Email black screen
Hi Everyone,
My iphone will not display my emails on any of my accounts (4). The screen when black while I was viewing my mail this morning. The home page indicates I have unopened emails, but when I attempt to view them, the screen stays black except for the AT&T indicator bar at the top of the page. All of my other apps are working fine, so I don't think this is a hardward problem.
I did a search in this forum for similar problems. Found one, dated for Jan, 2010. However, no one replied to the question. I am really hoping someone can help me with this. Thank you in advance for your replies!
I'm about to file a bug report about it. I probably should've done it months ago, but never got around to it.
But for me, it happens very reliably when you rotate the screen from one orientation to another, then back, in fast succession.
And the only "fix" for it has been to reboot the iPhone.
This has been happening for me on both 3G and 3GS and 2.x and 3.x.
Similar Messages
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It will play in iTunes but just gives a black screen when I try o email. I get an error message when I try to upload. Any Ideas?? I've already reinstalled OS X
Not sure if this Term is Relevant towards an iPhone but, my iPhone won't Post unless if it's plugged into a Charger.
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For the last severl weeks I have had difficulty launching sites from within my email messages. Thinking that I may have gone into "Settings" and set something wrong, I decided to reset to the default settings. So, in "Settings" I chose reset everything. Now, when I turn my iPad on all I get is a black screen with the picture of a white apple and a white line below it. Nothing else works. What can I do? Do I need to send this back to Apple to be restored?
You will hopefully be able to restore it yourself. It sounds like you erased all constant and settings rather than resetting all settings. But I'm basing my theory on the fact that you are seeing the Apple logo with the white progress bar (the white line) on the screen. That's what you would see if the software was being reinstalled and then it stopped on you. If that is what happened, you need to restore again and most likely need to use recovery mode.
You can read about recovery mode here.
Recovery mode - Apple
However ...... If you are seeing the white line when you turn the iPad, let it go for twenty minutes or so, before you try restoring again. There is possibility that the software is still be installed and it can take a while before you see that white line move at all indicating that progress is being made.
Frankly, I don't think that the software is still being installed, but since you didn't say specifically how long the iPad has been like this, it could just be that the software hasn't finished installing yet. If you know better - meaning that it's been like this for hours or longer, then you do need to restore the device. -
while in email today, the computer began flashing. I had to turn off with button. When I turned it back on, I got the apple icon and the moving loading wheel. It would turn for about 60 seconds and then stop. I turned off again. I now have a black screen.
Hi wiesenruth,
If you are having issues starting up or booting your computer, you may find the following articles helpful:
Troubleshooting: My computer won't turn on
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1367
Mac OS X: Gray screen appears during startup
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2570
Regards,
- Brenden -
when i'm in email, after about 10 seconds, i get a black screen.....10 seconds later, it returns me to the general screen....anyone have this before??? thx
I don't know if you've got this solved or not but I started getting this too about a month ago. I just had it happen again about 10 minutes ago. I was on a website & BAM black screen, I don't hear the usual "winding down" of the hard drive though, so the HD sounds as though it's still working properly AND there's a weird hue around the edges of the screen so it's not pitch black as though the monitor turned off. Once I force shut down then I get the true pitch black screen before it turns back on again.
Also, every time this happens & I re-start the hard drive tends to be working very hard doing something in the background for at least 2-5 minutes not sure why? -
I have some photos I was sent Via email and I would like to save them on my phone but when I saved them when I try and look at them in the camera roll they are black screen or it just says JPEG. Can some please help me on how to fix this??
I have some photos I was sent Via email and I would like to save them on my phone but when I saved them when I try and look at them in the camera roll they are black screen or it just says JPEG. Can some please help me on how to fix this??
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Black screen when opening email
Hi, for some reason, all of a sudden, i have a blkack screen everytime i open my email. You can hear it downloading the mail etc, but i cant see anything...
My little boy was playing with my phone the other day, mmmmmmm
Anyway, i have tried pressing the screen, tapping it, moving etc, but i can not get rid of this black screen.
Any ideasTry resetting your iPhone by pressing the home and sleep buttons until you see the Apple logo, ignoring the slider. Takes about 5-15 secs of button holding and you won't lose any data or settings.
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Black screen when I go to Email.
