MacBook Air running Bootcamp getting ACPI errors in Windows
We have a number of MacBook Air 13" mid-2014 A1466 models running Bootcamp with Windows 7 64 bit Enterprise.
(We image them with Windows & Bootcamp, no Mac OS X partition)
We are using latest Bootcamp 5.1.5640 drivers
They work fine for most applications.
We are regularly getting ACPI errors
The error in Windows System log is
Source: ACPI
Description: The embedded controller (EC) did not respond within the specified timeoutperiod. This may indicate there is an error in the EC hardware or firmware that the BIOS is accessing the EC incorrectly. You should check with your computer manufacturer for an upgraded BIOS. In some situations, this error may cause the computer to function incorrectly.
The error we are seeing is when a user is logged into a Windows domain it should pass the Windows password to other applications like Outlook, Lync, etc. Instead, on these Macs, they regularly prompt for the Windows password to re-connect to the source. We don't get this issue with normal Windows PCs.
Also booting has a slight delay of around 10 seconds before Windows begins loading. Don't this delay with older MacBook Airs.
Have looked at repairing Bootcamp drivers. EFI & SMC looks up to date, had to use Mac boot USB to check this info.
VikingBrad wrote:
Just re-reading my post and I was unclear. Yes we do use EFI and boot directly into Windows.
This is good to know.
The Windows partition is joined to an AD domain and logs in fine with AD credentials.
The only problem being that when we open Outlook or Lync or other apps that require AD authentication the user is prompted for their AD credentials.
We have cleared Credential Manager in Windows, tried different users with no success. It works with older MacBooks and Windows PC. Seems to just be these latest MacBook Air 2014 models with the issue. After user re-enters AD credentials they can connect to Outlook, etc.
This may be a bit off-topic, but Macs do not "officially" support Enterprise versions of Windows. Can I suggest using a test 2014 MBA, installing W7/W8 64-bit, and configuring for AD authentication and testing. Are there any known DNS issues on this Macs? In all the applications which do not function correctly, does the username show up correctly populated, when prompted for login?
The only error we see in Event log is the ACPI error so suspect it is related. But we have latest Bootcamp drivers from Apple perhaps we are off track.
If the user successfully enters credentials when prompted for say, Outlook, and the computer is made to sleep or hibernate, is the connection to Outlook/Lync still up if the timeout for sessions (if any) has not yet expired and the computer is woken up?
It may also be worthwhile to look for requests being made for authentication before the applications prompt the user for credentials.
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Could be many things, we should start with this to be safe, though 2 different ones would seem unlikely to be this problem...
"Try Disk Utility
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu at the top of the screen. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.
3. Click the First Aid tab.
4. Select your Mac OS X volume.
5. Click Repair. Disk Utility checks and repairs the disk."
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Then try a Safe Boot, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, reboot when it completes.
(Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive.)
If perchance you can't find your install Disc, at least try it from the Safe Boot part onward. -
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Heat, and heat cycling certainly do take a toll on even solid state components. I have several "very old" Macintosh computers, and the logic boards exhibit the effects.
The fan too, running at higher speeds, does eventually cause wear. More than anything, the higher airflow leads to a higher propensity for dust accumulation on the fan, and the heat exchangers.
In practical terms though, maybe not so much. If you plan on having your computer exhibit a reasonable useful life before you retire it or upgrade, you may never experience any of the detrimental effects. I rarely use a computer longer than 3 years, before I sell, give it away, or just stop using it.
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Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
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c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
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Step 8
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Step 9
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Step 11
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And you may have to backup your contents outside the computer to do it. Disk Utility on the Mac OS X historically has not been able to touch a BootCamp created partition; so if BootCamp cannot remove it, then you have to see how to do the equivalent of a reformat of the entire drive (less Recovery partition?) then reinstall your OS X. Maybe from internet recovery, then get your applications, etc from the Mac App store, etc.
A complete system clone of your OS X on an external HDD would be another method to restore after reformat, of the portion you want whole again, not necessarily the space where Recovery may live.
There may be (an)other way(s).
Perhaps someone with recent experience
in this matter can reply & discuss options.
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Hopefully yours will after you talk to it awhile.
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If you are running OS X Snow Leopard you may purchase OS X Lion for $19.99 by calling 1-800-MY-APPLE. You will receive an email containing a content code to download OS X Lion via the Mac App Store.
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Hi
What Macbook Air model and operating system are you running.
Cheers -
My MacBook Air can't get past the gray screen with the apple logo. What's the fix?
My MacBook Air can't get past the gray screen with the Apple logo, so I can't login. Does anyone know the fix for this?
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into Recovery by holding down the key combination command-R at the startup chime, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) Release the keys when you see a gray screen with a spinning dial. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in the support article linked below, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
How to back up and restore your files
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode by holding down the key combination command-T at the startup chime. Connect the two Macs with a FireWire or Thunderbolt cable. The internal drive of the machine running in target mode will mount as an external drive on the other machine. Copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
How to use and troubleshoot FireWire target disk mode
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Before reconnecting an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 3
Boot in safe mode.* The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
Shut down your computer, wait 30 seconds, and then hold down the shift key while pressing the power button.
When you see the gray Apple logo, release the shift key.
If you are prompted to log in, type your password, and then hold down the shift key again as you click Log in.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
*Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t boot in safe mode. Post for further instructions.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is damaged and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to step 5.
If you can boot and log in now, reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.) If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 4
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 5
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see above for instructions.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it produces. Look for the line "Permissions repaired successfully" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 6
Boot into Recovery again. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, follow the prompts to reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Note: You need an always-on Ethernet or Wi-Fi connection to the Internet to use Recovery. It won’t work with USB or PPPoE modems, or with proxy servers, or with networks that require a certificate for authentication.
Step 7
Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a backup.
Step 8
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.
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