Dumb question: Could an SSD speed up STP?

I regularly use Soundtrack Pro on an early 2008 Mac Pro. My boot drive also has all my apps, but I record into a different internal drive. I'm wondering whether swapping that recording drive out for a SSD could speed up either/both recording and editing operations on files that average approximately 1.5 Gigabytes in size?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

David is on the right track here.
I've been playing with some mods for an early 2008 that wants very fast throughput. We've determined that an SSD system drive will allow the computer to access system and application code at 2-3 times the "normal" speed. Assuming that all processors are suitably tasked, the system should be executing those instructions at close to full efficiency. In most cases, the applications are working towards a reduction of data for output, so the only question remaining question is how fast do the storage drives for the output need to be? In some cases, a normal SATA drive may suffice. In other cases, SATA3 or a RAID may be required to round out the package,
Hope this helps.

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Might be a dumb question, but I am moving from 1st gen to iPadair; on Safari, 1st gen to delete apps/sites just visited, you could double tap home key and apps would appear on bottom and one could delete from there. How does it work on ipadair?

This may be a dumb question, but nonetheless, here goes:
I just moved from 1st gen ipad to new ipad-air. Great and happy! But, one thing I can't figure out how to do is to delete the pages/sites/apps that I have just used? For example, on the 1st gen. you could double-tap home button and past actions would come up on bottom of screen. I could then delete them one by one, to keep things cleaned up. Am I missing something here? Does it keep a log irregardless? Not the same as deleting history - at least didnt' work for me.

Close apps and not delete apps.
1. Double tap the home button to bring up the multi-tasking view
2. Swipe the app's windows upwards to close
3. The app will fly off the screen

Using the USB port for an external HD dumb question

OK. Forgive a possibly really dumb question here...
My external HD has a USB 2.0 interface and I hooked it up to the USB port using a cable that came with an old USB 1 hub I'm not using right now.
My dumb question is this: is there such a thing as a USB 2.0 cable? Or are the USB cables all the same?
Also, how long should it be taking to transfer 12.1 GB of data (about 9,000 photos) from my external HD mounted on the AirMac base station to my MBP? There are still 48 minutes left and it seems an awfully long time for 12.1 GB of data. That's why I was wondering if the cable could be an issue...
Thanks,
doug

I am suspecting now that my HD might really have been a USB 1.0 drive...
doug

Type of HDD in Edge E130 and question about msata SSD

I'm interested in thickness of HDD in E130. I read that in E125 was 7 mm HDD and there is troubles with 9 mm. So, is E130 similar to E125(E130 is next-gen of this type netbooks, but there is huge posibility that Lenovo Engineers decided not to change HDD type)? Or 9 mm hard drive will work?
Installing msata breaks warranty agreement, doesn't it? And i have some, maybe, obvious questions amout msata SSD(i've read about installing SSD in other Thinkpad notebooks), but I need some proves for Edge E130:
1)Speed is limited by SATAII interface?
2)mSata drive as bootable device will work?
Last questions are not such important, but i'll happy, if Edge E130/E135 users will share their experience
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I bought the E130 as a travel computer, so I didn't have to travel with my X220T - which is a tank compared to this little fellow. I have the 3358-8dg model of the e130 (came with free-dos but I bought an extra 4GB Ram to up the total to 8GB). The HDD is the usual 7mm think ones as expected.
I've had my e130 for 2 days now and I removed the HDD it shipped with and installed a 64GB mSata instead.
Link to image
I then installed Win7 with SP1 from a USB in UEFI mode (see this thread: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Windows-7-Discussion/Prepare-an-usb-thumb-drive-to-boot-windows-7-or-8-i... - installed Lenovo System Update 5 and installed all drivers and software along with all windows updates.
So, running only an mSata HD and booting from it is not a problem at all.
My windows experience index is 4.9 due to the Graphics: Desktop performance for Windows Aero.
The HD transfer rate is 7.9.
The exact model of the mSata SSD I installed is: Crucial m4 SSD 64GB, mSATA 6Gb/s (CT064M4SSD3)
I hope this helps.
Moderator note: images totalling more than 50k converted to links per forum rules: Lenovo Community Participation Rules Also fixed broken link.

