Erase zeros in a cluster

Hello, i have a 1D array with a cluster with 12 elements. The ten first elements are doubles and the two last are booleans. I know this cluster has zeros in his initial positions due to a pre-process. What i want to know is how to delete them, i mean, finally i want a 1D array with a cluster of 12 elements but with non zeros. All the initial positions with 10 zeros (because the 10 doubles) must be delete. My problem is that i can't convert this cluster into an array because it has different data types in it, and i don't know how to do it. Any help will be aprecciate.
Thank you all!
Attachments:
Captura_problema_cluster_zeros.PNG ‏35 KB

Ok, thank you and sorry about my mess, im still learning but you're helping me.
I'm confused about array and cluster because outside the loop, the context help says that is a 1D array (and i can use the array palette on there), but inside the loop is just a cluster and i can't convert it into an array because the different data types i think. Is that correct?
This cluster contains 10 names with a lot of double values written in each "name", isn't? My final aim is to delete the first values (which are zeros) so, the final result must be a cluster which first elements are no-zeros.
This is because this cluster is going to be an input of a biomedical processing and when the cluster arrives to that box an error jumps saying that the input is empty (HRV Statistics). The box from which the cluster is built says that the first elements of the cluster are going to be a zeros values due to his algorithm (ECG Features Extractor); so that is my problem, I want to delete or move the cluster to the left so finally the first elements were no-zeros.
Guess.vi of paul_cardinale is helping me. In that vi the for loop ends when all the values of the cluster are > 1E-06, that's great; now i need to move the cluster to the left so the first elements were >1E-06. Can i use a "delete from array" outside the loop in which array input was the cluster (because outside the loop i can use it like an array) and the lenght the number of the iteration? Maybe this works...
Again, sorry and thank you.

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Did you already try the steps in this article?
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Perhps I did not make myself clear (or you misread a verb or two).
I did read your link,but it does not clarify the technical design of this software.
The Erase button lets you "Zero Out All Data", but data to me is a file (whether or not it is readable in the directory of not). Whereas Free Space can be either virgin territory or trashed files with the directory info stripped clean. So why do you say that Zero Out All Data would include virgin disk space when there was never data there ?
Also if Erase>Zero Out All Data "writes zeroes to every byte on the drive", and projects an erase time of 13 hours, then why does it estimate 2 days 9 hours when I choose Erase Free Space>Zero Out Deleted Files? (Which further confuses the reader with this Apple description: It writes zeroes over the UNUSED space in the disk.) (My capitalization for emphasis). Yes, parts of it are CURRENTLY not being recognized, but it IS filled with data (as opposed to the virgin space being filled with no data).
So you can see why I am confused.
And though you may be right, I alwatys ask. "Would you bet your child's or your mother's life on your answer?"
That's why I left it an Open question for the moment ... hoping to also snag an Apple Moderator.
Thank you for your help though.

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Hi. Variations on this topic have been posted many times
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FOR SUGGESTION: See last paragraph...
MY PROBLEM:
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MY SUGGESTION:
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How usnig manuplate the Import and export Key word.

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HI ,
For IMPORT Keyword :---
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HAVING INSTALL TROUBLE? Large list of suggestions/info/solutions in here.

