Choosing Color Profiles for Images Created on Film

I just finished sending feedback to Adobe on one of its tutorials. The following is a copy of my message explaining my present predicament.
<< I have scanned film negatives and positive film transparencies dating back to the 1950's .I was the creator of most of these images but I do not remember the make or model of the cameras I was using at any point in time prior to 1974 and they all lack metadata. Prior to 2000 I used iPhoto and PS Elements for scanning, toning and development. Thus I can only guess what color profile I should use. I want to create TIFFS that will serve a dual purpose: exporting two formats, one for electronic sharing and the other for printing. On the Adobe CC, if I guess wrong, LR 5.6 64bit crashes immediately. Prior stand alone versions of LR and CS6 let you know that you had a color inconsistency, but they did not crash when you had made a wrong choice between srgb and ProPhoto. ACC gives me more options, but no warnings unless I am missing something your Help Files should contain.>>
David Krupp Win7 64bit
Chicago, IL 773-281-6278. [email protected]

I guess I am going to throw caution to the wind and see what happens.
Only one way to find out, Right
Though I did go back and lighten my images. Also
Ran color synch utility, which fixed 11 corrupt color profiles.(none of the 11 profiles pertained to i photo)
I guess I am afraid to use pref setter,, to set the key embed color profile.
Confused as to what that means??? Does that mean that all my CS Adobe-RGB jpegs will keep their color profile???
Also implanted one image as an SRGB vs the rest which will all be AdobeRGB
Oddly my color management in CS is almost Flawless. Yet, get me out of CS and I am completely lost!!!! Complicated stuff
Toad, I did want to pass on that AdobeRGB 1998 is a much more robust color profile then SRGB especially when it come to printing on Epson. It might be worth experimenting with and if you really want to get into it there is also
Pro photo RGB which is Huge color space, but a beast to work with
Here is a link
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/prophoto-rgb.shtml
Will report back on my book
TF

Similar Messages

  • Color profile for print

    Do I need color profile for print taged in the file?
    I need to print some photos at LAB (photo lab) and they print in color space sRGB.
    I have created through Adobe Raw a JPEG file, which has untagged color profile.
    Is it necessary to have a color profile for a print at photo lab tagged in the file or better not?
    Thank you for explanation.

    Since you say the printer "prints in color profile sRGB", it sounds as though you should save your images tagged with the sRGB IEC61966-2.1 color profile.
    If I'm understanding you correctly "Lab" does not mean "print lab", it's an acronym that describes an alternate color space for representing an image, fundamentally different from RGB.  Print houses normally don't expect an image to be sent to them in Lab mode.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lab_color_space
    In all seriousness, you should ask these questions of their customer service:
    1.  What format should I provide the image in (JPEG, TIFF, etc.)?
    2.  Should I tag the image with the sRGB IEC61966-2.1 color profile?
    -Noel

  • Display Color Profile For iiyama HM903DT

    I've just been given an iiyama HM903DT monitor but it doesn't want to play with my mac mini
    The trouble is this:- If a turn on my mac with the screen powered on my machine creates a color profile for it (from monitor dcc information I suspect). That would be ok if the profile was correct but it's not. On some jpgs and tif files are massively over saturated (for example gingerbread man.tif) yet other jpegs and tifs are fine.
    If I start up my mac without the screen turned on my mac defaults to "Display" for color and all is well.
    I've check in Universal Access and 'Enhance Contrast' is set correctly, I've also tried using color-sync to no avail......
    What can I do to stop this bug it's driving me nuts!!!
    thingi

    Me too. Snow leopard seems to ruin my 9CA3 screen because the color looks to be washed out.

  • Good Color Profiles for LED 24"?

    Does anyone have any good color profiles for the 24" LED? I tried using one I really like on my MBP, but it looks completely different on the 24" LED. I don't really like the standard Cinema color profile - kinda light and washed out.
    Anyone?

    Go to Colour Display options and choose Calibrate to change the settings?

  • I can't calibrate any color profile for my iMac's display!

