Logic 8: Time jumping from 59 mins to 2hrs

I am having a problem with the project timing in the bar ruler. When I reach 59.59 mins the time suddenly jumps to 2.00.00. As I often work with projects about 2hrs long, and the incorrect readout is both annoying and causing problems saving. I have reinstalled 2 times already however this problem will not go away.

What is the deal with this new CAF formant anyway? Is it just smaller file size? Are there any downsides to it?
Have any upgrades melded the Legacy in with the Logic 8 instruments for the sake of convenience when searching for instruments? I was thinking I would do that, but than wondered if that would make it extra tedious somehow when the next Logic came out.

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Timer countdown from 5 mins

Does anyone know how to create a timer that counts down from
5 minutes? I have been able to create one that counts down from 60
seconds, however when u go below 10 seconds it doesn't have a value
such as 09 it only displays 9. I also can't get the timer to
restart after every minute has passed. Here is a sample of my code
which i have placed in a frame script:-
global gvGameTimeSeconds, gvGameTimeMinutes
on enterFrame
the floatprecision = 2
gvGameTimeMinutes = 5
gvGameTimeSeconds = 00
on exitFrame me
the floatprecision = 2
gvGameTimeMinutes = 4
gvGameTimeSeconds = 59-(the timer/59)
put gvGameTimeSeconds into field "seconds"
if 59-(the timer/59) > 0 then
go to the frame
else
go to the frame+1
end if
if gvGameTimeSeconds = 00 then
gvGameTimeMinutes = gvGameTimeMinutes -1
put gvGameTimeMinutes into field "minutes"
end if
end
Any help would be much appreciated. If you need more
information do not hesitate to contact.
Many Thanks,
Midnight

I would suggest going to
http://www.mediamacros.com
and look for timers in
the behavior database.

How To keep CNiKnob from going directly from the Min axis value to the Max axis value?

When a user drags the pointer on a CNiKnob with the mouse, he/she is able to drag the pointer directly from the minimum axis value to the maximum axis value.
This is obviously unacceptable. So is there a way to disable this behavior or a work around?

Unfortunately, there is not an easy way to do this with CNiKnob. One way you could work around it would be to handle the CNiKnob's OnPointValueChanged event and keep track of the previous value, then detect if the value jumps from the min to the max or vice versa and if it does, set it back.
If you migrate to .NET in the future, the Measurement Studio Windows Forms .NET Knob control lets you easily configure this and is the default behavior when you add a Knob to your form. For more info, see the documentation for the Knob.InteractionMode property.
- Elton

Ipad mini jumps from program to another all by it self very intermittent

ipad mini jumps from one program or app all by its self. does not matter if playing games on on wireless it is very intermittent any clue on what it is doing

Try this:
Make sure IOS is updated to latest version
Reboot device by pressing both the home button and sleep/wake (power) buttons at the same time for 10-15 seconds until the apple logo appears on the screen, then let go.
If that doesn't work then reset the device by going to settings/general/reset/reset all settings

I can access my time capsule from my mac mini at work but my macbook can only access it from my home network. how do i fix this?

I have a Mac Mini and a MacBook, both were configured at home to access the time capsule. I have since moved the mini to work to use there and it has no issues looking up files on the time capsule which remains at home. The macbook whoever can only access the time capsule from within the home network. I can't seem to find what I may have done differently. Can anybody help?
Not sure if your allowed to post two questions, but it's may be related. I find that accessing the files on the time capsule from the mac mini or the macbook is very slow. Accessing the same files from an older HP laptop is as fast as accessing its own hard drive. How can I speed up the accessing of these files from my apple products. One would think they would work fast and the 'windows' computers would take minutes to map the drive each time...
Thanks for any help.