Dumb question about browser dectection

I have a web application that looks awesome in IE but in Firefox it looks clunky and blocky. What I need to perform is a validation to see what browser the client is using. I have done this before on simple html pages javascript browser sniffing. Well it seems that I can't for the life of me to be able to get this working in Creator.
My web project is a Sun Creator Web application. My OS is Windows
Does anyone have any idea or references that you could supply to me?
The following code works in an html environment but in a jsp I cant get the different style sheets to work.
document.write("<link id="link1" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/WebDemoExtractor/resources/introductionFireFox.css" /> ");
U jave tried many variations of the following
document.write("<ui:link binding='#{introduction.link2}' id='link2' url='/resources/introductionFireFox.css'/>")
I have tried performing many variations with the the above and I have had no success.
Is it even possible to perform this function??
Thank you

jackiepanpan wrote:
Not a dumb question at all.
I think you mean how is it possible to view YouTube videos in Safari on iPad, right?
Basically, YouTube senses the browser you're using. Because Safari on iPad doesn't support Flash, YouTube delivers the movie in a format the iPad can play (like H.264, as a previous post mentioned). This happens with YouTube videos embedded on other web sites, too.
I hope this helps.
I was in an Apple Store a few days ago, and a teenage kid really wanted an iPad. His dad said, "but it doesn't play flash, so you won't get to see YouTube videos that you love." Kid said, something expletive deleted.
The son then picked up the iPad, and he clicked on the YouTube icon. Walked out of the store with it. Sales guy and I laughed. Made my day.

Okay, a dumb question, but need to know -

do I need to buy protection software like Norton or Malware Bytes for my mac? I thought Mac's don't get hacked.

No.
It's not a dumb question at all. Most people come to this site after they mess up their Mac. Don't install that junk, and you won't be coming here when you need to fix the problems it causes.
There will always be threats to your information security associated with using any Internet - connected communications tool:
You can mitigate those threats by following commonsense practices
Delegating that responsibility to software is an ineffective defense
Assuming that any product will protect you from those threats is a hazardous attitude that is likely to result in neglecting point #1 above.
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "clean up", "speed up", "optimize", "boost" or "accelerate" your Mac; to "wash" it, "tune" it, or to make it "shiny". Those claims are absurd.Such products are very aggressively marketed. They are all scams.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources.
Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
"Questionable sources" include but are not limited to spontaneously appearing web pages or popups, download hosting sites such as C net dot com, Softonic dot com, Soft pedia dot com, Download dot com, Mac Update dot com, or any other site whose revenue is primarily derived from junk product advertisements.
If you need to install software that isn't available from the Mac App Store, obtain it only from legitimate sources authorized by the software's developer.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iCloud, iTunes, or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose:Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Java can be disabled in System Preferences.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
The same precaution applies to Adobe Flash Player. Newly discovered Flash vulnerabilities appear almost weekly.
Beware spontaneous popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > check "Block popup windows".
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but unsolicited popups are commonly used to deceive people into installing unwanted software they would never intentionally install.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever receive a popup window indicating that your Mac is infected with some ick or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
The same goes for a spontaneously appearing dialog insisting that you upgrade your video player right this instant. Such popups are frequently associated with sites that promise to deliver "free" movies or other copyrighted content that is not normally "free".
The more insistent it is that you upgrade or install something, the more likely it is to be a scam. Close the window or tab and forget it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. Most of these attempts are pathetic and are easily recognized, but that hasn't stopped prominent public figures from recently succumbing to this age-old scam.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind.

This may seem like a dumb question, but

How do I keep my hard drive from filling up with junk? I just purchased a new 13" MBA with 256 GB. My old MBP eventually got bogged down with so many duplicate files and applications and just plain junk. I was never sure what could be safely deleted.
I guess my real question is how do I know what is safe to delete, which things are duplicates and can I delete a disk image after I install something? Also, how do I know if I've completely deleted an application that I no longer want (i.e. any hidden files or whatever). I want to keep my new MBA as clean as I can and not load up my hard drive space with anything unneccessary.
Thanks!

not a dumb question
just be proactive about where everything is saved to and backup important things via external USB HD
Clear out itunes often of duplicate unwanted things, keep a folder or two on your desktop or otherwise to keep most of your working files.
If you drop an unwanted APP to the trash and delete same, its gone unless is a sys. modification application.
Keep your pictures in a known file or two. Same goes for documents, music, and videos.
frequently clear out your browswer of cookies, cache.
Buy a APP on the APP STORE that locates all duplicate files. It lets you choose to delete them or not.
such as:
http://macpaw.com/gemini
there are many such apps.

Where do I enable HTML view for Mozilla Firefox. Sorry if this is a dumb question.

No answer that I have found online has been any help to me!

It's not a dumb question, but I have a follow-up: is the problem that Firefox is presenting pages with little or no stylization, looking mostly like text with some random images instead of having their usual layout?
Does the problem affect secure sites (address starts with HTTPS instead of HTTP)?
If so, there may be a problem with how Firefox is set up to work with secure sites. Because many popular websites combine content from multiple servers, if you made a security exception for a site, that may not get you all the elements of the page, such as style rules.
More detail if it's relevant. If this is off track, could you describe the problem in more detail?

