IMac pram battery holder broke

My pram battery holder broke when replacing batt on 2007 24" alum iMac . The black plastic tab on the right came off so now the battery won't stay seated. Is there an easy fix?

I was able to use a folded piece of business card to wedge the battery in place.

Similar Messages

Intel iMac PRAM battery replacement

Can anyone point me at some instructions for replacing the PRAM battery in an early intel iMac please?

It is a coin battery, 3 V Lithium (922-6476), and requires opening the case to get to it. I cannot find a teardown photo sequence that shows how to replace it. Nor do I find the battery pointed out in any of the tears downs available at ifixit.com.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Device/iMacIntel17%22
Dah•veed

IMac PRAM battery

I have a slot-loading iMac G3-400 and I have been unable to find what type of PRAM battery it uses. I looked up the specs in the Apple support area but it just says 3.6 Volt Lithium. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
-Joe

Here is a picture of the battery that you need.
http://eshop.macsales.com/item-specials/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
Here here is a form article on replacing a slot loader battery.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7871692&#7871692

Clip on PRAM Battery broke

My iMac EMC 2105 is set up more like a G5 inside, except with Intel clips. In trying to change the PRAM Battery the other day, I busted the clip. SO is there any hope of getting this fixed, or can I get a McGuyver like fix, like electric tape, rubber bands, anything?

The metal clip holding the battery in broke off. The rest of the metal is still inside the black plastic ring, but not enough to hold anything.
There's a little bit of an opening next to the remaining metal. I'm considering trying to wedge some copper wire down there and fashion a new clip to hold the battery in. Otherwise, I may try some JB Weld. Or I could just forget it. Will that eventually ruin my logic board?

How do you change the pram battery on a slot loading iMac?

I'm hopeful that a new pram battery will solve the problems I've been having with my iMac. I just have to put it in, and judging by the correspondence I've seen on this subject, that's not an easy job. (One letter spoke of having to remove 16 screws) Does anyone know of a site that gives instructions complete with illustrations for changing the battery? It seems silly to have to take my set to a repair shop to change the battery, but I don't feel up to removing 16 screws without very clear instructions.

Hello,
So far, so good. My computer started after I changed
the battery, however, I can't be sure until tomorrow
morning because my set was still warm when I started
it. Tomorrow is the acid test. I'll let you, and
everyone else who has tried to help me, then.
Glad to hear that you survived, and that it seems to be working
Let us know what you find tomorrow.
A few comments: Whatever happens, this experience
will give me more courage for the future. I now know
that I can open my computer without breaking
anything--anything important, that is.
That's always a good thing
Possible problem: After putting in the new battery, I
noticed a loose black wire with a metal tip right
next to the battery.
Interesting...
The only thing I could think of that might look like that might be the Airport antenna.
But, it could be something else. Without pictures, it would be hard to really guess at it.
I hadn't noticed it before, so I
don't know if I might have accidentally unplugged it
from where it should be. Anyway, just to be sure, I
wrapped the metal tip with scotch tape to insulate it
in case it comes in contact with a metal part.
Was it attached to the logic board (the main circuit board which your battery was on)? Or, was it coming from somewhere inside the computer's case?
Any idea or description of where it's other end was attached?
I hate to tell you this now, but electrical tape would have been a better choice for insulating it. It's still possible for electrical current to pass through scotch-tape.
A small, white polyethene? part fell out during my
activities. I can only hope that it's not essential.
Without a description, it's hard to say what that might have been.
Does it look like a bracket? If so, it may have gone around one of the connectors around the CD-ROM drive connectors, or one of the other cables you disconnected.
Otherwise, if it doesn't appear to have a function, it might just be a piece of broken plastic.
If it's flat and rectangular, it could also be a cap that goes over the battery. But, those are usually black with a couple of tabs to hold it in-place.
Also, it looks like two small,flat, grayish tabs got
snapped off the bottom panel when I removed it.
That happens sometimes. I was fortunate with my system. I've opened it many times without breaking anything (yet).
I didn't find the job to be easy, but maybe that's
because I was stresed out during the whole operation.
Yes, that doesn't help.
Fear was the problem. I was afraid that I might touch
the wrong part, I was afraid that I might drop a
screw ito the computer, I was afraid that I was going
to break the bottom panel in the process of removing
it, etc. The most difficult step was replacing the
heat shield. For a while, I thought that I would have
to give up and just attach it as best I could.
Glad to hear it all went back together.
Hopefully the extra parts and cable were not important. I would feel better figuring out what they were if it were my machine. But, it's up to you if you want to delve back in there and try and figure it out.
Well, that's a summary of Niku's excellent adventure
in the computer repair world. Tomorrow I'll know if I
was successful. Wish me luck.
Thank you for the update. I hope all goes well and continues working for you.
Be sure to tell us what you find out in the morning.
Let us know if you have other questions.
P.S., if you'd like, go ahead and click the "Helpful" or "Solved" buttons on any of the posts / replies above if you feel they were helpful or adequately answered your question.