I have since moved the mini to work to use there and it has no issues looking up files on the time capsule which remains at home.
This cannot happen by magic though.. you must have configured the mini to access the TC remotely.. which method are you using, BTMM and iCloud??
The macbook whoever can only access the time capsule from within the home network. I can't seem to find what I may have done differently. Can anybody help?
How is the Macbook configured to access the TC remotely?? If you are trying to use BTMM and iCloud, then it might be a case that with the mini running the connection cannot be done by more than one computer at a time.. this is generally the case although I do not know if that is specifically true of BTMM method. Try turning off the mini and leave it off.. (off not standby)... then reboot the TC when you are at home.. and then try and connect the laptop to the TC the next morning from work. See if it is then able to capture the connection.. if so start up the mini and I suspect it now will not be able to connect.. that will prove that the TC cannot cope with two remote connections.
There also could be another factor in here. If you are accessing the laptop via the same router as the mini is on.. then actually you cannot have two users mount the same files on a TC.. from the same IP address.. as far as the TC is concerned both devices have identical IP, that is the public IP of the work location router.
If you happen to not be using BTMM then the situation is even easier.. you cannot make two different devices connect to the same network resource using the same port. That is the failing of the NAT system.. one device uses the port then it cannot be used by a second device. You will need to do some fancy footwork and use a different port.
Anyhow tell us exactly how you are doing remote access.. otherwise I am just guessing.
Not sure if your allowed to post two questions, but it's may be related. I find that accessing the files on the time capsule from the mac mini or the macbook is very slow.
Are you talking about files you are hosting on the TC?? Not Time Machine backups??
Can you tell me exactly how you are accessing the TC.. please do a test..
Copy a file to the TC and from the TC using the Laptop.. Use a single very large file, eg 1GB movie file.
Give me a read and write speed.. you can use activity monitor to give me an aprox average speed as well as peak.
Do the same test from the same computer with wireless turned off running ethernet.
Then do the tests from the mini.. same ones.. copy large file to and from the TC by ethernet and by wireless.. when using ethernet make sure wireless is off.
I strongly recommend you set IPv6 to link local only for your wireless and ethernet setup in the Mac.
eg
Now do the test from the HP laptop and give me the results from that.
Is the issue wireless only.. ??
Then you might need to spend a bit of time fixing the wireless in the Macs.. you can run wireless diagnostics in Mavericks.
About Wireless Diagnostics

Can't find time code from original footage (captured from mini-DV tape)

Hi. I'm Old to mac, new to FCE, good at iMovieHD ('06). Just got FCE (4.0.1).
Imported some footage (a few random practice clips) from a mini-DV tape I shot, but I can only see the time coding for each clip, not where that clip begins and ends in terms of the entire one hour mini-DV tape.
My log is for the entire mini-DV. So this is a problem.
I suppose I could re-import the entire 60 minute mini-DV tape from the start, but shouldn't the time code be embedded into each frame?
Help much appreciated.
d the h

You can try the free filter FCE Timecode Display with its default settings to display the original timecode of each clip.
Piero

My ipad has started jumping from app to app. Games act erratically. Not all the time. Any ideas?

My ipad has started jumping from App to App. Games acting erratically. Doesn't happen ALL the time. ANY ideas?

Close all apps in the recents tray completely and reboot iPad. Go to the home screen first by tapping the home button. Double tap the home button and the task bar will appear with all of your recent/open apps displayed at the bottom. Tap and hold down on any app icon until it begins to wiggle. Tap the minus sign in the upper left corner of the app that you want to close ..close them all! Tap the home button or anywhere above the task bar.
Reboot the iPad by holding down on the sleep and home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons.

I have a new ipad mini and there is no Face time. From where do I get it ?

I have a new ipad mini and there is no Face time. From where do I get it ?

Check in Restrictions...
Settings > General > Restrictions
Understanding Restrictions > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4213
Using FaceTime
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4319
Troubleshooting FaceTime
iOS http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3367
Note: FaceTime may not be available on devices purchased or used in certain countries, including Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates.

I Pad mini jumps from program to program and sometimes freezes

I pad mini starts jumping from program to program. Can only be stopped by shutting down. Have tried re-booting and even complete reset. Starts doing same again after two or three minutes operating normally.

Hi maybe a hardware problem take to Apple Store for testing They may replace if it's over 1 year old you may have to pay part of cost. Bsydd uk

Trying to make the jump from JPEG to RAW...

Hi all, I'm trying to make the jump from JPEG to RAW, and am hoping you might be able to help with a few questions.
When I open JPEGs in Lightroom's Develop module, the settings are mostly zero by default. But when I open RAW files, some of the settings seem to have non-zero default to values.
Am I correct to think these settings are from metadata saved into the RAW file when I took the picture? eg, the camera saves the White Balance settings as metadata within the RAW file, even though the White Balance settings don't actually affect the image data itself. And so when I open that RAW file in Lightroom, it'll apply the White Balance as recorded within the file, making that a non-zero default.
Is that about right?
Does Lightroom similarly 'pre-set' other values when importing RAW files? (I ask because I seem to have non-zero settings for Blacks, Sharpening, as well as the Color slider under Noise Reduction.)
Meaning: I'm not quite sure "how much work" Lightroom is doing by default when I import RAW files, and how much I need to do to at least reproduce what my camera would do in making a JPEG.
For example, even though Color under Noise Reduction is given a value -- Luminance, also under under Noise Reduction, is left at zero. And the picture looks a bit grainy. Would my camera have processed some Luminance Noise Reduction? If so, is there a way to get Lightroom to help get that pre-set too?
Basically, is there a rule of thumb for how a novice should import a RAW file and have it reasonably "at least as good" as what the JPEG would have been?
Thanks very kindly, -Scott

