Help with Organizer

I'm on a Mac. I made a "Master Image File" on my hard drive. I put folders of raw images into the "Master" folder.
I have chosen to view by folders. But - I see less than the total number of images in the folders.
For example from one image folder: I get a message at the bottom that 11 are displayed and that 38 are not shown. Where are they and how do I see them????
I tried to delete the folder and rebuild it from another hard drive -- now organizer keeps showing me the folder that I deleted.
Why can I not just see the folders and the images that are in them? If I open the folder on my hard drive - all the images are there. Why cannot Organizer find and display them?
Oh, how I miss Bridge. I hate organizer! it is a bunch of "cute tricks" for finding faces - and a link to sites to order prints. It is not a real help to serious photographers and it just gets in the way.
Please, please, please bring back Bridge to the Mac for PSE 9.

>Organizer wasn't designed to perform this task.
And that is my point. Bridge does that. I want it back - or to find a substitute that I can recommend. It worked great for PSE 8.0. It also works great for PS CS5. In my studio I have 30 TB of external storage - on 15 eSATA hard drives. I have tens (maybe hundreds) of thousands of images organized by folders with customer/event plus date as the title. The files go back to 1998. Bridge can display the contents of any drive or any folder on any drive. Spotlight (built into the Mac OS) can pull up any image number or a name on a folder or image - I don't need another program to do that. Each folder has sub folders with the RAW, TIFF and JPG versions of the images.
In my classroom I use PSE to teach digital photography. I want to concentrate on PSE - but my students and I spend way too much time trying to find images hidden away in Organizer. They buy books on PSE - and half of the book is devoted to Organizer.
I advise my students to build a simple system of folders and download images into those folders - independent of a "photo" program. Then, they can back up the whole master folder to a second drive (time machine does it automatically on a Mac). My advice is to NOT give the download task to Organizer, or to iPhoto, or to any Program that came with the camera or the computer. 5 years from now all of them will have new computers and will be using a new photo program - I know for certain that, then, they will all be able to open images stored in simple folders. Ever try to help someone open images with PSE that were stored away by an old iPhoto program on an old Mac? Where are my images?
I am about to give up. I'll use PSE 9.0 for teaching - but I'll use the "open" function from PSE to go to the images. If I want to demonstrate how to apply Adobe Camera Raw to a JPG image, I have to do that anyway. I have not found a way to open a JPG image directly with ACR from organizer ----
Do I dare say it again ???? I hate Organizer. Please sell me a version of Bridge for PSE 9.0.
Why is that so hard ????????

Similar Messages

Help with Organizer (Ver 11) after hard drive failure

I have Elements 11 and am an experienced user. Problem is with the Organizer program. Hard drive (Network attached drive) with 16,000+ images failed. Actual Organizer catalog is stored on my regular computer C:\ drive. ONLY the photos were stored on the external drive. I replaced drive with a new drive (also external network attached). When I run Organizer, all the thumbnails indicate the files are "offline." When I run "reconnect files" from the menu bar, it tells me there are no missing files. If I use the file info window (in Organizer) and click on "Location" it tells me the file location ON THE ORIGINAL DRIVE is offline. If I go ahead and reconnect the file from that window, it does ok... BUT... when I go back to the Organizer and open that image full screen, it does NOT show the name tags of the subject when you mouse-over the displayed image. The "name" tags are still listed in the tag window, but no name on the screen. It looks as if the catalog is somehow looking for that very specific old drive, and that the tag database can't connect to the image on the replacement drive.
What happened to the database of all the people's names that are actually shown on-screen for each image?? The catalog on C:\ is intact and untouched by the external drive failure. How can I get Organizer to recognize all the image files on the new hard drive? I have screen shots of all the messages, etc., if that would help.
Thanks..... Earl

First of all, did you backup your catalog/media files via the catalog manager ? In that case the answer is to do a restore to the new custom location.
Since you are asking for help, I presume you have no backup available.
Now, the explanation for the problem. Network drives are considered 'offline' just like CD or DVDs when there are not active. On the other hand, each of those removable storage media are identified in the catalog database with a unique internal identifier which has the letter drive, device serial number, name and type of device. I am not competent about network drives, but I am sure that pluging another network drive will show different properties. Your drive will be considered offline.
Then, when you want to reconnect, the organizer does not consider the files are missing, it waits for you to plug in the original drive.
What solution ?
What could you do to enforce the Organizer to recognize the new drive as the old one ?
Let's suppose your files had not been on a network drive, but on an external USB drive. Then all your files would have been seen as 'missing' because the recorded paths of your media files would have been different for thedrive identifier, and reconnecting could have been a solution.
The main problem I see is that I am pretty sure that you can't tell the catalog manager how to change the identifier of the offline drive, and I can't see any easy workaround. If someone knows a way, I would be extremely interested! Would it be possible to fool the Organizer to identify the new network drive with the same parameters as the old one?
So, what I would do in your case would be to use an external sqlite database manager to look at the catalog.pse11db file and see how I could change directly the identification of the new drive.
I am pretty sure I could do that if the files had been on an external USB drive (not considered 'offline'). It's worth trying that for a network drive.
Tell me if you want to try such a solution. Otherwise, if you have 'written metadata to files', your only immediate chance is to start a new catalog and import from the new drive.