    I think I accidentally deleted the color profile for my iMac's display
    and now it won't let me calibrate any profile! All the colors are bright and washed out.
    When I go to the display>color preference panel I get an error sound whenever I click ANY color profile, and it doesn't load. When I click "calibrate" it gives me the message: "Can not calibrate the display. The factory profile for the display could not be found."
    But I wasn't even using the factory profile, and it won't let me choose any other ones, either (though a whole list does show up!)
    I tried repairing/verifying the profiles in the ColorSync Utility, but it didn't help.
    Is there somewhere I can download the profile and install it? I'm running a white 20" Core Duo 2GHz iMac (summer of 2006), if that helps.
    Thanks!

    seenew,
    I'm wondering if you would have any luck with resetting the PRAM? PRAM settings hold some of the display preferences I believe.
    See: "Mac OS X: What's stored in PRAM"
    If not, I am wondering if reapplying the Combo update for 10.4.7 might correct the display calibration issue or at least return it to the default?
    I don't think that recreating the .plist file for displays will help.
    As far as I know you cannot "download" the profile.
    sorry if those suggestions don't help,
    littleshoulders

  • Please help me find a color profile for Samsung 2343bwx

    Hi Everyone,
    Im just trying to get started in the graphical design field, I just bought a Samsung 2343BWX Lcd monitor (i know I know TN isnt the best for graphical design but im not rich), the color profile that came with the monitor is defective and displays everythign in a deep yellow tint, Ive tried using samsungs Natural Color Pro monitor profiling software but it results in a really ughly profile that is too dark and has a blueish tint to it.
    Samsung's support isnt much help (no sprise there) and I cant afford a spyder or eye-one hardware calibration tool at this point.
    Does anyone have or know where I can get a good color profile for this monitor? You have no idea how much I would appriciate it.
    Thank you in advance for your help
    All The Best

    You have a few choices....
    1.  Use the generic monitor profile supplied with your monitor, the one that came with it when you bought it.  This will be generic, and will not account for drift, and probably won't be all that accurate.  But, at least it should be in the general ballpark since it represents a cross section of a grouping of similar monitors.
    2.  Try one of the presets that came with your monitor. I don't know what presets or controls are offered with this monitor, but I would shoot for a color temp between 5000K and 5500K, a 2.2 gamma, and a reasonably dim brightness setting.
    3.  Find someone who can do a hardware/software calibration, either a friend, or someone who will do it for a fee.  This will get it right once (if they know what they are doing), but will not account for drift over the long term.
    4.  Search online and see if you can find some visual calibration target and do it by eyeball.  This is usually not easy to do, and probably won't be satisfactory, but you can give it a try.
    5.  Buy a calibration package and do it yourself.  You should probably calibrate an LCD monitor at least monthly (I do mine weekly).  This is the best way to go, at least if you are serious about accurate color.  And this doesn't guarantee that your monitor and print will match.  For that, you need to calibrate your printer for each type of paper you use, or rely on generic printer profiles.  Then, you have to make sure you set everything up properly and utilize all your profiles properly.  Sorry, but this is all part of the price you have to pay if you want good color.The fee involves money for the proper tools, education on how to use them, and experience in applying them properly.

  • How do I get an SVG file to the same color profile as my illustrator file (U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2 and what would be the correct color profile for printing on a shirt?

    How do I get an SVG file to the same color profile as my illustrator file (U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2 and what would be the correct color profile for printing on a shirt?
    Thank you.

    dadanas wrote:
    Hi Simcah, I have a similar problem. Have you found out any solution?
    thanks, dan
    You need to ask the printing service provider. Dealing with color totally depends on the printing process involved and of course the machines used.

  • Kodak Professional paper color profiles for Epson Stylus Photo R2880

    Is there a color profile for the Epson Stylus Photo R2880 for Kodak Professional paper (lustre)?

    A member of the Brand Management Group responsed. There is no color profile for my printer at this time. However, I was given a profile to try and it worked very well.
    Thank you Brand Management Group.
    Henry

  • Factory color profile for LSN133BT01A02

    Hi
    I've deleted everything from ~/Library/ColorSync/Profiles (don't ask why, I'm stupid). Now when I try to calibrate monitor it says "The factory color profile for the display cannot be found"
    Can I get default factory profile somewhere? MBA 13" Mid 2013
    Terminal command
    ioreg -lw0 | grep IODisplayEDID | sed "/[^<]*</s///" | xxd -p -r | strings -6
    says I have LSN133BT01A02 Color LCD screen.