This thread is about installing Leopard and includes information related to install only - not running Leopard after install.
It includes information about preparing to install, and some stories of successful installs using a variety of methods. Feel free to add your own story of success.
It also includes some workarounds/solutions to a few install problems I've seen.
Here's my story:
I've been researching before I do my own leopard install on a dual 2.5 G5 10.3.9 system.
This forum is helpful, but it would be nice to see some solutions compiled into a single thread, so I've assembled a few things I found while poking around for a couple days. Nothing formal, and I have very little technical expertise - these are mostly copy/past from surfing and a couple insights I had during the research.
Everyone's computer rig is different. No single solution works for everyone, and its possible that all this info may prove useless to some, but at the least it is something to read/learn from until Apple puts together help articles.
There's very little analysis of what's wrong & who's to blame, just a bunch of stuff that might help when installing Leopard, so here you go:
Macworld article advising/describing how to prepare BEFORE installing leopard.
http://www.macworld.com/2007/10/secrets/tcoleopardupgrade/index.php?pf=1
A free 26 page freebee teaser of a $10 125 page downloadable "book" on how to prepare for install
http://www.takecontrolbooks.com/samples/TCoUpgradingLeopardSample-1.0.pdf
Webpage for the downloadable book (I have no affiliation with the author & am not attempting to promote him)
http://www.takecontrolbooks.com/leopard-upgrading.html?14@@!pt=MW-EXCERPT-TCUL1
this poster has helped with a couple post install bugs & airport issues
http://discussions.apple.com/profile.jspa?userID=103923
An Apple discussion thread on preparation ideas
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1208202&tstart=315
Here's a couple websites that might provide helpful info
http://macfixit.com/
http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/leopard/index.html
A thread I put up that lists DVD drives posted by users who are experiencing "problems" with their DVD drives.
Accurate or not, useful or not, just a list of people wondering if their DVD drive is to blame (or not).
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5719301#5719301
*Here's my own distillation* (accurate or not) of some pointers/ideas/suggestions -- all found here -- that relate to overcoming "problems" related to installing Leopard.
1. Do everything you can to prepare for install with any info you can find here or on the net (backing up, learning about & choosing install type, preparing install destination, checking hardware/software, etc etc)
2. After putting in the install disc, allow DVD test - if it fails return the disc for another
- installing with a disc that fails the test is a common theme in a number of threads here.
3. Restart holding down the C button
- forces a start from the DVD
4. Burn a copy of DVD disc to standard thickness DVD -R
- Some have reported certain DVD drives won't read it. Perhaps due to how thin it is.
5. Try choosing to install just the base operating system, no fonts, no extra applications, no extra languages
- someone posted the base system may be on layer one (most readable by all DVD drives) of the DVD install disc
- layer 2 (some drives might not be able to read 2 layer dvd well) may contain everything outside of base OS install
6. Remove all but stock apple ram
- this is inconsistent solution, but has worked for many
7. Install with another mac's dvd drive via firewire target mode (detailed below by someone else)
- if your dvd drive won't read/result in a successful install, maybe another one will.
- put dvd into another mac's dvd drive
- restart that mac holding down the T key
- connect it to your mac & launch the install disc on the firewire target mode mac
8. Erase and zero the hard drive you're going to install to - if partitioning, be sure to format correctly for machine
- users say it takes more time, but makes sure you have the disc formatted correctly & provides a better "environment" for the install
*A few person observations/opinions (accurate or not)*
1. Keep it simple:
- Installing to a apple ram only machine with a clean, zeroed, correctly formatted hard drive is the easiest thing for the Leopard installer to do.
- Installing to the opposite environment (lots of non-apple software, interface hacks from 3rd party programs, ram that might have un-noticeable glitches, dirty DVD drives, hard drives that are over 60% full etc.....) makes it more challenging to achieve a successful Leopard install. Even with that, hundreds of thousands (2mill copies sold) have probably had successful Leopard installs with the "update" or the "archive & install" methods.
2. Where do you want to spend your time?
- After reading the time investment from users that have posted about botched installs -- Sometimes it takes a lot less time to backup, verify backup, erase, zero the disc, format, install Leopard, install all programs, install all program updates & transfer all user info and libraries -- and do that once, than to correct a botched install over & over & over.
3. I've done both archive & install and erase & install. Do whatever works. From what I've read though, the Leopard DVD install disc appears to have some strict tests/parameters and if they aren't met it won't successfully install, so putting the odds in your favor might be a good idea.
*Now on to some successful install stories/methods/pointers:*
---------------backup, erase, zero disc, fresh install (remember to verify/test the backup)---------------------------
I just got Leopard and I backed up all of my data, erased the hard drive using Disk Utility with the zero all data option, I installed Leopard, installed all of my applications and copied my data back over without using the migrate manager. So far, I have not had one single problem with Leopard on my MacBook. Everything is running smoothly, So I highly recommend erasing your hard drive with Disk Utility using the zero all data option, installing Leopard, install your apps and check for updates for each application, and then copy your data from your backup. I have a close relative who is a Mac Genius for one of Apple's retail stores (for 6 years) and he says that everytime there is a new OS release, people have all kinds of problems because they did an Upgrade install rather than the process I described above. Yes, it's time consuming but it will save you a lot of trouble later. Apple should strongly recommend doing an erase and install rather than just upgrading. I think it would solve a lot of problems and prevent a lot of headaches.
-------------Erase & Install method vs upgrade method-------------------------
Have installed Leopard on both my computers. On the MacBook I did an erase and install and it has worked flawlessly. On the iMac I originally did an upgrad install that went pretty well, but I was having a number of minor issues like many of the posts here. After doing TimeMachine backups for two days I decided to do an erase and install on the iMac and then use the TimeMachine backup to only restore my data. Since doing the the erase and install on the iMac I couldn't be happier. The iMac is running like new and the TimeMachine backups restored flawlessly. Note: I manually restored the files from the TimeMachine backup on the external drive. Now TimeMachine is doing it's first backup on the "new" iMac and has recognized the old TimeMachine backup and is just adding to it. Of course the computer name and user names are identical to what they were before doing the erase and install.
-------------------Install via upgrade method (with good preparation)--------------------------------
For those of you who may be hesitant about installing Leopard on an older Mac this may be encouraging.
I installed Leopard onto a Rev B 12" PB (1GHz 768 MB RAM). Prior to installing I verified the Macintosh HD and did an extended hardware test from the PB install disc. I used the upgrade method to install Leopard as I did from Panther to Tiger on the PB and from Jaguar to Panther to Tiger on my G4 iMac. FileVault was enabled.
The install took 2 hours to the minute from clicking on Restart in Tiger to logged in to Leopard. 28 minutes of this was taken up by the install DVD verification process. You could skip this, but having read all the posts on these boards about defective DVDs I let it run. The install took a long time to calculate 'time remaining' and eventually gave this as 3 hours 52 minutes, although as I've said, it was less. There were periods of several minutes where nothing seemed to be happening - no hard drive or DVD drive activity - but I resisted the temptation to intervene. There were especially long pauses at 1:42 and 13 minutes to go. The 'about a minute' took 17 minutes during which time my fingers were twitching.
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-----------Installing from a DVD COPY of the install disc-----------------------