What's up with that?There is another thread that I just used to fix this problem. While on the black screen, hold the sleep and the home button at the same time. The next screen that shows up gives you two options, ignore them until they disappear and the apple symbol shows up on the screen. release the two buttons and wait. This will force close the email, but will not harm or erase any data on your phone
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My Ipad 2 has tried to shot down now for 3 hours, just before I could not open Itunes and App Store but Email and other apps was working. them I tried to shot down but I have now for now for more that 3 hours black screen whit turning wheel. any I deas what too do
See Here for
iPad Basic Troubleshooting
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3274
Unresponsive iPad
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3281 -
My iMac 8.1 (10.6.8 ) was slowing down and had recurrent permissions problems, mostly with Java. I backed everything up, and then re-installed from time machine. Now all I get is a black screen which says I need to reboot. Power+D gives me a hardware error message: 4 MOT/1/40000003: HDD-1336 or HDD-1327. When I reboot from the OSX CD and start disc utilities everything checks out OK. When I reload 10.5.2 from the OSX CD everything seems to work OK and no more permissions problems. But then I loose all my email and safari stuff. Anyone have any ideas short of going back to my old PC?
DonM. wrote:
Hi
Thanks for the help. No point in fooling around with it any more. Will I be able to use it as a monitor if I get a mimi mac?
Cheers. Don
No unfortunatley it's too old, you are referring to Target Display Mode which became avialble in 2009, your 2008 needs to have the HD replaced. I'd still do that if everything else is OK or you can simply buy a new MM and display or even a new iMac or an Apple refurbished iMac to save money. -
Satellite X200-191 = Laptop turns on 4 seconds, black screen,humming sound
_*Satellite x200-191*_
Core2 Duo T7700
*Original:* 1024MB + 1024MB Memory 667MHZ / 512MB VRAM *Replaced:* Kingston Kingston KVR667D2S5/2G (I have this 2x)
*Original:* 200GB + 200GB Harddisk Drive (4200RPM) SATA *Replaced:* Only 1 HDD left, other one I will get back in 2 days.
17 WSXGA+ TRUBRITE TFT Screen
HD DVD-ROM Drive
56K Modem / Lan
W-Lan (802.11 A/G/N)
1/3MPixel Web Camera
Bluetooth
Microsoft Vista Home Premium 32 Bit
_*My Problem:*_
I take out the battery, plug it in the power. Charging light turns on.
I press the power button, power led turns on. Followed by the hdd led turn on, which blinks real quick, stays on for 1 second, then turns of. The power led stays on during all the time.
2 seconds after the power button, a fan starts blowing, while the above mention hdd led blinks for 1 second, 2 seconds after the fan starting to blow, it turns off.
We are now 4 seconds farther, pretty much, everything stopts, except a very tiny minor humming sound. (I just left it on for a couple minutes, sound remains, nothing happens.) (While writing this all I left it on for 10 minutes, the laptop heats op a bit, the adapter gets hotter, but still only the very tiny minor humming sound.)
+So my laptop works for 4 seconds, wont give any screen (black screen) wont load even BIOS. What could be wrong ?+
_*Fixing?:*_
Ok so I left the laptop after a couple of months, being told it was dead, just getting it dusty. (Read history to get this)
But since last week, I figured its getting dusty, I never opened a laptop before, why wont I try doing that.
_+*I replaced the Memory modules, Slot A and B , both memories , same time, one at a time, all possible ways.*+_
_+*Since I have only 1 HDD, I used it in both slots. Looks to no difference. Using NO HDD, I do NOT have the very tiny minor humming sound!!!*+_
I followed a guide [http://www.irisvista.com/tech/] to open my laptop, to see what is inside.
Finding no lose plugs, but did find a certein oil, and some white paste.
Closing the laptop, to try it out, I accidently screwed a couple wrong screws in the laptop, piercing the top cover of my laptop, but no chips were hit during this :P (Yeah, Im a bit to strong, I should have figured using force for a couple of the screws wasnt the best thing I could do, but now i know :p)
*SOOO* My question, while I wait for the extra old HDD (getting it in 2 days). (Probably making no difference)
What could be wrong, more precisly. Should I like try taking out the video card or something ?
Is there something I should do with some soldering?
Any tips/tricks that could work, wether to fix the laptop, or to narrow down the problem , to a small part which i could replace ?
BEST REGARDS
Danny Visser
The Netherlands
_*History:*_
Not sure if this is any important, but just to let you know, if intrested what happend all to the laptop ;)
I bought the laptop at Shape Computers (in the netherlands) Asking this laptop mentioned above, with 2 things changed. I wanted more Memory, and I wanted windows XP. The shop told me this was possible. They bought me the laptop in, they replaced the Memory with the kingston memories. They installed windows XP instead of the Vista. They laptop did work at this very moment. So I bought the working laptop, with 1 year warranty.