Given that the camera ships with so many special effect presets -- is there no built-in preset that could be named "Auto Camera" so to speak? Or might it be possible import such a preset that somebody else has made?
Lightroom, nor any other third party raw processing program will not read the camera settings beyond simple stuff such as white balance. So you cannot do this. If you go raw, you really have to change your mindset and completely ignore the in-camera jpeg styles. Just set it to a neutral style and learn what the preview on the camera means for the actual raw data. You will find that this gives you orders of magnitude more creative freedom afterwards as you will not be stuck with a burned in interpretation.
So (for me) even just making my own presets -- let alone making separate presets for every ISO -- all that seems a bit daunting.
There really is no need to at all. I don't use presets for example. I think they are a waste of time as it is extremely rare that two images need exactly the same treatment. You really are just choosing a different starting point. I start all my raw at a relatively neutral setting (but using a camera profile generated from a colorchecker!) and blast through a shoot very quickly. You'll learn how to recognize what modifications to the Develop settings images need and just do it. Then typically I use auto-sync or manual sync to modify similar shots (say a series of head shots taken shortly after each other). I work differently as most of my photography is landscape, but a typical workflow for many photographers that do more people/style/event stuff is to import all the raw and start culling them with pick/reject flags and refine collection. You'll arrive at a subset that is worth looking at more closely and to finetune their development. The conservative default rendering helps you here because you'll quickly see what images are simply badly exposed, not in correct focus, etc. and you can reject them.
Think of your raw as the unprinted negative. It represents a nascent image. One that still has to form completely. A jpeg is like a polaroid. The image style is pretty much chosen for you by the film maker. There is very little you can do to it afterwards without it breaking down. Raw gives you much more freedom but it does come with a learning curve and it is more tasking for your equipment. Many people including many pros are simply not interested (or don't see the pay off) in this part of the creative photographic process and just shoot jpeg, which is a fine approach (just not mine). Lightroom can help you there too to quickly find the best images in a series, keyword, caption, and disseminate.

Jump from 2.8 Dual Xeon Mac Pro to new 2.4GHz Macbook Pro with LED Cinema?

So about a month ago I decided to upgrade an older Macbook Pro to my dream computer... I bought the Octo 2.8GHz Xeon Mac Pro, added 1.6TB of drive space, 10GB of RAM, the Nvidia 8800 GT, and a 23" Apple Cinema Display.
I LOVE the machine. That said...
Stopped over at Apple the other day and saw the new Macbook Pro connected to the 24" LED Cinema Display. GORGEOUS. Love it. Long story short, I am considering moving back to the Macbook Pro and new ACD to go with it.
So my question is this : What kind of performance drop am I going to take if I do this? Are people really using these new MBPs as full desktop replacements? Has anyone jumped from Mac Pro to new MBP and been 100% happy?
I have found with my Mac Pro that I am NEVER stressing the machine, ever. No matter what size file I am working with, no matter what game I am playing, the thing is always fast and smooth. But while playing with the MBP (it was 2.4GHz) and new LED ACD at the Apple Store I noticed that things like Photoshop and Illustrator launched every bit as fast as on my Mac Pro - even Aperture was speedy and extremely usable! I think the dock magnification seemed a touch jerky when compared to my Mac Pro - but maybe not... can't find any real stats on it.
I normally work in Aperture and Photoshop/Illustrator, have iTunes running, iCal, Pages and Numbers, Keynote, Mail, and do just a touch of video compression every now and then (format conversion). I realize these tasks don't pose any challenges to the Mac Pro - but what about the newer MBP?
I would be ordering the MBP with 2.4GHz, upgrading the RAM to 4GB, and the HDD to a 320GB 7200RPM Seagate.
My main motivation is to be able to continue to work on the Cinema Display that I have grown to LOVE, while also becoming a bit mobile again! It IS nice to sit on the couch sometimes and web browse. It wouldn't be worth it to me to gain mobility and lose all the power though, so...
How about it? Given what I do, is the 2.4GHz MBP a suitable replacement for the Mac Pro that I have?

