I NEED Firefox 3.6.25 for my MacBook Pro. The ftp site is gone. How can I get it? I can't upgrade because of my processor.
The night that Firefox apparently stopped distributing Firefox for Mac 3.6.25, I had a computer crash that corrupted my copy of 3.6.25. I tried to go to the FTP site to get another copy to reload (using Safari) and the FTP site is apparently gone and Firefox will not let me download that version of Firefox. I'm limping along on Safari and can't update even my corrupted version of 3.6.25 because my processor won't support further updates. I NEED 3.6.25! Is there anyplace that I can get it? What can I do? My corrupted version of Firefox 3.6.25 doesn't work correctly. It opens improperly and doesn't work when it does open.
Hi,
You can try the latest in the [https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/all-older.html 3.6 series] which is still supported.
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Check this site for parts and prices:
http://www.ifixit.com/
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Need a Leather Messenger bag for 17" Macbook Pro .. any suggestions?
Need a Leather Messenger bag for 17" Macbook Pro .. any suggestions?
I cant seem to find a nice one .. I am traveling soon and would like to have it before I go away ....
I would like something with some protection and ... something stylish ...
I have had a hard time finding a nice one ...There is a difference technically between this iStorage unit and the Cal Digit stuff. Cal Digit includes a hardware raid controller, and removable drives. The iStorage Pro unit relies on your computer's CPU to control the raid... so will tax things like render times... plus just to play a software raid can take as much as 30% of your CPU's cycles to do it...
That said, it may not matter if you're working in lower resolution files, or lower data rate stuff, either company makes great gear though. Both are intended for use with video systems. But ya do get something for the extra money on the CalDigit gear.
But if all you want to use it for is backup of data... anybody's drives would do this... doesn't have to be a raid either. Single FW drives will certainly hold the data as backup even if they won't play it without dropping frames.
OH, and Colorado... join the Denver FCP User Group... http://www.dfcpug.com We meet at the Colorado Film School in Denver on a monthly basis.
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Message was edited by: Jerry Hofmann -
I lost my install dvd for my Macbook pro 17" 2.53 i5. How can I get that?
I lost my install dvd for my Macbook pro 17" 2.53 i5. How can I get that?
You can get replacement System Install & Restore CD/DVDs from Apple's Customer Support - in the US, (800) 767-2775 - for a nominal S&H fee.
You'll need to have the model and/or serial number of your Mac available.
If you're not in the US, you may need to go through the regional Apple Store that serves your location to find the contact number. Here's a list of links to all of those - http://store.apple.com/Catalog/US/Images/intlstoreroutingpage.html Another resource: International Support Phone #s. -
I recently purchased an Apple TV box & the App for Apple TV from the Apple store. Now how do I get it to work? I am a card-carrying technological imbecile.
If I'm understanding correctly, you have an Apple TV 2 (the small, black box version of the Apple TV), and downloaded the Remote App from the iTunes Store for your iPod Touch/iPhone/iPad, correct? If so...
For the AppleTV setup, hook it up to your television and, if applicable, your Surround Sound system. To do this, you'll use an HDMI cable (not included, available here) to hook the AppleTV to your Television. The cable only fits one way, and should slide effortlessly into place. If, and only if, you intend to use your surround sound system with the AppleTV, you will also need what's called a TOSLINK Optical Cable (also not included, available here). This cable goes from the AppleTV to a port labelled Optical In or Digital In on the back of your surround receiver (consult the manual that came with your surround sound system for additonal help).
From here on, we'll focus on hooking up the AppleTV, then how to setup the Remote App from Apple on your iOS device.
The AppleTV needs a network connection in order to function correctly. A wired connection is recommended, but Wi-Fi is built-in to the AppleTV if a wired connection isn't available. With the AppleTV plugged into your television, follow the on-screen instructions for setup. To connect the AppleTV to your Wi-Fi network, you'll need to know the name of the network you want to connect to, as well as any password needed to connect to it. When the AppleTV has a network connection, it'll load the latest selection of TV Shows, Movies and Music for display on the main menu - that's the easiest way to tell everything's working.
For the Remote App, all you need to do is download the free application to a compatible iOS device (Any iOS device running iOS 3.1.2 or higher). Once downloaded, go to the computer hosting your iTunes library, and turn on Home Sharing. Finally, start the Remote App on your iOS device (be it iPhone, iPad, or iPod Touch), login with the same information you setup Home Sharing with, and away you go! The Remote App is entirely optional, since the AppleTV can be controlled by the included remote control, but it's a nice touch nonetheless.
I hope this answered your question, or at least helped put you on the path to success. If you need something clarified, please don't hesitate to ask here. -
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Do I need to buy extra cable for my macbook pro 2011 and cintiq 12WX?
Hi every one,
I want to buy a cintiq 12wx for my macbook pro 2011 and just wondering if i need to buy extra cable to connect them together. Thank you very much for your responses.For output from your MBP, you will need to tap either the DVI, mini display port or Thunderbolt port, depending on its age/model. This will connect to the cintiq 12wx via whatever input configuration that they have. I do not know if they supply and cables or not. If it is a VGA input, there are a multitude of adapters available. OWC or Newegg would be good sources to get the proper cables or adapters.
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I just ran my updates for my MacBook Pro and now my iphoto won't open. I get a pop up that say's You can't use this version of the applicaton IPhoto with this version of os x. You have iphoto 9.2.3.