Probably a really dumb question...but so am I

Just bought a brand new iMac (specs below). Old one? Panther (3.10.9), 1 GHz, 2 RAM, 80 GB space)
Keeping the old iMac. A perfectly good machine. Only reason I bought a new one: kind of maxed out regarding my primary use of a computer...home music recording. Just needed more space, power, speed, etc.
Question: Before I call the phone company (our ISP: ATT), want your advice.
Can I just hook up two computers (both iMacs, one old, one new), on the same telephone line (a land line...this would be the only phone line coming into the house), and have them work? Or, would the ISP, the telephone company, charge us more for doing this? Meaning operating two computers on the same line simultaneously. (Forget about wireless here. Don't use it, not sure that I will anytime soon.)
Why couldn't I just plug in the other computer into a phone jack in another room in the house and have it work while the other one, in another room but using the same phone line, is running at the same time? Both simultaneously. (Sure, I'd need a modem for each machine going into the ethernet port.)
As I said, possibly a dumb question. On the other hand, I'm pretty dumb too.
Thoughts, advice, suggestions? Greatly appreciated.

It's probably connecting to a broadband modem (DSL or ADSL). That device allows you to get the high speed internet going on using the same phone jack in your house, and connects to the computer through an ethernet cable.
"Old school" or dial-up modems are traditionally built into the computer or plug into a USB port, and then use a normal phone cord (same thing other phones in the house use). Aside from being super slow, your line is usually busy and you're unable to make/receive calls when you're online.
I'm guessing you're connecting to a broadband modem (since you mentioned ethernet cable). With that in mind, the answer is yes, you can hook both those computers up so they can be online at the same time. What you need is what's called a router or switch, and they're not very expensive. One line connects to your broadband modem, then you have 3-4 jacks that you can plug additional computers in (so they can all use the connection at once).
If you want to have the machines in different rooms but don't want to run wires everywhere, look for a wi-fi router, which will usually give you a few jacks for connecting computers that don't have wi-fi but will also let you do a wireless internet hookup for your new iMac, the old one (if it has wi-fi), and even iPhones if you have 'em.
Apple has two products that might work for you. The Airport Extreme Base Station has super-fast wifi plus jacks for plugging computers in via ethernet, and even lets you share a printer. http://www.apple.com/airportextreme/ The Time Capsule does all that, and also has a built in hard drive (you can get with a 1TB or 2TB hard drive), which is great for using Time Machine. We've had a Time Capsule since they first came out and love it - super easy to set up, and all the backup stuff just happens without having to worry about it.
Hope that helps!

Probably Dumb question

Hey all, this is prolly a dumb question but I could not find anything in the owners manual about the onboard lan for the K8nNeo platinum2. I was just wondering why there are 2 RJ-45 jacks. In the manual it says to hook up either one. And would there be any benefit to hooking up both of them to my router? Thanks in advance.

I think you misunderstand the Aperture process. When you export, you use presets which can resize an image to anything you want. There is no reason to resize inside Aperture as that is contrary to the non-destructive editing philosophy (ie, we don't change the master image for any reason, and if we need to for some reason, we will create a copy in another format first). Resampling down unavoidably reduces the information the image. It is certainly destructive.
If you create an export preset with the settings you want, including resizing, that will do the trick.
Alternatively, you an export the image to the size you want, then re-import into Aperture (and stack with the original if you want). That, at least, doesn't require photoshop.
One of the points of Aperture is the avoid the need to resize, or edit destructively in any way, until export. I can't think of any good reason not to follow Aperture's paradigm on this.

Maybe a dumb question, about which power connectors to use, but....

This may sound like an incredibly dumb question, but here goes anyway....
I upgraded my system a few weeks ago, and will be slapping in a new ATI X850 Pro AGP card in a few days. My current graphics card is a p.o.s. Radeon 9550, so it doesn't have its own power connector or even a fan. My PSU is a dual-rail Antec model, and I'm wondering if it should matter any about how many or which devices I have connected to each power cable set. My psu came with cables to attach, only 2 of the 4 though are the 4-pin molex - the other 2 are pci-e power connectors I believe. Should it make a difference which or how many devices I connect to each cable? For ease of plugging in, I believe my DVDRW and CDRom are using 1 cable, and my ide drive and floppy are using the other cable. Also, I have a pci fan and a case fan running off 1 or the other. I'm likely to jump the power cable for the video card off the one the hard drive is using, unless someone has some suggestion to offer to the contrary.
If it makes a difference, can anyone recommend how they would have them connect?
My list of devices to plug in would be:
1)IDE HDD
2)Floppy
3)CDRom
4)DVDRW
5)Case Fan
6)PCI Fan
7)Video Card
Thanks for any thoughts! SAB - you seem to be the man on builds.....any ideas?