PRAM battery for iMac 333MHz

I have be trying to upgrade a iMac 333 MHz from 8.6 to 9.2.2
I am up to 9.1 but need to connect to my dsl to do the 82MB download.
I have been moving the iMac around to different electrical outlets now the iMac will not start up.
The date and time each time went to 1956 so I am thinking it is the PRAM battery right?
Does anyone know the type of PRAM battery I need to replace? I do not have the manual or tech specs...
JTS

http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86181 Macintosh Family: Batteries and Part Numbers.
Radio Shack's battery# is 23-026. It is a 3.6V Lithium 850mAh1/2 "AA" battery made for Apple computers.
Mac 3.6 Volt Battery

Directions for changing pram battery on imac DV

Hi,
A friend of mine has an imac 400 DV slot loader with a dead pram battery. I look after this computer for them but have never changed the battery on one of these. Can anyone give me directions and/or photos? I've had a look through older questions but the links all seem to be out of date.
Thanks,
James

This Macworld article has photos that illustrate removal of the bottom housing and EMI shield, to access the motherboard for upgrades. Some experienced users have been able to replace the battery, by accessing it through the memory door on the bottom. This involves the risk of letting it slip out of your fingers and then having to maneuver/tilt the iMac about, to remove the loose battery. Prior to removal, you should note the battery's orientation as to polarity (marked on the motherboard).

Replace PRAM battery in in Intel core2 duo iMac?

I have just installed the iStat widget in my Intel Core2 Duo 2.16 Ghz iMac. I was a little surprised to see a battery level reading on it (of 45%). I wonder if it is measuring the remaining life of the PRAM battery. Remembering how badly my Powermac and my wife's G5 iMac behaved when their back-up batteries needed replacing, I want to avoid the same situation on my Intel iMac. However I can find nothing on Apple support for replacing the PRAM/back-up battery on an Intel iMac, so I am wondering if there is a replaceable battery or not. Anyone know?
Thanks
Wilson

From iSlayer Battery Section:
This section shows various information about your Mac’s battery. This section is only visible if you actually have a battery and won’t appear on desktops.
Percentage
The current battery charge as a percentage. This is also shown as a bar at the bottom of the section.
Time
Time left using the battery, time until charged, or “Charged” if the battery is fully charged.
Source
“AC” if the Mac is connected to mains power, or “Battery” if the battery is being used.
Status
This shows if the battery is charged, charging or draining.
Battery Health
This is a comparison between your current battery capacity and capacity of it when it was new. For example, if your battery lasted 5 hours when it was new, a figure of 50% suggests you should get 2.5 hours out of your battery now.
Cycles
The amount of battery “cycles” the battery has had. One cycle is defined as a complete discharge and charge of the battery, but partial discharge and charges also count. So, two half discharge and charges are the same as one complete discharge.
For some tips on how to get the most out of your laptop’s battery, please visit this Apple support page.
Message was edited by: lakewoodlawnman

How to replace an PRAM battery?? IMac g3 9.1 "Bondi Blue"

I think that my PRAM battery is dead. Can anyone give me instructions to replace it? I have a full working battery from an older computer lying around somewhere...

Hi, Ben -
Replacing the battery in early iMacs can be tricky. You would probably get a quicker directed response if you reposted this question in one of the hardware forums for the iMac G3 models. The most appropriate would probably be this one, the Using your iMac G3 (CRT) forum -
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=888
Not all computers use the same battery. This Apple KBase article cross references battery part numbers with models -
http://support.apple.com/kb/TA21569

Dead iMac G3 suddenly won't power on. PRAM battery or Power Supply?

iMac G3 350 slot load USB only running 10.4.11
i love this little guy.
it's been running almost non stop for a few years as a file server... only restarted maybe a dozen times during that period. i can't remember ever shutting it down.
i had to move it recently. might have been unplugged from a wall socket for a minute or so. plugged it back in but left it powered off for a few days.
went to turn it on recently and nothing. not a chime, not a light, not a click or hard drive spin-up. zero. pushed the PMU reset button once. still nothing. i've taken the PRAM battery out for now.
my question is this: is it possible the power supply is dead and a PRAM battery will not fix the iMac? is there any way to tell before spending money on a new battery i may not need?
thanks!