With the folders extra given with the laptop, I was able to increase my warranty from 1 to 2 years for free, so I did.
After probably a couple of weeks I noticed that the laptop was getting real hot, after longer usage. But according to the manual this was normal.
I did use the laptop for gaming, but also 2 months for a gaming study. So I did take it several times to school in a backpack.
After not using it for school anymore I reinstalled Windows Vista 32 BIT
At a very point not sure when precisly I noticed that it wouldnt turn on (probably same problem as I have now) but I was really relaxed about it, tried it later, and somehow it did work again. This happend perhaps about 5 times in total.
Knowing something was wrong, I took it back to Shape Computers. They checked it. (Not showing me what they did to it) But they told me I had nothing to worry about.
After about 2 years I actually sold this laptop to my mom. She used it a couple times (she is like realy noob, just about computers in generally, not even knowing if she should double click icons or not) She took it with her a couple times on trips, and they after about 2 years and 2 months ... this problem happend.
My mom knows a guy, and a friend of that guy, works alot with broken laptops, which told me that the problem was the _+motherboard+_.
I decided to take it back to the shop. After a long progress being down there (about 6 to 8 weeks)(Me going to the shop like 15 times). The shop managed to tell me it was the motherboard. That the motherboard couldnt be fixed and that a new one would be way to expensive.
+(I Known at this very point, after getting the motherboard back, that this laptop was not screwed open yet. The screws were still brand new.)+
Funny information(not for me), during this period of about 8 weeks, they actually told me lies like ... I left a message at your voicemail, I DONT HAVE A VOICEMAIL ... sorry for the caps but im still xxxxxx about those lies.
So still believing the shop ... my laptop is gone .... dead ... but then since last week, I started looking into the laptop myself ...(Fixing)Ok, the company did not reply at all ... I ended up sending another email. And they did reply with a automatic message. Now weeks later still nothing more then that auto reply.
While I was waiting I contacted another guy that knows alot from these laptops. Getting a new part would cost me about 300 euros, and thats just the part, not even replace time.
Considering the toshiba help I have gotten ... (pretty much none) in these last years.
I declare my laptop dead. And decide at this very moment, that I (ofcourse) never will buy toshiba hardware again.
I might pay a bit more at my Dell computers, but the support in the last 8 years with 5 different computer systems and 1 laptop. Has been perfect in compare to the toshiba support I have gotten in the last 3 years, which just fails.
Thx tho all you guys for the replys.
Danny Visser -
Lenovo Ideapad U410 - no screen output or black screen, and just out of warranty
My kid has been using this laptop and loved it, but mentioned a while ago it was difficult to power it back on after turnned it off. However she managed to work around by putting it in hibernate/sleeping mode only, or recycling the system many times (by holding on power button to force it off). The issue was black screen (no Lenovo logo) but computer was on. I didn't pay much attention because she can still make it work, and I was too busy. Last week, there was a windows update (again) and the computer was forced recycle. It never comes back alive again. The same, computer is humming, but no any visual output on screen, just black. Tried novo button, bootable USB, external monitor, all no use. Check the warranty, just over by 2 months! Asked the service store, to fix will cost at least $200-$300 to replace the motherboard! It does not make sense when spent a bit more could buy a new notebook. But my kid liked it and it does not make sense to throw it away either, when it still looks pretty new and only being used very lightly (schoolwork only). It is sad, especially the brand has been gainning my trust. I probably don't expect a "good" solution either from Lenovo or community, but just throw my frustration here (only because have just registered the account and there is no support email or web form). If Lenovo want to make customer happy, the part shouldn't be so expensive for a short-lived laptop! Just by the way, there are many posts about Ideapad's black screen issue, and many blameed window 8.1 for the compatibility problem. It made me thought so too because the initial sympton was exactly the same. The best thing you should do: don't waste time on fixing the driver or config, get the hardware replaced as soon as you could when still in warranty. If not so lucky, probably think it twice next time when you want to buy a Lenovo.
Welcome to the Lenovo Community !
Sorry to hear of all the problems. Here are a couple of things to try........
First, try a reset of the BIOS. The procedure can be useful in resolving some hardware conflicts which your computer may have. Just do this......
1. Unplug the charger / adapter.
2. Press and hold the Power Button for 15 seconds.
3. Plug in the charger / adapter if needed and power up the system to see if the problem was resolved.
If you are comfortable working inside your laptop. try this........
