Green screen filming ..indoors or outdoors ?

If i'm to drop people onto a film footage of a forest...
Do I film the people on a green screen in daylight ? as most instruction videos I've seen have the green screen in a garage or indoors place...would it make a difference ?
Or best to keep indoors and light for the best daylight i can achieve ?
I will be dropping the people onto a forest film.
Thanks

I think I'd rent the HMI's.. they are lights whose color temperature matches daylight. Putting blue filters over lamps will cut down the light too much I'd think. If you're near any lighting and grip rental houses, they'll likely have HMI lighting for rent. You could just use incandescent lighting, but the color correction may drive you nuts in post to sell the composite. The blue filter idea should be tested before you're knee deep in production too I'd suggest.
Doing chroma keys isn't easy and it must be lit properly. The trick is to keep the subjects away from an evenly lit green screen. and shot with a camera that records in a 4:2:2 color space... or the keys are nigh impossible. i.e. no DV, no HDV... P2 at least... I'd suggest you read up on this at http://www.creativecow.net. Search the articles there, I'm sure there's one on doing green screen work.
Jerry

Similar Messages

  • Blue/Green Screen And Multiple Cameras?

    Next week a number of us are demonstrating Blue/Green Screen filming and editing to members of our video club who are not familiar with the technique.
    Originally the person who thought up the idea intended to have 3 groups of people filming a 2 minute script on a "station platform" a la "Brief Encounter".
    So far, so good, but then the creator of the idea suggested we should shoot each scene with 2 or 3 cameras to make it look more professional.
    I don't like complications when the aim is to demonstrate a technique, but somebody has suggested there will be a further drawback.
    When we cut from one camera to another during editing, the angle of the "actors" will alter but the background will not!
    This will create the equivalent of a jump-cut.
    Has anyone done such a shoot, experienced this problem or found a (reasonably simple) solution?
    My idea of a solution is to have one camera in a fixed position! But, then, I am lazy.

    Hi Ian
    You know me and my speculations (what You got without enough Know-How)
    But I would try to first apply Green-screen effect to one Camera angle
    at a time. Then I can get another background for Camera two etc.
    Then save these as QT full quality .mov (or rather back to Camera and new tape
    feel much safer this way) and re-import then and now prepare
    for multi angle cutting. (By putting one Camera on each track. Minimizing size
    to 25% and locate each to one separate corner)
    Now playback and I will in Canvas see all Cameras in each corner and can by using
    transparicy adjuts which one to be seen.
    Then as a last action - upscale all to 100%
    Done
    But as You see this is me just speculating. I fell for FC-Pro and the MultiCam
    function here. It's fantastic.
    Yours babblingt Bengt W

  • Green screens on film when comes out of compressor

    Hi guys
    When my film comes out of the compression stage I keep getting random green screens instead of a clip.  Definitely wasnt on my time line. Please can any one help.  I am using an Imac with a 4tb G-Tech drive attached.  Help please.

    Hello its Final Cut Pro 7 and I am using Magic Bullet Looks. Not sure what you mean by specs of the media, sorry.
    Thank you for replying - it is much appreciated.  The randomness of it is what I find so confusing.

  • Can you crop, resize and move a clip using green screen?

    This is what I'm trying to do:
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    Hi Spencer,
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  • Using green screen

    I know that I've seen several threads in this discussion before about using green / blue screen but I haven't come accross one that actually tells you how to work with it once you've shot. I made a green screen which looks pretty good if i do say so myself, but I don't know what to do once I've shot the footage and imported it into FCE. Can somebody please post the steps I need to take or a link to a website that would help? Thanks a lot,
    Alex
    iMac G4 1.25 GHz   Mac OS X (10.4.5)   768 MB RAM