Hello Nicholas,
I recently retired my hard working 350 slot so I know how great the computer can be.
Unplugging for a moment should not have affected the battery.
I would respectfully suggest you start with the simple things such as:
1. - Make certain the power source is not on a switch and that it is good
2. - Be certain the power chord is fully seated in the back of the computer and wall socket.
3. - If trying to start from the keyboard button, try using the button on the face of the computer
perhaps the keyboard is not fully plugged into the usb port.
I always like to start with the simple things when I have a problem.
Now that the battery is removed it could cause a bit of a problem. I think I would install the battery
and check the above mentioned ideas. If still no power, then I would replace the battery.
It doesn;t seem logical that the power supply would just go as a result of the board.
I would try to get the computer up and running.
One last tip.......when my slot load was starting to go it acted odd. I would let the computer sit for a day or two and it would then start. It was irratic at best but the old computer allowed me a few last
boots so that I could back up to my external.
It is a great computer and sounds like it served you well it deserves a few chances.
I hope you replace the battery, plug and it re-starts. Keep it plugged in once the battery is replaced/returned .....Best of Luck Jim

Does a 12" PowerBook have a PRAM battery on the logic board?

We got an 867MHz 12" Aluminum PowerBook in today that doesn't seem to want to hold PRAM values any longer than 5 minutes. It doesn't seem to matter if it's plugged in and using the AC adapter as the source or the battery (as long as it's charged, of course ).
I've gone through the typical battery of tests, like removing the Airport, add-on RAM, etc. but the problems persist. To get the item to boot, I've been repeatedly resetting the PMU (shift-option-command + power button) followed by a PRAM reset (option-command-P-R + power button) and eventually it will chime and start to boot. I suspect that I can end up isolating this to a specific set of steps. One of the oddities I've noticed is that when doing this, the power isn't actually off. For example, if I do the PRAM reset, the item will appear to be dead, but if I hit the caps lock key it's clear that the power is still on.
Once the item boots, I can power it on and off, and it will reboot, as long as I don't let it sit any more than 5 minutes. If I let it sit 5 minutes or more, then I need to go through this whole reset game again.
I've seen stuff like this happen on PCs that often have ROM/PROM batteries installed (sometimes removable, sometimes soldered to the board) that retain system settings. There seems to be something that looks like one of these batteries installed on this motherboard, but none of Apple's tech repair manuals reference replacing it, and it almost looks like its welded to a connector, but then again I'm not sure it's even a battery.
So the question is: Does this motherboard have a PRAM battery on it that's failing? If there is one, is there a replacement or replacement kit available, or am I barking up the wrong tree all together?
Thanks in advance.