Try the reset again with the battery removed.
If the reset didn't resolve the problem then you may have a failed piece of hardware preventing the bootup. Remove the battery, hard drive, optical drive, memory, wireless card and bluetooth if it is installed. Now try to power up the stripped laptop. With all the hardware removed you should have lights come on and it may possibly beep since there is no memory installed. If the laptop is showing signs of life start adding hardware one piece at a time starting with a memory module and boot up the laptop. If it doesn't power up try the memory in the other slot. Also try the other memory module separately in both slots if two are available. If it is still showing signs of life add another piece and boot. Do this for each item until it doesn't power up again. The last piece of hardware installed is your problem part.
The link below is for your model's Hardware Maintenance Manual. The manual will explain how to remove the various hardware items. When working inside your system please follow all precautions and recommendations that are noted in the manual.
http://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/ideapad_u310_u410_hmm_1st_edition_mar_2012_english.pdf
There is also a Lenovo Training video that will show you how to remove the various items. These are listed in the FRU section.
http://service.lenovo.partner-management.com/content/CourseWarePublic/12769/player.html -
Guide to Upgrading to Windows 8 on the T540p (+fix for brightness/black screen on wake)
Hello all. I recently received my new T540p running Windows 7. Although I probably would have qualified for receiving Windows 8 recovery media from Lenovo, I went ahead and did the upgrade myself since I had a copy of Windows 8 laying around (and because I'm impatient). I'm fairly tech-savvy and expected the process to go smoothly; boy was I wrong. I decided to write up this little guide after having a thoroughly annoying time upgrading in the hopes of saving someone else out there from the hassles I underwent.
NOTE: The most troublesome part of the whole process was figuring out why the screen brightness was no longer adjustable and the display would not turn on after waking from sleep (black screen) after upgrading to Windows 8. Skip ahead to step #9 if that's the issue you're having.
Step #1: Make a bootable recovery disc or USB drive
This is important in case anything goes wrong during the upgrade or you decide you despise Windows 8 and want to bring back Windows 7. The T540p comes with a recovery partition in the hard drive (like most laptops nowadays I assume) which allows you to completely wipe your computer and reset it to its original factory state (the same as when you first received your computer). This is normally done by restarting your computer and hitting the enter key to interrupt normal startup and selecting the recovery option from a menu. I wrongly assumed that I would still be able to conduct the recovery after installing Windows 8, but for some reason after upgrading I was unable to start a recovery from the recovery partition. Thus it's important to create a set of recovery discs or a recovery USB drive yourself BEFORE starting the upgrade. Lenovo includes a program which makes this step very easy; see this page for details: http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/documents/ht004960
Step #2: Uninstall certain programs BEFORE upgrading
I skipped this step because I forgot about it. I haven't noticed anything adverse (aside from the brightness/display problem which I assume is completely unrelated), but Lenovo does suggest to uninstall certain programs before upgrading so it's probably wise to do so. Here's the list:
- DisplayLink Core Software
- Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver
- Lenovo Solution Center
- RapidBoot
- ThinkPad(R) Bluetooth with Enhanced Data Rate Software
See this page for details: http://download.lenovo.com/lenovo/content/windows8/upgrade/think/notebook2_en.html
Step #3: Download and save wireless drivers to external media BEFORE upgrading
After upgrading, I discovered my wireless didn't work and thus I couldn't connect to the internet. I wound up downloading the wireless driver to my phone and transferring it to my T540p. You could also use an ethernet cable to connect to your wireless router or cable modem. But if you have a USB drive, CD, DVD, external hard drive, whatever, save yourself the hassle and download the wireless driver ahead of time. You will need to know the brand of the wireless device (Intel or Realtek); look it up in your email receipt or from the Windows Device Manager under "Network Adapters". Mine was Intel. After figuring out the brand of your wireless device, go to the T540p drivers page here: http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/products/laptops-and-netbooks/thinkpad-t-series-laptops/thinkpad-t54... Look for a drop-down menu that says "Component" and select the option "Networking: Wireless LAN" (LAN, not WAN!). The page will refresh to show only the wireless drivers. Select the Windows 8 64-bit driver that matches your brand (I'm assuming all T540p laptops are 64-bit. If I'm wrong, please correct me). Download that sucker and put it to on the external media of your choice to use later!