Help with Organizer in PSE 10

In setting up PSE10, the organizer sort of took over. Yeah, I know how stupid this sounds but I've never used organizer until now. I'm an artist using photos extensively and upload all pix to 2 thumb drives - one master and one for backup. Never directly to a computer. Then, I bring only those files into my machine that I'm working on in present time and transfer them back to my thumb drives when completed.
When I tried to upload my current shoot, it didn't allow me to send files to the thumb and seems to have dumped them into the machine. Also, it some how found a lot more that it started cataloging. My question is - how can I get control over the beast? If I have to forget the organizer, so be it. I've done that for years anyway. I just can't figure out what I'm taking out or how to find its hiding place. Is it pulling pix files from one or more of my attached thumbs? It had been doing something with about 6 gigs of files before I found the stop button.
Thanks for your help,

Start a new catalog.
File à Catalog à New
Then import only the folders you really want using File à get Photos and Videos à From Files & Folders

Help with Organizer please

I have just bought Adobe Classroom in a book to learn Premiere Elements 9, but I've hit a brick wall in the first chapter.
The instruction is to launch Organizer and choose File>Get Photos and Videos>From Files and Folders. However when I launch Organizer there are no tabs across the top showing File, Edit, Find, View, Window, Help. The screen caps in the book show these should be present.
Can anyone please tell me what I'm doing wrong?

It's impossible to say without knowing more about your computer and operating -- or at least seeing a screen capture of your interface.
Have you tried maximizing the program?
Also, do you see little arrows in the upper right of the interface? On some configurations and screen sizes, the menus are revealed when you click on those arrows.

Need help with Organizer 9 for Mac

My PSE 9 for Mac organizer has no map view. I followed the instructions but cannot find it. Any one else have this problem?

Mac Organizer doesn't support Map functionality.

Help with Photoshop Elements 9 Organizer

I need some help with my new Photoshop Elements 9 Organizer.
I have not had previous versions of Photoshop, this was a brand new installation. I had previously used Kodak software which came with my camera to organize and edit pictures.
My PC is approximately 6 years old. I have a 2.2 ghz processor and 1.5 GB of RAM. I am running Windows XP Home Edition, Version 2002, Service Pack 3.
The software seemed to install just fine. I then imported some pictures from my Kodak folders into the Photoshop Organizer. After importing pictures I then received the following error message:
'Elements 9 Organizer has encountered a problem and needs to close. We are sorry for the inconvenience.'
If I remove the pictures from the catalog, I no longer get the error message. As soon as I import any pictures, however, I get the error and the software closes. When I reopen the organizer I get the same error after after about 15 seconds
I have tried the following:
uninstalled an re-installed twice
turned off the automatic backup to photoshop.com
I did come across thread 769749 (http://forums.adobe.com/thread/769749) that offered some advice. Based on that, I optimized my catalog (which was empty), repaired my catalog (which was empty). I also created a new catalog and removed the existing (empty) catalog.
All of these efforts have not worked. Each time I try something, as soon as I import any pictures into the catalog, I get 'Elements 9 Organizer has encountered a problem and needs to close. We are sorry for the inconvenience.'
This is brand new software that I am unable to use.
Adobe, please help.

Answers to following queries would help-
* Are you able to import images into Organizer from folder other than your Kodak folders?
* Is your problem happening for importing from a specific set of folders only?
* Is your problematic folder having any video files in it which you are importing into Organizer?

Help with Adobe.premiere.elements12. Please It would appear under the organizer tab that the photos are organised in the lowest folder in the folder structure within Windows Explorer. How can I use the Windows Explorer structure to organise the photos wi

Help with Adobe.premiere.elements12. Please
It would appear under the organizer tab that the photos are organised in the lowest folder in the folder structure within Windows Explorer. How can I use the Windows Explorer structure to organise the photos within Elements.