From what I can tell, this device uses a "mega capacitor" to maintain the charge on the memory. It looks almost like a battery that I put into one of my old cameras. This capacitor sits between the trackpad and the optical drive. The owner of this system did a DVD upgrade himself and it appears in the process he actually knocked this capacitor off it's base on the mother board. It superficially APPEARS to be connected because there's a bar on the top end of the capacitor soldered to the motherboard that's holding it in place, but the bottom end broke off the motherboard.
The boss of our company theorizes as follows:
1. The PRAM and NVRAM has a high impedance, and when the mega capacitor is properly connected and without power, the discharge rate based on the RC time constant is very long (probably weeks...maybe months).
2. When power is turned off it's the duty of this effective RC network to maintain PRAM and NVRAM since the discharge rate is so slow.
3. With this capacitor busted off, the only capacitance that exists in the circuit is likely that of RF bypass capacitors and any other capacitors that may be used to filter out the supply. Since these are likely much, much lower in value the RC time constant becomes minutes instead of days/weeks/months.
I think this is a good theory for the following reasons:
1. If the unit sits, powered off, for any amount of time greater than 3-4 minutes and it's powered up, the unit comes on, but the CPU doesn't start processing. The optical media initializes, the caps lock key will light, and if you listen closely to the unit you can hear stuff running....but the CPU doesn't start. The conjecture is that the all PRAM/NVRAM parameters have been lost and when the CPU starts it sees nothing there and hence, does nothing. The unit is actually running, it just doesn't do anything.
2. If the unit sits, powered off, for any amount of time greater than 3-4 minutes, the following process will allow it to start up:
a. Turn the power on and leave it on for about 2-3 minutes. This is the dysfunctional state identified above, but what seems to be happening is that the effective RC network is being charged.
b. After several minutes, turn the unit off and then immediately turn it on.
c. The unit boots successfully.
d. We can turn the unit off, and turn it on again, and it will successfully boot as long as we do it relatively quickly (within a minute or two), but if it's left off more than that then the "game" identified in steps a-c must be repeated.
To me this implies the unit relies completely on the "mega-capacitor" to retain voltage on the PRAM/NVRAM. It sort of makes sense because the equivalent impedance of a battery is low compared to that of the RAM chips and it would have the effect of limiting the RC time constant needed for the unit to retain it's PRAM/NVRAM parameters for a very long period of time. That isn't to say the battery isn't supplying anything to the unit when power is off...it may very well be, but I suspect it simply isn't doing it to this circuit.
Does this theory make sense?

Replaced PRAM battery, now G$ Quicksilver won't power up

I replaced the pram battery. Now my G4 Quicksilver will not power up. The light is on in front of the computer, as well as on the front of the monitor. However, pressing, pressing and holding for many seconds does nothing. No sounds--nada.
I bought an iMac, and want to use the G4 in target mode to transfer files, and then set up a wireless network. I have no clue as to where to start, since the computer is dead with its lights on.

Did you click on the blue text above?
Here it is again:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86760
Click the above blue text.
As you read the article that opened, towards the bottom, click "For Power Mac G4" to see model specific pictures.

Computer clock resets to 1969. PRAM battery probably not the issue.

I have a PowerMac G4 mirrored doors computer running Tiger 10.4.11 that occasionally starts up with that error message saying: "Your computer's clock is set to a date before March 24th, 2001. This may cause some applications to behave erratically."
I know all about resetting the PRAM, resetting the NVRAM, and replacing a weak, or expired battery. I've read the relevant posts on the subject, in which well-intentioned guides say that the problem is "usually" or "generally" related to the PRAM battery. Well, I wish it could be that simple, because I have already had a new battery installed, and the problem continues. It is intermittent; it's been occurring for about six months now; and it persists.
I seek technical assistance and successful, problem-solving suggestions that go beyond merely suggesting that I zap the PRAM or replace the battery.
If there are potential SOFTWARE problems, please direct me to those potentially damaged files. None of the disk utilities that I have used—including Disk Warrior, TechTool Pro, OnyX, Cocktail, or Drive Genius— find anything wrong with my hard drive or the files on it. No corrupted resources are reported. Additionally, Intego's Virus Barrier finds no infected files either.
However, a FileBuddy search of files modified before 3/25/2001 finds several dozen files with improbable dates of 12/31/1969 or 1/1/1970. Fewer files dated 12/31/1969 occur after I go to the Date/Time preferences pane and reset the clock to the current date/time and then restart my computer, especially in regards to system-related files. Nonetheless, several dozen files with a 12/31/1969 still remain, even after the date/time reset and the system restart.
I do not know if any of those pre-historic files are playing a role in this chronic problem, so I offer that information for the technically more astute to ponder upon and factor in to any solutions which might be offered. I have read posts where someone might suggest a re-install of Tiger, but the original poster almost always reports that re-installing Tiger did not eliminate problem, so I would prefer suggestions that rely on a scalpel rather than a sledge hammer.
If someone suspects that there may be hardware problem, I would like to hear theories along that line, too, although I am unlikely to consider gutting the hardware items just to retain the attractive computer case. Even though I do have other computers (an iMac G5 and a MacBook Pro), the PowerMac G4 is my preferred workhorse, and it is the only one configured to run Final Cut Pro (version 4.5; I can't afford to upgrade now), so I want to keep it functional without a major investment into an older machine.
When the computer clock problem first reared its irritating head several months ago, it was accompanied with kernel crashes that turned out to be related to the nVidia video card. I brought the machine in to a local shop, because it was refusing to power on. They installed a new battery to replace the original, probably weak original battery, and they replaced the probably defective nVidia video card with a used nVidia card I found on eBay. The shop also claimed that I needed to replace the motherboard and the power supply to ensure that the G4 would power on and that it would present a desktop without the warning message about the computer clock being set to 12/31/1969.
I decided to reject their assessment, since the whole repair job would have amounted to about $1,100. It seemed like an excessive solution. Since taking the G4 back about three months ago with only the new battery and the replacement video card installed, the computer has powered on every single time without fail, which, to my non-technician mind, would appear to indicate that the power supply is OK. However, I do still get an occasional warning about the computer clock being set to a date before March 24th, 2001.
I do not have the technical expertise or repair knowledge to know if the problem is hardware-related, software-related, power supply-related, or a complex interaction between all of them. If someone can suggest a permanent fix to eliminate the computer clock error problem WITHOUT requiring me to make a major investment in repairing or replacing hardware components, that would be ideal. On the other hand, if this clock problem is merely is an irritant, but not a sign of something more serious or expensive, then I am willing to live with it and get around the problem by going through the steps of resetting the clock when required and then restarting the computer with a correctly set clock.
My main goal, of course, is to have a reliable, stable computer. If it costs too much to eliminate the computer clock irritation on a permanent basis, then I am willing to live with the problem, as long as its presence does not disrupt my work flow. In that case, I would appreciate it if someone could explain what might be going on, so that I know what to expect and what to do about it.
I hope this is sufficient information with which to make a diagnosis and recommendation. If not, ask for more. Thanks.
bowlerboy