    Hi Alex.
    I have just copied and pasted an answer I gave in October. It should get you started. As it says, try out the Blue/Green Screen filter first - it's easier than the Chromakey.
    I have done a bit of Blue Screen work.
    My Blue Screen is around 6'x 9' and cost around £3 (or $5).
    It is a large medium-blue bedsheet I bought at the local market!
    You can pay many hundreds of pounds for a proper one but mine seems to work as well as a friend's professional model.
    All you do is pin it to a wall etc.and film the person or object, you want superimposed, in front of it.
    You should try to avoid wrinkles although I have used mine when terribly creased and it has been OK.
    Shadows are deadly, so I usually film outdoors on a cloudy day or in the shade.
    Why outdoors? The subject needs to be brightly lit. If the camera has to boost the brightness your results will be unsatisfactory.
    All you do then is put your background scene on Video Track 1 and the Blue Screen shot on Video Track 2.
    Highlight the BS scene and from your Filters choose either Chromakey or Bluescreen.
    You then fiddle around with the various sliders until you get the effect you want.
    Many people use the Chromakey Filter but I have had more luck with the Blue Screen Filter and it seems easier to use.
    Try it out. It's quite easy and as long as you do it my way it's not expensive!
    Ian.
    PS Make sure the person or object you are filming has not got a blue shirt etc.!
    This is the whole thread if you want to read it - it contains some additional tips :-
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1063234

  • Can't figure out why green screen is pixelating!

    I had terrible problems with square pixelating on my production.
    any ideas on what caused this... we played with saturations all day with no effect. I did have a empty green "last frame". It seemed nothing we could do would help!
    I filmed with a Sony DCR-SR68 HandyCam in the highest quality and the background I chose from a Free Use source for greenscreen back grounds online.
    I hope you can give me some insight here...every tutorial i have watched made green screen in iMovie look very simple... and yet we could not figure out why this pixelation was occurring!
    reasons i wondered about:
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    ...however i have seen screens look a lot worse and work
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    ...i realized that "facial recognition" was turned on which caused the camera shot
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    ...i was about a foot away from screen (but no shadows) and camera was about a yard in front of
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    if anyone wants same rendering or screen shots let me know and I can email some!
    Let me know what you think and if you need anymore info!
    Thanks in advance for all your help!

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  • How do I add Green screen effects in iMovie 10.0.6

    I have been working on a project and have green screen elements as well as pr keyed elements that I want to add to my film but am unable to figure out ow to do it. How do I add Green screen effects in iMovie 10.0.6?

    Have a look at http://help.apple.com/imovie/mac/10.0/#mov82da1338a
    Geoff.

  • Is green screen the right way forward?

    Hello, I'd appreciate any feedback on this, if anybody has any suggestions. I want to film a subject in a long shot as if they're standing in a large white expanse of nothingness. Should I film them against a heavily lit white background and then extend the whiteness around them in post, or should I film them against a greenscreen and key out the offending colour. I have access to shake, so are there any issues I should be thinking about while filming against green. The actors will all be wearing black dinner suits, I heard this is bad for absorbing some of the green. I'm very new to the whole colour keying thing, so any info will be gladly taken.

    Now that you mentioned that you are shooting on the dvx, I would definately recommend using white background. 3 chip cameras are a bit more difficult to key than other mediums like HD or film. You will see some hard lines around your edges, and if there are fly-aways (loose hairs), forget about it. Any movement of the subject will be more detectable on greenscreen as opposed to shooting on white.
    I just cut an 8 minute art video that was all shot green screen on the dvx. it worked well, but there were definately some difficult areas.
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  • Blue screen, or Green screen - which is less problematical

    Setup: Canon HV20, FCP6.1, MBPro 2.33
    I have a Blue screen and am considering getting a Green screen. The Blue, being pretty dark, seems to cause problems for the camera, esp. with contrast with the actor that make for tricky lighting.
    Just curious if others have this problem and if Green screen carries its own set of problems--too bright, etc.
    Also if anyone knows a good place to buy the Green screen let me know.
    Elmer Lang
    H2E Productions - "Better Than Water"
    http://elmerlang.com - 60+ Films Strong
    http://elmerlang.com/TheDeathofMagic.html

    Elmer, nice to see you here rather than at 2-pop.
    The green screens from http://www.eefx.com/ are among the best I've seen.
    I'm writing a basic green screen tutorial using one of its 10x9 foam backed products and we got a pretty good key using a HVX200 and some basic lighting.
    You also mentioned the HV20.
    Take a look at this tutorial excerpt:
    http://69.36.12.13/samples/dvmattep3/dvmattep3guerrillagreenscreen.mov
    While lighting is crucial, from what I've researched, green seems to be a better election

