Getting my printer to print colors accurately?

Using CS3, I am trying to print my logo using a Epson Stylus R1800. The color is not matching. What is the easiest way to get the color that I have designated in my logo to print as accurately as possible?
The color is question is:
# 76969C
C:57
M:31
Y:34
K:1
Thanks!

The colour is not matching what? Colour on screen is created using glowing red, green, and blue light. When those colours are mixed in adequate and equal brightness, you get white, thus they are called “additive” colours. Colour on a page is created by starting with a white page, then adding cyan, magenta, yellow, and black ink that absorbs light. If the inks are mixed in adequate and equal portions, you get black, because all light is absorbed by the ink. That’s called “subtractive” colour.
The two methods of producing colour are very different, and are perceived very differently. One relies on light shining through the image right into your eye, the other relies on light (of unknown colour and temperature) shining off ink and paper into your eye. This is why there is an entire class of jobs devoted to getting on-screen colours as close as possible to on-paper colour. Matching is impossible. It’s why you might think $300 is too much to pay for a 23˝ monitor, but for others a monitor the same size can be a bargain at $2,000.
Another complication is that your printer is an RGB device. Huh? Yeah, it sounds bizarre, and in fact it is. The printer driver you are using only understands colour in RGB values, which your printer converts to approximately equivalent CMYK values. If you are working in CMYK your colour is being converted (and thus, distorted) twice.
If your goal is to get the most accurate output from the Epson printer, then you should work in RGB mode in Illustrator and go to edit > Assign Profile and chose your printer from the list. If you only want to proof your file on the printer, but will eventually be outputting to a CMYK device like a PostSCript RIP or printing press, then you will have to accept the limitations of the workflow you have chosen.
Stand by. There will likely be others along to tell me what I got wrong and offer you more good news than I.

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cmszinnia wrote:
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I think I'm seeing a trend of double (or multiple) color transformations here...
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Has Windows itself perhaps added a color management stage somewhere in the mix?
Has something changed that causes the Color Management: Off setting in the printer drivers to be ineffective, or more complex than just "on" or "off"?
What do we know so far?
With CS5, many people using Epson printers cannot get reasonable print colors unless they use the Printer Manages Colors setting in Photoshop. I don't know what they're choosing in the printer drivers because I don't have an Epson.
I personally have seen evidence of double profiling (magenta looking print) with my HP printer when Photoshop is set to Printer Manages Colors. This is kind of the opposite problem from what people are reporting about Epsons.
The ICM Method setting in my HP drivers has an entry entitled ICM Handled by Host System, which is SEPARATE from ICM Disabled.
Given the above, a person could be forgiven for thinking there are more combinatorial choices than just these two:
Photoshop Manages Colors and "ICM disabled in the printer / drivers"
Printer Manages Colors and "ICM handled by the printer / drivers"
What does the Epson printer driver color management selection look like?
-Noel

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On a Mac, make sure Photoshop is fully Quit, then cold-start it, and immediately press and hold the Command - Option - Shift keys down. If you've gotten them down quickly enough Photoshop will prompt you to confirm deletion of the preferences, which will cause the automatic generation of default preferences.
Hope that helps!
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This question was solved.
View Solution.

We need more detail. What program are you printing with? Do you get the same color effect no matter what program you are using? The program you use when you get color halos have you used that program before and did not get halos?
Have you tried a different program an still get halos? If so, have you tried reinstalling you printer software package?
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--J
"I never let schooling interfere with my education" --Mark Twain

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Hello @Denver80205, and welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience!
I see you're having print output issues. I would love to try and help you, but I do need a little information first. I am linking a few HP Support documents below that will show you how to find which operating system you are using. Also, if you're using Windows, please include whether your operating system is 32-bit or 64-bit.
Mac OS X: How Do I Find Which Mac OS X Version Is on My Computer?
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Good luck and please let me know the results of your findings. Thank you for posting on the HP Forums!
Please click “Accept as Solution " if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks" for helping!
Jamieson
I work on behalf of HP
"Remember, I'm pulling for you, we're all in this together!" - Red Green.

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I have researched the matter a lot and I,
along with many others, still have problems with this complicated
subject.
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If you want a "simple button" try staying in sRGB and printing out of Apple Preview app using OEM standard papers matched to your printer and OEM ink set.