Short answer =
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
======================================================================
Long answer =
Thanks, BDAqua, for offering your help. I'm not exactly new to these forums, but somehow my previous contributions have all been wiped out, so I've restarted under a new account name.
I've had my G4 MDD for five years, and it's always been quite stable for me, so I'm not quite sure that this model is "cantankerous." I do find the computer clock error message irritating, though, so it would be nice to know the source of the problem and its permanent solution.
Since my original posting, I elected not to Shut Down the G4 to see what would happen. It functioned just fine since then, allowing me to create some short Final Cut Pro movies as Christmas presents to family members. With one exception, all other applications also functioned without problems. The only problem I'm encountering has to do with H-P Photosmart Studio, an application bundled with the HP All-in-one model C7280. It will not settle down to work, forcing me to Force Quit it every time. Since that app works fine on my iMac G5, I decided to trouble-shoot it by reinstalling the HP software, a process that requires me to Shut Down. (If possible, I want to see if the problem is with the HP software, or with Tiger on my G4.)
However, before I can get even get to trouble-shooting the HP Photosmart, the G4 gives me that computer clock error upon re-boot. In the past, the Date & Time error message has appeared upon a cold reboot, no matter whether I had reset the Date & Time in the preference pane via the Network clock or manually. However, I never conducted my tests in conjunction with disconnecting the A/C power cable. So, I decided to try the the test you suggested. Here are my observations and the results of the test.
1) Upon Shut Down, cool down, and restart, I get the computer clock error message mentioned at the beginning of my original post, telling me that my clock is set to a earlier date.
2) When I open the Date & Time preferences pane, however, the date and time shown there (as well as on the Finder's menu bar) is current.
3) The Network setting was ON, so, to comply with this test, I unchecked the "Set date & time automatically" box. I do not need to reset date and time manually, because, as I mentioned they ARE set correctly, even though the message I got upon restart said that they are not. (If memory serves me correctly, though, the Date & Time panel would actually show 12/31/69 as the computer clock's read-out, so this discrepancy is somehow connected to this problem. )
4) I shut down the G4 for 2 hours, and I disconnected all cables and plugs to it, including A/C power.
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting.
6) I take screen captures of the error message and the menu bar: both .PNG files are time-stamped as of 12/31/1969 at around 7:01 PM.
7) I will now reset the clock to the current Date and Time by turning the Network time feature back on, so I can get on with my work while the trouble-shooting process continues.
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
If it's a software problem, then should I do I clean install of Tiger? If I do that, is there any evidence that a clean install will do any good to eradicate the problem?
On the other hand, if this is a hardware issue, is it contained to merely being an irritant that I can fix merely by adjusting the Date & Time whenever the problem occurs (which I can live with, as long as the system is stable after that fix), or is this error message regarding a sign of something more ominous failing on the motherboard?
bowlerboy

What's easier? Replacing pram battery or hard drive and dvd drive?