In a situation such as yours, I tend to consolidate items into folders so I have folders of nice workable numbers of images, somewhere between 20 and 200 images. Now, whatever, once you've imported, do your moving within LR, not the OS! I will select all in a folder and drag into a folder a level or two or three above, and then delete the newly empty subfolders. I hope this helps a bit!
Once you've reached just new Imports of camera output, you'll be flying along.

I have a "Contact" organization issue I need help with. I organize multiple customers under their account affiliation. I place the people with their contact info under each account name by their dept/role in the notes section of their account. I am l

I have a "Contact" organization issue I need help with. I organize multiple customers under their account affiliation. I place the people with their contact info under each account name by their dept/role in the notes section of their account. I am looking to be able to directly dial / email from this info in yet notes section located within a contact. On Blackberry, the notes area entered in a contact can connect directly but on the iPhone those numbers/emails are inactive. I am trying to avoid having to create each of these individuals as a separate contact and keep them under their account affiliation. It is easier to find them. This does not seem like that complicated of a request and hoping someone can tell me how or share an app that will enable the "notes" within a contact be "active". Hope this makes sense.

I seem to recall that this question has been asked before and I'm pretty sure that the answer is that you can't do what you want to do with the native contact app. However, there are lots of contact apps out there that pull from the built app's data but have other features. Perhaps one of them would meet your needs.

Be grateful for your help with Photoshop Elements which I have been using for several years.

Be grateful for your help with Photoshop Elements which I have been using for several years. Does Elements need to have access to ‘My Pictures’ on Windows as when I remove Photos from ‘My Pictures’, Elements later, when backing up, gives a message that it is unable to ‘reconnect’ to the same picture on elements. On other occasions when removing a photo from Elements catalogue I also get a similar message when backing up saying ‘unable to reconnect’. 1. Is there a relationship between Elements and My Pictures and is Elements dependant on the Windows ‘My Pictures’? 2. Why does some photos in Elements in some cases cause them to multiply e.g. double; triple; quadruple; and on occasions even more? Is there something I need to do to stop this or an easy way I can remove the multiples without spending hours doing it manually one by one? Am I doing something wrong? My O/S is Windows XP SP2 and windows Vista on my Laptop. I have been using Elements 5 and have just purchased Photoshop Elements 8.0. (Upgrade) and about to install it. Be grateful for any advice as I do enjoy using the program if only I can resolve this issue. I am not a PC wiz and mainly use Elements to catalogue photos from which I compile collections and from them slide shows with music. Any advice appreciated Sonny.t PS Have tried to post this previously but without success so hoping to see message appear and a +response

The organizer doesn't care where you send your photos when you download them via the downloader or where they happen to be when you first bring them in if you use the Get Photos command, but once your pics are in the Organizer, you *must* move them from within organizer or it can't find them. You don't have to use My Pictures at all if you don't want to, but regardless of the folder where you put your photos, if you want them someplace else, you use organizer to do it.

Need help with overlapping divs!

Hey everyone,
I'm working on another website and I have come up against a common problem for newbie designers from what I hear, the dreaded overlapping div problem! I have a 2 column fixed layout with a floating left div. My left div has my nav bar and various images. When my main content div has more content than the left floating div, the left div border does not reach the footer! Until now, I have gotten by with just hitting return in my left column div until it reaches the footer. I am sure it is not the right way to do it but it has worked so far. The problem is, now one of the pages has the left column div overlapping onto the footer! I did some reading and I am guessing it involves either the box properties or clear float which I am not too familiar with.
Any advice would be stellar! I know this is just another stumbling block to get over but I would feel so much better if I was doing it the right way.
Here are screens of my issue,
And here is my code for the page in question.
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd">
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 <h2>Radon Gas Inspection</h2>
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 <h5>What Is Radon?</h5>
 Radon is a cancer causing radioactive gas. You cannot see, smell or taste radon, but it may be a problem in your home. The Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. 
 <div id="apDiv1">
 <div align="center"><a href="http://www.epa.gov/radon/video/epa-epu.wmv"><img src="_images/psa_revised.jpg" alt="What Is Radon?" width="200" height="172" border="0" /></a></div></div></div>
 If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, you're at high risk for developing lung cancer. Some scientific studies of radon exposure indicate that children may be more sensitive to radon. This may be due to their higher respiration rate and their rapidly dividing cells, which may be more vulnerable to radiation damage. 
 