Step #4: Begin Windows 8 upgrade
You'll obviously need to have a valid Windows 8 key or purchase a copy of Windows 8 for this step. I had a valid Windows 8 key that had been used on an old computer which died (hence my new Lenovo), so I reused it. This requires Windows 8 to be activated by phone which isn't nearly as scary as it sounds. We'll get to that later.
There are two ways to do upgrade: use a Windows 8 installation DVD or download a web installer. I had a Windows 8 key from a previous web installation and went with downloading a web installer. If you have an installation DVD, just insert it and get started. If you prefer to download a web installer, go to this page: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/upgrade-product-key-only I think product keys are tied to either Windows 8 or Windows 8.1, so select the one that you have a key for and download the appropriate one. If you're not sure, you may have to try both.
During the upgrade, you will be asked whether you want to download updates (I assume this updates the installer) and afterward you will be asked to enter your product key. For some reason, when I downloaded the updates my product key would get rejected. I just restarted the Windows 8 installation, skipped the updates and then my product key was accepted. I don't know if this is tied to the fact that I was reusing a Windows 8 key (again, which had been used on a now dead computer) but if you find your key getting rejected then you may find skipping the updates helps. If this doesn't work and you're using the web installer, try downloading the other web installer (e.g. if you're using the Windows 8.1 web installer and find the key is rejected even after skipping updates, your key may actually be for Windows 8 and you should try downloading the Windows 8 web installer).
The installation itself should be a fairly straight-forward process. There are lots of guides online in case things go awry. If you have any trouble or errors, you should hopefully have made recovery media for worst case scenarios where you need to start from scratch.
Step #5: Install wireless driver & connect to your router
You should now have Windows 8 up and running on your system, but no wireless. Now's the time to use that driver you downloaded earlier. Install it and you should now have wireless access. Connect to your router and get online so we can start some badly needed updating!
NOTE1: your touchpad/trackpoint/keyboard experience will be especially funky at this point. That's because the drivers for them haven't been installed. Normally the touchpad won't be active while you're typing, but because the drivers haven't been installed you'll notice you'll accidentally move the mouse or click while typing (e.g. when entering passwords). Not to worry: this will go away when we install the Lenovo drivers now.
NOTE2: your function keys won't work (adjust sound, adjust brightness, etc.). That's also because of the drivers.
NOTE3: you may notice your screen's brightness may not be adjustable even from the Windows menu. Again, that's also because of the drivers. Hang in there!
Step #6: Activate Windows
Now that we're connected to the interwebs, it's time to activate Windows. If you're completely new to Windows 8, here's where you go:
-move your mouse to the upper right corner then move down
-select "Settings"
-select "Change PC settings" at the bottom
-select "Activate Windows"
This is where you'll enter your product key. As I've said before, my product key had already been used on an old, now dead, laptop. Reusing a key requires you to do a phone activation. If you find your product key gets rejected, go to the phone activation option and follow the instructions. An important note: at some point you will probably be asked how many devices/computers you installed Windows on. The correct answer is "one"; if you accidentally give another number, you'll need to call again and start over. (I'm assuming you're not doing anything illegal. As far as I know, there's nothing wrong with you reusing your key so long as you're no longer using the old computer Windows 8 was installed on, e.g. when that old computer no longer works. But if you're trying to install Windows 8 on multiple computers and you can afford to buy a new copy of Windows 8, shame on you. It takes a huge team of coders and support staff to make a product like Windows happen; help them pay their bills by purchasing a legal copy of Windows 8. Students can even get a copy for less than $70 with proof of student status. http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Windows-8.1-Pro-for-Students/productID.288769600...
Step #7: Install Lenovo-specific updates and drivers
I typically hate all the crapware and bloatware companies include with new laptops, but Lenovo does make some which are useful. Their system updater should take care of downloading the rest of the drivers you'll need instead of having to download them all individually (with one exception: the graphics drivers may require a separate download later). Download the system updater here and keep running it until there are no more updates to download: http://support.lenovo.com/en/documents/ht080136
Step #8: Install Windows Updates
Load up Windows Update and start installing. If you're completely new to Windows 8:
-move your mouse to the upper right corner then move down
-select "Settings"
-select "Change PC settings" at the bottom
-select "Update and recovery"
-click the "Check now" button to check for updates
-click the "View details" text link to see the available updates
-click the "Install now" button to begin installing immediately
(Yes, the Windows 8 interface is dreadfully unintuitive unfortunately. Watch some Windows 8 tutorials on YouTube if you find yourself having trouble. Already looking forward to the next version of Windows!)