  • Green Screen using AVC-Intra 100 ugly

    Been using the hpx300 for approx two months mostly in 720p with great results. Just wraped our first true HD green screen shoot using avc-intra 100 at 24p with the intent of producing a white background mac-ad type, 5 min talking head corporate piece in SD. I had the camera mounted at 90 degrees to capture the 1920 pixels of subjects head-to-toe so I could then manipulate individual zoom and placement in post within a SD timeline. I've got two issues: one is that the images in post seem noisy, and any movement, as in subjects walking across screen, is a total mess - I say seem because all recording and playback on location looked just fine on a 1920x1200 monitor via blackmagic i/o box. I normally do basic editing in premiere with much help from AE for composting and color correction etc. Keylight has always worked great in the past. I must have something wrong with settings in the avc-intra HD content? Secondly, workflow is a bit convoluted... Keylight doesn’t apply in premiere, and AE doesnt do avc-intra. The workaround is to export avc-intra premiere timeline to AE and key that.  In theory it should work just fine, but again my images are just noisy. Could this PR to AE workflow degrade image quality?  Any suggestion greatly appreciated! Thanks, Matt

    Poster must be busy shooting more stuff....
    Found some info on that " hollywood camera " site.....
    IS HD REALLY HD- GREENSCREEN ISSUES
    These plates were all shot with an HVX-200, mostly with the 100 MBps DVCPROHD codec. This was good enough for us for Visual Effects For Directors because we had specific needs, but we don't consider them good enough for full film production.
    Here's why:
    COLOR SAMPLING: We      prefer all green screen to be 4:4:4, so every pixel has a unique color.      4:2:2 only updates the color every second pixel, but green screen      desperately depends on a sharp, accurate, scientific color transition.      With 4:2:2, you're operating in half resolution. But if you downsize, like      we downsized to 720x480, you're at full resolution again. So because we're      delivering in SD, the plates are 4:4:4 for us. They'll just be 4:2:2 for      you if you're delivering for an HD movie.
    PIXEL ASPECT: When      a camera is listed as 1920x1080 HD, that's really stretching the truth.      You'll see that all our plates are in 1280x1080, which is the original      camera resolution, meaning that the plate has to be stretched 150% on the      X-axis to be in the right aspect. In other words, you're only operating at      66% resolution on the X-axis. Did someone say "smearing"?
    NOT EVEN 4:2:2: By      the time 1280 has been stretched to 1920 to make up for the 1.5:1 pixel      aspect ratio, 4:2:2 has been stretched out too, basically becoming      4:1.5:1.5
    LENS RESOLUTION: Nobody      besides DPs really thinks about the fact that a lens has a resolution.      Zoom lenses are made of many lens elements in a clever configuration, and      each element introduces some blur. That's why top-notch DPs like to use      prime-lenses cut from diamonds from King Solomon's mines, because if the      lens limits the resolution, it doesn't really matter how well you record      the signal after that. Some people have come to the conclusion that the      HVX-200 is really a 720p camera, because the 1080p resolution doesn't      really come through. We tend to agree, but we don't want to start a      religious war, and will say that it's just our personal experience. On top      of that, we've used a $500 wide-angle adapter on some shots, which really      butchers the pixel resolution, so even though we're recording at 1080p,      we're really not. But 1080p allowed us to record with the 100 MBps      DVCPROHD codec, which meant that we still got a very respectable resized      SD signal out of it.
    BAYER PATTERN: Most      cameras use a Bayer pattern on the chip, so that every pixel is EITHER      Red, Green, or Blue — but not at the same time. A full Red-Green-Blue      pixel is derived mathematically by interpolation. It's no wonder that some      organisations are starting to call for an objective standard for what      really constitutes a pixel, because a Bayer pixel is definitely not a real      pixel — more like half a pixel. By the way, there are twice as many Green      pixels than Red or Blue in a Bayer sensor, so you're far better off using      green screen than blue screen on video.
    HALO: Even      with the internal sharpness generator completely disabled, the HVX-200 has      a clear black fringe several pixels wide on the right side of actors on      green screen. Panasonic vehemently denies it, but it's very easy to see.      In this      picture, notice that white areas get a fringe, but darker areas, like      her legs or hair, don't. Panasonic's explanation has been that it's just a      shadow from the lighting (huh?), but the halo is on the KEY side — so the      only plausible explanation is a quantum singularity localized to the actor      which bends light as it passes by her body. We think it comes from the      Bayer pattern, but we're not sure. And Panasonic shouldn't feel bad. A Nikon      D80 does it too.
    HEAVY COMPRESSION: Even      though it seems like a lot that we're recording at 100 MBps in the      DVCPROHD codec, if you calculate the bit-rate per true output-pixel, we're      actually still compressing at a whopping 15:1.
    NOISE: Video      cameras in this price range tend to have rather high noise, and on top of      that, they're usually 8 bits per color channel. This can result in some      highly visible shadow noise that almost pixellates when the brightness is      just on the edge of a bit-threshold. You can see some of our plates doing      this.
    An HVX-200 and all its brothers and sisters in its price range simply don't have the horsepower for full pixel, high dynamic range, high resolution, uncompressed production that you need to do truly professional green screen. Green screen is ultimately a scientific process, and is one of the most demanding things you can do with your camera. Regular live-action images are MUCH easier for your camera to handle, so for regular filmmaking, your camera is fine, don't feel bad.
    We have nothing against the HVX-200 or its brothers or sisters — come on, we shot a whole DVD set about visual effects on it — but it's important to really understand what the limitations are. It's fine to own your own camera for regular filming. For green screen, you should consider renting the very best you can afford — and make every decision right, which is where we come in.
    Thanks for reading!
    Rod