I copied the Leopard disk to a blank, double sided DVD. The copied DVD happily started, performed an archive and install without a glitch, and now I have Leopard up and running.
---------------Installing with firewire "target disc" method & how to use disc utility to aid install------------------------------------
ATTENTION EVERYONE- you can run disk utility without having a system installed. This should be your first step in trying to fix the problem!
Boot off of your Leopard or Tiger disk by holding down the "c" key at startup. When you are prompted with the install screen, instead of installing, go up to the menu bar and select the "utilities" menu, and scroll down to disk utility.
There are many different things you can try with disk utility. There are a few things you should try first before taking a dive and erasing your entire disk.
1. If you click on your Hard disk or volume, at the bottom of the window a bunch of general information about your drive will pop up, such as size, format, etc. One of the last things told about your drive is its S.M.A.R.T. status. This is basically a protective measure for you, so you can check and see if your drive is doing alright physically. This isn't completely foolproof, as your drive could still have problems even if it isn't reporting it through the S.M.A.R.T. status. But if your drive is reported as failing, then you can be sure your hard drive needs to be changed. Otherwise, move to step two.
2. By clicking on your Hard disk or volume, you can also repair permissions and repair disk. If you are having problems with your install or problems after the install has already been done (such as freezing on the blue startup screen), you will want to run both of these. If volume errors are reported back as unfixable, you may want to think of trying to salvage your files (if you don't backup) by purchasing an external firewire drive, installing a system on it and pulling your files from your internal hard disk onto the firewire drive. If all problems are corrected, then go ahead and try the install again.
3. There is also a tab at the top of the disk utility window that says erase. Here, you can wipe your disk totally clean. Typically, you can't wipe your startup disk clean when you are booted off of the harddrive, because erasing requires that you unmount the disk, in which you can't unmount the startup disk, since the OS is running off of it. Only if you have multiple hard drives or a boot disk (such as leopard or tiger) can you erase your original startup disk. So if you have no further options or do not care about your existing data, go ahead and wipe the disk clean. Also make sure the disk is formatted in Mac OS extended (HFS+). From there, you can go ahead and try the installation.
Here's some more info on disk utility, and some other ways to check disks through single-user mode-
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Besides disk utility, there are some other ways of getting the install to work. One of the simplest ways is to use target disk mode. This is for those of you who have more than one mac, preferrably a desktop and a laptop (otherwise you'll have to move both desktops to the near vicinity of one another.). It requires you to hook the computers together using a firewire cable, and allows you to mount the harddrive of one computer onto another. This is a great tool for transferring large files, diagnostics, and bypassing installation problems. This would probably be a solution for anyone who installed Leopard on one computer in their house and got it to work, but couldn't get it to work on another computer (the OP). I've also heard that it bypasses the minimum requirements needed to install Leopard (min. 867 mhz processor). The procedure requires that (with both computers off) you first hook a firewire cable between the intended computers, by plugging one end into a firewire outlet of the first computer and the other end into a firewire outlet in the second computer. You then start up the computer that had Leopard successfully installed on it (or the one that didn't fail during installation). Once it is fully booted and at the desktop, hold the "t" key on the keyboard of the other computer (the one that failed the installation) and start it up. Continue holding "t" until you see a firewire symbol bouncing around on the screen. You should then see the drive mounted on the first computer as a firewire drive. You will be able to access everything on the harddrive as normal. You can forget about the computer with the firewire symbol bouncing around on it from this moment on. Now, put the Leopard install disk in the DVD drive, hold the "c" key and restart the computer. It will boot off of the install disk, as normal, but now you should have the option to select the disk of the other computer in target disk mode. Choose the disk and start the installation. Then cross your fingers!
More information on target disk mode here-
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58583
If none of these options work, then report back what happened after you tried each of them, and we can try to solve the problem on a case-by-case basis.
-------------Install to an external partitioned firewire disc---------------------------
I used my 1000 mhz APS partitioned G4 Cube to install 10.5 on an External APS partitioned Firewire Disk. (If you attempt to install from a GUID partitioned disk like the Intel MB Pro, it requires the External disk to also be GUID...). That installation was a simple "Install" procedure. No problems.
------------Install with 2 hard drives method, cloning & import from previous machine---------------
After reading much here and elsewhere I opted to do a clean install followed by an 'import from previous machine'
1. Carbon Copy Clone your 10.4 disk; this will act as the backup you should be taking anyhow and the source for your import.
2. Test your backup (you do test your backups on occasion right?) boot into your newly installed copy and look around, you should find everything works as it should, if not check your copy options and try again.
3. Disconnect your backup/copy, insert your 10.5 media and do a clean install, configuring as you may (there is a good amount of space to save in printer drivers and alternate languages).
4. After you've finished the install you will be given the option to import files from another mac or mounted volume, attach your backup, import it; select what you want, I wanted all files but you could choose to take this as an opportunity to clean up, 132 GB of data took about 2 hours to walk through on my MBP.
5. I am running from this now and am quite happy.
6. Keep your 10.4 backup copy for a couple of weeks just in case, create a new backup set with time machine?
YMMV but enjoy.
-------------if your destination drive to install on doesn't show up right away-----------------
I have a fix for you. This was brought up in another thread, and I had the same problem. The solution is so ghetto, but it really works. Here is what you do:
When you get to the select a destination screen, go to the utilities menu and open up Disk Utility. You'll notice your hard drive is there, but it's missing the Mac OS X partition. This is the trick: wait about 10-15 minutes, and come back. Your partition will now be showing. Simply quit Disk Utility and return back to the installer. It should work from there.
--------------If having prob w/ dual layer disc---------------------------------------
I did a successful custom install by removing every single install package other than "base system". My prior attempts had always kept the Printer Driver package but removing the fonts, languages and X11 install packages. Removing the Printer Driver install package finally did the trick.
The Leopard install disk is dual-layer. My PowerBook G4 1Ghz Titanium has a single layer DVD drive. The basic Leopard OSX install package is on a DVD layer that is readable by older, non dual-layer drives; the other "accessory" Leopard install packages(i.e; printer drivers, X11, language) are on a DVD layer not accessible with older DVD drives. The Leopard install program incorrectly assumes everyone has a dual-layer DVD drive and subsequently "chokes" on the install when trying to install packages from the inaccessible DVD layer. This is how I ended up with repeated "EXCLAMATION!" ....."could not validate the contents of....." errors.
-----------1 users solution to exclamation mark on install problem-------------------------
I got a giant exclamation mark when installing on my iMac too. Turns out there was some trifling problem with my hard drive. Here's what I did to fix it:
1. Boot from the Leopard DVD.
2. Select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu once the installer starts.
3. Click the drive you tried to install Leopard on.
4. Click Repair Volume.
5. Brew a nice hot cup of tea.
6. If it finds anything wrong it will attempt to fix it and will display a message describing the problem.
7. Quit Disk Utility and install as normal.
This wont necessarily work for everyone as there are many things that might cause the exclamation mark to appear.