    Seems the profile was /Library/ColorSync/Profiles/Displays/Color LCD-933C106C-08BC-09AA-F750-C2A74A119DEF.icc

  • Color profile for export in Aperture 3.0.3

    Hi
    What is the best color profile for exporting in aperture 3.0.3 (specially, if the pictures are used for stock). I normally use the export version TIFF or PNG original. Is ADOBE 1998 or sRGB or something else? In Photoshop I have sRGB.
    Thank you for your advice.

    Colour Profiles don't have a best one. It is a way of matching colour produced by one type of device so that it is reproduced by another type reasonably well. Allan

  • Selected color profile for new images from "clipboard" is wrong in CS6

    I have given up trying to find the answer to this myself.
    Steps to reproduce:
    1. Take a screenshot of something in your web browser (macintosh CMD+SHIFT+4) to the clipboard.
    2. Select File > New from the menu. Clipboard should be the selected Preset.
    3. Notice how in CS6 the color profile under "Advanced" is "Display" and NOT "sRGB" — in CS5 it is sRGB.
    4. Paste from the clipboard into your new document and get the color profile mis-match warning if you are in CS6.
    It is either not picking the color space of the clipboard properly like it will in CS5, or I am missing something somewhere.
    Nothing I do in an attempt to fix this is working. I have sRGB set as my default profile in color settings, and nothing I do changes this setting for the "Clipboard" preset.
    I am getting sick of forgetting to manually select "sRGB" every time, opening up a new document sized to my clipboard and then getting the color profle mismatch warning when I paste in the clipboard contents!
    I take so many screenshots as I develop websites this is a CONSTANT problem as I am constantly creating new documents from the clipboard to check alignments, zoom in to get color samples, and many other reasons.
    Message was edited by: DrunkCyclist

    That helps a little. It explains why "Display" is selected when I create a new from the clipboard in PS.
    The ColorSync profile from a screenshot opened in the Preview App shows up as "Color LCD" in the inspector.
    So, I assume what is happening in PS is that the new document is being created in the working color space and my clipboard contents don't match that and therefore causes the warning?
    I could see getting a warning if I create a new document from the clipboard in PS and it embeds the "Display" profile within it, and then I try and paste something which has an sRGB (or other) embedded profile, but I was assuming the new document from the clipboard contents would have the same color profile as the clipboard contents.
    I just don't get why I get a warning when I create the new document and the very first thing I try and do is paste the clipboard contents into said document.
    However, when I select "sRGB" from the dropdown list instead of "Display" in the PS dialogue box it does not give me the mismatch warning.
    Although the warning does say my source and destination document are both using the "Display" profile but my working space is sRGB.
    The more I think about it, I may have just checked the "Don't show again" box in CS5 if I ever had the same issues and therefore never dealt with that again!
    I am going to go read as much as I can about the color profiles in PS. I used to deal with this a lot as a print designer but not so much anymore working in UI design. I only really look into these issues when I get weird color shifts on saved files and things of that nature.
    Thanks for taking the time to explain some things!

  • Converting to CMYK color profile (for print) in raw format

    I am looking to self publish a cookbook in lightningsource. They need the photos in cmyk format. When is it best to convert to this color profile from rgb?
    I have bridge CS5
    What I'm doing currently:
    I click on my .arw image file and select "open in camera raw" which brings me to an editing screen. At the very bottom is says rgb, and 240 ppi
    I need 300 ppi at least and cmyk color.
    Now I know how to change these things in Photoshop, but I was taught that editing it in camera raw in bridge is better to preserve quality for print.
    Should I just edit it in raw and then convert to 300 dpi and cmyk color in photoshop? Or is there a way to do this in bridge? Whats the difference? Any advice will help, trying to make my pictures look amazing in print