 <h5>Why Is It Dangerous?</h5>
 The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) and the Surgeon General's Office have estimated that as many as 20,000 lung cancer deaths are caused each year by radon. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Radon-induced lung cancer costs the United States over $2 billion dollars per year in both direct and indirect health care costs.
According to the US EPA, nearly 1 in 3 homes checked in seven states and on three Indian lands had screening levels over 4 pCi/L, the EPA's recommended action level for radon exposure.
The alpha radiation emitted by radon is the same alpha radiation emitted by other alpha generating radiation sources such as plutonium.
A family whose home has radon levels of 4 pCi/l is exposed to approximately 35 times as much radiation as the Nuclear Regulatory Commission would allow if that family was standing next to the fence of a radioactive waste site. (25 mrem limit, 800 mrem exposure)
 At the 4 pCi/l EPA action guideline level, radon carries approximately 1000 times the risk of death as any other EPA carcinogen. It is important to note that the action level is not a safe level, as there are no "safe" levels of radon gas.
 
<h5>How Does It Get Into My Home?</h5>
 Radon is a radioactive gas. It comes from the natural decay of uranium that is found in nearly all soils. It typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Your home traps radon inside, where it can build up. Any home may have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements.
 Radon from soil gas is the main cause of radon problems. Sometimes radon enters the home through well water. In a small number of homes, the building materials can give off radon, too. However, building materials rarely cause radon problems by themselves.
Radon gets in through:
<ul>
<li>Cracks in solid floors
 <div id="apDiv3">
 <div align="center"><a href="http://www.fullcirclehomeinspections.com/_assets/CitizensGuideRadon.pdf"><img src="_images/citguidecoverradon.jpg" alt="Guide To Radon" width="154" height="200" border="0" /></a></div>
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</li>
<li>Construction joints</li>
<li>Cracks in walls</li>
<li>Gaps in suspended floors</li>
<li>Gaps around service pipes</li>
<li>Cavities inside walls</li>
<li>Surrounding water supply</li>
</ul>
 
<h5>What Can I Do?</h5>
 Radon is a national environmental health problem. Elevated radon levels have been discovered in every state. The US EPA estimates that as many as 8 million homes throughout the country have elevated levels of radon. Current state surveys show that 1 home in 5 has elevated radon levels.
 Testing is the only way to know your home's radon levels. There are no immediate symptoms that will alert you to the presence of radon. It typically takes years of exposure before any problems surface. 
Let Full Circle Home Inspections ensure your family and your home are protected and safe from radon exposure!
 
<h5>Radon Myths</h5>
MYTH: Scientists are not sure that radon really is a problem.
<blockquote>
FACT: Although some scientists dispute the precise number of deaths due to radon, all the major health organizations (like the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the American Lung Association and the American Medical Association) agree with estimates that radon causes thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths every year. This is especially true among smokers, since the risk to smokers is much greater than to non-smokers.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Radon testing is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.
<blockquote>
FACT: Radon testing is easy. You can test your home yourself or hire a qualified radon test company. Either approach takes only a small amount of time and effort.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Homes with radon problems can't be fixed.
<blockquote>
FACT: There are simple solutions to radon problems in homes. Hundreds of thousands of homeowners have already fixed radon problems in their homes. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs; check with one or more qualified mitigators. Call your <a href="http://www.epa.gov/radon/whereyoulive.html">state radon office</a> for help in identifying qualified mitigation contractors.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Radon affects only certain kinds of homes.
<blockquote>
FACT: House construction can affect radon levels. However, radon can be a problem in homes of all types: old homes, new homes, drafty homes, insulated homes, homes with basements, and homes without basements. Local geology, construction materials, and how the home was built are among the factors that can affect radon levels in homes.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Radon is only a problem in certain parts of the country.
<blockquote>
FACT: High radon levels have been found in every state. Radon problems do vary from area to area, but the only way to know your radon level is to test.
</blockquote>
MYTH: A neighbor's test result is a good indication of whether your home has a problem.
<blockquote>
FACT: It's not. Radon levels can vary greatly from home to home. The only way to know if your home has a radon problem is to test it.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Everyone should test their water for radon.
<blockquote>
FACT: Although radon gets into some homes through water, it is important to first test the air in the home for radon. If your water comes from a public water supply that uses ground water, call your water supplier. If high radon levels are found and the home has a private well, call the Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 1-800-426-4791 for information on testing your water.
</blockquote>
MYTH: It's difficult to sell homes where radon problems have been discovered.
<blockquote>
FACT: Where radon problems have been fixed, home sales have not been blocked or frustrated. The added protection is some times a good selling point.
</blockquote>
MYTH: I've lived in my home for so long, it doesn't make sense to take action now.
<blockquote>
FACT: You will reduce your risk of lung cancer when you reduce radon levels, even if you've lived with a radon problem for a long time.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Short-term tests can't be used for making a decision about whether to fix your home.
<blockquote>
FACT: A short-term test, followed by a second short-term test* can be used to decide whether to fix your home. However, the closer the average of your two short-term tests is to 4 pCi/L, the less certain you can be about whether your year-round average is above or below that level. Keep in mind that radon levels below 4 pCi/L still pose some risk. Radon levels can be reduced in most homes to 2 pCi/L or below.
 
