. when i export using quicktime conversion and using Apple Pro Res, it ends up being a 1.34gb file and its only 1 minute... would i then need to compress it?
and yes i need to get rid of all the layers i have in the timeline.. maybe that might help but it was giving me the rendering "RED" color even in the beginning when i had 1 layer..
i changed audio to 44.1 because i read it somewhere online i believe it was under phillip bloom.. suggesting to change from 48 to 44.1 for all canon 5d footage.. ? im not sure why though..

Canon 5d Mark III and Lightroom 4.3 tethered shooting issues.

I bought a new Canon 5d Mark III and upgraded my lightroom to 4.3. I have been having issues shooting tehtered. I'll shoot and get some frames coming in and when I start plugging away the program bar will spin and I'll only get a few grey frames and it just kind of freezes. I don't know what to do.

LR4.3 was supposed to improve Lightroom's built-in tethering, but in my experience it still has some reliability problems - especialy in recovering from broken connections (not just unplugging USB but also if the camera loses power by sleeping or when changing a memory card).
Sorry if some of this is basic info, but I'd recommend you try a different USB cable - the cable end that connects to the camera is easilly damaged in a way that makes a connection possible, but unstable (I strongly recommend finding a cable with a 90 degree downward bend at the camera plug). Also, we often have to send a camera body in to have the USB port serviced. Canon has begun to provide a small rubber boot to reinforce the USB connection at the port, but they won't sell the part outside of a repair service. Be sure to use some kind of stress-relief for the cable at the camera. Tethertools sells one, but I've made mine DIY with a little string and a small binder clip... nearly free. Finally, be sure your cable is less than about 15 feet. If you need to go longer, I've successfully tethered with two cheap powered repeaters from Monoprice, but no single link should be over 15 feet.
Oh yeah, also set your camera to not sleep for a long time.
Beyond all that, is using EOS Utility for capture and LR Auto-import a viable option for you? It works very well for me. I use the Apple "Image Capture" app to tell my system to launch EOS Utility whenever the camera is connected - and set EOS Utility to launch into remote capture/camera control mode. It's very stable and recovers from disconnects or camera power loss and the remote camera control/live view can be pretty handy.
Another plus is that if you do need to disconnect USB and shoot to card, you can just copy new images from the card to your watched folder and they are imported to Lightroom with the same settings and location.
The only downsides for me is that there is no way to have a crop apply to new images using auto import -- and I have to re-save my develop preset each time I make a change. Using the "Same as Previous" option under develop settings in native tethering is so great for this and I'd love to see a similar option added to auto import.
Hope this helps.
-Andy

Canon 7d Mark Two

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