I have a dead imac g4 flat panel with all my files and a dvd drive. I have a working imac same year, same processor but with only a cd drive.
First, I want my files.
Then, I wouldn't mind keeping one of them as a dvd player.
Would appreciate any suggestions!
(I don't actually know if it is the battery or power supply which is dead.)

My experiences lately with my NEW (to me) 20" iMac G4.
1.25 GHZ PPC 1 GB RAM 160 GB HDD
Purchased on eBay in the orginal box for $349.00 delivered.
When the computer arrive it appeared to be in excellent shape. It turned on and operated without any problems. I really purchased as a project, and intended to restore to as NEW as possible. The iMac arrive with the usual specification for the model (born on date 3/2004). Specification were 1.25 GHZ PPC, 1GB RAM 512/slot.
So I purchased some parts to get started (like I said above everything worked).
1. OWC RAM 1GB/slot for a total of 2BG's ($55.98/Free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/2700DDRS1GBA/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/2700DDR1024/
2. OWC PRAM battery ($3.99/free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAA36VPRAM/
3. OWC LG internal Optical Drive ($45.99/free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/optical-drives/superdrives/imac/g4
4. IOGEAR Bluetooth (ver 2.1) Adapter (USB 2.0 Micro) ($13.99/free shipping)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833139019
5. Apple Wireless Magic Mouse (had a spare)
6. Apple USB Keyboard (newest) (had a spare)
Before installing the parts I cleaned out the dust and grim (nasty dirty), removed the Fan and cleaned (nasty dirty), I also removed the Thermal Grease and applied new Thermal Grease (used Artic Silver 5 Thermal Compound). I used a powerful vaccum and a air compressor (120 psi), and damp Q-Tips.
On the outter shell and back of monitor I used SoftScrub/Bleach lite scrub and then rinsed with a damp cotton rag (looks brand NEW). Was sure to remove ALL of the SoftScrub.
On the screen I used iKlear and a iKlear cleaning cloth, screen is in MINT condition.
Honestly the computer looks and operates much better than I had anticipated.
I really didn't need to install a new Optical drive in the 20" but it was a cheap upgrade. And so. I have a iMac G4 17" with the same spec's as the 20" iMac so I opted to install the 20" iMac's Optical drive in the 17" iMac. The 17" would only play CD'd and not DVD's.
After putting everything back together I installed Leopard 10.5.6, then upgraded to 10.5.8. I installed Quicktime 7.7 for Leopard and iTunes 10.6.3. Installed iLife09 (no iMovie), iWorks09, Superduper (latest), and Disk Warrior 4.4,
I chose not to upgrade the HDD simple because it is working fine and I don't have any critical information stored on it.
My final upgrade would be to install a new FAN but I'll wait on that for a while. Since the Fan operates fine it does have a very, very slight whine meaning the bearings are starting to wear a bit. Probably because of the dirt and grime that was on there from before.
I would like to buy a NEW Fan to install but right now the only option is to buy a Apple Fan (part# 622-6215). I wouldn't mind a non OEM Fan but the little fins on the side of the Fan's walls are a concern for proper air flow.
http://www.welovemacs.com/9226215.html ($69.95 + $4.50 shipping).

Hard drive 6 gb/s and PRAM battery questions

I have two questions:
1) Does iMac Core Duo 20'' (early 2006 first intel model) support 6 gb/s hard drive (I recently bought a WESTERN DIGITAL Sata III 6 Gb / s buffer 64 Mb 7200 rpm)? when I will upgrade my hard drive it will recognize 6 gb/s speed data transfer? or it will recognize lesser?
2) Can I use any 3V Lithium CR2032 coin Battery as PRAM battery replacement on my iMac? I know that its 3V CR2032 from Mactracker or nay other sites from internet, but I would like to know if I can use a battery from any brand or shoul I get the exact same of the one apple use?
thanks!

1.5 Gb/s is the controller transfer speed for that model. SATA 3 at 6 Gb/s didn't arrive until after those computers were produced. SATA 2 can be jumpered down to 1.5 Gb/s (WD SATA 2 drives will use jumpers on pins 5&6), which you may or may not have to do, depending on the drive.
Not a guess. The WD drive you bought won't work.
You don't need the ridiculously overpriced Apple battery.
Specs here.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/stats/imac_cd_2.0_20.html

IMac pram battery holder broke

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