 
 
<img src="_images/CA-3.jpg" width="520" height="207" />
</blockquote>
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And here is my CSS if needed,
@charset "utf-8";
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 margin: 0; /* it's good practice to zero the margin and padding of the body element to account for differing browser defaults */
 padding: 0;
 text-align: center; /* this centers the container in IE 5* browsers. The text is then set to the left aligned default in the #container selector */
 color: #000000;
.twoColFixLtHdr #container {
 width: 950px; /* the auto margins (in conjunction with a width) center the page */
 border: 1px solid #000000;
 text-align: left; /* this overrides the text-align: center on the body element. */
 margin-top: 20px;
 margin-right: auto;
 margin-bottom: 20px;
 margin-left: auto;
 background-color: #557050;
.twoColFixLtHdr #header {
 border-bottom: 1px solid #000000;
 height: 250px;
 background-color: #DDDDDD;
 padding-top: 0;
 padding-right: 10px;
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 padding-left: 20px;
 background-image: url(../_images/homebanner1.png);
.twoColFixLtHdr #header h1 {
 margin: 0; /* zeroing the margin of the last element in the #header div will avoid margin collapse - an unexplainable space between divs. If the div has a border around it, this is not necessary as that also avoids the margin collapse */
 padding: 20px 0; /* using padding instead of margin will allow you to keep the element away from the edges of the div */
 text-align: center;
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 font-family: Tahoma, Geneva, sans-serif;
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.twoColFixLtHdr #sidebar1 {
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 padding-bottom: 15px;
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.twoColFixLtHdr #mainContent {
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 margin-left: 250px;
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.fltrt { /* this class can be used to float an element right in your page. The floated element must precede the element it should be next to on the page. */
 float: right;
 margin-left: 8px;
.fltlft { /* this class can be used to float an element left in your page */
 float: left;
 margin-right: 8px;
.clearfloat { /* this class should be placed on a div or break element and should be the final element before the close of a container that should fully contain a float */
 clear:both;
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#paragraphFloat {
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#paragraphFloat2 {
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Please if anyone knows what I'm doing wrong please please let me know! Since I am learning, I really want to get main concepts like this down so I am not constantly doing things the hard way! Thank you!
Jayson

1) Regarding validation, what does it do?
It validates by telling you where your code isn't er... valid. Sometimes the results are a bit jumbled but if you work through them one at a time and revalidate, it's a good way to learn. If you fix all of the errors shown up through the validator you should end up with standards compliant code. Not necessarily the best, most efficient code you can write but at least it will be valid and it helps you spot errors that hours of code-staring never seems to find.
I don't use the DW validation tool because I find the W3c one easier.
The W3c validator has a check box of HTML Tidy which can tidy up your code but it's not always as easy to see what changes.
2) I know the tag for spacing is wrong, I could just feel it in my bones. I just didn't know what else to do. If I all the way down won't the code be just as cluttered?
You're obviously a born web coder!
 will bloat your page if you use them to position elements.
Here you need to get used to a) the Block Model and b) CSS positioning. Once you crack these, CSS opens up for you and becomes a little more intuitive.
if you have two elements on top of each other rather than push them apart with other elements you do it with padding and/or margin. There are things to watch out for here namely, collapsing margins but if you start to read up on the above, you'll get it.
I just thought of something. If I add a div in main content, align it to the bottom center with CSS, use a line break between it and the text above, and add the image in question in the new div, will the spacing between the text and image work itself out? I just really want to get out of the bad habit.
Keep thinking! Web design is not like desktop publishing or print. Elements on a HTML page don't behave like paragraphs on a page. Once you begin to figure out why not it all gets a little easier.
If you want an image at the bottom an element you put that at the end of the content in that element. Then you need to ensure there is no margin, padding or border between the img element and the next element (your footer). HTML elements come with some styling that is applied by default in the browser. Many web developers include a rule like this:
body {
margin: 0;
padding:0;
This sets the margin and padding to zero of course and it's purpose is to override the defaults. Some people advocate applying similar rules to all elements and if your interested try googling Eric Meyer who has written about it online.
One of the key purposes of CSS is to take styling out of the page. It's leaner, more efficient for the viewer and the coder and helps with site management.
3) AP divs are weird, and I did only use as a last resort.
See? You're a natural!
The reason is I am confused by the float and clear float classes. My left column is floated left and that element is what I was having problems understanding. I tried to make new divs and float right but I screwed it all up. I am sure I am just not applying the clear float in the right places.
Getting the hang of floating is key to CSS positioning. You use a float if you want two elements to sit side by side on the page. It disrupts the "document flow." Ordinarily HTML elements are rendered one after the other, on top of each other. Floating an element takes it out of the document flow and allows other elements to occupy its space. When you float an element it should always have a width. If the element below it also has a width, that width has to be sufficiently narrow to allow it to occupy the space. In short, floated elements can't be wider than their containing element.
The clear property is used after a float to stop an element occupying the space left by a floated element. It works but confuses the heck out of me!
So that leads me to my final point. I am a novice too! I might have fluffed a few of the technical points above but it's pretty much there.
Regards
Martin