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Help!

I have been rather fortunate, I have been getting excellent color matching on my Epson.
I am wondering about your settings when printing to the Epson, since that can make a difference in how the color is translated when printing.
You say the prints come out accurately when sent to the printer - BUT, you have also stated that this is from an actual press. Pantone colors do not always look the same when printed out in process, there can be a HUGE color shift. If your printer has one, look at his Pantone solid to process book so you can see the differences in your chosen colors.
I did look at yours and there is only a slight color shift, have you checked your CMYK settings for your spot colors on your computer? I remember having that issue before. The CMYK value I have for 3155 in my Pantone Solid to process is C:100 M:0 Y:24 K:38 and 397 is C:10 M:0 Y:100 K:11. If your printer has these settings, then their colors will be more accurate if they are double checking to make sure the correct pantone formula is being used.
In your print settings, are you printing a proof? what are you choosing for the Color Handling? I have been using Document RGB - sRGB IEC61966-2.1 with good luck. You may need to try those and see which profile works best for you.
Hopefully this helps some.
Message was edited by: macgurl_70 I forgot to ask, it reads like you are having them printed on an offset press - the pantone colors will always be more vivid and correct since they are using a specially formulated ink and not a cmyk (or rgb) mix of colors. Also, when they are printing - the plates will print the spot color as one plate for that specific ink - and NOT four plates for the CMYK, giving them the most accurate color. No matter what printer you choose, it will not print EXACT pantone colors, so check on the shift in that pantone guide (I didn't see much of one, but they were definitely not as vivid).
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[newbie] Printing - colors are strangely subdued

I have searched, but wasn't able to find an answer.
I'm new to lightroom (love it), and am printing to a regular color printer (not a photo printer).
If I print my .jpg from IE, it reflects colors pretty accurately. If I print from LR (which I'd prefer - it sizes the photo better to fit on one page) the colors are very very subdued, and don't look at all like what is on the screen. Same printer each time.
I'm using default settings, nothing fancy.
Guidance for a newbie would be very much appreciated.
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Jessica

Hi Jessica,
Try it Dorin's way first. It's fast, easy, and cheap and if it works and solves it for you that fast, you're done.
But on my system, sRGB is not even a possible setting when I select Other under Print module > Print Job (bottom of right hand column) > Color Management > Profile.
If it's not for you, either, or if you try and it doesn't help, there were two other things I did which fixed it for me.
First, I have a Canon printer, and I download a color profile from the Canon website that matches my specific model printer to both the Canon paper I'm using (Canon Photo Paper Plus Glossy) and a setting I pick for Print Quality under Printer Properties, a sliding scale from 1 to 5--in my case, I use setting 2. I download the profile I need (which will be a file ending in .icm) to my C:\Windows\system32\spool\drivers\color folder, and then when I click Other under Print module in LR, I can select that .icm file I downloaded. Then from Print module in LR, I have to click the Print button and Properties > Main tab, and set Paper to Photo Paper Plus Glossy and set Print Quality: Custom > Set button > Quality: 2 and Halftoning: Diffusion > OK. Now, LR, Windows, and my printer are all set on the same page.
The settings that work for my Canon printer would likely be very different for your printer, particularly one made by a different company. You wouldn't even likely see the same options under your printer settings. But this gives you an idea how you can get LR and printer on the same page regarding the paper being used and the color settings.
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At its core, color management is just a translator. I like to think of it as similar to correcting pronunciation in spoken language so that people from different regions can understand each other when reading aloud the same word. For example, where I grew up the city not far away called Versailles was pronounced as ver-sails, while in France the city for which our local one was named is pronounced vair-sigh. If a Frenchman asked directions of a local he'd get a balnk stare unless he knew the local pronunciation.
Color management looks at the numbers coming in (that's all digital color is), determines the source of the numbers so that it can understand how the source thinks they should be represented (prounounced, if you will) by the device or application making the image, then "translates" those numbers into a new set of numbers that will be identically represented at the destination, or "phonetically" the same. In many case the differences in the numbers will be very subtle or even non-existent. In other cases they will be quite radical. The biggest areas of concern are usually the edges of the color gamut for the output device and whether certain colors can be prodcued at all, and if not, how will color be shifted throughout the image. Do you fix only the out-of gamut colors, or shift everything a little so relationships are preserved? That's the rendering intent.
When I say double managed I mean that your application has seen the destination profile for the output device and made corrections in the numbers to match that device without further intervention, thendevice makes new transformations from those numbers based on some unknown algorithm. In all honesty I have no idea how printers do color management internally or what they are trying to do, whether it is removing color casts or boosting saturation, or whatever. If the numbers sent don't require further adjustment, then anything the printer management is doing is taking you away from "correct" (or intended) reproduction.
This does not mean that the result is not going to be pleasing to the viewer, or even more pleasing, just that it no longer accurately reflects the original. This is a major battle for those of us who do things like museum catalogs. Some paintings cannot be represented well in print because the artist uses colors that are well outside the press gamut. Other times there may be shadow or highlight detail in the original that gets lost without very careful adjustment of curves, and finding a balance between all the elements to create a "fair representation" is the goal.
With a photograph taken in "the wild" you have a lot of leeway for adjusting colors, brightness, and contrast to render a subject you find pleasing to the eye. If the grass is a shade of green that we expect and the snow isn't purple, most of us will presume the photo is "correct" when in fact if you take your print back to the original scene it amy look quite different. That's OK, as long as it looks the way YOU wanted it to look.
The problem with double management is that you've lost control of what the print will look like since you can't predict what the printer is going to do to any particular image beyond some general trend. I think the places like Costco probably lighten all images generally and boost saturation and contrast because doing that can make a marginally dark photo look "better" without doing an unacceptable amount of damage to a well-exposed image presented to an average viewer.