I'm not really sure what method that person was talking about. I just read he had a successful install so I posted it.
But I'll hazard a guess
1. copy your entire drive to a backup drive
2. boot into that drive and test it out - make sure its a flawless backup, it works, and the hard drive has no problems
3. eject that drive, disconnect it and reboot into the leopard install dvd
4. erase your main hard drive using disc utilities on the leopard install dvd -- you've made a backup, made sure that backup was good, and disconnected it so it's currently safely disconnected from the leopard install you're about to do. Also, on the hard drive you're erasing and installing leopard on to, many people recommend "Zeroing" it as well as erasing it. That option is part of the erase function in disc utilities on the leopard install disc.
5. do a clean install of leopard
6. follow step 4 from that original post exactly as that person described to do.
7. read the rest of what they said
That's pretty much it. With the backup/erase/clean install/import/ you pretty much get everything you need exactly the way you want it with very few things missing -- and you've done this over a clean install. Plus that poster did mention that you can select what you want to import from your backup hard drive.
It sounds like its a "clean install" method that gives you control via "import from machine" option in the installer. Control over what parts of your "old mac" you want to import into your "new leopard mac".
Hopefully that helps. It sounds more involved, but its actually pretty quick and provides you with a perfectly save backup in case anything goes wrong with the leopard install.