Please help with a new dual purpose PC build

Hi everybody in AdobeLand!
I've been reading various boards and hardware sites and have started piecing together a dual purpose computer system. It will be used for both video editing (of pre-shot hacked, high bitrate I-Frame Panasonic GH2 DSLR and camcorder footage using the AVCHD codec @ 1080p 24 and 30 fps) and webcasting/streaming purposes. I would build two computers for each task, but it's just not in the budget right now. I'm already stretching things as is.
I'm still not sure if I will be using Adobe Premiere or Sony Vegas Pro 12 yet, though it seems like they organize their folders and file structures about the same. Adobe's cloud service has me a bit scared off right now. This new scheme feels like they have their hand purpetually in your wallet, which does not sit well with me. I may still go with Vegas 12 just to avoid that hassle right now. Help guide me here, experts! Telestream's Wirecast is being used for multi-cam switching and graphics for live and pre-recorded material being compressed and streamed.
Back on topic:
Here's the build as of right now...
OS: Windows 7 64-Bit Professional (Windows 8 absolutely sucks!)
CPU: Intel i7-4930k 6-Core Ivy Bridge (own)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 Pro (own)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 1.35v Sport DDR3L @ 32 GB (own)
GPU: EVGA GTX 770 FTW w/ 4 GB (will buy another HD monitor at a later date, hence the 4GB memory)
Case: Fractal Design XL R2 Full Tower
CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-D14 w/ SE2011 Bracket
PSU: Corsair RM1000 Quiet Series / 80 Plus Gold / 1000 Watts
Monitor: Dell U2412M Ultrasharp 24 inch / 1920x1200
Optical Drive: LG Blu-ray Writer
Keyboard: Microsoft 4000 Ergonomic
HDMI capture cards: Blackmagic Designs Decklink Mini (x2)
Storage:
I bought two Samsung 840 Pro SSD drives: one 128 GB and one 256 GB
Thinking about possibly 2 (maybe 3-4 if I really stretch) Seagate ST3000DM001 3TB HDD's.
I could sure use your help with any advise on arranging the storage to get the best bang vs. buck in speed and storage utilization (Wirecast can be setup to record live webcast sessions at 720p or 1080p in compressed files... probably no more than 120 minute webcasts... so that comes into play as well). Just don't have the funds for an uber-expensive RAID controller card right now.
Any opinions overall on the parts for the current build? I still have time to send back and exchange anything already purchased.
Thank you for your time and consideration.

What do you not understand from:
With all the reading and writing going on, on the boot disk, it is understandable you need a (number of) dedicated disk(s) for video editing, especially with the bandwidths required when the clip duration is short and the number of tracks exceeds one and uses a codec more complex than DV. The kind of files used during editing are, in order of their need for speed:
Media cache & Media cache database files, created on importing media into a project. They contain indexed, conformed audio and peak files for waveform display.
Typically small files, but lots of them, so in the end they still occupy lots of disk space.
Preview (rendered) files, created when the time-line is rendered for preview purposes, the red bar turned to green. Read all the time when previewing the time-line.
Project files, including project auto-save files, that are constantly being read and saved as auto-save files and written when saving your edits.
Media files, the original video material ingested from tape or card based cameras. Typically long files, only used for reading, since PR is a non-destructive editor.
Export files, created when the time-line is exported to its final delivery format. These files are typically only written once and often vary in size from several hundred KB to tens of GB.
When you are doubting which category of files to put on which kind of disk, especially when using both SSD's and HDD's, keep in mind that the speed advantage of SSD's over HDD's is most noteworthy with the Media cache & Media cache database. These files are frequently accessed, are small and there are many, so reducing latency and seek times and increasing transfer rates pays off by putting these on a SSD, rather than on a HDD, even if it is a raid0. Export files can go to the slowest volume on your system, since you only export once. To help you decide, I have added priority rank-numbers for speed, with 1 for the fastest volume and 5 for the least speed-demanding category.
and
Well, in the benchmark tests we have not seen any noticeable difference between SSD and HDD in terms of performance, but logic dictates that there should be a small difference in performance when the volume used for media cache is a SSD, because of the much faster access time and lower latency compared to a conventional disk. If it is noticeable, it is specifically on this volume with the media cache and media cache database, due to the large amount of small files that need to be accessed and written. This argument does not apply to the media volume with a limited number of files, that are very big in size.