This screenshot shows which previous versions of iPhoto are compatible with Mavericks. It also indicates which versions qualify for a free upgrade to iPhoto 9.5.1 and which require a purchase:
Note 1: every day more users are reporting problems with iPhoto 8.1.2 so I've included it in the non compatible category.
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Do I need antivirus and firewall software for my MacBook Pro?
New to the world of Mac. Just purchased MacBook Pro notebook. Will be using for basic personal use (internet browsing, sending and receiving e-mails, MySpace activity, and using Final Cut Express for creating videos). Do I need to purchase and install third party antivirus and firewall software? I see some information in the discussion forum that this is not really necessary with Mac/Leopard OS X.
Also tried to search Apple site to see if Apple "recommended" certain antivirus software, but could not find anything specific in that regard.
If antivirus software is recommended for use, would like to hear what other users recommend for purchase. ThanksKrwest
Welcome to the world of Mac - I hope you will like it here
I came from the Windows world some years ago and have never regretted the switch - on the contrary. I love the ease of use, stability and security of OS X.
There are a lot of opinions regarding whether you should use antivirus and/or third party firewall on a Mac.
I was used to having all the security I could, so to speak, on my Windows machines, and with good reason - my antivirus program stopped "nasties" on more than one occasion.
With OS X I have never quite felt the need to install antivirus. One reason for this is that there are very few, if any, viruses or other "nasties" in the wild for OS X. Another is that OS X works differently from Windows and is less vulnerable (but not invulnerable!).
Regarding firewall, I have found OS X own firewall to be sufficient since I also have a router with built in firewall on my network.
That said, there are those who suggest that we should install an antivirus program if most of those we communicate with run Windows. This is in order to avoid unintentionally spreading viruses to them, viruses that may not affect us but might affect a Windows machine.
In addition, OS X in not invulnerable, and there are those who think Apple might be more open to peoples interest in writing "nasties" for OS X if the market shares increase enough. Then again - it is all speculation and no one knows what the future brings.
I am very security conscious, but would tend to agree with those who suggest that a third party firewall and an antivirus program is not strictly necessary.
Should you still want to have added security, I would suggest antivirus and stick to OS X own firewall.
Two excellent antivirus programs for OS X are ClamAVX (free) and Intego VirusBarrier X5 (pay) (Intego also has firewall and anti-spam solutions). They put little strain on the computer and are considered among the best.
http://www.clamxav.com/
http://www.intego.com/
All the best,
Espen -
I just purchased my Macbook Pro so it is brand new and I will only use my laptop for everyday use at college. So do I need extra protection for it and if I do what do you recomend.
1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav— nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to catch some terrible disease every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have a false sense of safety. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then also feel free to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices. -
I need a new Delete key for my MacBook Pro
My daughter ripped my delete key off my MacBook Pro and I need a new one. Anyone know where to get one from and how much they would be? Thanks!
Do a Google search or call an Apple store or an AASP. Ask them about the cost.
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I am about to buy a 13" MacBook Pro with 256 GB SSD. I want a Windows partition set up. What size should it be, and can I load Win XP Pro or does it need to be Win 7 or 8?
You can use XP but it has to be in a Virtual Machine and OS X as the host instead of as a dual boot system with XP in its own partition. That is how I run Windows on my Mac, in a Virtual Machine.
Take a look at VritualBox from Oracle. It's free and works very well. -
My ipad 2 is wont turn on. I held the sleep/wake button down for 15 seconds and the battery image shows up for a second then the screen goes blank. Help!
What to Do When Your iPad Won't Turn On
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/ss/What-To-Do-When-Your-Ipad-Wo-No t-Turn-On.htm
iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3281
iPad Frozen? How to Force Quit an App, Reset or Restart Your iPad
http://ipadacademy.com/2010/11/ipad-frozen-how-to-force-quit-an-app-reset-or-res tart-your-ipad
iPad: Basic troubleshooting
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3274
Cheers, Tom -
I have recently been purchasing Books in Digital formats (which come compressed) and I am not able to un-Zip them.
I have used WinZip in the past (I'm a former Windows user) but I hear that this program isn't very good on a Mac...any recommendations?
I am running Mac OS 10.6.8
Processor: 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Available Storage: 212.02 GB
The last Zip program I downloaded to my system was Zipeg and it LITTERED my system (no joke, I had to go to the Genius Bar to have everything removed).Mac OS X actually has a built-in ZIP tool that can both unzip files and zip files. However older versions of OS X do not cope well with password protected zip files and it maybe some of your zip files also use newer options your old operating systems correspondingly old zip tool does not support.
I would therefore echo the suggestion of Illaass and recommend you get the free Stuffit Expander tool.
For what its worth you now can actually buy a version of WinZip for the Mac, see http://www.winzip.com/mac/en/index.html I have not used it as I find the built-in zip tool in newer OS X versions along with Stuffit Expander sufficient. I have also written an Automator workflow which allows me to create password protected zip files. -
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I'm experiencing a problem related to my optical drive. It keeps on ejecting my CD or DVD from my drive. My mode number is a Matshita dvd-r uj-898
You can check here: http://www.adobe.com/products/flash/about/ to see which version you should install for your Mac and OS.
You should first uninstall any previous version of Flash Player, using the uninstaller from here (make sure you use the correct one!):
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/909/cpsid_90906.html
and also that you follow the instructions closely, such as closing ALL applications (including Safari) first before installing. You must also carry out a permission repair after installing anything from Adobe.
After installing, reboot your Mac and relaunch Safari, then in Safari Preferences/Security enable ‘Allow Plugins’.
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