Creating a bootable Lion install disc/disk and using it

Hi all,
Below is a copy of a method ds store posted for creating a bootable Lion install disc. Some questions:
1. Is this a polished final version of the process, or are there other steps which could/should be added?
2. Are there any disadvantages to going this route instead of installing directly onto a Mac?
3. After creating a Lion install disc/disk via this method and using this saved dmg to install Lion on a Mac, will it set up the Mac exactly the same way it would by downloading/installing directly from the Apple Store (sounds like a "duh" question, but nothing would surprise me with Lion)?
4. Exact size of this dmg (in case I want to use a flash drive instead)?
I have been avoiding Lion, hoping it would shape up. I'm still not satisfied and will not run it on my main machines. (Of course ymmv; I'm not looking to be talked into or out of using Lion.) However, I am ******* (hmmm, I guess l-u-s-t-i-n-g is a bad word!) over a new Mac Mini, which will have Lion installed, with no chance of running SL on it due to the new hardware revision. Thus, I'm either going to have to make peace with Lion or forget about a new Mini. I guess I'll have to give Lion a try, but I still don't want to actually run it on any of my machines; thus, I want to run it from an external drive, playing with it as I have time/desire, leading to more questions.
5. Using the install disc/disk created above, will it set up Lion on a DVD, flash drive, or external HD exactly as it would on a Mac (Recovery Disk, etc.)?
6. How much space is needed on a destination disc/disk to install Lion?
7. Is it possible to boot from a different volume, mount this dmg, and install Lion from it?
8. Any advantages/disadvantages doing it this way (#7) as opposed to booting from the Lion install disc/disk created above?
9. Another method I'm thinking of using is to (after cloning my SL installation) actually install Lion on my MBP over my current SL installation (shudders violently ), clone it to an external HD, then erase/zero the MBP's HD and clone my SL install back to my MBP. Has anyone done this? Again, I'm concerned that Lion will do something goofy and leave some kind of footprint behind, like maybe messing with firmware; cloning my SL installation back to my internal HD would not reverse a firmware change.
10. Any constructive suggestions on anything related to any of these steps is welcome!
Yes, I've searched and read a number of responses, but I'm hoping much of the "discovery" phase is over, and there are some "solid"/refined answers by now. My bottom line is to be able to play with Lion without having to depend on it.
Thanks!
Backup Lion Bootable 10.7 Disk
Purchase and download Lion from the Mac App Store on any Lion compatible Mac running Snow Leopard.
Right click on “Mac OS X     Lion”     installer and choose the option to     “Show Package Contents.”
Inside the Contents folder     that     appears you will find a SharedSupport     folder and inside the     SharedSupport folder     you will find the “InstallESD.dmg.” This is         the Lion boot disc image we have all been waiting for.
Copy “InstallESD.dmg” to         another folder like the Desktop.
Launch Disk Utility and click     the     burn button.
Select the copied “InstallESD.dmg” as the image to     burn,     insert a standard sized 4.7 GB DVD,     and wait for your new Lion Boot     Disc to come     out toasty hot.
With this disc you can boot any Lion compatible Mac, andinstall10.7 just like you installed previous version of Mac OS X. Youcan even use Disk Utility's Restore function to image your Lion bootdisc image onto a external drive suitable for performing a cleaninstall on a optical-drive-less MacBook Air, or Mac mini server.

tjk wrote:
5. Using the install disc/disk created above, will it set up Lion on a DVD, flash drive, or external HD exactly as it would on a Mac (Recovery Disk, etc.)?
DVD: no, flash drive: if it's large enough, external hard drive: yes
6. How much space is needed on a destination disc/disk to install Lion?
Whatever Apple minimum requirements are.
7. Is it possible to boot from a different volume, mount this dmg, and install Lion from it?
possibly, never tried it, it is a dmg so it's a volume all to itself, except it can't install to the same media it's on and can only install to something formatted with GUID and a OS X extended format, like a flash drive or hard drive large enough.
DVD's can't be formatted with a GUID EFI partiton
8. Any advantages/disadvantages doing it this way (#7) as opposed to booting from the Lion install disc/disk created above?
Speed limitation of the media and bus your using, USB 1 is a slower than a hard drive with 7,200 RPM on a Firewire 800 port
9. Another method I'm thinking of using is to (after cloning my SL installation) actually install Lion on my MBP over my current SL installation (shudders violently ), clone it to an external HD, then erase/zero the MBP's HD and clone my SL install back to my MBP.
The problems come from installing Lion over a existing Snow Leopard setup that isn't quite pristine enough for Lions quirkyness, has tweaks or other software installed that breaks 10.7, requiring you to fix it.
You can try it, you've got the 10.6 clone to option boot off of and restore from.
Cloning back and forth is a performance enhancer, not a problem solver.
Ideally it's best to clone 10.6, disconnect, zero and install 10.6, same user name, then up to 10.6.8, then to 10.7, then install programs from fresh sources/copies and then files returned last from backup off the clone (no migration assistant or it brings trouble back)
This will ensure the best possible performance possible with the least trouble as everything is wiped and installed fresh. Only problem being your files it there is something wrong with them, which is easy to remedy to the cause as it's the only thing not pristine.
Once you've got a pristine system, then clone that twice, once for a immediate update other for falling back a week, two weeks or even a month back.
Has anyone done this? Again, I'm concerned that Lion will do something goofy and leave some kind of footprint behind, like maybe messing with firmware; cloning my SL installation back to my internal HD would not reverse a firmware change.
Firmware is hardware specific not OS specific, of course it's possible a old version of a OS won't work with newer firmware, like 10.5 for instance perhaps because Apple has dropped all work on PPC code.
10.6 and 10.7 are just fine with most all present firmware, however there will be a time where a new firmware update could disallow 10.6, likely when iOS X 10.8 Bobcat arrives.
10. Any constructive suggestions on anything related to any of these steps is welcome!
Yes, I've searched and read a number of responses, but I'm hoping much of the "discovery" phase is over, and there are some "solid"/refined answers by now. My bottom line is to be able to play with Lion without having to depend on it.
Cloning only clones the Lion OS X Partition, not the Lion Recovery Partition.
A comptuer that is Lion capable will boot off a media with no Lion Recovery Partition.
You need to create a Lion Disk Assistant USB which copies your Lion Recovery Partition.
It's in my post.
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16276201#16276201