You'll also want to download the Windows 8.1 update if you installed only Windows 8 (the update to 8.1 is free). The download is available from the Windows Store.
Step #9: Install graphics drivers (if you're having display problems: unadjustable brightness, black screen on wake from sleep)
As I stated earlier, this was the most frustrating part of the installation process. My T540p came with only an Intel HD Graphics 4600 card, but it seems some others include a dedicated NVIDIA card. Whatever updates were installed with Lenovo's System Updater and via Windows Updates didn't seem to do the trick. I even updated the driver with the latest from the Intel website to no avail.
The solution, at least in my case, was simple: go to the T540p driver's download page and download the graphic card drivers appropriate for your system. Go here: http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/products/laptops-and-netbooks/thinkpad-t-series-laptops/thinkpad-t54... Look for the "Component" drop-down menu and select the "Display and Video Graphics" option and download the Intel and/or NVIDIA drivers appropriate for your system. (I have no idea what the Intel Wireless Display driver is for, so I avoided it thinking I don't need it)
BONUS Step: Go to ninite.com to download commonly used programs
Shameless plug for one of my favorite websites. It lets you pick from a list of commonly used programs, then downloads and installs each of them all automatically (and skips all toolbars/extra junk downloads). Makes getting started on a new computer a breeze!Hello Yolanda,
a) I noticed that I can´t install MediaCenter on Win8, but just on Win8 Pro.
b) My problem is, as described, that installing "MediaCenter" on either "Win8 Pro" or "Win8.1 pro", though the "Media Center" key is accepted,
which I once 2 years ago downloaded on ANOTHER "Windows 8 Pro" computer, for free as it was a gift of Microsoft at that time - You could reserve = get up to 5 Media Center licenses per "Windows 8 Pro" computer for later use
on OTHER "Windows 8 Pro" computers - but never used ( i.e. NEVER USED FOR ACTIVATION ),
but after the first reboot, I am running "Windows 8 Pro with Media Center" WITHOUT LICENSE, as shown in the system screen.
Neither my "Windows Media Center Key" nor my "WIndows 8 Pro key" is then accepted to change the situation - I mean the keys I entered just before during the installation process of "Windows 8 Pro" and "Windows Media Center".
I am shure that I did not use the "Windos Media Center" key, as I have a list of personal keys I got for free from Microsoft, and I marked those 2, I used for other "Windows 8 Pro" computers.
So fact is, that with my brand-new computer, 32 Gigabytes of RAM, 4 Cores, "Win8 Pro" installed, I am forced to avoid the installation of "Windows Media Center", though I got valid licenses.
So your answer was not quiet helpful, as it does not change anything.
Sincerely
Rolf -
Black screen after login / after sleep
Hoping somebody can help, I've spent like the last two days straight at the genius bar without success. When I boot up I see my profile and the guest, it boots as normal (not the delayed boot with black screen others have mentioned), but then I log in, see my desktop, icons, and then the screen goes black.
If I let it sleep for a few hours, when I wake it up the screen is also black and there's nothing I can do except hold the power till it shuts down.
In both cases I can tell the computer is still on because the backlit keyboard stays lit.
I've tried resetting nvram, smc, deleting the library cache file, doing a is reinstall without wipe, and I only have one partition/HD so it's definitely the default boot disc.
I can boot into safe mode, and occasionally boot up regularly after being in safe mode for a bit.
I had the display replaced due to a physical defect just before this happened, but I also got 10.10.3, which I know has caused graphics glitches for other people.
Hope you guys have some ideas! Thank you!Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" (AV) software. The usual answer is "no." That answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions.
It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to take control of it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. AV software is not intended to, and does not, defend against such attacks.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't been checked for security by Apple unless it comes from the App Store, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has taken far too long to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. Those lapses don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, not machine behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial AV or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It can be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices. -
Satellite U500-1E0 - Webcam shows only black screen
Hi everyone,
I have this problem, my webcam doesnt work. It has a blue light on which indicates that it is running but it only displays black screen. I've tried updating software, uninstalling it, reintstalling again but nothing helped. I even downloaded a new driver from Toshiba website but nothing.
Please, does anyone have any kind of solution to this problem?
My laptop is Satellite U500-1E0
Thank you
Email: [[email protected]]Hey,
If the webcam shows just a blank screen I could imagine its just a wrong webcam setting.
On Toshiba website I did found a useful article I think:
[How to change the settings for the integrated webcam if the image is very dark or black?|http://forums.computers.toshiba-europe.com/forums/ann.jspa?annID=59]
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