Help with importing PC photo files and then organizing it all in iPhoto

Hi everyone,
I'm relatively new to mac but I am just loving my purchase! I need some serious help with getting all of my photos organized though so I can easily find it for editing in iMovie.
I've accumulated over 10,000 photos stored on my PC which I've since transferred over to my LaCie external drive for my MacBook Pro via a wireless network connecting my PC & Mac. Some of these I've put onto my laptop internal hard drive and those I've imported into the iPhoto library. However, do I need to move the rest of the photos from my LaCie drive into my internal hard drive to import the photos into iPhoto, or can I tell iPhoto to look for the files in the external drive. If so, how do I do that? I know I'll then have to create albums in order to sort them, which I know how to do. Is there any fast way to do it by date? I had it sorted into different file folders by month & year so I could easily find them on my PC and would like to do the same using albums.
I am quickly running out of hard drive space on my laptop which is why I've put most of my photos on the external drive. Once I organize my existing collection, I would like to be able to import new pictures and have it stored on my external drive, not my internal drive. How do I do that?
Any other tips on organizing a massive photo library would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Karen

Karen,
Is there any fast way to do it by date? I had it sorted into different file folders by month & year so I could easily find them on my PC and would like to do the same using albums.
This is where you get to enjoy the power of iPhoto's database. You can change the Sort in the View menu. Check out View > Sort Photos > by Date.
Or, click the little calendar icon near the lower left corner of the iPhoto window. This allows you to filter the library by year, month, week, or date. You can Command-click to add another date to your filter. You can Option-click to choose a recurring date: you get that month or date for all years in your library. [Want to see your kid's birthday for every year? Just Option-Click that date. Cool.]
The keywords filter is similar. There is a preference setting where you choose to filter based on ALL keywords chosen (where by choosing more keywords you narrow your field) or ANY keyword (where the more keywords you choose, the larger your field will be). Click on a keyword to filter your library by all photos containing that keyword. Use Command-click to add more keywords to the filter. A difference is that Option-click will eliminate photos with that keyword from your filter. [You can find all pictures of your kids with your dog but NOT at Halloween.]
You can create Smart Albums to combine the use of dates, keywords, ratings, titles, comments and more. The more information you enter into the database, the more powerful the tools become.
When your task of importing is complete and you are ready to play with iPhoto's features it may help to look at the iPhoto multimedia tutorial. Better organized than trying to read through the Help files, it can help you get acquainted with many of iPhoto's features.
Have fun.

Need help with interface development

Hi i need help with requirement below with developing interface between or online order system and sap plz lemme know what is bapi i use for creating customer, update and assigining partner id to costumer.
SAP Development
1.     Using standards SAP functional module (with BAPI), create interface that will create/change Ordering party customer in SAP. Following fields are mandatory for customer creation:
     MANDT     Client
     VKORG     Sales organization
     VTWEG     Distribution Channel
     SPART     Division
     KDGRP     Customer Group (= ZORP)
     KUNNR     Customer number
     NAME1     Name 1
     NAME 2     Name 2 (if required)
     SORTL     Search term (short description)
     ZZALTKN     Search term 2 (old customer number)
     LAND1     Country
     ORT01     City
     PSTLZ      Zip Code
     REGIO      Region (state in USA)
     STRAS     Street
     TELF1     Primary telephone number
     TELFX     Primary Fax number
     ZZPRPLANS     Payment Plan
     CCINS     Payment card: Card type
     CCNUM     Payment cards: Card number
     CCDEF     Payment Card: Default Card Indicator
     ZBDGID     Customer Budget ID
     ZHOLD     Budget Hold indicator
     ZZCOSTCENT     Cost Center
2.     Upon successful customer creation system will issues S (success) message that customer has been created.
3.     New ordering party customer created in step ½, will have to be assigned as new partner to its belonging Sold-to/Ship-to customer. Use standard SAP customer functional module in order to perform this partner ID assignment. Partner ID for ordering party should be ZO.
1.7     Enhancement Functionality
Apart from creating a new interface to do the required functionality, the Order Create Interface also has to be changed to accommodate a field to pass the Ordering Party Number on the Order. The technicalities of how we are going to implement the interface will be laid out in the Tech Specs.
Thanks
in advance