EMac Freezes in Normal Start Up - OK under Safe Boot 10.3.9 or 10.4.11

In helping a charter school get its eMacs back running, one of these eMacs [(ATI Graphics w/32Mb VRAM), 1.25GHz G4, 37GB HD, 1Gb RAM, and whose SN = G8429CDSQJ8] is displaying very unusual symptoms. It simply has to be software or a very weird RAM or VRAM memory issue, but I am mystified as to whose since I found no Firmware Updates at Apple or ATI. Here is the gory story.
I had replaced its battery and added a 1Gb DIMM (About This Mac and System Profiler show this is OK). I repaired the HD from a “Gray Restore DVD that was shipped with these eMacs” (got a “No Repairs Needed” from this) and its Permissions from the DVD set of 10.3.x system SW, and initially did an "archive and restore" installation. This had worked fine for all the other 10 eMacs as had going up to 2 Gb RAM.
On re-start the eMac froze and refused to eject Restore DVD. I hooked up a Firewire Cable to the ailing machine and ejected the Restore DVD after starting the ailing eMac in Target Mode. After this, I started up in Safe Boot and updated the 10.3.x Restored SW to 10.3.9 using Software Update ... things seemed fine. So, I started up in normal mode, opened System Preferences to Accounts to make sure the Student account was under agreed restrictions. As soon as the Authentication panel opened, the eMac froze, needing a Power Button shutdown … it kept doing this, and it behaved itself under Safe Boot after each freeze. I installed YASU (from a CD in Safe Boot and have used for years on my home PMMD, dual 1Ghz G4, 10.4.11), which I understand is simply a group of Unix scripts under a nice GUI and had it do all the system and web browser tasks (i.e. crons, permissions, prebinding, swap filesetc) but saved the logs and their archives.
We were upgrading all the eMacs System SW to Os 10.4.11 (starting from a 10.4.3 "Black X" commercial system disk … so from a Safe Boot, I loaded the 10.4.3 DVD, started up from it, and did an Erase and Install, so all the SW on the drive is Apple’s own. PRAM was reset and amazingly, on this re-start, this eMac froze a few seconds after a App’s window opened. From a new Safe Boot, Software Update took me to 10.4.11 (I refused to allow Safari, iTunes and Quick Time update until it had also updated all the other security and Java (9 Javas of these in numerical order from SUD).
Under Safe Boot, I found I can open as many as 10 Apps or Utilities, flip between the windows … nothing wrong. After some thought, I used Activity Monitor, Disk Utility (to perform “Erase Free Space, 7X” and with Screen Saver’s Flurry at maximum in the Choice window, and this places the processor use at almost 100% (~70-75% user + ~20% system) … but this does not test much of the memory (couldn’t figure out how to do this). I kept things going for over 7 hours while randomly using Safari or Text Edit. But as soon as a Normal Restart is done and a second window opens (even Activity Monitor’s little floater), it freezes again.
The Web is full of symptoms that usually blame memory, but it seems hard to believe that the 1Gb DIMM would “know” when the system is booted Normal vs Safe. So, tonight, I am going to run Rember (v. o.2b) that I dragged off my PMMD … an have used it under 10.4.11 over the years.
BTW, contents of Trash after two (2) hard freezes are always the same system files [annex_aux, annex.db, filetoken.db, fonts.db, and qdfams.db]. The mention of “fonts.db” seems to suggest a font problem, but why … all are fresh 10.4.3 stuff.
It’s my understanding that Safe Boot allows ONLY Apple extensions and Apps to load and this is why it seems to me that the problem must be SW … somehow, somewhere.
Is there a utility that can list third party components? Does this make sense? In looking into the Preferences and Application Support there are Adobe, Macromedia prefs, fonts … which I assume came in w/ Safari since I have not added any 3rd party programs other than YASU, who tells you truthfully where its stuff is loaded
When back at the school, I plan to swap out 1Gb RAM DIMMs and/or replace the old 256Mb DIMM that was original. Also, plan to go back to the Restore Software DVDs (10.3.4 since these have more Apps that are needed): Erase (Zero Out Deleted Files) and Install to rebuild a “virgin” set of 10.3 after restarting. Then Check to see if Safe Boot is stable BEFORE trying to update to 10.4.11 (via 10.4.3 Black X).
However, if this does not make sense, I would be grateful for readers pointing out my errors and/or flawed plans.