    Correct me if I misunderstood anything!
    You are on the right track except for the ppi story. The ppi settings just are a figure expressing the amount of pixels stored in 1 inch, without the width and height figures of the image itself you can't do much with it and just changing this figure is not changing the total amount of available pixels.
    For instance create a new document at 300 ppi and use the international paper size A4 (21 x 29,7 cm). The amount of pixels is 2480 x 3508 (roughly the result of an 8 MP dSLR.
    Use the image size option in PS and be sure to not resample (meaning creating new pixels or deleting pixels to alter the original file size that is 24,9 MB). Now change the amount of pixels to whatever you like. If you increase the number the width and height decrease, and vice versa. Yet the amount of pixels and file size stay at 2480 x 3508 and 24,9 MB.
    But with the specs of wanted width and height for the end result of 300 ppi starts making sense.
    For instance you have a image at the size of a post stamp and an image at international paper size (A4) and both are 300 ppi. The small post stamp size would be in cm about 2 x 3,5 while the A4 size has about 21 x 30 cm width and height.
    So you can imagine having both needed to be printed at the A4 size in 300 dpi (printers work with dots, hence they use dpi - dots per inch- and while not the same they both often use the 300 figure and stand for pretty high quality result) the A4 sized original will meet the wanted standards without problems   while the post stamp would have to be resampled to the new A4 size and when having still 300 ppi needed there would be a lot of interpolation (creating new pixels to match the new size) and this would often result in pixelated or worse quality print result, because PS has to use guess (albeit quit educated guessing) work to add more pixels that are needed to reach the new dimensions.
    ACR has the advantage to set the ppi by default at 300 but as said, as long as you don't alter width and height of the original it is just a figure without any significant importance until you know the complete specs for the output source.

  • Correct Color Profile for a 17" PB

    It appears the monitor profile on my PowerBook is not representing the correct color saturation on graphic files I create. It is set to the default Color LCD under the Displays Preference Pane.
    The problem first came to light after I submitted a post card design for my business to our online printer. We have processed many jobs through the same printer and haven't had any problems. Yet on this job, the design looked great on my PB but when I got the printed cards back they were way over saturated. This week I did another new design but this time I sent it to my designer to take a look at it first before I sent it off to the printer. And she said the same thing, the file was over saturated. So she corrected it on her calibrated monitor and I sent the file off for printing. I'm sure when I get the post cards back they will be fine.
    But my question is, how can I adjust the saturation on my PB and do so correctly. The display looks good to me and the colors look right. I have tried the Color Sync calibration tool with no success. And I don't have the resource to buy a hardware calibration device. So my questions are...
    Which Displays profile should I be using assuming the Color LCD is incorrect?
    Does any one have a Color Profile that they've created on the same PB as mine that has proven to been calibrated correctly?
    Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    there have been at least two versions of the pb 17" 1.67ghz, so to get another user's profile you'd need to say exactly which model you have, but age/setting variations mean it may still not be a good match
    i use a hardware calibrator, but even with a custom profile there are still problems, mainly because the displayed image is very sensitive to viewing angle, so even if calibrated it is still easy to get things wrong when adjusting an image
    you may be able to improve on the default 'color lcd' profile this way...
    if you open the display preferences, click on the 'color' tab, and then click 'calibrate' you can create a custom profile 'by eye', you may find this gives better results, make sure you do this after the pb has been left for a few minutes at your usual brightness setting and in the same light conditions you usually work in
    if your pb is the same model as mine i can give you a copy of one of my profiles for you to try

  • DrawImage takes long time for images created with Photoshop

    Hello,
    I created a simple program to resize images using the drawImage method and it works very well for images except images which have either been created or modified with Photoshop 8.
    The main block of my code is
    public static BufferedImage scale(  BufferedImage image,
                                          int targetWidth, int targetHeight) {
       int type = (image.getTransparency() == Transparency.OPAQUE) ?
                        BufferedImage.TYPE_INT_RGB :
                        BufferedImage.TYPE_INT_RGB;
       BufferedImage ret = (BufferedImage) image;
       BufferedImage temp = new BufferedImage(targetWidth, targetHeight, type);
       Graphics2D g2 = temp.createGraphics();
       g2.setRenderingHint
             RenderingHints.KEY_INTERPOLATION, 
             RenderingHints.VALUE_INTERPOLATION_BICUBIC
       g2.drawImage(ret, 0, 0, targetWidth, targetHeight, null);
       g2.dispose();
       ret = temp;
       return ret;
    }The program is a little longer, but this is the gist of it.
    When I run a jpg through this program (without Photoshop modifications) , I get the following trace results (when I trace each line of the code) telling me how long each step took in milliseconds:
    Temp BufferedImage: 16
    createGraphics: 78
    drawimage: 31
    dispose: 0
    However, the same image saved in Photoshop (no modifications except saving in Photohop ) gave me the following results:
    Temp BufferedImage: 16
    createGraphics: 78
    drawimage: 27250
    dispose: 0
    The difference is shocking. It took the drawImage process 27 seconds to resize the file in comparison to 0.78 seconds!
    My questions:
    1. Why does it take so much longer for the drawImage to process the file when the file is saved in Photoshop?
    2. Are there any code improvements which will speed up the image drawing?
    Thanks for your help,
    -Rogier