CS4 - Match Print Colors vs Soft Proof (Proof Colors)

Using a custom printer profile, when I check Match Print Colors in the Print dialog box, the preview closely matches the print. However, the image in the CS4 workspace (with Proof Colors checked) looks like the print preview with Match Print Colors unchecked. The main difference is that the Proof Colors image is brighter than the print preview or actual print. I have the same profile selected in each case. How can I get the Proof Colors view to match the Print dialog preview which more accurately matches the print? I've carefully checked all settings.

To get the best soft proof for print you have to have two accurate color profiles in place.
A monitor profile which would be generated by a hardware or software calibrator during a monitor calibration—if you calibrated your monitor to something like 2.0 gamma and a 5500 K white point, a coresponding monitor profile would be generated for the OS so that the CS applications know what your monitor conditions are.
You also need an accurate press profile, which is usually assigned to a document on creation (Edit>Assign Profiles). The default is US Web Coated SWOP, which creates a lighter soft proof than US Sheetfed Coated.
If either or both profiles are off the softproof (View>Overprint Preview if your layout has RGB color) will be less accurate. So for exmple, if your monitor's gamma is 2.2, but the monitor profile has it as 1.8, and your press profile is US SWOP but the press is printing closer to US Sheetfed, you would get a soft proof that's too light.

How do I get my printer to match the colours of the image as I see it on screen?

How do I get my printer to match the colours of the image as I see it on screen? My HP Office Jet Pro L7680 printer tends to print my images with a bias towards red compared to the image I am seeing on screen with Lightroom 5 using a Mac with Retina 5 screen. Would appreciate any expertise on how to calibrate the printer to the screen

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The other alternative is to purchase a piece of hardware such as the ColorMonki which can be used to not only profile your monitor for color balance but also you printer/paper as well as your camera. When all of your devices agree on what color 118,118,118 means, you get the same color from capture to print but this is also an expensive option and there is a lot of time involved in building your own color profiles. The results however, are much more accurate.
Once you have a color profile installed, the next step involves doing soft proofing. Once you have your image looking the way you want it to in LR, open it in the soft proof option. This will show you how your print will look using the color profile for the paper/printer you are using. During the process, you will be shown the print on your screen which may look off. Use the small triangle in the upper-right corner of the histogram to turn on the out-of-gamut warning. This will highlight any parts of your image which contain colors your printer can't handle. Use the rendering intent options to decide how you want these colors handled (relative or perceptual). Check them both and use the one you like best. You can also make additional changes at this point if required before you generate the JPG image. Make sure to save it as a max quality JPG using the sRGP profile. Once saved, you can send this image to your printer or even to a lab as the process is the same.The attached link should get you to a video showing how to use the ColorMunki hardware/software but, more importantly, shows you how to prepare an image for printing (in this case, for a lab) using soft proofing with the color profile created (or downloaded).--Great Color from Your Lab Prints – Every Time! on Vimeo

Printer not printing AND Matching Screen colors to Print colors. Any advice is apreciated!!