  • Green Screen alternative?

    Hey everybody! So I don't have the resources to acquire a green screen, I was hoping there would be a better workaround to filming a specific footage I had in mind. Can anyone help me out? The footage i'm trying to capture is a mirror scene in first person with the reflection. Please help ASAP

    But what about the background of the actor? Wouldn't that give away the technique?
    No . You choose a BG that makes it look like th actor is in a bathroom.  (context)
    how exactly do I obtain an empty mirror shot?
    You shoot one. 
    Doesnt matter if the camera is seen in the mirror because you are going to composite a shot into the mirror frame,  ie. replace the contents of the mirror with the shot.   Corner Pin is the effect to use..

  • RE: CS5 and CS5.5:Something on the green screen, can it be removed?

    I didn't realise but while filming with a  green screen there was something on it, can it be removed or is there a way I can "paint over it" to make it all green?

    Does the talent interact with that spot, or is it always just background? If the latter, simply use a Crop or Garbage Matte to hide it.
    Thanks
    Jeff Pulera
    Safe Harbor Computers

  • Unable to green screen help please

    hi.
    i'm trying to use the green screen feature with little success.
    i have created a red bouncing ball on green background.mov animation to overlay over a background.
    all goes well until it come to the actual overlayering and i'm left with a lightened ball and darkened background instead of a removed green background and a red ball.
    any hints as to where i'm going wrong?

    Green screen works when you film a video using a camcorder in front of a green background. After importing this video into iMovie, you can drag and drop it on another video or photo and the green background will disappear. I don't think it works as you are using it.

  • Blank green screen when renting a movie

    We rented a movie from itunes but when we went to watch it all that we could see was a green screen. Help please?

    I have the same problem too!!!
    I always get this problem and I have solved it by connecting my iPad to my computer and reinstall everything, and then the films has started downloading. But I can’t do that every time I want to hire a film!

  • Tutorial for Colour Correction and Green screen

    Anyone know of any good tips to remove the green look from white hair? or any tutorials I can read for colour correction with green screen?
    I filmed a getlemen who has white hair on a green screen. The colour of his hair picked up a slight tint of green and I need to remove it. Can anyone lend some sound advice.
    Thanks

    Your best chance is to study the manual carefully and to cycle through the chromakeying filters you have at your disposal. If you were using DV, you will probably need to purchase a far more capable keying application, one that compensates for DV's terrible chroma resolution.
    The books on the shelves at Borders and Barnes/Noble for After Effects and FCP will help you get the most from your existing key filters. You will ned up stacking several copies of your footage with different key settings. Without preproduction, the proper lighting, a good camera and adequate tape format, managingr a good chromakey in post is very difficult.
    google chromakey, too.
    bogiesan

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