Thanks for reading through the small book I wrote there and adding some info to it - greatly appreciated.
I have found on the Mac Pro I am simply astounded by the way games look at 1920x1200 on 'Very High' settings! But... I also have pretty much stopped playing them. Working on the Mac Pro all day, it would be very nice to sit back on the couch if I want to play a game. Granted the PS3 I have just can't compete with the Mac Pro in quality, but it's decent enough for the small bit of games I play and the Blu Ray drive is nice too for movies. So, I'd say I'm ok losing the gaming part of the Mac Pro as the PS3 is sufficient enough and more convenient so I can actually sit back and relax.
I think you're absolutely correct on the rendering. When I work with video, I usually am converting 2-8 minute Quicktime Movies in to Flash Video format using QT Pro. The Mac Pro SCREAMS through this in 1-2 minutes, my older Macbook Pro was about 5-7 mins for the same file.
Looking back, my MBP wasn't as old as I thought (I had an iMac in between there I don't care to remember) : it was a 2.4GHz Penryn with 200GB 5400 HDD, and 2GB RAM with 256MB VRAM. So basically, the new MBP and the "old" MBP I had are very close to each other... biggest differences are the new 1066mhz front side bus and Nvidia GPU - other than that, these are identical machines!
I was never very happy working on the MBP full time - but I now know that was due to the screen size. Working on the Cinema is great and selling my current Mac Pro and Cinema and getting the new MBP and Cinema will allow me to work and be mobile, as well as put $1000 back in my pocket.
Might be nuts, but man I'd love to see some comparisons between the Mac Pro and MBP from Bare Feats or Ars. I'm definitely in the minority here - no one using Quickbooks and Photoshop as much as I do "needs" an octocore Mac Pro. But, I've got one and love it. It seems for what I'm doing the decrease in performance might be negligible, if not undetectable entirely (aside from gaming and enconding).

Can i jump from 10.7.5 to 10.8.5

Any harm in jumping from 10.7.5 to 10.8.5? I never updated to mountain lion but need to to use a new software but I don't want to go beyond what CS4 can support.

Yes, you can.
Upgrading to Mountain Lion
To upgrade to Mountain Lion you must have Snow Leopard 10.6.8 or Lion installed. Purchase a redemption code at the Online Apple Store: OS X Mountain Lion. Mountain Lion is $19.99 plus tax. Use the code to redeem a download of Mountain Lion from the App Store. The file is quite large, over 4 GBs, so allow some time to download. It would be preferable to use Ethernet because it is nearly four times faster than wireless.
     OS X Mountain Lion - System Requirements
       Macs that can be upgraded to OS X Mountain Lion
         1. iMac (Mid 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 7,1 or later.
         2. MacBook (Late 2008 Aluminum, or Early 2009 or newer) - Model
             Identifier 5,1 or later.
         3. MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
         4. MacBook Air (Late 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 2,1 or later.
         5. Mac mini (Early 2009 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
         6. Mac Pro (Early 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
         7. Xserve (Early 2009) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
To find the model identifier open System Profiler in the Utilities folder. It's displayed in the panel on the right.
     Are my applications compatible?
         See App Compatibility Table - RoaringApps.

How do I transfer logic 9 to my new Mac Mini?

I purchased a new 2011 Mac Mini and I need to Install Logic studio from a Mac Book Pro that has the logic app on it, or from the Logic Install Disc's. The Mini does not have a CD/DVD Drive, so what would be the best way to go about getting logic on my new Mini ?

The Mini does not have a CD/DVD Drive, so what would be the best way to go about getting logic on my new Mini ?
Purchase an Apple DVD SuperDrive. Time and time again you will find that you need it. Many recommend that you create a DVD master install disk.
This is an area where I would not try to save money.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC684ZM/A

Logic and Time Machine Backups

Does anybody use Time Machine and have experience on how it affects (or not) Logic?

Time Machine, yes in conjunction with Time Capsule. Providing wireless back ups & internet access. Or that is the theory behind it. My TC took TWO WEEKS to get working right & even now i have connection problems & back ups taking hours. I recently upgraded to Logic Pro 8/Studio from 7.2.3.
That shot TM & TC down. it just wouldn't back up the 42ish Gigs that installing Logic took up. So I had to unhook my TC from downstairs & plug in via ethernet to get the back up done.
Using Logic becomes near impossible when the hourly back ups come round (which incidentally, turn into every 20 mins because they take so long to complete) I get the spinning beach ball on just about everything you try to do in Logic. SO FRUSTRATING!!
Now, you could turn off the back ups, this then would allow you to get something done in Logic, but then the back up of 3 to 4 hours of work in Logic could take TM & TC an eon to complete.
I would say if you are going to do it in conjunction with TC, connect via ethernet, not wirelessly, that is just a big can of worms I can tell you.

I want to Connect my Mac Mini as a Slave to a Mac pro Server while at the same time using the Mac mini's thunderbolt ports peripherals ( ie monitor, Sound Card, Hard drives) Creating a poor man's new mac Pro. Can this be Done?

I want to Connect my Mac Mini as a Slave to a Mac pro Server while at the same time using the Mac mini's thunderbolt ports peripherals ( ie monitor, Sound Card, Hard drives) Creating a poor man's new mac Pro. Can this be Done?

Well, I really would love the new unreleased mac pro however , I'm not sure of the expected cost , Everyone speculates from $3,000 to $8,000, in which I may have to wait a while to purchase.
To the point .... I want fully functional thunderbolt ports to be on the current mac pro's .... wonder if anyone had workarounds yet?... or could I chain the the current mac pro to a mac mini to make that happen?

Logic 8: Time jumping from 59 mins to 2hrs

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