Hello - I have 2 questions regarding printing to an Epson and also regarding the monitor colors Not matching the print colors working from Photoshop CS4 on a Mac with a Maverick [ 10.9.3 ] OS. My issues are Not about my own printers or software. I have been tutoring a friend via phone in Photoshop; he has CS4 and is working on Mac OS 10.9.3.
1- We found that he could print nearly fine [ nearly accurate colors ] from Lightroom on his computer, version 5.4. But when he tries to print from Photoshop he cannot make a print. There is clear communication between the computer and the printer, as, when he sent the file to print, the printer [ an Epson 3880 ] responded by automatically changing to Photo Black from Matte. Then, it opens the rollers as if to print, but, it them stops and the menu [ on the Printer ] says 'Ready.' The paper is 4x6” Moab Lasal paper 300gsm. This issue of Not printing is only with this Moab Lasal luster paper, for which he Does have the IIC profile, and we always make sure ‘Photoshop manages colors,’ not the printer. To address the issue of the printer Not printing at all using a non-Epson brand paper, we have tried seemingly everything from deleting and re-adding the printer from the Library / Printers, resetting everything [ printer computer software etc ], trying different settings in the Printer window and the Print Settings window. Including changing the media profile, platen gap, etc.
2- My other and more important question is – after we Do get a print, we cannot match the monitor color to the print. [ We havE been able to get a print using Epson brand paper. Which is odd because we have the ICC profiles for both papers ]. To address the color matching issue, he has told me he calibrated the monitor with a Spyder, and here are a few other variables that I can relay that may or may not be affecting his color-issues:
He iS viewing his prints in a dayliglht-rated lighting environment
The monitor is an iMac glossy finish monitor, not an anti-glare
We tried working and printing from both an 8-bit and also a 16-bit color-space and also 16-bit printing
The color shift is slightly but noticeably toward Magenta.
His printer is Not calibrated
Please let me know what else we can do, any known glitches that may be an issue with his older version of CS, any tips you can suggest.
Thanks very much!

I don't have that printer and I'm not on Mac, so someone else has to step in there. Generally a green/magenta cast indicates none/double printer color management. But then I don't know what you mean by "slight".
The Spyders aren't the most consistent and reliable calibrators out there. I had a Spyder 3 sensor that I just threw away because it gave a distinct red cast (I have several other calibrators, so there was no doubt). Another potential problem is that with most calibrators you can only adjust the white point along the blue/yellow Kelvin scale, but not on the green/magenta scale. This is often necessary to get a good white point color. In this case you need to use the monitor's OSD controls, and if possible the "pre-calibration" function in the calibrator to measure and monitor it - if that function exists. And I don't know if this is possible with an iMac.
This is basically a question of getting the white point right, both on the blue/yellow and the green/magenta axis (and luminance of course). The goal is to get a visual match to paper white on screen. With the white point properly set, neutral color balance relates to that, and the rest more or less follows by itself. (In addition you should set the proper black point/contrast for full control, but that's not the issue here).

HP LaserJet Pro 400 color M451dn Printing Color Streaks: HELP!

We recently replaced the ink cartridges in our printer, but now, it's printing color streaks on our paper. The weird thing is, it only does this for 4 pages every 4 pages. 4 pages will be okay, then we'll get cyan, magenta, yellow, and black horizontal stripes on the next 4 pages. We think it's because we replaced the Laserjet cartridges with a generic toner. Is there any way to fix this???

To get your issue more exposure I would suggest posting it in the commercial forums since this is a commercial product. You can do this at Commercial Forums.
I hope this helps!
R a i n b o w 7000I work on behalf of HP
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Getting my printer to print colors accurately?

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