Hi Cosmic (and, per my Southern US heritage, hope yawl are doin fine down under),
Firstly, thank you hugely for guiding me through this eMac puzzle. Your insight that under Safe Boot the ATI video extensions are turned off now has the symptoms I see matching a cause.
Last evening, I did an Erase (Zero out the HD, 1 pass) and a virgin , custom install from the eMac Media DVD that came with the machine; this took the system to Os 10.3.6, and it seemed to let me open more windows than two(2) for several passes, but it still froze, these times leaving no recovered files as a trail.
I decided to use only Apple’s Software Update, under Safe Boot, to sequentially load only system or Java UDs and not let Safari or any iApp stuff bring in foreign SW components(tis strategy caused by finding, last evening, strange troubles with the Font book not validating any font and it displaying most of these incorrectly. This font finding kept me thinking SW had to be the problem instead of heeding your and Alan Jones experience …
All well and good, and when I got to 10.3.9 with all the Java and Security Uds, I could open as many as 4 Apps, but the killer was always testing the “Flurry” screen saver … lots of video here. Yet in Safe Boot, I could open all the Apps in the folder and randomly switch between them with no issues.
Lot of driving chores today kept me from seeing your second reply till late this afternoon, but as I drove I remembered that on my now ancient Power Mac Mirror Door, 2x1Ghz, one of my partitions had 10.3.9 loaded with free Unix scientific SW and Xbench 1.1.3 and Cinebench 2003, both of which test video cards, etc. So, I loaded and made DVDs of these testing apps after running them on the PMMD in the 10.3 partition as well as my normal 10.4.11 main drive. Got them over on the eMac, checked to make sure its fonts were OK, ran the tests under Safe Boot, then saw immediate freezes under Normal Boots, and finally, logged into the Apple site and read your reasoning. Bingo!
I again checked the caps I could see and they matched your ID of them, still, even with a machinists mirror could not see the ones further in … called the school marm and told her we should consider this eM as nearly dead, use its internal organs (HD, RAM, ATA drive) and externals (Keyboards, cables) in our organ donor program. She’s agreed, so it’s a done deal.
So, tomorrow I’ll satisfy my curiosity and do the surgery to remove the innards and see if there is evidence of the caps … sure there will be. BTW, I made my living, till a good severance package induced early retirement , as a PhD level Materials Scientist/Elec Engineer (mostly in chip level packaging and several forays into flat panel electronic displays (LCDs and OLEDS(Orgainc Light Emitting Diodes)). As I looked at the circuit board, these electrolytics seem to be surface mounted, an unusual design even for its day, and I cannot imagine any “shade tree” electrician having much success trying to replace them.
Again, a thank you for your insight. I’ll just have to owe you a beer since I’m doubtful you would get one I’d drop along the seashore. Take good care … and without checking a map, I hope Brisbane is not being flooded.
drsax
PS I forgot to mark your and Allan Jones earlier replies as Helpful which they were ... just did so. Sorry for the oversight. Owe you both a beer for sharing your experience.

IMac G4 OS 10.5.8 booting issues, blue screen

I'm trying to remotely help my mom to solve a big problem with her iMac G4 (2007 vintage.) It's running Mac OS 10.5.8. Everything was fine until a couple of weeks ago when it started refusing to boot. It starts to boot, you get the Apple and then it continues on to the blue screen, and never progresses from there.
It WILL safe boot, and I've tried all the things I can think of... disabled login items, reset PRAM, used Disk Utility to check the HDD and repair permissions. But it won't boot in normal (non-safe) mode.
So I decided the only solution would be to archive and install Leopard again. I figured the hardware was mostly likely okay, since it would safe boot. She couldn't find her Leopard install disks so I sent her mine.
But the system won't successfully start up from the install DVD. It does read from the DVD and starts the boot process, but again it hangs at the blue screen and does not continue beyond that.
I am not sure what to try next... I suppose it's possible that there some bad RAM or something which isn't accessed during the more limited safe boot but is used during a regular boot and causes the hang. It seems like the HDD is probably okay since it consistently safe boots without a problem. What else can I try?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