    You saved the file in PNG format. The default PNGImagReader in core java has a habit of occasionally returning TYPE_CUSTOM buffered images. Photoshop 8 probably saves the png file in such a way that TYPE_CUSTOM pops up more.
    And when you draw a TYPE_CUSTOM buffered image onto a graphics context it almost always takes an unbearably long time.
    So a quick fix would be to load the file with the Toolkit instead, and then scale that image.
    Image img = Toolkit.getDefaultToolkit().createImage(/*the file*/);
    new ImageIcon(img);
    //send off image to be scaled A more elaborate fix involves specifying your own type of BufferedImage you want the PNGImageReader to use
    ImageInputStream in = ImageIO.createImageInputStream(/*file*/);
    ImageReader reader = ImageIO.getImageReaders(in).next();
    reader.setInput(in,true,true);
    ImageTypeSpecifier sourceImageType = reader.getImageTypes(0).next();
    ImageReadParam readParam = reader.getDefaultReadParam();
    //to implement
    configureReadParam(sourceImageType, readParam);
    BufferedImage img = reader.read(0,readParam);
    //clean up
    reader.dispose();
    in.close(); The thing that needs to be implemented is the method I called configureReadParam. In this method you would check the color space, color model, and BufferedImage type of the supplied ImageTypeSpecifier and set a new ImageTypeSpecifier if need be. The method would essentially boil down to a series of if statements
    1) If the image type specifier already uses a non-custom BufferedImage, then all is well and we don't need to do anything to the readParam
    2) If the ColorSpace is gray then we create a new ImageTypeSpecifier based on a TYPE_BYTE_GRAY BufferedImage.
    3) If the ColorSpace is gray, but the color model includes alpha, then we need to do the above and also call seSourceBands on the readParam to discard the alpha channel.
    3) If the ColorSpace is RGB and the color model includes alpha, then we create a new ImageTypeSpecifier based on an ARGB BufferedImage.
    4) If the ColorSpace if RGB and the color model doesn't include alpha, then we create a new ImageTypeSpecifier based on TYPE_3BYTE_BGR
    5) If the ColorSpace is not Gray or RGB, then we do nothing to the readParam and ColorConvertOp the resulting image to an RGB image.
    If this looks absolutely daunting to you, then go with the Toolkit approach mentioned first.

  • Color profiles for I photo books

    Is there a desired color profile to use for printing books with i photo
    My images are currently adobe-rgb. jpegs brought in from CS
    When I print the images thru CS they look great.
    When i print them thru I photo book or the PDF they look very dark and muddy...and would assume the same of the book printing online.
    any ideas on how to get the best print.
    Is there a color profile availabe from the online book printers or are we just winging it
    Also tried converting one page to S-RGB Still Muddy / dark thru i photo book
    and PDF Print. And just fine thru CS
    Any Ideas??
    Thank you

    I guess I am going to throw caution to the wind and see what happens.
    Only one way to find out, Right
    Though I did go back and lighten my images. Also
    Ran color synch utility, which fixed 11 corrupt color profiles.(none of the 11 profiles pertained to i photo)
    I guess I am afraid to use pref setter,, to set the key embed color profile.
    Confused as to what that means??? Does that mean that all my CS Adobe-RGB jpegs will keep their color profile???
    Also implanted one image as an SRGB vs the rest which will all be AdobeRGB
    Oddly my color management in CS is almost Flawless. Yet, get me out of CS and I am completely lost!!!! Complicated stuff
    Toad, I did want to pass on that AdobeRGB 1998 is a much more robust color profile then SRGB especially when it come to printing on Epson. It might be worth experimenting with and if you really want to get into it there is also
    Pro photo RGB which is Huge color space, but a beast to work with
    Here is a link
    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/prophoto-rgb.shtml
    Will report back on my book
    TF

Maybe you are looking for