Well, I put the new card in and connected it on a cable with the optical drives. Also, I had unwittingly connected my cdrom on the same ide channel as my hdd , so I changed that so both optical drives are on the secondary ide.
So far, so good. 3dMark03 jumped up from 3300 with an overclocked Radeon 9550 to 10570 with the stock Radeon 850 Pro
I wish I could find some local source to purchase additional molex cords for my Antec SmartPower 2.0 psu, though - I've got 2 more 'outlets' just sitting there on the psu doing nothing, because the other cables are for pci-e, and I'm not using pci-e...... If I could buy some additional molex cables to plug in like the ones that came with it, I could have the vid card on its own cable....

My ipad mail is synced to my iMac mail account. On iPad, I can only see my inbox and sent messages. I can't see any of the folders I have created on my iMac. How do I do that? Probably a dumb question, but I know there's a lot of smart people out there!

My iPad mail is synced to my private email account, which I organise on my iMac. On iPad, I can only see inbox and sent messages folders, not any of the other folders in my email account I have created on my iMac. How do I get iPad to show my other folders? Probably a dumb question, but I know there's a lot of smart people out there.

If you select a mailbox, you should get an Edit button (easier to see in landscape mode). Clicking the button will provide you with check circles for the messages. You also get Delete and Move buttons at the bottom. Check the messages you want to move and then navigate to the mailbox you want to drop them into. I think as long as you can navigate to a mailbox you can move the messages to it.
In the Mac Mail application and probably Outlook on the Windows side, you also setup rules to move messages to specific mailboxes. If the mailboxes are stored on the server, then you can have the sorting done on the server and they should appear that way on the iPad. If your later messages do not show up, you may need to have the iPad app pulled down more messages until they are all showing.

I am looking at buying a MacBook Air over the Pro mainly for the 12 hour battery. Just wondering if battery is compromised by upgrading to 8mb and upgrading to I7 Intel dual core. I am not very tech savvy so apologies if dumb question

I am looking at buying a MacBook Air over the Pro mainly for the 12 hour battery. Just wondering if battery is compromised by upgrading to 8mb and upgrading to I7 Intel dual core. I am not very tech savvy so apologies if dumb question

If both computers were configured identically, then they would both lose the same amount of battery life with respect to the same starting configuration - comparing apple to apples. I don't know how much the added RAM, etc. would reduce battery life, but it would be less for both models.
Battery life is a tricky subject because most mfgr.s like to suggest as long a life as possible, but often do so under a set of conditions that are not common to most users. Apple is no different. Their computers do have good battery life, however. But not likely as long as what is in the ads for the typical user.

Dumb question re video card

I bought a radeon 9800 pro graphics card to upgrade my 64mb. stock card and before installing noticed that the new card has one DVI port and one VGA port. the box says it runs dual displays, right now I have dual CRTs running but want to run two flat panels soon.
so the dumb question, can I convert the VGA to DVI with just a cheap adapter and run dual flats without buying an expensive converter for the second VGA port?

Hi Prankster,
you wont be able to get dual digital support from the 9800 ...sorry.
Of course, you might be able to *physically connect* two digital flat panels to the card but one of the monitor connectors will be recieving an analog video input signal from this graphic card.
To get true dual digital support from ATI you would need the 9600 or 9700 Pro graphic cards.
Hope this helps !
Cheers,
Chris Chamberlain

Two really quick/dumb questions!

Hi All,
I have just bought a new Mac Mini and hooked it up to my Samsung 55 inch TV via HDMI and everything seems do be working great.
My two dumb questions are:
1: where on the new OS (I had a Mac 5 years ago and things have changed) is the top "Finder" bar and "disc" icon to save files?
2: In Safari I do not seem to have a tools bar where I can for example open another tab for a new web page.
Hope you can help a nubby :-)

You are running a Mini so it might be that the screen resolution is not exact for your display. I have used a Mini with a conventional display but not HDTV. You might need to go into the settings for the TV to set the screen resolution to accommodate the mini's capabilities. Sorry that I can't offer more on that score; when I use my Sony Bravia HDTV it is with the iPad2 and HDMI and I have encountered no issues. Perhaps someone else on the forum has better insight into the Menu Bar problem on the Samsung as the principal display.

Dumb question: Could an SSD speed up STP?

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