You have double posted, please mark this one as "solved on my own" and refer to this thread
need help with interface development
Regards,
Rich Heilman

Need help with Page Layout and Background Scaling

hello, everyone.
I am in the process of designing a new website for myself,
and while I was researching nicely designed pages to use as
inspiration, I stumbled upon this site:
http://www.jeffsarmiento.com/
obviously, the design is very impressive, but it also
incorporates a lot of web mechanics that I have been trying to
figure out, so I will use this page as an example.
one thing I need help with is backgrounds. as you can see in
the posted website, the creator used a seamlessly tiled paper
texture to display the bulk of his content on. also make not of the
pattern that is located to the left of the paper texture. how do I
create seamless backgrounds like this that will scale to fit any
amount of content or any resolution? I can't imagine that the guy
that made that site created a new size background every time he
made an update, so there has to be an easier way.
the second thing that I am having trouble with is general
site layout. I have read that most sites used series of invisible
tables to organize there content, but when I open the source of
this page in dreamweaver, he was using something different. div
tags? should I be using these? who do I use them? are there any
general layout tips that someone could pass on to me? perhaps a
link to a good tutorial?
please help me. i am very confused.
thanks so much.

IMO not a good site to emulate. To wit:
Top background image:
http://www.jeffsarmiento.com/images/bg-top.jpg;
745px
x 350px 137K
Main background image:
http://www.jeffsarmiento.com/images/bg-tile.jpg;
745px x 950px 130K
Total page size: 454K (Check here:
www.websiteoptimization.com)
Website usability experts routinely recommend a maximum page
size of ~80K
Check out the We We Scale @ www.FutureNowInc.com/wewe/ where
they suggest,
"You speak about yourself approximately 0,003 times as often
as you speak
about your customers. Might that have an impact on your
effectiveness?"
That is 100% consistent with the #1 Web Design mistake:
"Believing people
care about you and your web site." or to phrase more
expansively, "Our site
tries to tell you how wonderful we are as a company, but not
how we're going
to solve your problems."
www.sitepoint.com has some excellent books on making a
website actually
attractive and usable at the same time.
Walt
"beWILLdered_" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:[email protected]...
> hello, everyone.
> I am in the process of designing a new website for
myself, and while I was
> researching nicely designed pages to use as inspiration,
I stumbled upon
> this
> site:
>
http://www.jeffsarmiento.com/
> obviously, the design is very impressive, but it also
incorporates a lot
> of
> web mechanics that I have been trying to figure out, so
I will use this
> page as
> an example.
> one thing I need help with is backgrounds. as you can
see in the posted
> website, the creator used a seamlessly tiled paper
texture to display the
> bulk
> of his content on. also make not of the pattern that is
located to the
> left of
> the paper texture. how do I create seamless backgrounds
like this that
> will
> scale to fit any amount of content or any resolution? I
can't imagine that
> the
> guy that made that site created a new size background
every time he made
> an
> update, so there has to be an easier way.
> the second thing that I am having trouble with is
general site layout. I
> have
> read that most sites used series of invisible tables to
organize there
> content,
> but when I open the source of this page in dreamweaver,
he was using
> something
> different. div tags? should I be using these? who do I
use them? are there
> any
> general layout tips that someone could pass on to me?
perhaps a link to a
> good
> tutorial?
> please help me. i am very confused.
>
> thanks so much.
>

PSE7 Problem with Organizer - Folder Location Display

I keep encountering a wierd error and don't know why or how it is happening. I like to use this view I file pictures on my hard this way and this matches those files and then I can tag, make an album, etc. Sometimes the pictures that are in a file (on my hard drive) will for some reason (or after some event) not show up in the Folder Locations display with the same file name. Make sense? They will show in the file name below the folder they should be in and so on. For example I have 400 pictures from a recent trip to Trinidad in a Trinidad 2009 folder on my hard drive. When I had put these in to PSE7, they showed up in the catalog view in Trinidad 2009 because I made it a watch folder. Now they show up in another folder, the one below it. It is like every folder shifted down. I understand they are still in the same location on my hard drive. There seems to be some bug or error in PSE7 organizer. Can anyone help with this?

Folder Location view is quite buggy; see this FAQ:
http://www.johnrellis.com/psedbtool/photoshopelements-6-7-faq.htm#_Folder_Location_view

Help with Organizer

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