The test as run from the original install-restore disc #1 should be accessible
when booted per instructions on the label. Usually, there's the method on how
to use the Installer (C key on boot) and also the other is there, on how to use
the same DVD to boot the Apple Hardware Test (perhaps Opt key.)
With an older computer, there is the chance the hard disk drive may be fading;
due to use and age factors. However, one could still (maybe) find information
on what else may be going on, IF the error and crash logs in the Console utility
could be accessed, then read through, by someone with technical knowledge.
The Console logs may be accessed if the computer can be started in SafeBoot.
And there are several, in there; some would not apply. Also, they're rather cryptic.
Sometimes, a section of a hard disk drive where the boot information is stored
could be damaged; or the Directory may be corrupted, so a third-party disk
utility on its own DVD or bootable volume can be helpful to correct that aspect.
Or to totally erase, zero, partition map and reformat the hard disk drive may do
to attempt to restore function of the computer to normal; while wiping user content.
A backup of content could be made; even a clone copy to an external, then that
could be transferred (via another clone, using Carbon Copy Cloner, etc) and if
the computer were wiped, that bootable clone could be moved back. Or, should
the internal drive be bad, the content of the computer can be put into a new HDD.
{The 'pizza box' iMac with the G5 PPC processor, had a few known issues in
certain models, some due to heat and other component failures; so the hard-
ware test may be helpful. So would an inspection of the power & logic circuits.}
Anyway, sounds like 10x the trouble at a distance, helping someone figure out how.
Good luck & happy computing!

My 5-year old iMac is freezing up and will not reboot unless it is turned off for an hour or so. What is going on?

After some heavy lifting ( backing up or working in several applications) the system will slow down to a crawl and then freeze. A hard shutdown and restart will usually not reboot it. I typically get a white screen with a floder with a ? mark on it, a circle with a line through it, an Apple logo with a spinning wheel for many hours (I let it go overnight once to no avail), or a simple white screen.   The disk checks out fine with Drive Genius and disk usility, from both the hard disk (when I can get it running) and from the Disk utilite and Drive Genius Disks.    I have erased (zeroed out) the disk and reinstalled Snow Leopard several times with all updates. Reparied permissions successfully. It runs swimmingly until I start loading up files and try to use them or tao back up to Time Machine on a Time Capsule.   It will then repeat the whole scenario.   Often, If I leave it shut down for an hour or two, or overnight, it will boot fine, even after all of the prior white screens.
I have taken it to the Genius Bar a coupole of times, and they have done a system reinstall and analysis to no avail.   Everything looks fine. Infact, ast time it had rested and while it did not boot before I left, it did fine there.
The only devices connected are an ethernet cable, bluetooth mouse, and keyboard. What's up?
I think this is a hardware not a software issue.

    BankerDad, let's see if we can change this device's behavior. Is there any physical or liquid damage on that device? Connect it to a charger to see if the charging battery icon populates on the screen. Keep us posted.
LasinaH_VZW
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OSX 10.5 Does not Recognize Login Password- Please Help!! This is insane!!

Ok, so this problem is incredibly annoying and has got me perplexed. I recently re-installed Mac OSX 10.5 for various reasons.I am running a Macbook Pro that is 2 years old apprx. I did the following steps:
1. Booted from Install DVD (authentic)
2. Erased/zeroed out HDD
3. Installed OSX 10.5 on the Drive. And OSX is the only OS on the computer.
4. I went through the set up, and created a login name and password. The password is long, like around 30 characters. This is the same password I had used before, on the same OSX 10.5 from the same disk with absolutely no problem.
5. I slowly typed each character, having wrote each character down and did it for both pass and verification boxes on the initial screen when you boot for the first time and set up the user account.
6. This was all accepted, and I finished the process.
Now here is the rub, the password does not work! It logs in to my user name automatically using, I assume, the password I gave. But when I go to install my programs again, and it asks for the system password, it tells me the password is incorrect. I type it out completely and correctly off the piece of paper, and it says it is not correct. I have now retyped it 15 times, so there is no chance of it being a typing error (and same thing after re-re-install). ***!! I just put it in, what other passwords could it be!! I even erased the entire HDD clean a second time, and re-re-installed the OS and repeated the above. Still the same problem.
Can someone give me any idea what might cause this? I have tried everything I can think of, and cannot think of any cause.
Thanks everyone,
DpDimick
Message was edited by: DpDimick

Thanks again V.K. I did check the layout, and it was listed as alphabet when I inputted the password. So that doesn't seems to the the issue.
Just finished a truly mystifying experiment, but I put in a shorter password in the way mentioned earlier and it worked. I then systematically kept increasing the characters of that password and it seems that if the password starts to exceed about 16, it stops recognizing it. I am fairly sure it is not the password itself since it never gives an error when typing in the verification password. So unless I systematically make the exact mistake twice at the setup screen, and then don't or make a different mistake every time at the login screen, I don't think its my typing skill.
So problem solved for now, but I am still a bit worried. Maybe I should completely reinstall and use a shorter password.
Is there supposed to be a length limit?

Erase zeros in a cluster

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